Re: [bolger] Pointy Skiff Fleet
I know this is kinda of the subject but I was wondering if Phil and Susanne ever got thier web page up and working and if so what the url is D.W.Johnson somewhere in NC.near wake forest On Sun, 30 Jul 2000 02:07:21 EDTwmrpage@...wrote:
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>In a message dated 7/27/00 9:03:58 AM Central Daylight Time,_________________________________________________________________
>jchamberlin@...writes:
>
><< Speaking of supplies.....has anyone tried 3M 5200? >>
>
>My father and I put a cold-molded bottom on an over-powered, seriously
>beaten, 1946 vintage Garwood some years ago using 3M5200 as adhesive. It
>worked very well, but it looks a lot like s--t and you will never, ever, get
>it out of your overalls!
>
>Bill in MN
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------------<e|-
>Accurate impartial advice on everything from laptops to table saws.
>http://click.egroups.com/1/4634/13/_/3457/_/964937255/
>--------------------------------------------------------------------|e>-
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing
>- stay on topic
>- use punctuation
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
>- add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
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In a message dated 7/30/00 8:43:49 PM Central Daylight Time,
gcouger@...writes:
<< Bill,
Why did you choose 5200 over epoxy?
I like 5200 for a some things. There are just not very many places that
call for a flexible glue. >>
It was my father's project and I really don't recall why he chose to use 5200
- maybe just for variety's sake - probably he was concerned about pot time
with epoxy, given that this was a two-man job, with rather large sheets to be
fitted and fastened - perhaps he thought a little flexibility would not be
amiss on a 50 yr. old, conventionally framed boat. In any case it worked very
well. The stuff we had as a brown, and cured quite slowly - no mixing and
lots of time to get the plys in position. But my coveralls did look like I'd
been dragged through a feedlot by the time we were done and it took some time
to cure on the coveralls too!
Bill in MN
gcouger@...writes:
<< Bill,
Why did you choose 5200 over epoxy?
I like 5200 for a some things. There are just not very many places that
call for a flexible glue. >>
It was my father's project and I really don't recall why he chose to use 5200
- maybe just for variety's sake - probably he was concerned about pot time
with epoxy, given that this was a two-man job, with rather large sheets to be
fitted and fastened - perhaps he thought a little flexibility would not be
amiss on a 50 yr. old, conventionally framed boat. In any case it worked very
well. The stuff we had as a brown, and cured quite slowly - no mixing and
lots of time to get the plys in position. But my coveralls did look like I'd
been dragged through a feedlot by the time we were done and it took some time
to cure on the coveralls too!
Bill in MN
From: <wmrpage@...>
Why did you choose 5200 over epoxy?
I like 5200 for a some things. There are just not very many places that
call for a flexible glue.
Gordon
Gordon Cougergcouger@...
Stillwater, OK www.couger.com/gcouger
405 624-2855 GMT -6:00
> In a message dated 7/27/00 9:03:58 AM Central Daylight Time,get
>jchamberlin@...writes:
>
> << Speaking of supplies.....has anyone tried 3M 5200? >>
>
> My father and I put a cold-molded bottom on an over-powered, seriously
> beaten, 1946 vintage Garwood some years ago using 3M5200 as adhesive. It
> worked very well, but it looks a lot like s--t and you will never, ever,
> it out of your overalls!Bill,
>
Why did you choose 5200 over epoxy?
I like 5200 for a some things. There are just not very many places that
call for a flexible glue.
Gordon
Gordon Cougergcouger@...
Stillwater, OK www.couger.com/gcouger
405 624-2855 GMT -6:00
My understanding is that 3M 5200 is specifically a marine product. I
don't
think you'll find it in a building supply place. You will find PL
Premium construction adhesive, which I expect would be good for a
Pointy Skiff.
If you really want 5200, try:
http://www.defenderus.com/
http://www.defenderus.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?cart_id=
or West Marine, or some other marine supplier.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Jim Chamberlin RCSIS" <jchamberlin@r...>
wrote:
snip
don't
think you'll find it in a building supply place. You will find PL
Premium construction adhesive, which I expect would be good for a
Pointy Skiff.
