Re: [bolger] hull fairing sequence
I have faired many a kayak and we most always fair first then glass, you end up with a greater chance of a uniform surface coating and the chance of cutting through the glass by sanding is greatly minimized and you just focas on filling the glass weave. If you have a goodly sized commpressor try using an inline board sander like one found in an autobody shop, I love them, fast and kinder on your shoulders.
Randy
Randy
--- On Sun, 6/1/08, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
From: Harry James <welshman@...>
Subject: Re: [bolger] hull fairing sequence
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Received: Sunday, June 1, 2008, 10:03 PM
My father a Master Shipwright, used a low angle light to profile the
imperfections, I find that works as well or better than taking outside.
You will find high quality sheet rocker/tapers do the same thing.
HJ
Douglas Pollard wrote:
> Here is a suggestion based on my own experience. It is really hard to
> see the imperfections in the hull with the boat inside a shed and it's
> equally hard to feel any long gentle waves there. If before you paint
> you take her out into the bright sunlight you may be surprised just how
> unfair she is. With diligence and a long board you will likely get it
> all. The problem comes when say that is pretty good but not perfect then
> take it outside and find that it's much worse than you thought. I
> recently built my Elver in a plastic covered bow shed. Nice place to
> work, but nearly impossible to see imperfections because there are
> absolutely no shadows at all. This thing of no shadows though is
> wonderful when you are assembling a boat, or are underneath of it.
>
> Doug
>
>
> Bruce Erney wrote:
>
>> I'm getting a hull ready for glass and paint, using peel ply to save
>> sanding. I am longboarding the hull and can't decide wether to fair
>> with filler then glass or glass then fair with microlight filler.
>> This is so much fun, I really enjoy the work and the results.
>> Thanks,
>> Bruce in NJ
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------ --------- --------- ------
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@ yahoogroups. com
> - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_ lounge-subscribe @yahoogroups. com Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________________________
Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
http://www.flickr.com/gift/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
My father a Master Shipwright, used a low angle light to profile the
imperfections, I find that works as well or better than taking outside.
You will find high quality sheet rocker/tapers do the same thing.
HJ
Douglas Pollard wrote:
imperfections, I find that works as well or better than taking outside.
You will find high quality sheet rocker/tapers do the same thing.
HJ
Douglas Pollard wrote:
> Here is a suggestion based on my own experience. It is really hard to
> see the imperfections in the hull with the boat inside a shed and it's
> equally hard to feel any long gentle waves there. If before you paint
> you take her out into the bright sunlight you may be surprised just how
> unfair she is. With diligence and a long board you will likely get it
> all. The problem comes when say that is pretty good but not perfect then
> take it outside and find that it's much worse than you thought. I
> recently built my Elver in a plastic covered bow shed. Nice place to
> work, but nearly impossible to see imperfections because there are
> absolutely no shadows at all. This thing of no shadows though is
> wonderful when you are assembling a boat, or are underneath of it.
>
> Doug
>
>
> Bruce Erney wrote:
>
>> I'm getting a hull ready for glass and paint, using peel ply to save
>> sanding. I am longboarding the hull and can't decide wether to fair
>> with filler then glass or glass then fair with microlight filler.
>> This is so much fun, I really enjoy the work and the results.
>> Thanks,
>> Bruce in NJ
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Sorry for the non-Bolger references, but here are 2 examples of using
stiff plastic film to achieve a significant savings in finishing labor
and time. One is a web site called Electric boat consruction. Scroll
about halfway down to the part about finishing the hull.
http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro/electric_boat
The other from Garth Batista who built a 32' boat (I think ) by Jim
Michalak, and it was on Jim's news letter archives.This is a copy of a
message he posted to this group about where to locate the film.
-Hi Harry --
Here's what John Blazy has posted on his website
(http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro/electric_boat):
ATTENTION ALL WHO HAVE BEEN DYING TO KNOW WHERE I GET .030" POLYESTER
FILM: ANY PLASTICS DISTRIBUTOR LIKE GE POLYMERSHAPES (FORMERLY
CADILLAC PLASTICS), CURBELL, OR LOCAL SHEET/FILM PLASTICS SUPPLIERS IN
YOUR AREA - USE THE YELLOW PAGES. TRY SIGNAGE / GRAPHICS / LAMINATORS
TOO. OTHER FILMS LIKE LEXAN IN .020 - .030 SHOULD WORK AS WELL, EVEN
WITH THE PRE-MASKING CLING FILM LEFT ON, TO ENSURE REMOVAL. AND YES,
YOU HAVE TO SCARF PIECES FOR LONGER LENGTHS UNLESS YOU CAN GET ROLL
STOCK. IT SCARFS EASILY WITH SOLVENT CEMENT.
