Re: Polyester resin questions
I will try to make it simple for you also old coot. HDo not MDO for
horse traler. MDO only for boat building. What you call Queens barge is
what I call T.S. Neverland (Tinks Ship) the shop is geting a new roof
to stand up to clobal cooling. The lightning is getting there slowly.
Now tell us about that PDR you have a big sail for and have been
working on how many years.
Jon
Sorry folks we be on the other sides of the Columbia from each other
and are both slow at times.LOL
horse traler. MDO only for boat building. What you call Queens barge is
what I call T.S. Neverland (Tinks Ship) the shop is geting a new roof
to stand up to clobal cooling. The lightning is getting there slowly.
Now tell us about that PDR you have a big sail for and have been
working on how many years.
Jon
Sorry folks we be on the other sides of the Columbia from each other
and are both slow at times.LOL
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "David" <arbordg@...> wrote:
>
> Hey you Ol' Coot -
>
> Beer? I don't remember drinking any beer? Maybe all the slow brain
> cells have already expired, and now the rest are being nibbled
> away?!?! Anyway, I do remember you didn't answer the question. Were
> you really recommending HDO, or was it a typo, and you really meant
> MDO? If HDO, tell me more. How does the joinery work? Adhesives? Etc.
>
> OK, you also didn't answer if the Queen's barge is done yet, so I
> guess it's a case of "We don't want to discuss it" <G> How 'bout that
> purty little rocket you're restoring?
>
> Cheers,
> David G.
Hey you Ol' Coot -
Beer? I don't remember drinking any beer? Maybe all the slow brain
cells have already expired, and now the rest are being nibbled
away?!?! Anyway, I do remember you didn't answer the question. Were
you really recommending HDO, or was it a typo, and you really meant
MDO? If HDO, tell me more. How does the joinery work? Adhesives? Etc.
OK, you also didn't answer if the Queen's barge is done yet, so I
guess it's a case of "We don't want to discuss it" <G> How 'bout that
purty little rocket you're restoring?
Cheers,
David G.
"May the good Lord take a liking to you... just not too soon"
************
Beer? I don't remember drinking any beer? Maybe all the slow brain
cells have already expired, and now the rest are being nibbled
away?!?! Anyway, I do remember you didn't answer the question. Were
you really recommending HDO, or was it a typo, and you really meant
MDO? If HDO, tell me more. How does the joinery work? Adhesives? Etc.
OK, you also didn't answer if the Queen's barge is done yet, so I
guess it's a case of "We don't want to discuss it" <G> How 'bout that
purty little rocket you're restoring?
Cheers,
David G.
"May the good Lord take a liking to you... just not too soon"
************
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jon & Wanda(Tink)" <windyjon@...> wrote:
>
> You should know by now just because it is a boat sight if I am involved
> it may not have to do with boats. It started with asking about useing
> MDO with polyester for sides on a horse trailer. I thought all that
> beer sampeling was to kill the slow brain cells LOL
>
> Jon
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "David" <arbordg@> wrote:
> >
> > Jon,
> >
> > I too am confused. Were you suggesting HDO... or MDO? While there's
> > lots of boats been built with MDO, I've never heard of one being built
> > with HDO. What did you have in mind?
> >
> > Is Cleopatra's Barge done yet<G>?
> >
> > Cheers,
> > David G
> >
> > "If there are no stupid questions, what kind of questions do stupid
> > people ask? Do they get smart just in time to ask questions?" -- Scott
> > Adams
>
You should know by now just because it is a boat sight if I am involved
it may not have to do with boats. It started with asking about useing
MDO with polyester for sides on a horse trailer. I thought all that
beer sampeling was to kill the slow brain cells LOL
Jon
it may not have to do with boats. It started with asking about useing
MDO with polyester for sides on a horse trailer. I thought all that
beer sampeling was to kill the slow brain cells LOL
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "David" <arbordg@...> wrote:
>
> Jon,
>
> I too am confused. Were you suggesting HDO... or MDO? While there's
> lots of boats been built with MDO, I've never heard of one being built
> with HDO. What did you have in mind?
>
> Is Cleopatra's Barge done yet<G>?
>
> Cheers,
> David G
>
> "If there are no stupid questions, what kind of questions do stupid
> people ask? Do they get smart just in time to ask questions?" -- Scott
> Adams
Jon,
I too am confused. Were you suggesting HDO... or MDO? While there's
lots of boats been built with MDO, I've never heard of one being built
with HDO. What did you have in mind?
Is Cleopatra's Barge done yet<G>?
Cheers,
David G
"If there are no stupid questions, what kind of questions do stupid
people ask? Do they get smart just in time to ask questions?" -- Scott
Adams
***********
I too am confused. Were you suggesting HDO... or MDO? While there's
lots of boats been built with MDO, I've never heard of one being built
with HDO. What did you have in mind?
