Re: Micro bottom rudder bearing
I made the wooden bottom bearing, twice. They lasted a season but did not look good so when the second one looked iffy I went to metal. I used the old one for a form and cast an aluminum replacement and never touched it again.
MylesJ
On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 9:11 AM, alefoot <dgw@...> wrote:
error when I started writing it, saying I recalled plywood, then as I
went on and actually checked the drawings while composing the email I
confirm, the bottom bearing is made of wooden cleats. I used plain
old Home Depot framing lumber, probably Fir wood.
>I agree, the bottom bearing is wood cleats. My email of 8:39 was in
>
>
> > Check the Note#44 on the builders' key that comes with the plans. I
> > recall that Phil Bolger specified that the bottom rudder bearing be
> > made from plywood, probably 1/2 inch thick. Does anybody have the
> > builders key handy, and can they tell us what PCB wrote for note#44?
>
> The key specifies wood, rather than ply;
> #43 "...lower bearing formed by two 3/4" x about 2" x about 12" cleats shaped to fit rounded slot in rudder...."
> #44 "Top rudder bearing from 3/4" x 5 1/2" x1'3"."
>
error when I started writing it, saying I recalled plywood, then as I
went on and actually checked the drawings while composing the email I
confirm, the bottom bearing is made of wooden cleats. I used plain
old Home Depot framing lumber, probably Fir wood.
> Check the Note#44 on the builders' key that comes with the plans. IThe key specifies wood, rather than ply;
> recall that Phil Bolger specified that the bottom rudder bearing be
> made from plywood, probably 1/2 inch thick. Does anybody have the
> builders key handy, and can they tell us what PCB wrote for note#44?
#43 "...lower bearing formed by two 3/4" x about 2" x about 12" cleats shaped to fit rounded slot in rudder...."
#44 "Top rudder bearing from 3/4" x 5 1/2" x1'3"."
On Sat, May 21, 2011 at 7:05 PM, Rod <rod_cahill@...> wrote:
recall that Phil Bolger specified that the bottom rudder bearing be
made from plywood, probably 1/2 inch thick. Does anybody have the
builders key handy, and can they tell us what PCB wrote for note#44?
I know the temptation is always to make things stronger, hence the
builders' "improvements" to stainless steel etc.. I can think of
nothing wrong with using stainless steel for the lower rudder bearing,
except that it is almost certainly too strong and hence a waste of
money and time. Remember that this is a Cat Yawl rig, and the
stresses on the rudder are not gigantic. You can actually steer with
the mizzen sail. Also, the rudder is protected from impacts by the
keel fin. I am 100% certain that following the Bolger plans exactly
as written, your Micro will function just fine.
My recollection of the "per plans" bottom rudder bearing is that it
was made from two pieces of "2x4" lumber, cut and shaped to grab the
rudder post through holes in the rudder blade, and these pieces
attached to the keel with screws.
See also the plan sheet.
Also, here is a pencil sketch...
http://hallman.org/bolger/Micro-lower-bearing.jpg
The rudder post passes through a hole in the bottom of the boat loose,
not touching. The rudder is connected into bearings just at the top
and the bottom.
>Check the Note#44 on the builders' key that comes with the plans. I
>
>
> Keel is all done except final fairing and filling of my mistakes with glue. I have also now made rudder/tiller but have not made bottom bearing yet as I have no details for it and am enquiring as to other successful bearing setups. Middle bearing, 2 inch hole through hull, and upper bearing, are easy but I would like some detail for bottom bearing. I see it on the plans but don't see the width or thickness? Is it made from ply too?
recall that Phil Bolger specified that the bottom rudder bearing be
made from plywood, probably 1/2 inch thick. Does anybody have the
builders key handy, and can they tell us what PCB wrote for note#44?
I know the temptation is always to make things stronger, hence the
builders' "improvements" to stainless steel etc.. I can think of
nothing wrong with using stainless steel for the lower rudder bearing,
except that it is almost certainly too strong and hence a waste of
money and time. Remember that this is a Cat Yawl rig, and the
stresses on the rudder are not gigantic. You can actually steer with
the mizzen sail. Also, the rudder is protected from impacts by the
keel fin. I am 100% certain that following the Bolger plans exactly
as written, your Micro will function just fine.
My recollection of the "per plans" bottom rudder bearing is that it
was made from two pieces of "2x4" lumber, cut and shaped to grab the
rudder post through holes in the rudder blade, and these pieces
attached to the keel with screws.
See also the plan sheet.
Also, here is a pencil sketch...
http://hallman.org/bolger/Micro-lower-bearing.jpg
The rudder post passes through a hole in the bottom of the boat loose,
not touching. The rudder is connected into bearings just at the top
and the bottom.
Rod,
The shaft of my Chebacco 25 rudder is 32mm stainless round bar. In the end is bored a 13mm hole (axially). This fits over a 12mm bolt end that is sticking out from the bottom bearing holder. In my case this is a 65x10mm stainless bar. It is heavier than you need because I have 150mm of overhang past the end of the keel due to the arrangement of my semi-balanced rudder.
A 10mm thick circle of breadboard (Polyethylene) acts as a washer between the bottom of the rudder and the 65x10mm bar.
I did something interesting (at least to me) with the upper bearings. I had a hole in the bottom of the boat and a square tube going up to the place where the shaft exits. I greased the shaft, inserted it into place, sealed the top end (the boat was upside down) and poured epoxy mixed with 10% graphite into the space between square tube and shaft. I now have a bearing that extends from the bottom of the boat all the way up to the thwart. It is tight but the shaft turns easily due to the graphite. It should never leak water into the hull and should never wear out.
