Sweet Pea

On Fri, Feb 5, 2010 at 6:56 AM, troy.kinserfarm
<troy.kinserfarm@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> Bruce,
>
> I love that boat in that duckworks article. I have the sweet pea plans, but i like the lapstrake look. Can you tell more about that other boat you built? I down loaded hull.exe but no so sure about how to work it well enough to get it to layout the strakes. Lots of numbers and stuff in that program that I have no idea about. Any suggestions?
>
> troy

I have built about a dozen full size Bolger boats, mostly small ones.
I have built about a hundred paper models of mostly Bolger boats.
And, I have build several hundred computer models of boats, mostly
Bolger.

I strongly prefer to use Free!Ship (version 2.6) which is a 'free'
boat modeling program which is more powerful and versatile that
Hulls.exe.

It has a pretty steep learning curve, but once you get the hang of it,
it is possible to churn out fully developed strakes for a small boat
in just a couple hours. There are a few Free!Ship tutorials online,
take a look at the Free!Ship Yahoo discussion group

Freeship_HTandT_Group
What kind of formats can Freeship output the strakes in? DIY CNC
routers are getting relatively cheap; that plus computer-lofted
strakes could be a potent way to make a serviceable and pretty boat in
v. short order.

-p

On Mon, Feb 1, 2010 at 9:37 AM, Bruce Hallman <hallman@...> wrote:
>> I have forgotten. Did you use Freeship to develop the expanded strakes?
>
> For that boat I used hull.exe, though if I were to do it again I would
> be using Free!ship (version 2.6) to do the "lofting" of the expanded
> strakes.  I have practiced, (doing it perhaps a hundred times now
> mostly for paper models), and can go from start to finish lofting
> strakes like this in about two hours.
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!!  Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
Bruce,

I love that boat in that duckworks article. I have the sweet pea plans, but i like the lapstrake look. Can you tell more about that other boat you built? I down loaded hull.exe but no so sure about how to work it well enough to get it to layout the strakes. Lots of numbers and stuff in that program that I have no idea about. Any suggestions?

troy
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <hallman@...> wrote:
>
> On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 10:46 PM, goneclamming <fat58chance@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Good point Bruce, When we go out in the big water we pair up, wear pfd's, and carry radios - and stay out of the breakers. The important thing is not to come out of the boat. I don't think it would be possible to eskimo roll a peapod. I'm not familiar with the cartoon 5 double ender. Is it in one of Phil's books?
>
>
> It comes from an old issue of Small Boat Journal magazine, back when
> PCB was doing the 'cartoon' series of boats. This was numbered
> "Cartoon 5" also titled "Ultra-light rowing boat for home builders",
> though confusingly, there were two cartoon designs sharing that
> number, the other being the canal cruiser. I recall that this rowboat
> was also rewritten in a PCB book, but I don't remember well.
>
> Here is the duckworks article about my Cartoon 5 rowboat build...
>
>http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/05/projects/lapstreak/index.cfm
>
> That is from a couple years back, and since then I have added a layer
> of exterior cloth and fiberglass and repainted her blue. She still is
> simply an excellent rowboat.
>
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/hallman/478513712/
>
Gloucester Paints --- if they're still in business

- Peter McCorison

Mark Albanese wrote:
> I'm looking for that small, may even be family owned, east coast,
> paint manufacturer with a reputation for great oil paint in perfect
> marine colors. Not Sterling apparently, nor Geoffrey's - it's just on
> the tip of the tongue...
>
> Any ideas, please?
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

You may be thinking of Kirby’s.  I am currently painting a 17 ft ketch (Storm 17 by Swallow Boats in the UK ) with Kirby’s.  It covers well, spreads easily and smoothly, and sands well. There may be other paints which are as good, but Kirby’s is the best I’ve found.

I recommend it.

 

JohnT

From:bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto: bolger@yahoogroups.com ]On Behalf OfMark Albanese
Sent:Wednesday, February 03, 2010 5:30 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:[bolger] Classic Boat Paint

 

 

I'm looking for that small, may even be family owned, east coast,
paint manufacturer with a reputation for great oil paint in perfect
marine colors. Not Sterling apparently, nor Geoffrey's - it's just on
the tip of the tongue...

Any ideas, please?

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.733 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2666 - Release Date: 02/03/10 14:35:00

George Kirby.
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent:Wednesday, February 03, 2010 5:29 PM
Subject:[bolger] Classic Boat Paint

 

I'm looking for that small, may even be family owned, east coast,
paint manufacturer with a reputation for great oil paint in perfect
marine colors. Not Sterling apparently, nor Geoffrey's - it's just on
the tip of the tongue...

Any ideas, please?

I'm looking for that small, may even be family owned, east coast,
paint manufacturer with a reputation for great oil paint in perfect
marine colors. Not Sterling apparently, nor Geoffrey's - it's just on
the tip of the tongue...

Any ideas, please?
> I have forgotten. Did you use Freeship to develop the expanded strakes?

For that boat I used hull.exe, though if I were to do it again I would
be using Free!ship (version 2.6) to do the "lofting" of the expanded
strakes. I have practiced, (doing it perhaps a hundred times now
mostly for paper models), and can go from start to finish lofting
strakes like this in about two hours.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <hallman@...> wrote:
>
> IF (and only if) you are tolerant of imperfections, lapstrake can be a
> very fast construction method.... ...But with a lap strake, missing by 2" just
> means that you lap the joint a bit more or less and grind or fill with
> thickened epoxy 'til it fits.


When I was a young child, my Dad had a Lyman 18' and when I was a teenager he had a 16' Lyman. Both stick in my mind as very handsome boats, with much character.

Really interesting Bruce. Your lapstrake boat also has an appearance of age which, along with the imperfections you describe, would seem to add to the 'character' of the boat.

I have forgotten. Did you use Freeship to develope the expanded strakes?

Don Schultz
On Sat, Jan 30, 2010 at 9:26 AM, eric14850 <eric14850@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> Turning out a beautiful lapstrake boat in 44 hours...
> Eric


That is an interesting thing I learned. Actually, if you look close
my lapstrake, it has plenty of deviations, where planks don't align
perfectly, asymmetry and imperfectness . But, the lapstrake method is
very tolerant of imperfections. The laps, lap. And, laps are
forgiving.