Is Cleopatra's Barge done yet<G>?
Cheers,
David G
"If there are no stupid questions, what kind of questions do stupid
people ask? Do they get smart just in time to ask questions?" -- Scott
Adams
***********
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Giuliano Girometta <ggboat1@...> wrote:
>
> Hi John,
> Sorry for my lack of knowledge, I was not aware that there is also
such type of HDO. The only one I was aware so far was the one with a
non stick coating commonly used for concrete forms.
>
> Giuliano
>
> --- On Mon, 7/28/08, Jon & Wanda(Tink) <windyjon@...> wrote:
>
> From: Jon & Wanda(Tink) <windyjon@...>
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Polyester resin questions
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Monday, July 28, 2008, 4:36 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> HDO is not treated when new contractors that use it for cement forms
> treat it them selfs normaly with diesal oil. New it has a thicker
> harder smoth overlay used commenly for 18 wheel trailer beds. To
> paint it it needs sanded to get some bite but would not need epoxy or
> poly coating to last 20 years as sides on a horse trailer.
>
> Jon
>
> --- In bolger@yahoogroups. com, Giuliano Girometta <ggboat1@ > wrote:
> >
> > Be carefull with the HDO made for forms, is not the same thing as
> MDO. The stuff made for forms is treated with a releasing agent that
> prevent concrete and other stuff poured into to stick to the surface.
> Therefore one day all the job may come apart.
> >
> > Giuliano
> >
> > --- On Sat, 7/26/08, Jon & Wanda(Tink) <windyjon@ .> wrote:
> >
> > From: Jon & Wanda(Tink) <windyjon@ .>
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: Polyester resin questions
> > To: bolger@yahoogroups. com
> > Date: Saturday, July 26, 2008, 7:54 AM
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Rather then going through all that why not just use HDO it is a
> well
> > glued plywood used for foundation forms and semi trailer beds.
> Realy
> > tough stuff and won't need painted just edge sealed.
> >
> > Jon
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
It is non stick from the standpoint it is not enbosed and smoth as well
as more glue to make it harder. Releas agents from old oil to what ever
are sprayed on before pouring cement. Lack of working knowlage is what
we are here for filling in. Was a time I didn't want the knowlage when
it comes to the hard work that goes with it so I changed jobs.
Jon
as more glue to make it harder. Releas agents from old oil to what ever
are sprayed on before pouring cement. Lack of working knowlage is what
we are here for filling in. Was a time I didn't want the knowlage when
it comes to the hard work that goes with it so I changed jobs.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Giuliano Girometta <ggboat1@...> wrote:
>
> Hi John,
> Sorry for my lack of knowledge, I was not aware that there is also
such type of HDO. The only one I was aware so far was the one with a
non stick coating commonly used for concrete forms.
>
> Giuliano
Hi John,
Sorry for my lack of knowledge, I was not aware that there is also such type of HDO. The only one I was aware so far was the one with a non stick coating commonly used for concrete forms.
Giuliano
Sorry for my lack of knowledge, I was not aware that there is also such type of HDO. The only one I was aware so far was the one with a non stick coating commonly used for concrete forms.
Giuliano
--- On Mon, 7/28/08, Jon & Wanda(Tink) <windyjon@...> wrote:
From: Jon & Wanda(Tink) <windyjon@...>
Subject: [bolger] Re: Polyester resin questions
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, July 28, 2008, 4:36 AM
HDO is not treated when new contractors that use it for cement forms
treat it them selfs normaly with diesal oil. New it has a thicker
harder smoth overlay used commenly for 18 wheel trailer beds. To
paint it it needs sanded to get some bite but would not need epoxy or
poly coating to last 20 years as sides on a horse trailer.
Jon
--- In bolger@yahoogroups. com, Giuliano Girometta <ggboat1@... > wrote:
>
> Be carefull with the HDO made for forms, is not the same thing as
MDO. The stuff made for forms is treated with a releasing agent that
prevent concrete and other stuff poured into to stick to the surface.
Therefore one day all the job may come apart.
>
> Giuliano
>
> --- On Sat, 7/26/08, Jon & Wanda(Tink) <windyjon@.. .> wrote:
>
> From: Jon & Wanda(Tink) <windyjon@.. .>
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Polyester resin questions
> To: bolger@yahoogroups. com
> Date: Saturday, July 26, 2008, 7:54 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Rather then going through all that why not just use HDO it is a
well
> glued plywood used for foundation forms and semi trailer beds.
Realy
> tough stuff and won't need painted just edge sealed.
