Re: [bolger] Payson opinion -Which would row better, Bolger Sweet Pea Pod or Michalak-s Woobo ?
Which would row better, Bolger Sweet Pea Pod or Michalak-s Woobo ?
I had a brief phone conversation this evening with Harold "Dynamite"
Payson."
As I caught him during his dinner with his lovely wife Amy I kept the
conversation very brief.
Basically I asked him which Bolger design, Junebug or Sweet Pea Pod, he
would have a preference for with my intended usage in mind.
My intended usage would be rowing in a chop with a 60 to 80lb. dog and a
16 lb. dog and an infrequent human passenger.
As my dogs each wear a harness and love to jump out out of my boats
and go for long swims, I also asked as to my being able to grab them by
the tops of their harnesses and haul them back aboard. I knew that
Junebug would be rock-steady but I inquired about Sweet Pea Pod's
potential of taking on water over the side during re-boarding of my
larger dog.
Dynamite said that the edge of the boat would draw down toward the
water's surface but there would not be a danger of going over and all
should go smoothly.
He said that with the Pea Pod's long keel it would row very straight and
the tone in his voice implied to me that he is pleased to row the Pea
with keel attached.
Concerning the sail he reminded me that it would take both the sprit and
leg o mutton sails. I plan on making my own sail but he has a sail maker
that will make sails for him per customer request.
After I ended our brief conversation and said goodbye I thought of other
questions that I might have wanted to ask but I glad for him to return
to his dinner and Amy's company.
My reservations are settled. I will be sending Dynamite $40. For the
Bolger Sweet Pea Pod full size plans.
As I have the construction instructions in his "Instant Boatbuilding
with Dynamite Payson" book I will begin at my leisure. I will have to
work in fits and starts and as my mood permits. If it takes longer than
this summer to finish that is ok as well. I wish to enjoy the
construction journey. As long as I can find water that is not frozen I
will look forward to getting it wet.
Mark
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>Greetings to all who are interested in this thread.
>> Phil Bolger's Sweet Pea Pod -->
>>http://picasaweb.google.com/lonach34/SweetPeaGallery
>>
>> Jim Michalak's Woobo -->
>>http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jim/woobo/index.htm
>>
>> Mark Mirski
>>
>> PS I am asking this same question to the Bolger Boat and Dory boat groups.
>>
>>
I had a brief phone conversation this evening with Harold "Dynamite"
Payson."
As I caught him during his dinner with his lovely wife Amy I kept the
conversation very brief.
Basically I asked him which Bolger design, Junebug or Sweet Pea Pod, he
would have a preference for with my intended usage in mind.
My intended usage would be rowing in a chop with a 60 to 80lb. dog and a
16 lb. dog and an infrequent human passenger.
As my dogs each wear a harness and love to jump out out of my boats
and go for long swims, I also asked as to my being able to grab them by
the tops of their harnesses and haul them back aboard. I knew that
Junebug would be rock-steady but I inquired about Sweet Pea Pod's
potential of taking on water over the side during re-boarding of my
larger dog.
Dynamite said that the edge of the boat would draw down toward the
water's surface but there would not be a danger of going over and all
should go smoothly.
He said that with the Pea Pod's long keel it would row very straight and
the tone in his voice implied to me that he is pleased to row the Pea
with keel attached.
Concerning the sail he reminded me that it would take both the sprit and
leg o mutton sails. I plan on making my own sail but he has a sail maker
that will make sails for him per customer request.
After I ended our brief conversation and said goodbye I thought of other
questions that I might have wanted to ask but I glad for him to return
to his dinner and Amy's company.
My reservations are settled. I will be sending Dynamite $40. For the
Bolger Sweet Pea Pod full size plans.
As I have the construction instructions in his "Instant Boatbuilding
with Dynamite Payson" book I will begin at my leisure. I will have to
work in fits and starts and as my mood permits. If it takes longer than
this summer to finish that is ok as well. I wish to enjoy the
construction journey. As long as I can find water that is not frozen I
will look forward to getting it wet.
Mark
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Very pretty little boat. I probably should get started if I'm going to use this boat by spring.
Rick
----- Original Message ----
From: Bob Larkin <boblark@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 5:42:01 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Oughtred
Back to the original subject, I built an Acorn-8 and love the boat.
The Oughtred plans and the Tom Hill book provided everything I
needed. As others have commented, it is a big project for the length
of the boat! If you are not in hurry, it is a fine project. Those
strakes in the bow have more and more twist as the boat gets smaller
(but it does work). Also, you need a good security system if you are
going to leave that boat unattended!
There is a picture of my Acorn being sailed at
http://www.proaxiscom/~boblark/ boats.htm It is fun!
Bob
Rick
----- Original Message ----
From: Bob Larkin <boblark@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 5:42:01 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Oughtred
Back to the original subject, I built an Acorn-8 and love the boat.
The Oughtred plans and the Tom Hill book provided everything I
needed. As others have commented, it is a big project for the length
of the boat! If you are not in hurry, it is a fine project. Those
strakes in the bow have more and more twist as the boat gets smaller
(but it does work). Also, you need a good security system if you are
going to leave that boat unattended!
There is a picture of my Acorn being sailed at
http://www.proaxiscom/~boblark/ boats.htm It is fun!
Bob
--- In bolger@yahoogroups. com, rick barnes <barnesrickw@ ...> wrote:
>
> I'm not really short on time, but I've grown tired of trying to
make taped seams look nice. I know it can be, and is done, but the
skill escapes me. I think the boat I have plans for is the Acorn
Tender 7'10". I need a small boat to get out to my mooring, and I
got a good deal on a membership to the yacht club, so I thought I
would go for that "more elegant" look you speak of.
>
> Rick
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Back to the original subject, I built an Acorn-8 and love the boat.
The Oughtred plans and the Tom Hill book provided everything I
needed. As others have commented, it is a big project for the length
of the boat! If you are not in hurry, it is a fine project. Those
strakes in the bow have more and more twist as the boat gets smaller
(but it does work). Also, you need a good security system if you are
going to leave that boat unattended!
There is a picture of my Acorn being sailed at
http://www.proaxis.com/~boblark/boats.htmIt is fun!
Bob
The Oughtred plans and the Tom Hill book provided everything I
needed. As others have commented, it is a big project for the length
of the boat! If you are not in hurry, it is a fine project. Those
strakes in the bow have more and more twist as the boat gets smaller
(but it does work). Also, you need a good security system if you are
going to leave that boat unattended!