Now that we've brought the subject up and my memory has been slowly
rewarmed like a TV dinner from the back of the freezer, I recall that
what I bought from GE Polyshapes was 20 mil Lexan. It came in a roll,
which was very essential for doing big panels -- you can't roll the
bubbles out after it's on that big an area, so you roll them out as
you go.
I think it was about $200 for the 40' x 4' roll. Not cheap, but in
doing a big boat, I was able to hide it from my accountant (that is,
the side of my brain atempting to actually keep costs under control .
. . ).
I cut off 8' of it in 6 sections sized 16" x 4' for making perfectly
smooth glass butt joints, sandwiched between MDO pieces of the same
size and screwed down -- with the screw holes filled in later. And the
remaining 32' was just right for four ply sheets end-to-end.
The really cool thing about this film technique is that you can have
varying layers of fiberglass -- like overlapping pieces, or tape
running under cloth, or extra scraps laid in at random -- and once the
film goes over it, it all comes out glass smooth on the surface. You
can do things like running an extra tape down the middle of a side
panel, for instance, to reinforce it where it will be farthest from
any framing -- but it'll be completely undetectable, with no fairing, etc.
Good luck finding film that'll work for you. What are you building?
Garth
I can't find the original article by Garth, which is too bad because
the pictures tell the story. But Garth built the full length panels
for his boat,laid them out on a flat floor, rolled out the cloth,
squeegeed and spread the epoxy, then he proceeded to take a roll of
this stiff film, and starting at one end unroll it over the panel
while applying his body weight which pushed all the air and bubbles
out ahead of the roll. He left the film on until the next day when it
had cured , peeled the film to reveal a mirror finish.
David
stiff plastic film to achieve a significant savings in finishing labor
and time. One is a web site called Electric boat consruction. Scroll
about halfway down to the part about finishing the hull.
http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro/electric_boat
The other from Garth Batista who built a 32' boat (I think ) by Jim
Michalak, and it was on Jim's news letter archives.This is a copy of a
message he posted to this group about where to locate the film.
-Hi Harry --
Here's what John Blazy has posted on his website
(http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro/electric_boat):
ATTENTION ALL WHO HAVE BEEN DYING TO KNOW WHERE I GET .030" POLYESTER
FILM: ANY PLASTICS DISTRIBUTOR LIKE GE POLYMERSHAPES (FORMERLY
CADILLAC PLASTICS), CURBELL, OR LOCAL SHEET/FILM PLASTICS SUPPLIERS IN
YOUR AREA - USE THE YELLOW PAGES. TRY SIGNAGE / GRAPHICS / LAMINATORS
TOO. OTHER FILMS LIKE LEXAN IN .020 - .030 SHOULD WORK AS WELL, EVEN
WITH THE PRE-MASKING CLING FILM LEFT ON, TO ENSURE REMOVAL. AND YES,
YOU HAVE TO SCARF PIECES FOR LONGER LENGTHS UNLESS YOU CAN GET ROLL
STOCK. IT SCARFS EASILY WITH SOLVENT CEMENT.
Now that we've brought the subject up and my memory has been slowly
rewarmed like a TV dinner from the back of the freezer, I recall that
what I bought from GE Polyshapes was 20 mil Lexan. It came in a roll,
which was very essential for doing big panels -- you can't roll the
bubbles out after it's on that big an area, so you roll them out as
you go.
I think it was about $200 for the 40' x 4' roll. Not cheap, but in
doing a big boat, I was able to hide it from my accountant (that is,
the side of my brain atempting to actually keep costs under control .
. . ).
I cut off 8' of it in 6 sections sized 16" x 4' for making perfectly
smooth glass butt joints, sandwiched between MDO pieces of the same
size and screwed down -- with the screw holes filled in later. And the
remaining 32' was just right for four ply sheets end-to-end.
The really cool thing about this film technique is that you can have
varying layers of fiberglass -- like overlapping pieces, or tape
running under cloth, or extra scraps laid in at random -- and once the
film goes over it, it all comes out glass smooth on the surface. You
can do things like running an extra tape down the middle of a side
panel, for instance, to reinforce it where it will be farthest from
any framing -- but it'll be completely undetectable, with no fairing, etc.
Good luck finding film that'll work for you. What are you building?
Garth
I can't find the original article by Garth, which is too bad because
the pictures tell the story. But Garth built the full length panels
for his boat,laid them out on a flat floor, rolled out the cloth,
squeegeed and spread the epoxy, then he proceeded to take a roll of
this stiff film, and starting at one end unroll it over the panel
while applying his body weight which pushed all the air and bubbles
out ahead of the roll. He left the film on until the next day when it
had cured , peeled the film to reveal a mirror finish.
