[bolger] Re: Sprit Rig Hardware
Phil,
I installed two bull's eyes on the aft corners of the rear deck. I
secure one end of the double length (30 foot) mainsheet to one bull's
eye, run the line up through a small block on the boom and then down
through the other bull's eye. It works well enough, though you can't
sheet in to the center line of the boat. On occasions when I want to
sail really close to the wind, I install a rope horse between the
bull's eyes and tie a small block with becket in the middle of the
horse.
The 2:1 purchase also makes sailing easier.
The problem with installing a block on the rudder is that it is not a
kick up rudder. When you fasten it down so the sail doesn't pull it
up, you loose the ability to remove the rudder when running aground in
shallow water. And that rudder runs fairly deep, about 2 ft.
I got so tired of having the rudder pop out of the gudgeons while
coming ashore, (Thereby losing control of the boat!) that I designed
and built a kick up rudder. You're welcome to the plans if you like.
I made the fixed upper portion from plywood and the lower movable
portion of glass covered foam, but the lower portion of the original
plywood rudder would work too.
June Bug is a very good sailer if you keep the transom out of the
water. This means you have to sit on the middle thwart if you are
solo. I lashed a 3 ft. long hiking stick to the tiller so I could sit
in the middle.
If you haven't purchased your sail yet, I recommend ordering it from
Dynamite Payson. It is a top quality sail at a reasonable price.
I installed two bull's eyes on the aft corners of the rear deck. I
secure one end of the double length (30 foot) mainsheet to one bull's
eye, run the line up through a small block on the boom and then down
through the other bull's eye. It works well enough, though you can't
sheet in to the center line of the boat. On occasions when I want to
sail really close to the wind, I install a rope horse between the
bull's eyes and tie a small block with becket in the middle of the
horse.
The 2:1 purchase also makes sailing easier.
The problem with installing a block on the rudder is that it is not a
kick up rudder. When you fasten it down so the sail doesn't pull it
up, you loose the ability to remove the rudder when running aground in
shallow water. And that rudder runs fairly deep, about 2 ft.
I got so tired of having the rudder pop out of the gudgeons while
coming ashore, (Thereby losing control of the boat!) that I designed
and built a kick up rudder. You're welcome to the plans if you like.
I made the fixed upper portion from plywood and the lower movable
portion of glass covered foam, but the lower portion of the original
plywood rudder would work too.
June Bug is a very good sailer if you keep the transom out of the
water. This means you have to sit on the middle thwart if you are
solo. I lashed a 3 ft. long hiking stick to the tiller so I could sit
in the middle.
If you haven't purchased your sail yet, I recommend ordering it from
Dynamite Payson. It is a top quality sail at a reasonable price.
> I am to the point with my June Bug that sailing hardware must bedo
> ordered. Plans in the book (presumably same as the full size plans)
> not show the method for leading the mainsheet. Holding the tiller intraveler
> one hand and the sheet in the other for more than a few minutes seems
> quite undesirable. I do not intend to cleat the sheet, but if the
> helmsman desires to hold sheet and tiller in one hand and leave one
> hand free, it appears that he would need to run the sheet through a
> block, or ring on the rudder head or through a block on a rope
> across the stern. But I do not believe that a traveler of any type isnice.
> needed on a leg-o-mutton sprit boom rig.
>
> Therefore, it appears that the best solution is a block or ring on the
> rudder head and a device on the rudder to prevent pulling the pintles
> out. What does experience say -- this is my first leg-o-mutton rig I
> have sailed and will be the first time I'm skipper in 22 years. Does
> anyone have some good solutions?
>
> I know I must get a thimble and small cleat (4"?) for the snotter.
> Ran into some rather poor quality bronze gudgeons and pintles from a
> major distributor -- gudgeon holes aren't even straight/plumb.
> However, Wilcox & Crittenden bronze oarlocks and sockets are very
> Recommendations or other comments?
