Re: [bolger] Re: MJ epoxy bearings
If it were mounted under the sponson, then it might get banged at the
dock. If it were mounted on top of the sponson, then it might get in
the way of seating, but it would be more readily accessible. When I
move mine, it will most likely be to the top of the sponson. (No ETA
on that, unfortunately.)
dock. If it were mounted on top of the sponson, then it might get in
the way of seating, but it would be more readily accessible. When I
move mine, it will most likely be to the top of the sponson. (No ETA
on that, unfortunately.)
On May 10, 2008, at 6:36 AM, Tony wrote:
> Thanks Mike,
>
> I appreciate the info you have given me.
>
> In regards to the 5) boomkin � Instead of running it from the cockpit
> > out through the transom, I suggest making use of the sponson and
> > mounting it up there so that it doesn't beat your dinghy to death
>
> Do you suggest mounting it above the sponsons or in the right angle
> formed by the underside of the sponsons and the hull..?
>
> Tony
>
>
>
Mike Stockstill
mkstocks@...
http://mkstocks.tripod.com/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thanks Mike,
I appreciate the info you have given me.
In regards to the 5) boomkin Instead of running it from the cockpit
formed by the underside of the sponsons and the hull..?
Tony
I appreciate the info you have given me.
In regards to the 5) boomkin Instead of running it from the cockpit
> out through the transom, I suggest making use of the sponson andDo you suggest mounting it above the sponsons or in the right angle
> mounting it up there so that it doesn't beat your dinghy to death
formed by the underside of the sponsons and the hull..?
Tony
Tony,
Mix the epoxy with fibers (glass or poly) and a lubricant (graphite
or teflon). The fibers will keep it from cracking and leaking water
into the wood. You could also fill the hole then drill it out. Much
neater filling without the tube in place.
Gene T.
Mix the epoxy with fibers (glass or poly) and a lubricant (graphite
or teflon). The fibers will keep it from cracking and leaking water
into the wood. You could also fill the hole then drill it out. Much
neater filling without the tube in place.
Gene T.
On 3 May, 2008, at 9:33 PM, Tony wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> My Martha Jane is progressing well.(origional rudder,revised
> leeboards,
> cabin and sponsons)
>
> Where the rudder tube and leeboard pins pass through the plywood hull,
> I am planning to drill the holes oversize (6mm)
> Cover tube with release wax
> Place 3mm spacers between the tube and inside of hole
> Fill the gap with epoxy
>
> Hopefully ending with a quarter inch thick epoxy bearing surface and a
> good way to keep the water out of the plywood.
>
> If anyone has experience with this idea or has a better solution I'd
> love to hear your opinion.
>
> Regards Tony
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
PS - in my previous post I neglected to mention that the plates for the rudder post and
the plates for the leeboard are each attached with screws -- that is why the plates do the
work..
the plates for the leeboard are each attached with screws -- that is why the plates do the
work..
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Tony" <tony40w@...> wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> My Martha Jane is progressing well.(origional rudder,revised leeboards,
> cabin and sponsons)
>
> Where the rudder tube and leeboard pins pass through the plywood hull,
> I am planning to drill the holes oversize (6mm)
> Cover tube with release wax
> Place 3mm spacers between the tube and inside of hole
> Fill the gap with epoxy
>
> Hopefully ending with a quarter inch thick epoxy bearing surface and a
> good way to keep the water out of the plywood.
>
> If anyone has experience with this idea or has a better solution I'd
> love to hear your opinion.
>
> Regards Tony
>
My Martha Jane suggestions and rudder & leeboard detail (based on what I
did and am doing). 1) bow omit the wood above the upper step to
make it easier to get in and out when the heel of the mast is sticking
forward - and that will be most of the time you need to get in and out.
I added a photo in the link below. 2) bow leave the lower step,
but close off the area inside the bow well so that you don't get so
much water coming in during a chop. It is on my list for this summer.
3) rudder -- my web site has details of the stainless steel hardware I
had fabricated to build the boat. The cost was around $1200 I think
(circa 1999). Go tohttp://mkstocks.tripod.com/
<http://mkstocks.tripod.com> Click boats, Martha Jane, hardware
details. They are pretty much according to plan. Note the comments
about the collar on the rudder post. Leeboard hardware is not shown
because the revised design did not yet exist. I went another step and
cut a piece of the white plastic stuff I used for leeboard bearings to
sit between the square plate and the wood. I used a keyhole saw that
was just a hair smaller than the diameter of the rudder post. That
make the rudder movement completely silent as it turns the metal
does the real work, but the plastic keeps anything from rattling at
all. The rudder assembly makes a great place to put your gas tank too
down out of the way. Put some Dri-Dek there for added drainage.
I added a shelf above mine (attached to the assembly) for fenders, etc.
It all hinges up as needed. You don't need to tie down the
assembly the weight of the tank and the junk keep it down. I have
to raise mine up every time I back in the driveway due to the hill, and
all the stuff pivots up and down without incident. 4) leeboards
I put some photos in the photo section showing the hardware breakdown.