David
That's what I'm going to do. I checked West Systems site and they suggest the same thing. I guess I'm anxious to hit the water and looking for a short cut. I started this May 1st and thought a few weeks tops to complete. It's rained here more than ever this month. I guess I have about 2 weeks of working days into it so it's not that bad but never again without a shelter.
Thanks,
Bruce
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...>
Thanks,
Bruce
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...>
> Bruce when I was working at Uniflite I worked on the tooling shop for a bit and[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> the rules there were get the plug as close to what they wanted before the skin
> coat was put on and faired.
>
> I would get the hull as fair as you can before glassing it. But you will still
> have a few places to fair after you have glassed it anyway.
>
> I have spent a few hours with a long board in my hands.... That thing is hard on
> the shoulders!
>
> Blessings Krissie
Bruce when I was working at Uniflite I worked on the tooling shop for a bit and the rules there were get the plug as close to what they wanted before the skin coat was put on and faired.
I would get the hull as fair as you can before glassing it. But you will still have a few places to fair after you have glassed it anyway.
I have spent a few hours with a long board in my hands.... That thing is hard on the shoulders!
Blessings Krissie
Bruce Erney <echo172@...> wrote: I'm getting a hull ready for glass and paint, using peel ply to save
sanding. I am longboarding the hull and can't decide wether to fair
with filler then glass or glass then fair with microlight filler.
This is so much fun, I really enjoy the work and the results.
Thanks,
Bruce in NJ
_
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I would get the hull as fair as you can before glassing it. But you will still have a few places to fair after you have glassed it anyway.
I have spent a few hours with a long board in my hands.... That thing is hard on the shoulders!
Blessings Krissie
Bruce Erney <echo172@...> wrote: I'm getting a hull ready for glass and paint, using peel ply to save
sanding. I am longboarding the hull and can't decide wether to fair
with filler then glass or glass then fair with microlight filler.
This is so much fun, I really enjoy the work and the results.
Thanks,
Bruce in NJ
_
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I'm building outside in sunlight. I cover it over for rain and night.
My preference is to sand, epoxy/glass the hull, fill the waves, sand, epoxy last coat, sand then primer and paint. Flip and do the inside same way. I'm just not certain about microlight filler, West 410, because it seems soft when cured. I think it might be best between coats rather than under the cloth.
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Douglas Pollard <Dougpol1@...>
My preference is to sand, epoxy/glass the hull, fill the waves, sand, epoxy last coat, sand then primer and paint. Flip and do the inside same way. I'm just not certain about microlight filler, West 410, because it seems soft when cured. I think it might be best between coats rather than under the cloth.
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Douglas Pollard <Dougpol1@...>
> Here is a suggestion based on my own experience. It is really hard to[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> see the imperfections in the hull with the boat inside a shed and it's
> equally hard to feel any long gentle waves there. If before you paint
> you take her out into the bright sunlight you may be surprised just how
> unfair she is. With diligence and a long board you will likely get it
> all. The problem comes when say that is pretty good but not perfect then
> take it outside and find that it's much worse than you thought. I
> recently built my Elver in a plastic covered bow shed. Nice place to
> work, but nearly impossible to see imperfections because there are
> absolutely no shadows at all. This thing of no shadows though is
> wonderful when you are assembling a boat, or are underneath of it.
>
> Doug
>
>
> Bruce Erney wrote:
> >
> > I'm getting a hull ready for glass and paint, using peel ply to save
> > sanding. I am longboarding the hull and can't decide wether to fair
> > with filler then glass or glass then fair with microlight filler.
> > This is so much fun, I really enjoy the work and the results.
> > Thanks,
> > Bruce in NJ
> >
> >
>
Here is a suggestion based on my own experience. It is really hard to
see the imperfections in the hull with the boat inside a shed and it's
equally hard to feel any long gentle waves there. If before you paint
you take her out into the bright sunlight you may be surprised just how
unfair she is. With diligence and a long board you will likely get it
all. The problem comes when say that is pretty good but not perfect then
take it outside and find that it's much worse than you thought. I
recently built my Elver in a plastic covered bow shed. Nice place to
work, but nearly impossible to see imperfections because there are
absolutely no shadows at all. This thing of no shadows though is
wonderful when you are assembling a boat, or are underneath of it.