>
> Jon
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
HDO is not treated when new contractors that use it for cement forms
treat it them selfs normaly with diesal oil. New it has a thicker
harder smoth overlay used commenly for 18 wheel trailer beds. To
paint it it needs sanded to get some bite but would not need epoxy or
poly coating to last 20 years as sides on a horse trailer.
Jon
treat it them selfs normaly with diesal oil. New it has a thicker
harder smoth overlay used commenly for 18 wheel trailer beds. To
paint it it needs sanded to get some bite but would not need epoxy or
poly coating to last 20 years as sides on a horse trailer.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Giuliano Girometta <ggboat1@...> wrote:
>
> Be carefull with the HDO made for forms, is not the same thing as
MDO. The stuff made for forms is treated with a releasing agent that
prevent concrete and other stuff poured into to stick to the surface.
Therefore one day all the job may come apart.
>
> Giuliano
>
> --- On Sat, 7/26/08, Jon & Wanda(Tink) <windyjon@...> wrote:
>
> From: Jon & Wanda(Tink) <windyjon@...>
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Polyester resin questions
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Saturday, July 26, 2008, 7:54 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Rather then going through all that why not just use HDO it is a
well
> glued plywood used for foundation forms and semi trailer beds.
Realy
> tough stuff and won't need painted just edge sealed.
>
> Jon
Be carefull with the HDO made for forms, is not the same thing as MDO. The stuff made for forms is treated with a releasing agent that prevent concrete and other stuff poured into to stick to the surface. Therefore one day all the job may come apart.
Giuliano
Giuliano
--- On Sat, 7/26/08, Jon & Wanda(Tink) <windyjon@...> wrote:
From: Jon & Wanda(Tink) <windyjon@...>
Subject: [bolger] Re: Polyester resin questions
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, July 26, 2008, 7:54 AM
Rather then going through all that why not just use HDO it is a well
glued plywood used for foundation forms and semi trailer beds. Realy
tough stuff and won't need painted just edge sealed.
Jon
--- In bolger@yahoogroups. com, Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@. ..> wrote:
>
> A friend just asked me for advice about fiberglassing plywood for
> replacing the sides on a horse trailer. I would think that
polyester
> would be a fine resin for this and less expensive than epoxy, but I
> haven't used polyester for about 40 years.
>
> I vaguely recall people saying polyester doesn't always stick well
to
> plywood. I had no such problem 40 years ago, but maybe I was lucky.
Are
> there issues or practices to be careful about to ensure adhesion?
Does
> it matter whether he uses plain old exterior fir or pine?
>
> I know where to order gallons of epoxy but I don't know where to go
for
> polyester. When I was kid, my dad brought it home from somewhere --
> never knew where. May have bought it at the place where they
> manufactured Dolphin sailboats. Does anyone have links to sites for
> purchase? Would West Marine or a local agricultural supply place be
> sources? (Those are the places I go for trailer kits.)
>
> Are there issues around formulation, like with epoxy where you can
pay
> more for non-blushing formulas?
>
> Will any old paint do when he is done? I suggested latex porch
paint, he
> had been advised to go with a marine paing (a one part
polyurethane, I
> imagine), but that really seems like overkill to me.
>
> Thanks for any help/advice.
>
> Patrick
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Rather then going through all that why not just use HDO it is a well
glued plywood used for foundation forms and semi trailer beds. Realy
tough stuff and won't need painted just edge sealed.
Jon
glued plywood used for foundation forms and semi trailer beds. Realy
tough stuff and won't need painted just edge sealed.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@...> wrote:
>
> A friend just asked me for advice about fiberglassing plywood for
> replacing the sides on a horse trailer. I would think that
polyester
> would be a fine resin for this and less expensive than epoxy, but I
> haven't used polyester for about 40 years.
>
> I vaguely recall people saying polyester doesn't always stick well
to
> plywood. I had no such problem 40 years ago, but maybe I was lucky.
Are
> there issues or practices to be careful about to ensure adhesion?
Does
> it matter whether he uses plain old exterior fir or pine?
>
> I know where to order gallons of epoxy but I don't know where to go
for
> polyester. When I was kid, my dad brought it home from somewhere --
> never knew where. May have bought it at the place where they
> manufactured Dolphin sailboats. Does anyone have links to sites for
> purchase? Would West Marine or a local agricultural supply place be
> sources? (Those are the places I go for trailer kits.)
>
> Are there issues around formulation, like with epoxy where you can
pay
> more for non-blushing formulas?
>
> Will any old paint do when he is done? I suggested latex porch
paint, he
> had been advised to go with a marine paing (a one part
polyurethane, I
> imagine), but that really seems like overkill to me.
>
> Thanks for any help/advice.