There is a picture of my Acorn being sailed at
http://www.proaxis.com/~boblark/boats.htmIt is fun!
Bob
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, rick barnes <barnesrickw@...> wrote:
>
> I'm not really short on time, but I've grown tired of trying to
make taped seams look nice. I know it can be, and is done, but the
skill escapes me. I think the boat I have plans for is the Acorn
Tender 7'10". I need a small boat to get out to my mooring, and I
got a good deal on a membership to the yacht club, so I thought I
would go for that "more elegant" look you speak of.
>
> Rick
>
Darn, I just paid $1 out of the remnants section
On 23/02/2008, Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...> wrote:
>
> I got my cheap polyester cloth for 50 cents a yard and it works fine.
> It peels off just like it should. Maybe the epoxy sticks to it better
> than the "real" peel ply, but it still peels off in full sheets. Maybe
> it takes more muscle power to peel it off, but the exercise is good for
> me.
>
> You rich folks can pay $6 or $9 a yard for the "real" peel ply if you
> want to, but I'll stick with my cheap generic polyester cloth.
> Sometimes it pays to consider substitute materials, especially when
> they work fine.
>
> Sincerely,
> Ken Grome
> Bagacay Boatworks
> www.bagacayboatworks.com
>
> > Real peel ply is treated so the epoxy doesn't stick very well, the
> > problem with using conventional aircraft dacron is the reason epoxy
> > doesn't stick very well is it's a very tight weave and since it's
> > uncertified (certified cloth is fairly expensive) the weave varies
> > and the more open weave dacron sticks very well with epoxy. So,
> > unless you want to take the chance of sanding off the fabric, you
> > might be alot better off with real peel ply.
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Mark Mirski wrote:
query for which I am very grateful to all.
---------------------------------------------------------
It all depends on what exactly you mean by "better". Is speed in
smooth water the primary consideration, or a comfortable motion in a
chop?
_Mark's Ans:_ --> A comfortable motion in a chop.
Will you be alone, or taking passengers, or camp cruising gear?
_Mark's Ans:_ --> Mostly 2 dogs and possibly one person some times.
They are two very different boats despite the fact that both have flat
bottoms and angled bilge strakes.
Looking at the two (and I wish I had larger drawings at exactly the
same scale), Michalak's Woobo is lighter, looks to be slightly
shallower and broader at the waterline, and with a longer waterline (by
virtue of the plumb stem and transom).
Bolger's Sweet Pea is heavier (especially if built to the plans with
the deck and all), has much more reserve
buoyancy, will carry a heavier payload, and be more ultimately able in
less than ideal conditions.
_Mark's Ans:_ --> I want to be able in less than ideal conditions as I have had hypothermia in a New Hampshire October sailing capsize in the past.
Given two oarsmen of equal ability, with boat boats lightly loaded, I
would expect the Woobo to have a very slight edge in speed and ease
because of the longer waterline and lighter weight. Note that both
oarsmen would have to be working hard for there to be much apparent
difference, because the waterline length advantage is conferred due to
wave making potential, and therefore only comes into play when you row
hard enough to make the wave.
I would venture to guess that with a rower taking a laid back, relaxed
row, there wouldn't be that much apparent difference between the two.
Build the one that speaks to your heart.
Bobdredbob@...
-------------------------------------------------------------------
At a quick glance, Woobo looks similar to Junebug. Perhaps there is
some comparative commentary concerning Sweet Pea and Junebug?
Chriswetherillc@...
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Unanswerable really. Sweet Pea looks to have 12" more LOA and about 6
inches longer of waterline length, which in principle might make her a
tiny bit faster, not that faster means better. Also, Woobo seems to
have a wider midships bottom in the water, which some people like
because of a feeling of 'initial stability' in a rowboat, again not
necessary better. Personally, I really like the looks of double ended
boats, and therefore prefer Sweet Pea.
_Mark's Ans:_ -->
I like Junebug, Woobo and Sweet Pea Pod.
I also love the iconoclast square boats but I am being seduced by Sweet Pea Pod.
I think all things being close to equal I would lean toward rough water safety as I will sometimes be on a very large Mountain lake and on New England coastal waters.
Bruce Hallmanbruce@...
-----------------------------------------------------
Thank you to all who have responded so far. Any future input is appreciated .
Respectfully, Mark Mirskianshin@...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Which would row better, Bolger Sweet Pea Pod or Michalak-s Woobo ?For those who might be interested I am posting below the responses to my
>
> Phil Bolger's Sweet Pea Pod -->
>http://picasaweb.google.com/lonach34/SweetPeaGallery
>
> Jim Michalak's Woobo -->
>http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jim/woobo/index.htm
>
> Mark Mirski
>
> PS I am asking this same question to the dory Boat group
>
>
query for which I am very grateful to all.
---------------------------------------------------------
It all depends on what exactly you mean by "better". Is speed in
smooth water the primary consideration, or a comfortable motion in a
chop?
_Mark's Ans:_ --> A comfortable motion in a chop.
Will you be alone, or taking passengers, or camp cruising gear?
_Mark's Ans:_ --> Mostly 2 dogs and possibly one person some times.
They are two very different boats despite the fact that both have flat
bottoms and angled bilge strakes.
Looking at the two (and I wish I had larger drawings at exactly the
same scale), Michalak's Woobo is lighter, looks to be slightly
shallower and broader at the waterline, and with a longer waterline (by
virtue of the plumb stem and transom).
Bolger's Sweet Pea is heavier (especially if built to the plans with
the deck and all), has much more reserve
buoyancy, will carry a heavier payload, and be more ultimately able in
less than ideal conditions.
_Mark's Ans:_ --> I want to be able in less than ideal conditions as I have had hypothermia in a New Hampshire October sailing capsize in the past.
Given two oarsmen of equal ability, with boat boats lightly loaded, I
would expect the Woobo to have a very slight edge in speed and ease
because of the longer waterline and lighter weight. Note that both
oarsmen would have to be working hard for there to be much apparent
difference, because the waterline length advantage is conferred due to
wave making potential, and therefore only comes into play when you row
hard enough to make the wave.
I would venture to guess that with a rower taking a laid back, relaxed
row, there wouldn't be that much apparent difference between the two.
