Re: [bolger] Re: Centennial 11
> > The bigger problem was with the rudder in shallow water.If you need a shoal draft boat there are other designs to choose from,
> I guess a fix might be to...
which might be better a better option than redesign. Centenial II
doesn't have any 'shallow water' problems that 98% of the Marconi
sloops filling up my marina don't also share.
John, thanks for the additional information.
Re
In the right conditions, to pass over some thin water, how do you suppose Centennial II would sail with a rope-slung, elephant-ear, kick-up type leeboard substituting the temporarily stowed ballasted lee-daggerboards which would either be raised, or be laid flat on the floor inboard? Would the boat be too unstable for this in all but the lightest of winds?
Re
> The bigger problem was with the rudder in shallow water. It drewI guess a fix might be to shift the mizzen aside, similar to Mr Bolger's later asymetrical solutions, and have a casetted rudder on the centreline like in the Single Hander Schooner, or Canard. The problem with the rudder in a case is that for steerage it has to be all the way down. I suppose that means it would be better as an external kick-up arrangement hung from the stern post?
> about 30 inches and the post ran thru the bottom of the hull in the
> aft self draing well. The problem was to remove the rudder you
> needed the full length of rudder plus post say 5 feet and it was
> very tough to get back in needing swimming. The rudder would have
> to be moved abaft the mizzen to make a true shallow water sailer.
In the right conditions, to pass over some thin water, how do you suppose Centennial II would sail with a rope-slung, elephant-ear, kick-up type leeboard substituting the temporarily stowed ballasted lee-daggerboards which would either be raised, or be laid flat on the floor inboard? Would the boat be too unstable for this in all but the lightest of winds?
Thanks John, It is great to hear first hand accounts of Bolger boats,
especially the ones that are surrounded by accumulated legends and
bias like the Centennial II as described in Small Boat Journal.
Similar with Anhinga, I wish there was another person (like you) who
would build an Anhinga, exactly per plans, as opposed to the heavily
modified Sandy Bottoms failure and give us an informed second opinion.
especially the ones that are surrounded by accumulated legends and
bias like the Centennial II as described in Small Boat Journal.
Similar with Anhinga, I wish there was another person (like you) who
would build an Anhinga, exactly per plans, as opposed to the heavily
modified Sandy Bottoms failure and give us an informed second opinion.
On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 9:21 AM, captjbturtle <captjbturtle@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> In response to your questions cruzer, The cabin i finished in mahog ply varnished with a raked, flat front and back. Windows shaped to fit the slope and nice eyebrows around the edge.Looked very good with varnished gunwhales and got lots of compliments.The sheerline is very sweet.
> The problem with the fixed leeboards proved Mr Bolger right immediately so i did fix them.They were held in place by wood brackets thru the external chine. I removed the aft one and had comma shaped metal catches cut from heavy steel. I put a pivot bolt thru the chine and they swung forward and captured the boards. Worked well and I was able to swing and hold up the boards aft.
> The bigger problem was with the rudder in shallow water. It drew about 30 inches and the post ran thru the bottom of the hull in the aft self draing well. The problem was to remove the rudder you needed the full length of rudder plus post say 5 feet and it was very tough to get back in needing swimming. The rudder would have to be moved abaft the mizzen to make a true shallow water sailer.
> I did occasionally row her, not too bad with the boards up but she really needed a motor where I sailed her because of the albeit weak tidal flows in Florida. Shoulda listened to Mr Bolger and built a Black Skimmer.
> I shaped the foils nicely , they are pretty thick, steered with a hiking stick, nice feel.Put a lot of time into the foils with a plane.
> About the staysail, what can i say, she is a narrow boat not a lot of room, maybe a drifter better.
> She was a niche boat designed to be" the smallest fit to keep the sea," he said but not really enough room to stay there. Unless you really want to go offshore for short trips and keep her on a mooring I think there are many more suitable designs.
> Feel free to give me a call though if you want more info, days at 819 682 6805 , john.
>
>
In response to your questions cruzer, The cabin i finished in mahog ply varnished with a raked, flat front and back. Windows shaped to fit the slope and nice eyebrows around the edge.Looked very good with varnished gunwhales and got lots of compliments.The sheerline is very sweet.
The problem with the fixed leeboards proved Mr Bolger right immediately so i did fix them.They were held in place by wood brackets thru the external chine. I removed the aft one and had comma shaped metal catches cut from heavy steel. I put a pivot bolt thru the chine and they swung forward and captured the boards. Worked well and I was able to swing and hold up the boards aft.
The bigger problem was with the rudder in shallow water. It drew about 30 inches and the post ran thru the bottom of the hull in the aft self draing well. The problem was to remove the rudder you needed the full length of rudder plus post say 5 feet and it was very tough to get back in needing swimming. The rudder would have to be moved abaft the mizzen to make a true shallow water sailer.
I did occasionally row her, not too bad with the boards up but she really needed a motor where I sailed her because of the albeit weak tidal flows in Florida. Shoulda listened to Mr Bolger and built a Black Skimmer.
I shaped the foils nicely , they are pretty thick, steered with a hiking stick, nice feel.Put a lot of time into the foils with a plane.
About the staysail, what can i say, she is a narrow boat not a lot of room, maybe a drifter better.
She was a niche boat designed to be" the smallest fit to keep the sea," he said but not really enough room to stay there. Unless you really want to go offshore for short trips and keep her on a mooring I think there are many more suitable designs.
Feel free to give me a call though if you want more info, days at 819 682 6805 , john.
The problem with the fixed leeboards proved Mr Bolger right immediately so i did fix them.They were held in place by wood brackets thru the external chine. I removed the aft one and had comma shaped metal catches cut from heavy steel. I put a pivot bolt thru the chine and they swung forward and captured the boards. Worked well and I was able to swing and hold up the boards aft.
The bigger problem was with the rudder in shallow water. It drew about 30 inches and the post ran thru the bottom of the hull in the aft self draing well. The problem was to remove the rudder you needed the full length of rudder plus post say 5 feet and it was very tough to get back in needing swimming. The rudder would have to be moved abaft the mizzen to make a true shallow water sailer.
I did occasionally row her, not too bad with the boards up but she really needed a motor where I sailed her because of the albeit weak tidal flows in Florida. Shoulda listened to Mr Bolger and built a Black Skimmer.
I shaped the foils nicely , they are pretty thick, steered with a hiking stick, nice feel.Put a lot of time into the foils with a plane.
About the staysail, what can i say, she is a narrow boat not a lot of room, maybe a drifter better.
She was a niche boat designed to be" the smallest fit to keep the sea," he said but not really enough room to stay there. Unless you really want to go offshore for short trips and keep her on a mooring I think there are many more suitable designs.
Feel free to give me a call though if you want more info, days at 819 682 6805 , john.