Re: [bolger] Re: 25' Chebacco?

Bruce

Do you have a Freeship on the 25? How about Strake layout.

HJ

Bruce Hallman wrote:
> PCB: "This was supposed to be the next step in the Story Boatbuilding
> Chebacco series, but Story has been at full stretch on custom work. A
> boat to this design ins under construction in Australia. It's
> basically a stretch of the rounded-side, clinker planked version of
> the Chebacco 20 cat-yawl, with a raised deck instead of the
> 20-footer's trun, for more cabin space and more buoyancy in knockdowns
> (the trunk-cabin boats have not had any problems, but more buoyancy is
> always better.)
>
> "The keel was made 4" deeper, to take advantage of the 20-footer's
> surprising ability to sail with her centerboard fully raised.
>
> "The 25-footer could stand a lot more sail, but the 20-footer is the
> same breadth and underwater section, and doesn't have a lot more
> wetted surface. Neither has any ballast. The motor installation is
> so efficient and convenient that there isn't much hesitation to start
> the motor when the wind drops, while the sort rig is a blessing in a
> squall."
>
> On Fri, Oct 9, 2009 at 4:27 AM, Andrew <a.c.l.yen@...> wrote:
>
>>
>> In one of the Bolger Yahoo group databases there is the following reference:
>>
>> Chebacco 25 #602 25'4''x7'11'' PB&F Ref: MAIB V#12No 4
>>
>> Has anyone got MAIB Volume 12 #4? It would be interesting to see what Phil said about the Chebacco 25 in that article.
>>
>> Andrew
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Bolger rules!!!
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> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
PCB: "This was supposed to be the next step in the Story Boatbuilding
Chebacco series, but Story has been at full stretch on custom work. A
boat to this design ins under construction in Australia. It's
basically a stretch of the rounded-side, clinker planked version of
the Chebacco 20 cat-yawl, with a raised deck instead of the
20-footer's trun, for more cabin space and more buoyancy in knockdowns
(the trunk-cabin boats have not had any problems, but more buoyancy is
always better.)

"The keel was made 4" deeper, to take advantage of the 20-footer's
surprising ability to sail with her centerboard fully raised.

"The 25-footer could stand a lot more sail, but the 20-footer is the
same breadth and underwater section, and doesn't have a lot more
wetted surface. Neither has any ballast. The motor installation is
so efficient and convenient that there isn't much hesitation to start
the motor when the wind drops, while the sort rig is a blessing in a
squall."

On Fri, Oct 9, 2009 at 4:27 AM, Andrew <a.c.l.yen@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> In one of the Bolger Yahoo group databases there is the following reference:
>
> Chebacco 25 #602 25'4''x7'11'' PB&F Ref: MAIB V#12No 4
>
> Has anyone got MAIB Volume 12 #4? It would be interesting to see what Phil said about the Chebacco 25 in that article.
>
> Andrew
In one of the Bolger Yahoo group databases there is the following reference:

Chebacco 25 #602 25'4''x7'11'' PB&F Ref: MAIB V#12No 4

Has anyone got MAIB Volume 12 #4? It would be interesting to see what Phil said about the Chebacco 25 in that article.

Andrew

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <a.c.l.yen@...> wrote:
>
> For some time I have been playing with the drawings in BWAOM and have some incomplete CAD sketches of the Chebacco 20 (Lapstrake version) and 25 derived from the tables of offsets.
>
> I was trying to compare their sizes and shapes.
>
> I have posted some of my sketches here:
>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/Chebacco%2025'/
>
> (Please excuse the fact that they are just sketches and not all of the lines meet up etc.)
>
> You can immediately see how similar the hull section shapes are. Phil Bolger has stretched the distance between stations on the 25 and has added freeboard.
>
> Andrew
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Kimbro, Ray (N-SAIC)" <ray.kimbro@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Folks -
> >
> > I read a brief mention of a 25' Chebacco on the Chebacco News site. If y'all would entertain some questions, I've got a few.
> >
> >
> > 1) Did Mr. Bolger design this, or did someone extrapolate #s to extend the 20' plans?
> >
> > 2) Has one of these actually launched?
> >
> > 3) If so, how does it sail?
> >
> > 4) Any pics?
> >
> > I've been very fond of the Chebacco design since I first saw it in the early 90s - but, the 20' version is just a bit small for my family. I think that the 25' would make a great trailerable daysailer for the family, long-weekend cruiser for myself, and mebbe one other kid (I'm a horrible packrat, and tend to overpack for everything).
> >
> > So - if anyone knows of a 25' Chebacco, I'd be very interested in chatting w/the builder and/or owner.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
>
The epoxy is fairly flexible, both in compression and tension, so it takes virtually none of those loads.  The loads are taken by the glass fibers.  The epoxy is there to immobilize the fibers so they can take higher loads.  If the epoxy eventually gets brittle, it could develop micro-cracks when stressed.  But when a newish epoxy/glass panel is bent onto a boat, the epoxy easily flexes, then slightly relaxes ("creeps") and assumes a new "permanently bent" form.  Then it may become brittle after a long time, but it will not crack until some new force flexes it sufficiently out of the "permanent" form.
 
- Bill

From:bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf OfChristopher C. Wetherill
Sent:Wednesday, October 07, 2009 11:36 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Re: 25' Chebacco?

 

This raises the question of crazing. When you epoxy a flat piece of
plywood and then flex it, you load the convex surface in tension and the
concave surface in compression. What keeps them from cracking?

V/R
Chris

eric14850 wrote:
> If I were building in lapstrake I would epoxi a layer of fiberglass to both sides of the plywood sheets before cutting the strakes to protect the plywood and provide a good surface for paint. It would allow using fir plywood which needs something done to the surface if paint is to look good on it.
>
>

They are sheet ply plans. A very low profile cabin the same as this drawing I thinkhttp://www.instantboats.com/chebacco.html

Reduced drawings with building instructions.

Mike

On Fri, Oct 9, 2009 at 12:07 AM, Andrew<a.c.l.yen@...>wrote:



--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Mike John <mikeduckboatman@...> wrote:
>
> Chebacco 20 plans are in Payson's new book

I haven't got Payson's book. Which plans has he got for the Chebacco in it, the same ones as are in BWAOM? Sheet ply only I presume. Which cabin? Are they the same plans Dynamite sells (or a reduced copy of same)?

