Re: Work Skiff

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Scot McPherson <scot.mcpherson@...> wrote:
>
> David,
> I live in old Lyme, CT. I'd love to see your skiff sometime if you ever bring it down to LIS or I come up to say hello to your stripers up there. My step father is one of the most serious of amateur fisherman, abs he might enjoy a trip to striperville bay.
>
> Scot
>
> Scot McPherson, PMP CISSP MCSA
> Old Lyme, CT
>http://www.linkedin.com/in/scotmcpherson
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 20, 2012, at 12:17 PM, "dnjost" <davidjost@...> wrote:
>
> >
> > saw a couple last week on my trip out to Prudence Island. There is a large flat just north of the island that always has the tongers out scratching for quohags.
> >
> > the shelter is ideal for the winter months to prolong the season. The work skiff would be ideal for this kind of treatment and I am considering it if I move to more HP.
> >
> > david
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" <pvanderwaart@> wrote:
> > >
> > > > I have been thoroughly enjoying mine and have done all of
> > > > Narragansett Bay and Salem Sound this summer.
> > >
> > > I remember seeing an article long ago about a kind of flat-bottom skiff native to Narragansett Bay. A lot of them had a little shelter mid-ships for the driver. I always wondered if they were part of the inspiration for the Works Skiff.
> > >
> >
> >
>

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, <philbolger@...> wrote:
>
> Good thing we did this on our plans for the 18-foot WORK SKIFF ages ago...
>
> Susanne Altenburger
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: dnjost
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 12:17 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Work Skiff
>
>
>
>
> saw a couple last week on my trip out to Prudence Island. There is a large flat just north of the island that always has the tongers out scratching for quohags.
>
> the shelter is ideal for the winter months to prolong the season. The work skiff would be ideal for this kind of treatment and I am considering it if I move to more HP.
>
> david
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" <pvanderwaart@> wrote:
> >
> > > I have been thoroughly enjoying mine and have done all of
> > > Narragansett Bay and Salem Sound this summer.
> >
> > I remember seeing an article long ago about a kind of flat-bottom skiff native to Narragansett Bay. A lot of them had a little shelter mid-ships for the driver. I always wondered if they were part of the inspiration for the Works Skiff.
> >
>

----- Original Message -----

From:dnjost

To:bolger@yahoogroups.com

Sent:Monday, August 20, 2012 12:17 PM

Subject:[bolger] Re: Work Skiff

 

saw a couple last week on my trip out to Prudence Island. There is a large flat just north of the island that always has the tongers out scratching for quohags.

the shelter is ideal for the winter months to prolong the season. The work skiff would be ideal for this kind of treatment and I am considering it if I move to more HP.

david

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" <pvanderwaart@...> wrote:
>
> > I have been thoroughly enjoying mine and have done all of
> > Narragansett Bay and Salem Sound this summer.
>
> I remember seeing an article long ago about a kind of flat-bottom skiff native to Narragansett Bay. A lot of them had a little shelter mid-ships for the driver. I always wondered if they were part of the inspiration for the Works Skiff.
>

 

saw a couple last week on my trip out to Prudence Island. There is a large flat just north of the island that always has the tongers out scratching for quohags.

the shelter is ideal for the winter months to prolong the season. The work skiff would be ideal for this kind of treatment and I am considering it if I move to more HP.

david

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" <pvanderwaart@...> wrote:
>
> > I have been thoroughly enjoying mine and have done all of
> > Narragansett Bay and Salem Sound this summer.
>
> I remember seeing an article long ago about a kind of flat-bottom skiff native to Narragansett Bay. A lot of them had a little shelter mid-ships for the driver. I always wondered if they were part of the inspiration for the Works Skiff.
>

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" <pvanderwaart@...> wrote:
>
> > I have been thoroughly enjoying mine and have done all of
> > Narragansett Bay and Salem Sound this summer.
>
> I remember seeing an article long ago about a kind of flat-bottom skiff native to Narragansett Bay. A lot of them had a little shelter mid-ships for the driver. I always wondered if they were part of the inspiration for the Works Skiff.
>

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
> Nice build back at you, what is the horesepower on that Johnson. Whats
> the biggest load you have hauled. 5 pax has proved to put a load on the
> ancient 15 hp Yamaha on our set up coupled wit the shorter length.
>
> HJ
>
> On 8/15/2012 3:34 PM, dnjost wrote:
> > Nice build!
> >
> > I have been thoroughly enjoying mine and have done all of Narragansett Bay and Salem Sound this summer.https://picasaweb.google.com/113993921265997067486/BolgerWorkSkiff#
> >
> > Always contemplating the next project.
> >
> > David
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James<welshman@> wrote:
> >> I skipper a 70 year old classic yacht. I just hated the Zodiac on the
> >> back so I built a work skiff to replace it. Built it on 10" instead of
> >> 12" centers because it had to fit in 13'. The shortening did not seem to
> >> affect it other than accentuate those curves that are always in a Bolger
> >> design. I will insert as well as attach the pics.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> HJ
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, captainrocky@... wrote:
>
> Nice build. Any idea what it weighs? It looks sturdy enough to be an icebreaker in your NE winters!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: " dnjost " < davidjost @ verizon .net>
> To: bolger @ yahoogroups .com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 7:34:48 PM
> Subject: [ bolger ] Re: Work Skiff
>
> Â
>
>
>
>
>
> Nice build!
>
> I have been thoroughly enjoying mine and have done all of Narragansett Bay and Salem Sound this summer. https :// picasaweb . google .com/113993921265997067486/ BolgerWorkSkiff #
>
> Always contemplating the next project.
>
> David
>
> --- In bolger @ yahoogroups .com , Harry James < welshman @...> wrote:
> >
> > I skipper a 70 year old classic yacht. I just hated the Zodiac on the
> > back so I built a work skiff to replace it. Built it on 10" instead of
> > 12" centers because it had to fit in 13'. The shortening did not seem to
> > affect it other than accentuate those curves that are always in a Bolger
> > design. I will insert as well as attach the pics.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > HJ
> >
>

> I have been thoroughly enjoying mine and have done all of
> Narragansett Bay and Salem Sound this summer.