Build the one that speaks to your heart.
Bobdredbob@...
-------------------------------------------------------------------
At a quick glance, Woobo looks similar to Junebug. Perhaps there is
some comparative commentary concerning Sweet Pea and Junebug?
Chriswetherillc@...
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Unanswerable really. Sweet Pea looks to have 12" more LOA and about 6
inches longer of waterline length, which in principle might make her a
tiny bit faster, not that faster means better. Also, Woobo seems to
have a wider midships bottom in the water, which some people like
because of a feeling of 'initial stability' in a rowboat, again not
necessary better. Personally, I really like the looks of double ended
boats, and therefore prefer Sweet Pea.
_Mark's Ans:_ -->
I like Junebug, Woobo and Sweet Pea Pod.
I also love the iconoclast square boats but I am being seduced by Sweet Pea Pod.
I think all things being close to equal I would lean toward rough water safety as I will sometimes be on a very large Mountain lake and on New England coastal waters.
Bruce Hallmanbruce@...
-----------------------------------------------------
Thank you to all who have responded so far. Any future input is appreciated .
Respectfully, Mark Mirskianshin@...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On Mon, Feb 25, 2008 at 2:57 PM, Mark Mirski <anshin@...> wrote:
inches longer of waterline length, which in principle might make her a
tiny bit faster, not that faster means better. Also, Woobo seems to
have a wider midships bottom in the water, which some people like
because of a feeling of 'initial stability' in a rowboat, again not
necessary better. Personally, I really like the looks of double ended
boats, and therefore prefer Sweet Pea.
>Unanswerable really. Sweet Pea looks to have 12" more LOA and about 6
> Which would row better, Bolger Sweet Pea Pod or Michalak-s Woobo ?
inches longer of waterline length, which in principle might make her a
tiny bit faster, not that faster means better. Also, Woobo seems to
have a wider midships bottom in the water, which some people like
because of a feeling of 'initial stability' in a rowboat, again not
necessary better. Personally, I really like the looks of double ended
boats, and therefore prefer Sweet Pea.
Which would row better, Bolger Sweet Pea Pod or Michalak-s Woobo ?
Phil Bolger's Sweet Pea Pod -->
http://picasaweb.google.com/lonach34/SweetPeaGallery
Jim Michalak's Woobo -->
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jim/woobo/index.htm
Mark Mirski
PS I am asking this same question to the dory Boat group
Phil Bolger's Sweet Pea Pod -->
http://picasaweb.google.com/lonach34/SweetPeaGallery
Jim Michalak's Woobo -->
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jim/woobo/index.htm
Mark Mirski
PS I am asking this same question to the dory Boat group
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@...>
wrote:
are cheap brushes about 1/2" wide usually with a rolled metal tube as
a handle. They are used for applying small amounts of flux, paint,
epoxy or anything that needs to be spread over a relatively small
area.
wrote:
>so,
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@> wrote:
>
> > See also:
> >
> >http://terry_holston.tripod.com/id4.html
> >
>
> In the link at "Super hint #1": Does "CA" stand for citric acid? If
> what concentration?My guess is "CA" stands for cyanacrylate (super glue). Acid brushes
>
> Also, what are "acid brushes"? (I'm guessing the artist type...)
>
> Graeme
>
are cheap brushes about 1/2" wide usually with a rolled metal tube as
a handle. They are used for applying small amounts of flux, paint,
epoxy or anything that needs to be spread over a relatively small
area.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
what concentration?
Also, what are "acid brushes"? (I'm guessing the artist type...)
Graeme
> See also:In the link at "Super hint #1": Does "CA" stand for citric acid? If so,
>
>http://terry_holston.tripod.com/id4.html
>
what concentration?
Also, what are "acid brushes"? (I'm guessing the artist type...)
Graeme
Harry (et al.),
Stuart made the sails for my Long Micro. He does great work, he
delivered on time, and he has experience sewing traditional sails.
Before I settled on Dabbler I had been shopping around to more
mainstream lofts. None of them had ever cut a sprit boom rig. They
wanted to install battens, cut the sails funky, etc. I was very
pleased with Stuart.
Bill and his Long Micro
Stuart made the sails for my Long Micro. He does great work, he
delivered on time, and he has experience sewing traditional sails.
Before I settled on Dabbler I had been shopping around to more
mainstream lofts. None of them had ever cut a sprit boom rig. They
wanted to install battens, cut the sails funky, etc. I was very
pleased with Stuart.
Bill and his Long Micro
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "donm172001" <Don_Maurer@...> wrote:
>
> " So who's your sailmaker?"
>
> Stuart Hopkins at Dabbler Sails. www.dabblersails.com .
>
Ken:
This is too smooth for words. I had the most incredible blush problems
years ago when building my Windsprint during the most humid
winter/spring I've seen in 14 years here -- I surely do wish I'd seen
this before that!
Patrick
This is too smooth for words. I had the most incredible blush problems
years ago when building my Windsprint during the most humid
winter/spring I've seen in 14 years here -- I surely do wish I'd seen
this before that!
Patrick
> Here's an easy way to make them nice:
>
> Get some cheap, thin, tight weave 100% polyester fabric and smooth it
> over your freshly applied epoxy/glass taped seams. Use one of those
> cheap yellow plastic spreaders designed for auto body filler, or a
> squeegee, or some other smoothing tool you're comfortable with.
>
> Press and smooth the fabric onto the wet epoxy/glass tape and flatten it
> out as much as possible. You'll find that this is a relatively clean
> operation compared with trying to smooth the tape without the polyester
> fabric.
>
> Then the following day after the epoxy has cured, just peel off the
> polyester fabric and you'll have a very nice, smooth joint. You won't
> even need to clean or sand it before painting because peeling off the
> polyester fabric removes amine blush and preps the surface as good as
> sanding, if not better.
>
> :)
>
> Sincerely,
> Ken Grome
> Bagacay Boatworks
> www.bagacayboatworks.com
>
>
Seem to me if the humidity is say 10% and you create a air tight chamber, then for ever there will be10% water in the chamber. If you lower the tempiture then the 10% humidity will start to condence & form water.(due point.) then water will eventually seep into wood & cause rot.
Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...> wrote: I got my cheap polyester cloth for 50 cents a yard and it works fine.
It peels off just like it should. Maybe the epoxy sticks to it better
than the "real" peel ply, but it still peels off in full sheets. Maybe
it takes more muscle power to peel it off, but the exercise is good for
me.
