Re: latex paint for boat hulls.

Quite right. And to add to what the perspicacious Mr. Kohnen said: It's also true that oil-based enamels dry harder and more impervious to moisture transfer than the comparable acrylic latex. The trade-off is that they do eventually get so hard and brittle that they crack... and need to be stripped before recoating - but that's many years later, when one uses a quality paint.

To get back to the original question about the appropriate paint for dagger boards, rudders, etc. - I would not use an acrylic latex for those applications. At the very least, I'd use an oil-based enamel. I used an oil porch & deck paint for the foils on our Puddle Duck racer. But, far better would be a 2-part polyurethan - such as is available from Interlux or Epiphanes. Of all the surfaces on a boat, the foils are subject to some of the roughest use. A hard, slippery paint will be much appreciated over the long haul.

Cheers,
David G
Harbor Woodworks

*************************

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John Kohnen" <jhkohnen@...> wrote:
>
> What we in the US of A, including Dave Carnell and Jim Michalak, call
> "latex" paints don't have any latex in them! The recommended "latex"
> paints are 100% acrylic water based "emulsion" paints (I think that's what
> they call them in Old Blighty). Look for that 100% acrylic on the label
> and you'll be fine.

What we in the US of A, including Dave Carnell and Jim Michalak, call
"latex" paints don't have any latex in them! The recommended "latex"
paints are 100% acrylic water based "emulsion" paints (I think that's what
they call them in Old Blighty). Look for that 100% acrylic on the label
and you'll be fine.

On Tue, 25 Aug 2009 23:21:55 -0700, Andrew W wrote:

> ...
> The question is... are the water-based acrylics as effective as the
> latex paints mentioned in the Dave Carnell articles (and I believe also
> used by Jim Michalak)? I am assuming they probably are and am hoping
> someone can confirm it.
> ...

--
John <jkohnen@...>
The world is a skirt I want to lift up. <Hanif Kureishi>

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Andrew,
It wold be a safe bet that water based acrylic paint is the same thing we are calling "100% acrylic latex" in the U.S. There was a time when latex paint was not 100% acrylic here in the U.S., and when the 100% Acrylic came out it was still called "latex". An earlier post in response to my question on this forum explains the same.

Pat

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Wallace <visayannz@...> wrote:
>
> Pat - thanks for the info on the wet sanding, I will need that advice for the future. I'll be starting painting of the Featherwind in a few weeks and my present concern is that I can't find any latex-based paints. The question is... are the water-based acrylics as effective as the latex paints mentioned in the Dave Carnell articles (and I believe also used by Jim Michalak)? I am assuming they probably are and am hoping someone can confirm it.
> Thanks again,
> Andrew.
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: spincircles2003 <ispincircles2@...>
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, 26 August, 2009 12:35:59 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: latex paint for boat hulls.
>
>
> You can most easily WET sand latex paint ( I assume your water based really is latex). do this when is gets scuffed and you need to touch it up.
>
> Pat Smith
>

Hi Pat,

> Anyone with actual experience of latex paint for "wear" items like dagger boards, paddles, rudders, etc?
>
> I'm tempted to use some flat 100 percent acrylic latex on the wood dagger board and rudder of a gypsy.
>
> I'm not afraid of occasional touching up, but wont to it if it's going to be a disaster.
>
> I will NOT varnish it or used clear epoxy. I have too many boats, so have no time for / hate brightwork. I could be tempted to use honest to goodness marine 2 part poly, but I have even less money than time. Latex = $13 per gallon!

I've painted two hulls with oil-based enamels, and 10 boats with acrylic latex housepaint. The oil-based paints took a long (weeks) time to fully dry, but gave a harder, glossier finish. The acrylic paints dry much faster, but still need a couple of weeks to fully cure, it seems.

The acrylic latex will wear off with use. The oil-based enamel eventually cracks and peels. I'll take wearing off over cracking and peeling. Besides that, I keep using the acrylic latex simply because it's inexpensive, safe and easy to work with, and I don't mind touching up a few spots every year. Keep in mind that this is all on boats small enough to manhandle alone.

For daggerboards and rudders, I've had very good luck using Sherwin-Williams Tile Clad II two-part epoxy paint. It's expensive and unpleasant to use, but it provides a nearly bulletproof finish for these items. It's pretty thick, but I believe there's a thinner for it - I just put it on with a squeegee and try to get it smooth. It's possible you could add graphite to this paint, but I haven't tried it.