Doug
Bruce Erney wrote:
see the imperfections in the hull with the boat inside a shed and it's
equally hard to feel any long gentle waves there. If before you paint
you take her out into the bright sunlight you may be surprised just how
unfair she is. With diligence and a long board you will likely get it
all. The problem comes when say that is pretty good but not perfect then
take it outside and find that it's much worse than you thought. I
recently built my Elver in a plastic covered bow shed. Nice place to
work, but nearly impossible to see imperfections because there are
absolutely no shadows at all. This thing of no shadows though is
wonderful when you are assembling a boat, or are underneath of it.
Doug
Bruce Erney wrote:
>
> I'm getting a hull ready for glass and paint, using peel ply to save
> sanding. I am longboarding the hull and can't decide wether to fair
> with filler then glass or glass then fair with microlight filler.
> This is so much fun, I really enjoy the work and the results.
> Thanks,
> Bruce in NJ
>
>
I'm getting a hull ready for glass and paint, using peel ply to save
sanding. I am longboarding the hull and can't decide wether to fair
with filler then glass or glass then fair with microlight filler.
This is so much fun, I really enjoy the work and the results.
Thanks,
Bruce in NJ
sanding. I am longboarding the hull and can't decide wether to fair
with filler then glass or glass then fair with microlight filler.
This is so much fun, I really enjoy the work and the results.
Thanks,
Bruce in NJ
Hi Bruce
The original plans as in "The Folding Schooner" called for 12 inch by
12 inch by 24 inch foam in the midships area (on each side) and
filling the forepeak with foam (which doesn't count much as it's so
near the centreline).
Calculating buoyancy for this foam (in kg, since that's easier, is
approx 3 by 3 by 6 equals 54 kg = 130 pounds approx)
Even Bolger's rules allow each hull to weigh 150 pounds stripped so
combined weight must be more than 400 pounds.
I doubt it would float very high on the rail at all. The only other
reports I have read are with the light scooner and they need help to
recover after capsize.
We did add a ballasted centreboard rather than the twin bilgeboards,
but I'm not sure it makes much difference- I'd like to try with a
standard non ballasted board.
Peter
The original plans as in "The Folding Schooner" called for 12 inch by
12 inch by 24 inch foam in the midships area (on each side) and
filling the forepeak with foam (which doesn't count much as it's so
near the centreline).
Calculating buoyancy for this foam (in kg, since that's easier, is
approx 3 by 3 by 6 equals 54 kg = 130 pounds approx)
Even Bolger's rules allow each hull to weigh 150 pounds stripped so
combined weight must be more than 400 pounds.
I doubt it would float very high on the rail at all. The only other
reports I have read are with the light scooner and they need help to
recover after capsize.
We did add a ballasted centreboard rather than the twin bilgeboards,
but I'm not sure it makes much difference- I'd like to try with a
standard non ballasted board.
Peter
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
> On Thu, May 22, 2008 at 3:02 PM, Peter Kortlucke
> <pkortlucke@...> wrote:
> >
> > The flotation tanks work brilliantly in a capsize (only happened
once)
> > and we were sailing again in a couple of minutes.
>
> Yes, I can imagine.
>
> Also, the 'per plans' folding schooner still has many hundreds of
> pounds of buoyancy in the midships flotation chamber that I figure
she
> also would also pretty high up on rail in a knockdown.
>
> Your modification has the advantage of providing a 'seating surface'
> when hiking out. Also, I notice you have a ballasted centerboard?
>
> Here is an isometric rendering of a more-or-less "per plans"
Folding Schooner.
>
>http://flickr.com/photos/hallman/2516328089/
>
On Thu, May 22, 2008 at 3:02 PM, Peter Kortlucke
<pkortlucke@...> wrote:
Also, the 'per plans' folding schooner still has many hundreds of
pounds of buoyancy in the midships flotation chamber that I figure she
also would also pretty high up on rail in a knockdown.
Your modification has the advantage of providing a 'seating surface'
when hiking out. Also, I notice you have a ballasted centerboard?
Here is an isometric rendering of a more-or-less "per plans" Folding Schooner.
http://flickr.com/photos/hallman/2516328089/
<pkortlucke@...> wrote:
>Yes, I can imagine.
> The flotation tanks work brilliantly in a capsize (only happened once)
> and we were sailing again in a couple of minutes.
Also, the 'per plans' folding schooner still has many hundreds of
pounds of buoyancy in the midships flotation chamber that I figure she
also would also pretty high up on rail in a knockdown.
Your modification has the advantage of providing a 'seating surface'
when hiking out. Also, I notice you have a ballasted centerboard?