On 8/15/2012 3:34 PM, dnjost wrote:
> Nice build!
>
> I have been thoroughly enjoying mine and have done all of Narragansett Bay and Salem Sound this summer.https://picasaweb.google.com/113993921265997067486/BolgerWorkSkiff#
>
> Always contemplating the next project.
>
> David
>
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James<welshman@...> wrote:
>> I skipper a 70 year old classic yacht. I just hated the Zodiac on the
>> back so I built a work skiff to replace it. Built it on 10" instead of
>> 12" centers because it had to fit in 13'. The shortening did not seem to
>> affect it other than accentuate those curves that are always in a Bolger
>> design. I will insert as well as attach the pics.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> HJ
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
> I skipper a 70 year old classic yacht. I just hated the Zodiac on the
> back so I built a work skiff to replace it. Built it on 10" instead of
> 12" centers because it had to fit in 13'. The shortening did not seem to
> affect it other than accentuate those curves that are always in a Bolger
> design. I will insert as well as attach the pics.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> HJ
>

On 8/14/2012 3:05 PM, Christopher C. Wetherill wrote:

?

On 8/14/2012 2:10 PM, Harry James wrote:

boat buck

 

?

On 8/14/2012 2:10 PM, Harry James wrote:

boat buck

boat buck

You sure can

Plans $35 from Instant Boats

http://instantboats.com/

The plans plus a boat buck or a little more plus a winter of spare time and it is yours. Because I built it on 10" centers vice 12" I built the sides out of two layers of 1/4 to take the curve and I only had one layer of 1/2" on the bottom instead of 2 as it is more a yacht tender vice a work boat and the bottom didn't need to be that stout. The only other change is the slop well, seen too many boats sink with water over the transom. Got a fishfinder and down riggers for salmon trolling they all store in the nice big center seat along with the anchor and rollers to get her off the beach.

HJ





On 8/14/2012 5:28 AM, Scot Mc Pherson wrote:

Sweet boat. Can I have one?

 

Scot McPherson, PMP CISSP MCSA
Old Lyme, CT, USA
Le Claire, IA, USA
Scot McPherson | Linkedin

On Mon, Aug 13, 2012 at 1:22 PM, Harry James<welshman@...>wrote:

Went over 200lbs, would have made a great video of me and my 76 year old crew trying to get it up on the cutting table.

HJ

On 8/13/2012 6:49 AM, BruceHallman wrote:

Harry, someone left a pretty big halibut in your workskiff. Bruce

 

<mime-attachment.png>


HJ

On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 11:10 AM, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
> You sure can
>
> Plans $35 from Instant Boats
>
>http://instantboats.com/
>
> The plans plus a boat buck or a little more plus a winter of spare time and it is yours. Because I built it on 10" centers vice 12" I built the sides out of two layers of 1/4 to take the curve and I only had one layer of 1/2" on the bottom instead of 2 as it is more a yacht tender vice a work boat and the bottom didn't need to be that stout. The only other change is the slop well, seen too many boats sink with water over the transom. Got a fishfinder and down riggers for salmon trolling they all store in the nice big center seat along with the anchor and rollers to get her off the beach.
>
> HJ
>
>

On 8/14/2012 5:28 AM, Scot Mc Pherson wrote:

Sweet boat. Can I have one?

 

Scot McPherson, PMP CISSP MCSA
Old Lyme, CT, USA
Le Claire, IA, USA
Scot McPherson | Linkedin

On Mon, Aug 13, 2012 at 1:22 PM, Harry James<welshman@...>wrote:

Went over 200lbs, would have made a great video of me and my 76 year old crew trying to get it up on the cutting table.

HJ

On 8/13/2012 6:49 AM, BruceHallman wrote:

Harry, someone left a pretty big halibut in your workskiff. Bruce

 

HJ

On Mon, Aug 13, 2012 at 1:22 PM, Harry James<welshman@...>wrote:

Went over 200lbs, would have made a great video of me and my 76 year old crew trying to get it up on the cutting table.

HJ

On 8/13/2012 6:49 AM, BruceHallman wrote:

Harry, someone left a pretty big halibut in your workskiff. Bruce

HJ

On 8/13/2012 6:49 AM, BruceHallman wrote:

Harry, someone left a pretty big halibut in your workskiff. Bruce

 

HJ

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dnjost" <davidjost@...> wrote:
>
>
> yes. it is the 18' clam skiff. I put two saw horses in the middle, and laid the tarp on it. I fashioned a hem on the tarp out of carpet tape which has held up very well. I am betting that I could actually install better grommets by basting extra layers of tarp onto the cover at the stress points (like making the clew, head, and tack on a sail). The cover is attached to stakes in the ground, with a few trailer points. I think the pitch on the tarp is not steep enough.
>

----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@...>
Date: Sunday, May 25, 2008 9:08 am
Subject: Re: [bolger] Seattle late August
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com

> Hmm .. she probably won't be weeding just then -- she's actually
> getting
> married, as in "wedding".
>
> Patrick
>
> Patrick Crockett wrote:
> > I'll be in Seattle late August (22nd and 23rd) for my niece's
> weeding
> > and would love to look at some Bolger boats while I'm there.
> Anyone near
> > Seattle want to show off their boat?
> >
> > Pat Crockett
> >
> >
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> Did you ever finish the Tolman
> Seabright and launch it?

> Lots of folks would like to see a
> finished Tolman Seabright on the
> water with some numbers...