>
> Phil Lea
> Russellville, Arkansas
>
On the Bolger Gypsy, which uses the same rig as June Bug, there is a
ring on the rudder head just as you describe. Although I did not have
a problem with the rudder comming out because of the ring, sometimes it
would come out (dispite the fact that it swings up) when coming onto a
beach.
ring on the rudder head just as you describe. Although I did not have
a problem with the rudder comming out because of the ring, sometimes it
would come out (dispite the fact that it swings up) when coming onto a
beach.
Hi all,
I built a June Bug a couple of years ago as a tender for my Chebacco.
There's a pic of it in a past issue of Chebacco News somewhere.
It's a great rowing skiff, with loads of initial stability, and I originally
had no intention of sailing her.
Anyway, there being 6 months of the year when the Chebacco is on dry land,
and the odd day when I really fancy a sail, I've decided to retro-fit my JB
for sailing. I've made a rudder, leeboard and mast, so will soon be ready
for the off. I hadn't thought very much about the mainsheet business, but
my current plan is to make a couple of little thumb cleats and screw them to
the tops of gun'ls at the rear end. The main sheet can be led around one of
these, and changed over every tack. I had this system on a 15 foot
lug-rigged skiff a few years ago, and it worked fine. Nice and low tech and
perfectly manageable, too. It has the advantage that the sheet can be let
fly at any time and the sail will weathercock effortlessly - This feature
certainly saved me from the odd ducking in the past.
I seem to remember the Car Topper's plans show this system, but don't have
them to hand, to check that my memory serves me well. Anyway, the Car
Topper has the same sail as June Bug.
Bill Samson
I built a June Bug a couple of years ago as a tender for my Chebacco.
There's a pic of it in a past issue of Chebacco News somewhere.
It's a great rowing skiff, with loads of initial stability, and I originally
had no intention of sailing her.
Anyway, there being 6 months of the year when the Chebacco is on dry land,
and the odd day when I really fancy a sail, I've decided to retro-fit my JB
for sailing. I've made a rudder, leeboard and mast, so will soon be ready
for the off. I hadn't thought very much about the mainsheet business, but
my current plan is to make a couple of little thumb cleats and screw them to
the tops of gun'ls at the rear end. The main sheet can be led around one of
these, and changed over every tack. I had this system on a 15 foot
lug-rigged skiff a few years ago, and it worked fine. Nice and low tech and
perfectly manageable, too. It has the advantage that the sheet can be let
fly at any time and the sail will weathercock effortlessly - This feature
certainly saved me from the odd ducking in the past.
I seem to remember the Car Topper's plans show this system, but don't have
them to hand, to check that my memory serves me well. Anyway, the Car
Topper has the same sail as June Bug.
Bill Samson
>From:plea@...______________________________________________________
>Reply-To:bolger@egroups.com
>To:bolger@...
>Subject: [bolger] Re: Sprit Rig Hardware
>Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 13:41:26 -0700
>
>Question is posed to other Bolger skiff owners, not just the June Bug
>-- this is the same rig that is used on the teal and other Bolger
>skiffs.
>
>Phil Lea
>
>plea@...wrote:
>original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=581
> > I am to the point with my June Bug that sailing hardware must be
> > ordered. Plans in the book (presumably same as the full size plans)
>do
> > not show the method for leading the mainsheet. Holding the tiller in
> > one hand and the sheet in the other for more than a few minutes seems
> > quite undesirable. I do not intend to cleat the sheet, but if the
> > helmsman desires to hold sheet and tiller in one hand and leave one
> > hand free, it appears that he would need to run the sheet through a
> > block, or ring on the rudder head or through a block on a rope
>traveler
> > across the stern. But I do not believe that a traveler of any type is
> > needed on a leg-o-mutton sprit boom rig.
> >
> > Therefore, it appears that the best solution is a block or ring on the
> > rudder head and a device on the rudder to prevent pulling the pintles
> > out. What does experience say -- this is my first leg-o-mutton rig I
> > have sailed and will be the first time I'm skipper in 22 years. Does
> > anyone have some good solutions?