If you really want 5200, try:
http://www.defenderus.com/
http://www.defenderus.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?cart_id=
or West Marine, or some other marine supplier.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Jim Chamberlin RCSIS" <jchamberlin@r...>
wrote:
snip
> I'm still trying to find 5200 at a building supply. Closest HomeDepot
> doesn't carry it.
>snip
>
>snip
Either s _ _ t has changed color or the adhesive has. The stuff in the tube
is white, and yes, it doesn't seem to clean up easily at all. But is this
stuff easy to work with. The fast cure type I'm using sets up in about 30
minutes in the 100 degree Sacramento heat. Point of clarification....I'm
still going to use thickened epoxy for fillets and taping on other projects.
I'm still trying to find 5200 at a building supply. Closest Home Depot
doesn't carry it.
Butt strapped and glued the hull side panels today and cut out two
bulkheads. Used way too many smooth copper nails on the straps. Framing up
the bulkheads and attaching the two hull panels tomorrow two bulkheads one
and two.
Jim Chamberlin
is white, and yes, it doesn't seem to clean up easily at all. But is this
stuff easy to work with. The fast cure type I'm using sets up in about 30
minutes in the 100 degree Sacramento heat. Point of clarification....I'm
still going to use thickened epoxy for fillets and taping on other projects.
I'm still trying to find 5200 at a building supply. Closest Home Depot
doesn't carry it.
Butt strapped and glued the hull side panels today and cut out two
bulkheads. Used way too many smooth copper nails on the straps. Framing up
the bulkheads and attaching the two hull panels tomorrow two bulkheads one
and two.
Jim Chamberlin
> -----Original Message-----
> From:wmrpage@...[mailto:wmrpage@...]
> Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 11:07 PM
> To:bolger@egroups.com
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Pointy Skiff Fleet
>
>
> In a message dated 7/27/00 9:03:58 AM Central Daylight Time,
>jchamberlin@...writes:
>
> << Speaking of supplies.....has anyone tried 3M 5200? >>
>
> My father and I put a cold-molded bottom on an over-powered, seriously
> beaten, 1946 vintage Garwood some years ago using 3M5200 as adhesive. It
> worked very well, but it looks a lot like s--t and you will
> never, ever, get
> it out of your overalls!
>
> Bill in MN
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
In a message dated 7/27/00 9:03:58 AM Central Daylight Time,
jchamberlin@...writes:
<< Speaking of supplies.....has anyone tried 3M 5200? >>
My father and I put a cold-molded bottom on an over-powered, seriously
beaten, 1946 vintage Garwood some years ago using 3M5200 as adhesive. It
worked very well, but it looks a lot like s--t and you will never, ever, get
it out of your overalls!
Bill in MN
jchamberlin@...writes:
<< Speaking of supplies.....has anyone tried 3M 5200? >>
My father and I put a cold-molded bottom on an over-powered, seriously
beaten, 1946 vintage Garwood some years ago using 3M5200 as adhesive. It
worked very well, but it looks a lot like s--t and you will never, ever, get
it out of your overalls!
Bill in MN
It probably is a bit ambitious, but I've got one year of use now on a very
quickly built stitch-and-glue double paddle canoe, using PL-Premium
Polyurethane Construction Adhesive for the fillets, backed conventionally
inside and out with glass tape and epoxy. The idea was quick and cheap
fillets, right out of the tube, no mixing, fast cure. The boat has been
stored outside all year (Alaska) and abused a lot, on purpose. Time will
tell. I'll give my experiment a few more years of abuse before I go
touting the method though. No way is it as strong as epoxy, but it might
be strong enough for some filleting applications. In the meantime, I'm
using epoxy fillets on projects I really care about, like Cartopper.
Incidentally I also used 1 (yes one) coat of leftover oil-base solid house
stain on this experiment, no primer, and launched it the next day. Complete
heresy. But I just put on a second coat last night after a year stored
outside and the luan looks perfect. Anybody else tried this stuff? Great
penetration.
--Fritz
Gregg Carlson wrote:
Fritz Funk
Email at home:fritzf@...
Email at work:fritz_funk@...
