Re: [bolger] Re: Tools for Nicopress? Diesel Maintenance
A thing I failed to mentionabot the fuel shut was that the manual shut
off at the tank that we had was electric. The switch was at th stove and
it had a small red light on it. When you wanted to light the stove you
flipped the switchThe light and the stove came on. The only problem was
the coil in the valve was energized when using the stove. It didn't use
a lot of current but some. Between it and the automatic shut off I
think we were pretty safebut nothing is 100%.
Doug
txsailor37 wrote:
off at the tank that we had was electric. The switch was at th stove and
it had a small red light on it. When you wanted to light the stove you
flipped the switchThe light and the stove came on. The only problem was
the coil in the valve was energized when using the stove. It didn't use
a lot of current but some. Between it and the automatic shut off I
think we were pretty safebut nothing is 100%.
Doug
txsailor37 wrote:
>
> Krissie, I'm not saying you're too stupid to maintain your vessel.
> I was saying that a mast failure is better compared to an engine
> failure. Diesel is the fuel used in the engine and wind is the fuel
> for a sail. You may be right that it is difficult to know that
> rigging is in poor condition and likely to fail, but there are
> inspections that can be performed. And, don't get me wrong I am not
> opposed to diesel engines, they have their place, it all depends on
> what you you want to do. I use a gas powered boat frequently for
> fishing.
>
> Having said all of this I'll probably lose my mast this weekend!!
>
> Bobby
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com<mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>,
> Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
> >
> > Bobby if I'm that damn stupid to not take care of the engine in my
> boat I deserve to have it fail. Also Bobby I was raised around/on
> and worked on commerical fishing boats that engine is the heartbeat
> of the WHOLE boat. So you take care of it! It starts to act up you
> take care of it. I'm not a puker like a lot of the people that buy
> motor yachts.
> >
> > I look at a car or truck as something to be used. It's something
> that is needed so you kinda take care of it. I just got done with
> putting a newer engine in my 79 Toyota pickup I put off doing it for
> as long as I could. I can't throw any stones at my Toy it's got
> 600,000 on it.
> >
> > An engine in a boat will likely give you warning before it quits.
> An aluminum mast or spar gives no warning. So you really can't
> compair the two side by side.
> >
> > Krissie
> >
> >
> > txsailor37 <txsailor37@...> wrote:
> Quote:
> > "Lets see new mast 4 to 6 grand or more, all new rigging 3 to 4
> > grand, repair sail 500 dollars, replace lights and wiring and
> radio
> > gear 300 dollars then to install it... 5 to 10 grand. For that I
> can
> > buy a lot of diesel. They say the wind is free but being able to
> use
> > it is not!"
> >
> > I think that you should compare the price of repairing a lost
> mast to
> > the price of a diesel engine damaged by neglect rather than the
> price
> > of diesel. If you lose the diesel engine on a motor yacht, I
> would
> > think that $10 grand would be a drop in the bucket!
> >
> > Bobby
> >
> > -
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
Krissie, I'm not saying you're too stupid to maintain your vessel.
I was saying that a mast failure is better compared to an engine
failure. Diesel is the fuel used in the engine and wind is the fuel
for a sail. You may be right that it is difficult to know that
rigging is in poor condition and likely to fail, but there are
inspections that can be performed. And, don't get me wrong I am not
opposed to diesel engines, they have their place, it all depends on
what you you want to do. I use a gas powered boat frequently for
fishing.
Having said all of this I'll probably lose my mast this weekend!!
Bobby
I was saying that a mast failure is better compared to an engine
failure. Diesel is the fuel used in the engine and wind is the fuel
for a sail. You may be right that it is difficult to know that
rigging is in poor condition and likely to fail, but there are
inspections that can be performed. And, don't get me wrong I am not
opposed to diesel engines, they have their place, it all depends on
what you you want to do. I use a gas powered boat frequently for
fishing.
Having said all of this I'll probably lose my mast this weekend!!
Bobby
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
>
> Bobby if I'm that damn stupid to not take care of the engine in my
boat I deserve to have it fail. Also Bobby I was raised around/on
and worked on commerical fishing boats that engine is the heartbeat
of the WHOLE boat. So you take care of it! It starts to act up you
take care of it. I'm not a puker like a lot of the people that buy
motor yachts.
>
> I look at a car or truck as something to be used. It's something
that is needed so you kinda take care of it. I just got done with
putting a newer engine in my 79 Toyota pickup I put off doing it for
as long as I could. I can't throw any stones at my Toy it's got
600,000 on it.
>
> An engine in a boat will likely give you warning before it quits.
An aluminum mast or spar gives no warning. So you really can't
compair the two side by side.
>
> Krissie
>
>
> txsailor37 <txsailor37@...> wrote:
Quote:
> "Lets see new mast 4 to 6 grand or more, all new rigging 3 to 4
> grand, repair sail 500 dollars, replace lights and wiring and
radio
> gear 300 dollars then to install it... 5 to 10 grand. For that I
can
> buy a lot of diesel. They say the wind is free but being able to
use
> it is not!"
>
> I think that you should compare the price of repairing a lost
mast to
> the price of a diesel engine damaged by neglect rather than the
price
> of diesel. If you lose the diesel engine on a motor yacht, I
would
> think that $10 grand would be a drop in the bucket!
>
> Bobby
>
> -
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Bobby if I'm that damn stupid to not take care of the engine in my boat I deserve to have it fail. Also Bobby I was raised around/on and worked on commerical fishing boats that engine is the heartbeat of the WHOLE boat. So you take care of it! It starts to act up you take care of it. I'm not a puker like a lot of the people that buy motor yachts.
I look at a car or truck as something to be used. It's something that is needed so you kinda take care of it. I just got done with putting a newer engine in my 79 Toyota pickup I put off doing it for as long as I could. I can't throw any stones at my Toy it's got 600,000 on it.
An engine in a boat will likely give you warning before it quits. An aluminum mast or spar gives no warning. So you really can't compair the two side by side.
Krissie
txsailor37 <txsailor37@...> wrote: Quote:
"Lets see new mast 4 to 6 grand or more, all new rigging 3 to 4
grand, repair sail 500 dollars, replace lights and wiring and radio
gear 300 dollars then to install it... 5 to 10 grand. For that I can
buy a lot of diesel. They say the wind is free but being able to use
it is not!"
I think that you should compare the price of repairing a lost mast to
the price of a diesel engine damaged by neglect rather than the price
of diesel. If you lose the diesel engine on a motor yacht, I would
think that $10 grand would be a drop in the bucket!
