Re: [bolger] Re: Rot prophylaxis
Thanks, Frank. That's encouraging. I put in a bunch
of holes to drain out the water, dried it out with a
shop vac, patched the hole in the bottom (plus all the
drain holes). I have two holes through the sole from
above to close. I am going to put in some borax, then
do as you suggest. Sam
--- sanmi <sanmi@...> wrote:
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
of holes to drain out the water, dried it out with a
shop vac, patched the hole in the bottom (plus all the
drain holes). I have two holes through the sole from
above to close. I am going to put in some borax, then
do as you suggest. Sam
--- sanmi <sanmi@...> wrote:
> Anyway, I know there is some disagreement about__________________________________
> this, but I'm with
> Dave Carnell when he says that there is something
> about epoxy coating
> that stops rot.
>
> Sam, I'd say empty it, patch it up and go boating.
> :-)
>
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
Sorry to come in on this late, but I read the whole thread with
interest, since I own an older (1994) AS-29. I've spent some time
working on areas that are constantly submerged during the season, and
at least on my boat, the epoxy and 9 oz sheathing isn't completely
waterproof, even where it has astonishing adhesion. The wood gets
damp, yet the only place that I've found rot in the plywood was in
one or two areas where the wood was crushed from impact, and there
only very little. All surfaces are thoroughly coated with epoxy.
I'm in the middle of widening the slots for the bilgeboards and the
pieces I cut out had some dampness, but they were off-the-shelf
clean. As Peter L noted last year, I have found some discoloration
around the stainless steel fasteners on the sides of the hull, but
believe there is another name for that.
I've seen some plywood skiffs with rot problems (I grew up in South
Louisiana), but those were usually in the chine interfaces. My
theory is the chines have plenty stress and the panels can flex to
let air in. On Alisa, I have spent a lot of time on the chines but
haven't seen that kind of problem.
Anyway, I know there is some disagreement about this, but I'm with
Dave Carnell when he says that there is something about epoxy coating
that stops rot.
Sam, I'd say empty it, patch it up and go boating. :-)
Frank San Miguel
Wilmington, DE
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
wrote:
interest, since I own an older (1994) AS-29. I've spent some time
working on areas that are constantly submerged during the season, and
at least on my boat, the epoxy and 9 oz sheathing isn't completely
waterproof, even where it has astonishing adhesion. The wood gets
damp, yet the only place that I've found rot in the plywood was in
one or two areas where the wood was crushed from impact, and there
only very little. All surfaces are thoroughly coated with epoxy.
I'm in the middle of widening the slots for the bilgeboards and the
pieces I cut out had some dampness, but they were off-the-shelf
clean. As Peter L noted last year, I have found some discoloration
around the stainless steel fasteners on the sides of the hull, but
believe there is another name for that.
I've seen some plywood skiffs with rot problems (I grew up in South
Louisiana), but those were usually in the chine interfaces. My
theory is the chines have plenty stress and the panels can flex to
let air in. On Alisa, I have spent a lot of time on the chines but
haven't seen that kind of problem.
Anyway, I know there is some disagreement about this, but I'm with
Dave Carnell when he says that there is something about epoxy coating
that stops rot.
Sam, I'd say empty it, patch it up and go boating. :-)
Frank San Miguel
Wilmington, DE
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
wrote:
> As those of you who have seen the plans for Topaz (and
> Sitka Explorer, Tahiti, etc) are aware, the boat has a
> 1/4 skin over a false 'nose' section, application of
> which turns the boat from a sharpie into a deadrise
> hull, forward. I managed to drop the boat off the
> trailer (don't ask) last time I put her in, puncturing
> the skin into the otherwise sealed nose.
> Interestingly, although there is a lot of bouyancy in
> the nose, almost none of it is below the waterline,
> even with the nose puncuted, so I did not even notice
> the hole until I pulled her out--it had little or no
> effect on trim or performance.