Phone: (H): (907)780-4261 (W):(907)465-6113
Snail: P.O. 6017 Sunset Street, Juneau, AK 99801-9728
My Boat Page:http://www.alaska.net/~fritzf/Boats/Boats.htm
(Current Project: Sneakeasy, a Phil Bolger Power Sharpie)
quickly built stitch-and-glue double paddle canoe, using PL-Premium
Polyurethane Construction Adhesive for the fillets, backed conventionally
inside and out with glass tape and epoxy. The idea was quick and cheap
fillets, right out of the tube, no mixing, fast cure. The boat has been
stored outside all year (Alaska) and abused a lot, on purpose. Time will
tell. I'll give my experiment a few more years of abuse before I go
touting the method though. No way is it as strong as epoxy, but it might
be strong enough for some filleting applications. In the meantime, I'm
using epoxy fillets on projects I really care about, like Cartopper.
Incidentally I also used 1 (yes one) coat of leftover oil-base solid house
stain on this experiment, no primer, and launched it the next day. Complete
heresy. But I just put on a second coat last night after a year stored
outside and the luan looks perfect. Anybody else tried this stuff? Great
penetration.
--Fritz
Gregg Carlson wrote:
>Might be ambitious to use it in stitch-and-glue, however.----------------
Fritz Funk
Email at home:fritzf@...
Email at work:fritz_funk@...
Phone: (H): (907)780-4261 (W):(907)465-6113
Snail: P.O. 6017 Sunset Street, Juneau, AK 99801-9728
My Boat Page:http://www.alaska.net/~fritzf/Boats/Boats.htm
(Current Project: Sneakeasy, a Phil Bolger Power Sharpie)
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, GHC <ghartc@p...> wrote:
the
virtues of the 5200. In addition it is somewhat more rigid and a lot
cheaper (I think, maybe $2 or $3 a tube). Haven't done strength or
durability tests, but so far, so good. I'm sure it's necessary to use
a little intelligence on surface prep and what is suitable where.
Have
done repair on Brick daggerboard guide and put on some gunwhales with
it so far.
> Gordon,why?
> snip (re 3M 5200) Not to be argumentative, but what's better and
>I find that PL Premium construction adhesive seems to have many of
> Gregg Carlson
>
>
>
the
virtues of the 5200. In addition it is somewhat more rigid and a lot
cheaper (I think, maybe $2 or $3 a tube). Haven't done strength or
durability tests, but so far, so good. I'm sure it's necessary to use
a little intelligence on surface prep and what is suitable where.
Have
done repair on Brick daggerboard guide and put on some gunwhales with
it so far.
I've been using it to bed dimensioned wood to the ply and epoxy hull, things
like the rub rails and bits of trim. I understand that rigid glue like
epoxy will fail where the parts might expand and contract at different
rates. I don't know how it will work out in the long run, but it sure looks
solid at this point.
I find the biggest drawback is cost -- it's expensive and starts to cure
fairly quickly. Once the tube is opened, I don't think it will last long,
even if plugged between uses.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: Gordon Couger [mailto:gcouger@...]
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 9:20 AM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Pointy Skiff Fleet, 5200
Most boat designers assume rigid glue. Caulking is recommend for any place
you will need to remove and replace the item. Not being a rigid glue is
doesn't cover many. Before using it talk to your designer and your banker.
There are many things that do the job better for the same price.
Gordon
Gordon Cougergcouger@...
Stillwater, OK www.couger.com/gcouger
405 624-2855 GMT -6:00
like the rub rails and bits of trim. I understand that rigid glue like
epoxy will fail where the parts might expand and contract at different
rates. I don't know how it will work out in the long run, but it sure looks
solid at this point.
I find the biggest drawback is cost -- it's expensive and starts to cure
fairly quickly. Once the tube is opened, I don't think it will last long,
even if plugged between uses.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: Gordon Couger [mailto:gcouger@...]
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 9:20 AM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Pointy Skiff Fleet, 5200
Most boat designers assume rigid glue. Caulking is recommend for any place
you will need to remove and replace the item. Not being a rigid glue is
doesn't cover many. Before using it talk to your designer and your banker.