Andrew




--
Mike

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/indexes.htm
Preventing crazing is one of the reasons for reinforcing the epoxy with fiberglass. Covering plywood this will not crack and will provide a very nice surface for compatible paint. By the time you have bent a piece of plywood enough to crack a fiberglass epoxy covering you will have cracked the plywood.

I have used several types of general purpose expoy: WEST, System 3, Maz, and have bought but not use Raka. The original WEST epoxi was too brittle and too touchy to work with compared to System 3. Maz is specially formulated to match wood's average characteristics (pine, fir, ash), but far more expensive. Raka is, I expect, equivalent to System 3 but less expensive. I bought ten gallons as a hedge against inflation when oil was skyrocketing. Figured eventually I would have something I would want to build.

Lessons I have learned with epoxi: great as substrate for varnish. needs varnish (or opaque paint) to protect if from sun. I used very light weight fiberglass cloth over the cherry transom of ROGUE (1/2 X 6" planks) and then ten layers of varnish lightly sanded and renewed with two coats of varnish each year. At three feet you can just make out the weave of the fiberglass in some places on the transom. By far the easiest to maintain varnish job. No dark epoxy covered hull colours in tropical sun. Epoxy gets fluid in heat. Walnut is unusually stable regarding moisture changes, but 3/8" walnut trim lifted off my hull when I let the finish degrade. (During the building process I thought there was enough excess epoxy spread around to protect it.) So don't try to exoxy together planks even though I have seen professional shops do it. I would not trust my life to such a joint and if bolted or screwed together I would not trust wood not to rot that was glued together this way (after moisture working had cracked the glue joint and provided a path for water and no way to dry out). Use Weldwood or Resorsonol (sp?) glue for gluing planks. Even buried under ten oz epoxy fiberglass I had my rudder (1 1/4 x 2" walnut planks edge glued and screwed) planks work enough with changing moisture content to crack the fiberglass. I'm hoping the small crack can be repaired by grinding a round hole down to bare wood and then fairing in a fiberglass patch that extends over the existing fiberglass. If I experience more problems of this ilk I will have to rebuild the rudder using plywood covered with epoxy fiberglass.

Hope this helps.

Eric


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Christopher C. Wetherill" <wetherillc@...> wrote:
>
> This raises the question of crazing. When you epoxy a flat piece of
> plywood and then flex it, you load the convex surface in tension and the
> concave surface in compression. What keeps them from cracking?
>
> V/R
> Chris
>
> eric14850 wrote:
> > If I were building in lapstrake I would epoxi a layer of fiberglass to both sides of the plywood sheets before cutting the strakes to protect the plywood and provide a good surface for paint. It would allow using fir plywood which needs something done to the surface if paint is to look good on it.
> >
> >
>

Thank you Sir!

 

From:bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf OfHarry James
Sent:Wednesday, October 07, 2009 3:51 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Re: 25' Chebacco?

 

 

The 25 is on page 230 of BWOM.

HJ

Kimbro, Ray (N-SAIC) wrote:

OK – I can’t seem to find any study plans or line drawings for this – just a nebulous mention of one having been built.  If PCB did indeed do a 25’ Chebacco design, that’s indeed where I’d prefer to start.  I just haven’t found such a thing.

 

,___

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Mike John <mikeduckboatman@...> wrote:
>
> Chebacco 20 plans are in Payson's new book

I haven't got Payson's book. Which plans has he got for the Chebacco in it, the same ones as are in BWAOM? Sheet ply only I presume. Which cabin? Are they the same plans Dynamite sells (or a reduced copy of same)?

Andrew
Epoxy is flexible enough that its not an issue. When we built 3 Gulls a few years ago, on one of them we pre fiberglassed and flow coated the exterior before cutting out the sides. Worked great, see the red gull in the album

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/photos/album/1950624265/pic/list

HJ

Christopher C. Wetherill wrote:
This raises the question of crazing.  When you epoxy a flat piece of 
plywood and then flex it, you load the convex surface in tension and the 
concave surface in compression.  What keeps them from cracking?

V/R
Chris

eric14850 wrote:
If I were building in lapstrake I would epoxi a layer of fiberglass to both sides of the plywood sheets before cutting the strakes to protect the plywood and provide a good surface for paint. It would allow using fir plywood which needs something done to the surface if paint is to look good on it.
------------------------------------

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This raises the question of crazing. When you epoxy a flat piece of
plywood and then flex it, you load the convex surface in tension and the
concave surface in compression. What keeps them from cracking?

V/R
Chris

eric14850 wrote:
> If I were building in lapstrake I would epoxi a layer of fiberglass to both sides of the plywood sheets before cutting the strakes to protect the plywood and provide a good surface for paint. It would allow using fir plywood which needs something done to the surface if paint is to look good on it.
>
>
Thanks all for reminding me that Phil had designed a 25' version. I am gratified to learn that it is only two inches wider than the 20' version. That is in line with my gut instincts about the matter. In lapstrake this would be another very pretty boat. I reiterate that I do not think a novice builder would find enough difference in building time between the shorter and longer versions to matter, and there wouldn't be a lot of difference in material cost either. If I were building in lapstrake I would epoxi a layer of fiberglass to both sides of the plywood sheets before cutting the strakes to protect the plywood and provide a good surface for paint. It would allow using fir plywood which needs something done to the surface if paint is to look good on it.

I don't care for the lines of the sheet plywood Chebacco boats in comparison to the lapstrake versions. Comparing the plywood versions of the Chebacco boat to the 23' the Sea Bird '86 lines I like the Sea Birds lines better. See pg 252. Sea Bird is a somewhat similar boat with more of a nod to seaworthiness and living aboard. Different purpose than Chebacco 25. I see no reason the lug sail couldn't become a balanced lug of the same size and shape if that was preferred.

Do buy Boats with an Open Mind. It's in print or at least easily available. Bolger's books are a wealth of information and interesting lines of boats to dream about and to reach an understanding about boat designs from studying. I once had most of his books virtually memorised from numerous re-readings. Now that I've opened the pages again I see no reason not to continue reading.

