Re: [bolger] Breakdown Sweet Pea Advise sought

> removable "hinge pins". This way I could portage two lighter halves and

I would be afraid that when adding the parts and complexity to make a
folding sweat pea, that extra weight would be required for the two
mid-transoms, and the hinges would make the whole thing heavier.

The way to make a boat lighter is to leave heavy things off.

I my experience, (and for a similar wish-list), I built the double
ender 'Cartoon 5' aka (Ultra-light row boat for homebuilders). It
achieves lightness and the ability to be portaged by using a minimum
of materials. Also, 'Cartoon 5' is easy to portage because it
balances just right, upside down, with the middle seat resting on my
shoulders. I routinely portage this boat single handed, and it can be
carried very far. (Easier when it is not a windy day.)

I think that double ended rowboats like Cartoon 5 and SweetPea are
well suited for rough water rowing, but you certainly should be a
prudent seaman considering the risks, especially if it is cold water.
Clyde Wisner wrote:
> Sweet Pea is more beautiful, but take a long hard look at Jon's "perfect
> Skiff 2008".( MAIB for May) If nothing else it will give you some ideas
> about joining halves. Clyde
> Mark Mirski wrote:
>
>
>> Greetings Mr. Bruce Hallman and group members.
>>
>> I am about to order my wood for constructing Bolger's Sweet Pea.
>>
>> I was wondering if you might provide some piratical advise on
>> modifications that would allow me to make it a "break-down Sweet Pea as
>> you have great experience with the "Tims" project.
>>
>> I would like the Sweet Pea to fold mid ship on hinges that have
>> removable "hinge pins". This way I could portage two lighter halves and
>> assemble them prior to launch plus the option to separately portage the
>> removable keel which should provide additional structure when all is
>> assembled.
>>
>> I realize that I may have to straddle the joining transoms when stand up
>> forward rowing.
>>
>> This Sweet Pea will be subject to rough portage and rough waters.
>> Structural, strength, seaworthiness and aesthetics were motivators in my
>> choice of designs.
>>
>> I have full sized plans that are soon to be applied as templates and I
>> am about to order my construction materials.
>> The strength and stabilization of the two joining center transoms are
>> want to be simple and efficient.
>>
>> All advise is welcomed.
>>
>> Respectfully, Mark Mirski
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Clyde

Thank you for your reply.

I let my subscription to MAIB expire a couple of years ago so I do not
have access to the article.

I did search -- >
http://duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM2000/projects/perfect/index.htm.
I don't know if this is the same boat that you are referencing.
If so I think that the Sweet Pea might take rougher water and I would
like to row and sail in cold weather.

I would have enjoyed viewing any "break down hull" examples.
I'm sure that it must be a great article.

II will keep my eyes out for an opportunity to be able to view your
suggestion.

With appreciation I continue to be open to suggestions.

Respectfully, Mark Mirski


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Mark Albanese wrote:
>> Mark,
>>
>> The Folding Schooner is permanently hinged at the deck with latches
>> port and starb'd, low and outside the hull.
>>http://www.instantboats.com/fschooner.htm
>>
>> I don't understand why you'd need them, though, since you want two
>> separate parts.
>>
>> Here's a common way to go.
>>http://tinyurl.com/4ptcao
>>
>> Looking around, found this. The industrial strength wheel might
>> interest you, too.
>>http://tinyurl.com/59fx92
>>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Mark

Thank you for the reference to Bolger's Folding Schooner,
http://www.instantboats.com/fschooner.htm

I very much appreciate your mentioning, "with latches port and starb'd,
low and outside the hull" as these are the sort of details I am seeking
out. As to the hinges I was thinking that they might have hinge pins
with removable pins.

I had not come across -- >http://tinyurl.com/4ptcao, The Paul Butler
project. I apreciate being able toclearlu view the details of this
suggestion. I am a bit concerned with what seems to be many bolt holes
that might well be below the water lines.

Ad thehttp://tinyurl.com/59fx92was right up my alley as well.
I am considering constructing some sort of a break down portage dolly
utilizing two small wheelbarrow tires that would suffer some abuse.

By having the ability of breaking down my craft for rough portage
opportunities I might more readily be able to drive to remote places and
launch into an area that might take more than an hour to reach when
having to row or sail an hour or more from a conventional launching ramp.

Also it would eliminate the time returning by row or sail.

In addition, I would also save launching fees in many situations as well.

Thank you for the inspirational suggestions.

respectfully, Mark Mirski



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul McLellan" <paulmclellan@...>
wrote:
> It will be worth the wait for us Peter I just hope you can stand
it
> yourself. Just a reminder to the group on how beautiful you have
> sculpted the Windermere. The early bird may get the worm but the
> second mouse gets the cheese.


Thanks for your kind words Paul. I've been hearing similar comments
lately as friends begin coming down to the boat yard to ready their
boats for another season. I just hope they're all correct in their
assessments!


