Re: long micro nearing completion Thailand new pics
So then Pat, did you clear finish the spars for your beautiful Micro? Probably a very nice colour contrast, hey?
I tried to keep the bright work to a minimum. Just cockpit combing hatches. tiller ect.. I was tempted to but rather be sailing than sanding.I did use it a bit on the intrerior. Realy nice wood to work with and it smells like sandalwood.
I have enjoyed building this boat so much the sailing will be icing on the cake.
Cheers
PAT
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Pat <patjah@...> wrote:
Graeme
>So then Pat, did you clear finish the spars for your beautiful Micro? Probably a very nice colour contrast, hey?
> In Thailand Australian Red Cedar Is called Mai Yom Horm.
Graeme
All good info here. I was hoping to bring out some experts fron the NW US. Thanks.
Joe T
Joe T
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul & Susanne" <glassens@...> wrote:
>
> As a resident of British Columbia, I humbly beg to differ; red cedar was the primary wood for native dug out canoes in the northwest. The larger, ocean going ones were built up to 50-60 feet in length. Although old, first-growth cedars grew to great dimensions, a canoe could be considerably wider in beam than the diameter of the log it was carved from. After hollowing out, the shell would be filled with water. Than rocks heated in a fire would be put into the water to soften the hull. Gradually longer thwarts would be worked in spreading the gunwales and creating flare in the topsides. You are correct that western read cedar can be quite soft on the surface. The native people dealt with that by 'fire hardening' and by treatment with shark oil. I remember reading that the ultimate shape of the large sea going canoes was very like that arrrived at by 19th century ship builders for the great clipper ships.
>
> Paul Glassen
> Nanaimo
> Vancouver Island
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Larry Geib
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, September 07, 2009 1:36 AM
> Subject: [SPAM]Re: [bolger] Re: long micro nearing completion Thailand new pics
>
>
> Western Red is pretty soft, some say to soft even for planking unless
> used in conjunction with epoxies.
>
> Two fine cedars for boatbuilding are Port Orford cedar and Alaska
> Yellow cedar. They'd both make great spars.
>
> Port Orford is from Southern Oregon and N. California and is prized
> for planking and Spars. It was often used in Greene and Greene
> craftsman style houses for paneling, beams, and carved trim. Great
> wood blond in color and straight tight grain. - kind of expensive
> now. I have some salvage first growth beams waiting for an
> appropriate project.
>
> Alaska yellow cedar is the hardest of the cedars, grown up the West
> coast starting in Washington State (though it's mostly gone in
> Washington, now commercially.) Also a great wood, straight and tight
> grain with no checking or splitting. Often totem poles and native
> log canoes were made from it.
>
> Both would make great spars for a small boat.
>
> Larry
>
> On Sep 6, 2009, at 8:18 PM, scsbmsjoe wrote:
>
> > Graeme
> >
> > Douglas Fir, also called Oregon Pine, is quite different from Red
> > Cedar. Douglas Fir is used for spars though Sitka Spruce is lighter
> > weight and prefered for spars on small boats in the US.
> >
> > Joe T
> >
>
As a resident of British Columbia, I humbly beg to
differ; red cedar was the primary wood for native dug out canoes in the
northwest. The larger, ocean going ones were built up to 50-60 feet
in length. Although old, first-growth cedars grew to great
dimensions, a canoe could be considerably wider in beam than
the diameter of the log it was carved from. After hollowing out, the
shell would be filled with water. Than rocks heated in a fire would be put
into the water to soften the hull. Gradually longer thwarts would be
worked in spreading the gunwales and creating flare in the topsides. You
are correct that western read cedar can be quite soft on the surface. The
native people dealt with that by 'fire hardening' and by treatment with shark
oil. I remember reading that the ultimate shape of the large sea going
canoes was very like that arrrived at by 19th century ship builders for the
great clipper ships.
Paul Glassen
Nanaimo
Vancouver Island
----- Original Message -----From:Larry GeibSent:Monday, September 07, 2009 1:36 AMSubject:[SPAM]Re: [bolger] Re: long micro nearing completion Thailand new picsWestern Red is pretty soft, some say to soft even for planking unless
used in conjunction with epoxies.
Two fine cedars for boatbuilding are Port Orford cedar and Alaska
Yellow cedar. They'd both make great spars.
Port Orford is from Southern Oregon and N. California and is prized
for planking and Spars. It was often used in Greene and Greene
craftsman style houses for paneling, beams, and carved trim. Great
wood blond in color and straight tight grain. - kind of expensive
now. I have some salvage first growth beams waiting for an
appropriate project.
