Re: [bolger] Fldg Schnr Deck Cleats?
Also, laminating helps to reduce the warp that a 4X4 will probably have.
Then too, it allows an easy way to run a channel up the mast (for wiring,
the sail or halyards) by sawing or routing in a groove before laminating.
After using the "too few" clamps in the shop, spiral wrap the mast, then
drive in small wooden wedges to clamp it - or if you have a flat slab, stack
on bricks, milk jugs of sand....you get the idea. Use thickened epoxy, and
don't "squeeze it all out".
Laminating in a small pulley wheel at the top would let you have lots of
options, and if you have priced track fo add to the exterior of the mast,
the motivation will be strong to route in that channel.
Good luck,
Jim
David Ryan wrote:
Then too, it allows an easy way to run a channel up the mast (for wiring,
the sail or halyards) by sawing or routing in a groove before laminating.
After using the "too few" clamps in the shop, spiral wrap the mast, then
drive in small wooden wedges to clamp it - or if you have a flat slab, stack
on bricks, milk jugs of sand....you get the idea. Use thickened epoxy, and
don't "squeeze it all out".
Laminating in a small pulley wheel at the top would let you have lots of
options, and if you have priced track fo add to the exterior of the mast,
the motivation will be strong to route in that channel.
Good luck,
Jim
David Ryan wrote:
> >on the trial of reasonable 16 ft D Fir 4x4 for the masts.
>
> Leander --
>
> Laminating a pair of 2x4s is really easy. Just use twice as much
> thickened epoxy as you think you need. Still a lot easier than
> finding suitable 4x4s
>
> -David
>
> CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
> 134 W.26th St. 12th Floor
> New York, NY 10001
> (212) 247-0296
>
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Leander,
I too am finishing up my F.S. - and have thought about the same thing. I
recall hearing about a F.S. that mounted a large samson post right abaft the
bulkhead at station #2. Create a nice base of thickend epoxy for the bottom
of the 4X4, and epoxy the forward side to the bulkhead. I would think
something like 6" to 10" pertruding above the fordeck. I'm sure you have
seen how they cut in the tops of these samson posts to hold the lines?
Voila, a handy place for tying off on either side at the dock, or for tying
the anchor off.
I also thought about putting the rear cleats against bulkhead # 14. Then not
only could you tie off, but you could mount a small deployable step ladder to
this cleat to be deployed over the stern to help someone back aboard. It
would need some backing, have you closed off the back section completely?
Gotta run for now, I'm late for a meeting.
Chuck C.
In a message dated 7/4/00 7:13:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,harding2@...
writes:
<< I am beginning to imagine sailing this very long boat, about 10 ft longer
than anything I
have ever sailed. I am also imagining tying it up to the dock or to a buoy
or throwing out
an anchor. I am a convinced believer in not saling even a light skiff
without an anchor.
Having used one to salvage remaining scraps of dignity on several
occassions. The plans
make no provision for deck cleats. I can envsion some cleats on the inside
of the gunwale
near the transom with some large screws going into the wales. I am not sure
what to do at
the bow. I could put a hole through the bow eyes behind the stem, a common
digny solution.
The foredeck is just 1/4 ply as are the sides for that matter. If put
something up there I
think it should have a timber under it. Any schoonerites out there solved
this problem?
Leander >>
I too am finishing up my F.S. - and have thought about the same thing. I
recall hearing about a F.S. that mounted a large samson post right abaft the
bulkhead at station #2. Create a nice base of thickend epoxy for the bottom
of the 4X4, and epoxy the forward side to the bulkhead. I would think
something like 6" to 10" pertruding above the fordeck. I'm sure you have
seen how they cut in the tops of these samson posts to hold the lines?
Voila, a handy place for tying off on either side at the dock, or for tying
the anchor off.
I also thought about putting the rear cleats against bulkhead # 14. Then not
only could you tie off, but you could mount a small deployable step ladder to
this cleat to be deployed over the stern to help someone back aboard. It
would need some backing, have you closed off the back section completely?
Gotta run for now, I'm late for a meeting.
Chuck C.