You get there via this link -
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/photos/browse/7331
<http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/photos/browse/7331> Or if
that doesn't work, just go to the Photos section of the Bolger group
(the first one, no number on the end) and look for the folder Martha
Jane rAmBuNcTiOuS. The hardware is to plans except that I made the
plates round instead of square. Starting from the outside in: Bolt,
washer, washer, plate, leeboard, bearing board on boat, plate, washer,
washer, stop nut The "washer, washer" is important I
found that with only one, the bolts would get all twisted every time I
removed the nut. Instead of buying bolts, I added the extra washer and
never had a problem since. The hole in the plywood the nut passes
through isn't anything special just bigger than the bolt.
The stainless plates do all the work. I think the hole shown on the
plans for raising the leeboard is too close to the center the
boards are really heavy. I added a hole a foot lower, and then needed
to go one more foot lower. Fans- put some electric fans inside
makes for a much better boating experience when you are in a hot
parking lot. 5) boomkin Instead of running it from the cockpit
out through the transom, I suggest making use of the sponson and
mounting it up there so that it doesn't beat your dinghy to death
if you are towing one or foul the sheet. 6) stern transom I
added about 5 or 6 inches of hardwood to accommodate my longer shaft
engine. I hope some of this helps. Your mileage may vary. Mike
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Tony" <tony40w@...> wrote: > > Hi
everyone, > > My Martha Jane is progressing well.(origional
rudder,revised leeboards, > cabin and sponsons) > > Where the rudder
tube and leeboard pins pass through the plywood hull, > I am planning
to drill the holes oversize (6mm) > Cover tube with release wax > Place
3mm spacers between the tube and inside of hole > Fill the gap with
epoxy > > Hopefully ending with a quarter inch thick epoxy bearing
surface and a > good way to keep the water out of the plywood. > > If
anyone has experience with this idea or has a better solution I'd >
love to hear your opinion. > > Regards Tony >
did and am doing). 1) bow omit the wood above the upper step to
make it easier to get in and out when the heel of the mast is sticking
forward - and that will be most of the time you need to get in and out.
I added a photo in the link below. 2) bow leave the lower step,
but close off the area inside the bow well so that you don't get so
much water coming in during a chop. It is on my list for this summer.
3) rudder -- my web site has details of the stainless steel hardware I
had fabricated to build the boat. The cost was around $1200 I think
(circa 1999). Go tohttp://mkstocks.tripod.com/
<http://mkstocks.tripod.com> Click boats, Martha Jane, hardware
details. They are pretty much according to plan. Note the comments
about the collar on the rudder post. Leeboard hardware is not shown
because the revised design did not yet exist. I went another step and
cut a piece of the white plastic stuff I used for leeboard bearings to
sit between the square plate and the wood. I used a keyhole saw that
was just a hair smaller than the diameter of the rudder post. That
make the rudder movement completely silent as it turns the metal
does the real work, but the plastic keeps anything from rattling at
all. The rudder assembly makes a great place to put your gas tank too
down out of the way. Put some Dri-Dek there for added drainage.
I added a shelf above mine (attached to the assembly) for fenders, etc.
It all hinges up as needed. You don't need to tie down the
assembly the weight of the tank and the junk keep it down. I have
to raise mine up every time I back in the driveway due to the hill, and
all the stuff pivots up and down without incident. 4) leeboards
I put some photos in the photo section showing the hardware breakdown.
You get there via this link -
http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/photos/browse/7331
<http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/photos/browse/7331> Or if
that doesn't work, just go to the Photos section of the Bolger group
(the first one, no number on the end) and look for the folder Martha
Jane rAmBuNcTiOuS. The hardware is to plans except that I made the
plates round instead of square. Starting from the outside in: Bolt,
washer, washer, plate, leeboard, bearing board on boat, plate, washer,
washer, stop nut The "washer, washer" is important I
found that with only one, the bolts would get all twisted every time I
removed the nut. Instead of buying bolts, I added the extra washer and
never had a problem since. The hole in the plywood the nut passes
through isn't anything special just bigger than the bolt.
The stainless plates do all the work. I think the hole shown on the
plans for raising the leeboard is too close to the center the
boards are really heavy. I added a hole a foot lower, and then needed
to go one more foot lower. Fans- put some electric fans inside
makes for a much better boating experience when you are in a hot
parking lot. 5) boomkin Instead of running it from the cockpit
out through the transom, I suggest making use of the sponson and
mounting it up there so that it doesn't beat your dinghy to death
if you are towing one or foul the sheet. 6) stern transom I
added about 5 or 6 inches of hardwood to accommodate my longer shaft
engine. I hope some of this helps. Your mileage may vary. Mike
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Tony" <tony40w@...> wrote: > > Hi
everyone, > > My Martha Jane is progressing well.(origional
rudder,revised leeboards, > cabin and sponsons) > > Where the rudder
tube and leeboard pins pass through the plywood hull, > I am planning
to drill the holes oversize (6mm) > Cover tube with release wax > Place
3mm spacers between the tube and inside of hole > Fill the gap with
epoxy > > Hopefully ending with a quarter inch thick epoxy bearing
surface and a > good way to keep the water out of the plywood. > > If
anyone has experience with this idea or has a better solution I'd >
love to hear your opinion. > > Regards Tony >
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Tony" <tony40w@...> wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> My Martha Jane is progressing well.(origional rudder,revised
leeboards,
> cabin and sponsons)
>
> Where the rudder tube and leeboard pins pass through the plywood hull,
> I am planning to drill the holes oversize (6mm)
> Cover tube with release wax
> Place 3mm spacers between the tube and inside of hole
> Fill the gap with epoxy
>
> Hopefully ending with a quarter inch thick epoxy bearing surface and a
> good way to keep the water out of the plywood.