IF (and only if) you are tolerant of imperfections, lapstrake can be a
very fast construction method. Add to that, with the human eye, it is
relatively hard to see deviations from "correct" alignment with curved
shapes, actually harder to see than with a hard chine 'square' shape.
Square shapes actually are less tolerant of imperfection. Several of
the strakes on my Cartoon 5 build are up to two inches off from
"correct". If it were a square boat like a Teal, missing alignment by
2" would be a huge problem. But with a lap strake, missing by 2" just
means that you lap the joint a bit more or less and grind or fill with
thickened epoxy 'til it fits. That said, if you have a tight
tolerance requirement, lapstraking can take much longer, because there
are simply more pieces needing accurate fitting.
Bruce you are impressively skillful, fast, and productive as a boat builder. And somehow you also find time to use your boats. I am impressed! Turning out a beautiful lapstrake boat in 44 hours... WOW! I am in awe.
Eric


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <hallman@...> wrote:
>
> On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 10:46 PM, goneclamming <fat58chance@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Good point Bruce, When we go out in the big water we pair up, wear pfd's, and carry radios - and stay out of the breakers. The important thing is not to come out of the boat. I don't think it would be possible to eskimo roll a peapod. I'm not familiar with the cartoon 5 double ender. Is it in one of Phil's books?
>
>
> It comes from an old issue of Small Boat Journal magazine, back when
> PCB was doing the 'cartoon' series of boats. This was numbered
> "Cartoon 5" also titled "Ultra-light rowing boat for home builders",
> though confusingly, there were two cartoon designs sharing that
> number, the other being the canal cruiser. I recall that this rowboat
> was also rewritten in a PCB book, but I don't remember well.
>
> Here is the duckworks article about my Cartoon 5 rowboat build...
>
>http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/05/projects/lapstreak/index.cfm
>
> That is from a couple years back, and since then I have added a layer
> of exterior cloth and fiberglass and repainted her blue. She still is
> simply an excellent rowboat.
>
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/hallman/478513712/
>
On Fri, Jan 29, 2010 at 10:46 PM, goneclamming <fat58chance@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> Good point Bruce, When we go out in the big water we pair up, wear pfd's, and carry radios - and stay out of the breakers. The important thing is not to come out of the boat. I don't think it would be possible to eskimo roll a peapod. I'm not familiar with the cartoon 5 double ender. Is it in one of Phil's books?


It comes from an old issue of Small Boat Journal magazine, back when
PCB was doing the 'cartoon' series of boats. This was numbered
"Cartoon 5" also titled "Ultra-light rowing boat for home builders",
though confusingly, there were two cartoon designs sharing that
number, the other being the canal cruiser. I recall that this rowboat
was also rewritten in a PCB book, but I don't remember well.

Here is the duckworks article about my Cartoon 5 rowboat build...

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/05/projects/lapstreak/index.cfm

That is from a couple years back, and since then I have added a layer
of exterior cloth and fiberglass and repainted her blue. She still is
simply an excellent rowboat.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/hallman/478513712/

Tender is a relative term. Sweet Pea is not as stable as a flat bottomed skiff nor as tender as a Light Dory. It will roll, but the internal deck and open slot tend to keep the crew weight in the center of the boat and I was comfortable standing and casting in the center. My two small sons learned to row in her and my wife (who is highly sensitive to “tipping”) was comfortable as a passenger.

 

If it matters, round bottomed boats are generally considered to be more seaworthy that flat bottomed boats because they will roll and recover from waves. In order to maximize speed, there are a number of row boat plans around which have a very narrow, very round waterline. They go fast and require little effort to move, but they are tiddly as all get out and require great care while boarding or getting out. Sweet Pea is not on this category and is a much more “wholesome” boat which can be used for a variety of activities (including sailing, though upwind performance is very modest).

 

Again, if it matters, I think the “slipping keel” is more trouble than it is worth.  I built mine with a fixed keel which probably degraded rowing and wasn’t enough for sailing.  If I were to do it again, I think I would build the boat exclusively as a row boat and add a small skeg for directional control.  If I wanted to sail, I would add the inboard rudder behind a skeg and an offcenter dagger board. My Sweet pea was a very good rowboat and a mediocre sail boat (I had the sprit rig). I ultimately sold it to a fellow who had a wild and wonderful downwind ride in Charleston Harbor in what he claimed were 20 plus winds. I don’t think I would have enjoyed it at the time, but I would probably remember it fondly.

 

JohnT

 

From:bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Offootstepfollower64
Sent:Saturday, January 30, 2010 9:09 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:[bolger] Re: Sweet Pea

 

 

I aminterested in the sweet pea, but wonder about Dave's comment that she is a little tender. In Payson's recent book he said she was designed for him to use in stand up rowing (which appeals to me from a number of angles). Those that have a sweet pea, what do you think about this possible use?

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups. com, "goneclamming" <fat58chance@ ...> wrote:

>
>
>
> Interesting Graeme,
> I think those old dorymen were made of tougher stuff than we are these
days. I can't imagine not having a hot shower to come back to at the end of the day....by the way, the initial stability of Sweet Pea is relatively low, probably due to the rounded multichine hull shape. That said, it doesn't feel unsafe if you stand up, but it is tender.
> Dave
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups. com,
"graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@ > wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > a rock in the stern to help get more of the keel in the water. I
notice she tracks better downwind with a passenger in the stern.
> >
> > I read this is how dory men of old survived a really big blow. Not by
having a rock, mind you, but by hunkering down jammed right back in the stern. They first might have jettisoned their fishing gear and any catch. This sunk the stern, markedly increasing stability, and the raised bow caught the wind keeping the boat aligned correctly for the wild downwind ride through the following seas. When the blow was over they may have had a very long row back to the mother ship, or may even have had to deal with being thoroughly lost, but they still were in the boat, afloat and alive. An example of the increase in stability is given in the SB Light Dory V chapter where PCB mentions how much more stable that tender is when standing in the bow prior to alighting rather than standing amidships.
> >
> > Graeme
> >
>

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.733 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2657 - Release Date: 01/30/10 02:35:00

I aminterested in the sweet pea, but wonder about Dave's comment that she is a little tender. In Payson's recent book he said she was designed for him to use in stand up rowing (which appeals to me from a number of angles). Those that have a sweet pea, what do you think about this possible use?

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "goneclamming" <fat58chance@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> Interesting Graeme,
> I think those old dorymen were made of tougher stuff than we are these days. I can't imagine not having a hot shower to come back to at the end of the day....by the way, the initial stability of Sweet Pea is relatively low, probably due to the rounded multichine hull shape. That said, it doesn't feel unsafe if you stand up, but it is tender.
> Dave
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > a rock in the stern to help get more of the keel in the water. I notice she tracks better downwind with a passenger in the stern.
> >
> > I read this is how dory men of old survived a really big blow. Not by having a rock, mind you, but by hunkering down jammed right back in the stern. They first might have jettisoned their fishing gear and any catch. This sunk the stern, markedly increasing stability, and the raised bow caught the wind keeping the boat aligned correctly for the wild downwind ride through the following seas. When the blow was over they may have had a very long row back to the mother ship, or may even have had to deal with being thoroughly lost, but they still were in the boat, afloat and alive. An example of the increase in stability is given in the SB Light Dory V chapter where PCB mentions how much more stable that tender is when standing in the bow prior to alighting rather than standing amidships.
> >
> > Graeme
> >
>
Good point Bruce, When we go out in the big water we pair up, wear pfd's, and carry radios - and stay out of the breakers. The important thing is not to come out of the boat. I don't think it would be possible to eskimo roll a peapod. I'm not familiar with the cartoon 5 double ender. Is it in one of Phil's books?