Eric

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
> The 25 is on page 230 of BWOM.
>
> HJ
>
> Kimbro, Ray (N-SAIC) wrote:
> >
> >
> > OK -- I can't seem to find any study plans or line drawings for this
> > -- just a nebulous mention of one having been built. If PCB did
> > indeed do a 25' Chebacco design, that's indeed where I'd prefer to
> > start. I just haven't found such a thing.
> >
> >
> >
> > ,___
>
Chebacco 20 plans are in Payson's new book and there is a drawing of the 25' in Boats With an Open Mind.

Mike

On Thu, Oct 8, 2009 at 9:32 AM, prairiedog2332<arvent@...>wrote:

Dynamite Payson sells both sail options - sprit or gaff. Perhaps both
options are offered with his 20' Chebacco plans?

http://www.instantboats.com/pricetxt.html#sails

Nels

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" <pvanderwaart@...> wrote:
>
> > The 25-footer could carry a lot more sail, but we kept the
> > rig of the
> > 20-footer practically unchanged because it had proved
> > so handy to rig and un-rig.
>
> In fact, it's not the rig. It's neither the same shape or the same
sail area. I suspect the text was written, and the rig changed later.
PCB's books are well edited and there aren't many errors, but there are
a few.
>
> (Just sitting here editing my own message, it occurs that perhaps he
didn't mean it to be taken so literally, only that it was a similar
cat-yawl.)
>




--
Mike

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/indexes.htm
Dynamite Payson sells both sail options - sprit or gaff. Perhaps both
options are offered with his 20' Chebacco plans?

http://www.instantboats.com/pricetxt.html#sails

Nels

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter" <pvanderwaart@...> wrote:
>
> > The 25-footer could carry a lot more sail, but we kept the
> > rig of the
> > 20-footer practically unchanged because it had proved
> > so handy to rig and un-rig.
>
> In fact, it's not the rig. It's neither the same shape or the same
sail area. I suspect the text was written, and the rig changed later.
PCB's books are well edited and there aren't many errors, but there are
a few.
>
> (Just sitting here editing my own message, it occurs that perhaps he
didn't mean it to be taken so literally, only that it was a similar
cat-yawl.)
>
The 25 is on page 230 of BWOM.

HJ

Kimbro, Ray (N-SAIC) wrote:

OK – I can’t seem to find any study plans or line drawings for this – just a nebulous mention of one having been built.  If PCB did indeed do a 25’ Chebacco design, that’s indeed where I’d prefer to start.  I just haven’t found such a thing.

 

,___
> The 25-footer could carry a lot more sail, but we kept the
> rig of the
> 20-footer practically unchanged because it had proved
> so handy to rig and un-rig.

In fact, it's not the rig. It's neither the same shape or the same sail area. I suspect the text was written, and the rig changed later. PCB's books are well edited and there aren't many errors, but there are a few.

(Just sitting here editing my own message, it occurs that perhaps he didn't mean it to be taken so literally, only that it was a similar cat-yawl.)
I agree, actually; there are an enormous number of factors that go into how popular a design is.

-p

On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 6:16 AM, Michael Kline<kura1in2@...>wrote:


An interesting observation.  However, with all due respect to Mr. Hawking and Mr. Nichols, I would contend that in boating and especially in design, the interest level goes up with the number of sketches or diagrams.  Bolger's series of design books for instance.
Michael Kline
Chicago, Illinois



I have scans of the lines, sail plan, offsets, and and construction sketches of the 25' version, acquired back in December of 2003 when I was deciding on the 20' version.  These came from "Boats with an Open Mind," pp 229 ff.  This is the section titled "BED AND BREAKFAST SAIL."

The text reads:
The 25-footer is a stretch of the clinker 20, to make a roomier cuddy. The raised deck increased useful space still more, besides adding buoyancy in a knockdown. Everything else is the same. The extra length adds several hundred pounds to the half-ton weight of the 20-footer.  That, plus the increased wetted surface, means that with the same rig, the long boat is not as fast in light wind. However, the long length lets her go faster in a good breeze, or under power. She planes cleanly with a 15-hp motor at low cruising rpm.

The 25-footer could carry a lot more sail, but we kept the rig of the 20-footer practically unchanged because it had proved so handy to rig and un-rig. It can be set up in a few minutes, afloat or on the ramp. ...

 ... something wrong with the scan here, duplicated paragraphs and jumps.  I'd really recommend you get a copy of the book, and buy the plans from Suzanne.  - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349

I would suggest you exchange faxes with Suzanne to find out the form of Payee on your check and current price.  No web site.  No e-mails.  Include your phone number.  When I had a question on one of the Chebacco drawings, Phil called me.  When I had a comment on Suzanne's write-up of the fishing industry problems in MAIB, I got an hour phone call from her.  Those were better days.

In view of copyright laws, I don't feel comfortable publishing these, but will send them as e-mail attachments to an individual.

Roger
http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm/ 



On Oct 7, 2009, at 8:59 AM, Kimbro, Ray (N-SAIC) wrote:

 

OK – I can’t seem to find any study plans or line drawings for this – just a nebulous mention of one having been built.  If PCB did indeed do a 25’ Chebacco design, that’s indeed where I’d prefer to start.  I just haven’t found such a thing.

 

From:bolger@yahoogroups. com [mailto:bolger@ yahoogroups. com]On Behalf OfJohn Bell
Sent:Tuesday, October 06, 2009 8:28 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups. com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Re: 25' Chebacco?

 

 

I think you missed where Bolger designed a 25' Chebacco....

It's a nice looking boat.

On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 6:55 PM, eric14850 <eric14850@yahoo. com> wrote:

 

Yes, stability increases with length as well as with width, but to a much lesser degree.

I strongly recommend not simply expanding all the measurements of the Chebacco to reach 25' That could produce an unseaworthy monstosity. However, simply lengthening Chebacco might produce a reasonable boat. The building time might not be much different because curves would be lengthened making building easier. (My own boat would have been quicker to build had I stretched it the four feet I considered stretching it. It would be faster, more stable, better looking, have better storage and it would be easier to add auxiliary power.) Incorporating more complicated interior elements is another story. It is not just length and weight that increase building time. Complicated elements in the interior can cost more time by far than the hull and deck.

