Re: [bolger] Re: Mast Gauge ?
List,
I got lazy and created an outline of one in autocad. I found the relation
ship of the holes is 30%, 40% and 30%. If the distance between the inner
edge of the outside pieces is 10", the center of the scribes are 3" from
each edge and 4" between them. that again in not perfect, but it is real
close.
Tim - Houston area
I got lazy and created an outline of one in autocad. I found the relation
ship of the holes is 30%, 40% and 30%. If the distance between the inner
edge of the outside pieces is 10", the center of the scribes are 3" from
each edge and 4" between them. that again in not perfect, but it is real
close.
Tim - Houston area
In a message dated 6/30/00 10:51:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
glen_gibson@...writes:
<< The holes are not drilled to divide the area into equal thirds. If you
think
about it, what you are creating is a
90 degree triangle, with the wood to be removed the "hypotenuse" of that
triangle. That's why the formula: >>
Very good, Glen. I stand corrected. Obviously my recall of the article was
less than total and I didn't think things through. Thanks.
Bill in MN
glen_gibson@...writes:
<< The holes are not drilled to divide the area into equal thirds. If you
think
about it, what you are creating is a
90 degree triangle, with the wood to be removed the "hypotenuse" of that
triangle. That's why the formula: >>
Very good, Glen. I stand corrected. Obviously my recall of the article was
less than total and I didn't think things through. Thanks.
Bill in MN
See rough sketch in files under "how to".
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Peter Vanderwaart" <pvanderw@o...> wrote:
> The spacing for a 6" opening is one pencil 1 3/4 inches from each
> end, 2.5" between them. This is not exact, but pretty close, say
> within 1/16".
>
> PHV
>
> >
> > The holes are not drilled to divide the area into equal thirds.
The spacing for a 6" opening is one pencil 1 3/4 inches from each
end, 2.5" between them. This is not exact, but pretty close, say
within 1/16".
PHV
end, 2.5" between them. This is not exact, but pretty close, say
within 1/16".
PHV
>
> The holes are not drilled to divide the area into equal thirds.
>Two holes were drilled between the dowels,The holes are not drilled to divide the area into equal thirds. If you think
>spaced to divide the distance between the dowels into equal thirds
about it, what you are creating is a
90 degree triangle, with the wood to be removed the "hypotenuse" of that
triangle. That's why the formula:
assume 3 sections are a, b, c in order
a squared + b squared = c squared
Glen (having flashbacks into geometry class in high school.....)
wmrpage@...on 06/29/2000 04:47:20 PM
Please respond tobolger@egroups.com
Sent by:wmrpage@...
To:bolger@egroups.com
cc: (Glen Gibson/HQ/3Com)
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Mast Gauge ?
In a message dated 6/29/00 11:53:08 AM Central Daylight Time,
lincolnr@...writes:
<< THere is a drawing of this gadget in one of the Payson instant boat
books. No time to explain it now. I suspect it's on Michalak's site
also. >>
I'm not sure if this is what you have in mind, but I've seen an illustration
of a simple device for this purpose somewhere. It consisted of a short length
of planed lumber, dimensions not being critical, somewhat wider than the
4-sided piece to be marked. Near each end a dowel was installed
perpendicular to the flat plane and again at a spacing somewhat greater than
the width of the 4-sided piece. Two holes were drilled between the dowels,
spaced to divide the distance between the dowels into equal thirds. Pencils
were push-fitted into these two holes with the leads protruding beyond the
bottom of the length of lumber. In use, the guage was placed on top of the
4-sided piece and rotated so that the two dowels were brought into contact
with the sides of the piece. The rotation does not affect the relative
spacing of the dowels and pencils, and the guage can be rotated as necessary
on a tapered piece to maintain the relative spacing as the width of the
4-sided piece decreases or increases. The guage thus leaves two pencil marks
on each side of the 4-sided piece. The space between them delineating one
facet of the 8-sided spar on each face. The space between the marks on
adjoining faces of the 4-sided piece marks the material that needs to be
removed to to create the other 4 facets, which are at 45 degrees to the
surfaces of the original 4-sided piece. Mind you, I haven't tried it. This
is one of those things where a simple illustration is far easier to grasp
than a verbal description.
Bill in MN
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Bill,
I built the spars for my Micro using the spar gauge built from
the instructions in Payson's book, Build the New Instant Boats. (I
think that is the title), It worked like a charm and was a good
winter project.
David Jost, "Boston"
I built the spars for my Micro using the spar gauge built from
the instructions in Payson's book, Build the New Instant Boats. (I
think that is the title), It worked like a charm and was a good
winter project.
David Jost, "Boston"
In a message dated 6/29/00 11:53:08 AM Central Daylight Time,
lincolnr@...writes:
<< THere is a drawing of this gadget in one of the Payson instant boat
books. No time to explain it now. I suspect it's on Michalak's site
also. >>
I'm not sure if this is what you have in mind, but I've seen an illustration
of a simple device for this purpose somewhere. It consisted of a short length
of planed lumber, dimensions not being critical, somewhat wider than the
4-sided piece to be marked. Near each end a dowel was installed
perpendicular to the flat plane and again at a spacing somewhat greater than
the width of the 4-sided piece. Two holes were drilled between the dowels,
spaced to divide the distance between the dowels into equal thirds. Pencils
were push-fitted into these two holes with the leads protruding beyond the
bottom of the length of lumber. In use, the guage was placed on top of the
4-sided piece and rotated so that the two dowels were brought into contact
with the sides of the piece. The rotation does not affect the relative
spacing of the dowels and pencils, and the guage can be rotated as necessary
on a tapered piece to maintain the relative spacing as the width of the
4-sided piece decreases or increases. The guage thus leaves two pencil marks
on each side of the 4-sided piece. The space between them delineating one
facet of the 8-sided spar on each face. The space between the marks on
adjoining faces of the 4-sided piece marks the material that needs to be
removed to to create the other 4 facets, which are at 45 degrees to the
surfaces of the original 4-sided piece. Mind you, I haven't tried it. This
is one of those things where a simple illustration is far easier to grasp
than a verbal description.
Bill in MN
lincolnr@...writes:
<< THere is a drawing of this gadget in one of the Payson instant boat
books. No time to explain it now. I suspect it's on Michalak's site
also. >>
I'm not sure if this is what you have in mind, but I've seen an illustration
of a simple device for this purpose somewhere. It consisted of a short length
of planed lumber, dimensions not being critical, somewhat wider than the
4-sided piece to be marked. Near each end a dowel was installed
perpendicular to the flat plane and again at a spacing somewhat greater than
the width of the 4-sided piece. Two holes were drilled between the dowels,
spaced to divide the distance between the dowels into equal thirds. Pencils
were push-fitted into these two holes with the leads protruding beyond the
bottom of the length of lumber. In use, the guage was placed on top of the
4-sided piece and rotated so that the two dowels were brought into contact
with the sides of the piece. The rotation does not affect the relative
spacing of the dowels and pencils, and the guage can be rotated as necessary
on a tapered piece to maintain the relative spacing as the width of the
4-sided piece decreases or increases. The guage thus leaves two pencil marks
on each side of the 4-sided piece. The space between them delineating one
facet of the 8-sided spar on each face. The space between the marks on
adjoining faces of the 4-sided piece marks the material that needs to be
removed to to create the other 4 facets, which are at 45 degrees to the
surfaces of the original 4-sided piece. Mind you, I haven't tried it. This
is one of those things where a simple illustration is far easier to grasp
than a verbal description.
Bill in MN