Re: Windsprint (scaling up from the Teal)
I probably should keep my opinions to myself because I'm not that much
of a builder, but....
Bolger himself has noted that some of his boats are strong enough, but
maybe not as strong as desirable, depending on what the user wants.
For example, he wrote than the side of the Thomaston Galley would
weave in and out a bit under sail, and he has written that the Folding
Schooner would be better built of heavier stuff if the user could
handle the extra weight in the folding operation (perhaps with some
sort lift arrangement).
My Cynthia J. was 3/8 and the hull was plenty strong, but one of the
seats broke when I stood on it after a couple of years. This is a flat
piece of ply with 1x2 framing.
The lesson I take is that the specified sizes are good enough, but you
don't want to skimp on the quality.
of a builder, but....
Bolger himself has noted that some of his boats are strong enough, but
maybe not as strong as desirable, depending on what the user wants.
For example, he wrote than the side of the Thomaston Galley would
weave in and out a bit under sail, and he has written that the Folding
Schooner would be better built of heavier stuff if the user could
handle the extra weight in the folding operation (perhaps with some
sort lift arrangement).
My Cynthia J. was 3/8 and the hull was plenty strong, but one of the
seats broke when I stood on it after a couple of years. This is a flat
piece of ply with 1x2 framing.
The lesson I take is that the specified sizes are good enough, but you
don't want to skimp on the quality.
Steven:
The scantlings are fine on the Windsprint. I've never even wondered if
the 1/4" plywood was adequate on Otter
(http://www.patrickcrockett.com/boats/index.html)-- it has always
seemed quite strong enough to me. I used to worry about the yard
snapping when the wind came up, but after 10 years of no mishap, I quit
worrying about that.
I did break a rudder in half and broke the rudder stock in half. The
latter was due to a void in the plywood. I used marine ply for the hull
but cut corners with the blades. Not a good plan as it turned out -- the
stock broke as we were careening toward a group of kayaks at the MASCF,
and the rudder folded up a few years later as we were trying to maneuver
out of the way of a ferry.
You can definitely trust Bolger to design a strong, safe boat. (I would
not have had rudder problems if I had built to the design.)
There was a Windsprint with a leeboard at the MASCF one year. Wind
didn't blow hard enough that year to really test it, but I think it was
probably fine. Looked easy but not quite as attractive. The daggerboard
is definitely a pain in shallow water -- you have to pay attention to
how far you are from the edge of the channel. On the other hand, having
the well on the side of the boat opens up the interior and makes for
uncomplicated structural engineering.
I would recommend 2-part purchase on the sheet. Bolger drew a single
part sheet and it was unpleasant to hang on to in any wind at all.
Patrick
Hal Lynch wrote:
The scantlings are fine on the Windsprint. I've never even wondered if
the 1/4" plywood was adequate on Otter
(http://www.patrickcrockett.com/boats/index.html)-- it has always
seemed quite strong enough to me. I used to worry about the yard
snapping when the wind came up, but after 10 years of no mishap, I quit
worrying about that.
I did break a rudder in half and broke the rudder stock in half. The
latter was due to a void in the plywood. I used marine ply for the hull
but cut corners with the blades. Not a good plan as it turned out -- the
stock broke as we were careening toward a group of kayaks at the MASCF,
and the rudder folded up a few years later as we were trying to maneuver
out of the way of a ferry.
You can definitely trust Bolger to design a strong, safe boat. (I would
not have had rudder problems if I had built to the design.)
There was a Windsprint with a leeboard at the MASCF one year. Wind
didn't blow hard enough that year to really test it, but I think it was
probably fine. Looked easy but not quite as attractive. The daggerboard
is definitely a pain in shallow water -- you have to pay attention to
how far you are from the edge of the channel. On the other hand, having
the well on the side of the boat opens up the interior and makes for
uncomplicated structural engineering.
I would recommend 2-part purchase on the sheet. Bolger drew a single
part sheet and it was unpleasant to hang on to in any wind at all.