One of these days I'm going to try some linear polyurethane automotive paint if I can figure out how to apply it myself without melting my brain or buying expensive equipment.

Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm

Reading this email at work?Make a change with Yahoo!Xtra Jobs

I don't use any coarser than 240 for between coats.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin A. Donohue" <kadonohue@...>
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 6:29 PM


Wet sand question.
What is the maximum grit you can wet sand 100% acrylic?


From: spincircles2003
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 5:35 PM

You can most easily WET sand latex paint ( I assume your water based really is
latex). do this when is gets scuffed and you need to touch it up.

In the USA, the terminology got screwed up 40 years ago. Original latex paints werereplaced early in favor of paints with an Acrylic base. Nowdays, the only true "Latex" paints are used for coating ponds and tank for exotic fish, and other specialty uses like that.=

You can most easily WET sand latex paint ( I assume your water based really is latex). do this when is gets scuffed and you need to touch it up.

Pat Smith

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Andrew Wallace <visayannz@...> wrote:
>
> I too am interested in other user's experiences with Latex paints on boats. Having read Dave Carnell's very informative writings on the subject I went looking for latex-based paints and couldn't find a single can of paint anywhere, which mentioned the word 'latex'.By 'anywhere' I mean in New Zealand.
> Was told by one of the sales people (who didn't seem too certain about it) that the water based acrylics are all the same as latex-based paints.
> Being a complete zombie where chemistry and paints are concerned I would really like some good advice. I'm not looking for a boat-show finish, just a finish that is easy to touch up as needed. Is there anyone out there who can help?
> Andrew.
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: spincircles2003 <ispincircles2@...>
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, 26 August, 2009 9:40:31 AM
> Subject: [bolger] latex paint for "wear" items like dagger boards, paddles, rudders, etc?
>
>
> Anyone with actual experience of latex paint for "wear" items like dagger boards, paddles, rudders, etc?
>
> I'm tempted to use some flat 100 percent acrylic latex on the wood dagger board and rudder of a gypsy.
>
> I'm not afraid of occasional touching up, but wont to it if it's going to be a disaster.
>
> I will NOT varnish it or used clear epoxy. I have too many boats, so have no time for / hate brightwork. I could be tempted to use honest to goodness marine 2 part poly, but I have even less money than time. Latex = $13 per gallon!
>
> Regards,
>
> Pat Smith
>

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--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "spincircles2003" <ispincircles2@...> wrote:

>
> Anyone with actual experience of latex paint for "wear" items like dagger boards, paddles, rudders, etc?
>

I painted my cartopper (see the photo's section) outside, rudder and centreboard with semi-gloss acrylic and the inside with gloss acrylic (they were both supposed to be gloss - but I didn't read the can properly when I bought it). All surfaces had epoxy on them first.

The semi-gloss is much harder to keep clean. It also doesn't seem to be as hard - it has rubbed off on in spots on the chines already. I would only use gloss in the future.

The rudder and centreboard have some scratches where the paint has come off due to some grit. So if it is a long lasting great looking finish you are looking for acrylic doesn't seem hard enough IMHO.

My previous project was a little 7' rowboat (http://www.boatbuilder.com.au/images/stories/mag/smiggy.pdf)that I painted in household enamel paint (turpentine wash-up as opposed to water wash-up). I bought pre-tinted bright colours from our local hardware. This was a much more successful paint because it is glossier (=easier to keep clean) and harder.

I intend to repaint the outside+centreboard of my cartopper in gloss enamel or gloss acrylic before the coming summer season.

Andrew

If you have some epoxy sitting around, get a can of graphite and add it to the mix. It makes a wonderful surface for wet sanding. Smooth blades are a good thing.

You could use latex if the .025 kt difference doesn't bother you ;-)


I am obsessing about the final finish on my work skiff and am trying to avoid using the epoxy glass solution that I know works pretty darned good.

Anyone with actual experience of latex paint for "wear" items like dagger boards, paddles, rudders, etc?

I'm tempted to use some flat 100 percent acrylic latex on the wood dagger board and rudder of a gypsy.

I'm not afraid of occasional touching up, but wont to it if it's going to be a disaster.

I will NOT varnish it or used clear epoxy. I have too many boats, so have no time for / hate brightwork. I could be tempted to use honest to goodness marine 2 part poly, but I have even less money than time. Latex = $13 per gallon!

Regards,

Pat Smith