> The hole is an easy patch, once the area has
> dried thouroughly, but because of the shape of the
> nose (not mine, Topazes)I will never be able to ensure
> that I have removed the last drop of water from this
> section. I am concerned about sealing this area back
> up with even a small amount of water in it, becasue of
> the posibility of rot. The nose (on my boat, at
> least) is not foam filled, just an empty chamber
> completely seatled off with epoxy-coated plywood. Any
> thoughts on what I could put up there prior to
> re-sealing to prevent rot? I could use glycol, I
> guess, but I'd rather not have liquid up there. Any
> dry chemicals that might work? Or is Peter's
> groundhog available for close-quarters sponge duty?
> Sam
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
>http://sbc.yahoo.com
--- Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...> wrote:
and is consistent with PCB:
http://www.durable-wood.com/treated/index.php
quoting:
"... mixtures of borate and glycols are used to treat sound wood left
in place during repair of decay problems. The glycol helps the borate
to penetrate dry wood, arresting the activity of any fungus which
contacts it."
Glycol is used to help transport the poison [in this case, borate] to
the wood fibers.
>The following website seems credible
> I suggested it to Phil Bolger, and he replied
> we would not recommend glycol on plywood."
and is consistent with PCB:
http://www.durable-wood.com/treated/index.php
quoting:
"... mixtures of borate and glycols are used to treat sound wood left
in place during repair of decay problems. The glycol helps the borate
to penetrate dry wood, arresting the activity of any fungus which
contacts it."
Glycol is used to help transport the poison [in this case, borate] to
the wood fibers.
I had this same interesting suggestion made to me when
I was building Topaz, by Dave Carnell, who, in
addition to bing a boatbuider and hell of a nice guy,
is also a chemical engineer. I suggested it to Phil
Bolger, and he replied "With respect to Dave Carnell,
we would not recommend glycol on plywood." He gave no
explanation. Like Hal, I would like to know--does
anyone have long-term experience with the effects of
glycol or either plywood or epoxy? Sam
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
I was building Topaz, by Dave Carnell, who, in
addition to bing a boatbuider and hell of a nice guy,
is also a chemical engineer. I suggested it to Phil
Bolger, and he replied "With respect to Dave Carnell,
we would not recommend glycol on plywood." He gave no
explanation. Like Hal, I would like to know--does
anyone have long-term experience with the effects of
glycol or either plywood or epoxy? Sam
> On Friday, June 20, 2003, at 03:02 PM, chodges31711__________________________________
> wrote:
>
> > A little antifreeze would be insurance against
> future rot.
> > It would seekout and travel to the same places
> that a little liquid
> Sounds good but... What is the long term effect of
> antifreeze
> on plywood?
>
> hal
>
>
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
On Friday, June 20, 2003, at 03:02 PM, chodges31711 wrote:
on plywood?
hal
> A little antifreeze would be insurance against future rot.Sounds good but... What is the long term effect of antifreeze
> It would seekout and travel to the same places that a little liquid
> water would go to. If the water had a few ounces of antifreeze
> waiting when it got there, future rot might be held at bay while the
> crack was small and unnoticed.
>
> Just a theory.
>
> Charles
on plywood?
hal
With Piper Cub struts there is a procedure to fill the strut with
linseed oil, pour out the excess and seal it to prevent rust on the
inside. A little antifreeze would be insurance against future rot.
It would seekout and travel to the same places that a little liquid
water would go to. If the water had a few ounces of antifreeze
waiting when it got there, future rot might be held at bay while the
crack was small and unnoticed.
Just a theory.
Charles
linseed oil, pour out the excess and seal it to prevent rust on the
inside. A little antifreeze would be insurance against future rot.
It would seekout and travel to the same places that a little liquid
water would go to. If the water had a few ounces of antifreeze
waiting when it got there, future rot might be held at bay while the
crack was small and unnoticed.