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <hallman@...> wrote:
>
> > I love to hold her just beyond big breaking rollers.
>
> This reminds me of a story from a friend after buying a 4 wheel drive
> truck. He said: "I don't get stuck in the mud any less often now, I
> just now get stuck in deeper mud."
>
> It is great to hear about the capabilities of Sweat Pea, which surely
> is a highly capable boat! (I have a similar story to tell about the
> Cartoon 5 double ender which I own.) I just fear that playing with
> the big ocean swells, and the breaking surf, while no doubt being
> exhilarating, might end up getting you hurt.
>
Interesting Graeme,
I think those old dorymen were made of tougher stuff than we are these days. I can't imagine not having a hot shower to come back to at the end of the day....by the way, the initial stability of Sweet Pea is relatively low, probably due to the rounded multichine hull shape. That said, it doesn't feel unsafe if you stand up, but it is tender.
Dave

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > a rock in the stern to help get more of the keel in the water. I notice she tracks better downwind with a passenger in the stern.
>
> I read this is how dory men of old survived a really big blow. Not by having a rock, mind you, but by hunkering down jammed right back in the stern. They first might have jettisoned their fishing gear and any catch. This sunk the stern, markedly increasing stability, and the raised bow caught the wind keeping the boat aligned correctly for the wild downwind ride through the following seas. When the blow was over they may have had a very long row back to the mother ship, or may even have had to deal with being thoroughly lost, but they still were in the boat, afloat and alive. An example of the increase in stability is given in the SB Light Dory V chapter where PCB mentions how much more stable that tender is when standing in the bow prior to alighting rather than standing amidships.
>
> Graeme
>
Interesting Graeme,
I think those old dorymen were made of tougher stuff than we are these days. I can't imagine not having a hot shower to come back to at the end of the day....by the way, the initial stability of Sweet Pea is relatively low, probably due to the rounded multichine hull shape. That said, it doesn't feel unsafe if you stand up, but it is tender.
Dave

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > a rock in the stern to help get more of the keel in the water. I notice she tracks better downwind with a passenger in the stern.
>
> I read this is how dory men of old survived a really big blow. Not by having a rock, mind you, but by hunkering down jammed right back in the stern. They first might have jettisoned their fishing gear and any catch. This sunk the stern, markedly increasing stability, and the raised bow caught the wind keeping the boat aligned correctly for the wild downwind ride through the following seas. When the blow was over they may have had a very long row back to the mother ship, or may even have had to deal with being thoroughly lost, but they still were in the boat, afloat and alive. An example of the increase in stability is given in the SB Light Dory V chapter where PCB mentions how much more stable that tender is when standing in the bow prior to alighting rather than standing amidships.
>
> Graeme
>
I made 7-1/2 foot oars with fairly narrow blades that seem to work OK except that they don't have a lot of power. I borrowed my friend's Shaw & Tenney 8' oars that have wider blades and the increased "bite" on the water is noticeable. I traced his so I can duplicate a pair this winter from some spruce scraps. I also intend to leave the looms square above the leathers to add mass inboard of the rowlocks.
I know what you mean playing in the swells. It's a blast.

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, GBroadlick@... wrote:
>
> I have 8 foot oars for mine. I put big zinks that you would use for a motor shaft near the handhold to balance them. I love to hold her just beyond big breaking rollers. The slipping keel will make her track better in the wind. I doubled the keel to 6 inches so she is a little more work to row.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: goneclamming <fat58chance@...>
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tue, Jan 26, 2010 9:28 pm
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Sweet Pea
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Dave,
> I keep the boat on a mooring in Casco Bay Maine. She really rows like a dream. I have been out rowing with a friend who owns an original Jimmy Steele cedar on oak peapod. My Sweet Pea has less volume, weighs about the same, and is faster if you really want to race. We went out after a northeaster blew through this past September and we had a blast rowing in some big swells. A Coast Guard 40'er stopped us and asked if we were heading in. I can't remember where I read this description about a boat but it is fitting for Sweet Pea; this is one of those boats can withstand rougher water than you can. She tracks great dead into the wind and with the wind on the beam. With the wind on the quarter or dead astern you need frequent corrective strokes but she flies downwind. My friend with the peapod says the same is true of his boat. He often puts a rock in the stern to help get more of the keel in the water. I notice she tracks better downwind with a passenger in the stern. I guess t he longest row I went on was about 8 miles. I would recommend this for anyone looking for a safe, fast rowboat to explore coastal waters. Oh - and she has no problem covering ground against a couple of knots of current, especially if the wind is with you. I'll add a photo of the Pride of Baltimore that visited Portland harbor last summer.Dave
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Gentry" <alias1719@> wrote:
> >
> > That looks great - nice job!
> > Sooo, tell us more! Where and how have you been using her? How does she row? Can you compare her to other boats you may have rowed? How does she handle in waves/wind? Any vices or issues? Inquiring minds want to know!
> > Thanks!
> >
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "goneclamming" <fat58chance@> wrote:
> > >
> > > For those interested, I just posted several photos of a rowing version of Sweet Pea I built and used extensively last year. It is a great little rowboat. Dave
> > >
> >
>
I made 7-1/2 foot oars with fairly narrow blades that seem to work OK except that they don't have a lot of power. I borrowed my friend's Shaw & Tenney 8' oars that have wider blades and the increased "bite" on the water is noticeable. I traced his so I can duplicate a pair this winter from some spruce scraps. I also intend to leave the looms square above the leathers to add mass inboard of the rowlocks.
I know what you mean playing in the swells. It's a blast.

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, GBroadlick@... wrote:
>
> I have 8 foot oars for mine. I put big zinks that you would use for a motor shaft near the handhold to balance them. I love to hold her just beyond big breaking rollers. The slipping keel will make her track better in the wind. I doubled the keel to 6 inches so she is a little more work to row.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: goneclamming <fat58chance@...>
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tue, Jan 26, 2010 9:28 pm
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Sweet Pea
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Dave,
> I keep the boat on a mooring in Casco Bay Maine. She really rows like a dream. I have been out rowing with a friend who owns an original Jimmy Steele cedar on oak peapod. My Sweet Pea has less volume, weighs about the same, and is faster if you really want to race. We went out after a northeaster blew through this past September and we had a blast rowing in some big swells. A Coast Guard 40'er stopped us and asked if we were heading in. I can't remember where I read this description about a boat but it is fitting for Sweet Pea; this is one of those boats can withstand rougher water than you can. She tracks great dead into the wind and with the wind on the beam. With the wind on the quarter or dead astern you need frequent corrective strokes but she flies downwind. My friend with the peapod says the same is true of his boat. He often puts a rock in the stern to help get more of the keel in the water. I notice she tracks better downwind with a passenger in the stern. I guess t he longest row I went on was about 8 miles. I would recommend this for anyone looking for a safe, fast rowboat to explore coastal waters. Oh - and she has no problem covering ground against a couple of knots of current, especially if the wind is with you. I'll add a photo of the Pride of Baltimore that visited Portland harbor last summer.Dave
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Gentry" <alias1719@> wrote:
> >
> > That looks great - nice job!
> > Sooo, tell us more! Where and how have you been using her? How does she row? Can you compare her to other boats you may have rowed? How does she handle in waves/wind? Any vices or issues? Inquiring minds want to know!
> > Thanks!
> >
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "goneclamming" <fat58chance@> wrote:
> > >
> > > For those interested, I just posted several photos of a rowing version of Sweet Pea I built and used extensively last year. It is a great little rowboat. Dave
> > >
> >
>
Thanks Dave,
I attached a small keel to give her a little directional stability. It started as a 1-1/2" square piece of spruce that I tapered toward the ends both in width and depth prior to attaching it. At the extreme ends it is sided about 3/4" and about 1" in depth. I'm not sure if it was really necessary for tracking. The paint scheme is Petit Vivid white on the bottom, because I keep her on a mooring, with Epiphanes light blue enamel on the topsides with an Interlux flag blue bootstripe. The interior is Epipanes buff.
Cheers, Dave