There are many things that do the job better for the same price.
Gordon
Gordon Cougergcouger@...
Stillwater, OK www.couger.com/gcouger
405 624-2855 GMT -6:00
----- Original Message -----
From: "G Carlson" <ghartc@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Pointy Skiff Fleet, 5200
> Begging to differ, 5200 IS an adhesive/sealant, permanent. Recommended
> uses are:
> Wood decking
> Deck to hull joints
> Wood to fiberglass joints
> Fiberglass to fiberglass joints
> Wood to wood
> Thru-hulls
>
> That covers a pretty broad range, with the caveats that epoxy probably
> won't really stick to it, and it cures slowly, especially in dry
weather.
> Fast-cure 5200 is nice.
>
> I think it would be excellent for planking, too. Might be ambitious to
use
> it in stitch-and-glue, however.
>
> Gregg
>
>
> >If you want glue use glue, if you want caulking use caulking don't use
> >5200 unless you know exactly why you need it's unique properties. It
is
> >really good stuff for some things but not many on a boat.
> >
> >Gordon
> >Gordon Cougergcouger@...
> >Stillwater, OK www.couger.com/gcouger
> >405 624-2855 GMT -6:00
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Jim Chamberlin RCSIS" <jchamberlin@...>
> >To: <bolger@egroups.com>
> >Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 9:05 AM
> >Subject: [bolger] Pointy Skiff Fleet
> >
> >
> >> Well, I did it. Got the plans, brought home the plywood and began
> >laying
> >> out the parts. Actually cut out two hull panels last night. This is
> >going
> >> to be fun. I decided that the Teal could wait until each of my
> >grandkids
> >> had their own fishing boat. The Pointy Skiff. Yep, I'm building
three.
> >And
> >> yes, H. H. Payson & Co. will get a $40 check for each of the
subsequent
> >> boats.
> >>
> >> I also found a local source for wooden boat supplies and advice. His
> >> supplies are pricey, but the advice is factored into the cost, I'm
sure.
> >>
> >> Speaking of supplies.....has anyone tried 3M 5200? According to my
> >local
> >> classic craft shop, its what to use. No mixing, applies out of a
> >caulking
> >> gun tube. 1600# tensile strength and it remains somewhat flexible
after
> >> curing. Supposedly builders around here (Sacramento)are using it to
> >glue
> >> planks on lapstrake construction. The shop uses it for all wooden
boat
> >> restoration and builds. Seems like it would beat using copper clinch
> >nails
> >> or rivets on lapstrake.
> >>
> >> Gone on too long. Be prepared for a few questions and possibly a few
> >> pictures as the "fleet" takes shape. BTW, the grandkids are helping
me
> >and
> >> they don't have a clue that they are working on their own boats.
> >>
> >> Jim Chamberlin, Sleepless in Sacramento
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing
- stay on topic
- use punctuation
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
Gordon,
It doesn't sound like you like it, but it's used a LOT in boatbuilding and
repair. For instance, I saw a wooden powerboat being rebuilt with frames
being sistered and new planks installed - all 5200 below the waterline.
Being moisture-cured makes it pretty desireable for this kind of work
(wet). And rigidity really has nothing to do with it when the joinery is
done with large flat areas (s in sistering those frames)
It's a perfectly suitable adhesive for something like a micro where you are
gluing and fastening a panel to a chine log.
I dropped my Whitehall the other day, and the epoxy cracked like glass
along some seams, so rigidity ain't all it's cracked up to be. (Not that I
would recommend trying to create filets and glass taping with 5200!)
You're right, it's expensive. However, it's single-component, it's
pre-thickened, it loves water, and it's tough. It's different and not as
universal as epoxy given the additives, but it's way up there with epoxy,
and what else? (certanly not weldwood, polyester, gorilla glue, or
Casconite?) Not to be argumentative, but what's better and why?
Gregg Carlson
At 11:19 AM 7/28/2000 -0500, you wrote:
It doesn't sound like you like it, but it's used a LOT in boatbuilding and
repair. For instance, I saw a wooden powerboat being rebuilt with frames
being sistered and new planks installed - all 5200 below the waterline.