Just a theory.
Charles
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
wrote:
appropriate notches to recieve the lead ballast.No flooding,no
draining,no chipping of exposed plywood edges,no fear of rocky
bottoms or misunderstandings with trailers and no bleeding zebra
mussels to start a rapidly expanding zebra farm.........and that is
just the beginning :-)
Peter Lenihan, builder of LESTAT, a Bolger Micro and Queen of the
small boat fleet..........
wrote:
> How do Miconauts handle marine growth in the voids?Go with solid 2X2 mahogany laminated into the same profile with
> Sam
appropriate notches to recieve the lead ballast.No flooding,no
draining,no chipping of exposed plywood edges,no fear of rocky
bottoms or misunderstandings with trailers and no bleeding zebra
mussels to start a rapidly expanding zebra farm.........and that is
just the beginning :-)
Peter Lenihan, builder of LESTAT, a Bolger Micro and Queen of the
small boat fleet..........
I would epoxy coat them, too, but at least they can
drain and dry, unlike the Topaz-type nose. I was
amazed at how little difference to trim flooding of
the nose makes--This curwater area could also be made
to drain and flood without much affecting perfomance.
How do Miconauts handle marine growth in the voids?
Sam
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
drain and dry, unlike the Topaz-type nose. I was
amazed at how little difference to trim flooding of
the nose makes--This curwater area could also be made
to drain and flood without much affecting perfomance.
How do Miconauts handle marine growth in the voids?
Sam
> Although Micro doesn't have a cutwater,__________________________________
> it does have 'hollow' voids in the
> fin 'keel' that are underwater.
>
> PCB calls for drain holes and air holes
> in these voids, so the space can flood
> and drain, with Micro.
>
> Seems like a rot spot, but apparently not
> a big enough worry to bother PCB.
>
> I am leaning towards coating the inside of
> the Micro 'keel' voids with epoxy just to be
> conservative.
>
>
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
--- Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
it does have 'hollow' voids in the
fin 'keel' that are underwater.
PCB calls for drain holes and air holes
in these voids, so the space can flood
and drain, with Micro.
Seems like a rot spot, but apparently not
a big enough worry to bother PCB.
I am leaning towards coating the inside of
the Micro 'keel' voids with epoxy just to be
conservative.
> I got the strong impression from PB&FAlthough Micro doesn't have a cutwater,
> that they do not like inspection ports
> into this area;
it does have 'hollow' voids in the
fin 'keel' that are underwater.
PCB calls for drain holes and air holes
in these voids, so the space can flood
and drain, with Micro.
Seems like a rot spot, but apparently not
a big enough worry to bother PCB.
I am leaning towards coating the inside of
the Micro 'keel' voids with epoxy just to be
conservative.
Thanks to everyone for suggestions.
--- Peter Lenihan <ellengaest@...> wrote:
was too stupid to think of it myself. I talked to
Bolger about my concerns about this area, and he
recommended the method you describe on Windemere.
Unfortunately, I contacted PB AFTER I had sealed up
the area. I was a little timid to use 100% expanding
foam--it is so easy to overdo--and there are realy 6
semisealed areas of the nose which would have reqired
separate foaming. I was really concerned about rot.
I bugged PB&F again and SA called me and told me (I'm
condensing a little here) "Don't sweat it."
Everything inside is sealed up with epoxy on all
surfaces. I also talked to a West System tech who
said that the main problem with these sealed area was
changing outside air pressure, which caused the air in
the closed volume to try to expand or contract, making
hairline cracks which allow weepage, and thus rot. I
took his advice, and epoxied in a piece of copper
tubing through the bottom, and up to near the top of
the covered sections under the bow. The tubing has a
couple of pig-tail turns so that water can't find its
way down into the nose, but pressure is eqaulized.