Bobby
-
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I look at a car or truck as something to be used. It's something that is needed so you kinda take care of it. I just got done with putting a newer engine in my 79 Toyota pickup I put off doing it for as long as I could. I can't throw any stones at my Toy it's got 600,000 on it.
An engine in a boat will likely give you warning before it quits. An aluminum mast or spar gives no warning. So you really can't compair the two side by side.
Krissie
txsailor37 <txsailor37@...> wrote: Quote:
"Lets see new mast 4 to 6 grand or more, all new rigging 3 to 4
grand, repair sail 500 dollars, replace lights and wiring and radio
gear 300 dollars then to install it... 5 to 10 grand. For that I can
buy a lot of diesel. They say the wind is free but being able to use
it is not!"
I think that you should compare the price of repairing a lost mast to
the price of a diesel engine damaged by neglect rather than the price
of diesel. If you lose the diesel engine on a motor yacht, I would
think that $10 grand would be a drop in the bucket!
Bobby
-
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
My preference is for both, if doable. :) Motorsailing on a decently set
up boat is faster than sailing and uses much less fuel. Even if proceeding
primarily under power, a steadying sail does a lot to tame the roll and make
the boat more comfortable in a seaway. I also like the idea of junk sails --
they appear to be very simple to fabricate, and an unstayed rig (assuming
the boat is designed to take it) has major advantages in simplicity and
possibly cost, depending on the assumptions.
-p
On Tue, Feb 26, 2008 at 9:46 AM, Douglas Pollard <Dougpol1@...>
wrote:
up boat is faster than sailing and uses much less fuel. Even if proceeding
primarily under power, a steadying sail does a lot to tame the roll and make
the boat more comfortable in a seaway. I also like the idea of junk sails --
they appear to be very simple to fabricate, and an unstayed rig (assuming
the boat is designed to take it) has major advantages in simplicity and
possibly cost, depending on the assumptions.
-p
On Tue, Feb 26, 2008 at 9:46 AM, Douglas Pollard <Dougpol1@...>
wrote:
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> *snip*
I am go into say some things here that I am sure will be roundly
disagreed with. Some of it is my opinion and some the opinions of
Chesapeake bay watermen.
The bay watermen were used to buying a worn out v8 automotive
gasoline engine and having it rebuilt I run a machine shop and we did
some of them. A shop named Duncoms did probably 70 % of them. The
engines could be remachined and rebuilt for about $1200.oo in the mid
1970s. They used the same transitions mostly velvet drives and rebuilt
them for a few hundred dollars. So they had a new engine installed for
less than $2000.00. These engines were pretty well shot after three
years and they never rebuilt them because they ran saltwater through
them. They were run flat out to the fishing, crabbing or oyster
grounds. Crabbing in the winter was a 2 to 3 hour run to the mouth of
the bay and the engines were pulling crab drudges all day long and
running hydrolic winders. A Chevrolet 350 would do the job but for some
bigger boats it took two.
Along came the gasoline crunch and many install 471 diesels. The
first thing they learned was those little diesel just weren,t big
enough. They tried 671s and they still often did not have the power
they were used to. A lot of boats wound up with, I believe they were
871's that cost a pile of money. Everyone thought diesels were
forever. It's not so when they are run hard. The first years because
they were lugging the engines down just like they did the gasoline
engines with them blowing black smoke they were doing a valve job every
year. They were getting four to five years out of them before a very
expensive rebuild was necessary.
What I was hearing from them is where the heck is the economy. Run
them diesels hard and they burn fuel. Rune'm hard and they don't last.
This is not what I am saying but what one heck of a lot of watermen were
saying. I think the big problem was they were mistreating them the same
way they did the gasoline engines. The gas engines were cheap and were
less harmed by abuse than diesel.
With a pleasure boat and likely about all commercial boats today
they are taken better care of. Considering inflation diesel engine are
probably half the price they were in the mid 1970s.
Now when you compare the price of diesel to sail you have to
consider whose boat it is.
I think most of us on these lists are likely to build our own boats or
rebuild and older boat.
Today for a cruising boat you can build some type of sharpie like boat.
It can be wood with glass over. Mast can be wood or aluminum poles if
you can weld aluminum. Rigging can be of the loop and splice variety.
Another way and just as good for the cruising boat is the new no or low
stretch line to replace stainless rigging. I suspect a 30 ft sharpie
type vessel can be rigged by myself for a thousand dollars or there
abouts. That does not mean winches which are only needed by racers
anyway or 50ft boats. I single handed my 30 1/2 ft Crocker ketch for 10
years with out any winches and finally installed two that I bought cheap
at a yard sail. I then started tightening up my Genny hard on the wind.
The funny thing was I don't think it took any less time to get to
Baltimore from Virgina.
Buy a sail right sewing machine and a sail kit and make you own
sails. I made sails for my 20ft Elver canoe yawl for $700 as sail shop
would likely have wanted at least $2500 for 3 sails for that small
boat. I would think that a 30ft Ketch, schooner or sloop would
cost less than $ 4000 for rig and sails. By the way sewing sails is
the easiest of all sewing projects if you buy a kit. Much easier than
boat canvas work. If your wife has ever sewn up a dress it's at least a
hundred times easier. You put the sails together on the floor very
carefully by the lines on the sail. If you get these together to the
lines and precut edges sewing is a cinch. The sewing does not have to be
straight because all the accuracy is in taping the seems and all the
sewing does is keep it all from coming apart. With an hours practice
anyone can be sewing sails. If you can't read and follow directions and
drawn lines your in trouble.
There is no comparison in cost to a diesel engine much less fuel.
But cheaper is still not a good reason to sail It's like the difference
in mountain climbing or flying over a mountain in an airplane. If you
don't want to suffer don't sail and for that matter stay off of boats
all together. Wish I had a nickle for every time I have asked myself why
in the heck to I putmyself through this. In the end its all worth it and
I have never ones said, Gee, I wish I had worked that winter instead of
sailing to the Bahamas. Ask an old sailor. "What do you remember most of
your young life"? The answer will be sailing related.
Doug
If you put a tank in a box keel it should be a collapsible one so it
will collapse as you use the fuel then you can fill the keel with
saltwater otherwise you will have one very tender boat.
Pierce Nichols wrote:
disagreed with. Some of it is my opinion and some the opinions of
Chesapeake bay watermen.
The bay watermen were used to buying a worn out v8 automotive
gasoline engine and having it rebuilt I run a machine shop and we did
some of them. A shop named Duncoms did probably 70 % of them. The
engines could be remachined and rebuilt for about $1200.oo in the mid
1970s. They used the same transitions mostly velvet drives and rebuilt
them for a few hundred dollars. So they had a new engine installed for
less than $2000.00. These engines were pretty well shot after three
years and they never rebuilt them because they ran saltwater through
them. They were run flat out to the fishing, crabbing or oyster
grounds. Crabbing in the winter was a 2 to 3 hour run to the mouth of
the bay and the engines were pulling crab drudges all day long and
running hydrolic winders. A Chevrolet 350 would do the job but for some
bigger boats it took two.