Being moisture-cured makes it pretty desireable for this kind of work
(wet). And rigidity really has nothing to do with it when the joinery is
done with large flat areas (s in sistering those frames)
It's a perfectly suitable adhesive for something like a micro where you are
gluing and fastening a panel to a chine log.
I dropped my Whitehall the other day, and the epoxy cracked like glass
along some seams, so rigidity ain't all it's cracked up to be. (Not that I
would recommend trying to create filets and glass taping with 5200!)
You're right, it's expensive. However, it's single-component, it's
pre-thickened, it loves water, and it's tough. It's different and not as
universal as epoxy given the additives, but it's way up there with epoxy,
and what else? (certanly not weldwood, polyester, gorilla glue, or
Casconite?) Not to be argumentative, but what's better and why?
Gregg Carlson
At 11:19 AM 7/28/2000 -0500, you wrote:
>Most boat designers assume rigid glue. Caulking is recommend for any place
>you will need to remove and replace the item. Not being a rigid glue is
>doesn't cover many. Before using it talk to your designer and your banker.
>There are many things that do the job better for the same price.
>
>Gordon
>Gordon Cougergcouger@...
>Stillwater, OK www.couger.com/gcouger
>405 624-2855 GMT -6:00
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "G Carlson" <ghartc@...>
>To: <bolger@egroups.com>
>Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 9:07 AM
>Subject: Re: [bolger] Pointy Skiff Fleet, 5200
>
>
>> Begging to differ, 5200 IS an adhesive/sealant, permanent. Recommended
>> uses are:
>> Wood decking
>> Deck to hull joints
>> Wood to fiberglass joints
>> Fiberglass to fiberglass joints
>> Wood to wood
>> Thru-hulls
>>
>> That covers a pretty broad range, with the caveats that epoxy probably
>> won't really stick to it, and it cures slowly, especially in dry
>weather.
>> Fast-cure 5200 is nice.
>>
>> I think it would be excellent for planking, too. Might be ambitious to
>use
>> it in stitch-and-glue, however.
>>
>> Gregg
>>
>>
>> >If you want glue use glue, if you want caulking use caulking don't use
>> >5200 unless you know exactly why you need it's unique properties. It
>is
>> >really good stuff for some things but not many on a boat.
>> >
>> >Gordon
>> >Gordon Cougergcouger@...
>> >Stillwater, OK www.couger.com/gcouger
>> >405 624-2855 GMT -6:00
>> >
>> >----- Original Message -----
>> >From: "Jim Chamberlin RCSIS" <jchamberlin@...>
>> >To: <bolger@egroups.com>
>> >Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 9:05 AM
>> >Subject: [bolger] Pointy Skiff Fleet
>> >
>> >
>> >> Well, I did it. Got the plans, brought home the plywood and began
>> >laying
>> >> out the parts. Actually cut out two hull panels last night. This is
>> >going
>> >> to be fun. I decided that the Teal could wait until each of my
>> >grandkids
>> >> had their own fishing boat. The Pointy Skiff. Yep, I'm building
>three.
>> >And
>> >> yes, H. H. Payson & Co. will get a $40 check for each of the
>subsequent
>> >> boats.
>> >>
>> >> I also found a local source for wooden boat supplies and advice. His
>> >> supplies are pricey, but the advice is factored into the cost, I'm
>sure.
>> >>
>> >> Speaking of supplies.....has anyone tried 3M 5200? According to my
>> >local
>> >> classic craft shop, its what to use. No mixing, applies out of a
>> >caulking
>> >> gun tube. 1600# tensile strength and it remains somewhat flexible
>after
>> >> curing. Supposedly builders around here (Sacramento)are using it to
>> >glue
>> >> planks on lapstrake construction. The shop uses it for all wooden
>boat
>> >> restoration and builds. Seems like it would beat using copper clinch
>> >nails
>> >> or rivets on lapstrake.
>> >>
>> >> Gone on too long. Be prepared for a few questions and possibly a few
>> >> pictures as the "fleet" takes shape. BTW, the grandkids are helping
>me
>> >and
>> >> they don't have a clue that they are working on their own boats.