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Gentry" <alias1719@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Dave
> Thanks for the report! I've always wondered how well they rowed w/o the keel. Err, I didn't see one on yours, so I'm just assuming.
>
> Peapods are supposed to be great sea boats, and it's nice to hear that SweetPea is as well.
> I do love your paint job!
>
> Enjoy!
> Dave Gentry
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "goneclamming" <fat58chance@> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Dave,
> > I keep the boat on a mooring in Casco Bay Maine. She really rows like a dream. I have been out rowing with a friend who owns an original Jimmy Steele cedar on oak peapod. My Sweet Pea has less volume, weighs about the same, and is faster if you really want to race. We went out after a northeaster blew through this past September and we had a blast rowing in some big swells. A Coast Guard 40'er stopped us and asked if we were heading in. I can't remember where I read this description about a boat but it is fitting for Sweet Pea; this is one of those boats can withstand rougher water than you can. She tracks great dead into the wind and with the wind on the beam. With the wind on the quarter or dead astern you need frequent corrective strokes but she flies downwind. My friend with the peapod says the same is true of his boat. He often puts a rock in the stern to help get more of the keel in the water. I notice she tracks better downwind with a passenger in the stern. I guess the longest row I went on was about 8 miles. I would recommend this for anyone looking for a safe, fast rowboat to explore coastal waters. Oh - and she has no problem covering ground against a couple of knots of current, especially if the wind is with you. I'll add a photo of the Pride of Baltimore that visited Portland harbor last summer.Dave
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Gentry" <alias1719@> wrote:
> > >
> > > That looks great - nice job!
> > > Sooo, tell us more! Where and how have you been using her? How does she row? Can you compare her to other boats you may have rowed? How does she handle in waves/wind? Any vices or issues? Inquiring minds want to know!
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > >
> > > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "goneclamming" <fat58chance@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > For those interested, I just posted several photos of a rowing version of Sweet Pea I built and used extensively last year. It is a great little rowboat. Dave
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Hey Dave
Thanks for the report! I've always wondered how well they rowed w/o the keel. Err, I didn't see one on yours, so I'm just assuming.

Peapods are supposed to be great sea boats, and it's nice to hear that SweetPea is as well.
I do love your paint job!

Enjoy!
Dave Gentry

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "goneclamming" <fat58chance@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Dave,
> I keep the boat on a mooring in Casco Bay Maine. She really rows like a dream. I have been out rowing with a friend who owns an original Jimmy Steele cedar on oak peapod. My Sweet Pea has less volume, weighs about the same, and is faster if you really want to race. We went out after a northeaster blew through this past September and we had a blast rowing in some big swells. A Coast Guard 40'er stopped us and asked if we were heading in. I can't remember where I read this description about a boat but it is fitting for Sweet Pea; this is one of those boats can withstand rougher water than you can. She tracks great dead into the wind and with the wind on the beam. With the wind on the quarter or dead astern you need frequent corrective strokes but she flies downwind. My friend with the peapod says the same is true of his boat. He often puts a rock in the stern to help get more of the keel in the water. I notice she tracks better downwind with a passenger in the stern. I guess the longest row I went on was about 8 miles. I would recommend this for anyone looking for a safe, fast rowboat to explore coastal waters. Oh - and she has no problem covering ground against a couple of knots of current, especially if the wind is with you. I'll add a photo of the Pride of Baltimore that visited Portland harbor last summer.Dave
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Gentry" <alias1719@> wrote:
> >
> > That looks great - nice job!
> > Sooo, tell us more! Where and how have you been using her? How does she row? Can you compare her to other boats you may have rowed? How does she handle in waves/wind? Any vices or issues? Inquiring minds want to know!
> > Thanks!
> >
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "goneclamming" <fat58chance@> wrote:
> > >
> > > For those interested, I just posted several photos of a rowing version of Sweet Pea I built and used extensively last year. It is a great little rowboat. Dave
> > >
> >
>
> I love to hold her just beyond big breaking rollers.

This reminds me of a story from a friend after buying a 4 wheel drive
truck. He said: "I don't get stuck in the mud any less often now, I
just now get stuck in deeper mud."

It is great to hear about the capabilities of Sweat Pea, which surely
is a highly capable boat! (I have a similar story to tell about the
Cartoon 5 double ender which I own.) I just fear that playing with
the big ocean swells, and the breaking surf, while no doubt being
exhilarating, might end up getting you hurt.
> a rock in the stern to help get more of the keel in the water. I notice she tracks better downwind with a passenger in the stern.

I read this is how dory men of old survived a really big blow. Not by having a rock, mind you, but by hunkering down jammed right back in the stern. They first might have jettisoned their fishing gear and any catch. This sunk the stern, markedly increasing stability, and the raised bow caught the wind keeping the boat aligned correctly for the wild downwind ride through the following seas. When the blow was over they may have had a very long row back to the mother ship, or may even have had to deal with being thoroughly lost, but they still were in the boat, afloat and alive. An example of the increase in stability is given in the SB Light Dory V chapter where PCB mentions how much more stable that tender is when standing in the bow prior to alighting rather than standing amidships.

Graeme
I have 8 foot oars for mine. I put big zinks that you would use for a motor shaft near the handhold to balance them. I love to hold her just beyond big breaking rollers. The slipping keel will make her track better in the wind. I doubled the keel to 6 inches so she is a little more work to row.



-----Original Message-----
From: goneclamming <fat58chance@...>
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, Jan 26, 2010 9:28 pm
Subject: [bolger] Re: Sweet Pea

 


Hi Dave,
I keep the boat on a mooring in Casco Bay Maine. She really rows like a dream. I have been out rowing with a friend who owns an original Jimmy Steele cedar on oak peapod. My Sweet Pea has less volume, weighs about the same, and is faster if you really want to race. We went out after a northeaster blew through this past September and we had a blast rowing in some big swells. A Coast Guard 40'er stopped us and asked if we were heading in. I can't remember where I read this description about a boat but it is fitting for Sweet Pea; this is one of those boats can withstand rougher water than you can. She tracks great dead into the wind and with the wind on the beam. With the wind on the quarter or dead astern you need frequent corrective strokes but she flies downwind. My friend with the peapod says the same is true of his boat. He often puts a rock in the stern to help get more of the keel in the water. I notice she tracks better downwind with a passenger in the stern. I guess t he longest row I went on was about 8 miles. I would recommend this for anyone looking for a safe, fast rowboat to explore coastal waters. Oh - and she has no problem covering ground against a couple of knots of current, especially if the wind is with you. I'll add a photo of the Pride of Baltimore that visited Portland harbor last summer.Dave