Along came the gasoline crunch and many install 471 diesels. The
first thing they learned was those little diesel just weren,t big
enough. They tried 671s and they still often did not have the power
they were used to. A lot of boats wound up with, I believe they were
871's that cost a pile of money. Everyone thought diesels were
forever. It's not so when they are run hard. The first years because
they were lugging the engines down just like they did the gasoline
engines with them blowing black smoke they were doing a valve job every
year. They were getting four to five years out of them before a very
expensive rebuild was necessary.
What I was hearing from them is where the heck is the economy. Run
them diesels hard and they burn fuel. Rune'm hard and they don't last.
This is not what I am saying but what one heck of a lot of watermen were
saying. I think the big problem was they were mistreating them the same
way they did the gasoline engines. The gas engines were cheap and were
less harmed by abuse than diesel.
With a pleasure boat and likely about all commercial boats today
they are taken better care of. Considering inflation diesel engine are
probably half the price they were in the mid 1970s.
Now when you compare the price of diesel to sail you have to
consider whose boat it is.
I think most of us on these lists are likely to build our own boats or
rebuild and older boat.
Today for a cruising boat you can build some type of sharpie like boat.
It can be wood with glass over. Mast can be wood or aluminum poles if
you can weld aluminum. Rigging can be of the loop and splice variety.
Another way and just as good for the cruising boat is the new no or low
stretch line to replace stainless rigging. I suspect a 30 ft sharpie
type vessel can be rigged by myself for a thousand dollars or there
abouts. That does not mean winches which are only needed by racers
anyway or 50ft boats. I single handed my 30 1/2 ft Crocker ketch for 10
years with out any winches and finally installed two that I bought cheap
at a yard sail. I then started tightening up my Genny hard on the wind.
The funny thing was I don't think it took any less time to get to
Baltimore from Virgina.
Buy a sail right sewing machine and a sail kit and make you own
sails. I made sails for my 20ft Elver canoe yawl for $700 as sail shop
would likely have wanted at least $2500 for 3 sails for that small
boat. I would think that a 30ft Ketch, schooner or sloop would
cost less than $ 4000 for rig and sails. By the way sewing sails is
the easiest of all sewing projects if you buy a kit. Much easier than
boat canvas work. If your wife has ever sewn up a dress it's at least a
hundred times easier. You put the sails together on the floor very
carefully by the lines on the sail. If you get these together to the
lines and precut edges sewing is a cinch. The sewing does not have to be
straight because all the accuracy is in taping the seems and all the
sewing does is keep it all from coming apart. With an hours practice
anyone can be sewing sails. If you can't read and follow directions and
drawn lines your in trouble.
There is no comparison in cost to a diesel engine much less fuel.
But cheaper is still not a good reason to sail It's like the difference
in mountain climbing or flying over a mountain in an airplane. If you
don't want to suffer don't sail and for that matter stay off of boats
all together. Wish I had a nickle for every time I have asked myself why
in the heck to I putmyself through this. In the end its all worth it and
I have never ones said, Gee, I wish I had worked that winter instead of
sailing to the Bahamas. Ask an old sailor. "What do you remember most of
your young life"? The answer will be sailing related.
Doug
If you put a tank in a box keel it should be a collapsible one so it
will collapse as you use the fuel then you can fill the keel with
saltwater otherwise you will have one very tender boat.
Pierce Nichols wrote:
>
> Depends on the size of the engine. :) Also, you have much more direct
> control over the the maintenance your engine receives than the weather
> extremes your mast is subjected to.
>
> -p
>
> On Tue, Feb 26, 2008 at 7:28 AM, txsailor37 <txsailor37@...
> <mailto:txsailor37%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
>
> > Quote:
> > "Lets see new mast 4 to 6 grand or more, all new rigging 3 to 4
> > grand, repair sail 500 dollars, replace lights and wiring and radio
> > gear 300 dollars then to install it... 5 to 10 grand. For that I can
> > buy a lot of diesel. They say the wind is free but being able to use
> > it is not!"
> >
> > I think that you should compare the price of repairing a lost mast to
> > the price of a diesel engine damaged by neglect rather than the price
> > of diesel. If you lose the diesel engine on a motor yacht, I would
> > think that $10 grand would be a drop in the bucket!
> >
> > Bobby
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com<mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>,
> Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > When I was working on sail boats we got a boat shipped to us and we
> > were rerigging it one of the guys was tuning the rigging and two of
> > the stays snapped. As I recall the mast had a kink in it and the mast
> > was taken down and all rod ends were taken to be xrayed.
> > >
> > > The other time we were heading north to Alaska for the fishing
> > season it was a nice day wind was 10 to 15 and sunny but cool. There
> > were half a dozen boats out it was a nice sight. There was one 40
> > plus foot boat that caught my eye. I was looking at it then turned to
> > talk to Dad and looked back and no sail! So we went over to see if we
> > could help. The mast had broke off just above the first spreader, do
> > to the rigging braking. We used our deck crane to lift the mast out
> > of the water and load it on the deck we also helped get the sail out
> > of the water. They were lucky no one was hurt.
> > >
> > > Lets see new mast 4 to 6 grand or more, all new rigging 3 to 4
> > grand, repair sail 500 dollars, replace lights and wiring and radio
> > gear 300 dollars then to install it... 5 to 10 grand. For that I can
> > buy a lot of diesel. They say the wind is free but being able to use
> > it is not!
> > > I know the small boat mast wouldn't cost that much to replace. If
> > you brake the mast you just make a new one.
> > > Blessings Krissie
> > > I don't know if they have improved it, but rod rigging always used
> > to
> > > have the reputation of breaking unexpectedly. If I was going a
> > little
> > > more up market I would go to spectra with the lashable thimbles
> > seems
> > > to deal with fatigue well and can be set up at home. I haven't
> > used
> > > spectra on boats yet, though, so any slams would be appreciated.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo!
> > Search.
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
> > horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax:
> > (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:bolger-unsubscribe%40yahoogroups.com>
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
Depends on the size of the engine. :) Also, you have much more direct
control over the the maintenance your engine receives than the weather
extremes your mast is subjected to.
-p
control over the the maintenance your engine receives than the weather
extremes your mast is subjected to.
