Re: sanding, lumps, rudder
David,
If you are asking if my glass sheathing continues across the
butt-joints, the answer is yes. My work table is 40 ft. long
(sawhorses and planks). I joined all of the sheets (5) in each
layer using three layers of 9 oz. bias tape on each side.
After building six layers one on top the other, I drew the
curvature of one side of the bottom and sawed the curve in as
many layers as my circular saw would penetrate (4 and part way
into layer 5) at one time. I applied glass cloth in epoxy to
the top two layers in the stack (had to flip one of them
first). These were then turned over and became the bottom
layer of the 3 layer bottom. BTW I am using 1/2 in. MDO. I
have a series of rope block-and-tackles which slide in
sections of sliding door track attached to my rafters on 8 ft.
centers. I can lift a 40' x 4' x1/2" panel off my table and
maneuver it over to the boat in about 4 minutes. I have to go
up and down the line adjusting pulleys several times during
the maneuver. I cleat the tails of the rope tackles on the
handles of the C clamps which I use to grab onto the panel.
After getting 2 layers attached to the bottom with thickened
epoxy and screws, I could then finish cutting through the rest
of the layers following the saw kerf left in layer 5. There is
a full lenghth center shoe (keel) on this design which is
about 2 ft wide and 4 layers of 1/2 in. ply thick. This allows
the bottom layers to run fore and aft joining up the center
over this shoe. So the center 2 ft of the hull is 7 layers of
1/2 in. (Bolger designed this hull as a river cruiser, and
there are all sorts of things found floating in most rivers.
Hopefully, the bottom of my boat will take an occasional
floating log in stride.) I am just today glueing the last
layers of the bottom onto the hull.
Vince
If you are asking if my glass sheathing continues across the
butt-joints, the answer is yes. My work table is 40 ft. long
(sawhorses and planks). I joined all of the sheets (5) in each
layer using three layers of 9 oz. bias tape on each side.
After building six layers one on top the other, I drew the
curvature of one side of the bottom and sawed the curve in as
many layers as my circular saw would penetrate (4 and part way
into layer 5) at one time. I applied glass cloth in epoxy to
the top two layers in the stack (had to flip one of them
first). These were then turned over and became the bottom
layer of the 3 layer bottom. BTW I am using 1/2 in. MDO. I
have a series of rope block-and-tackles which slide in
sections of sliding door track attached to my rafters on 8 ft.
centers. I can lift a 40' x 4' x1/2" panel off my table and
maneuver it over to the boat in about 4 minutes. I have to go
up and down the line adjusting pulleys several times during
the maneuver. I cleat the tails of the rope tackles on the
handles of the C clamps which I use to grab onto the panel.
After getting 2 layers attached to the bottom with thickened
epoxy and screws, I could then finish cutting through the rest
of the layers following the saw kerf left in layer 5. There is
a full lenghth center shoe (keel) on this design which is
about 2 ft wide and 4 layers of 1/2 in. ply thick. This allows
the bottom layers to run fore and aft joining up the center
over this shoe. So the center 2 ft of the hull is 7 layers of
1/2 in. (Bolger designed this hull as a river cruiser, and
there are all sorts of things found floating in most rivers.
Hopefully, the bottom of my boat will take an occasional
floating log in stride.) I am just today glueing the last
layers of the bottom onto the hull.
Vince
>way
> Is there any "laminated joint" effect that is lost doing it this
> rather than laminating *after* the plywood is bent into shape?
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
> CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
> 134 W.26th St. 12th Floor
> New York, NY 10001
> (212) 247-0296
>On my Dakota I am applying all the glass sheathing to the panelsIs there any "laminated joint" effect that is lost doing it this way
>while they are flat on my work table before bending them onto the
>hull.
rather than laminating *after* the plywood is bent into shape?
YIBB,
David
CRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
134 W.26th St. 12th Floor
New York, NY 10001
(212) 247-0296
On my Dakota I am applying all the glass sheathing to the panels
while they are flat on my work table before bending them onto the
hull. A tip on lumps is to use a sharp paint scraper, carbide blade
if you can find one, while the epoxy is still "green" (first 12 hours
or so). The rule is to scrape as soon as you can, but let it harden
as long as possible before you sand. (Less gumming up your sand
paper). I never use finer than 80 grit paper to sand epoxy. In fact,
most of the time I use 40 grit. Before painting, I wash the final
coat and use a ScotchBrite final finish pad.
while they are flat on my work table before bending them onto the
hull. A tip on lumps is to use a sharp paint scraper, carbide blade
if you can find one, while the epoxy is still "green" (first 12 hours
or so). The rule is to scrape as soon as you can, but let it harden
as long as possible before you sand. (Less gumming up your sand
paper). I never use finer than 80 grit paper to sand epoxy. In fact,
most of the time I use 40 grit. Before painting, I wash the final
coat and use a ScotchBrite final finish pad.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@m...> wrote:
> Can only stand sanding glass and epoxy an hour at a time. The more
I
> do it, the less I hate lumps. Wonder if I go on long enough if I
will
> feel like putting the lumps back on. Wishing they made MDO 1/4"
> occume
> and I had used it. Any time I start a boat from scratch from now on
I
> intend to put the glass on the sheets first. Still have another
boat
> to glass after this one.
>
> Wondering if when I have the Nymph done I can cartop it under the
> Brick or Roar II!
>
> Also set up tiller on brick with pivot a la Michalak so I can lift
it
> up and duck under. My S.O. has volunteered to do the detail
painting
> and varnishing, and even touch up paint on the hull.
Can only stand sanding glass and epoxy an hour at a time. The more I
do it, the less I hate lumps. Wonder if I go on long enough if I will
feel like putting the lumps back on. Wishing they made MDO 1/4"
occume
and I had used it. Any time I start a boat from scratch from now on I
intend to put the glass on the sheets first. Still have another boat
to glass after this one.
Wondering if when I have the Nymph done I can cartop it under the
Brick or Roar II!
Also set up tiller on brick with pivot a la Michalak so I can lift it
up and duck under. My S.O. has volunteered to do the detail painting
and varnishing, and even touch up paint on the hull.
do it, the less I hate lumps. Wonder if I go on long enough if I will
feel like putting the lumps back on. Wishing they made MDO 1/4"
occume
and I had used it. Any time I start a boat from scratch from now on I
intend to put the glass on the sheets first. Still have another boat
to glass after this one.
Wondering if when I have the Nymph done I can cartop it under the
Brick or Roar II!
Also set up tiller on brick with pivot a la Michalak so I can lift it
up and duck under. My S.O. has volunteered to do the detail painting
and varnishing, and even touch up paint on the hull.