> >
> > I know I must get a thimble and small cleat (4"?) for the snotter.
> > Ran into some rather poor quality bronze gudgeons and pintles from a
> > major distributor -- gudgeon holes aren't even straight/plumb.
> > However, Wilcox & Crittenden bronze oarlocks and sockets are very
>nice.
> > Recommendations or other comments?
> >
> > Phil Lea
> > Russellville, Arkansas
> >
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Java or juggling?. Everybody learns something at Learn2.com. Where
>you'll find thousands of free 2torials, affordable online courses, and
>useful tips for everyday life.http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/964
>
>
>eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
>
>
I'd agree with John, go for a sheet horse and a travler.
I have a Thomaston Galley and first long trip thought my hand would
fall off holding that sheet. The design also called for the helmsman to
lean way out alee to reposition the sheet around the aft deck cleet.
Made every tack a capsise adventure.
All the horse consists of is a length of rope with a hardware store
pully on it. I made nice loops on each end so it could just drop over
the cleets back there, after running the rope thru the metal loop on
top of the pully. The sheet goes thru the pully itself. (I guess now
that they are on the boat I should call em a block and a line, huh?)
Now changing tack all I have to do is lean back a little and slap the
block alee.
To give my hand a rest I put some jam cleets P & S on the forward face
of the aft deck bulkhead which is what the helmsman rests against. I
used the kind that look like a 2" track with a series of "V"'s the line
jams against. Pull the line up and out it comes. You can (and should)
keep the sheet in hand to loose it instantly if necessary, but don't
have to pull it while its there.
Enjoy!
I have a Thomaston Galley and first long trip thought my hand would
fall off holding that sheet. The design also called for the helmsman to
lean way out alee to reposition the sheet around the aft deck cleet.
Made every tack a capsise adventure.
All the horse consists of is a length of rope with a hardware store
pully on it. I made nice loops on each end so it could just drop over
the cleets back there, after running the rope thru the metal loop on
top of the pully. The sheet goes thru the pully itself. (I guess now
that they are on the boat I should call em a block and a line, huh?)
Now changing tack all I have to do is lean back a little and slap the
block alee.
To give my hand a rest I put some jam cleets P & S on the forward face
of the aft deck bulkhead which is what the helmsman rests against. I
used the kind that look like a 2" track with a series of "V"'s the line
jams against. Pull the line up and out it comes. You can (and should)
keep the sheet in hand to loose it instantly if necessary, but don't
have to pull it while its there.
Enjoy!
www.jsisail.com
(good guys and a customer of mine.)
Gregg Carlson
At 12:35 PM 10/28/1999 -0700, you wrote:
(good guys and a customer of mine.)
Gregg Carlson
At 12:35 PM 10/28/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>Probably the easiest solution would be a simple "fairlead" or
>"bullseye" (I may have these confused). On my Windsprint I was
>planning to use a fairlead, which is nothing more than a metal/plastic
>fitting that screws to the tiller that you run the sheet through. If
>you have a big sail or too much friction for this, a spring loaded
>stand-up block would work, but you'd have to make sure the base plate
>mount would fit on the tiller.
>
>Johnson Sails Inc. (they're local here) has a great catalog of nothing
>but sailing related stuff. Not sure of their web site address
>(jsi.com?), they'll send a catalog with pictures of all the available
>blocks. The catalog is hanndy to have arround. Also, they stock
>Shaefer and other cheap brands in addition to Harken and Lewmar. Many
>places just stock the high priced Harken Stuff, which is way too rich
>for any of these boats.
>
>Some would probably say Boat/US or West Marine/E&B, but around here
>everyone uses JSI because all the people that work there are Sailors.
>One E&B manager confided that their turnover on sailing related gear
>was 5 times what it was on boat trailer parts and that why they kept so
>little in stock.