> Peter I came across two round portholes yesterday. They are 20
inches
> overall, made from aluminium and one of them is painted black.
they
> looked dutiful and might be what you are looking for. If you are
> interested I can give you the information off line.

Thanks for remembering this for me Paul. However, I've already
bought one after scrounging the internet. It is a massive and
beautiful thing to look at in the flesh! It will certainly give the
head a "nautical look" :-)
http://www.trinity-portholes.com/displayproduct.phtml?
product_id=77&category_id=1f2fd299dc45ea81f86444068f8595f1

If you ever get bored out of your skull and feel like a road trip,
you are always welcome(as you know!) to drop by. Sadly, the wine you
brought last time is loooong gone and has been replaced with cold
happy little brown bottles of fun. :-D

Have a good launch!

Peter
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@...> wrote:

You know Bruce,depite plugging away at it for several years now,it
never occured to me thet there had to be an easy to explain reason for
things taking longer.

It will be worth the wait for us Peter I just hope you can stand it
yourself. Just a reminder to the group on how beautiful you have
sculpted the Windermere. The early bird may get the worm but the
second mouse gets the cheese.
Peter I came across two round portholes yesterday. They are 20 inches
overall, made from aluminium and one of them is painted black. they
looked dutiful and might be what you are looking for. If you are
interested I can give you the information off line. It is a small
boatworks selling off as the owner is going full time cruising and is
looking for a schooner. I will make a separate post on the loose moose
frames for sale. Keep up the good work Peter.
Sweet Pea is more beautiful, but take a long hard look at Jon's "perfect
Skiff 2008".( MAIB for May) If nothing else it will give you some ideas
about joining halves. Clyde
Mark Mirski wrote:

> Greetings Mr. Bruce Hallman and group members.
>
> I am about to order my wood for constructing Bolger's Sweet Pea.
>
> I was wondering if you might provide some piratical advise on
> modifications that would allow me to make it a "break-down Sweet Pea as
> you have great experience with the "Tims" project.
>
> I would like the Sweet Pea to fold mid ship on hinges that have
> removable "hinge pins". This way I could portage two lighter halves and
> assemble them prior to launch plus the option to separately portage the
> removable keel which should provide additional structure when all is
> assembled.
>
> I realize that I may have to straddle the joining transoms when stand up
> forward rowing.
>
> This Sweet Pea will be subject to rough portage and rough waters.
> Structural, strength, seaworthiness and aesthetics were motivators in my
> choice of designs.
>
> I have full sized plans that are soon to be applied as templates and I
> am about to order my construction materials.
> The strength and stabilization of the two joining center transoms are
> want to be simple and efficient.
>
> All advise is welcomed.
>
> Respectfully, Mark Mirski
>
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
> Even more, as fitting of 'inside' panels, (accurate tight
> each edge), is harder that outside panels (run wild and trim to fit).

You know Bruce,depite plugging away at it for several years now,it
never occured to me thet there had to be an easy to explain reason for
things taking longer.Your explaination neatly hits the nail on the
head.Thanks!




> Just looking, you could get an image of Windermere printed on a 22oz
> beer stein.


Oooooh,I LIKE that idea,very very much indeed:)



> Spyder is moving along just fine, in between real life activities!
> As to tested perserverance, yes.
> I find sanding acres of fiberglass smooth to be not much fun.
> Though, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Although we differ on the sanding issue( I love getting into the zone
with my sander and can do it for hours) the rest is ditto for me and I
am glad you are nearing the end of the tunnel. I'm certain she is
going to be a real good looker!

Sincerely,

Peter Lenihan,just about finished with another shift at the hospital
and ramping up for a good day at the boat!
>
> Mark,
>
> The Folding Schooner is permanently hinged at the deck with latches
> port and starb'd, low and outside the hull.
>http://www.instantboats.com/fschooner.htm
>
> I don't understand why you'd need them, though, since you want two
> separate parts.
>
> Here's a common way to go.
>http://tinyurl.com/4ptcao
>
> Looking around, found this. The industrial strength wheel might
> interest you, too.
>http://tinyurl.com/59fx92
Greetings Mr. Bruce Hallman and group members.

I am about to order my wood for constructing Bolger's Sweet Pea.

I was wondering if you might provide some piratical advise on
modifications that would allow me to make it a "break-down Sweet Pea as
you have great experience with the "Tims" project.

I would like the Sweet Pea to fold mid ship on hinges that have
removable "hinge pins". This way I could portage two lighter halves and
assemble them prior to launch plus the option to separately portage the
removable keel which should provide additional structure when all is
assembled.

I realize that I may have to straddle the joining transoms when stand up
forward rowing.

This Sweet Pea will be subject to rough portage and rough waters.
Structural, strength, seaworthiness and aesthetics were motivators in my
choice of designs.

I have full sized plans that are soon to be applied as templates and I
am about to order my construction materials.
The strength and stabilization of the two joining center transoms are
want to be simple and efficient.

All advise is welcomed.