While I don't like having an area I can't access, I
got the strong impression from PB&F that they do not
like inspection ports into this area; as most will be
aware PB has a strong disiclination from through-hulls
of any type. The nose skin is only 1/4", and that
makes me a little chary of ports as well.
I guess holes and hairdryers it is. Now if we
could just get a dry day or two on the East Coast. . .
.
Sam
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
--- Peter Lenihan <ellengaest@...> wrote:
>Peter, the plans were silent about this, and I
> You say yours is not foam filled.Is this per
> plans or your own
> doing? On Windermere,they call for the use of a
> combination of
> expanding foam and foam peanuts to completely fill
> this enclosed
> cavity.
was too stupid to think of it myself. I talked to
Bolger about my concerns about this area, and he
recommended the method you describe on Windemere.
Unfortunately, I contacted PB AFTER I had sealed up
the area. I was a little timid to use 100% expanding
foam--it is so easy to overdo--and there are realy 6
semisealed areas of the nose which would have reqired
separate foaming. I was really concerned about rot.
I bugged PB&F again and SA called me and told me (I'm
condensing a little here) "Don't sweat it."
Everything inside is sealed up with epoxy on all
surfaces. I also talked to a West System tech who
said that the main problem with these sealed area was
changing outside air pressure, which caused the air in
the closed volume to try to expand or contract, making
hairline cracks which allow weepage, and thus rot. I
took his advice, and epoxied in a piece of copper
tubing through the bottom, and up to near the top of
the covered sections under the bow. The tubing has a
couple of pig-tail turns so that water can't find its
way down into the nose, but pressure is eqaulized.
While I don't like having an area I can't access, I
got the strong impression from PB&F that they do not
like inspection ports into this area; as most will be
aware PB has a strong disiclination from through-hulls
of any type. The nose skin is only 1/4", and that
makes me a little chary of ports as well.
I guess holes and hairdryers it is. Now if we
could just get a dry day or two on the East Coast. . .
.
Sam
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
Personally, I like the idea of inspection ports between the cavity in question and the forward cockpit. You can open them periodically to dry out that otherwise sealed area. I have heard that foamed in areas tend to rot, and have seen rot in plastic boats where wood stringers were completely encased in fiberglass. However, if PCB recommends it, I would tend to accept that.
Chuck
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Lenihan
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2003 6:03 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Rot prophylaxis
Hi Sam,
Interesting problem and sorry to hear about your mishap.
Windermere also uses a similar device(fillet piece) to soften the
harshness of a sharpie bottom.
You say yours is not foam filled.Is this per plans or your own
doing? On Windermere,they call for the use of a combination of
expanding foam and foam peanuts to completely fill this enclosed
cavity.
How would I proceed if this was my boat? Incline the trailer
such that any water which may be "stored" in the cavity gathers at
one definite location.Take a drill and pierce a hole in the lowest
part of this "location".Don't be shy about your hole size either.A
one inch hole is easy enough to plug and seal up afterward........in
fact,it should be a "piece of cake" for a builder :-) and gives you
the chance to poke your finger in there to feel when it is dry.
Once the area has been left to air itself out( a few days if it
is really dry in your area),then a bit of epoxy well thickened and a
small piece of wood ought to do it for plugging the hole.This big
ugly blob can be easily sanded back into profile once the epoxy is
cured.
Perhaps,you may also wish to consider filling this cavity with
foam. This can be accomplished through the installation of a couple
of"inspection ports" through the hull bottom(underneath your forward
cockpit) and installed near the centerline,each side of
the "keel".Go slowly with the expanding foam. This is pretty much
what is called for regarding Windermeres fillet piece cavity.
Were the inside surfaces of your fillet pieces sealed with
epoxy before installing them? Again, nice inspection ports might
allow you to get in there with a brush-on-a-stick to seal those
surfaces.