Frankly, I like the Chebacco just the way it is. Lengthening it might produce a faster more capable boat but that is by no means certain. Change things and the art of it could easily be lost, and I am not speaking simply of the beauty of the boat, though with Chebacco that is a very important consideration. Chebacco is an uncommonly beautiful boat. I am afraid I must vote with the person or persons who suggested looking into other designs of a similar style in the 25' range. At least consult with someone with more design experience than we seem to possess. Model building might help as well.

Eric

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups. com, Pierce Nichols <rocketgeek@. ..> wrote:


>
> On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 2:53 AM, Andrew <a.c.l.yen@.. .> wrote:
>
> >
> > If you google "Simon Jones Mudlark" you will find a few references to a 25'
> > chebacco made in South Australia about 7 years ago. It appears it was
> > completed as there is a recent reference too. I would love to see a picture
> > of Mudlark though.
> >
> > The design is Bolger's and is shown in Boats With an Open Mind. It has a
> > 9' raised deck style cuddy cabin and 7' cockpit.
> >
> > I can't see why, if it is virtually the same beam as the 20', almost
> > identical underwater section as the 20' and similar rig height (in BWAOM
> > Bolger suggested using the same rig as the 20')why it shouldn't have similar
> > stability as the 20'. It is heavier at 2200 lb and has higher freeboard.
> >
>
> It should have more stability, since there's a positive-going length term in
> the stability equation. Don't remember what the exponent is off the top,
> tho. It should also be able to recover from a larger angle of heel due to
> its higher free-board.
>
>
> >
> > I am attracted to the design and am not sure why others haven't been built.
> > Maybe it is just too much work to lapstrake such a large hull.
> >
>
> 25' is a large boat to built alone. That probably explains it.
>
> -p
>

 



An interesting observation.  However, with all due respect to Mr. Hawking and Mr. Nichols, I would contend that in boating and especially in design, the interest level goes up with the number of sketches or diagrams.  Bolger's series of design books for instance.
 
Michael Kline
Chicago, Illinois

Thanks – I’m going to have to steal that from my Dad’s bookshelf and start makin’ some new pencil marks!

 

From:bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf OfJohn Bell
Sent:Wednesday, October 07, 2009 9:14 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Re: 25' Chebacco?

 

 

It's in the Chebacco chapter in "Boats With An Open Mind." It definitely exists.

On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 8:59 AM, Kimbro, Ray (N-SAIC) <ray.kimbro@...> wrote:

 

OK – I can’t seem to find any study plans or line drawings for this – just a nebulous mention of one having been built.  If PCB did indeed do a 25’ Chebacco design, that’s indeed where I’d prefer to start.  I just haven’t found such a thing.

 

From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf OfJohn Bell
Sent:Tuesday, October 06, 2009 8:28 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Re: 25' Chebacco?

 

 

I think you missed where Bolger designed a 25' Chebacco....

It's a nice looking boat.

On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 6:55 PM, eric14850 <eric14850@...> wrote:

 

Yes, stability increases with length as well as with width, but to a much lesser degree.

I strongly recommend not simply expanding all the measurements of the Chebacco to reach 25' That could produce an unseaworthy monstosity. However, simply lengthening Chebacco might produce a reasonable boat. The building time might not be much different because curves would be lengthened making building easier. (My own boat would have been quicker to build had I stretched it the four feet I considered stretching it. It would be faster, more stable, better looking, have better storage and it would be easier to add auxiliary power.) Incorporating more complicated interior elements is another story. It is not just length and weight that increase building time. Complicated elements in the interior can cost more time by far than the hull and deck.

Frankly, I like the Chebacco just the way it is. Lengthening it might produce a faster more capable boat but that is by no means certain. Change things and the art of it could easily be lost, and I am not speaking simply of the beauty of the boat, though with Chebacco that is a very important consideration. Chebacco is an uncommonly beautiful boat. I am afraid I must vote with the person or persons who suggested looking into other designs of a similar style in the 25' range. At least consult with someone with more design experience than we seem to possess. Model building might help as well.

Eric

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Pierce Nichols <rocketgeek@...> wrote:


>
> On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 2:53 AM, Andrew <a.c.l.yen@...> wrote:
>
> >
> > If you google "Simon Jones Mudlark" you will find a few
references to a 25'
> > chebacco made in South Australia about 7 years ago. It appears it was
> > completed as there is a recent reference too. I would love to see a
picture
> > of Mudlark though.
> >
> > The design is Bolger's and is shown in Boats With an Open Mind. It
has a
> > 9' raised deck style cuddy cabin and 7' cockpit.
> >
> > I can't see why, if it is virtually the same beam as the 20', almost
> > identical underwater section as the 20' and similar rig height (in
BWAOM
> > Bolger suggested using the same rig as the 20')why it shouldn't have
similar
> > stability as the 20'. It is heavier at 2200 lb and has higher
freeboard.
> >
>
> It should have more stability, since there's a positive-going length term
in
> the stability equation. Don't remember what the exponent is off the top,
> tho. It should also be able to recover from a larger angle of heel due to
> its higher free-board.
>
>
> >
> > I am attracted to the design and am not sure why others haven't been
built.
> > Maybe it is just too much work to lapstrake such a large hull.
> >
>
> 25' is a large boat to built alone. That probably explains it.
>
> -p
>

 

 

It's in the Chebacco chapter in "Boats With An Open Mind." It definitely exists.

On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 8:59 AM, Kimbro, Ray (N-SAIC)<ray.kimbro@...>wrote:

OK – I can’t seem to find any study plans or line drawings for this – just a nebulous mention of one having been built.  If PCB did indeed do a 25’ Chebacco design, that’s indeed where I’d prefer to start.  I just haven’t found such a thing.

From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf OfJohn Bell
Sent:Tuesday, October 06, 2009 8:28 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Re: 25' Chebacco?

I think you missed where Bolger designed a 25' Chebacco....

It's a nice looking boat.

On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 6:55 PM, eric14850 <eric14850@...> wrote:

Yes, stability increases with length as well as with width, but to a much lesser degree.

I strongly recommend not simply expanding all the measurements of the Chebacco to reach 25' That could produce an unseaworthy monstosity. However, simply lengthening Chebacco might produce a reasonable boat. The building time might not be much different because curves would be lengthened making building easier. (My own boat would have been quicker to build had I stretched it the four feet I considered stretching it. It would be faster, more stable, better looking, have better storage and it would be easier to add auxiliary power.) Incorporating more complicated interior elements is another story. It is not just length and weight that increase building time. Complicated elements in the interior can cost more time by far than the hull and deck.

