Re: Building Queen Mab
Hi Bruce,
Thanks for your thoughts. I was able to get a copy of the MAIB
article as well as the later one where John Hadden built Queen Mab in
strip built method.
I'm still leaning towards lapstrake although the comments of Dave T.
were very interesting. Light does seem better. I'm thinking 3mm ply
over 3/8ths frames. Let's face it, this is not a cargo hauler.
David
Thanks for your thoughts. I was able to get a copy of the MAIB
article as well as the later one where John Hadden built Queen Mab in
strip built method.
I'm still leaning towards lapstrake although the comments of Dave T.
were very interesting. Light does seem better. I'm thinking 3mm ply
over 3/8ths frames. Let's face it, this is not a cargo hauler.
David
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
>
> I was hoping that someone with explicit experience with Queen Mab
> would jump in...?
>
> I haven't seen the plans for Queen Mab up close. The photolink
shown
> below is scanned from the MAIB article six years ago. It shows
Queen
> Mab, after it was cut free from the strongback.
>
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/hallman/2760785435/
>
> There are different methods of how to build lapstrake like this that
> varies according to personal preference. I have done it twice,
> learning new things each time.
>
> My advice is to leave the frames 'solid' during the straking. Only
> after the straking would I then take a jigsaw and do the center
> cutouts. Also, I would cut the plywood frames to a baseline, some
> equal distance above the waterline. (Above, meaning higher up from
> the kee, perhaps 4 inches above the sheerlinel, although the boat is
> straked upside down.)
>
> Personally, I like installing the plywood frames on a flat 2x6
> strongback, setting on sawhorses. I prefer using scrap wood
> brace/struts cut at 45degrees, anchored in place using a narrow
crown
> air powered stapler. (Which has the advantage of being able to
shoot
> an anchor 'one handed' while the other hand holds the frame/brace
> square in posistion.)
>
> Like this:
>http://sports.webshots.com/photo/1360984644051159125megNfx
>
> Ultimately, the frames need to be aligned to make a fair curve for
the
> bent on keel strip. Part of the beauty of lapstrake construction
like
> this is that you have a lot of tolerance for fudge factors, and the
> boat can still look nice, and work perfectly when things get out of
> alignment by an inch, or more. That is a little mentioned 'gotcha'
> about tack and tape panel boats is that the tolerance there is 1/2"
or
> so, while with lapstrakes the tolerance is vastly more forgiving.
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 12, 2008 at 5:06 PM, millhavenguy <drp122@...> wrote:
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I purchased plans for Queen Mab from Mr. Bolger about a year ago
and
> > have been studying them with an eye to starting her this fall. I
am
> > having a bit of a problem getting started and am not sure quite
how to
> > place the frames vertically above the building frame.
> >
> > Could someone offer advice as to what reference point
(waterline?) from
> > the plans I should use? I am planing to build her in glued
lapstrake.
> >
> > Also if anyone has any pictures of their build I would be very
greatful
> > for a link to them.
> >
> > Best wishes, David
>
You got the big one for 1857, Sepoy Mutiny in India 1857
Dang this printer is fast too
Carl (mr pigg sees a lot of reading going on.) West
_____
From: bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Bruce Hallman
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 6:33 PM
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Building Queen Mab
I was hoping that someone with explicit experience with Queen Mab
would jump in...?
I haven't seen the plans for Queen Mab up close. The photolink shown
below is scanned from the MAIB article six years ago. It shows Queen
Mab, after it was cut free from the strongback.
http://www.flickr. <http://www.flickr.com/photos/hallman/2760785435/>
com/photos/hallman/2760785435/
There are different methods of how to build lapstrake like this that
varies according to personal preference. I have done it twice,
learning new things each time.
My advice is to leave the frames 'solid' during the straking. Only
after the straking would I then take a jigsaw and do the center
cutouts. Also, I would cut the plywood frames to a baseline, some
equal distance above the waterline. (Above, meaning higher up from
the kee, perhaps 4 inches above the sheerlinel, although the boat is
straked upside down.)
