Re: Fwd: Sacrificial Anode, OT

Bill,

there are sophisticated electronic devices avaiable that are designed
to stop corrosion/oxidation in motor vehicles. I think some up-market
Japanese etc bikes come with them as standard and some cars have them
as an option.

I believe they are an expensive add-on gadget, upwards of $1000 plus
fitting, but do a fantastic job of keeping things "as new". They do
work for shiny or lustrous metal finishes. I reckon for an expensive
bike they'd be the go, as there's nothing as labour intensive to
maintain in show condition.

Graeme

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, BllFs6@... wrote:
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: bllfs6@...
> To:microcruising@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 4:00 am
> Subject: Sacrificial Anode, OT
>
>
>
> Hi All...
>
> not really boat related, but given that boats often use sacrificial
anodes, I figured this might be the place to ask...
>
> I have an old car, some areas the metal is fine, others it is
deeply pitted/rusting.
>
> I gotten the good metal down to bare metal. The rust areas have
been sanded down as much as I dare. Then a rust remover, naval jelly,
has been used. After meticulous cleaning a rust convertor/inhibitor
will be applied. Then a commerical rust encapsulating primer paint. I
am trying very had to to this just right and am following the
manufacturers instructions as best I can.
>
> Still, I am worried about that rust coming back enough to blister
the paint in short order.
>
> During a bout of insomia....it occured to me......sacrificial
anodes like on boats?
>
> What about on the inside (of the car)?on every discrete body panel
I solder a copper wire to the steel.? Then I run that copper wire to
a chunk of zinc from a boat supply place. Pound it out flat to
increase the surface area to the air. Also run a ground wire from the
zinc directly to the battery (or NOT?)
>
> Yes, I know in theory the whole car body is grounded, but in
practice between the larger surface area, painted parts, rusty
connecting bolts ......there probably are some residual currents
being created.
>
> Would this possibly help any?
>
> Or at the the very least DEFINITELY NOT HURT?? Cause if so I am
pretty tempted to do it..
>
> take care and thanks for any input!
>
>
> Blll
>
>
>
>
> Looking for spoilers and reviews on the new TV season? Get AOL's
ultimate guide to fall TV.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
-----Original Message-----
From:bllfs6@...
To:microcruising@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 4:00 am
Subject: Sacrificial Anode, OT



Hi All...

not really boat related, but given that boats often use sacrificial anodes, I figured this might be the place to ask...

I have an old car, some areas the metal is fine, others it is deeply pitted/rusting.

I gotten the good metal down to bare metal. The rust areas have been sanded down as much as I dare. Then a rust remover, naval jelly, has been used. After meticulous cleaning a rust convertor/inhibitor will be applied. Then a commerical rust encapsulating primer paint. I am trying very had to to this just right and am following the manufacturers instructions as best I can.

Still, I am worried about that rust coming back enough to blister the paint in short order.

During a bout of insomia....it occured to me......sacrificial anodes like on boats?

What about on the inside (of the car)?on every discrete body panel I solder a copper wire to the steel.? Then I run that copper wire to a chunk of zinc from a boat supply place. Pound it out flat to increase the surface area to the air. Also run a ground wire from the zinc directly to the battery (or NOT?)

Yes, I know in theory the whole car body is grounded, but in practice between the larger surface area, painted parts, rusty connecting bolts ......there probably are some residual currents being created.

Would this possibly help any?

Or at the the very least DEFINITELY NOT HURT?? Cause if so I am pretty tempted to do it..

take care and thanks for any input!


Blll




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