Re: [bolger] Materials: Plywood and Epoxy
Jim,
I suddenly realize you may have no gap, that the side is
glued flat to the unbeveled edge.
Still going on the assumption that cutting it out might be
an ugly job that could create other problems for the thin
plywood, it's worth remembering that except for the precut
parts all fitting together, the shape of these boats is not
all that critical.
If the boat is a little wider aft of #3, no matter. If the
transom isn't on yet, you might try to see just how far you
can bend your sides aft of #3 without creating a hard spot
there or an extremely distorted shape between #2 and #3.
Maybe all you have to do is pad out the transom frame a bit.
If the transom's in and the overall shape not too bad, you
might only have to adjust the dimensions of the after flat.
Trying to be helpful,
Mark
Jim Chamberlin RCSIS wrote:
I suddenly realize you may have no gap, that the side is
glued flat to the unbeveled edge.
Still going on the assumption that cutting it out might be
an ugly job that could create other problems for the thin
plywood, it's worth remembering that except for the precut
parts all fitting together, the shape of these boats is not
all that critical.
If the boat is a little wider aft of #3, no matter. If the
transom isn't on yet, you might try to see just how far you
can bend your sides aft of #3 without creating a hard spot
there or an extremely distorted shape between #2 and #3.
Maybe all you have to do is pad out the transom frame a bit.
If the transom's in and the overall shape not too bad, you
might only have to adjust the dimensions of the after flat.
Trying to be helpful,
Mark
Jim Chamberlin RCSIS wrote:
>
> Neal,
> As one newcomer to another, welcome to a fun-filled hobby (translate
> "semi-obsession" in my case). There is a wealth of info in this group.
>
> My 1.5 cents worth or what I have learned so far: 1.) Be sure and follow
> both the narrative instructions AND the plans. Sounds very basic, but I
> have to cut out the #3 bulkhead on my Pointy Skiff #1 because I did not
> bevel its edges before assembly. DUH!! Not mentioned in the narrative;
> beautiful full-sized bevels laid out in the plans. 2.) You will make
> mistakes; this is why I'm building PS#1 with ACX plywood. 3.) Not all ACX
> is created equal. Pick over the stack; get as few end grain voids as
> possible. Fill the end grain voids with epoxy. 4.) I'm using marine
> adhesive 3M 5200 and PL Premium polyurethane for glues. These are overkill.
> There are experts in the group when it comes to epoxies; take their advice.
> Systems Three Resins in Seattle has a $5.00 publication, "The Epoxy Book"
> get a copy and read it. I have extras; Tracy O'Brien (another stitch/glue
> designer) provides one free with each set of plans purchased. 5.) Don't
> make your emails too long, ha ha.
>
> Enjoy
>
> Jim Chamberlin, cutting out a bulkhead - RATS.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Neal Scogin [mailto:scogin1@...]
> > Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 1:07 AM
> > To: Bolger e-group
> > Subject: [bolger] Materials: Plywood and Epoxy
> >
> >
> > Hi all:
> >
> > I am considering building an Oldshoe and while I am waiting for that
> > e-group to get back into business I have a couple of materials questions
> > which I think are relevant to the whole group:
> >
> > 1. Several years ago I considered building a plywood boat and investigated
> > materials. I would be interested in hearing what the thinking of the
> > members of the e-groups is regarding the options that are available.
> > Things like cost, availability, characteristics and relative ease of use,
> > etc. are the things I would like to hear about.
> >
> > 2. I assume that most of the group uses epoxy. I am interested in
> > obtaining similar information regarding sources of epoxy.
> >
> > Neal Scogin
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing
> > - stay on topic
> > - use punctuation
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> > - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> >
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
Oh Jim,
If you haven't done it yet, you might fix your mistake more
easily than by cutting it out. The PL will fill a 3/8ths
gap, so just squirt some in there and smooth the fillet. Or:
fill the gap with thick epoxy and add a layer of tape.
Mark
Jim Chamberlin RCSIS wrote:
If you haven't done it yet, you might fix your mistake more
easily than by cutting it out. The PL will fill a 3/8ths
gap, so just squirt some in there and smooth the fillet. Or:
fill the gap with thick epoxy and add a layer of tape.
