Re: Materials: Plywood and Epoxy
Neal,
i concur with Chuck that the epoxy is relatively similar so shop
around.
I will share some plywood experience with you.
I once built a Diablo out of luan ply. Do not do this. It looks
real
nice when built, but the interior core is very, very, absorbent and
eventually it will rot or delaminate from the inside out! I
discovered this in the middle of a 2 mile by 1/2 mile lake that was
50
feet deep! Fortunately, the epoxy and glass held the boat together
until I reached shore. a Layer of Epoxied glass is incredibly strong.
I also built a Nymph out of 1/4" AC ply. I then sheathed it in
glass set in polyesther resin. It is still going strong.
My repair to Diablo used AC ply and still more epoxy. It is very
solid after 7 years of misuse and neglect, but I cannot sell it as
most buyers do not trust any plywood not marked "Marine Plywood"
My current project is a Micro. I am using Marine Plywood
throughout. One advantage is that you never have to worry about what
is the good side or bad side, the disadvantage is the cost. Even
then, it will need to be sheathed to prevent delamination.
Good luck,
David Jost " back from the Green Mountains of Vermont where the
sailing is non-existant"
i concur with Chuck that the epoxy is relatively similar so shop
around.
I will share some plywood experience with you.
I once built a Diablo out of luan ply. Do not do this. It looks
real
nice when built, but the interior core is very, very, absorbent and
eventually it will rot or delaminate from the inside out! I
discovered this in the middle of a 2 mile by 1/2 mile lake that was
50
feet deep! Fortunately, the epoxy and glass held the boat together
until I reached shore. a Layer of Epoxied glass is incredibly strong.
I also built a Nymph out of 1/4" AC ply. I then sheathed it in
glass set in polyesther resin. It is still going strong.
My repair to Diablo used AC ply and still more epoxy. It is very
solid after 7 years of misuse and neglect, but I cannot sell it as
most buyers do not trust any plywood not marked "Marine Plywood"
My current project is a Micro. I am using Marine Plywood
throughout. One advantage is that you never have to worry about what
is the good side or bad side, the disadvantage is the cost. Even
then, it will need to be sheathed to prevent delamination.
Good luck,
David Jost " back from the Green Mountains of Vermont where the
sailing is non-existant"
Neal,
As one newcomer to another, welcome to a fun-filled hobby (translate
"semi-obsession" in my case). There is a wealth of info in this group.
My 1.5 cents worth or what I have learned so far: 1.) Be sure and follow
both the narrative instructions AND the plans. Sounds very basic, but I
have to cut out the #3 bulkhead on my Pointy Skiff #1 because I did not
bevel its edges before assembly. DUH!! Not mentioned in the narrative;
beautiful full-sized bevels laid out in the plans. 2.) You will make
mistakes; this is why I'm building PS#1 with ACX plywood. 3.) Not all ACX
is created equal. Pick over the stack; get as few end grain voids as
possible. Fill the end grain voids with epoxy. 4.) I'm using marine
adhesive 3M 5200 and PL Premium polyurethane for glues. These are overkill.
There are experts in the group when it comes to epoxies; take their advice.
Systems Three Resins in Seattle has a $5.00 publication, "The Epoxy Book"
get a copy and read it. I have extras; Tracy O'Brien (another stitch/glue
designer) provides one free with each set of plans purchased. 5.) Don't
make your emails too long, ha ha.
Enjoy
Jim Chamberlin, cutting out a bulkhead - RATS.
As one newcomer to another, welcome to a fun-filled hobby (translate
"semi-obsession" in my case). There is a wealth of info in this group.
My 1.5 cents worth or what I have learned so far: 1.) Be sure and follow
both the narrative instructions AND the plans. Sounds very basic, but I
have to cut out the #3 bulkhead on my Pointy Skiff #1 because I did not
bevel its edges before assembly. DUH!! Not mentioned in the narrative;
beautiful full-sized bevels laid out in the plans. 2.) You will make
mistakes; this is why I'm building PS#1 with ACX plywood. 3.) Not all ACX
is created equal. Pick over the stack; get as few end grain voids as
possible. Fill the end grain voids with epoxy. 4.) I'm using marine
adhesive 3M 5200 and PL Premium polyurethane for glues. These are overkill.
There are experts in the group when it comes to epoxies; take their advice.
Systems Three Resins in Seattle has a $5.00 publication, "The Epoxy Book"
get a copy and read it. I have extras; Tracy O'Brien (another stitch/glue
designer) provides one free with each set of plans purchased. 5.) Don't
make your emails too long, ha ha.