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups. com, "Dave Gentry" <alias1719@. ..> wrote:
>
> That looks great - nice job!
> Sooo, tell us more! Where and how have you been using her? How does she row? Can you compare her to other boats you may have rowed? How does she handle in waves/wind? Any vices or issues? Inquiring minds want to know!
> Thanks!
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups. com, "goneclamming" <fat58chance@ > wrote:
> >
> > For those interested, I just posted several photos of a rowing version of Sweet Pea I built and used extensively last year. It is a great little rowboat. Dave
> >
>

Hi Dave,
I keep the boat on a mooring in Casco Bay Maine. She really rows like a dream. I have been out rowing with a friend who owns an original Jimmy Steele cedar on oak peapod. My Sweet Pea has less volume, weighs about the same, and is faster if you really want to race. We went out after a northeaster blew through this past September and we had a blast rowing in some big swells. A Coast Guard 40'er stopped us and asked if we were heading in. I can't remember where I read this description about a boat but it is fitting for Sweet Pea; this is one of those boats can withstand rougher water than you can. She tracks great dead into the wind and with the wind on the beam. With the wind on the quarter or dead astern you need frequent corrective strokes but she flies downwind. My friend with the peapod says the same is true of his boat. He often puts a rock in the stern to help get more of the keel in the water. I notice she tracks better downwind with a passenger in the stern. I guess the longest row I went on was about 8 miles. I would recommend this for anyone looking for a safe, fast rowboat to explore coastal waters. Oh - and she has no problem covering ground against a couple of knots of current, especially if the wind is with you. I'll add a photo of the Pride of Baltimore that visited Portland harbor last summer.Dave

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Dave Gentry" <alias1719@...> wrote:
>
> That looks great - nice job!
> Sooo, tell us more! Where and how have you been using her? How does she row? Can you compare her to other boats you may have rowed? How does she handle in waves/wind? Any vices or issues? Inquiring minds want to know!
> Thanks!
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "goneclamming" <fat58chance@> wrote:
> >
> > For those interested, I just posted several photos of a rowing version of Sweet Pea I built and used extensively last year. It is a great little rowboat. Dave
> >
>
That looks great - nice job!
Sooo, tell us more! Where and how have you been using her? How does she row? Can you compare her to other boats you may have rowed? How does she handle in waves/wind? Any vices or issues? Inquiring minds want to know!
Thanks!


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "goneclamming" <fat58chance@...> wrote:
>
> For those interested, I just posted several photos of a rowing version of Sweet Pea I built and used extensively last year. It is a great little rowboat. Dave
>
Beautiful boat and very sweet lines. Congratulations.
Andrew.

From:goneclamming <fat58chance@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent:Sun, 24 January, 2010 1:23:08 PM
Subject:[bolger] Sweet Pea

 

For those interested, I just posted several photos of a rowing version of Sweet Pea I built and used extensively last year. It is a great little rowboat. Dave


Need mail bonding? Bring all your contacts to Yahoo!Xtra withTrueSwitch
For those interested, I just posted several photos of a rowing version of Sweet Pea I built and used extensively last year. It is a great little rowboat. Dave
I built a sweat pea 14 years ago. I built the slipping keel per the
plans (added an inch depth) but used the sail rig from Oughtred's
john dory. The rig is a gunter rig 76 sq ft. The spars fit in the
boat. We use her as a trailer to get our camping gear to florida. One
of my great pleasure is sailing Boca Grande Pass while trailing a
lure. I can sail right up on tarpon daisy chaining without disturbing
them. I have crossed charlotte harbor in 20 knot winds fully reefed
surfing the whole way

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, malcolmf <malcolmf@...> wrote:
>
> I thought that I had put some pics up earlier, but, once again, I
am
> wrong. So the photos are now there under 'Sweet Pea'
> This past fall I built a Sweet Pea from articles in Wooden Boat
> Magazine. All I wanted was a rowing boat with some potential for
sail,
> so I built it without Bolger's removable keel. It was finished
late in
> October, rushing in time to beat the 40°F deadline for epoxy. I
put it
> in a local pond, accompanied by a friend in his 17' Old Town
Tripper,
> with 30# thrust trolling motor. Both of us were surprised when I
had to
> periodically wait for him. By GPS I could stay at the 3.5 mph rate
> without much trouble. Above that a wake appeared, showing the hull
> speed thing.
> This is the third stitch and glue boat I have built in three years
in my
> search for a good rowing boat that may be sailed. #1 was the
> South Haven Dory (find it online) which is a near clone of the
Gull, but
> built entirely stitch and glue rather than over Dynamite's frames.
It
> rows great, but I found it too tiddly to be able to fly cast or
land a
> legal striped bass. #2 came from Sucher's book, The Flat Bottom
Boat,
> and is very similar to the Gull, but six inches wider on the bottom
and
> without Bolger's beautiful sheerline. This is a very sweet boat -
and I
> could stand and fly cast and (were I so lucky) could land a
striper.
> Still it lacked the ability to carry a sail, hence the Sweet Pea.
This
> summer I will be able to find out what I can do with it. I believe
that
> a small sprit sail, like Dynamite's 40'ish, ought to work. I hate
to
> put a center board in, and will experiment with lee boards. Or then
I
> may just row to windward and sail back, boardless.
> Calm Seas & A Prosperous Voyage
> Malcolm
>
I thought that I had put some pics up earlier, but, once again, I am
wrong. So the photos are now there under 'Sweet Pea'
This past fall I built a Sweet Pea from articles in Wooden Boat
Magazine. All I wanted was a rowing boat with some potential for sail,
so I built it without Bolger's removable keel. It was finished late in
October, rushing in time to beat the 40°F deadline for epoxy. I put it
in a local pond, accompanied by a friend in his 17' Old Town Tripper,
with 30# thrust trolling motor. Both of us were surprised when I had to
periodically wait for him. By GPS I could stay at the 3.5 mph rate
without much trouble. Above that a wake appeared, showing the hull
speed thing.
This is the third stitch and glue boat I have built in three years in my
search for a good rowing boat that may be sailed. #1 was the
South Haven Dory (find it online) which is a near clone of the Gull, but
built entirely stitch and glue rather than over Dynamite's frames. It
rows great, but I found it too tiddly to be able to fly cast or land a
legal striped bass. #2 came from Sucher's book, The Flat Bottom Boat,
and is very similar to the Gull, but six inches wider on the bottom and
without Bolger's beautiful sheerline. This is a very sweet boat - and I
could stand and fly cast and (were I so lucky) could land a striper.
Still it lacked the ability to carry a sail, hence the Sweet Pea. This
summer I will be able to find out what I can do with it. I believe that
a small sprit sail, like Dynamite's 40'ish, ought to work. I hate to
put a center board in, and will experiment with lee boards. Or then I
may just row to windward and sail back, boardless.
Calm Seas & A Prosperous Voyage
Malcolm
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Ron Magen" <quahaug@...> wrote:

Ron,

I think John hit it pretty much on the head. For me, some parts of
the book made for interesting reading, but depending on what other
books you have available, the new one may or may not be worth
purchasing. The sections that give detailed building instructions
appear to be very similar to previous publications. The SweetPea was
written up in WoodenBoat magazine and the Car Topper was written up
in another WoodenBoat book, something like "10 Boats You Can Build."
I was a bit disappointed that some of the write-ups were based only
on evaluation of a scale model. In his earlier books, Mr. Payson
stressed that he had built all of the plans full size and he was able
to comment on minor problems with the plans, and also on performance
of the boat. Still, I think he does provide some useful insight into
the various designs.