Frankly, I like the Chebacco just the way it is. Lengthening it might produce a faster more capable boat but that is by no means certain. Change things and the art of it could easily be lost, and I am not speaking simply of the beauty of the boat, though with Chebacco that is a very important consideration. Chebacco is an uncommonly beautiful boat. I am afraid I must vote with the person or persons who suggested looking into other designs of a similar style in the 25' range. At least consult with someone with more design experience than we seem to possess. Model building might help as well.

Eric

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Pierce Nichols <rocketgeek@...> wrote:


>
> On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 2:53 AM, Andrew <a.c.l.yen@...> wrote:
>
> >
> > If you google "Simon Jones Mudlark" you will find a few references to a 25'
> > chebacco made in South Australia about 7 years ago. It appears it was
> > completed as there is a recent reference too. I would love to see a picture
> > of Mudlark though.
> >
> > The design is Bolger's and is shown in Boats With an Open Mind. It has a
> > 9' raised deck style cuddy cabin and 7' cockpit.
> >
> > I can't see why, if it is virtually the same beam as the 20', almost
> > identical underwater section as the 20' and similar rig height (in BWAOM
> > Bolger suggested using the same rig as the 20')why it shouldn't have similar
> > stability as the 20'. It is heavier at 2200 lb and has higher freeboard.
> >
>
> It should have more stability, since there's a positive-going length term in
> the stability equation. Don't remember what the exponent is off the top,
> tho. It should also be able to recover from a larger angle of heel due to
> its higher free-board.
>
>
> >
> > I am attracted to the design and am not sure why others haven't been built.
> > Maybe it is just too much work to lapstrake such a large hull.
> >
>
> 25' is a large boat to built alone. That probably explains it.
>
> -p
>


For some time I have been playing with the drawings in BWAOM and have some incomplete CAD sketches of the Chebacco 20 (Lapstrake version) and 25 derived from the tables of offsets.

I was trying to compare their sizes and shapes.

I have posted some of my sketches here:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/Chebacco%2025'/

(Please excuse the fact that they are just sketches and not all of the lines meet up etc.)

You can immediately see how similar the hull section shapes are. Phil Bolger has stretched the distance between stations on the 25 and has added freeboard.

Andrew



--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Kimbro, Ray (N-SAIC)" <ray.kimbro@...> wrote:
>
>
> Folks -
>
> I read a brief mention of a 25' Chebacco on the Chebacco News site. If y'all would entertain some questions, I've got a few.
>
>
> 1) Did Mr. Bolger design this, or did someone extrapolate #s to extend the 20' plans?
>
> 2) Has one of these actually launched?
>
> 3) If so, how does it sail?
>
> 4) Any pics?
>
> I've been very fond of the Chebacco design since I first saw it in the early 90s - but, the 20' version is just a bit small for my family. I think that the 25' would make a great trailerable daysailer for the family, long-weekend cruiser for myself, and mebbe one other kid (I'm a horrible packrat, and tend to overpack for everything).
>
> So - if anyone knows of a 25' Chebacco, I'd be very interested in chatting w/the builder and/or owner.
>
> Thanks!
>

OK – I can’t seem to find any study plans or line drawings for this – just a nebulous mention of one having been built.  If PCB did indeed do a 25’ Chebacco design, that’s indeed where I’d prefer to start.  I just haven’t found such a thing.

 

From:bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf OfJohn Bell
Sent:Tuesday, October 06, 2009 8:28 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Re: 25' Chebacco?

 

 

I think you missed where Bolger designed a 25' Chebacco....

It's a nice looking boat.

On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 6:55 PM, eric14850 <eric14850@...> wrote:

 

Yes, stability increases with length as well as with width, but to a much lesser degree.

I strongly recommend not simply expanding all the measurements of the Chebacco to reach 25' That could produce an unseaworthy monstosity. However, simply lengthening Chebacco might produce a reasonable boat. The building time might not be much different because curves would be lengthened making building easier. (My own boat would have been quicker to build had I stretched it the four feet I considered stretching it. It would be faster, more stable, better looking, have better storage and it would be easier to add auxiliary power.) Incorporating more complicated interior elements is another story. It is not just length and weight that increase building time. Complicated elements in the interior can cost more time by far than the hull and deck.

Frankly, I like the Chebacco just the way it is. Lengthening it might produce a faster more capable boat but that is by no means certain. Change things and the art of it could easily be lost, and I am not speaking simply of the beauty of the boat, though with Chebacco that is a very important consideration. Chebacco is an uncommonly beautiful boat. I am afraid I must vote with the person or persons who suggested looking into other designs of a similar style in the 25' range. At least consult with someone with more design experience than we seem to possess. Model building might help as well.

Eric

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Pierce Nichols <rocketgeek@...> wrote:


>
> On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 2:53 AM, Andrew <a.c.l.yen@...> wrote:
>
> >
> > If you google "Simon Jones Mudlark" you will find a few
references to a 25'
> > chebacco made in South Australia about 7 years ago. It appears it was
> > completed as there is a recent reference too. I would love to see a
picture
> > of Mudlark though.
> >
> > The design is Bolger's and is shown in Boats With an Open Mind. It has
a
> > 9' raised deck style cuddy cabin and 7' cockpit.
> >
> > I can't see why, if it is virtually the same beam as the 20', almost
> > identical underwater section as the 20' and similar rig height (in
BWAOM
> > Bolger suggested using the same rig as the 20')why it shouldn't have
similar
> > stability as the 20'. It is heavier at 2200 lb and has higher
freeboard.
> >
>
> It should have more stability, since there's a positive-going length term
in
> the stability equation. Don't remember what the exponent is off the top,
> tho. It should also be able to recover from a larger angle of heel due to
> its higher free-board.
>
>
> >
> > I am attracted to the design and am not sure why others haven't been
built.
> > Maybe it is just too much work to lapstrake such a large hull.
> >
>
> 25' is a large boat to built alone. That probably explains it.
>
> -p
>

 

I think you missed where Bolger designed a 25' Chebacco....

It's a nice looking boat.