> I'll be in Seattle late August (22nd and 23rd) for my niece's weeding
> and would love to look at some Bolger boats while I'm there. Anyone near
> Seattle want to show off their boat?
>
> Pat Crockett
>
>

>> What about turbulance right in front of the outboard?
>>
>
>
> Clyde,
>
> This is one reason for making the aft end of the box keel a
> vertical knife edge -- so it will not create any
> turbulence:
>
>
>
>>> ... give the box keel a nice, smooth curve along its
>>> entire length -- and end it in a sharp edge aft -- not
>>> like a box which Bolger does with some of his other
>>> designs such as Hawkeye for example.
>>>
>
>
> Sincerely,
> Ken Grome
> Bagacay Boatworks
> www.bagacayboatworks.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> Clyde
>>
>> Kenneth Grome wrote:
>>
>>> Sam,
>>>
>>> If the design is input into FreeShip a box keel can be
>>> designed for the rockered bottom very easily, and the
>>> cutting patterns would make an almost perfect fit,
>>> which means installing it before or after the rest of
>>> the hull is built doesn't really matter a whole lot.
>>>
>>> If it were me, I would build it in while I was building
>>> the rest of the hull, then use it as a self-flooding
>>> ballast chamber. This will make the bottom much
>>> stronger and stiffer to begin with, and it will also
>>> give the boat more heft and momentum when under way --
>>> not to mention the extra initial stability created by
>>> all that water ballast in the box keel.
>>>
>>> The boat will feel much bigger and more substantial
>>> this way too, and less easily blown around by the wind.
>>>
>>> I don't think the seas of peas thing is very important
>>> here. The entire keel will be submerged so it's
>>> probably more important (efficiency wise) to give the
>>> box keel a nice, smooth curve along its entire length
>>> -- and end it in a sharp edge aft -- not like a box
>>> which Bolger does with some of his other designs such
>>> as Hawkeye for example.
>>>
>>> Give the box keel a double-ended shape (like a pirogue)
>>> and you'll have a very efficiently driven "big little
>>> boat" on your hands.
>>>
>>> :)
>>>
>>> Sincerely,
>>> Ken Grome
>>> Bagacay Boatworks
>>> www.bagacayboatworks.com
>>>
>>>
>>>> Ken, that's what I was thinking--may be easier to put
>>>> it in now, and open it up later. Tennessee, however,
>>>> has a moderately rockered bottom. I am thinking that
>>>> the box should be built to a "sea of peas" proportion
>>>> forward--that is, with depth and breadth increasing
>>>> in direct proportion from forward to aft. I am
>>>> wondering what the Redwing plans suggest.
>>>>
>>>> --- Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...
>>>>
>>> <mailto:bagacayboatworks%40gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>> It's a totally flat bottom with no rocker, isn't
>>>>> it? If so,
>>>>> I can't imagine any difficulty adding a box keel
>>>>> later when
>>>>> you actually need it. If you build it with the box
>>>>> keel
>>>>> now, you'll probably have to load it with water or
>>>>> sandbags
>>>>> or something else that's heavy -- to push the boat
>>>>> down to
>>>>> its lines and maintain enough initial stability for
>>>>> comfort
>>>>> and safety.
>>>>>
>>>>> Actually if you build the box keel now, you can
>>>>> turn it into
>>>>> a water ballast chamber -- self-flooding if you
>>>>> like --
>>>>> which would give the boat better initial stability
>>>>> as well
>>>>> as more momentum while under way. Then just "cut
>>>>> the top
>>>>> off" the box keel later and use it for batteries
>>>>> and motor
>>>>> when you're ready for the electrics.
>>>>>
>>>>> Sincerely,
>>>>> Ken Grome
>>>>> Bagacay Boatworks
>>>>> www.bagacayboatworks.com
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> I would eventually like to convert the boat to
>>>>>> electric propulsion and would like to be able to
>>>>>>
>>>>> get
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> the shaft and batteries down low. I'll probably
>>>>>>
>>>>> build
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> her per plans, but I have been taken with the
>>>>>>
>>>>> idea of
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> an electric inboard in a box keel for a long
>>>>>>
>>>>> time, and
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> want to at least think about whether it might be
>>>>>>
>>>>> worth
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> it to build from scratch rather than modify
>>>>>>
>>>>> later.
>>>>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

> What about turbulance right in front of the outboard?

> > ... give the box keel a nice, smooth curve along its
> > entire length -- and end it in a sharp edge aft -- not
> > like a box which Bolger does with some of his other
> > designs such as Hawkeye for example.