>
> Patrick
>
www.mertons.com
No connection but a great guy to deal with...
Paul Esterle
Freelance Boating Writer
Columbia 10.7, 26 & Matilda 20
North East, MD.
“Capt’n Pauley’s Boat Repairs & Upgrades”
book at www.captnpauley.com
home.comcast.net/~pesterle/
Patrick Crockett wrote:
No connection but a great guy to deal with...
Paul Esterle
Freelance Boating Writer
Columbia 10.7, 26 & Matilda 20
North East, MD.
“Capt’n Pauley’s Boat Repairs & Upgrades”
book at www.captnpauley.com
home.comcast.net/~pesterle/
Patrick Crockett wrote:
>
> A friend just asked me for advice about fiberglassing plywood for
> replacing the sides on a horse trailer. I would think that polyester
> would be a fine resin for this and less expensive than epoxy, but I
> haven't used polyester for about 40 years.
>
> I vaguely recall people saying polyester doesn't always stick well to
> plywood. I had no such problem 40 years ago, but maybe I was lucky. Are
> there issues or practices to be careful about to ensure adhesion? Does
> it matter whether he uses plain old exterior fir or pine?
>
> I know where to order gallons of epoxy but I don't know where to go for
> polyester. When I was kid, my dad brought it home from somewhere --
> never knew where. May have bought it at the place where they
> manufactured Dolphin sailboats. Does anyone have links to sites for
> purchase? Would West Marine or a local agricultural supply place be
> sources? (Those are the places I go for trailer kits.)
>
> Are there issues around formulation, like with epoxy where you can pay
> more for non-blushing formulas?
>
> Will any old paint do when he is done? I suggested latex porch paint, he
> had been advised to go with a marine paing (a one part polyurethane, I
> imagine), but that really seems like overkill to me.
>
> Thanks for any help/advice.
>
> Patrick
>
>
From what I've used polyester and it's been a lot, he would want to get one that was for marine use. They tend to stick better to wood. When he does his layup he is going to need to scuff up the wood and give it some tooth and then prime the wood and let it tack then go over it with like a 2 oz mat and something like a 7781 cloth. The hassle with using the 6 oz boat cloth is it's very open and you can and will have all kinds of pinholes.
He just has to remember DO NOT GET ANY RESIN WITH WAX IN IT!!! Yes it will stay tacky for a long while. But I have found that cheap paint will also stick to it very well.
I checked with my supplier and the 7781 is 8.7 oz and is cheaper then the 6 oz boat cloth. It also has a higher thread count and has a satin finsh so it will be easer to get a nice paint job..... One of my suppliers is www.fiberglasssupply.com I like working with them and they have most of what I need when I need it. They also ship any where in the US
I'm with you on the paint. But seeing how he is planing on using polyester why not use gelcoat and not mess with paint? At a later date he can take a sander to the gelcoat and smooth it for a real paint job.
Drop me a note if you need any advice or how to tricks. He will need some tools for working the air bubbles out of the mat before he puts the cloth down.
I have used more polyester then epoxy by about 1000 to 1 or more. When I have seen the wood glass bond fail was do to not doing the job right the first time.
Blessings all and enjoy the weekend.
Krissie
He just has to remember DO NOT GET ANY RESIN WITH WAX IN IT!!! Yes it will stay tacky for a long while. But I have found that cheap paint will also stick to it very well.
I checked with my supplier and the 7781 is 8.7 oz and is cheaper then the 6 oz boat cloth. It also has a higher thread count and has a satin finsh so it will be easer to get a nice paint job..... One of my suppliers is www.fiberglasssupply.com I like working with them and they have most of what I need when I need it. They also ship any where in the US
I'm with you on the paint. But seeing how he is planing on using polyester why not use gelcoat and not mess with paint? At a later date he can take a sander to the gelcoat and smooth it for a real paint job.
Drop me a note if you need any advice or how to tricks. He will need some tools for working the air bubbles out of the mat before he puts the cloth down.
I have used more polyester then epoxy by about 1000 to 1 or more. When I have seen the wood glass bond fail was do to not doing the job right the first time.
Blessings all and enjoy the weekend.
Krissie
--- On Fri, 7/25/08, Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@...> wrote:
From: Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@...>
Subject: [bolger] Polyester resin questions
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, July 25, 2008, 5:53 AM
A friend just asked me for advice about fiberglassing plywood for
replacing the sides on a horse trailer. I would think that polyester
would be a fine resin for this and less expensive than epoxy, but I
haven't used polyester for about 40 years.
I vaguely recall people saying polyester doesn't always stick well to
plywood. I had no such problem 40 years ago, but maybe I was lucky. Are
there issues or practices to be careful about to ensure adhesion? Does
it matter whether he uses plain old exterior fir or pine?