You rich folks can pay $6 or $9 a yard for the "real" peel ply if you
want to, but I'll stick with my cheap generic polyester cloth.
Sometimes it pays to consider substitute materials, especially when
they work fine.
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...> wrote: I got my cheap polyester cloth for 50 cents a yard and it works fine.
It peels off just like it should. Maybe the epoxy sticks to it better
than the "real" peel ply, but it still peels off in full sheets. Maybe
it takes more muscle power to peel it off, but the exercise is good for
me.
You rich folks can pay $6 or $9 a yard for the "real" peel ply if you
want to, but I'll stick with my cheap generic polyester cloth.
Sometimes it pays to consider substitute materials, especially when
they work fine.
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
> Real peel ply is treated so the epoxy doesn't stick very well, the---------------------------------
> problem with using conventional aircraft dacron is the reason epoxy
> doesn't stick very well is it's a very tight weave and since it's
> uncertified (certified cloth is fairly expensive) the weave varies
> and the more open weave dacron sticks very well with epoxy. So,
> unless you want to take the chance of sanding off the fabric, you
> might be alot better off with real peel ply.
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ken you are right if it works may as well use it!
Krissie
Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...> wrote: I got my cheap polyester cloth for 50 cents a yard and it works fine.
It peels off just like it should. Maybe the epoxy sticks to it better
than the "real" peel ply, but it still peels off in full sheets. Maybe
it takes more muscle power to peel it off, but the exercise is good for
me.
You rich folks can pay $6 or $9 a yard for the "real" peel ply if you
want to, but I'll stick with my cheap generic polyester cloth.
Sometimes it pays to consider substitute materials, especially when
they work fine.
---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Krissie
Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...> wrote: I got my cheap polyester cloth for 50 cents a yard and it works fine.
It peels off just like it should. Maybe the epoxy sticks to it better
than the "real" peel ply, but it still peels off in full sheets. Maybe
it takes more muscle power to peel it off, but the exercise is good for
me.
You rich folks can pay $6 or $9 a yard for the "real" peel ply if you
want to, but I'll stick with my cheap generic polyester cloth.
Sometimes it pays to consider substitute materials, especially when
they work fine.
---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I got my cheap polyester cloth for 50 cents a yard and it works fine.
It peels off just like it should. Maybe the epoxy sticks to it better
than the "real" peel ply, but it still peels off in full sheets. Maybe
it takes more muscle power to peel it off, but the exercise is good for
me.
You rich folks can pay $6 or $9 a yard for the "real" peel ply if you
want to, but I'll stick with my cheap generic polyester cloth.
Sometimes it pays to consider substitute materials, especially when
they work fine.
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
It peels off just like it should. Maybe the epoxy sticks to it better
than the "real" peel ply, but it still peels off in full sheets. Maybe
it takes more muscle power to peel it off, but the exercise is good for
me.
You rich folks can pay $6 or $9 a yard for the "real" peel ply if you
want to, but I'll stick with my cheap generic polyester cloth.
Sometimes it pays to consider substitute materials, especially when
they work fine.
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
> Real peel ply is treated so the epoxy doesn't stick very well, the
> problem with using conventional aircraft dacron is the reason epoxy
> doesn't stick very well is it's a very tight weave and since it's
> uncertified (certified cloth is fairly expensive) the weave varies
> and the more open weave dacron sticks very well with epoxy. So,
> unless you want to take the chance of sanding off the fabric, you
> might be alot better off with real peel ply.
" So who's your sailmaker?"
Stuart Hopkins at Dabbler Sails. www.dabblersails.com .
Stuart Hopkins at Dabbler Sails. www.dabblersails.com .
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
> So who's your sailmaker?
>
> HJ
>
> donm172001 wrote:
> > Actually, between the plans and his book there was very little
that
> > was not covered. I did choose to use Tom Hill's method for
> > determining the strake patterns by placing the stringers on the
> > molds. Iain talks about this in his book but does not go into too
> > much detail. The method is described very well in "Ultralight
> > Boatbuilding" by Tom Hill. Iain is a very good draftsman, and as
such
> > rarely double dimensions anything. You need to study the plans
> > carefully to pick up all of the information, but it is all there.
One
> > thing I did find was that Iain does not talk at all about making
your
> > own sails. I had my lug sail professionaly made by a guy who
knows
> > how to make lug sails. He had me find out how flexible the spars
were
> > before he made the sail so it would be cut correctly. I would
have
> > totally missed that if I had made the sail myself.
> >
> >
> > ---
> >
>
Bill the part number I gave was for the polyester fabric not the Dacron. I have used the polyester on some epoxy work I had done. It was not to bad to peel off if you left a pull tab. It did leave a nice finish, I left the peel ply on till I was ready for the next layer of glass. It was nice to not have to sand before reglassing.
Like I said I didn't know if epoxy would stick to Dacron fabric.
Bill Hamm <griff10us@...> wrote: Real peel ply is treated so the epoxy doesn't stick very well, the
problem with using conventional aircraft dacron is the reason epoxy
doesn't stick very well is it's a very tight weave and since it's
uncertified (certified cloth is fairly expensive) the weave varies
and the more open weave dacron sticks very well with epoxy. So,
unless you want to take the chance of sanding off the fabric, you
might be alot better off with real peel ply.
Bill H.
cloth the part number is 09-00921 The fabric 66 inches wide. I also
see they have a light weight Dacron BUT I have no idea if epoxy
sticks to it or now. www.aircraftspruce.com
www.wickaircraft.com
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Like I said I didn't know if epoxy would stick to Dacron fabric.
Bill Hamm <griff10us@...> wrote: Real peel ply is treated so the epoxy doesn't stick very well, the
problem with using conventional aircraft dacron is the reason epoxy
doesn't stick very well is it's a very tight weave and since it's
uncertified (certified cloth is fairly expensive) the weave varies
and the more open weave dacron sticks very well with epoxy. So,
unless you want to take the chance of sanding off the fabric, you
might be alot better off with real peel ply.
Bill H.
> Ken is correct you can spend big bucks and get real peel ply thelast time I checked it was 8 to 12 dollars a running yard.