> Clyde
>
> Kenneth Grome wrote:
> > Sam,
> >
> > If the design is input into FreeShip a box keel can be
> > designed for the rockered bottom very easily, and the
> > cutting patterns would make an almost perfect fit,
> > which means installing it before or after the rest of
> > the hull is built doesn't really matter a whole lot.
> >
> > If it were me, I would build it in while I was building
> > the rest of the hull, then use it as a self-flooding
> > ballast chamber. This will make the bottom much
> > stronger and stiffer to begin with, and it will also
> > give the boat more heft and momentum when under way --
> > not to mention the extra initial stability created by
> > all that water ballast in the box keel.
> >
> > The boat will feel much bigger and more substantial
> > this way too, and less easily blown around by the wind.
> >
> > I don't think the seas of peas thing is very important
> > here. The entire keel will be submerged so it's
> > probably more important (efficiency wise) to give the
> > box keel a nice, smooth curve along its entire length
> > -- and end it in a sharp edge aft -- not like a box
> > which Bolger does with some of his other designs such
> > as Hawkeye for example.
> >
> > Give the box keel a double-ended shape (like a pirogue)
> > and you'll have a very efficiently driven "big little
> > boat" on your hands.
> >
> > :)
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > Ken Grome
> > Bagacay Boatworks
> > www.bagacayboatworks.com
> >
> > > Ken, that's what I was thinking--may be easier to put
> > > it in now, and open it up later. Tennessee, however,
> > > has a moderately rockered bottom. I am thinking that
> > > the box should be built to a "sea of peas" proportion
> > > forward--that is, with depth and breadth increasing
> > > in direct proportion from forward to aft. I am
> > > wondering what the Redwing plans suggest.
> > >
> > > --- Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...
> >
> > <mailto:bagacayboatworks%40gmail.com>> wrote:
> > > > It's a totally flat bottom with no rocker, isn't
> > > > it? If so,
> > > > I can't imagine any difficulty adding a box keel
> > > > later when
> > > > you actually need it. If you build it with the box
> > > > keel
> > > > now, you'll probably have to load it with water or
> > > > sandbags
> > > > or something else that's heavy -- to push the boat
> > > > down to
> > > > its lines and maintain enough initial stability for
> > > > comfort
> > > > and safety.
> > > >
> > > > Actually if you build the box keel now, you can
> > > > turn it into
> > > > a water ballast chamber -- self-flooding if you
> > > > like --
> > > > which would give the boat better initial stability
> > > > as well
> > > > as more momentum while under way. Then just "cut
> > > > the top
> > > > off" the box keel later and use it for batteries
> > > > and motor
> > > > when you're ready for the electrics.
> > > >
> > > > Sincerely,
> > > > Ken Grome
> > > > Bagacay Boatworks
> > > > www.bagacayboatworks.com
> > > >
> > > > > I would eventually like to convert the boat to
> > > > > electric propulsion and would like to be able to
> > > >
> > > > get
> > > >
> > > > > the shaft and batteries down low. I'll probably
> > > >
> > > > build
> > > >
> > > > > her per plans, but I have been taken with the
> > > >
> > > > idea of
> > > >
> > > > > an electric inboard in a box keel for a long
> > > >
> > > > time, and
> > > >
> > > > > want to at least think about whether it might be
> > > >
> > > > worth
> > > >
> > > > > it to build from scratch rather than modify
> > > >
> > > > later.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> Ken, that's what I was thinking--may be easier to put
> it in now, and open it up later. Tennessee, however,
> has a moderately rockered bottom. I am thinking that
> the box should be built to a "sea of peas" proportion
> forward--that is, with depth and breadth increasing in
> direct proportion from forward to aft. I am wondering
> what the Redwing plans suggest.
> --- Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...
> <mailto:bagacayboatworks%40gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> > It's a totally flat bottom with no rocker, isn't it?
> > If so,
> > I can't imagine any difficulty adding a box keel
> > later when
> > you actually need it. If you build it with the box
> > keel
> > now, you'll probably have to load it with water or
> > sandbags
> > or something else that's heavy -- to push the boat
> > down to
> > its lines and maintain enough initial stability for
> > comfort
> > and safety.
> >
> > Actually if you build the box keel now, you can turn
> > it into
> > a water ballast chamber -- self-flooding if you like
> > --
> > which would give the boat better initial stability
> > as well
> > as more momentum while under way. Then just "cut
> > the top
> > off" the box keel later and use it for batteries and
> > motor
> > when you're ready for the electrics.
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > Ken Grome
> > Bagacay Boatworks
> > www.bagacayboatworks.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > I would eventually like to convert the boat to
> > > electric propulsion and would like to be able to
> > get
> > > the shaft and batteries down low. I'll probably
> > build
> > > her per plans, but I have been taken with the
> > idea of
> > > an electric inboard in a box keel for a long
> > time, and
> > > want to at least think about whether it might be
> > worth
> > > it to build from scratch rather than modify
> > later.
> >
> >
> >
>
>

> Sam,
>
> If the design is input into FreeShip a box keel can be
> designed for the rockered bottom very easily, and the
> cutting patterns would make an almost perfect fit, which
> means installing it before or after the rest of the hull is
> built doesn't really matter a whole lot.
>
> If it were me, I would build it in while I was building the
> rest of the hull, then use it as a self-flooding ballast
> chamber. This will make the bottom much stronger and
> stiffer to begin with, and it will also give the boat more
> heft and momentum when under way -- not to mention the
> extra initial stability created by all that water ballast
> in the box keel.
>
> The boat will feel much bigger and more substantial this way
> too, and less easily blown around by the wind.
>
> I don't think the seas of peas thing is very important here.
> The entire keel will be submerged so it's probably more
> important (efficiency wise) to give the box keel a nice,
> smooth curve along its entire length -- and end it in a
> sharp edge aft -- not like a box which Bolger does with
> some of his other designs such as Hawkeye for example.
>
> Give the box keel a double-ended shape (like a pirogue) and
> you'll have a very efficiently driven "big little boat" on
> your hands.
>
> :)
>
> Sincerely,
> Ken Grome
> Bagacay Boatworks
> www.bagacayboatworks.com
>
> > Ken, that's what I was thinking--may be easier to put
> > it in now, and open it up later. Tennessee, however,
> > has a moderately rockered bottom. I am thinking that
> > the box should be built to a "sea of peas" proportion
> > forward--that is, with depth and breadth increasing in
> > direct proportion from forward to aft. I am wondering
> > what the Redwing plans suggest.
> >
> > --- Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...
> <mailto:bagacayboatworks%40gmail.com>> wrote:
> > > It's a totally flat bottom with no rocker, isn't it?
> > > If so,
> > > I can't imagine any difficulty adding a box keel
> > > later when
> > > you actually need it. If you build it with the box
> > > keel
> > > now, you'll probably have to load it with water or
> > > sandbags
> > > or something else that's heavy -- to push the boat
> > > down to
> > > its lines and maintain enough initial stability for
> > > comfort
> > > and safety.
> > >
> > > Actually if you build the box keel now, you can turn
> > > it into
> > > a water ballast chamber -- self-flooding if you like
> > > --
> > > which would give the boat better initial stability
> > > as well
> > > as more momentum while under way. Then just "cut
> > > the top
> > > off" the box keel later and use it for batteries and
> > > motor
> > > when you're ready for the electrics.
> > >
> > > Sincerely,
> > > Ken Grome
> > > Bagacay Boatworks
> > > www.bagacayboatworks.com
> > >
> > > > I would eventually like to convert the boat to
> > > > electric propulsion and would like to be able to
> > >
> > > get
> > >
> > > > the shaft and batteries down low. I'll probably
> > >
> > > build
> > >
> > > > her per plans, but I have been taken with the
> > >
> > > idea of
> > >
> > > > an electric inboard in a box keel for a long
> > >
> > > time, and
> > >
> > > > want to at least think about whether it might be
> > >
> > > worth
> > >
> > > > it to build from scratch rather than modify
> > >
> > > later.
>
>

