Re: Class IV OSTAR Racer for cruising/voyaging

Another good observation Gary. I guess when staying in shoal waters
for a while the winch could become a fixture there too. The next
thing would be make it electric remote control! That would make
taking the ground at days end as easy as flicking a switch and
lifting the outboard... Hey, maybe the same little winch could help
swing the mast?

Thanks for the tip about the cabin berth/seats.

Graeme



--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "gbship" <gbship@...> wrote:
>
> Graeme: Since the upper part of the keel seems to be fore and
> aft "legs" with the keel completely open in the middle, the winch,
or a
> block for the hoisting line, could be positioned right over the
middle
> of the keel slot on deck. I don't think the boom would be strong
enough
> (this is all assuming the keel is about the same weight as on my
boat).
> You would need some sort of safety line or catch. those could be
tabs
> on the top of the "legs" or maybe a wire from the top of the keel
solid
> part of the keel to a (heavy) bar that sits athwart the keel slot.
>
> BTW, anyone serious about building this could consider a slight
> interior modification. The drawings show an arrangement for a fold
down
> pipe-type berth in the main cabin that can be adjusted for heel.
Bolger
> designed the same thing for my boat. It actually worked as
designed,
> but I never found the pipe berth very comfortable. In addition, it
was
> a bit of a pain to take down and put up, especially in rough
> conditions, when all you wanted was to lay down for a few minutes
or to
> take a short nap. Just be sure to widen the seats underneath to 24
> inches in the head and hip area.
>
> Gary
Graeme: Since the upper part of the keel seems to be fore and
aft "legs" with the keel completely open in the middle, the winch, or a
block for the hoisting line, could be positioned right over the middle
of the keel slot on deck. I don't think the boom would be strong enough
(this is all assuming the keel is about the same weight as on my boat).
You would need some sort of safety line or catch. those could be tabs
on the top of the "legs" or maybe a wire from the top of the keel solid
part of the keel to a (heavy) bar that sits athwart the keel slot.

BTW, anyone serious about building this could consider a slight
interior modification. The drawings show an arrangement for a fold down
pipe-type berth in the main cabin that can be adjusted for heel. Bolger
designed the same thing for my boat. It actually worked as designed,
but I never found the pipe berth very comfortable. In addition, it was
a bit of a pain to take down and put up, especially in rough
conditions, when all you wanted was to lay down for a few minutes or to
take a short nap. Just be sure to widen the seats underneath to 24
inches in the head and hip area.

Gary

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@...>
wrote:
>
> Gary,
>
> that's another good idea.
>
> That should work. Hang the winch from the boom? Or route the cable
via
> some sort of frame positioned over the keel? Have a back-up tackle of
> only a few parts now hooked on as well; not doing any work, but for
> extra security. (I may be paranoid about that keel dropping and
> slamming straight through the bottom!)
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "gbship" <gbship@> wrote:
>
> > How about a trailer winch?
>
Gary,

that's another good idea.

That should work. Hang the winch from the boom? Or route the cable via
some sort of frame positioned over the keel? Have a back-up tackle of
only a few parts now hooked on as well; not doing any work, but for
extra security. (I may be paranoid about that keel dropping and
slamming straight through the bottom!)

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "gbship" <gbship@...> wrote:

> How about a trailer winch?
> I'm trying to think of ways to operate that keel easily, and always
> gently - no slamming down! ...

How about a trailer winch? It would have to be protected from salt
water, but might be feasible, depending on where it's mounted. I use a
Fulton 2500 (rated for 2,500 pounds) to lift and lower my 1,300
pivoting keel on the 30-footer. It's got a large drum suitable for wire
and an internal clutch/brake. Wind it clockwise and it lifts, turn it
counterclockwise and it lowers. There's some mechanism so it
automatically holds in place when you stop cranking. It lives in the
cabin, so it's protected.

Gary
Gary,

say, that's a great idea for sealing the deck opening! Thanks! Maybe
the extra length allowed the swinging mast heel would mean a
tolerably sized counterweight could be used. I'm wary of any weight
in the bow of this boat, and would keep it as light as possible.

I'm trying to think of ways to operate that keel easily, and always
gently - no slamming down! ... A tackle would seem to require too
many parts, at least 10, to be handy, so maybe a car type bottle
jack with pinned stops, or a handy billy slung like the tackle from
the boom, or a hills hoist type of captured spinning nut that's hand
cranked on a threaded shaft... Most sports boats with a ballasted
lifting dagger keel for trailering seem to make use of a dockside
crane, both to raise the keel, and the boat, from the same slinging
point on the keel. This won't do for this OSTAR.

Graeme


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "gbship" <gbship@...> wrote:
>
> Don't see why that wouldn't work, although the boom and it's
gooseneck
> would have be below the pivot point of the tabernacle and have to
be
> attached to the back of the tabernacle instead of the mast. The
> relative ease of construction of this design makes it a good one
for
> dreaming about. If you're only to lower the mast occasionally,
there
> are good and cheap ways to make a pivoting mast that goes through
the
> deck watertight. I seal around mine with cheap, expanding spray
> insulation foam (about $6-$7 a can) & paint it.
>
> Gary
Don't see why that wouldn't work, although the boom and it's gooseneck
would have be below the pivot point of the tabernacle and have to be
attached to the back of the tabernacle instead of the mast. The
relative ease of construction of this design makes it a good one for
dreaming about. If you're only to lower the mast occasionally, there
are good and cheap ways to make a pivoting mast that goes through the
deck watertight. I seal around mine with cheap, expanding spray
insulation foam (about $6-$7 a can) & paint it.

Gary

--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@...>
wrote:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BolgerCartoons/files/Class%20lV%20Ostar%
> 20Racer/
>
> There's only about 4ft bury to this mast. Could it be modified to a
> swinging mast on a 4ft-or-so high tabernacle, simply, and with
neither
> deck slot, nor counter weight? (Lower the mast to motor way up tree
> canopied creeks to wait out a tropical blow etc. Must be strong
still,
> to take a battering at sea... Not a lot more: maybe Chinese gaff the
> sail, fully enclose and maybe widen the dog house... suitable deck
tent
> and furniture.)
>
> Graeme
>
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BolgerCartoons/files/Class%20lV%20Ostar%
20Racer/

There's only about 4ft bury to this mast. Could it be modified to a
swinging mast on a 4ft-or-so high tabernacle, simply, and with neither
deck slot, nor counter weight? (Lower the mast to motor way up tree
canopied creeks to wait out a tropical blow etc. Must be strong still,
to take a battering at sea... Not a lot more: maybe Chinese gaff the
sail, fully enclose and maybe widen the dog house... suitable deck tent
and furniture.)

Graeme