Hope this makes sense and helps inspire you towards a happy
solution. Also, do not forget to post pictures of your TOPAZ....we
will not relent until you do so :-D
Oh,and the groundhog? Forget that evil little bastard,he
deserves much worse then being closed up inside your boat!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, with less then an hour to go before the end of the
grave yard shift,it is off to face the beast( it is sunny today!)
and address some final details before tomorrows flipping fun,from
along the shores of the St.Lawrence............
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Punch another, or several other holes at the extremes of the cavity,
then aim a hair dryer onto it for 4-5 hours?
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Glasscock [mailto:glasscocklanding@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 6:17 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Rot prophylaxis
As those of you who have seen the plans for Topaz (and
Sitka Explorer, Tahiti, etc) are aware, the boat has a
1/4 skin over a false 'nose' section, application of
which turns the boat from a sharpie into a deadrise
hull, forward. I managed to drop the boat off the
trailer (don't ask) last time I put her in, puncturing
the skin into the otherwise sealed nose.
Interestingly, although there is a lot of bouyancy in
the nose, almost none of it is below the waterline,
even with the nose puncuted, so I did not even notice
the hole until I pulled her out--it had little or no
effect on trim or performance.
The hole is an easy patch, once the area has
dried thouroughly, but because of the shape of the
nose (not mine, Topazes)I will never be able to ensure
that I have removed the last drop of water from this
section. I am concerned about sealing this area back
up with even a small amount of water in it, becasue of
the posibility of rot. The nose (on my boat, at
least) is not foam filled, just an empty chamber
completely seatled off with epoxy-coated plywood. Any
thoughts on what I could put up there prior to
re-sealing to prevent rot? I could use glycol, I
guess, but I'd rather not have liquid up there. Any
dry chemicals that might work? Or is Peter's
groundhog available for close-quarters sponge duty?
Sam
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=247865.3456232.4744922.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=1482387/R=0/SIG=16n9ir661/*http:/ads.x10.com/?bHlhaG9vaG0xLm
Rhd=1056061045%3eM=247865.3456232.4744922.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=17050657
91:HM/A=1482387/R=1=1056061045%3eM=247865.3456232.4744922.1261774/D=egro
upweb/S=1705065791:HM/A=1482387/R=2>
<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=247865.3456232.4744922.1261774/D=egrou
pmail/S=:HM/A=1482387/rand=109764736>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
then aim a hair dryer onto it for 4-5 hours?
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Glasscock [mailto:glasscocklanding@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 6:17 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Rot prophylaxis
As those of you who have seen the plans for Topaz (and
Sitka Explorer, Tahiti, etc) are aware, the boat has a
1/4 skin over a false 'nose' section, application of
which turns the boat from a sharpie into a deadrise
hull, forward. I managed to drop the boat off the
trailer (don't ask) last time I put her in, puncturing
the skin into the otherwise sealed nose.
Interestingly, although there is a lot of bouyancy in
the nose, almost none of it is below the waterline,
even with the nose puncuted, so I did not even notice
the hole until I pulled her out--it had little or no
effect on trim or performance.
The hole is an easy patch, once the area has
dried thouroughly, but because of the shape of the
nose (not mine, Topazes)I will never be able to ensure
that I have removed the last drop of water from this
section. I am concerned about sealing this area back
up with even a small amount of water in it, becasue of
the posibility of rot. The nose (on my boat, at
least) is not foam filled, just an empty chamber
completely seatled off with epoxy-coated plywood. Any
thoughts on what I could put up there prior to
re-sealing to prevent rot? I could use glycol, I
guess, but I'd rather not have liquid up there. Any
dry chemicals that might work? Or is Peter's
groundhog available for close-quarters sponge duty?
Sam
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=247865.3456232.4744922.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=1482387/R=0/SIG=16n9ir661/*http:/ads.x10.com/?bHlhaG9vaG0xLm
Rhd=1056061045%3eM=247865.3456232.4744922.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=17050657
91:HM/A=1482387/R=1=1056061045%3eM=247865.3456232.4744922.1261774/D=egro
upweb/S=1705065791:HM/A=1482387/R=2>
<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=247865.3456232.4744922.1261774/D=egrou
pmail/S=:HM/A=1482387/rand=109764736>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Sam,
Interesting problem and sorry to hear about your mishap.