Alaska yellow cedar is the hardest of the cedars, grown up the West
coast starting in Washington State (though it's mostly gone in
Washington, now commercially. ) Also a great wood, straight and tight
grain with no checking or splitting. Often totem poles and native
log canoes were made from it.
Both would make great spars for a small boat.
Larry
On Sep 6, 2009, at 8:18 PM, scsbmsjoe wrote:
> Graeme
>
> Douglas Fir, also called Oregon Pine, is quite different from Red
> Cedar. Douglas Fir is used for spars though Sitka Spruce is lighter
> weight and prefered for spars on small boats in the US.
>
> Joe T
>
In Thailand Australian Red Cedar Is called Mai Yom Horm. I understand from my father in law who has been making pianos in Thailand for 40years and is quite knowledgeable about tropical hardwoods and there uses, that they used this timber to make airplanes during the Second World War. It has a very unique aroma, it is very light strong and flexible. I believe most comes from Malaysia, Lao, Burma and Cambodia these days. It cost approx the same as grade b Teak in Thailand not very expensive as my 2 mast one 30 feet long the other 15 feet cost 200us$ for the wood.
Cheers
PAT
Toona ciliataM. Roem.
SYNONYM(S) : Cedrela australisR.Mudie, Cedrela toonaRoxb. ex. Rottler, Cedrela toonaRoxb. ex Willd., Cedrela velutinaDC., Toona australisF. Muell.,Toona australis(F. Muell.) Harms,Toona ciliataM. Roem. var.australis(F. Muell.) K.N. Bahadur,Toona microcarpa(C. DC.) Harms
BENGALI :
Tuun (Tun), Tuni.
BURMESE : Mai yom horm, Taung tama, Taw thamgo, Thit kador .
CHINESE : 红椿 Hong chun, 小果红椿 Xiao guo hong chun (as T. microcarpa).
ENGLISH : Australian cedar, Australian red cedar, Australian cedar, Burma cedar, Burma toon, Harms red cedar, Indian mahogany, Moulmein cedar (Myanmar), Queensland red cedar (Aust.), Red cedar, Toon.
FRENCH : C�e rouge, C�e rouge d'Australie.
GERMAN : Australisches mahagoni, Australisches Zeder.
SYNONYM(S) : Cedrela australisR.Mudie, Cedrela toonaRoxb. ex. Rottler, Cedrela toonaRoxb. ex Willd., Cedrela velutinaDC., Toona australisF. Muell.,Toona australis(F. Muell.) Harms,Toona ciliataM. Roem. var.australis(F. Muell.) K.N. Bahadur,Toona microcarpa(C. DC.) Harms
BENGALI :
Tuun (Tun), Tuni.BURMESE : Mai yom horm, Taung tama, Taw thamgo, Thit kador .
CHINESE : 红椿 Hong chun, 小果红椿 Xiao guo hong chun (as T. microcarpa).
ENGLISH : Australian cedar, Australian red cedar, Australian cedar, Burma cedar, Burma toon, Harms red cedar, Indian mahogany, Moulmein cedar (Myanmar), Queensland red cedar (Aust.), Red cedar, Toon.
FRENCH : C�e rouge, C�e rouge d'Australie.
GERMAN : Australisches mahagoni, Australisches Zeder.
Western Red is pretty soft, some say to soft even for planking unless
used in conjunction with epoxies.
Two fine cedars for boatbuilding are Port Orford cedar and Alaska
Yellow cedar. They'd both make great spars.
Port Orford is from Southern Oregon and N. California and is prized
for planking and Spars. It was often used in Greene and Greene
craftsman style houses for paneling, beams, and carved trim. Great
wood blond in color and straight tight grain. - kind of expensive
now. I have some salvage first growth beams waiting for an
appropriate project.
Alaska yellow cedar is the hardest of the cedars, grown up the West
coast starting in Washington State (though it's mostly gone in
Washington, now commercially.) Also a great wood, straight and tight
grain with no checking or splitting. Often totem poles and native
log canoes were made from it.
Both would make great spars for a small boat.
Larry
used in conjunction with epoxies.
Two fine cedars for boatbuilding are Port Orford cedar and Alaska
Yellow cedar. They'd both make great spars.