-p
On Tue, Feb 26, 2008 at 7:28 AM, txsailor37 <txsailor37@...> wrote:
> Quote:
> "Lets see new mast 4 to 6 grand or more, all new rigging 3 to 4
> grand, repair sail 500 dollars, replace lights and wiring and radio
> gear 300 dollars then to install it... 5 to 10 grand. For that I can
> buy a lot of diesel. They say the wind is free but being able to use
> it is not!"
>
> I think that you should compare the price of repairing a lost mast to
> the price of a diesel engine damaged by neglect rather than the price
> of diesel. If you lose the diesel engine on a motor yacht, I would
> think that $10 grand would be a drop in the bucket!
>
> Bobby
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
> >
> > When I was working on sail boats we got a boat shipped to us and we
> were rerigging it one of the guys was tuning the rigging and two of
> the stays snapped. As I recall the mast had a kink in it and the mast
> was taken down and all rod ends were taken to be xrayed.
> >
> > The other time we were heading north to Alaska for the fishing
> season it was a nice day wind was 10 to 15 and sunny but cool. There
> were half a dozen boats out it was a nice sight. There was one 40
> plus foot boat that caught my eye. I was looking at it then turned to
> talk to Dad and looked back and no sail! So we went over to see if we
> could help. The mast had broke off just above the first spreader, do
> to the rigging braking. We used our deck crane to lift the mast out
> of the water and load it on the deck we also helped get the sail out
> of the water. They were lucky no one was hurt.
> >
> > Lets see new mast 4 to 6 grand or more, all new rigging 3 to 4
> grand, repair sail 500 dollars, replace lights and wiring and radio
> gear 300 dollars then to install it... 5 to 10 grand. For that I can
> buy a lot of diesel. They say the wind is free but being able to use
> it is not!
> > I know the small boat mast wouldn't cost that much to replace. If
> you brake the mast you just make a new one.
> > Blessings Krissie
> > I don't know if they have improved it, but rod rigging always used
> to
> > have the reputation of breaking unexpectedly. If I was going a
> little
> > more up market I would go to spectra with the lashable thimbles
> seems
> > to deal with fatigue well and can be set up at home. I haven't
> used
> > spectra on boats yet, though, so any slams would be appreciated.
> >
> >
> >
> > _
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo!
> Search.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Kristine, you're dead on with that. Way back in '89-'90 while living
aboard Crystal Dawn, my Spray 28, I sat down one evening and figured
out the cost of capturing the wind. I found that I could have bought
enough diesel fuel to have motored for 48,000 miles!!! Only on small
sailboats with simply rigs is it cheap enough to bother with, more as
a back up to motor failure. If crossing oceans, who wants to listen
to a motor run for 30 days. As far as enough fuel, it depends on the
boat. Mine was a full box keel with 4000 lbs of ballast. Not
needing all that ballast to keep the boat upright under sail I
figured out I could have pulled out 3000 lbs of it, and I would have
had room for 300 gallons of additional fuel, giving me a total of
350. At a cruising speed of 6 knots I used 1/2 gallon an hour, so
this would have given me a range of around 4000 miles. Of course,
most sailboats don't have a big box keel. I'm just saying that it is
possible for a boat under 30' to carry enough fuel to cross an ocean.
Todays young people would probably not even notice the noise, since
they seem to have grown permanant earbuds:)
That being said, I do miss sailing on those nice days. I'm ashore at
a library today as it's blowing gale force here on the Texas coast
today and too uncomfortable even on the intracoastal.
Bob Slimak
aboard Crystal Dawn, my Spray 28, I sat down one evening and figured
out the cost of capturing the wind. I found that I could have bought
enough diesel fuel to have motored for 48,000 miles!!! Only on small
sailboats with simply rigs is it cheap enough to bother with, more as
a back up to motor failure. If crossing oceans, who wants to listen
to a motor run for 30 days. As far as enough fuel, it depends on the
boat. Mine was a full box keel with 4000 lbs of ballast. Not
needing all that ballast to keep the boat upright under sail I
figured out I could have pulled out 3000 lbs of it, and I would have
had room for 300 gallons of additional fuel, giving me a total of
350. At a cruising speed of 6 knots I used 1/2 gallon an hour, so
this would have given me a range of around 4000 miles. Of course,
most sailboats don't have a big box keel. I'm just saying that it is
possible for a boat under 30' to carry enough fuel to cross an ocean.
Todays young people would probably not even notice the noise, since
they seem to have grown permanant earbuds:)
That being said, I do miss sailing on those nice days. I'm ashore at
a library today as it's blowing gale force here on the Texas coast
today and too uncomfortable even on the intracoastal.
Bob Slimak
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Douglas Pollard <Dougpol1@...> wrote:
>
> A good friend of mine is rerigging his 55ft Gardner style Taiwan
Ketch
> at a cost of over thirty thousand and Im not sure if a lot of the
old
> rigging will not be used with new fittings. I think most stays
give
> away in the fittings or right at them. Cruising boats that have
heavy
> stays with low tension seldom break. A boat setting around doing
nothing
> with 10,000 lbs of strain on the rigging is absolutly nuts.. It's
> usually the high strung and lighter rigging of racers or racer
cruisers
> that cause problems. These boats, airplanes and automobiles are
failure
> prone, short lived and that's the nature of the beast. Those
boats are
> sailing on the edge all the time. Really low tech boats seldom if
ever
> have rigging problems.
> I don't think saving money is a good reason to have a sailboat
> considering the cost of sails and rigging. Now days the riggers
are
> convincing people they should replace all the stainless every 10
years
> and that may be so on the racer, It' hogwash on a lowtech cruiser
> maybe every thirty years?? On such a boat I would learn cable
splicing
> and forget about fittings. Bending a cable into an eye and
backsplicing
> is not easy but if you have built your own boat, learning to splice
is a
> cinch in comparison.
> Wanting to cross oceans or just wanting to sail or race
sailboats
> are the only reason for owning one them I can think of.
> I have an opinion on lifelines as well. I hate the little
plastic
> covered stainless
> life lines. Much better I think 3/4 dia. Rope. If you are thrown
> across a 12 ft wide boat to land on a life line and then try to
hang
> on you may stand a chance in my opinion with rope. To land on the
> stainless line about your wast you may find yourself floating
behind the
> boat with your leggs still on deck. Of course that is not really
likely
> to happen but you get my point.
>
> Doug
> Kristine Bennett wrote:
> >
> > When I was working on sail boats we got a boat shipped to us and
we
> > were rerigging it one of the guys was tuning the rigging and two
of
> > the stays snapped. As I recall the mast had a kink in it and the
mast
> > was taken down and all rod ends were taken to be xrayed.