I know where to order gallons of epoxy but I don't know where to go for
polyester. When I was kid, my dad brought it home from somewhere --
never knew where. May have bought it at the place where they
manufactured Dolphin sailboats. Does anyone have links to sites for
purchase? Would West Marine or a local agricultural supply place be
sources? (Those are the places I go for trailer kits.)
Are there issues around formulation, like with epoxy where you can pay
more for non-blushing formulas?
Will any old paint do when he is done? I suggested latex porch paint, he
had been advised to go with a marine paing (a one part polyurethane, I
imagine), but that really seems like overkill to me.
Thanks for any help/advice.
Patrick
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
As long as he is not relying on the resin as a load-bearing part of the structure, he should be OK.
I bet you can get this stuff at a big box hardware store like Home Depot or Lowes. if not, a Googling of "polyester resin" should give you lots a places to buy.
Yes . . . marine paint is overkill. Any exterior latex primer and paint will look fine. Lasts 10+ years on houses, doesn't it?
Question . . . Why is he bothering to fiberglas the walls? A quality exterior plywood with a good finish, a coat of primer and two coats of exterior paint would do the job, without the mess and expense of the fiberlasing. I don't see what the fiberglas adds to the project.
David C
---- Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@...> wrote:
I bet you can get this stuff at a big box hardware store like Home Depot or Lowes. if not, a Googling of "polyester resin" should give you lots a places to buy.
Yes . . . marine paint is overkill. Any exterior latex primer and paint will look fine. Lasts 10+ years on houses, doesn't it?
Question . . . Why is he bothering to fiberglas the walls? A quality exterior plywood with a good finish, a coat of primer and two coats of exterior paint would do the job, without the mess and expense of the fiberlasing. I don't see what the fiberglas adds to the project.
David C
---- Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@...> wrote:
> A friend just asked me for advice about fiberglassing plywood for
> replacing the sides on a horse trailer. I would think that polyester
> would be a fine resin for this and less expensive than epoxy, but I
> haven't used polyester for about 40 years.
>
> I vaguely recall people saying polyester doesn't always stick well to
> plywood. I had no such problem 40 years ago, but maybe I was lucky. Are
> there issues or practices to be careful about to ensure adhesion? Does
> it matter whether he uses plain old exterior fir or pine?
>
> I know where to order gallons of epoxy but I don't know where to go for
> polyester. When I was kid, my dad brought it home from somewhere --
> never knew where. May have bought it at the place where they
> manufactured Dolphin sailboats. Does anyone have links to sites for
> purchase? Would West Marine or a local agricultural supply place be
> sources? (Those are the places I go for trailer kits.)
>
> Are there issues around formulation, like with epoxy where you can pay
> more for non-blushing formulas?
>
> Will any old paint do when he is done? I suggested latex porch paint, he
> had been advised to go with a marine paing (a one part polyurethane, I
> imagine), but that really seems like overkill to me.
>
> Thanks for any help/advice.
>
> Patrick
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
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> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
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>
>
>
A friend just asked me for advice about fiberglassing plywood for
replacing the sides on a horse trailer. I would think that polyester
would be a fine resin for this and less expensive than epoxy, but I
haven't used polyester for about 40 years.
I vaguely recall people saying polyester doesn't always stick well to
plywood. I had no such problem 40 years ago, but maybe I was lucky. Are
there issues or practices to be careful about to ensure adhesion? Does
it matter whether he uses plain old exterior fir or pine?
I know where to order gallons of epoxy but I don't know where to go for
polyester. When I was kid, my dad brought it home from somewhere --
never knew where. May have bought it at the place where they
manufactured Dolphin sailboats. Does anyone have links to sites for
purchase? Would West Marine or a local agricultural supply place be
sources? (Those are the places I go for trailer kits.)
Are there issues around formulation, like with epoxy where you can pay
more for non-blushing formulas?
Will any old paint do when he is done? I suggested latex porch paint, he
had been advised to go with a marine paing (a one part polyurethane, I
imagine), but that really seems like overkill to me.
Thanks for any help/advice.
Patrick
replacing the sides on a horse trailer. I would think that polyester
would be a fine resin for this and less expensive than epoxy, but I
haven't used polyester for about 40 years.
I vaguely recall people saying polyester doesn't always stick well to
plywood. I had no such problem 40 years ago, but maybe I was lucky. Are
there issues or practices to be careful about to ensure adhesion? Does
it matter whether he uses plain old exterior fir or pine?
I know where to order gallons of epoxy but I don't know where to go for
polyester. When I was kid, my dad brought it home from somewhere --
never knew where. May have bought it at the place where they
manufactured Dolphin sailboats. Does anyone have links to sites for
purchase? Would West Marine or a local agricultural supply place be
sources? (Those are the places I go for trailer kits.)