>
>
>john sumrok <jsumro-@...> wrote:
>original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=583
>> I'm also building a Junebug, and have almost finished the hull. I
>plan on
>> using a rope traveler across the aft deck. It may not be the best
>solution,
>> but I think it will work OK.
>>
>> John Sumrok
>> Pittsburgh, PA
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From:plea@...[mailto:plea@...]
>> Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 12:36 PM
>> To:bolger@...
>> Subject: [bolger] Sprit Rig Hardware
>>
>>
>> I am to the point with my June Bug that sailing hardware must be
>> ordered. Plans in the book (presumably same as the full size plans)
>do
>> not show the method for leading the mainsheet. Holding the tiller in
>> one hand and the sheet in the other for more than a few minutes seems
>> quite undesirable. I do not intend to cleat the sheet, but if the
>> helmsman desires to hold sheet and tiller in one hand and leave one
>> hand free, it appears that he would need to run the sheet through a
>> block, or ring on the rudder head or through a block on a rope
>traveler
>> across the stern. But I do not believe that a traveler of any type is
>> needed on a leg-o-mutton sprit boom rig.
>>
>> Therefore, it appears that the best solution is a block or ring on the
>> rudder head and a device on the rudder to prevent pulling the pintles
>> out. What does experience say -- this is my first leg-o-mutton rig I
>> have sailed and will be the first time I'm skipper in 22 years. Does
>> anyone have some good solutions?
>>
>> I know I must get a thimble and small cleat (4"?) for the snotter.
>> Ran into some rather poor quality bronze gudgeons and pintles from a
>> major distributor -- gudgeon holes aren't even straight/plumb.
>> However, Wilcox & Crittenden bronze oarlocks and sockets are very
>nice.
>> Recommendations or other comments?
>>
>> Phil Lea
>> Russellville, Arkansas
>>
>>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Java or juggling?. Everybody learns something at Learn2.com. Where
>you'll find thousands of free 2torials, affordable online courses, and
>useful tips for everyday life.http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/964
>
>
>eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
>
>
Question is posed to other Bolger skiff owners, not just the June Bug
-- this is the same rig that is used on the teal and other Bolger
skiffs.
Phil Lea
plea@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=581
-- this is the same rig that is used on the teal and other Bolger
skiffs.
Phil Lea
plea@...wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=581
> I am to the point with my June Bug that sailing hardware must bedo
> ordered. Plans in the book (presumably same as the full size plans)
> not show the method for leading the mainsheet. Holding the tiller intraveler
> one hand and the sheet in the other for more than a few minutes seems
> quite undesirable. I do not intend to cleat the sheet, but if the
> helmsman desires to hold sheet and tiller in one hand and leave one
> hand free, it appears that he would need to run the sheet through a
> block, or ring on the rudder head or through a block on a rope
> across the stern. But I do not believe that a traveler of any type isnice.
> needed on a leg-o-mutton sprit boom rig.
>
> Therefore, it appears that the best solution is a block or ring on the
> rudder head and a device on the rudder to prevent pulling the pintles
> out. What does experience say -- this is my first leg-o-mutton rig I
> have sailed and will be the first time I'm skipper in 22 years. Does
> anyone have some good solutions?
>
> I know I must get a thimble and small cleat (4"?) for the snotter.
> Ran into some rather poor quality bronze gudgeons and pintles from a
> major distributor -- gudgeon holes aren't even straight/plumb.
> However, Wilcox & Crittenden bronze oarlocks and sockets are very
> Recommendations or other comments?
>
> Phil Lea
> Russellville, Arkansas
>
Probably the easiest solution would be a simple "fairlead" or
"bullseye" (I may have these confused). On my Windsprint I was
planning to use a fairlead, which is nothing more than a metal/plastic
fitting that screws to the tiller that you run the sheet through. If
you have a big sail or too much friction for this, a spring loaded
stand-up block would work, but you'd have to make sure the base plate
mount would fit on the tiller.