On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 6:55 PM, eric14850<eric14850@...>wrote:

Yes, stability increases with length as well as with width, but to a much lesser degree.

I strongly recommend not simply expanding all the measurements of the Chebacco to reach 25' That could produce an unseaworthy monstosity. However, simply lengthening Chebacco might produce a reasonable boat. The building time might not be much different because curves would be lengthened making building easier. (My own boat would have been quicker to build had I stretched it the four feet I considered stretching it. It would be faster, more stable, better looking, have better storage and it would be easier to add auxiliary power.) Incorporating more complicated interior elements is another story. It is not just length and weight that increase building time. Complicated elements in the interior can cost more time by far than the hull and deck.

Frankly, I like the Chebacco just the way it is. Lengthening it might produce a faster more capable boat but that is by no means certain. Change things and the art of it could easily be lost, and I am not speaking simply of the beauty of the boat, though with Chebacco that is a very important consideration. Chebacco is an uncommonly beautiful boat. I am afraid I must vote with the person or persons who suggested looking into other designs of a similar style in the 25' range. At least consult with someone with more design experience than we seem to possess. Model building might help as well.

Eric

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Pierce Nichols <rocketgeek@...> wrote:


>
> On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 2:53 AM, Andrew <a.c.l.yen@...> wrote:
>
> >
> > If you google "Simon Jones Mudlark" you will find a few references to a 25'
> > chebacco made in South Australia about 7 years ago. It appears it was
> > completed as there is a recent reference too. I would love to see a picture
> > of Mudlark though.
> >
> > The design is Bolger's and is shown in Boats With an Open Mind. It has a
> > 9' raised deck style cuddy cabin and 7' cockpit.
> >
> > I can't see why, if it is virtually the same beam as the 20', almost
> > identical underwater section as the 20' and similar rig height (in BWAOM
> > Bolger suggested using the same rig as the 20')why it shouldn't have similar
> > stability as the 20'. It is heavier at 2200 lb and has higher freeboard.
> >
>
> It should have more stability, since there's a positive-going length term in
> the stability equation. Don't remember what the exponent is off the top,
> tho. It should also be able to recover from a larger angle of heel due to
> its higher free-board.
>
>
> >
> > I am attracted to the design and am not sure why others haven't been built.
> > Maybe it is just too much work to lapstrake such a large hull.
> >
>
> 25' is a large boat to built alone. That probably explains it.
>
> -p
>


Yes, stability increases with length as well as with width, but to a much lesser degree.

I strongly recommend not simply expanding all the measurements of the Chebacco to reach 25' That could produce an unseaworthy monstosity. However, simply lengthening Chebacco might produce a reasonable boat. The building time might not be much different because curves would be lengthened making building easier. (My own boat would have been quicker to build had I stretched it the four feet I considered stretching it. It would be faster, more stable, better looking, have better storage and it would be easier to add auxiliary power.) Incorporating more complicated interior elements is another story. It is not just length and weight that increase building time. Complicated elements in the interior can cost more time by far than the hull and deck.

Frankly, I like the Chebacco just the way it is. Lengthening it might produce a faster more capable boat but that is by no means certain. Change things and the art of it could easily be lost, and I am not speaking simply of the beauty of the boat, though with Chebacco that is a very important consideration. Chebacco is an uncommonly beautiful boat. I am afraid I must vote with the person or persons who suggested looking into other designs of a similar style in the 25' range. At least consult with someone with more design experience than we seem to possess. Model building might help as well.

Eric



--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Pierce Nichols <rocketgeek@...> wrote:
>
> On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 2:53 AM, Andrew <a.c.l.yen@...> wrote:
>
> >
> > If you google "Simon Jones Mudlark" you will find a few references to a 25'
> > chebacco made in South Australia about 7 years ago. It appears it was
> > completed as there is a recent reference too. I would love to see a picture
> > of Mudlark though.
> >
> > The design is Bolger's and is shown in Boats With an Open Mind. It has a
> > 9' raised deck style cuddy cabin and 7' cockpit.
> >
> > I can't see why, if it is virtually the same beam as the 20', almost
> > identical underwater section as the 20' and similar rig height (in BWAOM
> > Bolger suggested using the same rig as the 20')why it shouldn't have similar
> > stability as the 20'. It is heavier at 2200 lb and has higher freeboard.
> >
>
> It should have more stability, since there's a positive-going length term in
> the stability equation. Don't remember what the exponent is off the top,
> tho. It should also be able to recover from a larger angle of heel due to
> its higher free-board.
>
>
> >
> > I am attracted to the design and am not sure why others haven't been built.
> > Maybe it is just too much work to lapstrake such a large hull.
> >
>
> 25' is a large boat to built alone. That probably explains it.
>
> -p
>
One of my favorite designs too.

I recall emailing Simon many years ago. He was planning to change it to
leeboards and leave off the ballast keel. IIRC - Mr. Bolger would have
nothing to do with this - saying it would no longer be his design. I
think I mentioned to Simon it was not a good idea but never heard back
from him.

Nels

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <a.c.l.yen@...> wrote:
>
>
> If you google "Simon Jones Mudlark" you will find a few references to
a 25' chebacco made in South Australia about 7 years ago. It appears it
was completed as there is a recent reference too. I would love to see a
picture of Mudlark though.
>
> The design is Bolger's and is shown in Boats With an Open Mind. It
has a 9' raised deck style cuddy cabin and 7' cockpit.
>
> I can't see why, if it is virtually the same beam as the 20', almost
identical underwater section as the 20' and similar rig height (in BWAOM
Bolger suggested using the same rig as the 20')why it shouldn't have
similar stability as the 20'. It is heavier at 2200 lb and has higher
freeboard.
>
> I am attracted to the design and am not sure why others haven't been
built. Maybe it is just too much work to lapstrake such a large hull.
>
> Andrew
>
On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 2:53 AM, Andrew<a.c.l.yen@...>wrote:

If you google "Simon Jones Mudlark" you will find a few references to a 25' chebacco made in South Australia about 7 years ago.  It appears it was completed as there is a recent reference too.  I would love to see a picture of Mudlark though.

The design is Bolger's and is shown in Boats With an Open Mind.  It has a 9' raised deck style cuddy cabin and 7' cockpit.