Here is an isometric rendering of a more-or-less "per plans" Folding Schooner.
http://flickr.com/photos/hallman/2516328089/
Mark
You can find the album here
http://community.webshots.com/user/phk58
<http://community.webshots.com/user/phk58>
Peter
You can find the album here
http://community.webshots.com/user/phk58
<http://community.webshots.com/user/phk58>
Peter
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Mark Mirski <anshin@...> wrote:
>
> Peter Kortlucke wrote:
> > Hi Mike
> >
> > I've added a couple of photos taken during construction- these may
> > explain the hinges and chine cleats.
> > Re the hinge mechanism, the aluminium tangs are longer than designed
> > as we added some camber to the deck (purely for aesthetic reasons)
> > and are connected simply with stainless bolts as the pivot pins.
> > Re the lower connection, spectra line is wrapped around the chine
> > cleats for a few turns and then taken to another cleat with a heavy
> > shockcord- you can just see it in one of the sailing photos (titled
> > 15 knots etc)
> >
> > Peter
> >
>
> Peter Kortlucke
>
> Thank you for your contributions to the Bolger group.
>
> I have been looking for your folder on the Bolger group photos.
>
> Please send me the URL for your folding schooner imagery. I'm just not
> quite sure which folding schooner folder is yours.
>
> Thank you in advance for considering this request.
>
> Mark Mirski anshin@...
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bruce
We certainly modified the design quite a lot.
The flotation tanks work brilliantly in a capsize (only happened once)
and we were sailing again in a couple of minutes.
The extra weight is not so much as the stiffening effect of the tanks
acting as torsion tubes means most of the framing was eliminated. All
up weight with a steel centreboard is 250kg.
The bottom is a lot stiffer than the sides with the tanks and beefed up
to half inch in some areas so I wouldn't trail it sideways.
Peter
We certainly modified the design quite a lot.
The flotation tanks work brilliantly in a capsize (only happened once)
and we were sailing again in a couple of minutes.
The extra weight is not so much as the stiffening effect of the tanks
acting as torsion tubes means most of the framing was eliminated. All
up weight with a steel centreboard is 250kg.
The bottom is a lot stiffer than the sides with the tanks and beefed up
to half inch in some areas so I wouldn't trail it sideways.
Peter
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the photos. Those are the most descriptive photos of a
> Folding Schooner I have ever seen. If I am not mistaken, I see that
> you have 'boxed-in' the sides, adding huge "knock down" flotation
> buoyancy, plus adding side decking, a good place to sit when hiking
> out. This adds a bit of weight (an issue when folding), but I think
> is an overall improvement to the design. It is interesting to see how
> the hull can float (and fold) on her side. Raising the question:
> Might she rest on the trailer better on her side?
>
Peter Kortlucke wrote:
Thank you for your contributions to the Bolger group.
I have been looking for your folder on the Bolger group photos.
Please send me the URL for your folding schooner imagery. I'm just not
quite sure which folding schooner folder is yours.
Thank you in advance for considering this request.
Mark Mirskianshin@...
> Hi MikePeter Kortlucke
>
> I've added a couple of photos taken during construction- these may
> explain the hinges and chine cleats.
> Re the hinge mechanism, the aluminium tangs are longer than designed
> as we added some camber to the deck (purely for aesthetic reasons)
> and are connected simply with stainless bolts as the pivot pins.
> Re the lower connection, spectra line is wrapped around the chine
> cleats for a few turns and then taken to another cleat with a heavy
> shockcord- you can just see it in one of the sailing photos (titled
> 15 knots etc)
>
> Peter
>
Thank you for your contributions to the Bolger group.
I have been looking for your folder on the Bolger group photos.
Please send me the URL for your folding schooner imagery. I'm just not
quite sure which folding schooner folder is yours.
Thank you in advance for considering this request.
Mark Mirskianshin@...
Thanks for the photos. Those are the most descriptive photos of a
Folding Schooner I have ever seen. If I am not mistaken, I see that
you have 'boxed-in' the sides, adding huge "knock down" flotation
buoyancy, plus adding side decking, a good place to sit when hiking
out. This adds a bit of weight (an issue when folding), but I think
is an overall improvement to the design. It is interesting to see how
the hull can float (and fold) on her side. Raising the question:
Might she rest on the trailer better on her side?
Folding Schooner I have ever seen. If I am not mistaken, I see that
you have 'boxed-in' the sides, adding huge "knock down" flotation
buoyancy, plus adding side decking, a good place to sit when hiking
out. This adds a bit of weight (an issue when folding), but I think
is an overall improvement to the design. It is interesting to see how
the hull can float (and fold) on her side. Raising the question:
Might she rest on the trailer better on her side?