Johnson Sails Inc. (they're local here) has a great catalog of nothing
but sailing related stuff. Not sure of their web site address
(jsi.com?), they'll send a catalog with pictures of all the available
blocks. The catalog is hanndy to have arround. Also, they stock
Shaefer and other cheap brands in addition to Harken and Lewmar. Many
places just stock the high priced Harken Stuff, which is way too rich
for any of these boats.
Some would probably say Boat/US or West Marine/E&B, but around here
everyone uses JSI because all the people that work there are Sailors.
One E&B manager confided that their turnover on sailing related gear
was 5 times what it was on boat trailer parts and that why they kept so
little in stock.
john sumrok <jsumro-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=583
"bullseye" (I may have these confused). On my Windsprint I was
planning to use a fairlead, which is nothing more than a metal/plastic
fitting that screws to the tiller that you run the sheet through. If
you have a big sail or too much friction for this, a spring loaded
stand-up block would work, but you'd have to make sure the base plate
mount would fit on the tiller.
Johnson Sails Inc. (they're local here) has a great catalog of nothing
but sailing related stuff. Not sure of their web site address
(jsi.com?), they'll send a catalog with pictures of all the available
blocks. The catalog is hanndy to have arround. Also, they stock
Shaefer and other cheap brands in addition to Harken and Lewmar. Many
places just stock the high priced Harken Stuff, which is way too rich
for any of these boats.
Some would probably say Boat/US or West Marine/E&B, but around here
everyone uses JSI because all the people that work there are Sailors.
One E&B manager confided that their turnover on sailing related gear
was 5 times what it was on boat trailer parts and that why they kept so
little in stock.
john sumrok <jsumro-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=583
> I'm also building a Junebug, and have almost finished the hull. Iplan on
> using a rope traveler across the aft deck. It may not be the bestsolution,
> but I think it will work OK.do
>
> John Sumrok
> Pittsburgh, PA
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:plea@...[mailto:plea@...]
> Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 12:36 PM
> To:bolger@...
> Subject: [bolger] Sprit Rig Hardware
>
>
> I am to the point with my June Bug that sailing hardware must be
> ordered. Plans in the book (presumably same as the full size plans)
> not show the method for leading the mainsheet. Holding the tiller intraveler
> one hand and the sheet in the other for more than a few minutes seems
> quite undesirable. I do not intend to cleat the sheet, but if the
> helmsman desires to hold sheet and tiller in one hand and leave one
> hand free, it appears that he would need to run the sheet through a
> block, or ring on the rudder head or through a block on a rope
> across the stern. But I do not believe that a traveler of any type isnice.
> needed on a leg-o-mutton sprit boom rig.
>
> Therefore, it appears that the best solution is a block or ring on the
> rudder head and a device on the rudder to prevent pulling the pintles
> out. What does experience say -- this is my first leg-o-mutton rig I
> have sailed and will be the first time I'm skipper in 22 years. Does
> anyone have some good solutions?
>
> I know I must get a thimble and small cleat (4"?) for the snotter.
> Ran into some rather poor quality bronze gudgeons and pintles from a
> major distributor -- gudgeon holes aren't even straight/plumb.
> However, Wilcox & Crittenden bronze oarlocks and sockets are very
> Recommendations or other comments?
>
> Phil Lea
> Russellville, Arkansas
>
>
I'm also building a Junebug, and have almost finished the hull. I plan on
using a rope traveler across the aft deck. It may not be the best solution,
but I think it will work OK.
John Sumrok
Pittsburgh, PA
-----Original Message-----
From:plea@...[mailto:plea@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 12:36 PM
To:bolger@...