> >
> > The other time we were heading north to Alaska for the fishing
season
> > it was a nice day wind was 10 to 15 and sunny but cool. There
were
> > half a dozen boats out it was a nice sight. There was one 40 plus
foot
> > boat that caught my eye. I was looking at it then turned to talk
to
> > Dad and looked back and no sail! So we went over to see if we
could
> > help. The mast had broke off just above the first spreader, do to
the
> > rigging braking. We used our deck crane to lift the mast out of
the
> > water and load it on the deck we also helped get the sail out of
the
> > water. They were lucky no one was hurt.
> >
> > Lets see new mast 4 to 6 grand or more, all new rigging 3 to 4
grand,
> > repair sail 500 dollars, replace lights and wiring and radio gear
300
> > dollars then to install it... 5 to 10 grand. For that I can buy a
lot
> > of diesel. They say the wind is free but being able to use it is
not!
> > I know the small boat mast wouldn't cost that much to replace. If
you
> > brake the mast you just make a new one.
> > Blessings Krissie
> > I don't know if they have improved it, but rod rigging always
used to
> > have the reputation of breaking unexpectedly. If I was going a
little
> > more up market I would go to spectra with the lashable thimbles
seems
> > to deal with fatigue well and can be set up at home. I haven't
used
> > spectra on boats yet, though, so any slams would be appreciated.
> >
> >
> >
> > _
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with
Yahoo! Search.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
Quote:
"Lets see new mast 4 to 6 grand or more, all new rigging 3 to 4
grand, repair sail 500 dollars, replace lights and wiring and radio
gear 300 dollars then to install it... 5 to 10 grand. For that I can
buy a lot of diesel. They say the wind is free but being able to use
it is not!"
I think that you should compare the price of repairing a lost mast to
the price of a diesel engine damaged by neglect rather than the price
of diesel. If you lose the diesel engine on a motor yacht, I would
think that $10 grand would be a drop in the bucket!
Bobby
"Lets see new mast 4 to 6 grand or more, all new rigging 3 to 4
grand, repair sail 500 dollars, replace lights and wiring and radio
gear 300 dollars then to install it... 5 to 10 grand. For that I can
buy a lot of diesel. They say the wind is free but being able to use
it is not!"
I think that you should compare the price of repairing a lost mast to
the price of a diesel engine damaged by neglect rather than the price
of diesel. If you lose the diesel engine on a motor yacht, I would
think that $10 grand would be a drop in the bucket!
Bobby
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
>
> When I was working on sail boats we got a boat shipped to us and we
were rerigging it one of the guys was tuning the rigging and two of
the stays snapped. As I recall the mast had a kink in it and the mast
was taken down and all rod ends were taken to be xrayed.
>
> The other time we were heading north to Alaska for the fishing
season it was a nice day wind was 10 to 15 and sunny but cool. There
were half a dozen boats out it was a nice sight. There was one 40
plus foot boat that caught my eye. I was looking at it then turned to
talk to Dad and looked back and no sail! So we went over to see if we
could help. The mast had broke off just above the first spreader, do
to the rigging braking. We used our deck crane to lift the mast out
of the water and load it on the deck we also helped get the sail out
of the water. They were lucky no one was hurt.
>
> Lets see new mast 4 to 6 grand or more, all new rigging 3 to 4
grand, repair sail 500 dollars, replace lights and wiring and radio
gear 300 dollars then to install it... 5 to 10 grand. For that I can
buy a lot of diesel. They say the wind is free but being able to use
it is not!
> I know the small boat mast wouldn't cost that much to replace. If
you brake the mast you just make a new one.
> Blessings Krissie
> I don't know if they have improved it, but rod rigging always used
to
> have the reputation of breaking unexpectedly. If I was going a
little
> more up market I would go to spectra with the lashable thimbles
seems
> to deal with fatigue well and can be set up at home. I haven't
used
> spectra on boats yet, though, so any slams would be appreciated.
>
>
>
> _
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo!
Search.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
On Sun, Feb 24, 2008 at 10:22 AM, Douglas Pollard <Dougpol1@...>
wrote:
changes rather abruptly at the fittings, you expect there to be a stress
riser at that point.
rig are than they need to be. The racers are motivated to shave as much
weight aloft as they can, because weight saved aloft is saved twice (or
more), since less weight aloft means less ballast required. A pound off the
masthead could be three or four pounds off the bulb, and all four or five
pounds comes out of displacement and therefore wetted area. Performance
costs like nothing else.
since the character of the material never changes and the change in
cross-section is small and gradual. Not sure if there's ever been a
systematic study, however. I can't help but wondering if you could home-brew
rod rigging. The industrial versions of the stainless fittings (eyes,
turnbuckles, etc) in the more corrosion-resistant grades (e.g. 316) are not
terribly expensive, and coils of stainless rod in the same alloys they use
in commercial rod rigging are relatively inexpensive as well. You can cut
and thread the ends of the rod with relatively cheap tools and screw the
fittings right on. You'd have to make sure to use radius-root threading
dies, in order to ward off fatigue and crevice corrosion issues, but those
aren't a big deal to get. Any thoughts on what the problems with that would
be?
conditions, and they look more nautical to my eye.
-p
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
wrote:
> A good friend of mine is rerigging his 55ft Gardner style Taiwan KetchThat's to be expected -- since the diameter and structure of the stay
> at a cost of over thirty thousand and Im not sure if a lot of the old
> rigging will not be used with new fittings. I think most stays give
> away in the fittings or right at them.
changes rather abruptly at the fittings, you expect there to be a stress
riser at that point.
> Cruising boats that have heavyIt's all in the factor of safety, i.e. how much stronger the elements of the
> stays with low tension seldom break. A boat setting around doing nothing
> with 10,000 lbs of strain on the rigging is absolutly nuts.. It's
> usually the high strung and lighter rigging of racers or racer cruisers
> that cause problems. These boats, airplanes and automobiles are failure
> prone, short lived and that's the nature of the beast. Those boats are
> sailing on the edge all the time. Really low tech boats seldom if ever
> have rigging problems.
rig are than they need to be. The racers are motivated to shave as much
weight aloft as they can, because weight saved aloft is saved twice (or
more), since less weight aloft means less ballast required. A pound off the
masthead could be three or four pounds off the bulb, and all four or five
pounds comes out of displacement and therefore wetted area. Performance
costs like nothing else.