I can't see why, if it is virtually the same beam as the 20', almost identical underwater section as the 20' and similar rig height (in BWAOM Bolger suggested using the same rig as the 20')why it shouldn't have similar stability as the 20'.  It is heavier at 2200 lb and has higher freeboard.

It should have more stability, since there's a positive-going length term in the stability equation. Don't remember what the exponent is off the top, tho. It should also be able to recover from a larger angle of heel due to its higher free-board.

I am attracted to the design and am not sure why others haven't been built.  Maybe it is just too much work to lapstrake such a large hull.

25' is a large boat to built alone. That probably explains it.

-p
> Maybe it is just too much work to lapstrake such a large hull.

I have suggested that there is law of boatbuilding that says for every foot of length over 14', the number of boats built drops by some percentage. (This is based on Stephen Hawking's principle that every diagram in a math/science book reduces readership by 10%.)
If you google "Simon Jones Mudlark" you will find a few references to a 25' chebacco made in South Australia about 7 years ago. It appears it was completed as there is a recent reference too. I would love to see a picture of Mudlark though.

The design is Bolger's and is shown in Boats With an Open Mind. It has a 9' raised deck style cuddy cabin and 7' cockpit.

I can't see why, if it is virtually the same beam as the 20', almost identical underwater section as the 20' and similar rig height (in BWAOM Bolger suggested using the same rig as the 20')why it shouldn't have similar stability as the 20'. It is heavier at 2200 lb and has higher freeboard.

I am attracted to the design and am not sure why others haven't been built. Maybe it is just too much work to lapstrake such a large hull.

Andrew
i have a fireball sail boat that has two in the floor of the cockpit.
they work pretty well as long you are moving. they have a baffle but they still leak when you arent moving. speaking of which i dont sail as there isnt a decent lake here. would anybody be interested in buying it?

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "adventures_in_astrophotography" <jon@...> wrote:
>
> All,
>
> > There are many options to prevent water backup from the scuppers.
> ...snip...
>
> Speaking of cockpit drains and scuppers, has anybody used these on the floor of a cockpit or bottom of a hull? How well do they work?
>
>http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Scuppers_Drains-SEACHOICE_SELF_BAILING_SCUPPERS.html
>
> Jon
>
All,

> There are many options to prevent water backup from the scuppers.
...snip...

Speaking of cockpit drains and scuppers, has anybody used these on the floor of a cockpit or bottom of a hull? How well do they work?

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Scuppers_Drains-SEACHOICE_SELF_BAILING_SCUPPERS.html

Jon
There are many options to prevent water backup from the scuppers.

In the Storm Petrel plans Phil recommends, "Scupper clam shells as shown
or stock metal types opening aft." for the free flooding bow well.

If you go with a self-draining cockpit on the Long Micro, simple rubber
flaps installed on the outside of the cockpit bulkhead might prevent
water backing up from the stern well.

Or something like this if installed on a vertical surface. I would have
them connected to pvc piping, sealed tight to prevent rot.

<http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Scuppers_Drains-ATTWOOD_SCUPPER_V\
ALVE.html>

Other options:

<http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/HARDWARE-Scuppers_Drains.html>

Nels

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
> Cocpit floors on small boats are very close to the water line and
often
> have back up with a heavy load or saile hard. My Pearson Triton has
> water about 2" down. San Juan 24's often put a plug in their cockpit
> drains when sailing hard.
>
> HJ
>
> Andrew wrote:
> > I was wondering how high the floor of a self draining cockpit needs
to be. I was browsing some Chebacco designs and noticed that the
Chebacco RD is designed with a self draining cockpit.
> >
> >http://www.myasylum.com/sbf/messages/1785.html
> >
> >http://www.chebacco.com/articles/016/7/article_files/image018.jpg
> >
> > In this second link you can see the drain exiting over the heel of
the rudder.
> >
> > On closer inspection the floor of the cockpit seems to be only about
3" above the WL. Is this enough to stop your feet getting wet? I have
read elsewhere about a minimum of 9".
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Andrew
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging
dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Cocpit floors on small boats are very close to the water line and often
have back up with a heavy load or saile hard. My Pearson Triton has
water about 2" down. San Juan 24's often put a plug in their cockpit
drains when sailing hard.

HJ

Andrew wrote:
> I was wondering how high the floor of a self draining cockpit needs to be. I was browsing some Chebacco designs and noticed that the Chebacco RD is designed with a self draining cockpit.
>
>http://www.myasylum.com/sbf/messages/1785.html
>
>http://www.chebacco.com/articles/016/7/article_files/image018.jpg
>
> In this second link you can see the drain exiting over the heel of the rudder.
>
> On closer inspection the floor of the cockpit seems to be only about 3" above the WL. Is this enough to stop your feet getting wet? I have read elsewhere about a minimum of 9".
>
> Regards,
>
> Andrew
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
As noted, there have been no completed boats that have garnered any publicity. I can think of a couple reasons.

The design is for glued-lap construction, rather than sheet ply. This makes for many more individual parts, though the the parts are smaller and more easily handled. I guess Brad Story found the building time for the 20-footer lap construction to be not much more than the sheet ply.

It's a more complicated boat than the 20-footer. As best I remember, the keel/skeg/centerboard construction is more complex, and the boat is too big to ignore the interior, so there is extra work there.

The extra size means you need a bigger workshop - even bigger than an oversized, American garage, I think.

I don't know about anyone else, but I think the big boat is over the limit for an unballasted boat. It's too big for crew weight to balance the rig. I'd welcome other opinions.

It's getting to a size and investment that people are reluctant to consider for something out of the ordinary since they are looking to resale value.

There are alternate Bolger designs. Red Zinger, for example.
On the plans for my boat, the scuppers are tubed to the opposite side of the boat. So the port side scupper's drain tube exits the hull on the starboard side, which should eliminate both of these problems if you get the through hull in the correct location.

