Re: [bolger] Re: Micro Navigator Keel attachment...

One of the first steps in this project was measuring the door.  It should just fit although as work progresses and I build the keel I and cabin, I am concerned that that dimension could cause trouble.  May need to transfer to the garage for the cabin work.  I have a french door, both open to give me 6 ft plus a little and I can take the door frame off if that is a problem.  Lucky to have the walk out basement in the back of the house.  People are surprised to see the boat in there!

Gene T.

On 12 Jan, 2010, at 10:37 AM, Bob Cook wrote:


Will you be able to get it out of the basement?
 



From: Gene Tehansky <goldranger02- boats@yahoo. com>
To: bolger@yahoogroups. com
Sent: Tue, January 12, 2010 7:45:43 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Micro Navigator Keel attachment.. .

 

David,

Thanks for the comments.  Once I get the Keel done the next big thinking item will be the anti-slap pieces.  I guess they will have to be open inside and allowed to fill and drain.  The use of this addition requires a modification to the size of the keel to make it deeper at the front.  I plan to adjust the size of the keel as built with a slight increase in lead rather than add the wooden strip specified when upgrading a conventional Micro to the anti-slap configuration.  I'll say there is nothing Micro about the size of this boat in my basement!

Sincerely,
Gene T.


On 12 Jan, 2010, at 8:18 AM, dnjost wrote:


So, I guess the piece you are referring to is the keel batten (pretty sure that is the name, but included the plans with the sale of my Micro) that goes from stem to stern and bolts to the bottom of the boat. 

I would recommend using a polysulphide sealant such as lifecaulk under the washers and use bronze bolts, washers, and nuts. With marine ply and black locust I would put down money this part of the boat will outlast us. 

sounds like you are going first class. Good luck. 

David





Will you be able to get it out of the basement?
 



From:Gene Tehansky <goldranger02-boats@...>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent:Tue, January 12, 2010 7:45:43 AM
Subject:Re: [bolger] Re: Micro Navigator Keel attachment...

 

David,

Thanks for the comments.  Once I get the Keel done the next big thinking item will be the anti-slap pieces.  I guess they will have to be open inside and allowed to fill and drain.  The use of this addition requires a modification to the size of the keel to make it deeper at the front.  I plan to adjust the size of the keel as built with a slight increase in lead rather than add the wooden strip specified when upgrading a conventional Micro to the anti-slap configuration.  I'll say there is nothing Micro about the size of this boat in my basement!

Sincerely,
Gene T.


On 12 Jan, 2010, at 8:18 AM, dnjost wrote:


So, I guess the piece you are referring to is the keel batten (pretty sure that is the name, but included the plans with the sale of my Micro) that goes from stem to stern and bolts to the bottom of the boat. 

I would recommend using a polysulphide sealant such as lifecaulk under the washers and use bronze bolts, washers, and nuts. With marine ply and black locust I would put down money this part of the boat will outlast us. 

sounds like you are going first class. Good luck. 

David



FWIW, I had a leak with that through-bolted keel attachment. Some
interior fiberglass and epoxy over the bolt heads fixed it.


>
> So, I guess the piece you are referring to is the keel batten (pretty sure that is the name, but included the plans with the sale of my Micro) that goes from stem to stern and bolts to the bottom of the boat.
David,
Thanks for the comments.  Once I get the Keel done the next big thinking item will be the anti-slap pieces.  I guess they will have to be open inside and allowed to fill and drain.  The use of this addition requires a modification to the size of the keel to make it deeper at the front.  I plan to adjust the size of the keel as built with a slight increase in lead rather than add the wooden strip specified when upgrading a conventional Micro to the anti-slap configuration.  I'll say there is nothing Micro about the size of this boat in my basement!

Sincerely,
Gene T.


On 12 Jan, 2010, at 8:18 AM, dnjost wrote:


So, I guess the piece you are referring to is the keel batten (pretty sure that is the name, but included the plans with the sale of my Micro) that goes from stem to stern and bolts to the bottom of the boat. 

I would recommend using a polysulphide sealant such as lifecaulk under the washers and use bronze bolts, washers, and nuts. With marine ply and black locust I would put down money this part of the boat will outlast us. 

sounds like you are going first class. Good luck. 

David


Unfortunately she would likely have to stay clear of the group to protect herself. A sensible boundary to establish.

So we lose an important connection because of this evil.