For those who have built boats before or if you have already read the
other Instant Boat books, the basic instructions on tools, glue, etc
may not be that valuable. But, if you are new to this activity,
there is some good information included.

For me, the book was worth purchasing primarily because it includes
some interesting plans. I had a particular interest in the Catfish
and wanted to get a better feel for the details of the design.
Relative to what some designers charge for study plans, it seems like
a reasonable price if you are interested in these specific boats.

Sorry, I don't have the book with me right now, so I cannot give a
chapter by chapter break-down or complete list of the plans that are
included.

Rob





>
> > 5b. Re: Sweet Pea
> > Posted by: "Rob Mouradian" r_mouradian@...
> > SNIP
> From the write-up in Payson's new book, . . .SNIP
>
> Rob,
> From your comment . . . I presume you have a copy of the *new* book.
> While I have seen adverts for it, I can't find a copy at
my 'FAVORITE'
> outlet . . . the library. Nor, it seems, at the local 'Big Chain
> Sellers'.
>
> While I'm not adverse to buying a USEFUL book {my office is
literally a
> private library}, I've been 'burned' before. That is where a 'new'
book
> is basically a gathering of specifics from previous pubs with a few
> added notes & paragraphs. Also, I've read 'comments from readers'
that
> this is, in fact, the case. Either way I like to form MY OWN
opinion.
> Therefore, may I impose on you to send a 'list of Chapters'
{or 'Index
> of Boats' if this is set-up like Dynamite's previous books}, plus
your
> own 'Review'.
>
> Regards & Thanks,
> Ron Magen
> Backyard Boatshop
>
Hi Ron,

...snip...
> While I'm not adverse to buying a USEFUL book {my office is
literally a
> private library}, I've been 'burned' before. That is where a 'new'
book
> is basically a gathering of specifics from previous pubs with a few
> added notes & paragraphs. Also, I've read 'comments from readers'
that
> this is, in fact, the case. Either way I like to form MY OWN opinion.
...snip...

I don't have a list of chapters at hand, but since I have a copy of
the book I'll tell you what I think.

The book is a rehash of older material in many areas. The sections on
tools, materials, and model buidling all seem to be older writings, or
at least rehash the same material in his other books. The tools in
the photos appear to be decades old. The chapter on the 18' Clam
Skiff is a verbatim reproduction of the original article that Payson
published in some periodical many years ago, and it obviously wasn't
even re-read by an editor to make it fit in the context of the book.
I believe the chapters on Big Tortoise and Rubens Nymph use photos of
the original smaller versions from his last book. There are a few
other places where the text seems out of context since it came from
earlier work and hasn't been updated. Several of the build sequence
photos show models rather than the full size boats.

However, the book was worth the cost to me simply for the complete
plans for several boats I've considered building and may yet build.
Going from memory, the book includes Cartopper, Payson's Pirogue,
Sweet Pea, Rubens Nymph, 15'-6" Sea Hawk, both the 18' and 15'-6" Clam
Skiffs, 19'-6" Long Light Dory, 18' Diablo Grande, Big Tortoise,
Catfish, and the original Chebacco. I think his Fisherman's Skiff is
in there, too.

One minor peeve is that while I appreciate Payson providing a drawing
with dimensions for prefabricating the side panels of Sea Hawk, he
could easily have noted the location of the permanent frames/bulkheads
on this drawing and saved the trouble of using a ladder frame building
jig for the rest of us. On the other hand, two of the four frames are
easy to locate since the sides are straight at their positions, and
the other two can be pretty accurately located using trigonometry.
Bruce can probably do it in FreeShip! just as fast. Still, it just
seems sloppy to omit this information.

The bottom line is that I'm interested in possibly building Cartopper,
Sea Hawk, and one or both of the Clam Skiffs, so the money was worth
it to me just for the plans. The text is mostly redundant to anyone
who has his previous book or has done much boatbuilding.

Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
The Sweet Pea i built had a sprit sail and the "slipping keel" was permanently attached. It was under canvased for light air and I never had much chance to use it in heavier air. The guy I sold it too used it in Charleston Harbor and reported having a high time in a brisk (probably15mph) breeze which kicked up a significant chop against the tide. He claimed it was ideal for this kind of work. I used mine for rowing on a large lake. The boat has been repainted a couple of times and is still around though not much used now.

I suppose you could use an electric motor in a well, but that seems like a lot of effort and expense when the boat rows so well.

Incidentally, the stitch and glue, drop in seat has held up to a couple of guys who weighed over 240. I used exterior AC fir ply and polyester resin. Now days, everyone seems to think epoxy is the only way to go, but the boat, stored upside down outside, has held up for about 20 years.

Sweet Pea is worth building just because it's so pretty. have fun.

JohnT
----- Original Message -----
From: Loy Seal
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 8:30 AM
Subject: [bolger] Sweet Pea


I am wondering about building Sweet Pea for a sailboat only. I
currently have a Surf and I am tired of sitting on the bottom of the
boat and my arthritic legs need more room. I am looking for a hull
which will let me use the 59 sq. ft. sail I currently have. I am also
thinking that Sweet Pea could carry a battery and trolling motor
rather well, possibly in a (no pun intended) well. The side seats and
room in Sweet Pea look very inviting. I would value your opinions of
this boat. Thank you.






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 5b. Re: Sweet Pea
> Posted by: "Rob Mouradian"r_mouradian@...
> SNIP
From the write-up in Payson's new book, . . .SNIP

Rob,
From your comment . . . I presume you have a copy of the *new* book.
While I have seen adverts for it, I can't find a copy at my 'FAVORITE'
outlet . . . the library. Nor, it seems, at the local 'Big Chain
Sellers'.

While I'm not adverse to buying a USEFUL book {my office is literally a
private library}, I've been 'burned' before. That is where a 'new' book
is basically a gathering of specifics from previous pubs with a few
added notes & paragraphs. Also, I've read 'comments from readers' that
this is, in fact, the case. Either way I like to form MY OWN opinion.
Therefore, may I impose on you to send a 'list of Chapters' {or 'Index
of Boats' if this is set-up like Dynamite's previous books}, plus your
own 'Review'.

Regards & Thanks,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Loy Seal" <loyseal1@...> wrote:
>
> I am wondering about building Sweet Pea for a sailboat only. I
> currently have a Surf and I am tired of sitting on the bottom of the
> boat and my arthritic legs need more room. I am looking for a hull
> which will let me use the 59 sq. ft. sail I currently have. I am
also
> thinking that Sweet Pea could carry a battery and trolling motor
> rather well, possibly in a (no pun intended) well. The side seats
and
> room in Sweet Pea look very inviting. I would value your opinions of
> this boat. Thank you.
>
Loy,

I'll be interested to see what people have to say about this. From
the write-up in Payson's new book, it seems like SweatPea is
primarily a row boat. If you ask the same question over on the
WoodenBoat forum you may get some feedback form others who have built
that design. At one point there were three or four listed in the "My
Wooden Boat" area of the web site.