Chris Brunette



--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "BrianA" <bawrytr@...> wrote:
>
> In principle the hole of a self-draining cockpit needs to be above the waterline. The higher and bigger the hole, the faster it drains. On my sailboat, there were holes in each aft corner of the cockpit and these were normally about 6" above the water line, but when heeled over good, one would dip below and then you would have a few inches of water sloshing around in the lee corner. One hole in the middle would have prevented most the water flowing in through the tubes when heeled over, but any water that did get in would fill up to the drain before starting to flow out.
>
> On a boat like Chewbacco you probably need to figure that your feet are going to get wet, or reduce the width and depth of the cockpit.
>
> Cheers, Brian
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <a.c.l.yen@> wrote:
> >
> > I was wondering how high the floor of a self draining cockpit needs to be. I was browsing some Chebacco designs and noticed that the Chebacco RD is designed with a self draining cockpit.
> >
> >http://www.myasylum.com/sbf/messages/1785.html
> >
> >http://www.chebacco.com/articles/016/7/article_files/image018.jpg
> >
> > In this second link you can see the drain exiting over the heel of the rudder.
> >
> > On closer inspection the floor of the cockpit seems to be only about 3" above the WL. Is this enough to stop your feet getting wet? I have read elsewhere about a minimum of 9".
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Andrew
> >
>
I've only heard rumor of one person starting to build the the "Big Chewie" and that was seven or eight years ago. I fear this is like many builds, mine included, that were never seen through to completion.
The 25'er is a lot of boat and would be a nice family daysailer to be certain. I'm not fond of the solent lug / gunter rig Bolger shows on the drawings in "Boats with an Open Mind", but that's easily changed.
Although, if I were considering a new build in that size range, I'd have a hard time not building Nigel Irens' "Romilly" instead.
JB


On Mon, Oct 5, 2009 at 9:59 AM, Kimbro, Ray (N-SAIC)<ray.kimbro@...>wrote:

Folks –

I read a brief mention of a 25’ Chebacco on the Chebacco News site.  If y’all would entertain some questions, I’ve got a few.

1)Did Mr. Bolger design this, or did someone extrapolate #s to extend the 20’ plans?

2)Has one of these actually launched?

3)If so, how does it sail?

4)Any pics?

I’ve been very fond of the Chebacco design since I first saw it in the early 90s – but, the 20’ version is just a bit small for my family.  I think that the 25’ would make a great trailerable daysailer for the family, long-weekend cruiser for myself, and mebbe one other kid (I’m a horrible packrat, and tend to overpack for everything).

So – if anyone knows of a 25’ Chebacco, I’d be very interested in chatting w/the builder and/or owner.

Thanks!


 

Folks –

 

I read a brief mention of a 25’ Chebacco on the Chebacco News site.  If y’all would entertain some questions, I’ve got a few.

 

1)     Did Mr. Bolger design this, or did someone extrapolate #s to extend the 20’ plans?

2)     Has one of these actually launched?

3)     If so, how does it sail?

4)     Any pics?

 

I’ve been very fond of the Chebacco design since I first saw it in the early 90s – but, the 20’ version is just a bit small for my family.  I think that the 25’ would make a great trailerable daysailer for the family, long-weekend cruiser for myself, and mebbe one other kid (I’m a horrible packrat, and tend to overpack for everything).

 

So – if anyone knows of a 25’ Chebacco, I’d be very interested in chatting w/the builder and/or owner.

 

Thanks!

 

 

Andrew,
The sole of my self-bailing cockpit on my Long Micro sits about 3 or 4 inches above the waterline. The cockpit drains into the aft, free flooding well, and although I'll get water sloshing in the aft well, I've never had water backup into the cockpit.
Bill, now in Texas
Long Micro Pugnacious

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "BrianA" <bawrytr@...> wrote:
>
> In principle the hole of a self-draining cockpit needs to be above the waterline. The higher and bigger the hole, the faster it drains. On my sailboat, there were holes in each aft corner of the cockpit and these were normally about 6" above the water line, but when heeled over good, one would dip below and then you would have a few inches of water sloshing around in the lee corner. One hole in the middle would have prevented most the water flowing in through the tubes when heeled over, but any water that did get in would fill up to the drain before starting to flow out.
>
> On a boat like Chewbacco you probably need to figure that your feet are going to get wet, or reduce the width and depth of the cockpit.
>
> Cheers, Brian
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <a.c.l.yen@> wrote:
> >
> > I was wondering how high the floor of a self draining cockpit needs to be. I was browsing some Chebacco designs and noticed that the Chebacco RD is designed with a self draining cockpit.
> >
> >http://www.myasylum.com/sbf/messages/1785.html
> >http://www.chebacco.com/articles/016/7/article_files/image018.jpg
> >
> > In this second link you can see the drain exiting over the heel of the rudder.
> >
> > On closer inspection the floor of the cockpit seems to be only about 3" above the WL. Is this enough to stop your feet getting wet? I have read elsewhere about a minimum of 9".
> >
> > Regards,
> > Andrew
In principle the hole of a self-draining cockpit needs to be above the waterline. The higher and bigger the hole, the faster it drains. On my sailboat, there were holes in each aft corner of the cockpit and these were normally about 6" above the water line, but when heeled over good, one would dip below and then you would have a few inches of water sloshing around in the lee corner. One hole in the middle would have prevented most the water flowing in through the tubes when heeled over, but any water that did get in would fill up to the drain before starting to flow out.

On a boat like Chewbacco you probably need to figure that your feet are going to get wet, or reduce the width and depth of the cockpit.

Cheers, Brian


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew" <a.c.l.yen@...> wrote:
>
> I was wondering how high the floor of a self draining cockpit needs to be. I was browsing some Chebacco designs and noticed that the Chebacco RD is designed with a self draining cockpit.
>
>http://www.myasylum.com/sbf/messages/1785.html
>
>http://www.chebacco.com/articles/016/7/article_files/image018.jpg
>
> In this second link you can see the drain exiting over the heel of the rudder.
>
> On closer inspection the floor of the cockpit seems to be only about 3" above the WL. Is this enough to stop your feet getting wet? I have read elsewhere about a minimum of 9".
>
> Regards,
>
> Andrew
>
I was wondering how high the floor of a self draining cockpit needs to be. I was browsing some Chebacco designs and noticed that the Chebacco RD is designed with a self draining cockpit.

http://www.myasylum.com/sbf/messages/1785.html

http://www.chebacco.com/articles/016/7/article_files/image018.jpg

In this second link you can see the drain exiting over the heel of the rudder.

On closer inspection the floor of the cockpit seems to be only about 3" above the WL. Is this enough to stop your feet getting wet? I have read elsewhere about a minimum of 9".

Regards,

Andrew