Hi Peter, Thanks for putting up the pix. I'm sure everyone else is interested in seeing them too. Your right, they were very helpful to my understanding how it works, until these groups & WB mag. I hadn't known of boats that could be pieced together like this & other ways. It amazes me.
Thanks again for the pix, Mike
Thanks again for the pix, Mike
--- On Thu, 5/22/08, Peter Kortlucke <pkortlucke@...> wrote:
> From: Peter Kortlucke <pkortlucke@...>
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Folding schooner
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, May 22, 2008, 4:28 AM
> Hi Mike
>
> I've added a couple of photos taken during
> construction- these may
> explain the hinges and chine cleats.
> Re the hinge mechanism, the aluminium tangs are longer than
> designed
> as we added some camber to the deck (purely for aesthetic
> reasons)
> and are connected simply with stainless bolts as the pivot
> pins.
> Re the lower connection, spectra line is wrapped around the
> chine
> cleats for a few turns and then taken to another cleat with
> a heavy
> shockcord- you can just see it in one of the sailing photos
> (titled
> 15 knots etc)
>
> Peter
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Michael Walther
> <michawalth3@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Peter, Ditto everything everybody has said,
> it's a beautiful
> boat and seeing deployment was fascinating. When you decide
> to take
> pictures again please remember the hinges &
> connections, I personally
> can't picture what you've written here (my failing)
> it takes pictures
> for my brain to get some things:) Thanks for
> posting
> the pix, Mike
> >
> >
> > --- On Wed, 5/21/08, Peter Kortlucke
> <pkortlucke@...> wrote:
> >
> > > From: Peter Kortlucke <pkortlucke@...>
> > > Subject: [bolger] Re: Folding schooner
> > > To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> > > Date: Wednesday, May 21, 2008, 8:37 PM
> > > Chris
> > >
> > > I don't have any photos but the chine
> connection is
> > > simply spectra
> > > line wrapped around aluminium "cleats"
> and then
> > > held under tension
> > > with a thick rubber shockcord (?bungee in the US)
> > > It self tensions and after a couple of waves is
> completely
> > > taut.
> > > We also had to add some bolts at the deck to take
> the
> > > stress off the
> > > hinges. We push it pretty hard.
> > >
> > > Peter
> > >
> > > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Christopher
> C.
> > > Wetherill"
> > > <wetherillc@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Peter,
> > > >
> > > > Very nice sequence of the unfolding
> processes. I would
> > > be curious
> > > to see
> > > > detail pics of the latch.
> > > >
> > > > V/R
> > > > Chris
> > > >
> > > > Peter Kortlucke wrote:
> > > > > Hello everyone
> > > > >
> > > > > I've recently joined this group and
> noticed
> > > in the archives some
> > > > > discussion of photos of my folding
> schooner-
> > > actually co-owned
> > > with my
> > > > > brother. I've added a few extra
> photos in my
> > > album if anyone is
> > > > > interested.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!!
> Please!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming,
> respamming, or
> > > flogging dead horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no
> 'Ed,
> > > thanks, Fred' posts
> > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your
> posts, and
> > > snip away
> > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester,
> > > MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe:
>bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > - Open discussion:
> > >bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo!
> > > Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or
> flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and
> snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
> MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:
>bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo!
> Groups Links
>
>
>
Great pics of the boat, but I would love to see pics of the expressions
on the faces of dockside hangers-on when you launch, unfold and sail away.
Calm seas & A Prosperous Voyage
Malcolm
Peter Kortlucke wrote:
on the faces of dockside hangers-on when you launch, unfold and sail away.
Calm seas & A Prosperous Voyage
Malcolm
Peter Kortlucke wrote:
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Hi Mike
>
> I've added a couple of photos taken during construction- these may
> explain the hinges and chine cleats.
> Re the hinge mechanism, the aluminium tangs are longer than designed
> as we added some camber to the deck (purely for aesthetic reasons)
> and are connected simply with stainless bolts as the pivot pins.
> Re the lower connection, spectra line is wrapped around the chine
> cleats for a few turns and then taken to another cleat with a heavy
> shockcord- you can just see it in one of the sailing photos (titled
> 15 knots etc)
>
> Peter
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com<mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>,
> Michael Walther <michawalth3@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Peter, Ditto everything everybody has said, it's a beautiful
> boat and seeing deployment was fascinating. When you decide to take
> pictures again please remember the hinges & connections, I personally
> can't picture what you've written here (my failing) it takes pictures
> for my brain to get some things:) Thanks for posting
> the pix, Mike
> >
> >
> > --- On Wed, 5/21/08, Peter Kortlucke <pkortlucke@...> wrote:
> >
> > > From: Peter Kortlucke <pkortlucke@...>
> > > Subject: [bolger] Re: Folding schooner
> > > To:bolger@yahoogroups.com<mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Date: Wednesday, May 21, 2008, 8:37 PM
> > > Chris
> > >
> > > I don't have any photos but the chine connection is
> > > simply spectra
> > > line wrapped around aluminium "cleats" and then
> > > held under tension
> > > with a thick rubber shockcord (?bungee in the US)
> > > It self tensions and after a couple of waves is completely
> > > taut.