I like many of the instant boat designs, but my main complaint with
these boats is the lack of a proper seat. I know some people find
sitting on the floor to be fine, but I don't like it for several
reasons. I have considered extending the sides of a simple design
like WindSprint to make room for bench seats, but I'm not confident
that it would work out. Some of the Michalak designs that might also
be considered "instant boats" do include bench seats, but I don't
think he has done anything comparable to SweatPea.
I am wondering about building Sweet Pea for a sailboat only. I
currently have a Surf and I am tired of sitting on the bottom of the
boat and my arthritic legs need more room. I am looking for a hull
which will let me use the 59 sq. ft. sail I currently have. I am also
thinking that Sweet Pea could carry a battery and trolling motor
rather well, possibly in a (no pun intended) well. The side seats and
room in Sweet Pea look very inviting. I would value your opinions of
this boat. Thank you.
Teakdeck@...wrote:
> Sweet Pea sounds like a great boat. I've inserted a few comments or questions
> into your post:...
> (M) I assume this is not an instant boat type of building process. Does it
> call for stations or molds? Was the boat difficult to build or require any
> special tools?

No stations, no molds. There is a "deck" about a foot off of the floor.
There is an 8 ft. x 18 inch "well" in this deck. A bulkhead at either
end supports it and forms an enclosed volume in the ends for flotation.
A central frame supports the side decks. Building is a matter of making
stems, and joining them to end bulkheads, then these assemblies to the
bottom. Central frame is then joined to bottom. Upper sides are
attached. Bilge panels are temporarily attached, marked, cut to fit.
This was my first stitch and glue boat, and it was easier than I
anticipated. The Wooden Boat article was invaluable, as it steps through
the whole process. I built entirely with hand and power tools; no
stationary power tools like a table saw or band saw. There was lots of
creative use of the circular saw. Wished I'd had a block plane, but made
do with a jack plane and Surform tools.
When I started building I assembled most of the pieces in about a week
of part time work, including taping the inside seams, but not taping
outside seams or even coating the hull. Other events conspired to keep
me from continuing work, and the hull sat upside down, on the ground,
exposed the Minnesota weather for 3 years. The luan ply turned almost
black as it weathered, and our teething dog chewed a large chunk out of
the side of it. The side panels warped like lasagna noodles. Leaves
collected under the side decks. Spiders loved it.
Three years later I decided it was time to finish it or trash it.
Against my better judgment, I washed it off, and started by sanding off
the weathered and mildewed wood, patching the hole in the side, and
proceeding with the taping and sheathing. Miraculously the gunwales
pulled the waviness out of the side panels. Some Bondo faired the worst
spots, but all in all it survived the abuse amazingly well. It's
testament to the materials, techniques and design that I could end up
with something that illicits so many nice comments and has been so much
fun after all that.

> Designed for "Dynamite"
> himself, so he could row standing up and ocaisionally sail it.
> (M) Row standing up! So this is a particularly stable design?

Fairly stable; it's not a canoe. The flat bottom and significant flare
make it feel quite secure. Mr. Payson is quite a bit shorter than I am,
so I have to sit down. But my antsy black lab wandering around, even on
the side decks, isn't a problem. And it's stiff enough to carry a bit of
sail, although I'm under canvassed with about 80 sq. ft.

> (M) How does the removeable keel work? Is it a bolt on kind of thing? Sound
> interesting.

The keel has a tongue on either end that fits up into a well. The wells
pierce the end decks, next to the bulkheads. A wedge through a hole in
the tongue secures it.
The keel has been great for the thin water we usually frequent. It puts
lots of lateral plane down there when a board with a better aspect ratio
would be mostly retracted. Of course it doesn't point that well, but it
does have a very smooth and predictable motion, and holds a course very
well. Then again, if I was going to do it all over again, I'd think
about a swinging bilgeboard or a daggerboard. It would be more
manageable, and maybe more weatherly, if not as rugged.

> (M) I for one would enjoy to hear more about your 4 days in the Apostle
> Islands - where ever that is?

The Apostle Islands are the northern most part of Wisconsin, an
archipelago of 22 islands that jut out into Lake Superior. Covering an
area of several hundred square miles, they range in size from several
square miles to several acres. All but one are part of Apostle Islands
National Lakeshore. There are a number of historic lighthouses still
maintained there. (Seehttp://www.nps.gov/apis/for more.)

My favorite island was Devil's Island. Northernmost of the islands, it
was a hard day's claw to windward to get there. Once there I found it's
many famous sea caves (some large enough to swallow several large
motorboats at a time), virgin boreal forest remnants, a bog with
cranberries and blueberries, and a boom and bust population of snowshoe
hare. There is a victorian era lighthouse on the island, keeper's
quarters, and a resident Park Service Ranger who lives there all season,
then flies South to his liveaboard to teach heavy weather sailing....
I'll write more in future post.

- Charles Buchwald
Dear Charles,

Sweet Pea sounds like a great boat. I've inserted a few comments or questions
into your post:

<< I'm relatively new to the list. Thought I'd mention that I built a
Bolger/Payson "Sweet Pea" a few years ago. For those of you unfamiliar
with this design, it's a peapod or maybe a surf dory, 15 ft. long, 5
ft. wide, double chines/5 bottom panels.

(M) I assume this is not an instant boat type of building process. Does it
call for stations or molds? Was the boat difficult to build or require any
special tools?

Designed for "Dynamite"
himself, so he could row standing up and ocaisionally sail it.

(M) Row standing up! So this is a particularly stable design?

It has
built in flotation and a removable full length keel. Plans and
directions appeared in Wooden Boat No.'s 104 & 105.

(M) How does the removeable keel work? Is it a bolt on kind of thing? Sound
interesting.

I built it in the backyard under a tarp. I used luan, Raka epoxy and
glass, leftover 1x4 stock, drywall screws, galvanized nails, Bondo,
"Ace Hardware" brand primer and marine paint. Despite the crummy
materials, poor building and storage conditions, and rough treatment
it's held up really well.

To save time, I borrowed the "seat on rails" design details from
Bolger's "Crystal", instead of making the more complex seats called for
in the plans. They are very simple, and have worked well.

To save money, I made thole pins instead of using oarlocks, and made
oars from some wood leftover from a fencing project. I've learned a lot
about thole pins. They took a little getting used to, but also work
well.

I made the keel deeper than called for, according to Peter Specter's
comment in the article. This produced quite a bit of lee helm with my
polytarp version of the sprit rig (as designed), although that may have
been caused by an oversized rudder. I made proper sailcloth sails this
summer, for a ketch rig, with a high peaked sprit main and a tiny
bermudan mizzen, and the helm is well balanced now. The design adapts
easily to the ketch rig. Sea trials with the new rig were 4 days solo
sailing in the Apostle Islands - fantastic sailing grounds!