>stuff. If you are here in the states Aircraft Spruce had a 1.7 oz
> Or get some light weight aircraft fabric. You want the uncertified
cloth the part number is 09-00921 The fabric 66 inches wide. I also
see they have a light weight Dacron BUT I have no idea if epoxy
sticks to it or now. www.aircraftspruce.com
>I recall Wick's prices were a bit better then AS on the fabric.
> Wick's Aircraft Supply also has the uncertified fabric as well. As
www.wickaircraft.com
>it
> Take care all and it's almost the weekend!
> Krissie
>
>
>
> Here's an easy way to make them nice:
>
> Get some cheap, thin, tight weave 100% polyester fabric and smooth
> over your freshly applied epoxy/glass taped seams. Use one ofthose
> cheap yellow plastic spreaders designed for auto body filler, or aflatten it
> squeegee, or some other smoothing tool you're comfortable with.
>
> Press and smooth the fabric onto the wet epoxy/glass tape and
> out as much as possible. You'll find that this is a relativelyclean
> operation compared with trying to smooth the tape without thepolyester
> fabric.the
>
> Then the following day after the epoxy has cured, just peel off
> polyester fabric and you'll have a very nice, smooth joint. Youwon't
> even need to clean or sand it before painting because peeling offthe
> polyester fabric removes amine blush and preps the surface as goodas
> sanding, if not better.---------------------------------
>
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Real peel ply is treated so the epoxy doesn't stick very well, the
problem with using conventional aircraft dacron is the reason epoxy
doesn't stick very well is it's a very tight weave and since it's
uncertified (certified cloth is fairly expensive) the weave varies
and the more open weave dacron sticks very well with epoxy. So,
unless you want to take the chance of sanding off the fabric, you
might be alot better off with real peel ply.
Bill H.
cloth the part number is 09-00921 The fabric 66 inches wide. I also
see they have a light weight Dacron BUT I have no idea if epoxy
sticks to it or now. www.aircraftspruce.com
www.wickaircraft.com
problem with using conventional aircraft dacron is the reason epoxy
doesn't stick very well is it's a very tight weave and since it's
uncertified (certified cloth is fairly expensive) the weave varies
and the more open weave dacron sticks very well with epoxy. So,
unless you want to take the chance of sanding off the fabric, you
might be alot better off with real peel ply.
Bill H.
> Ken is correct you can spend big bucks and get real peel ply thelast time I checked it was 8 to 12 dollars a running yard.
>stuff. If you are here in the states Aircraft Spruce had a 1.7 oz
> Or get some light weight aircraft fabric. You want the uncertified
cloth the part number is 09-00921 The fabric 66 inches wide. I also
see they have a light weight Dacron BUT I have no idea if epoxy
sticks to it or now. www.aircraftspruce.com
>I recall Wick's prices were a bit better then AS on the fabric.
> Wick's Aircraft Supply also has the uncertified fabric as well. As
www.wickaircraft.com
>it
> Take care all and it's almost the weekend!
> Krissie
>
>
>
> Here's an easy way to make them nice:
>
> Get some cheap, thin, tight weave 100% polyester fabric and smooth
> over your freshly applied epoxy/glass taped seams. Use one ofthose
> cheap yellow plastic spreaders designed for auto body filler, or aflatten it
> squeegee, or some other smoothing tool you're comfortable with.
>
> Press and smooth the fabric onto the wet epoxy/glass tape and
> out as much as possible. You'll find that this is a relativelyclean
> operation compared with trying to smooth the tape without thepolyester
> fabric.the
>
> Then the following day after the epoxy has cured, just peel off
> polyester fabric and you'll have a very nice, smooth joint. Youwon't
> even need to clean or sand it before painting because peeling offthe
> polyester fabric removes amine blush and preps the surface as goodas
> sanding, if not better.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
On Thu, Feb 21, 2008 at 6:17 PM, Kenneth Grome
<bagacayboatworks@...> wrote:
See also:
http://terry_holston.tripod.com/id4.html
<bagacayboatworks@...> wrote:
> > I'm not really short on time, but I've grownI have never tried this peel ply technique, but it is intriguing...
> > tired of trying to make taped seams look nice.
> > I know it can be, and is done, but the skill
> > escapes me.
>
> Here's an easy way to make them nice:
>
> Get some cheap, thin, tight weave 100% polyester fabric and smooth it
> over your freshly applied epoxy/glass taped seams.
See also:
http://terry_holston.tripod.com/id4.html
Wicks part number SF104ANON $5.85 a yard about $2 cheaper than AS.
HJ
Kristine Bennett wrote:
HJ
Kristine Bennett wrote:
> Ken is correct you can spend big bucks and get real peel ply the last time I checked it was 8 to 12 dollars a running yard.
>
> Or get some light weight aircraft fabric. You want the uncertified stuff. If you are here in the states Aircraft Spruce had a 1.7 oz cloth the part number is 09-00921 The fabric 66 inches wide. I also see they have a light weight Dacron BUT I have no idea if epoxy sticks to it or now. www.aircraftspruce.com
>
> Wick's Aircraft Supply also has the uncertified fabric as well. As I recall Wick's prices were a bit better then AS on the fabric. www.wickaircraft.com
>
> Take care all and it's almost the weekend!
> Krissie
>
>
>
>
>
I bought a box of 100 of those spreaders from Harbor freight about 12
years ago, I am almost out. Any other sources of large quantities cheep
out there?
HJ
Kenneth Grome wrote:
years ago, I am almost out. Any other sources of large quantities cheep
out there?
HJ
Kenneth Grome wrote:
>> I'm not really short on time, but I've grown
>> tired of trying to make taped seams look nice.
>> I know it can be, and is done, but the skill
>> escapes me.
>>
>
>
> Here's an easy way to make them nice:
>
> Get some cheap, thin, tight weave 100% polyester fabric and smooth it
> over your freshly applied epoxy/glass taped seams. Use one of those
> cheap yellow plastic spreaders designed for auto body filler, or a
> squeegee, or some other smoothing tool you're comfortable with.
>
> Press and smooth the fabric onto the wet epoxy/glass tape and flatten it
> out as much as possible. You'll find that this is a relatively clean
> operation compared with trying to smooth the tape without the polyester
> fabric.
>
> Then the following day after the epoxy has cured, just peel off the
> polyester fabric and you'll have a very nice, smooth joint. You won't
> even need to clean or sand it before painting because peeling off the
> polyester fabric removes amine blush and preps the surface as good as
> sanding, if not better.