> > > We also had to add some bolts at the deck to take the
> > > stress off the
> > > hinges. We push it pretty hard.
> > >
> > > Peter
> > >
> > > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com<mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "Christopher C.
> > > Wetherill"
> > > <wetherillc@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Peter,
> > > >
> > > > Very nice sequence of the unfolding processes. I would
> > > be curious
> > > to see
> > > > detail pics of the latch.
> > > >
> > > > V/R
> > > > Chris
> > > >
> > > > Peter Kortlucke wrote:
> > > > > Hello everyone
> > > > >
> > > > > I've recently joined this group and noticed
> > > in the archives some
> > > > > discussion of photos of my folding schooner-
> > > actually co-owned
> > > with my
> > > > > brother. I've added a few extra photos in my
> > > album if anyone is
> > > > > interested.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or
> > > flogging dead horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> > > thanks, Fred' posts
> > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and
> > > snip away
> > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
> > > MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:bolger-unsubscribe%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > - Open discussion:
> > >bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe%40yahoogroups.com> Yahoo!
> > > Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.21/1457 - Release Date: 5/20/2008 4:45 PM
>
Hi Mike
I've added a couple of photos taken during construction- these may
explain the hinges and chine cleats.
Re the hinge mechanism, the aluminium tangs are longer than designed
as we added some camber to the deck (purely for aesthetic reasons)
and are connected simply with stainless bolts as the pivot pins.
Re the lower connection, spectra line is wrapped around the chine
cleats for a few turns and then taken to another cleat with a heavy
shockcord- you can just see it in one of the sailing photos (titled
15 knots etc)
Peter
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Michael Walther <michawalth3@...>
wrote:
pictures again please remember the hinges & connections, I personally
can't picture what you've written here (my failing) it takes pictures
for my brain to get some things:) Thanks for posting
the pix, Mike
I've added a couple of photos taken during construction- these may
explain the hinges and chine cleats.
Re the hinge mechanism, the aluminium tangs are longer than designed
as we added some camber to the deck (purely for aesthetic reasons)
and are connected simply with stainless bolts as the pivot pins.
Re the lower connection, spectra line is wrapped around the chine
cleats for a few turns and then taken to another cleat with a heavy
shockcord- you can just see it in one of the sailing photos (titled
15 knots etc)
Peter
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Michael Walther <michawalth3@...>
wrote:
>boat and seeing deployment was fascinating. When you decide to take
> Hi Peter, Ditto everything everybody has said, it's a beautiful
pictures again please remember the hinges & connections, I personally
can't picture what you've written here (my failing) it takes pictures
for my brain to get some things:) Thanks for posting
the pix, Mike
>
>
> --- On Wed, 5/21/08, Peter Kortlucke <pkortlucke@...> wrote:
>
> > From: Peter Kortlucke <pkortlucke@...>
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: Folding schooner
> > To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Wednesday, May 21, 2008, 8:37 PM
> > Chris
> >
> > I don't have any photos but the chine connection is
> > simply spectra
> > line wrapped around aluminium "cleats" and then
> > held under tension
> > with a thick rubber shockcord (?bungee in the US)
> > It self tensions and after a couple of waves is completely
> > taut.
> > We also had to add some bolts at the deck to take the
> > stress off the
> > hinges. We push it pretty hard.
> >
> > Peter
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Christopher C.
> > Wetherill"
> > <wetherillc@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Peter,
> > >
> > > Very nice sequence of the unfolding processes. I would
> > be curious
> > to see
> > > detail pics of the latch.
> > >
> > > V/R
> > > Chris
> > >
> > > Peter Kortlucke wrote:
> > > > Hello everyone
> > > >
> > > > I've recently joined this group and noticed
> > in the archives some
> > > > discussion of photos of my folding schooner-
> > actually co-owned
> > with my
> > > > brother. I've added a few extra photos in my
> > album if anyone is
> > > > interested.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or
> > flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> > thanks, Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and
> > snip away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
> > MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:
> >bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo!
> > Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
Hi Peter, Ditto everything everybody has said, it's a beautiful boat and seeing deployment was fascinating. When you decide to take pictures again please remember the hinges & connections, I personally can't picture what you've written here (my failing) it takes pictures for my brain to get some things:) Thanks for posting the pix, Mike
--- On Wed, 5/21/08, Peter Kortlucke <pkortlucke@...> wrote:
> From: Peter Kortlucke <pkortlucke@...>
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Folding schooner
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, May 21, 2008, 8:37 PM
> Chris
>
> I don't have any photos but the chine connection is
> simply spectra
> line wrapped around aluminium "cleats" and then
> held under tension
> with a thick rubber shockcord (?bungee in the US)
> It self tensions and after a couple of waves is completely
> taut.
> We also had to add some bolts at the deck to take the
> stress off the
> hinges. We push it pretty hard.
>
> Peter
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Christopher C.
> Wetherill"
> <wetherillc@...> wrote:
> >
> > Peter,
> >
> > Very nice sequence of the unfolding processes. I would
> be curious
> to see
> > detail pics of the latch.
> >
> > V/R
> > Chris
> >
> > Peter Kortlucke wrote:
> > > Hello everyone
> > >
> > > I've recently joined this group and noticed
> in the archives some
> > > discussion of photos of my folding schooner-
> actually co-owned
> with my
> > > brother. I've added a few extra photos in my
> album if anyone is
> > > interested.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or
> flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and
> snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
> MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:
>bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo!
> Groups Links
>
>
>
Chris
I don't have any photos but the chine connection is simply spectra
line wrapped around aluminium "cleats" and then held under tension
with a thick rubber shockcord (?bungee in the US)
It self tensions and after a couple of waves is completely taut.
We also had to add some bolts at the deck to take the stress off the
hinges. We push it pretty hard.
Peter
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Christopher C. Wetherill"
<wetherillc@...> wrote:
I don't have any photos but the chine connection is simply spectra
line wrapped around aluminium "cleats" and then held under tension
with a thick rubber shockcord (?bungee in the US)
It self tensions and after a couple of waves is completely taut.
We also had to add some bolts at the deck to take the stress off the
hinges. We push it pretty hard.
Peter
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Christopher C. Wetherill"
<wetherillc@...> wrote:
>to see
> Peter,
>
> Very nice sequence of the unfolding processes. I would be curious
> detail pics of the latch.with my
>
> V/R
> Chris
>
> Peter Kortlucke wrote:
> > Hello everyone
> >
> > I've recently joined this group and noticed in the archives some
> > discussion of photos of my folding schooner- actually co-owned
> > brother. I've added a few extra photos in my album if anyone is
> > interested.
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Peter,
Very nice sequence of the unfolding processes. I would be curious to see
detail pics of the latch.
V/R
Chris
Peter Kortlucke wrote:
Very nice sequence of the unfolding processes. I would be curious to see
detail pics of the latch.
V/R
Chris
Peter Kortlucke wrote:
> Hello everyone[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> I've recently joined this group and noticed in the archives some
> discussion of photos of my folding schooner- actually co-owned with my
> brother. I've added a few extra photos in my album if anyone is
> interested.
>
>
Peter, those are beautiful pics. She looks like a fun boat to sail. D
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Very nice boat. The action shots are great. She looks pretty fast.
Rick
----- Original Message ----
From: Peter Kortlucke <pkortlucke@...>
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 12:11:33 AM
Subject: [bolger] Folding schooner
Hello everyone
I've recently joined this group and noticed in the archives some
discussion of photos of my folding schooner- actually co-owned with my
brother. I've added a few extra photos in my album if anyone is
interested.
http://community. webshots. com/user/ phk58
<http://community. webshots. com/user/ phk58>
Peter
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Rick
----- Original Message ----
From: Peter Kortlucke <pkortlucke@...>
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 12:11:33 AM
Subject: [bolger] Folding schooner
Hello everyone
I've recently joined this group and noticed in the archives some
discussion of photos of my folding schooner- actually co-owned with my
brother. I've added a few extra photos in my album if anyone is
interested.
http://community. webshots. com/user/ phk58
<http://community. webshots. com/user/ phk58>
Peter
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hello everyone
I've recently joined this group and noticed in the archives some
discussion of photos of my folding schooner- actually co-owned with my
brother. I've added a few extra photos in my album if anyone is
interested.
http://community.webshots.com/user/phk58
<http://community.webshots.com/user/phk58>
Peter
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I've recently joined this group and noticed in the archives some
discussion of photos of my folding schooner- actually co-owned with my
brother. I've added a few extra photos in my album if anyone is
interested.
http://community.webshots.com/user/phk58
<http://community.webshots.com/user/phk58>
Peter
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]