> I don't think saving money is a good reason to have a sailboatI agree; a proper eye-splice should be more robust than a swaged-on fitting,
> considering the cost of sails and rigging. Now days the riggers are
> convincing people they should replace all the stainless every 10 years
> and that may be so on the racer, It' hogwash on a lowtech cruiser
> maybe every thirty years?? On such a boat I would learn cable splicing
> and forget about fittings. Bending a cable into an eye and backsplicing
> is not easy but if you have built your own boat, learning to splice is a
> cinch in comparison.
since the character of the material never changes and the change in
cross-section is small and gradual. Not sure if there's ever been a
systematic study, however. I can't help but wondering if you could home-brew
rod rigging. The industrial versions of the stainless fittings (eyes,
turnbuckles, etc) in the more corrosion-resistant grades (e.g. 316) are not
terribly expensive, and coils of stainless rod in the same alloys they use
in commercial rod rigging are relatively inexpensive as well. You can cut
and thread the ends of the rod with relatively cheap tools and screw the
fittings right on. You'd have to make sure to use radius-root threading
dies, in order to ward off fatigue and crevice corrosion issues, but those
aren't a big deal to get. Any thoughts on what the problems with that would
be?
>Full agreement there. Rope life-lines are easier to hold on to under all
> I have an opinion on lifelines as well. I hate the little plastic
> covered stainless
> life lines. Much better I think 3/4 dia. Rope. If you are thrown
> across a 12 ft wide boat to land on a life line and then try to hang
> on you may stand a chance in my opinion with rope. To land on the
> stainless line about your wast you may find yourself floating behind the
> boat with your leggs still on deck. Of course that is not really likely
> to happen but you get my point.
conditions, and they look more nautical to my eye.
-p
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
A good friend of mine is rerigging his 55ft Gardner style Taiwan Ketch
at a cost of over thirty thousand and Im not sure if a lot of the old
rigging will not be used with new fittings. I think most stays give
away in the fittings or right at them. Cruising boats that have heavy
stays with low tension seldom break. A boat setting around doing nothing
with 10,000 lbs of strain on the rigging is absolutly nuts.. It's
usually the high strung and lighter rigging of racers or racer cruisers
that cause problems. These boats, airplanes and automobiles are failure
prone, short lived and that's the nature of the beast. Those boats are
sailing on the edge all the time. Really low tech boats seldom if ever
have rigging problems.
I don't think saving money is a good reason to have a sailboat
considering the cost of sails and rigging. Now days the riggers are
convincing people they should replace all the stainless every 10 years
and that may be so on the racer, It' hogwash on a lowtech cruiser
maybe every thirty years?? On such a boat I would learn cable splicing
and forget about fittings. Bending a cable into an eye and backsplicing
is not easy but if you have built your own boat, learning to splice is a
cinch in comparison.
Wanting to cross oceans or just wanting to sail or race sailboats
are the only reason for owning one them I can think of.
I have an opinion on lifelines as well. I hate the little plastic
covered stainless
life lines. Much better I think 3/4 dia. Rope. If you are thrown
across a 12 ft wide boat to land on a life line and then try to hang
on you may stand a chance in my opinion with rope. To land on the
stainless line about your wast you may find yourself floating behind the
boat with your leggs still on deck. Of course that is not really likely
to happen but you get my point.
Doug
Kristine Bennett wrote:
at a cost of over thirty thousand and Im not sure if a lot of the old
rigging will not be used with new fittings. I think most stays give
away in the fittings or right at them. Cruising boats that have heavy
stays with low tension seldom break. A boat setting around doing nothing
with 10,000 lbs of strain on the rigging is absolutly nuts.. It's
usually the high strung and lighter rigging of racers or racer cruisers
that cause problems. These boats, airplanes and automobiles are failure
prone, short lived and that's the nature of the beast. Those boats are
sailing on the edge all the time. Really low tech boats seldom if ever
have rigging problems.
I don't think saving money is a good reason to have a sailboat
considering the cost of sails and rigging. Now days the riggers are
convincing people they should replace all the stainless every 10 years
and that may be so on the racer, It' hogwash on a lowtech cruiser
maybe every thirty years?? On such a boat I would learn cable splicing
and forget about fittings. Bending a cable into an eye and backsplicing
is not easy but if you have built your own boat, learning to splice is a
cinch in comparison.
Wanting to cross oceans or just wanting to sail or race sailboats
are the only reason for owning one them I can think of.
I have an opinion on lifelines as well. I hate the little plastic
covered stainless
life lines. Much better I think 3/4 dia. Rope. If you are thrown
across a 12 ft wide boat to land on a life line and then try to hang
on you may stand a chance in my opinion with rope. To land on the
stainless line about your wast you may find yourself floating behind the
boat with your leggs still on deck. Of course that is not really likely
to happen but you get my point.
Doug
Kristine Bennett wrote:
>
> When I was working on sail boats we got a boat shipped to us and we
> were rerigging it one of the guys was tuning the rigging and two of
> the stays snapped. As I recall the mast had a kink in it and the mast
> was taken down and all rod ends were taken to be xrayed.
>
> The other time we were heading north to Alaska for the fishing season
> it was a nice day wind was 10 to 15 and sunny but cool. There were
> half a dozen boats out it was a nice sight. There was one 40 plus foot
> boat that caught my eye. I was looking at it then turned to talk to
> Dad and looked back and no sail! So we went over to see if we could
> help. The mast had broke off just above the first spreader, do to the
> rigging braking. We used our deck crane to lift the mast out of the
> water and load it on the deck we also helped get the sail out of the
> water. They were lucky no one was hurt.
>
> Lets see new mast 4 to 6 grand or more, all new rigging 3 to 4 grand,
> repair sail 500 dollars, replace lights and wiring and radio gear 300
> dollars then to install it... 5 to 10 grand. For that I can buy a lot
> of diesel. They say the wind is free but being able to use it is not!
> I know the small boat mast wouldn't cost that much to replace. If you
> brake the mast you just make a new one.
> Blessings Krissie
> I don't know if they have improved it, but rod rigging always used to
> have the reputation of breaking unexpectedly. If I was going a little
> more up market I would go to spectra with the lashable thimbles seems
> to deal with fatigue well and can be set up at home. I haven't used
> spectra on boats yet, though, so any slams would be appreciated.
>
>
>
> _
>
> ---------------------------------
> Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
When I was working on sail boats we got a boat shipped to us and we were rerigging it one of the guys was tuning the rigging and two of the stays snapped. As I recall the mast had a kink in it and the mast was taken down and all rod ends were taken to be xrayed.
The other time we were heading north to Alaska for the fishing season it was a nice day wind was 10 to 15 and sunny but cool. There were half a dozen boats out it was a nice sight. There was one 40 plus foot boat that caught my eye. I was looking at it then turned to talk to Dad and looked back and no sail! So we went over to see if we could help. The mast had broke off just above the first spreader, do to the rigging braking. We used our deck crane to lift the mast out of the water and load it on the deck we also helped get the sail out of the water. They were lucky no one was hurt.