Are there issues around formulation, like with epoxy where you can pay
more for non-blushing formulas?
Will any old paint do when he is done? I suggested latex porch paint, he
had been advised to go with a marine paing (a one part polyurethane, I
imagine), but that really seems like overkill to me.
Thanks for any help/advice.
Patrick
Crezon comes in 5/16th's, I have never used it but others have spoken
well of it on this list.
http://www.olypanel.com/signMaking/
HJ
John and Kathy Trussell wrote:
well of it on this list.
http://www.olypanel.com/signMaking/
HJ
John and Kathy Trussell wrote:
> I used MDO to bulid a 19 foot stich and glue Michalak design a couple of years ago and it has held up nicely. I think someone build a gold plater version of Micro several years ago with MDO, but that is not s&g.
>
> I view MDO (and I am speaking of Signal MDO) as a multi veneer plywood with the outer veneer being the overlay. The overlay itself is some sort of paper product which has been saturated with glue and is somewhat tougher than a wooden veneer. I think that if you are satisfied that epoxy and tape will stick to a layer of epoxy and tape (which is what the second layer of tape does on stitch and glue) you shouldn't worry about MDO.
>
> Signal is very nice stuff with minimal voids and very uniform quality. I cut up 17 sheets of it with skill saw and saber saw. I planed on it with hand and power planes and sandedit with everything from a side grinder to hand. Throughout, it stuck together and I found no flaws. My only knock on MDO is that 3/8's is the thinnest size available. Otherwise, I recommend it without reservation.
>
> JohnT
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Sam Glasscock
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 4:19 PM
> Subject: [bolger] MDO and stitch-and-glue
>
>
> I apologize for this question, because I know it must have been asked before, but can epoxy/glass tape construction be used directly on MDO? Does the overlay have to be removed or roughed up before the epoxy/tape will adhere? If I glue dierectly to the overlay, how will the strength of that joint compare to one made to regular fir ply? Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.10/1551 - Release Date: 7/14/2008 6:49 AM
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> How many sheets are in a unit?It varies and depends on the type and thickness of the plywood.
A unit is a stack of plywood about 30 inches +/- tall
For 1/2" plywood about 60 sheets
http://afa.ca/products.php?c=7&s=13
How many sheets are in a unit?
-p
-p
On Mon, Jul 14, 2008 at 9:03 PM, Jon & Wanda(Tink) <windyjon@...> wrote:
> Oly ply makes Signal in 5/16ths and 1/4" you just have to buy a whole
> unit if someone else hasnt and is selling sheets.
>
> Jon
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John and Kathy Trussell"
> <jtrussell2@...> wrote:
> >
> > I used MDO to bulid a 19 foot stich and glue Michalak design a
> couple of years ago and it has held up nicely. I think someone build
> a gold plater version of Micro several years ago with MDO, but that
> is not s&g.
> >
> > I view MDO (and I am speaking of Signal MDO) as a multi veneer
> plywood with the outer veneer being the overlay. The overlay itself
> is some sort of paper product which has been saturated with glue and
> is somewhat tougher than a wooden veneer. I think that if you are
> satisfied that epoxy and tape will stick to a layer of epoxy and tape
> (which is what the second layer of tape does on stitch and glue) you
> shouldn't worry about MDO.
> >
> > Signal is very nice stuff with minimal voids and very uniform
> quality. I cut up 17 sheets of it with skill saw and saber saw. I
> planed on it with hand and power planes and sandedit with everything
> from a side grinder to hand. Throughout, it stuck together and I
> found no flaws. My only knock on MDO is that 3/8's is the thinnest
> size available. Otherwise, I recommend it without reservation.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
> (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo!
> Groups Links
>
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Oly ply makes Signal in 5/16ths and 1/4" you just have to buy a whole
unit if someone else hasnt and is selling sheets.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John and Kathy Trussell"
<jtrussell2@...> wrote:
a gold plater version of Micro several years ago with MDO, but that
is not s&g.
is some sort of paper product which has been saturated with glue and
is somewhat tougher than a wooden veneer. I think that if you are
satisfied that epoxy and tape will stick to a layer of epoxy and tape
(which is what the second layer of tape does on stitch and glue) you
shouldn't worry about MDO.
planed on it with hand and power planes and sandedit with everything
from a side grinder to hand. Throughout, it stuck together and I
found no flaws. My only knock on MDO is that 3/8's is the thinnest
size available. Otherwise, I recommend it without reservation.
unit if someone else hasnt and is selling sheets.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John and Kathy Trussell"
<jtrussell2@...> wrote:
>couple of years ago and it has held up nicely. I think someone build
> I used MDO to bulid a 19 foot stich and glue Michalak design a
a gold plater version of Micro several years ago with MDO, but that
is not s&g.