Port Orford is from Southern Oregon and N. California and is prized
for planking and Spars. It was often used in Greene and Greene
craftsman style houses for paneling, beams, and carved trim. Great
wood blond in color and straight tight grain. - kind of expensive
now. I have some salvage first growth beams waiting for an
appropriate project.
Alaska yellow cedar is the hardest of the cedars, grown up the West
coast starting in Washington State (though it's mostly gone in
Washington, now commercially.) Also a great wood, straight and tight
grain with no checking or splitting. Often totem poles and native
log canoes were made from it.
Both would make great spars for a small boat.
Larry
On Sep 6, 2009, at 8:18 PM, scsbmsjoe wrote:
> Graeme
>
> Douglas Fir, also called Oregon Pine, is quite different from Red
> Cedar. Douglas Fir is used for spars though Sitka Spruce is lighter
> weight and prefered for spars on small boats in the US.
>
> Joe T
>
Graeme
Douglas Fir, also called Oregon Pine, is quite different from Red Cedar. Douglas Fir is used for spars though Sitka Spruce is lighter weight and prefered for spars on small boats in the US.
Joe T
Douglas Fir, also called Oregon Pine, is quite different from Red Cedar. Douglas Fir is used for spars though Sitka Spruce is lighter weight and prefered for spars on small boats in the US.
Joe T
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@...> wrote:
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@> wrote:
> >
> > So whats Australian red cedar like, I have never heard of it. Mai
> > Nam Dang is another unknown.
>
> Toona australis - red cedar. The east coast of Oz was largely explored by european timber getters looking for this. Absolutely fantastic furniture timber. Usually found in wet forests on the upland eastern escarpment of the great dividing range, Victoria to Cape York, was in the lowland rainforest of the wet tropics too. Very hard to obtain now. Very prone to pests and disease outside of the forest ecosystem. Despite much research it has proved impossible to grow in plantation monoculture, like many tropical forest tree species. Some mixed species small plantation trials have returned somewhat mixed results.
>
> I've not heard of it used for spars, though they would look splendid if bright finished! I wonder if it's not actually something like western red cedar (douglas fir?) imported via Australia?
>
> Graeme
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
I've not heard of it used for spars, though they would look splendid if bright finished! I wonder if it's not actually something like western red cedar (douglas fir?) imported via Australia?
Graeme
>Toona australis - red cedar. The east coast of Oz was largely explored by european timber getters looking for this. Absolutely fantastic furniture timber. Usually found in wet forests on the upland eastern escarpment of the great dividing range, Victoria to Cape York, was in the lowland rainforest of the wet tropics too. Very hard to obtain now. Very prone to pests and disease outside of the forest ecosystem. Despite much research it has proved impossible to grow in plantation monoculture, like many tropical forest tree species. Some mixed species small plantation trials have returned somewhat mixed results.
> So whats Australian red cedar like, I have never heard of it. Mai
> Nam Dang is another unknown.
I've not heard of it used for spars, though they would look splendid if bright finished! I wonder if it's not actually something like western red cedar (douglas fir?) imported via Australia?
Graeme
Tks Bruce. I'll do that. This is my first boatbuilding project
(should've started with an easier one ...I know....) and a scale model
will help a lot !
Em Ter, 2009-09-01 às 07:31 -0700, Bruce Hallman escreveu:
(should've started with an easier one ...I know....) and a scale model
will help a lot !
Em Ter, 2009-09-01 às 07:31 -0700, Bruce Hallman escreveu:
>
> On Sun, Aug 30, 2009 at 10:23 AM, Andre Basso<andre_basso@...>
> wrote:
>
> > I've just bought Micro plans and I'm still lost among drawings. I
> hope
> > to start building in the next couple of years.
>
> You might want to consider building the Micro first as a scale model,
> it will help you better understand the shape.
>
>
>
>
On Sun, Aug 30, 2009 at 10:23 AM, Andre Basso<andre_basso@...> wrote:
it will help you better understand the shape.
> I've just bought Micro plans and I'm still lost among drawings. I hopeYou might want to consider building the Micro first as a scale model,
> to start building in the next couple of years.
it will help you better understand the shape.
> Wonderful pics Pat (and boat too !) .No I have built the long dory19 feet, a couple of Garvy's 17 feet and a wharram catamaran of 17 feet. But this is the most complicated project yet.
>
> Is she your first boatbuilding experience ?
>It is not an easy boat to build but it is rewarding ...good luck.
> I've just bought Micro plans and I'm still lost among drawings. I hope
> to start building in the next couple of years.