Lets see new mast 4 to 6 grand or more, all new rigging 3 to 4 grand, repair sail 500 dollars, replace lights and wiring and radio gear 300 dollars then to install it... 5 to 10 grand. For that I can buy a lot of diesel. They say the wind is free but being able to use it is not!
I know the small boat mast wouldn't cost that much to replace. If you brake the mast you just make a new one.
Blessings Krissie
I don't know if they have improved it, but rod rigging always used to
have the reputation of breaking unexpectedly. If I was going a little
more up market I would go to spectra with the lashable thimbles seems
to deal with fatigue well and can be set up at home. I haven't used
spectra on boats yet, though, so any slams would be appreciated.
_
---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The other time we were heading north to Alaska for the fishing season it was a nice day wind was 10 to 15 and sunny but cool. There were half a dozen boats out it was a nice sight. There was one 40 plus foot boat that caught my eye. I was looking at it then turned to talk to Dad and looked back and no sail! So we went over to see if we could help. The mast had broke off just above the first spreader, do to the rigging braking. We used our deck crane to lift the mast out of the water and load it on the deck we also helped get the sail out of the water. They were lucky no one was hurt.
Lets see new mast 4 to 6 grand or more, all new rigging 3 to 4 grand, repair sail 500 dollars, replace lights and wiring and radio gear 300 dollars then to install it... 5 to 10 grand. For that I can buy a lot of diesel. They say the wind is free but being able to use it is not!
I know the small boat mast wouldn't cost that much to replace. If you brake the mast you just make a new one.
Blessings Krissie
I don't know if they have improved it, but rod rigging always used to
have the reputation of breaking unexpectedly. If I was going a little
more up market I would go to spectra with the lashable thimbles seems
to deal with fatigue well and can be set up at home. I haven't used
spectra on boats yet, though, so any slams would be appreciated.
_
---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The multihull guys are using, those are highly loaded with less give
than a monohull.
http://www.precourt.ca/
HJ
proaconstrictor wrote:
than a monohull.
http://www.precourt.ca/
HJ
proaconstrictor wrote:
> I have the bolt tools and they seem to work fine. These days there are
> chinese version of the two stage tool that are cost effective, and I
> guess as long as the sleeves mic out OK they should be fine.
>
> Avoid the two comon amateur erors seen with these: 1) using two
> sleeves, just in case, can create uneven loading and lower strength. 2)
> Make the joints so neat that the ends don't stick out which can
> actually draw blood. Unfortunately the tucked ends are not strong
> enough.
>
> I don't know if they have improved it, but rod rigging always used to
> have the reputation of breaking unexpectedly. If I was going a little
> more up market I would go to spectra with the lashable thimbles seems
> to deal with fatigue well and can be set up at home. I haven't used
> spectra on boats yet, though, so any slams would be appreciated.
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
I have the bolt tools and they seem to work fine. These days there are
chinese version of the two stage tool that are cost effective, and I
guess as long as the sleeves mic out OK they should be fine.
Avoid the two comon amateur erors seen with these: 1) using two
sleeves, just in case, can create uneven loading and lower strength. 2)
Make the joints so neat that the ends don't stick out which can
actually draw blood. Unfortunately the tucked ends are not strong
enough.
I don't know if they have improved it, but rod rigging always used to
have the reputation of breaking unexpectedly. If I was going a little
more up market I would go to spectra with the lashable thimbles seems
to deal with fatigue well and can be set up at home. I haven't used
spectra on boats yet, though, so any slams would be appreciated.
chinese version of the two stage tool that are cost effective, and I
guess as long as the sleeves mic out OK they should be fine.
Avoid the two comon amateur erors seen with these: 1) using two
sleeves, just in case, can create uneven loading and lower strength. 2)
Make the joints so neat that the ends don't stick out which can
actually draw blood. Unfortunately the tucked ends are not strong
enough.
I don't know if they have improved it, but rod rigging always used to
have the reputation of breaking unexpectedly. If I was going a little
more up market I would go to spectra with the lashable thimbles seems
to deal with fatigue well and can be set up at home. I haven't used
spectra on boats yet, though, so any slams would be appreciated.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Pat Smith" <ispincircles2@...> wrote:
I mostly lurk but have a suggestion here:
Go to Lowe's, find their galvanized wire section, and you should also
find a Chinese clone of the regular leveraction Nicopress tool. IF it
is marked in inches for the various swage sizes it should do fine, and
will cost $20-30. I have used one for several years. Watch out,
however, for a farm version with different numbers and slightly
different sizes that is made for fence wire. They look alike.
If in doubt, take a couple pieces of stainless wire and copper sleeves
with you, try swaging in the store, then compare to 'official'
finisheed sizes.
Tools by the Japanese ARM brand also work very well, cost a bit more.
Bob Cavenagh
Keeper of Sharpshooter.
>Hi folks.
> All,
> What tools are we using out there to secure nicoress sleeves over
> stainless steel wire?
>
>
I mostly lurk but have a suggestion here:
Go to Lowe's, find their galvanized wire section, and you should also
find a Chinese clone of the regular leveraction Nicopress tool. IF it
is marked in inches for the various swage sizes it should do fine, and
will cost $20-30. I have used one for several years. Watch out,
however, for a farm version with different numbers and slightly
different sizes that is made for fence wire. They look alike.
If in doubt, take a couple pieces of stainless wire and copper sleeves
with you, try swaging in the store, then compare to 'official'
finisheed sizes.
Tools by the Japanese ARM brand also work very well, cost a bit more.
Bob Cavenagh
Keeper of Sharpshooter.
Pat -
I have used a SwageIt tool for many years and never seen a failure on
any of the sleeves I have done. That said, these are all low tech
boats without tons of stress on the rigging or having to deal with
hurricane force winds while rounding Cape Horn.
The tool works well for the average daysailor. If you are going
Oceanic on us, go with Norseman fittings or solid rod rigging. I doubt
Bolger has them specified on any of his design.
David Jost, having celebrated the "cleaning of the workspace during
today's Nor'easter.
I have used a SwageIt tool for many years and never seen a failure on
any of the sleeves I have done. That said, these are all low tech
boats without tons of stress on the rigging or having to deal with
hurricane force winds while rounding Cape Horn.
The tool works well for the average daysailor. If you are going
Oceanic on us, go with Norseman fittings or solid rod rigging. I doubt
Bolger has them specified on any of his design.
David Jost, having celebrated the "cleaning of the workspace during
today's Nor'easter.
I have used the swaging tool that uses the bolts it works fine but it's slow. Also it's wise to put some anti-sease compound on the bolts.
I have the bolt cutter style now and they all do the same thing just one is faster then the other.