Subject: [bolger] Sprit Rig Hardware
I am to the point with my June Bug that sailing hardware must be
ordered. Plans in the book (presumably same as the full size plans) do
not show the method for leading the mainsheet. Holding the tiller in
one hand and the sheet in the other for more than a few minutes seems
quite undesirable. I do not intend to cleat the sheet, but if the
helmsman desires to hold sheet and tiller in one hand and leave one
hand free, it appears that he would need to run the sheet through a
block, or ring on the rudder head or through a block on a rope traveler
across the stern. But I do not believe that a traveler of any type is
needed on a leg-o-mutton sprit boom rig.
Therefore, it appears that the best solution is a block or ring on the
rudder head and a device on the rudder to prevent pulling the pintles
out. What does experience say -- this is my first leg-o-mutton rig I
have sailed and will be the first time I'm skipper in 22 years. Does
anyone have some good solutions?
I know I must get a thimble and small cleat (4"?) for the snotter.
Ran into some rather poor quality bronze gudgeons and pintles from a
major distributor -- gudgeon holes aren't even straight/plumb.
However, Wilcox & Crittenden bronze oarlocks and sockets are very nice.
Recommendations or other comments?
Phil Lea
Russellville, Arkansas
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Learn2 Avoid Junk Mail. Learn2 Shop for Bargain Airfares. Learn2
Weatherize Your Home. Learn2 Speak Wine. Learn2 Get by in French.
Learn2 Negotiate a Raise.http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/965
eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
using a rope traveler across the aft deck. It may not be the best solution,
but I think it will work OK.
John Sumrok
Pittsburgh, PA
-----Original Message-----
From:plea@...[mailto:plea@...]
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 12:36 PM
To:bolger@...
Subject: [bolger] Sprit Rig Hardware
I am to the point with my June Bug that sailing hardware must be
ordered. Plans in the book (presumably same as the full size plans) do
not show the method for leading the mainsheet. Holding the tiller in
one hand and the sheet in the other for more than a few minutes seems
quite undesirable. I do not intend to cleat the sheet, but if the
helmsman desires to hold sheet and tiller in one hand and leave one
hand free, it appears that he would need to run the sheet through a
block, or ring on the rudder head or through a block on a rope traveler
across the stern. But I do not believe that a traveler of any type is
needed on a leg-o-mutton sprit boom rig.
Therefore, it appears that the best solution is a block or ring on the
rudder head and a device on the rudder to prevent pulling the pintles
out. What does experience say -- this is my first leg-o-mutton rig I
have sailed and will be the first time I'm skipper in 22 years. Does
anyone have some good solutions?
I know I must get a thimble and small cleat (4"?) for the snotter.
Ran into some rather poor quality bronze gudgeons and pintles from a
major distributor -- gudgeon holes aren't even straight/plumb.
However, Wilcox & Crittenden bronze oarlocks and sockets are very nice.
Recommendations or other comments?
Phil Lea
Russellville, Arkansas
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Learn2 Avoid Junk Mail. Learn2 Shop for Bargain Airfares. Learn2
Weatherize Your Home. Learn2 Speak Wine. Learn2 Get by in French.
Learn2 Negotiate a Raise.http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/965
eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
Phil,
I think you are our first June Bug builder - please follow up with how it
works on the water. I'm starting on "Tennessee", but have June Bug on my
watchlist for the future...
My rickety bow shelter is finally up - photos at
www.ecoastlife.com/boatbuilding
Don Hodges Lynn Haven, FL
dhodges@...
http://www.ecoastlife.com
Your Cyber-Vacation - Loafing on the Emerald Coast
Small Boats, Building, Fishing, Paddling, Rowing, Sailing
I think you are our first June Bug builder - please follow up with how it
works on the water. I'm starting on "Tennessee", but have June Bug on my
watchlist for the future...