>plywood with the outer veneer being the overlay. The overlay itself
> I view MDO (and I am speaking of Signal MDO) as a multi veneer
is some sort of paper product which has been saturated with glue and
is somewhat tougher than a wooden veneer. I think that if you are
satisfied that epoxy and tape will stick to a layer of epoxy and tape
(which is what the second layer of tape does on stitch and glue) you
shouldn't worry about MDO.
>quality. I cut up 17 sheets of it with skill saw and saber saw. I
> Signal is very nice stuff with minimal voids and very uniform
planed on it with hand and power planes and sandedit with everything
from a side grinder to hand. Throughout, it stuck together and I
found no flaws. My only knock on MDO is that 3/8's is the thinnest
size available. Otherwise, I recommend it without reservation.
I used MDO to bulid a 19 foot stich and glue Michalak design a couple of years ago and it has held up nicely. I think someone build a gold plater version of Micro several years ago with MDO, but that is not s&g.
I view MDO (and I am speaking of Signal MDO) as a multi veneer plywood with the outer veneer being the overlay. The overlay itself is some sort of paper product which has been saturated with glue and is somewhat tougher than a wooden veneer. I think that if you are satisfied that epoxy and tape will stick to a layer of epoxy and tape (which is what the second layer of tape does on stitch and glue) you shouldn't worry about MDO.
Signal is very nice stuff with minimal voids and very uniform quality. I cut up 17 sheets of it with skill saw and saber saw. I planed on it with hand and power planes and sandedit with everything from a side grinder to hand. Throughout, it stuck together and I found no flaws. My only knock on MDO is that 3/8's is the thinnest size available. Otherwise, I recommend it without reservation.
JohnT
I view MDO (and I am speaking of Signal MDO) as a multi veneer plywood with the outer veneer being the overlay. The overlay itself is some sort of paper product which has been saturated with glue and is somewhat tougher than a wooden veneer. I think that if you are satisfied that epoxy and tape will stick to a layer of epoxy and tape (which is what the second layer of tape does on stitch and glue) you shouldn't worry about MDO.
Signal is very nice stuff with minimal voids and very uniform quality. I cut up 17 sheets of it with skill saw and saber saw. I planed on it with hand and power planes and sandedit with everything from a side grinder to hand. Throughout, it stuck together and I found no flaws. My only knock on MDO is that 3/8's is the thinnest size available. Otherwise, I recommend it without reservation.
JohnT
----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Glasscock
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 4:19 PM
Subject: [bolger] MDO and stitch-and-glue
I apologize for this question, because I know it must have been asked before, but can epoxy/glass tape construction be used directly on MDO? Does the overlay have to be removed or roughed up before the epoxy/tape will adhere? If I glue dierectly to the overlay, how will the strength of that joint compare to one made to regular fir ply? Thanks
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.10/1551 - Release Date: 7/14/2008 6:49 AM
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
It will stick directly but there are two reasons to sand with a ROS and
60 grit. It roughs it up for a even better grip (not needed) but if
there is any flaw under the overlay it will show up as a nonsanded spot
for pin knots and line for venear gap. Not all MDO is created equal.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...>
wrote:
Does the overlay have to be removed or roughed up before the epoxy/tape
will adhere? If I glue dierectly to the overlay, how will the strength
of that joint compare to one made to regular fir ply? Thanks
60 grit. It roughs it up for a even better grip (not needed) but if
there is any flaw under the overlay it will show up as a nonsanded spot
for pin knots and line for venear gap. Not all MDO is created equal.
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...>
wrote:
>before, but can epoxy/glass tape construction be used directly on MDO?
> I apologize for this question, because I know it must have been asked
Does the overlay have to be removed or roughed up before the epoxy/tape
will adhere? If I glue dierectly to the overlay, how will the strength
of that joint compare to one made to regular fir ply? Thanks
>
I apologize for this question, because I know it must have been asked before, but can epoxy/glass tape construction be used directly on MDO? Does the overlay have to be removed or roughed up before the epoxy/tape will adhere? If I glue dierectly to the overlay, how will the strength of that joint compare to one made to regular fir ply? Thanks
Col
You didn't ask for this but I'd eliminate the straps In favor of another method. I used straps in my boat. Even after beveling the edges they act as dams for water and debris making the boat much harder to clean and keep dry. Scarfing is not that difficult with plywood if it's good quality and fiberglassed butt joints are reputed to be very strong despite what your intuition might tell you.