In a message dated 7/4/00 7:13:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,harding2@...
writes:
<< I am beginning to imagine sailing this very long boat, about 10 ft longer
than anything I
have ever sailed. I am also imagining tying it up to the dock or to a buoy
or throwing out
an anchor. I am a convinced believer in not saling even a light skiff
without an anchor.
Having used one to salvage remaining scraps of dignity on several
occassions. The plans
make no provision for deck cleats. I can envsion some cleats on the inside
of the gunwale
near the transom with some large screws going into the wales. I am not sure
what to do at
the bow. I could put a hole through the bow eyes behind the stem, a common
digny solution.
The foredeck is just 1/4 ply as are the sides for that matter. If put
something up there I
think it should have a timber under it. Any schoonerites out there solved
this problem?
Leander >>
> David,Actually, two 2 x 4s laminated would give just 3 x 3-1/2
>
> Does he need 3 1/2 X 3 1/2" or 4 X 4. Could make a lot of difference.
>
> Cheers/Step
Chuck
The sprint is on to finish the Fldg Schnr with using our old Gypsy as a back up if we don't
make it before July 20. Had mother and youngest son helping paint the interior today. Hot
on the trial of reasonable 16 ft D Fir 4x4 for the masts. Ruel Parker's book on cold molded
building has a section on spars that makes it sound within the level of my wood butchery.
He uses contsrtuction D Fir 4x4s for large gaffs and masts on smaller boats.
I am beginning to imagine sailing this very long boat, about 10 ft longer than anything I
have ever sailed. I am also imagining tying it up to the dock or to a buoy or throwing out
an anchor. I am a convinced believer in not saling even a light skiff without an anchor.
Having used one to salvage remaining scraps of dignity on several occassions. The plans
make no provision for deck cleats. I can envsion some cleats on the inside of the gunwale
near the transom with some large screws going into the wales. I am not sure what to do at
the bow. I could put a hole through the bow eyes behind the stem, a common digny solution.
The foredeck is just 1/4 ply as are the sides for that matter. If put something up there I
think it should have a timber under it. Any schoonerites out there solved this problem?
Leander
make it before July 20. Had mother and youngest son helping paint the interior today. Hot
on the trial of reasonable 16 ft D Fir 4x4 for the masts. Ruel Parker's book on cold molded
building has a section on spars that makes it sound within the level of my wood butchery.
He uses contsrtuction D Fir 4x4s for large gaffs and masts on smaller boats.
I am beginning to imagine sailing this very long boat, about 10 ft longer than anything I
have ever sailed. I am also imagining tying it up to the dock or to a buoy or throwing out
an anchor. I am a convinced believer in not saling even a light skiff without an anchor.
Having used one to salvage remaining scraps of dignity on several occassions. The plans
make no provision for deck cleats. I can envsion some cleats on the inside of the gunwale
near the transom with some large screws going into the wales. I am not sure what to do at
the bow. I could put a hole through the bow eyes behind the stem, a common digny solution.
The foredeck is just 1/4 ply as are the sides for that matter. If put something up there I
think it should have a timber under it. Any schoonerites out there solved this problem?
Leander
>on the trial of reasonable 16 ft D Fir 4x4 for the masts.Leander --
Laminating a pair of 2x4s is really easy. Just use twice as much
thickened epoxy as you think you need. Still a lot easier than
finding suitable 4x4s
-David
CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
134 W.26th St. 12th Floor
New York, NY 10001
(212) 247-0296
In a message dated 07/04/2000 10:<BR16:<BR06 PM
Eastern Daylight,david@...writes:> Laminating a pair of
2x4s is really easy. Just use twice as much
Does he need 3 1/2 X 3 1/2" or 4 X 4. Could make a lot of difference.
Cheers/Step
Eastern Daylight,david@...writes:> Laminating a pair of
2x4s is really easy. Just use twice as much
> thickened epoxy as you think you need. Still a lot easier thanDavid,
> finding suitable 4x4s
Does he need 3 1/2 X 3 1/2" or 4 X 4. Could make a lot of difference.
Cheers/Step