Re: More on Paints
Fred,
Oops, I see I forgot to answer your question of where I was. I started in Kab and went through Namakan and the chain of lakes down and back. Put on 240 some miles.
Bob
Oops, I see I forgot to answer your question of where I was. I started in Kab and went through Namakan and the chain of lakes down and back. Put on 240 some miles.
Bob
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Fred Schumacher <fredschum@...> wrote:
> On Wed, Feb 17, 2010 at 842 AM, otter55806 <otter55806@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I've used rust oleum painters touch on two boats, one a bolger bantam and
> > the other an old aluminum 17 footer.
> >
>
>
> > After 5 years I plan to repaint this summer, mostly because of a 10' black
> > streak left when I figured I didn't need my bumpers at a Voyergeur's NP
> > dock. For some reason they used black rubber instead of the better (for
> > boats) white vlnyl.
> >
>
> Is that the Bantam or the canoe you had at Voyageur National Park? Did you
> go on Rainy Lake or Kabetogama? How did it do? I would think Bantam would be
> a great choice for the border lakes. Our permanent home is near there, so if
> you ever come up again with the Bantam, let me know.
>
> Fred
>
On Wed, Feb 17, 2010 at 8:42 AM, otter55806<otter55806@...>wrote:I've used rust oleum painters touch on two boats, one a bolger bantam and the other an old aluminum 17 footer.
After 5 years I plan to repaint this summer, mostly because of a 10' black streak left when I figured I didn't need my bumpers at a Voyergeur's NP dock. For some reason they used black rubber instead of the better (for boats) white vlnyl.
Is that the Bantam or the canoe you had at Voyageur National Park? Did you go on Rainy Lake or Kabetogama? How did it do? I would think Bantam would be a great choice for the border lakes. Our permanent home is near there, so if you ever come up again with the Bantam, let me know.
Fred
I've used rust oleum painters touch on two boats, one a bolger bantam and the other an old aluminum 17 footer. I used their primer too. I had furst used it on the aluminum hull because of the difficulty of most paint sticking to aluminum, where as latex is good for that. I then used in on the bantam because oil based paints seem to take weeks to dry on epoxy and latex dries rapidly. I never try for yacht finishes on my boats as I would rather boat than spend all the time trying to keep it looking like it did when first painted. I once travel in company with a few boats, one from Canada, on the Ten Tom. Every afternoon when we achored the Canadian got in his dingy and went around the boat wiping it down. I had a beer. Each to his own. Anyway, the point is I use a roller, stright. I don't tip with a brush after, so I can't say if you're able to get a gloss finish with this unless you spray. After 5 years I plan to repaint this summer, mostly because of a 10' black streak left when I figured I didn't need my bumpers at a Voyergeur's NP dock. For some reason they used black rubber instead of the better (for boats) white vlnyl. This paint does wear off uderneath the trailer tied down straps also, but it took over 4000 miles of towing before that, and still has not gone down to the primer after 5 years and 1200 miles of towing. My biggest disappooint is the deck. I always use white to reflect the soun and keep things cool. It gets dirty fast and no mount of scrubbing seems to return it to nice white, so the boat always seems a bit gruby. In the days when I used Pettit boat paint with no slip grit on the decks it didn't clean much better, come to think of it.
Another good thing about painters touch is that it is readily available. When I got careless in a lock once touch up paint was available at the local hardware store.
Jon, please keep us informed over time on how this new paint is holding up.
Bob
Another good thing about painters touch is that it is readily available. When I got careless in a lock once touch up paint was available at the local hardware store.
Jon, please keep us informed over time on how this new paint is holding up.
Bob
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "adventures_in_astrophotography" <jon@...> wrote:
>
> Most of my boats have exterior latex housepaint on them and their interiors. The paint is inexpensive, cleans up easily, and doesn't fry my brain without piped-in air. However, it eventually wears off wherever feet, hands, straps, or bunks make repeated contact.
>
> My Light (Cat) Schooner was painted with Sherwin-Williams Industrial Enamel, an oil based paint, over Tile Clad II epoxy from the same company, per Reuel Parker's method in The Sharpie Book. This finish has held up extremely well, and is much harder and smoother than latex housepaint. The trouble is, both the undercoat and topcoat have lots of VOCs and are extremely unpleasant to work with even using a good filter mask. Furthermore, both paints take a long time to cure, which is sub-optimal for my working conditions.
>
> In search of another solution, I just painted a newly-built Paul Fisher Assymetric Baby Raven canoe this weekend using two relatively new formulations from SW. The interior was done with Armorseal Tread-Plex Water-Based Coating, a satin interior/exterior industrial floor paint, at $44/gallon. The outside was done with Water-based Industrial Enamel, a gloss exterior formulation at $38/gallon.
>
> Normal SW stores don't carry these paints; you need to find the "commercial" SW store in your area, which I found on the SW website once I was in the "Industrial and Marine Coatings" area looking at these paints. Note that my total outlay for two gallons was less than it would be for three quarts of big-name marine topsides paint, and I could get it right here in town.
>
> Both paints went on very smoothly and dried quickly - not as fast as latex housepaint, but fast enough to set up during the short part of the day when I can keep the shop above 50F (it was -16F when I arrived in the morning on Sunday). Both paints were about as unpleasant as normal latex, with the hull paint slightly more so. My organic filter mask was more than adequate. I should note that I used Kilz II primer as an interface between the ply/epoxy/glass hull and both paints.