Enjoy
Jim Chamberlin, cutting out a bulkhead - RATS.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Neal Scogin [mailto:scogin1@...]
> Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 1:07 AM
> To: Bolger e-group
> Subject: [bolger] Materials: Plywood and Epoxy
>
>
> Hi all:
>
> I am considering building an Oldshoe and while I am waiting for that
> e-group to get back into business I have a couple of materials questions
> which I think are relevant to the whole group:
>
> 1. Several years ago I considered building a plywood boat and investigated
> materials. I would be interested in hearing what the thinking of the
> members of the e-groups is regarding the options that are available.
> Things like cost, availability, characteristics and relative ease of use,
> etc. are the things I would like to hear about.
>
> 2. I assume that most of the group uses epoxy. I am interested in
> obtaining similar information regarding sources of epoxy.
>
> Neal Scogin
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
Neal:
Is there any particular ply native to where you live? Here in Florida
-- maybe because it's produced regionally -- it's possible to find
good quality BC or AC pine ply, sometime near marine quality in terms
of voids. I like it better than AC fir because the C side is usually
devoid of knot holes or at least the knots are still in place and
hence finishes more easily. The BC is also cheaper than AC fir. It's
heavier than fir, but also has less of a checking problem.
As for epoxy, I'm partial to Fiberglass Coatings, Inc., products (go
to www.fgci.com). Prices start of $30.50 a gallon and they ship. Make
sure you specify plastic containers or you may get it in paint cans
-- not fun. They make a 1:1 that's a good general purpose and can be
mixed from 1:2 to 2:1 and still harden (one way will be more
flexible, the other harder....). And I've learned this week if you
mix and apply it on a nice, sunny 95 degree Florida day, it will
completely cure in about two hours....
Gary Blankenship
Tallahassee, FL
Is there any particular ply native to where you live? Here in Florida
-- maybe because it's produced regionally -- it's possible to find
good quality BC or AC pine ply, sometime near marine quality in terms
of voids. I like it better than AC fir because the C side is usually
devoid of knot holes or at least the knots are still in place and
hence finishes more easily. The BC is also cheaper than AC fir. It's
heavier than fir, but also has less of a checking problem.
As for epoxy, I'm partial to Fiberglass Coatings, Inc., products (go
to www.fgci.com). Prices start of $30.50 a gallon and they ship. Make
sure you specify plastic containers or you may get it in paint cans
-- not fun. They make a 1:1 that's a good general purpose and can be
mixed from 1:2 to 2:1 and still harden (one way will be more
flexible, the other harder....). And I've learned this week if you
mix and apply it on a nice, sunny 95 degree Florida day, it will
completely cure in about two hours....
Gary Blankenship
Tallahassee, FL
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Neal Scogin" <scogin1@f...> wrote:
> Hi all:
>
> I am considering building an Oldshoe and while I am waiting for that
> e-group to get back into business I have a couple of materials
questions
> which I think are relevant to the whole group:
>
> 1. Several years ago I considered building a plywood boat and
investigated
> materials. I would be interested in hearing what the thinking of
the
> members of the e-groups is regarding the options that are
available.
> Things like cost, availability, characteristics and relative ease
of use,
> etc. are the things I would like to hear about.
>
> 2. I assume that most of the group uses epoxy. I am interested in
> obtaining similar information regarding sources of epoxy.
>
> Neal Scogin
Hi all:
I am considering building an Oldshoe and while I am waiting for that
e-group to get back into business I have a couple of materials questions
which I think are relevant to the whole group:
1. Several years ago I considered building a plywood boat and investigated
materials. I would be interested in hearing what the thinking of the
members of the e-groups is regarding the options that are available.
Things like cost, availability, characteristics and relative ease of use,
etc. are the things I would like to hear about.
2. I assume that most of the group uses epoxy. I am interested in
obtaining similar information regarding sources of epoxy.
Neal Scogin
I am considering building an Oldshoe and while I am waiting for that
e-group to get back into business I have a couple of materials questions
which I think are relevant to the whole group:
1. Several years ago I considered building a plywood boat and investigated
materials. I would be interested in hearing what the thinking of the
members of the e-groups is regarding the options that are available.
Things like cost, availability, characteristics and relative ease of use,
etc. are the things I would like to hear about.
2. I assume that most of the group uses epoxy. I am interested in
obtaining similar information regarding sources of epoxy.
Neal Scogin