>
> :)
>
> Sincerely,
> Ken Grome
> Bagacay Boatworks
> www.bagacayboatworks.com
>
>
>
So who's your sailmaker?
HJ
donm172001 wrote:
HJ
donm172001 wrote:
> Actually, between the plans and his book there was very little that
> was not covered. I did choose to use Tom Hill's method for
> determining the strake patterns by placing the stringers on the
> molds. Iain talks about this in his book but does not go into too
> much detail. The method is described very well in "Ultralight
> Boatbuilding" by Tom Hill. Iain is a very good draftsman, and as such
> rarely double dimensions anything. You need to study the plans
> carefully to pick up all of the information, but it is all there. One
> thing I did find was that Iain does not talk at all about making your
> own sails. I had my lug sail professionaly made by a guy who knows
> how to make lug sails. He had me find out how flexible the spars were
> before he made the sail so it would be cut correctly. I would have
> totally missed that if I had made the sail myself.
>
>
> ---
>
Ken is correct you can spend big bucks and get real peel ply the last time I checked it was 8 to 12 dollars a running yard.
Or get some light weight aircraft fabric. You want the uncertified stuff. If you are here in the states Aircraft Spruce had a 1.7 oz cloth the part number is 09-00921 The fabric 66 inches wide. I also see they have a light weight Dacron BUT I have no idea if epoxy sticks to it or now. www.aircraftspruce.com
Wick's Aircraft Supply also has the uncertified fabric as well. As I recall Wick's prices were a bit better then AS on the fabric. www.wickaircraft.com
Take care all and it's almost the weekend!
Krissie
Here's an easy way to make them nice:
Get some cheap, thin, tight weave 100% polyester fabric and smooth it
over your freshly applied epoxy/glass taped seams. Use one of those
cheap yellow plastic spreaders designed for auto body filler, or a
squeegee, or some other smoothing tool you're comfortable with.
Press and smooth the fabric onto the wet epoxy/glass tape and flatten it
out as much as possible. You'll find that this is a relatively clean
operation compared with trying to smooth the tape without the polyester
fabric.
Then the following day after the epoxy has cured, just peel off the
polyester fabric and you'll have a very nice, smooth joint. You won't
even need to clean or sand it before painting because peeling off the
polyester fabric removes amine blush and preps the surface as good as
sanding, if not better.
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Or get some light weight aircraft fabric. You want the uncertified stuff. If you are here in the states Aircraft Spruce had a 1.7 oz cloth the part number is 09-00921 The fabric 66 inches wide. I also see they have a light weight Dacron BUT I have no idea if epoxy sticks to it or now. www.aircraftspruce.com
Wick's Aircraft Supply also has the uncertified fabric as well. As I recall Wick's prices were a bit better then AS on the fabric. www.wickaircraft.com
Take care all and it's almost the weekend!
Krissie
Here's an easy way to make them nice:
Get some cheap, thin, tight weave 100% polyester fabric and smooth it
over your freshly applied epoxy/glass taped seams. Use one of those
cheap yellow plastic spreaders designed for auto body filler, or a
squeegee, or some other smoothing tool you're comfortable with.
Press and smooth the fabric onto the wet epoxy/glass tape and flatten it
out as much as possible. You'll find that this is a relatively clean
operation compared with trying to smooth the tape without the polyester
fabric.
Then the following day after the epoxy has cured, just peel off the
polyester fabric and you'll have a very nice, smooth joint. You won't
even need to clean or sand it before painting because peeling off the
polyester fabric removes amine blush and preps the surface as good as
sanding, if not better.
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> The polyester does not stick to the epoxy?It sticks, but it can also be peeled off -- because it doesn't stick
very well. That's the whole point. When you use a fabric that only
sticks a little bit, you can peel it off later and have a nice
ready-to-paint surface.
The epoxy appears to soak into the fabric when you're smoothing it onto
your wet glass tape joint. But the tight weave of the fabric prevents
the epoxy from getting in between the fibers very well. This prevents
it from getting a good grip on the fabric and developing the strength
epoxy is known for. So later when you try to peel off the polyester
fabric it will come off in one sheet or layer -- assuming the polyester
fibers do not break of course!
Earlier I said to use thin polyester cloth, but if you get it too thin
you might have problems peeling it off later, because fibers that are
too thin might tear. The tightness of the weave is actually more
imporant than the thickness of the cloth, and you want a tight weave,
not an open weave. You should also be sure to get a plain weave
fabric -- but plain weaves are always the cheapeast type of fabrics
available anyways, and since this is a throw-away material you don't
want to spend any more money on it than necessary.
Basically you're looking for a polyester fabric that is plain weave and
tightly woven, with fibers that are strong enough to hold together when
peeling it off the underlying epoxy later.
Just buy a few samples and try them on some test joints if you're not
sure of which polyester fabric will work best. I bought a few yards of
the cheapest stuff I could find and it works great. With any luck
you'll have the same results.
Note that it takes a bit of strength to peel the polyester fabric off
the epoxy later. It's not like peeling a banana, you actually have to
use some muscle!
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
The polyester does not stick to the epoxy?
----- Original Message ----
From: Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 9:17:25 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Oughtred
Get some cheap, thin, tight weave 100% polyester fabric and smooth it
over your freshly applied epoxy/glass taped seams. Use one of those
cheap yellow plastic spreaders designed for auto body filler, or a
squeegee, or some other smoothing tool you're comfortable with.
Press and smooth the fabric onto the wet epoxy/glass tape and flatten it
out as much as possible. You'll find that this is a relatively clean
operation compared with trying to smooth the tape without the polyester
fabric.
Then the following day after the epoxy has cured, just peel off the
polyester fabric and you'll have a very nice, smooth joint. You won't
even need to clean or sand it before painting because peeling off the
polyester fabric removes amine blush and preps the surface as good as
sanding, if not better.
:)
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatwork s.com
____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
----- Original Message ----
From: Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 9:17:25 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Oughtred
> I'm not really short on time, but I've grownHere's an easy way to make them nice:
> tired of trying to make taped seams look nice.
> I know it can be, and is done, but the skill
> escapes me.
Get some cheap, thin, tight weave 100% polyester fabric and smooth it
over your freshly applied epoxy/glass taped seams. Use one of those
cheap yellow plastic spreaders designed for auto body filler, or a
squeegee, or some other smoothing tool you're comfortable with.