>> >>
>> >> Jim Chamberlin, Sleepless in Sacramento
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Bolger rules!!!
>> - no cursing
>> - stay on topic
>> - use punctuation
>> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
>> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing
>- stay on topic
>- use punctuation
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
>- add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
>
Most boat designers assume rigid glue. Caulking is recommend for any place
you will need to remove and replace the item. Not being a rigid glue is
doesn't cover many. Before using it talk to your designer and your banker.
There are many things that do the job better for the same price.
Gordon
Gordon Cougergcouger@...
Stillwater, OK www.couger.com/gcouger
405 624-2855 GMT -6:00
you will need to remove and replace the item. Not being a rigid glue is
doesn't cover many. Before using it talk to your designer and your banker.
There are many things that do the job better for the same price.
Gordon
Gordon Cougergcouger@...
Stillwater, OK www.couger.com/gcouger
405 624-2855 GMT -6:00
----- Original Message -----
From: "G Carlson" <ghartc@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Pointy Skiff Fleet, 5200
> Begging to differ, 5200 IS an adhesive/sealant, permanent. Recommended
> uses are:
> Wood decking
> Deck to hull joints
> Wood to fiberglass joints
> Fiberglass to fiberglass joints
> Wood to wood
> Thru-hulls
>
> That covers a pretty broad range, with the caveats that epoxy probably
> won't really stick to it, and it cures slowly, especially in dry
weather.
> Fast-cure 5200 is nice.
>
> I think it would be excellent for planking, too. Might be ambitious to
use
> it in stitch-and-glue, however.
>
> Gregg
>
>
> >If you want glue use glue, if you want caulking use caulking don't use
> >5200 unless you know exactly why you need it's unique properties. It
is
> >really good stuff for some things but not many on a boat.
> >
> >Gordon
> >Gordon Cougergcouger@...
> >Stillwater, OK www.couger.com/gcouger
> >405 624-2855 GMT -6:00
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Jim Chamberlin RCSIS" <jchamberlin@...>
> >To: <bolger@egroups.com>
> >Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 9:05 AM
> >Subject: [bolger] Pointy Skiff Fleet
> >
> >
> >> Well, I did it. Got the plans, brought home the plywood and began
> >laying
> >> out the parts. Actually cut out two hull panels last night. This is
> >going
> >> to be fun. I decided that the Teal could wait until each of my
> >grandkids
> >> had their own fishing boat. The Pointy Skiff. Yep, I'm building
three.
> >And
> >> yes, H. H. Payson & Co. will get a $40 check for each of the
subsequent
> >> boats.
> >>
> >> I also found a local source for wooden boat supplies and advice. His
> >> supplies are pricey, but the advice is factored into the cost, I'm
sure.
> >>
> >> Speaking of supplies.....has anyone tried 3M 5200? According to my
> >local
> >> classic craft shop, its what to use. No mixing, applies out of a
> >caulking
> >> gun tube. 1600# tensile strength and it remains somewhat flexible
after
> >> curing. Supposedly builders around here (Sacramento)are using it to
> >glue
> >> planks on lapstrake construction. The shop uses it for all wooden
boat
> >> restoration and builds. Seems like it would beat using copper clinch
> >nails
> >> or rivets on lapstrake.
> >>
> >> Gone on too long. Be prepared for a few questions and possibly a few
> >> pictures as the "fleet" takes shape. BTW, the grandkids are helping
me
> >and
> >> they don't have a clue that they are working on their own boats.
> >>
> >> Jim Chamberlin, Sleepless in Sacramento
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
>
Begging to differ, 5200 IS an adhesive/sealant, permanent. Recommended
uses are:
Wood decking
Deck to hull joints
Wood to fiberglass joints
Fiberglass to fiberglass joints
Wood to wood
Thru-hulls
That covers a pretty broad range, with the caveats that epoxy probably
won't really stick to it, and it cures slowly, especially in dry weather.
Fast-cure 5200 is nice.
I think it would be excellent for planking, too. Might be ambitious to use
it in stitch-and-glue, however.