Don

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Gene Tehansky <goldranger02-boats@...> wrote:
>
>..., I hope none of them were taken to heart by Susanne...
>
So, I guess the piece you are referring to is the keel batten (pretty sure that is the name, but included the plans with the sale of my Micro) that goes from stem to stern and bolts to the bottom of the boat.

I would recommend using a polysulphide sealant such as lifecaulk under the washers and use bronze bolts, washers, and nuts. With marine ply and black locust I would put down money this part of the boat will outlast us.

sounds like you are going first class. Good luck.

David
David,
My plan is to build as Bolger designed but with the open area filled in.  I am using black locust.  My only concern is where grain directions differ causing differing expansion rates due to swelling.  All wood will be horizontal or close to it except for the vertical adjacent to the rudder post.  I will be sheething with plywood and nailing the lead so possibly there will be little swelling and epoxy should work out fine.  All layers of the deadwood will be connected with Silicon bronze screws as well as adhesive.  I have silicon bronze bolts for attaching the first keel piece (name escapes me).  I don't want to do the Lenihan method with through bolts in the lead.

Sincerely,
Gene T.

On 11 Jan, 2010, at 8:36 PM, dnjost wrote:

Ah. I did not realize you were deviating from the plans here. Are you attaching the lead with bolts, or encapsulating in plywood? are you staying with the wooden batten as Bolger describes. Perhaps that is where I was confused. 
I built to plan. Peter Lenihan built his with deadwood (first class job), he might be a better resource here. Although properly bedded fastenings should be fine. if you have a barrier between the head of the fastener and the nut the water will not penetrate easily. 

David

--- In bolger@yahoogroups. com, Gene Tehansky <goldranger02- boats@... > wrote:
>
> David,
> Do you believe there is a problem using epoxy for this application. 
> I'd consider 5200 for wood connections where grain was at right angles 
> like for the post at the rudder and the rest of the keel. I am 
> planning on using all deadwood and no flooded chambers.
> 
> Sincerely,
> Gene T.
> 
> On 11 Jan, 2010, at 6:09 PM, dnjost wrote:
> 
> > I had no issue with the keel attachment for Micro. Drilled the holes 
> > for the batten. put down plenty of 5200 and then when the keel is 
> > attached and glued those holes are very well protected from water 
> > penetration. I did use bronze bolts however.
> >
> > On the Workskiff I am building, I did drill the transom hole 
> > oversized, filled and redrilled for the transom drain. That was a 
> > problem area on the Diablo I formerly built and destroyed. I have 
> > yet to install the copper tube, but will bed it in 5200 when I get 
> > the chance.
> >
> > David Jost
> >
> >
> >
>


Ah. I did not realize you were deviating from the plans here. Are you attaching the lead with bolts, or encapsulating in plywood? are you staying with the wooden batten as Bolger describes. Perhaps that is where I was confused.
I built to plan. Peter Lenihan built his with deadwood (first class job), he might be a better resource here. Although properly bedded fastenings should be fine. if you have a barrier between the head of the fastener and the nut the water will not penetrate easily.

David



--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Gene Tehansky <goldranger02-boats@...> wrote:
>
> David,
> Do you believe there is a problem using epoxy for this application.
> I'd consider 5200 for wood connections where grain was at right angles
> like for the post at the rudder and the rest of the keel. I am
> planning on using all deadwood and no flooded chambers.
>
> Sincerely,
> Gene T.
>
> On 11 Jan, 2010, at 6:09 PM, dnjost wrote:
>
> > I had no issue with the keel attachment for Micro. Drilled the holes
> > for the batten. put down plenty of 5200 and then when the keel is
> > attached and glued those holes are very well protected from water
> > penetration. I did use bronze bolts however.
> >
> > On the Workskiff I am building, I did drill the transom hole
> > oversized, filled and redrilled for the transom drain. That was a
> > problem area on the Diablo I formerly built and destroyed. I have
> > yet to install the copper tube, but will bed it in 5200 when I get
> > the chance.
> >
> > David Jost
> >
> >
> >
>
David,
Do you believe there is a problem using epoxy for this application.  I'd consider 5200 for wood connections where grain was at right angles like for the post at the rudder and the rest of the keel.  I am planning on using all deadwood and no flooded chambers.

Sincerely,
Gene T.

On 11 Jan, 2010, at 6:09 PM, dnjost wrote:

I had no issue with the keel attachment for Micro. Drilled the holes for the batten. put down plenty of 5200 and then when the keel is attached and glued those holes are very well protected from water penetration. I did use bronze bolts however. 

