Re: Sea Hawk
> I have the plan for the Sea Hawk from the new Payson book.Sea Hawk is an elegant boat. Best of luck. I join the chorus
> It is built on a ladder jig.
> The side panels have been drawn out by Dennis Hansen.
> So, I have the side and bottom panel dimensions.
> Is there any need to build this boat upside down on a jig?
> Could it now be built "instant" style?
encouraging you to keep the ladder jig.
If you really wanted to go S&G, the thing to do is build Diablo instead.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Stephenson"
<howardstephenson@...> wrote:
being shorter due to the rocker and the inaccuracy of the station
placement, due to the side panel curviture. It appears that it will
be faster and straighter if I go with a jig. I was trying to save on
materials. I will be able to reuse the jig parts down the line.
Thanks again,
Sloppy
<howardstephenson@...> wrote:
>baseline
> The plans in Small Boats/Bolger Boats give offsets from the
> and centreline for the shape of the bottom. I suppose they areshown
> in the Payson book too. A small amount of lofting would givesheet
> the "true" shape of the sheet of bottom ply and, with the true
> shape for the sides already known, a standard s&g hull could beget
> built. (Although it might be no easier than building it over a
> simple jig).
>
> On the lofting floor (garage floor or whatever), mark the station
> spacings along a baseline. Then mark on the floor the vertical
> distance the bottom is above the baseline at each station (at right-
> angles to the baseline). Run a batten around the curve. On the
> batten, mark the points where the projections from the baseline
> reach the batten.
>
> Lay the batten along the centreline of the scarfed or butted sheet
> of ply that will be the bottom of the boat, and transfer the marks
> along the batten to this centreline.
>
> Use the offsets shown on the plan to fix the width of the bottom at
> each of these marked points. Run a batten around these points to
> the side-curvature of the bottom sheet.stitched
>
> Once all the sheets (including the transom) are cut out and
> together, with the aft part of the bottom sitting on the buildingusing
> floor, put in spreaders at several points along the sheerline,
> the offsets shown in the plan to determine their width, andvertical
> projections (use a plumb-bob) from the markings on the bottom plyto
> determine their fore-and-aft position. Once everything is set upThanks for your replies. I had not thought about the bottom panel
> true, epoxy-glass the seams on the inside. The rest would be normal
> s&g procedure.
>
> Howard
>
being shorter due to the rocker and the inaccuracy of the station
placement, due to the side panel curviture. It appears that it will
be faster and straighter if I go with a jig. I was trying to save on
materials. I will be able to reuse the jig parts down the line.
Thanks again,
Sloppy
The plans in Small Boats/Bolger Boats give offsets from the baseline
and centreline for the shape of the bottom. I suppose they are shown
in the Payson book too. A small amount of lofting would give
the "true" shape of the sheet of bottom ply and, with the true sheet
shape for the sides already known, a standard s&g hull could be
built. (Although it might be no easier than building it over a
simple jig).
On the lofting floor (garage floor or whatever), mark the station
spacings along a baseline. Then mark on the floor the vertical
distance the bottom is above the baseline at each station (at right-
angles to the baseline). Run a batten around the curve. On the
batten, mark the points where the projections from the baseline
reach the batten.
Lay the batten along the centreline of the scarfed or butted sheet
of ply that will be the bottom of the boat, and transfer the marks
along the batten to this centreline.
Use the offsets shown on the plan to fix the width of the bottom at
each of these marked points. Run a batten around these points to get
the side-curvature of the bottom sheet.
Once all the sheets (including the transom) are cut out and stitched
together, with the aft part of the bottom sitting on the building
floor, put in spreaders at several points along the sheerline, using
the offsets shown in the plan to determine their width, and vertical
projections (use a plumb-bob) from the markings on the bottom ply to
determine their fore-and-aft position. Once everything is set up
true, epoxy-glass the seams on the inside. The rest would be normal
s&g procedure.
Howard
and centreline for the shape of the bottom. I suppose they are shown
in the Payson book too. A small amount of lofting would give
the "true" shape of the sheet of bottom ply and, with the true sheet
shape for the sides already known, a standard s&g hull could be
built. (Although it might be no easier than building it over a
simple jig).
On the lofting floor (garage floor or whatever), mark the station
spacings along a baseline. Then mark on the floor the vertical
distance the bottom is above the baseline at each station (at right-
angles to the baseline). Run a batten around the curve. On the
batten, mark the points where the projections from the baseline
reach the batten.
Lay the batten along the centreline of the scarfed or butted sheet
of ply that will be the bottom of the boat, and transfer the marks
along the batten to this centreline.
Use the offsets shown on the plan to fix the width of the bottom at
each of these marked points. Run a batten around these points to get
the side-curvature of the bottom sheet.