Gregg
uses are:
Wood decking
Deck to hull joints
Wood to fiberglass joints
Fiberglass to fiberglass joints
Wood to wood
Thru-hulls
That covers a pretty broad range, with the caveats that epoxy probably
won't really stick to it, and it cures slowly, especially in dry weather.
Fast-cure 5200 is nice.
I think it would be excellent for planking, too. Might be ambitious to use
it in stitch-and-glue, however.
Gregg
>If you want glue use glue, if you want caulking use caulking don't use
>5200 unless you know exactly why you need it's unique properties. It is
>really good stuff for some things but not many on a boat.
>
>Gordon
>Gordon Cougergcouger@...
>Stillwater, OK www.couger.com/gcouger
>405 624-2855 GMT -6:00
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jim Chamberlin RCSIS" <jchamberlin@...>
>To: <bolger@egroups.com>
>Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 9:05 AM
>Subject: [bolger] Pointy Skiff Fleet
>
>
>> Well, I did it. Got the plans, brought home the plywood and began
>laying
>> out the parts. Actually cut out two hull panels last night. This is
>going
>> to be fun. I decided that the Teal could wait until each of my
>grandkids
>> had their own fishing boat. The Pointy Skiff. Yep, I'm building three.
>And
>> yes, H. H. Payson & Co. will get a $40 check for each of the subsequent
>> boats.
>>
>> I also found a local source for wooden boat supplies and advice. His
>> supplies are pricey, but the advice is factored into the cost, I'm sure.
>>
>> Speaking of supplies.....has anyone tried 3M 5200? According to my
>local
>> classic craft shop, its what to use. No mixing, applies out of a
>caulking
>> gun tube. 1600# tensile strength and it remains somewhat flexible after
>> curing. Supposedly builders around here (Sacramento)are using it to
>glue
>> planks on lapstrake construction. The shop uses it for all wooden boat
>> restoration and builds. Seems like it would beat using copper clinch
>nails
>> or rivets on lapstrake.
>>
>> Gone on too long. Be prepared for a few questions and possibly a few
>> pictures as the "fleet" takes shape. BTW, the grandkids are helping me
>and
>> they don't have a clue that they are working on their own boats.
>>
>> Jim Chamberlin, Sleepless in Sacramento
If you want glue use glue, if you want caulking use caulking don't use
5200 unless you know exactly why you need it's unique properties. It is
really good stuff for some things but not many on a boat.
Gordon
Gordon Cougergcouger@...
Stillwater, OK www.couger.com/gcouger
405 624-2855 GMT -6:00
5200 unless you know exactly why you need it's unique properties. It is
really good stuff for some things but not many on a boat.
Gordon
Gordon Cougergcouger@...
Stillwater, OK www.couger.com/gcouger
405 624-2855 GMT -6:00
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Chamberlin RCSIS" <jchamberlin@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 9:05 AM
Subject: [bolger] Pointy Skiff Fleet
> Well, I did it. Got the plans, brought home the plywood and began
laying
> out the parts. Actually cut out two hull panels last night. This is
going
> to be fun. I decided that the Teal could wait until each of my
grandkids
> had their own fishing boat. The Pointy Skiff. Yep, I'm building three.
And
> yes, H. H. Payson & Co. will get a $40 check for each of the subsequent
> boats.
>
> I also found a local source for wooden boat supplies and advice. His
> supplies are pricey, but the advice is factored into the cost, I'm sure.
>
> Speaking of supplies.....has anyone tried 3M 5200? According to my
local
> classic craft shop, its what to use. No mixing, applies out of a
caulking
> gun tube. 1600# tensile strength and it remains somewhat flexible after
> curing. Supposedly builders around here (Sacramento)are using it to
glue
> planks on lapstrake construction. The shop uses it for all wooden boat
> restoration and builds. Seems like it would beat using copper clinch
nails
> or rivets on lapstrake.
>
> Gone on too long. Be prepared for a few questions and possibly a few
> pictures as the "fleet" takes shape. BTW, the grandkids are helping me
and
> they don't have a clue that they are working on their own boats.
>
> Jim Chamberlin, Sleepless in Sacramento
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>