> You know there are some drawings of Bonefish in the photos and I would
> think the keel that is used on Bonefish would be what you would want
> to use on an inboard Work Skiff.
>
> When you get ready to make it electric powered don't use V belts. You
> will be better off using cleated belts, they have less power loss. V
> belts can take up to 3/4 KW of your drive power and in so doing your
> range will also be less. They also don't slip if they get wet.
>
> Blessings all Krissie
> > I would eventually like to convert the boat to
> > electric propulsion and would like to be able to get
> > the shaft and batteries down low. I'll probably build
> > her per plans, but I have been taken with the idea of
> > an electric inboard in a box keel for a long time, and
> > want to at least think about whether it might be worth
> > it to build from scratch rather than modify later.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

> Clyde, I have no useful advice. But please keep us
> informed as to how it turns out--I have been
> considering a box keel on a Tennessee. How does KS
> configure the box on the Redwing 21?
> --- Clyde Wisner <clydewis@...<mailto:clydewis%40carr.org>> wrote:
>
> > I have been talking to Karl Stambaugh at Chesapeak
> > Marine Design(email)
> > about a redwing 21. I was interested in a deadrise
> >
>
>
>
>

>> Ken, it would certainly stiffen her and be easier to
>> do in the initial phase. I have got to learn to do
>> FreeShip, I guess, although it would be easy enough to
>> loft.
>>
>
> No need for the software if you can loft it ... :)
>
>
>
>> I am wondering whether the forward rocker
>> should be increased to bring the bottom at the bow
>> well clear of the water, and allow the forward part of
>> the box to act as a cutwater, with sea of peas
>> proportions.
>>
>
> I haven't looked at the design lately, so I won't comment at
> this time. If you have some line drawings or know where I
> can get them online I can take a look at it and give you my
> opinion, for whatever it's worth -- probably not much, but
> hey, you get what you pay for ... :)
>
>
> Sincerely,
> Ken Grome
> Bagacay Boatworks
> www.bagacayboatworks.com
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
>

> Ken, it would certainly stiffen her and be easier to
> do in the initial phase. I have got to learn to do
> FreeShip, I guess, although it would be easy enough to
> loft.

> I am wondering whether the forward rocker
> should be increased to bring the bottom at the bow
> well clear of the water, and allow the forward part of
> the box to act as a cutwater, with sea of peas
> proportions.

>
> In the early years of boat drag racing a fellow I grew up with decided
> to build a dragboat and I helped him some. the boat was vee bottomed
> forward and nearly flat across her stern. The first mistake we made was
> to put a third as much area in front of the rudder post as there was aft
> on the rudder itself, a balanced rudder we thought. This was thought to
> be a kind of rule of thumb at least for slower boats but a disaster at
> higher speed. She jerked the wheel out of my hand when I tried to turn
> her. My friend, her owner, was aft messing with the carburetors and was
> thrown over board. We fixed the rudder.
> She had no skeg and was really squirrelly running straight and
> absolutely dangerous in a turn. She would slide sideways and then dig
> in. This was at 40 miles per hour. It didn't matter much as drag
> racing had no turns to make and she turned alright at 10 mph.
> When he found out he couldn't keep up with the speed improvements
> out of his own pocket he gave up drag racing and wanted to play with her
> on the river. The turning there was a problem. He put a long skeg on her
> but it was too big we guessed. She still turned flat on the water and
> sometimes dug a chine in but was much less violent. One problem seemed
> to be that the engine needed to slide her stern sideways to turn and the
> engine lugged down slowing her. At least that was our thinking at the
> time.
> One of the more experienced racers told us she was tripping over
> her keel. A common problem with a large skeg he said. We shortened the
> keel lengthwise and she was better, we shortened even more until the
> skeg was only about a foot long and a couple of inches shallower and
> that seemed to cure the problem.
> My thinking with the box keel was that that kind of keel might do
> very well at hull speeds but cause turning problems when plaining at 18
> knots.
> There is a good possibility that there were hull shape problems
> as we designed the hull by the seat of our pants though I guess we had a
> fair idea of what she ought to look like. We may have been
> trying to cure a hull shape problem with a skeg!!
>
> Doug
> graeme19121984 wrote:
> >
> > > The boyancy of a box keel I believe causes a boat to have less
> > > stability.
> >
> > I don't know about that increased risk of tripping, could be, but agree
> > that similar to an unballasted dory the box-keel sharpies are initially
> > more tender than regular sharpies.
> >
> > In some examples the box keel shifts the sharpie displacement from the
> > middle out to the ends. This allows higher speed through preventing the
> > more burdensome type of hull bogging down in its own waves. The box
> > keel has a finer bow half-angle than the hull proper, and this too
> > reduces wavemaking. The finer bow will also be less slowed by oncoming
> > waves and chop.
> >
> > However, in most ways other than at the bow and stern, the addittion of
> > a box keel to a sharpie hull turns the hull effectively into a dory. It
> > mightn't look much like a dory in cross section, but it behaves like
> > one. Witness the Gloucester Yawl for example, the design where Bolger
> > published his sharpie flow theory. The Gloucester Yawl is, depending on
> > how you want to look at it, a narrow sharpie with added sponsons, or a
> > sharpie with a box keel! Key hull measurements correspond almost
> > exactly in all respects to those of the Long Dory. Proportionally the
> > measurments similarly correspond to those of the tender Gloucester
> > Gull, aka Light Dory! It can only have stability characteristics that
> > are similar - ie tenderness! (It stands to reason that with plumb upper
> > topsides it would be wetter though - and GY was reported as a wet ride!)
> >
> > Graeme
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com<mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > Douglas Pollard <Dougpol1@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Seems to me like the box keel might increase the chances of tripping
> > > over a chine as the deeper keel and it's boyancy would seem to heel
> > the
> > > boat over in a turn and drop the keel in the water. The boyancy of a
> > > box keel I believe causes a boat to have less stability.
> > >
> > Doug
> >
> >
>
>

