Re: Cartopper paint won't dry
It's true, it almost certainly will dry.
This is a good time to add a plug for Japan drier, which if appropriate
to your paint, is a great thing. It's poisonous (of course), but safe
enough to use (don't be eating paint chips, or wiping your mouth with a
paint-wet forearm). And it will speed up the drying (you mix it into the
paint in your little paint pot). It changes the color ever-so-slightly
(it's an attractive ruby-red, but you use very, very little).
I use it when I can, and am very happy with its action.
BTW, pspirine, you can still speed things up by adding heat and wind.
Put a fan on the boat, and will dry more quickly, or take it out into
the sunshine, and get fresh air and sunlight for warmth, and it will
speed up dramatically.
-Chris
P.S. You cannot add Japan drier after the paint has been applied.
This is a good time to add a plug for Japan drier, which if appropriate
to your paint, is a great thing. It's poisonous (of course), but safe
enough to use (don't be eating paint chips, or wiping your mouth with a
paint-wet forearm). And it will speed up the drying (you mix it into the
paint in your little paint pot). It changes the color ever-so-slightly
(it's an attractive ruby-red, but you use very, very little).
I use it when I can, and am very happy with its action.
BTW, pspirine, you can still speed things up by adding heat and wind.
Put a fan on the boat, and will dry more quickly, or take it out into
the sunshine, and get fresh air and sunlight for warmth, and it will
speed up dramatically.
-Chris
P.S. You cannot add Japan drier after the paint has been applied.
I put one-part polyurethane on my boat in hurricane season (not
raining, but very humid). Three months later we were still getting
yellow fingertips when we carried it. A year later it was totally
dry. Patience, indeed.
I have used exactly the same paint (same brand, same color) on a dry
day and the boat was completely dry in a couple hours.
Patrick
raining, but very humid). Three months later we were still getting
yellow fingertips when we carried it. A year later it was totally
dry. Patience, indeed.
I have used exactly the same paint (same brand, same color) on a dry
day and the boat was completely dry in a couple hours.
Patrick
On Jul 15, 2008, at 7:17 PM, malcolmf wrote:
> It will dry. The I painted my first boat in weather that was too hot
> and the primer was very slow drying. I was still not patient
> enough and
> put topcoats over a less-than-hard primer. And that did not dry -
> fast. In time they all dried. Patience.
> My theory is that the surface dried very fast, leaving a top skin that
> slowed evaporation of the solvent below.
> I am slowly coming to agree with Dynamite that a water base acrylic is
> the way to go.
> Calm Seas & A Prosperous Voyage
> Malcolm
>
>
> pspirine wrote:
>>
>> Since painting by brush I obviously had a few paint runs, and on the
>> flat bottom there were areas with high paint buildup. These areas
>> kind of wrinkled and formed a film (i.e. i can touch them with my
>> finger without getting any paint on myself), but underneath the paint
>> is still wet because I can "move around" the paint runs. If i push
>> hard enough with my finger the film peels back slightly and the wet
>> tacky paint below is revealed.
>>
>>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
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It will dry. The I painted my first boat in weather that was too hot
and the primer was very slow drying. I was still not patient enough and
put topcoats over a less-than-hard primer. And that did not dry -
fast. In time they all dried. Patience.
My theory is that the surface dried very fast, leaving a top skin that
slowed evaporation of the solvent below.
I am slowly coming to agree with Dynamite that a water base acrylic is
the way to go.
Calm Seas & A Prosperous Voyage
Malcolm
pspirine wrote:
and the primer was very slow drying. I was still not patient enough and
put topcoats over a less-than-hard primer. And that did not dry -
fast. In time they all dried. Patience.
My theory is that the surface dried very fast, leaving a top skin that
slowed evaporation of the solvent below.
I am slowly coming to agree with Dynamite that a water base acrylic is
the way to go.
Calm Seas & A Prosperous Voyage
Malcolm
pspirine wrote:
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Since painting by brush I obviously had a few paint runs, and on the
> flat bottom there were areas with high paint buildup. These areas
> kind of wrinkled and formed a film (i.e. i can touch them with my
> finger without getting any paint on myself), but underneath the paint
> is still wet because I can "move around" the paint runs. If i push
> hard enough with my finger the film peels back slightly and the wet
> tacky paint below is revealed.
>
>
>> > so, what's the best thing to do? I can't really sandI feel sympathy! (And, have no good advice.) I have had similar
>> > the paint very well since it wrinkles and then clogs up
>> > the sandpaper with the uncured paint :(
problems on Topaz, and after waiting several months for the paint to
harden, I ended up going at it with 40 grit "H bomb" sandpaper, then
starting over with hi-fill primer and repeating the the finish sanding
routine.
I notice that the 'el-cheapo' glossy paint technique for the DIY
automobile crowd involves many coats of extremely thin paint.
http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html
> It will dry.Agreed.
You probably just put the second coat on too thick and/or
too soon. The underlying layer didn't have a chance to dry
yet so it trapped some of the solvents. Once the solvents
work their way up to the surface they will evaporate and
the paint will get dry and hard, just like you want it to.
Sincerely,
Ken Grome
Bagacay Boatworks
www.bagacayboatworks.com
> It will dry.
> .....