>I will. I hope to sail it off Phuket and Krabi. I live approx 1000 kilometers
> Congratulations and keep us posted !
from the ocean. I may but it on a trailer or just ship it down with the trailer.
>
> Em Dom, 2009-08-30 Ã s 07:12 +0000, namkianorbu escreveu:
> >
> > long micro nearing completion Thailand new pics
> >
> > Some pics of my Long Micro nearing completion.
> > Building specs
> > -marine ply 3/8" (thaiMade)
> > -rose wood(tillerruder post Trim), teak, Australian red cedar (spars).
> > Mai Nam Dang (frames)
> > -3 layers of epoxy inside and out, Outside sheathed with 6oz glass and
> > epoxy, 2 coats of epoxy tie paint (epoxy vinyl) 3 coats of epoxy top
> > coat. Anti slip applied to deck and cockpit
> > -Time to build 6months full time
> > -buildt to plans more or less
> > -Cost approx US$5700
> >
> > Cheers
> > PAT
> > see link for pics
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/photos/album/1488378163/pic/list
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Wonderful pics Pat (and boat too !) .
Is she your first boatbuilding experience ?
I've just bought Micro plans and I'm still lost among drawings. I hope
to start building in the next couple of years.
Congratulations and keep us posted !
André.
Em Dom, 2009-08-30 às 07:12 +0000, namkianorbu escreveu:
Is she your first boatbuilding experience ?
I've just bought Micro plans and I'm still lost among drawings. I hope
to start building in the next couple of years.
Congratulations and keep us posted !
André.
Em Dom, 2009-08-30 às 07:12 +0000, namkianorbu escreveu:
>
> long micro nearing completion Thailand new pics
>
> Some pics of my Long Micro nearing completion.
> Building specs
> -marine ply 3/8" (thaiMade)
> -rose wood(tillerruder post Trim), teak, Australian red cedar (spars).
> Mai Nam Dang (frames)
> -3 layers of epoxy inside and out, Outside sheathed with 6oz glass and
> epoxy, 2 coats of epoxy tie paint (epoxy vinyl) 3 coats of epoxy top
> coat. Anti slip applied to deck and cockpit
> -Time to build 6months full time
> -buildt to plans more or less
> -Cost approx US$5700
>
> Cheers
> PAT
> see link for pics
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/photos/album/1488378163/pic/list
>
>
>
>
>
So whats Australian red cedar like, I have never heard of it. Mai Nam
Dang is another unknown.
HJ
namkianorbu wrote:
Dang is another unknown.
HJ
namkianorbu wrote:
> long micro nearing completion Thailand new pics
>
> Some pics of my Long Micro nearing completion.
> Building specs
> -marine ply 3/8" (thaiMade)
> -rose wood(tillerruder post Trim), teak, Australian red cedar (spars). Mai Nam Dang (frames)
> -3 layers of epoxy inside and out, Outside sheathed with 6oz glass and epoxy, 2 coats of epoxy tie paint (epoxy vinyl) 3 coats of epoxy top coat. Anti slip applied to deck and cockpit
> -Time to build 6months full time
> -buildt to plans more or less
> -Cost approx US$5700
>
> Cheers
> PAT
> see link for pics
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/photos/album/1488378163/pic/list
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
long micro nearing completion Thailand new pics
Some pics of my Long Micro nearing completion.
Building specs
-marine ply 3/8" (thaiMade)
-rose wood(tillerruder post Trim), teak, Australian red cedar (spars). Mai Nam Dang (frames)
-3 layers of epoxy inside and out, Outside sheathed with 6oz glass and epoxy, 2 coats of epoxy tie paint (epoxy vinyl) 3 coats of epoxy top coat. Anti slip applied to deck and cockpit
-Time to build 6months full time
-buildt to plans more or less
-Cost approx US$5700
Cheers
PAT
see link for pics
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/photos/album/1488378163/pic/list
Some pics of my Long Micro nearing completion.
Building specs
-marine ply 3/8" (thaiMade)
-rose wood(tillerruder post Trim), teak, Australian red cedar (spars). Mai Nam Dang (frames)
-3 layers of epoxy inside and out, Outside sheathed with 6oz glass and epoxy, 2 coats of epoxy tie paint (epoxy vinyl) 3 coats of epoxy top coat. Anti slip applied to deck and cockpit
-Time to build 6months full time
-buildt to plans more or less
-Cost approx US$5700
Cheers
PAT
see link for pics
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/photos/album/1488378163/pic/list