I got the idea from an article on the net about repairing damaged rudder shaft tubes with graphite epoxy in f/g boats.
I have some photos at:
http://sites.google.com/site/warrandytewoodenboat/Warrandyte-Wooden-Boats/file-cabinet/foil-section-rudder
I will put some more photos up in the next days of the graphite bearing.
Andrew
The shaft of my Chebacco 25 rudder is 32mm stainless round bar. In the end is bored a 13mm hole (axially). This fits over a 12mm bolt end that is sticking out from the bottom bearing holder. In my case this is a 65x10mm stainless bar. It is heavier than you need because I have 150mm of overhang past the end of the keel due to the arrangement of my semi-balanced rudder.
A 10mm thick circle of breadboard (Polyethylene) acts as a washer between the bottom of the rudder and the 65x10mm bar.
I did something interesting (at least to me) with the upper bearings. I had a hole in the bottom of the boat and a square tube going up to the place where the shaft exits. I greased the shaft, inserted it into place, sealed the top end (the boat was upside down) and poured epoxy mixed with 10% graphite into the space between square tube and shaft. I now have a bearing that extends from the bottom of the boat all the way up to the thwart. It is tight but the shaft turns easily due to the graphite. It should never leak water into the hull and should never wear out.
I got the idea from an article on the net about repairing damaged rudder shaft tubes with graphite epoxy in f/g boats.
I have some photos at:
http://sites.google.com/site/warrandytewoodenboat/Warrandyte-Wooden-Boats/file-cabinet/foil-section-rudder
I will put some more photos up in the next days of the graphite bearing.
Andrew
Like Dennis, I also used a bar of stainless steel, about 5 or 6 mm thick. I bolted the bar through the keel (bolts fit thru the free-flooding compartment in the end of the keel). I used a plastic cutting board and a hole-saw to make my rudder bearings. That plastic doesn't wear out!
Bill, in Texas
Bill, in Texas
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dennislancaster36" <dennislancaster36@...> wrote:
>
> My rudder shoe on my Old Shoe is made from 1/4" thick stainless steel flat stock. My plans called for a solid wood shoe. Just did not feel confident that a wood shoe would stand up to long term usage. Peace of mind for me.
>
> Regards,
>
> Dennis
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "prairiedog2332" <arvent@> wrote:
> >
> > Rod,
> >
> > There is a photo showing one method at the bottom of this article. I
> > believe it was made from stainless steel - the same as the rudder post
> > on this build.
> >
> > I am quite certain plywood would not be a good choice.
> >
> >http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM1999/articles/micro/index.htm
> >
> > Nels
> >
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Rod" <rod_cahill@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Keel is all done except final fairing and filling of my mistakes with
> > glue. I have also now made rudder/tiller but have not made bottom
> > bearing yet as I have no details for it and am enquiring as to other
> > successful bearing setups. Middle bearing, 2 inch hole through hull, and
> > upper bearing, are easy but I would like some detail for bottom bearing.
> > I see it on the plans but don't see the width or thickness? Is it made
> > from ply too?
> > >
> >
>
My rudder shoe on my Old Shoe is made from 1/4" thick stainless steel flat stock. My plans called for a solid wood shoe. Just did not feel confident that a wood shoe would stand up to long term usage. Peace of mind for me.
Regards,
Dennis
Regards,
Dennis
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "prairiedog2332" <arvent@...> wrote:
>
> Rod,
>
> There is a photo showing one method at the bottom of this article. I
> believe it was made from stainless steel - the same as the rudder post
> on this build.
>
> I am quite certain plywood would not be a good choice.
>
>http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM1999/articles/micro/index.htm
>
> Nels
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Rod" <rod_cahill@> wrote:
> >
> > Keel is all done except final fairing and filling of my mistakes with
> glue. I have also now made rudder/tiller but have not made bottom
> bearing yet as I have no details for it and am enquiring as to other
> successful bearing setups. Middle bearing, 2 inch hole through hull, and
> upper bearing, are easy but I would like some detail for bottom bearing.
> I see it on the plans but don't see the width or thickness? Is it made
> from ply too?
> >
>
Rod,
There is a photo showing one method at the bottom of this article. I
believe it was made from stainless steel - the same as the rudder post
on this build.
I am quite certain plywood would not be a good choice.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM1999/articles/micro/index.htm
Nels
There is a photo showing one method at the bottom of this article. I
believe it was made from stainless steel - the same as the rudder post
on this build.
I am quite certain plywood would not be a good choice.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM1999/articles/micro/index.htm
Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Rod" <rod_cahill@...> wrote:
>
> Keel is all done except final fairing and filling of my mistakes with
glue. I have also now made rudder/tiller but have not made bottom
bearing yet as I have no details for it and am enquiring as to other
successful bearing setups. Middle bearing, 2 inch hole through hull, and
upper bearing, are easy but I would like some detail for bottom bearing.
I see it on the plans but don't see the width or thickness? Is it made
from ply too?
>
Keel is all done except final fairing and filling of my mistakes with glue. I have also now made rudder/tiller but have not made bottom bearing yet as I have no details for it and am enquiring as to other successful bearing setups. Middle bearing, 2 inch hole through hull, and upper bearing, are easy but I would like some detail for bottom bearing. I see it on the plans but don't see the width or thickness? Is it made from ply too?