>
> I made a bad last minute decision at the store and blew it on the interior color, but otherwise I'm happy so far and really hopeful that these will take hard wear. There is still over two feet of ice on the lakes, so it will be a couple of months before I can report on performance. Nevertheless, I thought a change of subject might be useful for the group.
>
> Jon Kolb
> www.kolbsadventures.com
>
On Tue, Feb 16, 2010 at 2:12 PM, Harry James<welshman@...>wrote:On a boat or garage?
On a boat. On bare radiata pine plywood. I'd like to avoid the fiberglassing. Since the pine will check, I'd like to be able to repaint with the same paint after it checks.
Fred
On a boat or garage?
HJ
Fred Schumacher wrote:
HJ
Fred Schumacher wrote:
>
>
> Has anybody used two-part epoxy garage floor paint?
>
> Fred
>
>
>
We've used it over fiberglas. Not real smooth (at least as applied by
ham-fisted carpenter) but seems to be totally indestructable - inside at
least.
Also used white swimming pool paint (2-part epoxy)because it was left
over. It,too seemed to be indestructable.
- Peter
Fred Schumacher wrote:
ham-fisted carpenter) but seems to be totally indestructable - inside at
least.
Also used white swimming pool paint (2-part epoxy)because it was left
over. It,too seemed to be indestructable.
- Peter
Fred Schumacher wrote:
>
>
> Has anybody used two-part epoxy garage floor paint?
>
> Fred
>
>
>
Has anybody used two-part epoxy garage floor paint?
Fred
Fred
Hear hear!
> Nevertheless, I thought a change of subject might be useful for the group.
>
>
Most of my boats have exterior latex housepaint on them and their interiors. The paint is inexpensive, cleans up easily, and doesn't fry my brain without piped-in air. However, it eventually wears off wherever feet, hands, straps, or bunks make repeated contact.
My Light (Cat) Schooner was painted with Sherwin-Williams Industrial Enamel, an oil based paint, over Tile Clad II epoxy from the same company, per Reuel Parker's method in The Sharpie Book. This finish has held up extremely well, and is much harder and smoother than latex housepaint. The trouble is, both the undercoat and topcoat have lots of VOCs and are extremely unpleasant to work with even using a good filter mask. Furthermore, both paints take a long time to cure, which is sub-optimal for my working conditions.
In search of another solution, I just painted a newly-built Paul Fisher Assymetric Baby Raven canoe this weekend using two relatively new formulations from SW. The interior was done with Armorseal Tread-Plex Water-Based Coating, a satin interior/exterior industrial floor paint, at $44/gallon. The outside was done with Water-based Industrial Enamel, a gloss exterior formulation at $38/gallon.
Normal SW stores don't carry these paints; you need to find the "commercial" SW store in your area, which I found on the SW website once I was in the "Industrial and Marine Coatings" area looking at these paints. Note that my total outlay for two gallons was less than it would be for three quarts of big-name marine topsides paint, and I could get it right here in town.
Both paints went on very smoothly and dried quickly - not as fast as latex housepaint, but fast enough to set up during the short part of the day when I can keep the shop above 50F (it was -16F when I arrived in the morning on Sunday). Both paints were about as unpleasant as normal latex, with the hull paint slightly more so. My organic filter mask was more than adequate. I should note that I used Kilz II primer as an interface between the ply/epoxy/glass hull and both paints.
I made a bad last minute decision at the store and blew it on the interior color, but otherwise I'm happy so far and really hopeful that these will take hard wear. There is still over two feet of ice on the lakes, so it will be a couple of months before I can report on performance. Nevertheless, I thought a change of subject might be useful for the group.
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com
My Light (Cat) Schooner was painted with Sherwin-Williams Industrial Enamel, an oil based paint, over Tile Clad II epoxy from the same company, per Reuel Parker's method in The Sharpie Book. This finish has held up extremely well, and is much harder and smoother than latex housepaint. The trouble is, both the undercoat and topcoat have lots of VOCs and are extremely unpleasant to work with even using a good filter mask. Furthermore, both paints take a long time to cure, which is sub-optimal for my working conditions.
In search of another solution, I just painted a newly-built Paul Fisher Assymetric Baby Raven canoe this weekend using two relatively new formulations from SW. The interior was done with Armorseal Tread-Plex Water-Based Coating, a satin interior/exterior industrial floor paint, at $44/gallon. The outside was done with Water-based Industrial Enamel, a gloss exterior formulation at $38/gallon.
Normal SW stores don't carry these paints; you need to find the "commercial" SW store in your area, which I found on the SW website once I was in the "Industrial and Marine Coatings" area looking at these paints. Note that my total outlay for two gallons was less than it would be for three quarts of big-name marine topsides paint, and I could get it right here in town.
Both paints went on very smoothly and dried quickly - not as fast as latex housepaint, but fast enough to set up during the short part of the day when I can keep the shop above 50F (it was -16F when I arrived in the morning on Sunday). Both paints were about as unpleasant as normal latex, with the hull paint slightly more so. My organic filter mask was more than adequate. I should note that I used Kilz II primer as an interface between the ply/epoxy/glass hull and both paints.
I made a bad last minute decision at the store and blew it on the interior color, but otherwise I'm happy so far and really hopeful that these will take hard wear. There is still over two feet of ice on the lakes, so it will be a couple of months before I can report on performance. Nevertheless, I thought a change of subject might be useful for the group.
Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com