>
> > Since painting by brush I obviously had a few paint
> > runs, and on the flat bottom there were areas with high
> > paint buildup. These areas kind of wrinkled and formed
> > a film (i.e. i can touch them with my finger without
> > getting any paint on myself), but underneath the paint
> > is still wet because I can "move around" the paint
> > runs. If i push hard enough with my finger the film
> > peels back slightly and the wet tacky paint below is
> > revealed.
> >
> > It seems almost like where the layer of paint is too
> > thick in one coat, it just formed a film on top and
> > trapped the rest of it inside.
> >
> > Now I don't mind waiting a week for it to dry and then
> > sand back the runs, but my question is WILL it ever
> > dry, or is that dry film going to prevent any bits of
> > paint below it from ever evaporating the solvent? If
> > so, what's the best thing to do? I can't really sand
> > the paint very well since it wrinkles and then clogs up
> > the sandpaper with the uncured paint :(
> >
> > Really don't want to resort to things like wire brushes
> > etc. because we spent absolutely AGES sanding the hull
> > down so it's smooth ready for paint :(
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Pavel
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
It will dry.
.....
.....
> Since painting by brush I obviously had a few paint runs, and on the[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> flat bottom there were areas with high paint buildup. These areas
> kind of wrinkled and formed a film (i.e. i can touch them with my
> finger without getting any paint on myself), but underneath the paint
> is still wet because I can "move around" the paint runs. If i push
> hard enough with my finger the film peels back slightly and the wet
> tacky paint below is revealed.
>
> It seems almost like where the layer of paint is too thick in one
> coat, it just formed a film on top and trapped the rest of it inside.
>
> Now I don't mind waiting a week for it to dry and then sand back the
> runs, but my question is WILL it ever dry, or is that dry film going
> to prevent any bits of paint below it from ever evaporating the
> solvent? If so, what's the best thing to do? I can't really sand the
> paint very well since it wrinkles and then clogs up the sandpaper
> with the uncured paint :(
>
> Really don't want to resort to things like wire brushes etc. because
> we spent absolutely AGES sanding the hull down so it's smooth ready
> for paint :(
>
> Thanks!
>
> Pavel
>
>
Hi everyone,
My first post here. I live in Cyprus in the med and my dad and I are
finishing building our first boat ever, a lovely Cartopper! It's by
no means a show piece but still looks good and feels sturdy as
anything.
It's bottoms up now, so that we can paint the hull. (the hull has
been sheathed with chopped strand mat with polyester resin, faired
with resin and bondo, and primed with a marine enamel undercoat). I'm
painting it using standard outdoors enamel oil paint (glossy yellow).
The paint says that it should be touch dry in 7-8 hours, and recoat
in 24 hours. So I put the first layer of yellow on, and the next day
put another coat. Then the next day I came back to take a look at it
and there's a few problems!
Since painting by brush I obviously had a few paint runs, and on the
flat bottom there were areas with high paint buildup. These areas
kind of wrinkled and formed a film (i.e. i can touch them with my
finger without getting any paint on myself), but underneath the paint
is still wet because I can "move around" the paint runs. If i push
hard enough with my finger the film peels back slightly and the wet
tacky paint below is revealed.
It seems almost like where the layer of paint is too thick in one
coat, it just formed a film on top and trapped the rest of it inside.
Now I don't mind waiting a week for it to dry and then sand back the
runs, but my question is WILL it ever dry, or is that dry film going
to prevent any bits of paint below it from ever evaporating the
solvent? If so, what's the best thing to do? I can't really sand the
paint very well since it wrinkles and then clogs up the sandpaper
with the uncured paint :(
Really don't want to resort to things like wire brushes etc. because
we spent absolutely AGES sanding the hull down so it's smooth ready
for paint :(
Thanks!
Pavel
My first post here. I live in Cyprus in the med and my dad and I are
finishing building our first boat ever, a lovely Cartopper! It's by
no means a show piece but still looks good and feels sturdy as
anything.
It's bottoms up now, so that we can paint the hull. (the hull has
been sheathed with chopped strand mat with polyester resin, faired
with resin and bondo, and primed with a marine enamel undercoat). I'm
painting it using standard outdoors enamel oil paint (glossy yellow).
The paint says that it should be touch dry in 7-8 hours, and recoat
in 24 hours. So I put the first layer of yellow on, and the next day
put another coat. Then the next day I came back to take a look at it
and there's a few problems!
Since painting by brush I obviously had a few paint runs, and on the
flat bottom there were areas with high paint buildup. These areas
kind of wrinkled and formed a film (i.e. i can touch them with my
finger without getting any paint on myself), but underneath the paint
is still wet because I can "move around" the paint runs. If i push
hard enough with my finger the film peels back slightly and the wet
tacky paint below is revealed.
It seems almost like where the layer of paint is too thick in one
coat, it just formed a film on top and trapped the rest of it inside.
Now I don't mind waiting a week for it to dry and then sand back the
runs, but my question is WILL it ever dry, or is that dry film going
to prevent any bits of paint below it from ever evaporating the
solvent? If so, what's the best thing to do? I can't really sand the
paint very well since it wrinkles and then clogs up the sandpaper
with the uncured paint :(
Really don't want to resort to things like wire brushes etc. because
we spent absolutely AGES sanding the hull down so it's smooth ready
for paint :(
Thanks!
Pavel