>
> > The boyancy of a box keel I believe causes a boat to have less
> > stability.
>
> I don't know about that increased risk of tripping, could be, but agree
> that similar to an unballasted dory the box-keel sharpies are initially
> more tender than regular sharpies.
>
> In some examples the box keel shifts the sharpie displacement from the
> middle out to the ends. This allows higher speed through preventing the
> more burdensome type of hull bogging down in its own waves. The box
> keel has a finer bow half-angle than the hull proper, and this too
> reduces wavemaking. The finer bow will also be less slowed by oncoming
> waves and chop.
>
> However, in most ways other than at the bow and stern, the addittion of
> a box keel to a sharpie hull turns the hull effectively into a dory. It
> mightn't look much like a dory in cross section, but it behaves like
> one. Witness the Gloucester Yawl for example, the design where Bolger
> published his sharpie flow theory. The Gloucester Yawl is, depending on
> how you want to look at it, a narrow sharpie with added sponsons, or a
> sharpie with a box keel! Key hull measurements correspond almost
> exactly in all respects to those of the Long Dory. Proportionally the
> measurments similarly correspond to those of the tender Gloucester
> Gull, aka Light Dory! It can only have stability characteristics that
> are similar - ie tenderness! (It stands to reason that with plumb upper
> topsides it would be wetter though - and GY was reported as a wet ride!)
>
> Graeme
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com<mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>,
> Douglas Pollard <Dougpol1@...> wrote:
> >
> > Seems to me like the box keel might increase the chances of tripping
> > over a chine as the deeper keel and it's boyancy would seem to heel
> the
> > boat over in a turn and drop the keel in the water. The boyancy of a
> > box keel I believe causes a boat to have less stability.
> >
> Doug
>
>

> Sam,
>
> If the design is input into FreeShip a box keel can
> be
> designed for the rockered bottom very easily, and
> the
> cutting patterns would make an almost perfect fit,
> which
> means installing it before or after the rest of the
> hull is
> built doesn't really matter a whole lot.
>
> If it were me, I would build it in while I was
> building the
> rest of the hull, then use it as a self-flooding
> ballast
> chamber. This will make the bottom much stronger
> and
> stiffer to begin with, and it will also give the
> boat more
> heft and momentum when under way -- not to mention
> the
> extra initial stability created by all that water
> ballast
> in the box keel.
>
> The boat will feel much bigger and more substantial
> this way
> too, and less easily blown around by the wind.
>
> I don't think the seas of peas thing is very
> important here.
> The entire keel will be submerged so it's probably
> more
> important (efficiency wise) to give the box keel a
> nice,
> smooth curve along its entire length -- and end it
> in a
> sharp edge aft -- not like a box which Bolger does
> with
> some of his other designs such as Hawkeye for
> example.
>
> Give the box keel a double-ended shape (like a
> pirogue) and
> you'll have a very efficiently driven "big little
> boat" on
> your hands.
>
> :)
>
> Sincerely,
> Ken Grome
> Bagacay Boatworks
> www.bagacayboatworks.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Ken, that's what I was thinking--may be easier to
> put
> > it in now, and open it up later. Tennessee,
> however,
> > has a moderately rockered bottom. I am thinking
> that
> > the box should be built to a "sea of peas"
> proportion
> > forward--that is, with depth and breadth
> increasing in
> > direct proportion from forward to aft. I am
> wondering
> > what the Redwing plans suggest.
> >
> > --- Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...>
> wrote:
> > > It's a totally flat bottom with no rocker, isn't
> it?
> > > If so,
> > > I can't imagine any difficulty adding a box keel
> > > later when
> > > you actually need it. If you build it with the
> box
> > > keel
> > > now, you'll probably have to load it with water
> or
> > > sandbags
> > > or something else that's heavy -- to push the
> boat
> > > down to
> > > its lines and maintain enough initial stability
> for
> > > comfort
> > > and safety.
> > >
> > > Actually if you build the box keel now, you can
> turn
> > > it into
> > > a water ballast chamber -- self-flooding if you
> like
> > > --
> > > which would give the boat better initial
> stability
> > > as well
> > > as more momentum while under way. Then just
> "cut
> > > the top
> > > off" the box keel later and use it for batteries
> and
> > > motor
> > > when you're ready for the electrics.
> > >
> > > Sincerely,
> > > Ken Grome
> > > Bagacay Boatworks
> > > www.bagacayboatworks.com
> > >
> > > > I would eventually like to convert the boat to
> > > > electric propulsion and would like to be able
> to
> > >
> > > get
> > >
> > > > the shaft and batteries down low. I'll
> probably
> > >
> > > build
> > >
> > > > her per plans, but I have been taken with the
> > >
> > > idea of
> > >
> > > > an electric inboard in a box keel for a long
> > >
> > > time, and
> > >
> > > > want to at least think about whether it might
> be
> > >
> > > worth
> > >
> > > > it to build from scratch rather than modify
> > >
> > > later.
>
>
>

> The boyancy of a box keel I believe causes a boat to have less
> stability.