On the Workskiff I am building, I did drill the transom hole oversized, filled and redrilled for the transom drain. That was a problem area on the Diablo I formerly built and destroyed. I have yet to install the copper tube, but will bed it in 5200 when I get the chance. 

David Jost


I had no issue with the keel attachment for Micro. Drilled the holes for the batten. put down plenty of 5200 and then when the keel is attached and glued those holes are very well protected from water penetration. I did use bronze bolts however.

On the Workskiff I am building, I did drill the transom hole oversized, filled and redrilled for the transom drain. That was a problem area on the Diablo I formerly built and destroyed. I have yet to install the copper tube, but will bed it in 5200 when I get the chance.

David Jost
I have never seen the troll part played out from beginning to end and I found it instructional.  It appeared that he attempted to goad each individual into responding with some harsh comment about the individuals character.  When there was no response it ended.  Sometimes it is so hard to not comment, this time I was comfortable with it.  It is just to bad that such harsh things were said about Phil for no reason, I hope none of them were taken to heart by Susanne.  Kind of obvious why some people might choose to avoid this network environment with their business.

Having a difficult time motivating myself on the next step of my build.  Ready to start work on the wood portions of the keel on my Micro Navigator but...  I'm close to diving in, just drilling some holes, bolting and glueing.  Add screws later.  I was wondering if the bolts going through the bottom of the boat should be in enlarged holes filled with epoxy then redrilled to the boat size.  The less end grain exposed to water the better.

Sincerely,
Gene T.

On 11 Jan, 2010, at 11:47 AM, david johnson wrote:


 
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
 
sounds like greg is guilty of all of these is the an ignore button we can use for him mr mod thanks for any help with this troll


- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
sounds like greg is guilty of all of these is the an ignore button we can use for him mr mod thanks for any help with this troll


On Sun, Jan 10, 2010 at 5:49 AM, haffdaddy<haffdaddy@...>wrote:

As Mr Bolger seem to be of a weak mind, perhaps his designs should be checked for soundness. Normal people don't get up one day and blow there brains all over the ceiling and walls.
Greg


wow, I hope greg will not be posting anymore. what a horrible person
Didn't mean to post, hit wrong key - BUT - don't wish to leave impression  that I agree with petty minded and ugly posting -
 
REMARKABLE just how wrong headed and wrong hearted some people can be ... but perhaps it is just butt ugly ignorance.
I agree, enough is enough. Webmaster please do something.
Lou Brochetti
----- Original Message -----
Sent:Sunday, January 10, 2010 6:45 AM
Subject:Re: [bolger] Re: Soundness of design / it is safe?

 



On Sun, Jan 10, 2010 at 4:49 AM, haffdaddy<haffdaddy@yahoo. com>wrote:
 
I'm sorry Greg, but you've overstepped the bounds. I would recommend the webmaster block your postings.
 
Phil Bolger had a history of Alzheimer's disease in his family. He had made it known a long time ago that he did not want to go through that, or put any of his loved ones through that experience, and that he would choose his own way to go when he saw signs of the disease. I just recently lost my father-in-law to Alzheimer's, so I know how difficult the fading away process is.
 
Fred

As Mr Bolger seem to be of a weak mind, perhaps his designs should be checked for soundness. Normal people don't get up one day and blow there brains all over the ceiling and walls.
Greg

Sadly there are far too many people in the world who must never have received the attention they needed when they were young of the loving and positive sort. These sad and lonely people only got attention when they broke or damaged things and as a result they strike out to gain attention as the only way they know how.

Even sadder that if they just tried to be a little positive and tried not being a jerk they would be mostly welcomed with open arms.

Sad that... But they deserve our pity much more than our anger as the sad state of their lives is much more dire than anything we could imagine. It must be a horrible way to live...
On Sun, Jan 10, 2010 at 4:49 AM, haffdaddy<haffdaddy@...>wrote:

As Mr Bolger seem to be of a weak mind, perhaps his designs should be checked for soundness. Normal people don't get up one day and blow there brains all over the ceiling and walls.
Greg

I'm sorry Greg, but you've overstepped the bounds. I would recommend the webmaster block your postings.
Phil Bolger had a history of Alzheimer's disease in his family. He had made it known a long time ago that he did not want to go through that, or put any of his loved ones through that experience, and that he would choose his own way to go when he saw signs of the disease. I just recently lost my father-in-law to Alzheimer's, so I know how difficult the fading away process is.
Fred