(M) I for one would enjoy to hear more about your 4 days in the Apostle
Islands - where ever that is?

In addition to the keel I've tried various configurations of skegs and
rudders for rowing and shoal waters. Trying different variations is
simple, and has been fun. Maybe some day I'll even try a daggerboard or
centerboard trunk.

I keep it on a flat bed trailer and row and sail (and sometimes drag)
it primarily on the St. Croix River. Crew usually consists of my wife
and our two dogs, a border collie mix and a black lab mix, so it's a
full boat. We're almost always the only row boat on the river, and
always the only sailboat on the upper reaches. It's a great design, and
a great boat.
>>
I chose it partly because it's such a beautiful design, and I've gotten
many compliments. But I've always liked double enders for seaworthiness,
and it hasn't disappointed me in that regard either. I took it out on
Lake Superior this summer, with keel and sails, in 3 foot waves (and 60
degree water). Of course it doesn't point very high with that long keel,
but it tracks like it's on rails, and the keel dampens the motion so it
was quite well mannered; dry, too.

But it's undercanvased, and it's really more of a rowboat that a
sailboat. I'd encourage anyone who enjoys rowing, and is interested more
in seaworthiness than outright speed to consider this design. Under
oars, without a skeg or keel it will turn on a dime, and move right
along. We take it out on the river, with a skeg, usually rowing
(sometimes sailing) upstream into the current, then drifting back down.
It takes quite a bit of current to discourage us, and that should be
testimony to the ease with which it's rowed.

I used 1/2 inch ACX plywood for the bottom panel, instead of the 3/8
inch called for, hoping to save some weight, and figuring St. Croix
river bottom would be friendlier than Maine cobble beaches. Lots of
abuse has exposed the primer here and there, but only one or two
scratches have made it to the fiberglass sheathing.

Without the keel or sail rig I'm guessing it's not less than 150 lbs.
It's no cartopper!

I'll scan a photo and post it in the vault when I get a chance.

I have drawings of my modifications and sail plan variation, too, if
anyone is interested.

- Charles Buchwald
Hey Charles,

You're the first Sweet Pea builder we've encountered (I think?) so very many
thanks for the most interesting email.

It's a design that's always fascinated me, and I've been sorely tempted to
build one.

How much does she weigh?

Any chance of a picture sometime?

Bill Samson
--bill.samson@...

Chebacco News can be viewed on:
http://members.xoom.com/billsamson

-----Original Message-----
From:graphics@...<graphics@...>
To:bolger@...<bolger@...>
Date: 27 October 1999 17:22
Subject: [bolger] Sweet Pea


>I'm relatively new to the list. Thought I'd mention that I built a
>Bolger/Payson "Sweet Pea" a few years ago. For those of you unfamiliar
>with this design, it's a peapod or maybe a surf dory, 15 ft. long, 5
>ft. wide, double chines/5 bottom panels. Designed for "Dynamite"
>himself, so he could row standing up and ocaisionally sail it. It has
>built in flotation and a removable full length keel. Plans and
>directions appeared in Wooden Boat No.'s 104 & 105.
>
>I built it in the backyard under a tarp. I used luan, Raka epoxy and
>glass, leftover 1x4 stock, drywall screws, galvanized nails, Bondo,
>"Ace Hardware" brand primer and marine paint. Despite the crummy
>materials, poor building and storage conditions, and rough treatment
>it's held up really well.
>
>To save time, I borrowed the "seat on rails" design details from
>Bolger's "Crystal", instead of making the more complex seats called for
>in the plans. They are very simple, and have worked well.
>
>To save money, I made thole pins instead of using oarlocks, and made
>oars from some wood leftover from a fencing project. I've learned a lot
>about thole pins. They took a little getting used to, but also work
>well.
>
>I made the keel deeper than called for, according to Peter Specter's
>comment in the article. This produced quite a bit of lee helm with my
>polytarp version of the sprit rig (as designed), although that may have
>been caused by an oversized rudder. I made proper sailcloth sails this
>summer, for a ketch rig, with a high peaked sprit main and a tiny
>bermudan mizzen, and the helm is well balanced now. The design adapts
>easily to the ketch rig. Sea trials with the new rig were 4 days solo
>sailing in the Apostle Islands - fantastic sailing grounds!
>
>In addition to the keel I've tried various configurations of skegs and
>rudders for rowing and shoal waters. Trying different variations is
>simple, and has been fun. Maybe some day I'll even try a daggerboard or
>centerboard trunk.
>
>I keep it on a flat bed trailer and row and sail (and sometimes drag)
>it primarily on the St. Croix River. Crew usually consists of my wife
>and our two dogs, a border collie mix and a black lab mix, so it's a
>full boat. We're almost always the only row boat on the river, and
>always the only sailboat on the upper reaches. It's a great design, and
>a great boat.
>
> - Charles Buchwald
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Java or juggling?. Everybody learns something at Learn2.com. Where
>you'll find thousands of free 2torials, affordable online courses, and
>useful tips for everyday life.http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/964
>
>
>eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
>
>
I'm relatively new to the list. Thought I'd mention that I built a
Bolger/Payson "Sweet Pea" a few years ago. For those of you unfamiliar
with this design, it's a peapod or maybe a surf dory, 15 ft. long, 5
ft. wide, double chines/5 bottom panels. Designed for "Dynamite"
himself, so he could row standing up and ocaisionally sail it. It has
built in flotation and a removable full length keel. Plans and
directions appeared in Wooden Boat No.'s 104 & 105.

I built it in the backyard under a tarp. I used luan, Raka epoxy and
glass, leftover 1x4 stock, drywall screws, galvanized nails, Bondo,
"Ace Hardware" brand primer and marine paint. Despite the crummy
materials, poor building and storage conditions, and rough treatment
it's held up really well.

To save time, I borrowed the "seat on rails" design details from
Bolger's "Crystal", instead of making the more complex seats called for
in the plans. They are very simple, and have worked well.

To save money, I made thole pins instead of using oarlocks, and made
oars from some wood leftover from a fencing project. I've learned a lot
about thole pins. They took a little getting used to, but also work
well.

I made the keel deeper than called for, according to Peter Specter's
comment in the article. This produced quite a bit of lee helm with my
polytarp version of the sprit rig (as designed), although that may have
been caused by an oversized rudder. I made proper sailcloth sails this
summer, for a ketch rig, with a high peaked sprit main and a tiny
bermudan mizzen, and the helm is well balanced now. The design adapts
easily to the ketch rig. Sea trials with the new rig were 4 days solo
sailing in the Apostle Islands - fantastic sailing grounds!

In addition to the keel I've tried various configurations of skegs and
rudders for rowing and shoal waters. Trying different variations is
simple, and has been fun. Maybe some day I'll even try a daggerboard or
centerboard trunk.

I keep it on a flat bed trailer and row and sail (and sometimes drag)
it primarily on the St. Croix River. Crew usually consists of my wife
and our two dogs, a border collie mix and a black lab mix, so it's a
full boat. We're almost always the only row boat on the river, and
always the only sailboat on the upper reaches. It's a great design, and
a great boat.

- Charles Buchwald