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Douglas Pollard <Dougpol1@...> wrote:
>
> Seems to me like the box keel might increase the chances of tripping
> over a chine as the deeper keel and it's boyancy would seem to heel
the
> boat over in a turn and drop the keel in the water. The boyancy of a
> box keel I believe causes a boat to have less stability.
>
Doug

> Ken, that's what I was thinking--may be easier to put
> it in now, and open it up later. Tennessee, however,
> has a moderately rockered bottom. I am thinking that
> the box should be built to a "sea of peas" proportion
> forward--that is, with depth and breadth increasing in
> direct proportion from forward to aft. I am wondering
> what the Redwing plans suggest.
>
> --- Kenneth Grome <bagacayboatworks@...> wrote:
> > It's a totally flat bottom with no rocker, isn't it?
> > If so,
> > I can't imagine any difficulty adding a box keel
> > later when
> > you actually need it. If you build it with the box
> > keel
> > now, you'll probably have to load it with water or
> > sandbags
> > or something else that's heavy -- to push the boat
> > down to
> > its lines and maintain enough initial stability for
> > comfort
> > and safety.
> >
> > Actually if you build the box keel now, you can turn
> > it into
> > a water ballast chamber -- self-flooding if you like
> > --
> > which would give the boat better initial stability
> > as well
> > as more momentum while under way. Then just "cut
> > the top
> > off" the box keel later and use it for batteries and
> > motor
> > when you're ready for the electrics.
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > Ken Grome
> > Bagacay Boatworks
> > www.bagacayboatworks.com
> >
> > > I would eventually like to convert the boat to
> > > electric propulsion and would like to be able to
> >
> > get
> >
> > > the shaft and batteries down low. I'll probably
> >
> > build
> >
> > > her per plans, but I have been taken with the
> >
> > idea of
> >
> > > an electric inboard in a box keel for a long
> >
> > time, and
> >
> > > want to at least think about whether it might be
> >
> > worth
> >
> > > it to build from scratch rather than modify
> >
> > later.

> I would eventually like to convert the boat to
> electric propulsion and would like to be able to get
> the shaft and batteries down low. I'll probably build
> her per plans, but I have been taken with the idea of
> an electric inboard in a box keel for a long time, and
> want to at least think about whether it might be worth
> it to build from scratch rather than modify later.

> It's a totally flat bottom with no rocker, isn't it?
> If so,
> I can't imagine any difficulty adding a box keel
> later when
> you actually need it. If you build it with the box
> keel
> now, you'll probably have to load it with water or
> sandbags
> or something else that's heavy -- to push the boat
> down to
> its lines and maintain enough initial stability for
> comfort
> and safety.
>
> Actually if you build the box keel now, you can turn
> it into
> a water ballast chamber -- self-flooding if you like
> --
> which would give the boat better initial stability
> as well
> as more momentum while under way. Then just "cut
> the top
> off" the box keel later and use it for batteries and
> motor
> when you're ready for the electrics.
>
> Sincerely,
> Ken Grome
> Bagacay Boatworks
> www.bagacayboatworks.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > I would eventually like to convert the boat to
> > electric propulsion and would like to be able to
> get
> > the shaft and batteries down low. I'll probably
> build
> > her per plans, but I have been taken with the
> idea of
> > an electric inboard in a box keel for a long
> time, and
> > want to at least think about whether it might be
> worth
> > it to build from scratch rather than modify
> later.
>
>
>

> I would eventually like to convert the boat to
> electric propulsion and would like to be able to get
> the shaft and batteries down low. I'll probably build
> her per plans, but I have been taken with the idea of
> an electric inboard in a box keel for a long time, and
> want to at least think about whether it might be worth
> it to build from scratch rather than modify later.

>
> I will agree it is complicating a simple design. In regards to speed; as
> time goes by and the carburetor cleans itself out on the 25 hp four stroke
> it turns better rpm's. I have purchased a stainless prop meant for the
> Yamaha and now frequently see 16 and 17 mph. (I see very little use in
> knots when running inshore). On occasion I catch myself turning the Esther
> Mae to quickly at top speed and thoughts of tripping on the chine have
> entered my head, not that I have come close to doing so, but the
> specter is
> there.
>
> I could see where the box keel would 1) prevent the tripping, and 2)
> reduce
> the pounding while running and at rest.
>
> Caloosarat
>
> _____
>
> From:bolger@yahoogroups.com<mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com<mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>] On
> Behalf Of
> Sam Glasscock
> Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 4:01 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com<mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Work Skiff
>
> I would eventually like to convert the boat to
> electric propulsion and would like to be able to get
> the shaft and batteries down low. I'll probably build
> her per plans, but I have been taken with the idea of
> an electric inboard in a box keel for a long time, and
> want to at least think about whether it might be worth
> it to build from scratch rather than modify later.
> The plan would be to have the weight of the batteries
> offset the increase in buoyancy from the box.
> --- Harry James <welshman@ptialaska. <mailto:welshman%40ptialaska.net>
> net>
> wrote:
>
> > What would be your reason for a box keel on a
> > Tennessee? Most owners
> > seem to agree that it tops out at 10 kts. It would
> > seem that you would
> > complicating a very simple design.
> >
> > HJ
> >
> > Sam Glasscock wrote:
> > > Clyde, I have no useful advice. But please keep
> > us
> > > informed as to how it turns out--I have been
> > > considering a box keel on a Tennessee. How does
> > KS
> > > configure the box on the Redwing 21?
> > > --- Clyde Wisner <clydewis@carr. <mailto:clydewis%40carr.org> org>
> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >> I have been talking to Karl Stambaugh at
> > Chesapeak
> > >> Marine Design(email)
> > >> about a redwing 21. I was interested in a
> > deadrise
> > >> bottom design that he
> > >> offered at one time. Interesting, he sent me a
> > >> discussion or proposal of
> > >> his, in which he says that a box keel has the
> > same
> > >> effect on a flat
> > >> bottm or rockered flat bottom boat as
> > >> deadrise(moderate V). He makes a
> > >> good case for it and I bought the plans. In
> > thinking
> > >> about it, I
> > >> realized I am looking at 35 or 40 sheets of half
> > >> inch ply etc. About $50
> > >> per sheet for meranti, sooo I decided to try the
> > >> concept on a work skiff
> > >> with about 15 sheets of ply. I think I can just
> > >> deepen the shoe( 4-6
> > >> inches) and tapper at the stern, to see if it
> > works.
> > >> In "BWAOM" PCB kind
> > >> of eludes to a cutwater on the Skiff. Anybody
> > seen
> > >> one of these or have
> > >> any ideas? Clyde
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>