Mark
Jim Chamberlin RCSIS wrote:
>
> Neal,
> As one newcomer to another, welcome to a fun-filled hobby (translate
> "semi-obsession" in my case). There is a wealth of info in this group.
>
> My 1.5 cents worth or what I have learned so far: 1.) Be sure and follow
> both the narrative instructions AND the plans. Sounds very basic, but I
> have to cut out the #3 bulkhead on my Pointy Skiff #1 because I did not
> bevel its edges before assembly. DUH!! Not mentioned in the narrative;
> beautiful full-sized bevels laid out in the plans. 2.) You will make
> mistakes; this is why I'm building PS#1 with ACX plywood. 3.) Not all ACX
> is created equal. Pick over the stack; get as few end grain voids as
> possible. Fill the end grain voids with epoxy. 4.) I'm using marine
> adhesive 3M 5200 and PL Premium polyurethane for glues. These are overkill.
> There are experts in the group when it comes to epoxies; take their advice.
> Systems Three Resins in Seattle has a $5.00 publication, "The Epoxy Book"
> get a copy and read it. I have extras; Tracy O'Brien (another stitch/glue
> designer) provides one free with each set of plans purchased. 5.) Don't
> make your emails too long, ha ha.
>
> Enjoy
>
> Jim Chamberlin, cutting out a bulkhead - RATS.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Neal Scogin [mailto:scogin1@...]
> > Sent: Friday, August 11, 2000 1:07 AM
> > To: Bolger e-group
> > Subject: [bolger] Materials: Plywood and Epoxy
> >
> >
> > Hi all:
> >
> > I am considering building an Oldshoe and while I am waiting for that
> > e-group to get back into business I have a couple of materials questions
> > which I think are relevant to the whole group:
> >
> > 1. Several years ago I considered building a plywood boat and investigated
> > materials. I would be interested in hearing what the thinking of the
> > members of the e-groups is regarding the options that are available.
> > Things like cost, availability, characteristics and relative ease of use,
> > etc. are the things I would like to hear about.
> >
> > 2. I assume that most of the group uses epoxy. I am interested in
> > obtaining similar information regarding sources of epoxy.
> >
> > Neal Scogin
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing
> > - stay on topic
> > - use punctuation
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> > - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> >
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
Neal:
Here is my opinion. You WILL get a lot of disagreement:
Go to the lumberyard and get Douglas Fir plywood; either AB or AC. Pick
through to get the good sheets. Quality varies a lot, so you may have to go
to a different yard, or come back in week or two. Doug Fir is rot
resistant, and has a high strength to weight ratio. It's only vice is it
tends to check when exposed to weather. To remedy this, use MDO, or cover
with light cloth and resin.
All epoxy is all pretty much the same (there are some additives, and
different mix ratios) so buy the cheapest you can find. www.raka.com is a
good one.
Chuck
Here is my opinion. You WILL get a lot of disagreement:
Go to the lumberyard and get Douglas Fir plywood; either AB or AC. Pick
through to get the good sheets. Quality varies a lot, so you may have to go
to a different yard, or come back in week or two. Doug Fir is rot
resistant, and has a high strength to weight ratio. It's only vice is it
tends to check when exposed to weather. To remedy this, use MDO, or cover
with light cloth and resin.
All epoxy is all pretty much the same (there are some additives, and
different mix ratios) so buy the cheapest you can find. www.raka.com is a
good one.
Chuck
> Hi all:
>
> I am considering building an Oldshoe and while I am waiting for that
> e-group to get back into business I have a couple of materials questions
> which I think are relevant to the whole group:
>
> 1. Several years ago I considered building a plywood boat and investigated
> materials. I would be interested in hearing what the thinking of the
> members of the e-groups is regarding the options that are available.
> Things like cost, availability, characteristics and relative ease of use,
> etc. are the things I would like to hear about.
>
> 2. I assume that most of the group uses epoxy. I am interested in
> obtaining similar information regarding sources of epoxy.
>
> Neal Scogin
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
>