Buck
________________________________
It’s a talkathon – but it’s not just talk.
http://www.imtalkathon.com/?source=EML_WLH_Talkathon_JustTalk
You didn't ask for this but I'd eliminate the straps In favor of another method. I used straps in my boat. Even after beveling the edges they act as dams for water and debris making the boat much harder to clean and keep dry. Scarfing is not that difficult with plywood if it's good quality and fiberglassed butt joints are reputed to be very strong despite what your intuition might tell you.
Buck
________________________________
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com_________________________________________________________________
> From:colmooney@...
> Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 05:27:16 +0000
> Subject: [bolger] Micro bottom butt straps
>
>
> Hi group,
> I'm about to put the bottom on my Micro, went for the half inch
> bottom, single layer with butt straps. For plywood economy I made my
> butt straps out of left over 3/8 ply, 4 inches wide. Phil specified 2
> layers of 1/4 inch, 4 inches wide with his original 1/4 inch bottom.
> Do you think what I'm doing will be OK, or should my straps be
> thicker/wider?
> Cheers,
> Col
>
>
>
It’s a talkathon – but it’s not just talk.
http://www.imtalkathon.com/?source=EML_WLH_Talkathon_JustTalk
Eight times seems about right to me, if you're using the same
thickness for the buttstrap as the ply sheets you're holding
together. For Bolger's Diablo, Harold Payson recommends 4" wide
buttstraps out of 1/4" ply for the 1/4" ply sides. That's 16:1 or
8:1 on each side of the join.
Howard
thickness for the buttstrap as the ply sheets you're holding
together. For Bolger's Diablo, Harold Payson recommends 4" wide
buttstraps out of 1/4" ply for the 1/4" ply sides. That's 16:1 or
8:1 on each side of the join.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Kristine Bennett <femmpaws@...> wrote:
>
> I remember reading some place where the butt straps should be as
thick or thicker then the ply of the skin, and I think it was 6 to 8
times the skin thickness each side of the seam as well. I remember
reading it but I can't remember where.
>
> Krissie
>
>
> Hi group,
>
> I'm about to put the bottom on my Micro, went for the half inch
>
> bottom, single layer with butt straps. For plywood economy I made
my
>
> butt straps out of left over 3/8 ply, 4 inches wide. Phil
specified 2
>
> layers of 1/4 inch, 4 inches wide with his original 1/4 inch
bottom.
>
> Do you think what I'm doing will be OK, or should my straps be
>
> thicker/wider?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Col
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
I would go wider with the 3/8 to 6 or 8" others will have other ideas.
Jon
Jon
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Col" <colmooney@...> wrote:
>
>
> Hi group,
> I'm about to put the bottom on my Micro, went for the half inch
> bottom, single layer with butt straps. For plywood economy I made my
> butt straps out of left over 3/8 ply, 4 inches wide. Phil specified
2
> layers of 1/4 inch, 4 inches wide with his original 1/4 inch bottom.
> Do you think what I'm doing will be OK, or should my straps be
> thicker/wider?
> Cheers,
> Col
>
I remember reading some place where the butt straps should be as thick or thicker then the ply of the skin, and I think it was 6 to 8 times the skin thickness each side of the seam as well. I remember reading it but I can't remember where.
Krissie
Hi group,
I'm about to put the bottom on my Micro, went for the half inch
bottom, single layer with butt straps. For plywood economy I made my
butt straps out of left over 3/8 ply, 4 inches wide. Phil specified 2
layers of 1/4 inch, 4 inches wide with his original 1/4 inch bottom.
Do you think what I'm doing will be OK, or should my straps be
thicker/wider?
Cheers,
Col
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Krissie
Hi group,
I'm about to put the bottom on my Micro, went for the half inch
bottom, single layer with butt straps. For plywood economy I made my
butt straps out of left over 3/8 ply, 4 inches wide. Phil specified 2
layers of 1/4 inch, 4 inches wide with his original 1/4 inch bottom.
Do you think what I'm doing will be OK, or should my straps be
thicker/wider?
Cheers,
Col
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi group,
I'm about to put the bottom on my Micro, went for the half inch
bottom, single layer with butt straps. For plywood economy I made my
butt straps out of left over 3/8 ply, 4 inches wide. Phil specified 2
layers of 1/4 inch, 4 inches wide with his original 1/4 inch bottom.
Do you think what I'm doing will be OK, or should my straps be
thicker/wider?
Cheers,
Col
I'm about to put the bottom on my Micro, went for the half inch
bottom, single layer with butt straps. For plywood economy I made my
butt straps out of left over 3/8 ply, 4 inches wide. Phil specified 2
layers of 1/4 inch, 4 inches wide with his original 1/4 inch bottom.
Do you think what I'm doing will be OK, or should my straps be
thicker/wider?
Cheers,
Col