> What would be your reason for a box keel on a
> Tennessee? Most owners
> seem to agree that it tops out at 10 kts. It would
> seem that you would
> complicating a very simple design.
>
> HJ
>
> Sam Glasscock wrote:
> > Clyde, I have no useful advice. But please keep
> us
> > informed as to how it turns out--I have been
> > considering a box keel on a Tennessee. How does
> KS
> > configure the box on the Redwing 21?
> > --- Clyde Wisner <clydewis@carr. <mailto:clydewis%40carr.org> org>

> >
> >
> >> I have been talking to Karl Stambaugh at
> Chesapeak
> >> Marine Design(email)
> >> about a redwing 21. I was interested in a
> deadrise
> >> bottom design that he
> >> offered at one time. Interesting, he sent me a
> >> discussion or proposal of
> >> his, in which he says that a box keel has the
> same
> >> effect on a flat
> >> bottm or rockered flat bottom boat as
> >> deadrise(moderate V). He makes a
> >> good case for it and I bought the plans. In
> thinking
> >> about it, I
> >> realized I am looking at 35 or 40 sheets of half
> >> inch ply etc. About $50
> >> per sheet for meranti, sooo I decided to try the
> >> concept on a work skiff
> >> with about 15 sheets of ply. I think I can just
> >> deepen the shoe( 4-6
> >> inches) and tapper at the stern, to see if it
> works.
> >> In "BWAOM" PCB kind
> >> of eludes to a cutwater on the Skiff. Anybody
> seen
> >> one of these or have
> >> any ideas? Clyde
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

> Clyde, I have no useful advice. But please keep us
> informed as to how it turns out--I have been
> considering a box keel on a Tennessee. How does KS
> configure the box on the Redwing 21?
> --- Clyde Wisner <clydewis@...> wrote:
>
>
>> I have been talking to Karl Stambaugh at Chesapeak
>> Marine Design(email)
>> about a redwing 21. I was interested in a deadrise
>> bottom design that he
>> offered at one time. Interesting, he sent me a
>> discussion or proposal of
>> his, in which he says that a box keel has the same
>> effect on a flat
>> bottm or rockered flat bottom boat as
>> deadrise(moderate V). He makes a
>> good case for it and I bought the plans. In thinking
>> about it, I
>> realized I am looking at 35 or 40 sheets of half
>> inch ply etc. About $50
>> per sheet for meranti, sooo I decided to try the
>> concept on a work skiff
>> with about 15 sheets of ply. I think I can just
>> deepen the shoe( 4-6
>> inches) and tapper at the stern, to see if it works.
>> In "BWAOM" PCB kind
>> of eludes to a cutwater on the Skiff. Anybody seen
>> one of these or have
>> any ideas? Clyde
>>
>>
>
>
>
>

> What would be your reason for a box keel on a
> Tennessee? Most owners
> seem to agree that it tops out at 10 kts. It would
> seem that you would
> complicating a very simple design.
>
> HJ
>
> Sam Glasscock wrote:
> > Clyde, I have no useful advice. But please keep
> us
> > informed as to how it turns out--I have been
> > considering a box keel on a Tennessee. How does
> KS
> > configure the box on the Redwing 21?
> > --- Clyde Wisner <clydewis@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> >> I have been talking to Karl Stambaugh at
> Chesapeak
> >> Marine Design(email)
> >> about a redwing 21. I was interested in a
> deadrise
> >> bottom design that he
> >> offered at one time. Interesting, he sent me a
> >> discussion or proposal of
> >> his, in which he says that a box keel has the
> same
> >> effect on a flat
> >> bottm or rockered flat bottom boat as
> >> deadrise(moderate V). He makes a
> >> good case for it and I bought the plans. In
> thinking
> >> about it, I
> >> realized I am looking at 35 or 40 sheets of half
> >> inch ply etc. About $50
> >> per sheet for meranti, sooo I decided to try the
> >> concept on a work skiff
> >> with about 15 sheets of ply. I think I can just
> >> deepen the shoe( 4-6
> >> inches) and tapper at the stern, to see if it
> works.
> >> In "BWAOM" PCB kind
> >> of eludes to a cutwater on the Skiff. Anybody
> seen
> >> one of these or have
> >> any ideas? Clyde
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

> I have been talking to Karl Stambaugh at Chesapeak Marine
> Design(email) about a redwing 21. I was interested in a
> deadrise bottom design that he offered at one time.
> Interesting, he sent me a discussion or proposal of his,
> in which he says that a box keel has the same effect on a
> flat bottm or rockered flat bottom boat as
> deadrise(moderate V). He makes a good case for it and I
> bought the plans. In thinking about it, I realized I am
> looking at 35 or 40 sheets of half inch ply etc. About
> $50 per sheet for meranti, sooo I decided to try the
> concept on a work skiff with about 15 sheets of ply. I
> think I can just deepen the shoe( 4-6 inches) and tapper
> at the stern, to see if it works. In "BWAOM" PCB kind of
> eludes to a cutwater on the Skiff. Anybody seen one of
> these or have any ideas? Clyde

> I have been talking to Karl Stambaugh at Chesapeak
> Marine Design(email)
> about a redwing 21. I was interested in a deadrise
> bottom design that he
> offered at one time. Interesting, he sent me a
> discussion or proposal of
> his, in which he says that a box keel has the same
> effect on a flat
> bottm or rockered flat bottom boat as
> deadrise(moderate V). He makes a
> good case for it and I bought the plans. In thinking
> about it, I
> realized I am looking at 35 or 40 sheets of half
> inch ply etc. About $50
> per sheet for meranti, sooo I decided to try the
> concept on a work skiff
> with about 15 sheets of ply. I think I can just
> deepen the shoe( 4-6
> inches) and tapper at the stern, to see if it works.
> In "BWAOM" PCB kind
> of eludes to a cutwater on the Skiff. Anybody seen
> one of these or have
> any ideas? Clyde
>