It comes down to now many Nicopress fitting are you going to do and how often. Then what will the budget afford.
Blessings
Krissie
Pat Smith <ispincircles2@...> wrote: All,
What tools are we using out there to secure nicoress sleeves over
stainless steel wire?
I have found only conflicting opinions and arguments after a godd
deal of we searching. Here are the tool options I have found:
-Swaging tool from Bosun's Supply which looks like bolt cutters
($100+)
(Inexpensive copy of nicopress # 1 tool?)
http://www.bosunsupplies.com/products2.cfm?product=swgtool
-Swage-It tool which looks like a walnut cracker using a wrench to
apply force ($30+)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/swagingtool.php
-More-Expensive Nico-Press No 1 Swaging tool which look like bolt
cutters ($300+):
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/nicopresstool.php
-Nicopress Bench mounted Hyrdraulic tool 3 635 (>$400)
-Nicopress # 510 or # 300 Bench Mounted manual tools(Price?)
http://www.versales.com/ns/nicopress/nicotoolsndex.html
Regards,
Pat Smith
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I have the bolt cutter style now and they all do the same thing just one is faster then the other.
It comes down to now many Nicopress fitting are you going to do and how often. Then what will the budget afford.
Blessings
Krissie
Pat Smith <ispincircles2@...> wrote: All,
What tools are we using out there to secure nicoress sleeves over
stainless steel wire?
I have found only conflicting opinions and arguments after a godd
deal of we searching. Here are the tool options I have found:
-Swaging tool from Bosun's Supply which looks like bolt cutters
($100+)
(Inexpensive copy of nicopress # 1 tool?)
http://www.bosunsupplies.com/products2.cfm?product=swgtool
-Swage-It tool which looks like a walnut cracker using a wrench to
apply force ($30+)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/swagingtool.php
-More-Expensive Nico-Press No 1 Swaging tool which look like bolt
cutters ($300+):
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/nicopresstool.php
-Nicopress Bench mounted Hyrdraulic tool 3 635 (>$400)
-Nicopress # 510 or # 300 Bench Mounted manual tools(Price?)
http://www.versales.com/ns/nicopress/nicotoolsndex.html
Regards,
Pat Smith
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
They all do the same job, the difference being in how fast the job is
done. No matter which tool you buy suggest also buying the go/no go
tool that tells you if the swage is compressed enough to be safe,
cheap too.
Bill H.
done. No matter which tool you buy suggest also buying the go/no go
tool that tells you if the swage is compressed enough to be safe,
cheap too.
Bill H.
> All,
> What tools are we using out there to secure nicoress sleeves over
> stainless steel wire?
>
> I have found only conflicting opinions and arguments after a godd
> deal of we searching. Here are the tool options I have found:
>
> -Swaging tool from Bosun's Supply which looks like bolt cutters
> ($100+)
> (Inexpensive copy of nicopress # 1 tool?)
>
>http://www.bosunsupplies.com/products2.cfm?product=swgtool
>
>
> -Swage-It tool which looks like a walnut cracker using a wrench to
> apply force ($30+)
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/swagingtool.php
>
> -More-Expensive Nico-Press No 1 Swaging tool which look like bolt
> cutters ($300+):
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/nicopresstool.php
>
> -Nicopress Bench mounted Hyrdraulic tool 3 635 (>$400)
> -Nicopress # 510 or # 300 Bench Mounted manual tools(Price?)
>
>http://www.versales.com/ns/nicopress/nicotoolsndex.html
>
> Regards,
> Pat Smith
>
Not for a boat, but I've used a larger version of the one A/C Spruce sells
(I got it from McMaster-Carr). It's very slow, but it does the job.
-p
On Fri, Feb 22, 2008 at 2:46 PM, Pat Smith <ispincircles2@...>
wrote:
(I got it from McMaster-Carr). It's very slow, but it does the job.
-p
On Fri, Feb 22, 2008 at 2:46 PM, Pat Smith <ispincircles2@...>
wrote:
> All,[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> What tools are we using out there to secure nicoress sleeves over
> stainless steel wire?
>
> I have found only conflicting opinions and arguments after a godd
> deal of we searching. Here are the tool options I have found:
>
> -Swaging tool from Bosun's Supply which looks like bolt cutters
> ($100+)
> (Inexpensive copy of nicopress # 1 tool?)
>
>http://www.bosunsupplies.com/products2.cfm?product=swgtool
>
>
> -Swage-It tool which looks like a walnut cracker using a wrench to
> apply force ($30+)
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/swagingtool.php
>
> -More-Expensive Nico-Press No 1 Swaging tool which look like bolt
> cutters ($300+):
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/nicopresstool.php
>
> -Nicopress Bench mounted Hyrdraulic tool 3 635 (>$400)
> -Nicopress # 510 or # 300 Bench Mounted manual tools(Price?)
>
>http://www.versales.com/ns/nicopress/nicotoolsndex.html
>
> Regards,
> Pat Smith
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
All,
What tools are we using out there to secure nicoress sleeves over
stainless steel wire?
I have found only conflicting opinions and arguments after a godd
deal of we searching. Here are the tool options I have found:
-Swaging tool from Bosun's Supply which looks like bolt cutters
($100+)
(Inexpensive copy of nicopress # 1 tool?)
http://www.bosunsupplies.com/products2.cfm?product=swgtool
-Swage-It tool which looks like a walnut cracker using a wrench to
apply force ($30+)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/swagingtool.php
-More-Expensive Nico-Press No 1 Swaging tool which look like bolt
cutters ($300+):
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/nicopresstool.php
-Nicopress Bench mounted Hyrdraulic tool 3 635 (>$400)
-Nicopress # 510 or # 300 Bench Mounted manual tools(Price?)
http://www.versales.com/ns/nicopress/nicotoolsndex.html
Regards,
Pat Smith
What tools are we using out there to secure nicoress sleeves over
stainless steel wire?
I have found only conflicting opinions and arguments after a godd
deal of we searching. Here are the tool options I have found:
-Swaging tool from Bosun's Supply which looks like bolt cutters
($100+)
(Inexpensive copy of nicopress # 1 tool?)
http://www.bosunsupplies.com/products2.cfm?product=swgtool
-Swage-It tool which looks like a walnut cracker using a wrench to
apply force ($30+)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/swagingtool.php
-More-Expensive Nico-Press No 1 Swaging tool which look like bolt
cutters ($300+):
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/nicopresstool.php
-Nicopress Bench mounted Hyrdraulic tool 3 635 (>$400)
-Nicopress # 510 or # 300 Bench Mounted manual tools(Price?)
http://www.versales.com/ns/nicopress/nicotoolsndex.html
Regards,
Pat Smith