Patrick
Hal Lynch wrote:
> On Sat, Nov 1, 2008 at 6:18 PM, Steven DAntonio <sdantonio93@...>wrote:
>
>> Well, after having fun with the Teal (which originally was going to be
>> a windsprint, but it got scaled down). I have a few questions.
>>
>> I know the ultimate authority on this is Phil Bolger himself, but I
>> would also like to get a few other opinions first regarding the
>> following changes.
>>
>> 2. Any thoughts regarding using a leeboard instead of a daggerboard
>> (this way I won't crack the daggerboard box when I hit something).
> I use a "Michalak style" leeboard on my teal and it works just fine.
>> . 3/8 ply instead of 1/4.
> I built my Teal using 3/8 ply and it turned out VERY HEAVY. If I had it to
> do over I would use 1/4.
>
>
> hal
>
On Sat, Nov 1, 2008 at 6:18 PM, Steven DAntonio <sdantonio93@...>wrote:
do over I would use 1/4.
hal
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Well, after having fun with the Teal (which originally was going to beI use a "Michalak style" leeboard on my teal and it works just fine.
> a windsprint, but it got scaled down). I have a few questions.
>
> I know the ultimate authority on this is Phil Bolger himself, but I
> would also like to get a few other opinions first regarding the
> following changes.
>
> 2. Any thoughts regarding using a leeboard instead of a daggerboard
> (this way I won't crack the daggerboard box when I hit something).
>
> 3. 3/8 ply instead of 1/4.I built my Teal using 3/8 ply and it turned out VERY HEAVY. If I had it to
>
do over I would use 1/4.
hal
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Steven DAntonio" <sdantonio93@...> wrote:
idea, and he is a very experienced builder/designer himself.
>I would try to comm w' Payson re these changes. The transom is his
> 1. Payson mentioned regarding the teal, if the rear bulkhead is moved
> back and turned into a tombstone transom, this would add a lot of
> stability to the craft.
>
> 2. Any thoughts regarding using a leeboard instead of a daggerboard
> (this way I won't crack the daggerboard box when I hit something).
>
> 3. 3/8 ply instead of 1/4.
>
idea, and he is a very experienced builder/designer himself.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Steven DAntonio" <sdantonio93@...>
wrote: > 2. Any thoughts regarding using a leeboard instead of a
daggerboard (this way I won't crack the daggerboard box when I hit
something).
My own thoughts on the subject are all positive. Anybody who has
spent several weeks in a small C/B equipped cuddy knows that an
outside board can surely be made to perform as well as one inside,
dammit! Install two of them and sleep through your watch like baby
bear in hollow tree with Mama.
Dave
wrote: > 2. Any thoughts regarding using a leeboard instead of a
daggerboard (this way I won't crack the daggerboard box when I hit
something).
My own thoughts on the subject are all positive. Anybody who has
spent several weeks in a small C/B equipped cuddy knows that an
outside board can surely be made to perform as well as one inside,
dammit! Install two of them and sleep through your watch like baby
bear in hollow tree with Mama.
Dave
Well, after having fun with the Teal (which originally was going to be
a windsprint, but it got scaled down). I have a few questions.
I know the ultimate authority on this is Phil Bolger himself, but I
would also like to get a few other opinions first regarding the
following changes.
1. Payson mentioned regarding the teal, if the rear bulkhead is moved
back and turned into a tombstone transom, this would add a lot of
stability to the craft.
2. Any thoughts regarding using a leeboard instead of a daggerboard
(this way I won't crack the daggerboard box when I hit something).
3. 3/8 ply instead of 1/4.
Thanks
Steven
a windsprint, but it got scaled down). I have a few questions.
I know the ultimate authority on this is Phil Bolger himself, but I
would also like to get a few other opinions first regarding the
following changes.
1. Payson mentioned regarding the teal, if the rear bulkhead is moved
back and turned into a tombstone transom, this would add a lot of
stability to the craft.
2. Any thoughts regarding using a leeboard instead of a daggerboard
(this way I won't crack the daggerboard box when I hit something).
3. 3/8 ply instead of 1/4.
Thanks
Steven