Respectfully, Mark Mirski
On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 1:31 AM, Peter Lenihan <peterlenihan@...> wrote:
> That is just fantastic and very impressive work! I really like the
> shading as it does give considerable depth to the object.Does the
> program you are using allow you to do full(solid) colouring of
> surfaces?

Yes, here are a few pictures with 'solid' surface

http://flickr.com/photos/hallman/2477895631/


> Since I went for the full four season option,which means full 2 inch
> insulation everywhere but the hull bottom,you eventually realize that
> your almost have to build the boat twice

How true! Even more, as fitting of 'inside' panels, (accurate tight
each edge), is harder that outside panels (run wild and trim to fit).



> Thanks again for the isometric Bruce. I wish I had full size posters
> of them.

You are welcome. You could always make a copy of the 'jpg' and take
it to a print shop.
Or, I see that flickr sells physical prints via snail mail, including
poster sized, (click "prints and more")
Just looking, you could get an image of Windermere printed on a 22oz
beer stein.

> How is your Spyder coming along? Testing your perseverance yet?

Spyder is moving along just fine, in between real life activities!
As to tested perserverance, yes.
I find sanding acres of fiberglass smooth to be not much fun.
Though, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Paul Esterle <pesterle@...> wrote:
>
> Speaking of which, where is Peter Lenihan? I miss his progress
reports...

Here I is Paul. Like you, I too miss my progress reports as they
represented construction progress,real building! Exciting stuff for
those of us more visually oriented! However, it has been a while
since the big building stages have ended and I have been whittling
away at the fussy little interior "detail"stuff. Understand that the
construction plans show only a suggested layout accompanied by
building instructions that go something like," Use space over galley
counter for cupboards built to suit and personal taste." Not much
hand holding or specifics from the designer beyond that.This
approach is liberating in some ways for it does allow a builder some
room to build in all the fancy little things he has ever seen in
pictures of boat interiors without feeling like he is ignoring the
designer's intentions. The down side is having to:

a)know exactly what type of "look" you are after,before you begin.
b)make sure it will fit and work as imagined,before you begin.
c)become a"interior designer" quickly,before you begin.
and last but not least,
d)have the ability to acquire new skills like cabinet building,
before you begin.

Ignoring any of the above,"before you begins" will greatly slow
things down as you will have to learn after having already begun:-)

I won't make any promises right now, but I will attempt to get a
string of fresh new photos up soon....say like in the next few weeks
or so....as I get my shit together.

Thanks for enquiring !

Sincerely,

Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
> Windermere isometric, simplified a little, upon modeling I have
gained
> an appreciation of how big and complex a boat she is!
>
>http://flickr.com/photos/hallman/2471167271/

WOW!! Bruce!!!

That is just fantastic and very impressive work! I really like the
shading as it does give considerable depth to the object.Does the
program you are using allow you to do full(solid) colouring of
surfaces?

My boat does have a few small deviations from the actual plan like a
central sky-light over the head/galley area, a starboard double berth
and a proper shower stall.When PCB&F's paid a visit, they appeared
impressed and not at all disturbed by the noted changes(especially
when I explained my reasons for them!).

Since I went for the full four season option,which means full 2 inch
insulation everywhere but the hull bottom,you eventually realize that
your almost have to build the boat twice as all interior surfaces need
to be covered to protect the foam from "nervous nails and fingers".And
this calls for some joinerwork and cabinet work, both novel endeavours
for me big time!Not owning any stationary tools nor having a real shop
just makes the whole thing all the more....er...a...interesting,shall
we say. :-)

However,the biggest time sink is all my own doing. I began building
her with the intention of attaining,if not surpassing,the same level
of workmanship as I had done on my Micro LESTAT. Oh boy!,little did I
know what I was letting myself in for. This is a much bigger boat than
the naked dimensions would suggest or its' simple shape makes it
appear as.Being just a wee bit obsessive doesn't help either :-)

At any rate,this summer(late summer) looks to be yet again another
launch possibility and I've even booked 5 vacation weeks to take a
cruise on her so.......I am going to be terribly busy for a few
months:-)

Thanks again for the isometric Bruce. I wish I had full size posters
of them.

How is your Spyder coming along? Testing your perseverance yet?

Sincerely,

Peter Lenihan
Speaking of which, where is Peter Lenihan? I miss his progress reports...

Paul Esterle
Freelance Boating Writer
Columbia 10.7, 26 & Matilda 20
North East, MD.
“Capt’n Pauley’s Boat Repairs & Upgrades”
book at www.captnpauley.com
home.comcast.net/~pesterle/



Bruce Hallman wrote:
>
> Windermere isometric, simplified a little, upon modeling I have gained
> an appreciation of how big and complex a boat she is!
>
>http://flickr.com/photos/hallman/2471167271/
> <http://flickr.com/photos/hallman/2471167271/>
>
>
Windermere isometric, simplified a little, upon modeling I have gained
an appreciation of how big and complex a boat she is!

http://flickr.com/photos/hallman/2471167271/