Re: Fldg Schnr Sticker Shock
Back around 1976, I found a blacksmith to make the hinges and latches
for my Folding Schooner. The price was about a third of what the
machine shops wanted. I worked for a shipyard at the time, but they
said I would not be able to afford the cost of the paperwork, let
alone the welding and materials. I did go with the stainless steel,
however, and when this boat rots away, those fittings will still be
like brand new.
Rich Sharp
for my Folding Schooner. The price was about a third of what the
machine shops wanted. I worked for a shipyard at the time, but they
said I would not be able to afford the cost of the paperwork, let
alone the welding and materials. I did go with the stainless steel,
however, and when this boat rots away, those fittings will still be
like brand new.
Rich Sharp
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, Hardings <harding2@h...> wrote:
> Yesterday I went out and got educated on the price of welding in
the Metro New York area. The range for the hinges for the Folding
> Schooner was $440 to $1500 from one guy who wanted to do them out
of the best Stainless. I called Dynamite Payson ( HHP) to ask
> for advice. This is the third time I have called him in 10 years,
once on the Gypsy and the second time on the Schooner. I think I
> am way over any support implied in the plans sale but Mr. Payson is
a true gentleman and a patient teacher. We both think I can
> get the hinges made in Maine for a lot less later this summer. The
plans call for galvinized metal but he suggests simply coating
> regular steel with epoxy and paint. He also suggested using a
different method to lock the chines together. Rather than the chine
> straps in the plans he used stainless straps either side of the
keelson and through bolted with 1/4 bolts. Not as easy to get
> at(has to be done pre launch) but I think a happier solution than
putting holes in your chines below the waterline. He also
> thought a temporary solution of plain steel straps or even stout
oak boards, spanning the hulls over the decks, would work until
> the hinges could be fabricated. He did suggest putting backing of
at least 3/4" under the decking to take the bolts for whatever
> is used to hold the hulls together. Something I had been
contemplating. I am thinking about getting some 5/4 Iroyni (sp) or
> something like(exotic hard wood, sometimes used for hull planking)
that which is sold around here for high priced decking and put
> some below the deck on both hulls and another length spanning the
hulls and through bolt the whole thing profusely while I look
> for a reasonable welder. When the hinges are made I can use the
same bolt holes.
>
> On a brighter note, last night Peter Vanderwaart and I laid out
the foresail and put in the dart which gives it draft and put
> 3/8" polypropelene 3 strand and outdoor carpet tape around the
edges and folded them over and stuck them down. I mostly held the
> end of the tape. Peter is a racer and has done a lot of thinking
about sails and small boats and knows whereof he speaks. Next
> step is renenforicing with sewing or taping. I bought the blue
polytarp because it was available in the sizes I needed but the
> brown stuff is at least twice as good. Having a sail feels great.
>
> Leander
Yesterday I went out and got educated on the price of welding in the Metro New York area. The range for the hinges for the Folding
Schooner was $440 to $1500 from one guy who wanted to do them out of the best Stainless. I called Dynamite Payson ( HHP) to ask
for advice. This is the third time I have called him in 10 years, once on the Gypsy and the second time on the Schooner. I think I
am way over any support implied in the plans sale but Mr. Payson is a true gentleman and a patient teacher. We both think I can
get the hinges made in Maine for a lot less later this summer. The plans call for galvinized metal but he suggests simply coating
regular steel with epoxy and paint. He also suggested using a different method to lock the chines together. Rather than the chine
straps in the plans he used stainless straps either side of the keelson and through bolted with 1/4 bolts. Not as easy to get
at(has to be done pre launch) but I think a happier solution than putting holes in your chines below the waterline. He also
thought a temporary solution of plain steel straps or even stout oak boards, spanning the hulls over the decks, would work until
the hinges could be fabricated. He did suggest putting backing of at least 3/4" under the decking to take the bolts for whatever
is used to hold the hulls together. Something I had been contemplating. I am thinking about getting some 5/4 Iroyni (sp) or
something like(exotic hard wood, sometimes used for hull planking) that which is sold around here for high priced decking and put
some below the deck on both hulls and another length spanning the hulls and through bolt the whole thing profusely while I look
for a reasonable welder. When the hinges are made I can use the same bolt holes.
On a brighter note, last night Peter Vanderwaart and I laid out the foresail and put in the dart which gives it draft and put
3/8" polypropelene 3 strand and outdoor carpet tape around the edges and folded them over and stuck them down. I mostly held the
end of the tape. Peter is a racer and has done a lot of thinking about sails and small boats and knows whereof he speaks. Next
step is renenforicing with sewing or taping. I bought the blue polytarp because it was available in the sizes I needed but the
brown stuff is at least twice as good. Having a sail feels great.
Leander
Schooner was $440 to $1500 from one guy who wanted to do them out of the best Stainless. I called Dynamite Payson ( HHP) to ask
for advice. This is the third time I have called him in 10 years, once on the Gypsy and the second time on the Schooner. I think I
am way over any support implied in the plans sale but Mr. Payson is a true gentleman and a patient teacher. We both think I can
get the hinges made in Maine for a lot less later this summer. The plans call for galvinized metal but he suggests simply coating
regular steel with epoxy and paint. He also suggested using a different method to lock the chines together. Rather than the chine
straps in the plans he used stainless straps either side of the keelson and through bolted with 1/4 bolts. Not as easy to get
at(has to be done pre launch) but I think a happier solution than putting holes in your chines below the waterline. He also
thought a temporary solution of plain steel straps or even stout oak boards, spanning the hulls over the decks, would work until
the hinges could be fabricated. He did suggest putting backing of at least 3/4" under the decking to take the bolts for whatever
is used to hold the hulls together. Something I had been contemplating. I am thinking about getting some 5/4 Iroyni (sp) or
something like(exotic hard wood, sometimes used for hull planking) that which is sold around here for high priced decking and put
some below the deck on both hulls and another length spanning the hulls and through bolt the whole thing profusely while I look
for a reasonable welder. When the hinges are made I can use the same bolt holes.
On a brighter note, last night Peter Vanderwaart and I laid out the foresail and put in the dart which gives it draft and put
3/8" polypropelene 3 strand and outdoor carpet tape around the edges and folded them over and stuck them down. I mostly held the
end of the tape. Peter is a racer and has done a lot of thinking about sails and small boats and knows whereof he speaks. Next
step is renenforicing with sewing or taping. I bought the blue polytarp because it was available in the sizes I needed but the
brown stuff is at least twice as good. Having a sail feels great.
Leander