Re: Saws, Sawing & Tablesaws in Boatbuilding - WAS 'Cartopper gunwale (gunn'l) ideas please'
snip
Andrew,
Bruce makes a good point, but really took Dynamite's quote out of context.
TRUE - it's the better way to 'break up' a full sheet of plywood then
struggling with it on a table saw - especially when the saw is a 'stand
alone' and there are no extra supports available. I make the 'oversize' and
'rough' cuts this way - either on a 'grid' made from '1x3' stock, or a slab
of 2in 'Styrofoam', etc. I'll even use a circular saw {commonly called a
'Skil Saw' after a specific brand} to cut lengths from 'Dimensional Lumber'
over 8 feet long.
In certain ways I do take my [Table}saw 'to' the work. Most of us don't have
a $2000.xx plus true TABLE saw. Most of us are using a 'contractors', or
'tabletop' type on a stand. The key here is that they are MOVABLE - I put
wheels on my stand. If I have 1 or 2 overlength pieces to cut, I'll just
shift it around a little. If I have a lot to cut . . . I'll 'wheel it'
outside.
In the case of RIP cuts - what you are doing - the trick is 'repeatable
precision', or do it 'rough' and hand plane it to size when it's installed.
This calls for a 'jigged up' table saw, or some arrangement a bit more solid
then the light weight pieces that clamp onto saws.
I have a 'fixture' that I got maybe 20-years ago. It's two pieces of an
aluminum extrusion, a connector {makes the overall length 8ft}, and a couple
of simple clamps that slide onto the extrusion. There are similar ones
offered today. The point is it gives you a 'straight edge' 8ft long x 1/4in
thick that can clamp to a 2{plus} inch workpiece. Of course you have to
measure the 'offset' of the blade on YOUR tool, or cut yourself a 'custom
spacer'.
Another way is to 'custom make' a specific tool. Get a piece of STRAIGHT
'1x4' stock a little longer then the piece you want to cut. Get a piece of
1/4in Masonite the same length and about 12in wide {or you can attach them
'end-to-end' to the '1x4'}. Glue & Screw it to the stock so that on one side
the Masonite extends BEYOND the 'edge-to-blade' distance of the saw, and
some portion extends beyond the other side of the '1x4' stock. When all is
set - CLAMP the '1x4' to a table, or heavy pieces of wood on some sawhorses,
etc. so that the 'saw edge' is free. Lower the blade a bit below the
Masonite, hold the saw TIGHTLY against the side of the stock . . . and cut
the Masonite. Takes longer to explain it then to do it - but you have just
made a Custom Made - to YOUR saw & blade - Extra Long Rip Guide.
For me - anything longer then 8 feet - I'd move the 'tablesaw', attach some
'fingers' to the bed & fence, and use extra supports - fore & aft. {on sale
at under $10 at 'Harbor Freight', etc.- or 'shop built'- I made mine to
attach to sawhorses - 'shop built too}
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
PS - for this type of work and close to home - I'd use the 'tailed' type
circular saw. The only place for 'cordless' is at the Club's waterfront,
etc.
> Posted by: "Bruce Hallman"bruce@...brucehallmansnip
> Date: Wed Nov 5, 2008 7:56 am ((PST))
>> Run a boat-length 2x4 through the table saw
> Much easier to rip a long 2x using a ripping guide on a portable circular
> saw.
> [4 web sites noted]
>
> I think I first learned about this trick from Dyanmite Payson,bringing the
> tool to the wood is easier than bringing the wood to the tool.
Andrew,
Bruce makes a good point, but really took Dynamite's quote out of context.
TRUE - it's the better way to 'break up' a full sheet of plywood then
struggling with it on a table saw - especially when the saw is a 'stand
alone' and there are no extra supports available. I make the 'oversize' and
'rough' cuts this way - either on a 'grid' made from '1x3' stock, or a slab
of 2in 'Styrofoam', etc. I'll even use a circular saw {commonly called a
'Skil Saw' after a specific brand} to cut lengths from 'Dimensional Lumber'
over 8 feet long.
In certain ways I do take my [Table}saw 'to' the work. Most of us don't have
a $2000.xx plus true TABLE saw. Most of us are using a 'contractors', or
'tabletop' type on a stand. The key here is that they are MOVABLE - I put
wheels on my stand. If I have 1 or 2 overlength pieces to cut, I'll just
shift it around a little. If I have a lot to cut . . . I'll 'wheel it'
outside.
In the case of RIP cuts - what you are doing - the trick is 'repeatable
precision', or do it 'rough' and hand plane it to size when it's installed.
This calls for a 'jigged up' table saw, or some arrangement a bit more solid
then the light weight pieces that clamp onto saws.
I have a 'fixture' that I got maybe 20-years ago. It's two pieces of an
aluminum extrusion, a connector {makes the overall length 8ft}, and a couple
of simple clamps that slide onto the extrusion. There are similar ones
offered today. The point is it gives you a 'straight edge' 8ft long x 1/4in
thick that can clamp to a 2{plus} inch workpiece. Of course you have to
measure the 'offset' of the blade on YOUR tool, or cut yourself a 'custom
spacer'.
Another way is to 'custom make' a specific tool. Get a piece of STRAIGHT
'1x4' stock a little longer then the piece you want to cut. Get a piece of
1/4in Masonite the same length and about 12in wide {or you can attach them
'end-to-end' to the '1x4'}. Glue & Screw it to the stock so that on one side
the Masonite extends BEYOND the 'edge-to-blade' distance of the saw, and
some portion extends beyond the other side of the '1x4' stock. When all is
set - CLAMP the '1x4' to a table, or heavy pieces of wood on some sawhorses,
etc. so that the 'saw edge' is free. Lower the blade a bit below the
Masonite, hold the saw TIGHTLY against the side of the stock . . . and cut
the Masonite. Takes longer to explain it then to do it - but you have just
made a Custom Made - to YOUR saw & blade - Extra Long Rip Guide.
For me - anything longer then 8 feet - I'd move the 'tablesaw', attach some
'fingers' to the bed & fence, and use extra supports - fore & aft. {on sale
at under $10 at 'Harbor Freight', etc.- or 'shop built'- I made mine to
attach to sawhorses - 'shop built too}
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
PS - for this type of work and close to home - I'd use the 'tailed' type
circular saw. The only place for 'cordless' is at the Club's waterfront,
etc.