Re: [bolger] Folding Schnr Mast Gypsy Parts
In a message dated 7/8/00 7:33:35 AM Central Daylight Time,harding2@...
writes:
<< Took the mast out of the clamps and weights. I am quite satisfied with the
results. The blank was stragiht against the basement floor and held that
shape
when freed from the clamsps. >>
Congratulations! When I read your first posting on the glue-up, I worried
that you would end up with a permanent bow in your spar, but I see everything
turned out all right. The aspect of your set-up that gave me pause was that
you placed both pieces crown "up". Is this a recommended procedure when
laminating spars?
My knowledge of spar making can be inferred that my only contribution to this
group on the subject was a naive and geometrically incorrect description of
the use of spar gauge for eight-siding a blank. However, ignorance
undeterred, I will record the following:
Twenty-five or so years ago, before the proliferation of manufactured lumber
and pneumatic nailers, load-bearing "headers" for doors, windows and like
openings in supporting walls in residential construction in this area were
made of two thicknesses of 2X dimensional lumber (2X8, 2X10, 2X12, depending
upon the span) joined with 16p common cement coated nails driven by hand with
a 16 oz. hammer. By the standards of platform-and-frame residential
construction it was desirable that these headers be relatively straight and
stable. (standards of fitting required being much less exacting than minimal
suitable standards for boatbuilding) The technique was to cut two selected
relatively straight pieces of dimensional lumber to length. The two pieces
were laid flat on the floor, on atop the other, "crown-up" to "crown-down".
The middle portions of the two pieces were brought together so their edges
were flush and through nailed with the 16p nails. This left the ends of the
pieces out of flush with one another like a pair of partially open scissors.
The ends were "toe-nailed" to draw their edges flush with one another and the
assembly through nailed from both sides to hold them in place. The idea was
that the off-setting bends of the two pieces would cancel each other out,
give a straight header unlikely to warp much in the up-and-down direction
when installed. Anyway, I once made the mistake of nailing together two
pieces of a header with both crown-up, and was treated to a forceful critique
of my lack of technique which did not neglect my disgraceful paternity,
maternity and other attributes. This was followed by (temporary) punitive
relegation to more menial tasks, better suited to someone of my disgraceful
habits, doubtful ancestry and poor personal hygiene, the better to make the
lesson "stick". It stuck, so well, that after all these years, I cringed a
bit at your set-up description. I'm glad to hear that nothing bad happened.
Bill in MN
writes:
<< Took the mast out of the clamps and weights. I am quite satisfied with the
results. The blank was stragiht against the basement floor and held that
shape
when freed from the clamsps. >>
Congratulations! When I read your first posting on the glue-up, I worried
that you would end up with a permanent bow in your spar, but I see everything
turned out all right. The aspect of your set-up that gave me pause was that
you placed both pieces crown "up". Is this a recommended procedure when
laminating spars?
My knowledge of spar making can be inferred that my only contribution to this
group on the subject was a naive and geometrically incorrect description of
the use of spar gauge for eight-siding a blank. However, ignorance
undeterred, I will record the following:
Twenty-five or so years ago, before the proliferation of manufactured lumber
and pneumatic nailers, load-bearing "headers" for doors, windows and like
openings in supporting walls in residential construction in this area were
made of two thicknesses of 2X dimensional lumber (2X8, 2X10, 2X12, depending
upon the span) joined with 16p common cement coated nails driven by hand with
a 16 oz. hammer. By the standards of platform-and-frame residential
construction it was desirable that these headers be relatively straight and
stable. (standards of fitting required being much less exacting than minimal
suitable standards for boatbuilding) The technique was to cut two selected
relatively straight pieces of dimensional lumber to length. The two pieces
were laid flat on the floor, on atop the other, "crown-up" to "crown-down".
The middle portions of the two pieces were brought together so their edges
were flush and through nailed with the 16p nails. This left the ends of the
pieces out of flush with one another like a pair of partially open scissors.
The ends were "toe-nailed" to draw their edges flush with one another and the
assembly through nailed from both sides to hold them in place. The idea was
that the off-setting bends of the two pieces would cancel each other out,
give a straight header unlikely to warp much in the up-and-down direction
when installed. Anyway, I once made the mistake of nailing together two
pieces of a header with both crown-up, and was treated to a forceful critique
of my lack of technique which did not neglect my disgraceful paternity,
maternity and other attributes. This was followed by (temporary) punitive
relegation to more menial tasks, better suited to someone of my disgraceful
habits, doubtful ancestry and poor personal hygiene, the better to make the
lesson "stick". It stuck, so well, that after all these years, I cringed a
bit at your set-up description. I'm glad to hear that nothing bad happened.
Bill in MN