Once all the sheets (including the transom) are cut out and stitched
together, with the aft part of the bottom sitting on the building
floor, put in spreaders at several points along the sheerline, using
the offsets shown in the plan to determine their width, and vertical
projections (use a plumb-bob) from the markings on the bottom ply to
determine their fore-and-aft position. Once everything is set up
true, epoxy-glass the seams on the inside. The rest would be normal
s&g procedure.
Howard
A jig takes only a few hours to set up and guarantees the trueness of
the boat, well worth the time.
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
the boat, well worth the time.
HJ
Bruce Hallman wrote:
> On Jan 21, 2008 12:10 PM, sloppytypist <kadonohue@...> wrote:
>
>> I have the plan for the Sea Hawk from the new Payson book.
>> It is built on a ladder jig.
>> The side panels have been drawn out by Dennis Hansen.
>> So, I have the side and bottom panel dimensions.
>> Is there any need to build this boat upside down on a jig?
>> Could it now be built "instant" style?
>> Thanks,
>> Sloppy
>>
>
> I would use the jig. Probably faster, and certainly an easier way to
> get the panels aligned. Though, don't waste a lot of time building a
> Taj Mahal jig. Your mileage may vary.
>
>
>
Bruce, Sloppy,
bottom. Because of the rocker in the bottom of the boat, the offsets
given in the plan don't define the exact shape, although it's pretty
close given the small amount of rocker. If you lay out a bottom panel
from the offsets without accounting for the curvature of the bottom,
you'll have a bottom panel that's a bit too short. On a flat-bottomed
boat, it's easy to get the true panel shape from the assembled sides
and bulkheads anyway.
More importantly, Payson doesn't show the location of the four
bulkheads on the side panel layout, which is disappointing since he
could easily have done this when he made the pattern. It's pretty
simple to get the location of the aftmost one, since the sides are
straight and parallel back there. With a little trigonometry, one
could calculate accurately enough where to place the others. Once
that was done, the boat could be assembled "instant" style and the
assembly used to get the true shape of the bottom panel. I've been
tempted to do this myself, but would probably build a model first to
make sure I had the bulkhead locations correct.
Given all of the above, it might be quicker to build the jig as Bruce
suggests.
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
> > I have the plan for the Sea Hawk from the new Payson book.Note that you don't actually have the true panel dimensions of the
> > It is built on a ladder jig.
> > The side panels have been drawn out by Dennis Hansen.
> > So, I have the side and bottom panel dimensions.
> > Is there any need to build this boat upside down on a jig?
> > Could it now be built "instant" style?
> > Thanks,
> > Sloppy
>
> I would use the jig. Probably faster, and certainly an easier way to
> get the panels aligned. Though, don't waste a lot of time building a
> Taj Mahal jig. Your mileage may vary.
bottom. Because of the rocker in the bottom of the boat, the offsets
given in the plan don't define the exact shape, although it's pretty
close given the small amount of rocker. If you lay out a bottom panel
from the offsets without accounting for the curvature of the bottom,
you'll have a bottom panel that's a bit too short. On a flat-bottomed
boat, it's easy to get the true panel shape from the assembled sides
and bulkheads anyway.
More importantly, Payson doesn't show the location of the four
bulkheads on the side panel layout, which is disappointing since he
could easily have done this when he made the pattern. It's pretty
simple to get the location of the aftmost one, since the sides are
straight and parallel back there. With a little trigonometry, one
could calculate accurately enough where to place the others. Once
that was done, the boat could be assembled "instant" style and the
assembly used to get the true shape of the bottom panel. I've been
tempted to do this myself, but would probably build a model first to
make sure I had the bulkhead locations correct.
Given all of the above, it might be quicker to build the jig as Bruce
suggests.
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
On Jan 21, 2008 12:10 PM, sloppytypist <kadonohue@...> wrote:
get the panels aligned. Though, don't waste a lot of time building a
Taj Mahal jig. Your mileage may vary.
>I would use the jig. Probably faster, and certainly an easier way to
>
> I have the plan for the Sea Hawk from the new Payson book.
> It is built on a ladder jig.
> The side panels have been drawn out by Dennis Hansen.
> So, I have the side and bottom panel dimensions.
> Is there any need to build this boat upside down on a jig?
> Could it now be built "instant" style?
> Thanks,
> Sloppy
get the panels aligned. Though, don't waste a lot of time building a
Taj Mahal jig. Your mileage may vary.
I have the plan for the Sea Hawk from the new Payson book.
It is built on a ladder jig.
The side panels have been drawn out by Dennis Hansen.
So, I have the side and bottom panel dimensions.
Is there any need to build this boat upside down on a jig?
Could it now be built "instant" style?
Thanks,
Sloppy
It is built on a ladder jig.
The side panels have been drawn out by Dennis Hansen.
So, I have the side and bottom panel dimensions.
Is there any need to build this boat upside down on a jig?
Could it now be built "instant" style?
Thanks,
Sloppy