>
> If anyone has experience with this idea or has a better solution I'd
> love to hear your opinion.
>
> Regards Tony
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
-Tony -
I think this is a smart move. My old Diablo's first transom was done
in by the drain plug set directly against the ply. I believe it is
common practice to drill the holes oversized, then fill with epoxy and
redrill when mounting large motors on boats with ply transoms.
I have had some success with adding graphite to the epoxy mixture to
make a smoother bearing surface for pintles and parts that slide
against one another. It does make the resin a little stiffer but not
as much as adding some "kitty hair".
David Jost
I think this is a smart move. My old Diablo's first transom was done
in by the drain plug set directly against the ply. I believe it is
common practice to drill the holes oversized, then fill with epoxy and
redrill when mounting large motors on boats with ply transoms.
I have had some success with adding graphite to the epoxy mixture to
make a smoother bearing surface for pintles and parts that slide
against one another. It does make the resin a little stiffer but not
as much as adding some "kitty hair".
David Jost
I agree with Kristine on this but would take it further and add a 4 X
4 X 1-1/2" block to take the flex out of the ply that could cause
cracking.
Jon
4 X 1-1/2" block to take the flex out of the ply that could cause
cracking.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
>
> Tony epoxy by it's self is rather soft. I would add something like
milled fiber to it and then make it rather thick and is a plastic bag
with the corner cut off to fill your gap with the stuff
> Or you could look for some fiberglass pipe and is that and just
epoxy it in place.
> Blessings Krissie
>
>
>
> Where the rudder tube and leeboard pins pass through the plywood
hull,
> I am planning to drill the holes oversize (6mm)
> Cover tube with release wax
> Place 3mm spacers between the tube and inside of hole
> Fill the gap with epoxy
>
> Hopefully ending with a quarter inch thick epoxy bearing surface
and a
> good way to keep the water out of the plywood.
>
> If anyone has experience with this idea or has a better solution
I'd
> love to hear your opinion.
>
> Regards Tony
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.
Try it now.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Tony epoxy by it's self is rather soft. I would add something like milled fiber to it and then make it rather thick and is a plastic bag with the corner cut off to fill your gap with the stuff
Or you could look for some fiberglass pipe and is that and just epoxy it in place.
Blessings Krissie
Where the rudder tube and leeboard pins pass through the plywood hull,
I am planning to drill the holes oversize (6mm)
Cover tube with release wax
Place 3mm spacers between the tube and inside of hole
Fill the gap with epoxy
Hopefully ending with a quarter inch thick epoxy bearing surface and a
good way to keep the water out of the plywood.
If anyone has experience with this idea or has a better solution I'd
love to hear your opinion.
Regards Tony
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Or you could look for some fiberglass pipe and is that and just epoxy it in place.
Blessings Krissie
Where the rudder tube and leeboard pins pass through the plywood hull,
I am planning to drill the holes oversize (6mm)
Cover tube with release wax
Place 3mm spacers between the tube and inside of hole
Fill the gap with epoxy
Hopefully ending with a quarter inch thick epoxy bearing surface and a
good way to keep the water out of the plywood.
If anyone has experience with this idea or has a better solution I'd
love to hear your opinion.
Regards Tony
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi everyone,
My Martha Jane is progressing well.(origional rudder,revised leeboards,
cabin and sponsons)
Where the rudder tube and leeboard pins pass through the plywood hull,
I am planning to drill the holes oversize (6mm)
Cover tube with release wax
Place 3mm spacers between the tube and inside of hole
Fill the gap with epoxy
Hopefully ending with a quarter inch thick epoxy bearing surface and a
good way to keep the water out of the plywood.
If anyone has experience with this idea or has a better solution I'd
love to hear your opinion.
Regards Tony
My Martha Jane is progressing well.(origional rudder,revised leeboards,
cabin and sponsons)
Where the rudder tube and leeboard pins pass through the plywood hull,
I am planning to drill the holes oversize (6mm)
Cover tube with release wax
Place 3mm spacers between the tube and inside of hole
Fill the gap with epoxy
Hopefully ending with a quarter inch thick epoxy bearing surface and a
good way to keep the water out of the plywood.
If anyone has experience with this idea or has a better solution I'd
love to hear your opinion.
Regards Tony