Windermere also uses a similar device(fillet piece) to soften the
harshness of a sharpie bottom.
You say yours is not foam filled.Is this per plans or your own
doing? On Windermere,they call for the use of a combination of
expanding foam and foam peanuts to completely fill this enclosed
cavity.
How would I proceed if this was my boat? Incline the trailer
such that any water which may be "stored" in the cavity gathers at
one definite location.Take a drill and pierce a hole in the lowest
part of this "location".Don't be shy about your hole size either.A
one inch hole is easy enough to plug and seal up afterward........in
fact,it should be a "piece of cake" for a builder :-) and gives you
the chance to poke your finger in there to feel when it is dry.
Once the area has been left to air itself out( a few days if it
is really dry in your area),then a bit of epoxy well thickened and a
small piece of wood ought to do it for plugging the hole.This big
ugly blob can be easily sanded back into profile once the epoxy is
cured.
Perhaps,you may also wish to consider filling this cavity with
foam. This can be accomplished through the installation of a couple
of"inspection ports" through the hull bottom(underneath your forward
cockpit) and installed near the centerline,each side of
the "keel".Go slowly with the expanding foam. This is pretty much
what is called for regarding Windermeres fillet piece cavity.
Were the inside surfaces of your fillet pieces sealed with
epoxy before installing them? Again, nice inspection ports might
allow you to get in there with a brush-on-a-stick to seal those
surfaces.
Hope this makes sense and helps inspire you towards a happy
solution. Also, do not forget to post pictures of your TOPAZ....we
will not relent until you do so :-D
Oh,and the groundhog? Forget that evil little bastard,he
deserves much worse then being closed up inside your boat!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, with less then an hour to go before the end of the
grave yard shift,it is off to face the beast( it is sunny today!)
and address some final details before tomorrows flipping fun,from
along the shores of the St.Lawrence............
Interesting problem and sorry to hear about your mishap.
Windermere also uses a similar device(fillet piece) to soften the
harshness of a sharpie bottom.
You say yours is not foam filled.Is this per plans or your own
doing? On Windermere,they call for the use of a combination of
expanding foam and foam peanuts to completely fill this enclosed
cavity.
How would I proceed if this was my boat? Incline the trailer
such that any water which may be "stored" in the cavity gathers at
one definite location.Take a drill and pierce a hole in the lowest
part of this "location".Don't be shy about your hole size either.A
one inch hole is easy enough to plug and seal up afterward........in
fact,it should be a "piece of cake" for a builder :-) and gives you
the chance to poke your finger in there to feel when it is dry.
Once the area has been left to air itself out( a few days if it
is really dry in your area),then a bit of epoxy well thickened and a
small piece of wood ought to do it for plugging the hole.This big
ugly blob can be easily sanded back into profile once the epoxy is
cured.
Perhaps,you may also wish to consider filling this cavity with
foam. This can be accomplished through the installation of a couple
of"inspection ports" through the hull bottom(underneath your forward
cockpit) and installed near the centerline,each side of
the "keel".Go slowly with the expanding foam. This is pretty much
what is called for regarding Windermeres fillet piece cavity.
Were the inside surfaces of your fillet pieces sealed with
epoxy before installing them? Again, nice inspection ports might
allow you to get in there with a brush-on-a-stick to seal those
surfaces.
Hope this makes sense and helps inspire you towards a happy
solution. Also, do not forget to post pictures of your TOPAZ....we
will not relent until you do so :-D
Oh,and the groundhog? Forget that evil little bastard,he
deserves much worse then being closed up inside your boat!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, with less then an hour to go before the end of the
grave yard shift,it is off to face the beast( it is sunny today!)
and address some final details before tomorrows flipping fun,from
along the shores of the St.Lawrence............