Press and smooth the fabric onto the wet epoxy/glass tape and flatten it
out as much as possible. You'll find that this is a relatively clean
operation compared with trying to smooth the tape without the polyester
fabric.
Then the following day after the epoxy has cured, just peel off the
polyester fabric and you'll have a very nice, smooth joint. You won't
even need to clean or sand it before painting because peeling off the
polyester fabric removes amine blush and preps the surface as good as
sanding, if not better.
:)
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatwork s.com
____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> I'm not really short on time, but I've grownHere's an easy way to make them nice:
> tired of trying to make taped seams look nice.
> I know it can be, and is done, but the skill
> escapes me.
Get some cheap, thin, tight weave 100% polyester fabric and smooth it
over your freshly applied epoxy/glass taped seams. Use one of those
cheap yellow plastic spreaders designed for auto body filler, or a
squeegee, or some other smoothing tool you're comfortable with.
Press and smooth the fabric onto the wet epoxy/glass tape and flatten it
out as much as possible. You'll find that this is a relatively clean
operation compared with trying to smooth the tape without the polyester
fabric.
Then the following day after the epoxy has cured, just peel off the
polyester fabric and you'll have a very nice, smooth joint. You won't
even need to clean or sand it before painting because peeling off the
polyester fabric removes amine blush and preps the surface as good as
sanding, if not better.
:)
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
I'm not really short on time, but I've grown tired of trying to make taped seams look nice. I know it can be, and is done, but the skill escapes me. I think the boat I have plans for is the Acorn Tender 7'10". I need a small boat to get out to my mooring, and I got a good deal on a membership to the yacht club, so I thought I would go for that "more elegant" look you speak of.
Rick
----- Original Message ----
From: John and Kathy Trussell <jtrussell2@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 8:27:12 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Oughtred
I built an Acorn Skiff from Woodenboat plans a long time ago. Aside from the fact that I got the sheer strake crooked, the boat was fine. WB published a step by step article and copies were included in the plans. I have since ordered and drooled over his Ptarmigan (since renamed) and Elf (perhaps the prettiest use of plywood I've seen rivaling PCB's Light Dory--and somewhat more complicated to build). The British magazine "Classic Boats published a step by step series of articles on Elf and a copy of these was included with the plans. Ptarmigan came with little in the way of instructions.
One nice thing about Oughtred plans is that they include full sized drawings of each station with laps marked as well as full sized drawings of the stem(s) and transom(s).
It is my belief that the time necessary to build a boat varies directly with the number of pieces in the boat. The time to paint a boat varies with the size of the boat.
There are any number of flat bottomed plywood tenders which will go together much more quickly (including several by PCB). Functionally, these do well enough. A round bottomed lapstrake pram probably perfoms a little better and certainly looks more elegant. Building a lapstrake boat is more interesting. Whether these justify the additional building time is something you have to decide.
JohnT
Rick
----- Original Message ----
From: John and Kathy Trussell <jtrussell2@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 8:27:12 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Oughtred
I built an Acorn Skiff from Woodenboat plans a long time ago. Aside from the fact that I got the sheer strake crooked, the boat was fine. WB published a step by step article and copies were included in the plans. I have since ordered and drooled over his Ptarmigan (since renamed) and Elf (perhaps the prettiest use of plywood I've seen rivaling PCB's Light Dory--and somewhat more complicated to build). The British magazine "Classic Boats published a step by step series of articles on Elf and a copy of these was included with the plans. Ptarmigan came with little in the way of instructions.
One nice thing about Oughtred plans is that they include full sized drawings of each station with laps marked as well as full sized drawings of the stem(s) and transom(s).
It is my belief that the time necessary to build a boat varies directly with the number of pieces in the boat. The time to paint a boat varies with the size of the boat.
There are any number of flat bottomed plywood tenders which will go together much more quickly (including several by PCB). Functionally, these do well enough. A round bottomed lapstrake pram probably perfoms a little better and certainly looks more elegant. Building a lapstrake boat is more interesting. Whether these justify the additional building time is something you have to decide.
JohnT
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick
To: bolger@yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 6:33 PM
Subject: [bolger] Oughtred
I know this a a Bolger site, and trust me, I'm a fan. Have many of his
books, including some out of print now (Different Boats), and have
built tow of his canoes (Payson Pirouge) but I was thinking of building
a small tender by Ian Oughtred, and was wondering if anyone had
expierience with this?
Rick
------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.9/1291 - Release Date: 2/21/2008 11:05 AM
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I built an Acorn Skiff from Woodenboat plans a long time ago. Aside from the fact that I got the sheer strake crooked, the boat was fine. WB published a step by step article and copies were included in the plans. I have since ordered and drooled over his Ptarmigan (since renamed) and Elf (perhaps the prettiest use of plywood I've seen rivaling PCB's Light Dory--and somewhat more complicated to build). The British magazine "Classic Boats published a step by step series of articles on Elf and a copy of these was included with the plans. Ptarmigan came with little in the way of instructions.
One nice thing about Oughtred plans is that they include full sized drawings of each station with laps marked as well as full sized drawings of the stem(s) and transom(s).
It is my belief that the time necessary to build a boat varies directly with the number of pieces in the boat. The time to paint a boat varies with the size of the boat.
There are any number of flat bottomed plywood tenders which will go together much more quickly (including several by PCB). Functionally, these do well enough. A round bottomed lapstrake pram probably perfoms a little better and certainly looks more elegant. Building a lapstrake boat is more interesting. Whether these justify the additional building time is something you have to decide.
JohnT
One nice thing about Oughtred plans is that they include full sized drawings of each station with laps marked as well as full sized drawings of the stem(s) and transom(s).
It is my belief that the time necessary to build a boat varies directly with the number of pieces in the boat. The time to paint a boat varies with the size of the boat.
There are any number of flat bottomed plywood tenders which will go together much more quickly (including several by PCB). Functionally, these do well enough. A round bottomed lapstrake pram probably perfoms a little better and certainly looks more elegant. Building a lapstrake boat is more interesting. Whether these justify the additional building time is something you have to decide.
JohnT
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 6:33 PM
Subject: [bolger] Oughtred
I know this a a Bolger site, and trust me, I'm a fan. Have many of his
books, including some out of print now (Different Boats), and have
built tow of his canoes (Payson Pirouge) but I was thinking of building
a small tender by Ian Oughtred, and was wondering if anyone had
expierience with this?