Personally, I like installing the plywood frames on a flat 2x6
strongback, setting on sawhorses. I prefer using scrap wood
brace/struts cut at 45degrees, anchored in place using a narrow crown
air powered stapler. (Which has the advantage of being able to shoot
an anchor 'one handed' while the other hand holds the frame/brace
square in posistion.)
Like this:
http://sports. <http://sports.webshots.com/photo/1360984644051159125megNfx>
webshots.com/photo/1360984644051159125megNfx
Ultimately, the frames need to be aligned to make a fair curve for the
bent on keel strip. Part of the beauty of lapstrake construction like
this is that you have a lot of tolerance for fudge factors, and the
boat can still look nice, and work perfectly when things get out of
alignment by an inch, or more. That is a little mentioned 'gotcha'
about tack and tape panel boats is that the tolerance there is 1/2" or
so, while with lapstrakes the tolerance is vastly more forgiving.
On Tue, Aug 12, 2008 at 5:06 PM, millhavenguy <drp122@hotmail.
<mailto:drp122%40hotmail.com> com> wrote:
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.2/1609 - Release Date: 8/13/2008
6:43 AM
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Dang this printer is fast too
Carl (mr pigg sees a lot of reading going on.) West
_____
From: bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
Bruce Hallman
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 6:33 PM
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Building Queen Mab
I was hoping that someone with explicit experience with Queen Mab
would jump in...?
I haven't seen the plans for Queen Mab up close. The photolink shown
below is scanned from the MAIB article six years ago. It shows Queen
Mab, after it was cut free from the strongback.
http://www.flickr. <http://www.flickr.com/photos/hallman/2760785435/>
com/photos/hallman/2760785435/
There are different methods of how to build lapstrake like this that
varies according to personal preference. I have done it twice,
learning new things each time.
My advice is to leave the frames 'solid' during the straking. Only
after the straking would I then take a jigsaw and do the center
cutouts. Also, I would cut the plywood frames to a baseline, some
equal distance above the waterline. (Above, meaning higher up from
the kee, perhaps 4 inches above the sheerlinel, although the boat is
straked upside down.)
Personally, I like installing the plywood frames on a flat 2x6
strongback, setting on sawhorses. I prefer using scrap wood
brace/struts cut at 45degrees, anchored in place using a narrow crown
air powered stapler. (Which has the advantage of being able to shoot
an anchor 'one handed' while the other hand holds the frame/brace
square in posistion.)
Like this:
http://sports. <http://sports.webshots.com/photo/1360984644051159125megNfx>
webshots.com/photo/1360984644051159125megNfx
Ultimately, the frames need to be aligned to make a fair curve for the
bent on keel strip. Part of the beauty of lapstrake construction like
this is that you have a lot of tolerance for fudge factors, and the
boat can still look nice, and work perfectly when things get out of
alignment by an inch, or more. That is a little mentioned 'gotcha'
about tack and tape panel boats is that the tolerance there is 1/2" or
so, while with lapstrakes the tolerance is vastly more forgiving.
On Tue, Aug 12, 2008 at 5:06 PM, millhavenguy <drp122@hotmail.
<mailto:drp122%40hotmail.com> com> wrote:
> Hi all,No virus found in this incoming message.
>
> I purchased plans for Queen Mab from Mr. Bolger about a year ago and
> have been studying them with an eye to starting her this fall. I am
> having a bit of a problem getting started and am not sure quite how to
> place the frames vertically above the building frame.
>
> Could someone offer advice as to what reference point (waterline?) from
> the plans I should use? I am planing to build her in glued lapstrake.
>
> Also if anyone has any pictures of their build I would be very greatful
> for a link to them.
>
> Best wishes, David
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.2/1609 - Release Date: 8/13/2008
6:43 AM
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I was hoping that someone with explicit experience with Queen Mab
would jump in...?
I haven't seen the plans for Queen Mab up close. The photolink shown
below is scanned from the MAIB article six years ago. It shows Queen
Mab, after it was cut free from the strongback.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/hallman/2760785435/
There are different methods of how to build lapstrake like this that
varies according to personal preference. I have done it twice,
learning new things each time.