My rickety bow shelter is finally up - photos at
www.ecoastlife.com/boatbuilding
Don Hodges Lynn Haven, FL
dhodges@...
http://www.ecoastlife.com
Your Cyber-Vacation - Loafing on the Emerald Coast
Small Boats, Building, Fishing, Paddling, Rowing, Sailing
----- Original Message -----
From: <plea@...>
To: <bolger@...>
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 11:36 AM
Subject: [bolger] Sprit Rig Hardware
> I am to the point with my June Bug that sailing hardware must be
> ordered. Plans in the book (presumably same as the full size plans) do
> not show the method for leading the mainsheet. Holding the tiller in
> one hand and the sheet in the other for more than a few minutes seems
> quite undesirable. I do not intend to cleat the sheet, but if the
> helmsman desires to hold sheet and tiller in one hand and leave one
> hand free, it appears that he would need to run the sheet through a
> block, or ring on the rudder head or through a block on a rope traveler
> across the stern. But I do not believe that a traveler of any type is
> needed on a leg-o-mutton sprit boom rig.
>
> Therefore, it appears that the best solution is a block or ring on the
> rudder head and a device on the rudder to prevent pulling the pintles
> out. What does experience say -- this is my first leg-o-mutton rig I
> have sailed and will be the first time I'm skipper in 22 years. Does
> anyone have some good solutions?
>
> I know I must get a thimble and small cleat (4"?) for the snotter.
> Ran into some rather poor quality bronze gudgeons and pintles from a
> major distributor -- gudgeon holes aren't even straight/plumb.
> However, Wilcox & Crittenden bronze oarlocks and sockets are very nice.
> Recommendations or other comments?
>
> Phil Lea
> Russellville, Arkansas
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Learn2 Avoid Junk Mail. Learn2 Shop for Bargain Airfares. Learn2
> Weatherize Your Home. Learn2 Speak Wine. Learn2 Get by in French.
> Learn2 Negotiate a Raise.http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/965
>
>
>
> eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
>
I am to the point with my June Bug that sailing hardware must be
ordered. Plans in the book (presumably same as the full size plans) do
not show the method for leading the mainsheet. Holding the tiller in
one hand and the sheet in the other for more than a few minutes seems
quite undesirable. I do not intend to cleat the sheet, but if the
helmsman desires to hold sheet and tiller in one hand and leave one
hand free, it appears that he would need to run the sheet through a
block, or ring on the rudder head or through a block on a rope traveler
across the stern. But I do not believe that a traveler of any type is
needed on a leg-o-mutton sprit boom rig.
Therefore, it appears that the best solution is a block or ring on the
rudder head and a device on the rudder to prevent pulling the pintles
out. What does experience say -- this is my first leg-o-mutton rig I
have sailed and will be the first time I'm skipper in 22 years. Does
anyone have some good solutions?
I know I must get a thimble and small cleat (4"?) for the snotter.
Ran into some rather poor quality bronze gudgeons and pintles from a
major distributor -- gudgeon holes aren't even straight/plumb.
However, Wilcox & Crittenden bronze oarlocks and sockets are very nice.
Recommendations or other comments?
Phil Lea
Russellville, Arkansas
ordered. Plans in the book (presumably same as the full size plans) do
not show the method for leading the mainsheet. Holding the tiller in
one hand and the sheet in the other for more than a few minutes seems
quite undesirable. I do not intend to cleat the sheet, but if the
helmsman desires to hold sheet and tiller in one hand and leave one
hand free, it appears that he would need to run the sheet through a
block, or ring on the rudder head or through a block on a rope traveler
across the stern. But I do not believe that a traveler of any type is
needed on a leg-o-mutton sprit boom rig.
Therefore, it appears that the best solution is a block or ring on the
rudder head and a device on the rudder to prevent pulling the pintles
out. What does experience say -- this is my first leg-o-mutton rig I
have sailed and will be the first time I'm skipper in 22 years. Does
anyone have some good solutions?
I know I must get a thimble and small cleat (4"?) for the snotter.
Ran into some rather poor quality bronze gudgeons and pintles from a
major distributor -- gudgeon holes aren't even straight/plumb.
However, Wilcox & Crittenden bronze oarlocks and sockets are very nice.
Recommendations or other comments?
Phil Lea
Russellville, Arkansas