Rick
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.9/1291 - Release Date: 2/21/2008 11:05 AM
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thank you very much for your input. Sounds like I need to just start building. I may call on your expertise again in the future.
Rick
----- Original Message ----
From: donm172001 <Don_Maurer@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 7:33:05 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Oughtred
Actually, between the plans and his book there was very little that
was not covered. I did choose to use Tom Hill's method for
determining the strake patterns by placing the stringers on the
molds. Iain talks about this in his book but does not go into too
much detail. The method is described very well in "Ultralight
Boatbuilding" by Tom Hill. Iain is a very good draftsman, and as such
rarely double dimensions anything. You need to study the plans
carefully to pick up all of the information, but it is all there. One
thing I did find was that Iain does not talk at all about making your
own sails. I had my lug sail professionaly made by a guy who knows
how to make lug sails. He had me find out how flexible the spars were
before he made the sail so it would be cut correctly. I would have
totally missed that if I had made the sail myself.
Rick
----- Original Message ----
From: donm172001 <Don_Maurer@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 7:33:05 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Oughtred
Actually, between the plans and his book there was very little that
was not covered. I did choose to use Tom Hill's method for
determining the strake patterns by placing the stringers on the
molds. Iain talks about this in his book but does not go into too
much detail. The method is described very well in "Ultralight
Boatbuilding" by Tom Hill. Iain is a very good draftsman, and as such
rarely double dimensions anything. You need to study the plans
carefully to pick up all of the information, but it is all there. One
thing I did find was that Iain does not talk at all about making your
own sails. I had my lug sail professionaly made by a guy who knows
how to make lug sails. He had me find out how flexible the spars were
before he made the sail so it would be cut correctly. I would have
totally missed that if I had made the sail myself.
--- In bolger@yahoogroups. com, rick barnes <barnesrickw@ ...> wrote:
>
> Things that came up that were not covered in his book. Pitfalls I
guess.
>
> Rick
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: donm172001 <Don_Maurer@ ...>
> To: bolger@yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 1:36:38 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Oughtred
>
> I built his Tammie Norrie. What would you like to know?
>
> --- In bolger@yahoogroups. com, "Rick" <barnesrickw@ ...> wrote:
> >
> > I know this a a Bolger site, and trust me, I'm a fan. Have many
of
> his
> > books, including some out of print now (Different Boats), and
have
> > built tow of his canoes (Payson Pirouge) but I was thinking of
> building
> > a small tender by Ian Oughtred, and was wondering if anyone had
> > expierience with this?
> >
> > Rick
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
____________ __
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
>http://www.yahoocom/r/hs
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Actually, between the plans and his book there was very little that
was not covered. I did choose to use Tom Hill's method for
determining the strake patterns by placing the stringers on the
molds. Iain talks about this in his book but does not go into too
much detail. The method is described very well in "Ultralight
Boatbuilding" by Tom Hill. Iain is a very good draftsman, and as such
rarely double dimensions anything. You need to study the plans
carefully to pick up all of the information, but it is all there. One
thing I did find was that Iain does not talk at all about making your
own sails. I had my lug sail professionaly made by a guy who knows
how to make lug sails. He had me find out how flexible the spars were
before he made the sail so it would be cut correctly. I would have
totally missed that if I had made the sail myself.
was not covered. I did choose to use Tom Hill's method for
determining the strake patterns by placing the stringers on the
molds. Iain talks about this in his book but does not go into too
much detail. The method is described very well in "Ultralight
Boatbuilding" by Tom Hill. Iain is a very good draftsman, and as such
rarely double dimensions anything. You need to study the plans
carefully to pick up all of the information, but it is all there. One
thing I did find was that Iain does not talk at all about making your
own sails. I had my lug sail professionaly made by a guy who knows
how to make lug sails. He had me find out how flexible the spars were
before he made the sail so it would be cut correctly. I would have
totally missed that if I had made the sail myself.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, rick barnes <barnesrickw@...> wrote:
>
> Things that came up that were not covered in his book. Pitfalls I
guess.
>
> Rick
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: donm172001 <Don_Maurer@...>
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 1:36:38 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Oughtred
>
> I built his Tammie Norrie. What would you like to know?
>
> --- In bolger@yahoogroups. com, "Rick" <barnesrickw@ ...> wrote:
> >
> > I know this a a Bolger site, and trust me, I'm a fan. Have many
of
> his
> > books, including some out of print now (Different Boats), and
have
> > built tow of his canoes (Payson Pirouge) but I was thinking of
> building
> > a small tender by Ian Oughtred, and was wondering if anyone had
> > expierience with this?
> >
> > Rick
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
>http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Things that came up that were not covered in his book. Pitfalls I guess.
Rick
----- Original Message ----
From: donm172001 <Don_Maurer@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 1:36:38 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Oughtred
I built his Tammie Norrie. What would you like to know?
Rick
----- Original Message ----
From: donm172001 <Don_Maurer@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 1:36:38 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Oughtred
I built his Tammie Norrie. What would you like to know?
--- In bolger@yahoogroups. com, "Rick" <barnesrickw@ ...> wrote:
>
> I know this a a Bolger site, and trust me, I'm a fan. Have many of
his
> books, including some out of print now (Different Boats), and have
> built tow of his canoes (Payson Pirouge) but I was thinking of
building
> a small tender by Ian Oughtred, and was wondering if anyone had
> expierience with this?
>
> Rick
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I built his Tammie Norrie. What would you like to know?
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Rick" <barnesrickw@...> wrote:
>
> I know this a a Bolger site, and trust me, I'm a fan. Have many of
his
> books, including some out of print now (Different Boats), and have
> built tow of his canoes (Payson Pirouge) but I was thinking of
building
> a small tender by Ian Oughtred, and was wondering if anyone had
> expierience with this?
>
> Rick
>
I know this a a Bolger site, and trust me, I'm a fan. Have many of his
books, including some out of print now (Different Boats), and have
built tow of his canoes (Payson Pirouge) but I was thinking of building
a small tender by Ian Oughtred, and was wondering if anyone had
expierience with this?
Rick
books, including some out of print now (Different Boats), and have
built tow of his canoes (Payson Pirouge) but I was thinking of building
a small tender by Ian Oughtred, and was wondering if anyone had
expierience with this?
Rick