My advice is to leave the frames 'solid' during the straking. Only
after the straking would I then take a jigsaw and do the center
cutouts. Also, I would cut the plywood frames to a baseline, some
equal distance above the waterline. (Above, meaning higher up from
the kee, perhaps 4 inches above the sheerlinel, although the boat is
straked upside down.)
Personally, I like installing the plywood frames on a flat 2x6
strongback, setting on sawhorses. I prefer using scrap wood
brace/struts cut at 45degrees, anchored in place using a narrow crown
air powered stapler. (Which has the advantage of being able to shoot
an anchor 'one handed' while the other hand holds the frame/brace
square in posistion.)
Like this:
http://sports.webshots.com/photo/1360984644051159125megNfx
Ultimately, the frames need to be aligned to make a fair curve for the
bent on keel strip. Part of the beauty of lapstrake construction like
this is that you have a lot of tolerance for fudge factors, and the
boat can still look nice, and work perfectly when things get out of
alignment by an inch, or more. That is a little mentioned 'gotcha'
about tack and tape panel boats is that the tolerance there is 1/2" or
so, while with lapstrakes the tolerance is vastly more forgiving.
would jump in...?
I haven't seen the plans for Queen Mab up close. The photolink shown
below is scanned from the MAIB article six years ago. It shows Queen
Mab, after it was cut free from the strongback.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/hallman/2760785435/
There are different methods of how to build lapstrake like this that
varies according to personal preference. I have done it twice,
learning new things each time.
My advice is to leave the frames 'solid' during the straking. Only
after the straking would I then take a jigsaw and do the center
cutouts. Also, I would cut the plywood frames to a baseline, some
equal distance above the waterline. (Above, meaning higher up from
the kee, perhaps 4 inches above the sheerlinel, although the boat is
straked upside down.)
Personally, I like installing the plywood frames on a flat 2x6
strongback, setting on sawhorses. I prefer using scrap wood
brace/struts cut at 45degrees, anchored in place using a narrow crown
air powered stapler. (Which has the advantage of being able to shoot
an anchor 'one handed' while the other hand holds the frame/brace
square in posistion.)
Like this:
http://sports.webshots.com/photo/1360984644051159125megNfx
Ultimately, the frames need to be aligned to make a fair curve for the
bent on keel strip. Part of the beauty of lapstrake construction like
this is that you have a lot of tolerance for fudge factors, and the
boat can still look nice, and work perfectly when things get out of
alignment by an inch, or more. That is a little mentioned 'gotcha'
about tack and tape panel boats is that the tolerance there is 1/2" or
so, while with lapstrakes the tolerance is vastly more forgiving.
On Tue, Aug 12, 2008 at 5:06 PM, millhavenguy <drp122@...> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I purchased plans for Queen Mab from Mr. Bolger about a year ago and
> have been studying them with an eye to starting her this fall. I am
> having a bit of a problem getting started and am not sure quite how to
> place the frames vertically above the building frame.
>
> Could someone offer advice as to what reference point (waterline?) from
> the plans I should use? I am planing to build her in glued lapstrake.
>
> Also if anyone has any pictures of their build I would be very greatful
> for a link to them.
>
> Best wishes, David
Hi all,
I purchased plans for Queen Mab from Mr. Bolger about a year ago and
have been studying them with an eye to starting her this fall. I am
having a bit of a problem getting started and am not sure quite how to
place the frames vertically above the building frame.
Could someone offer advice as to what reference point (waterline?) from
the plans I should use? I am planing to build her in glued lapstrake.
Also if anyone has any pictures of their build I would be very greatful
for a link to them.
Best wishes, David
I purchased plans for Queen Mab from Mr. Bolger about a year ago and
have been studying them with an eye to starting her this fall. I am
having a bit of a problem getting started and am not sure quite how to
place the frames vertically above the building frame.
Could someone offer advice as to what reference point (waterline?) from
the plans I should use? I am planing to build her in glued lapstrake.
Also if anyone has any pictures of their build I would be very greatful
for a link to them.
Best wishes, David