As those of you who have seen the plans for Topaz (and
Sitka Explorer, Tahiti, etc) are aware, the boat has a
1/4 skin over a false 'nose' section, application of
which turns the boat from a sharpie into a deadrise
hull, forward. I managed to drop the boat off the
trailer (don't ask) last time I put her in, puncturing
the skin into the otherwise sealed nose.
Interestingly, although there is a lot of bouyancy in
the nose, almost none of it is below the waterline,
even with the nose puncuted, so I did not even notice
the hole until I pulled her out--it had little or no
effect on trim or performance.
The hole is an easy patch, once the area has
dried thouroughly, but because of the shape of the
nose (not mine, Topazes)I will never be able to ensure
that I have removed the last drop of water from this
section. I am concerned about sealing this area back
up with even a small amount of water in it, becasue of
the posibility of rot. The nose (on my boat, at
least) is not foam filled, just an empty chamber
completely seatled off with epoxy-coated plywood. Any
thoughts on what I could put up there prior to
re-sealing to prevent rot? I could use glycol, I
guess, but I'd rather not have liquid up there. Any
dry chemicals that might work? Or is Peter's
groundhog available for close-quarters sponge duty?
Sam
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
Sitka Explorer, Tahiti, etc) are aware, the boat has a
1/4 skin over a false 'nose' section, application of
which turns the boat from a sharpie into a deadrise
hull, forward. I managed to drop the boat off the
trailer (don't ask) last time I put her in, puncturing
the skin into the otherwise sealed nose.
Interestingly, although there is a lot of bouyancy in
the nose, almost none of it is below the waterline,
even with the nose puncuted, so I did not even notice
the hole until I pulled her out--it had little or no
effect on trim or performance.
The hole is an easy patch, once the area has
dried thouroughly, but because of the shape of the
nose (not mine, Topazes)I will never be able to ensure
that I have removed the last drop of water from this
section. I am concerned about sealing this area back
up with even a small amount of water in it, becasue of
the posibility of rot. The nose (on my boat, at
least) is not foam filled, just an empty chamber
completely seatled off with epoxy-coated plywood. Any
thoughts on what I could put up there prior to
re-sealing to prevent rot? I could use glycol, I
guess, but I'd rather not have liquid up there. Any
dry chemicals that might work? Or is Peter's
groundhog available for close-quarters sponge duty?
Sam
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
I know Bolger has designed the Fishcat, and the Bantam
tri. Does anyone know if he has any power multihull
cruisers? Any built? Thanks. Sam
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
tri. Does anyone know if he has any power multihull
cruisers? Any built? Thanks. Sam
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
--- Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
> Wow fellows! Could Spat go international? Across__________________________________
> Delaware Bay, then through the Jersey marshes, past
> quaint colonial towns with their open-air lawnmower
> markets. Through the Meadowlands brilliant with the
> light of a dozen landfill fires. Up the Hudson, the
> Erie, and across the lake. Out with the q flag,
> clear
> customs, then hoist the Maple Leaf and off to
> Kingston. I have wanted to sail away to Kingston
> ever
> since I was a kid and heard Harry Belafonte sing
> about
> "Kingston Town." Palm trees, rum punch, native
> girls,
> innocent yet knowing. Cracked conch and crawfish on
> Spat in the soft tropic twilight. Heaven! Amd your
> local customs, like this thing you call "beer." I
> know of it, by reputation. Sort of like soda pop, I
> am told, but with a pleasantly narcotic effect.
> Said
> to make men more virile and women more attractive.
> Sounds wonderful.
> I would love to come to the messabout. I
> suspect, as things look, that it ain't going to
> happen, but I'm not going to say no, 'cause its too
> much fun to dream about. I will take you up on the
> picture posting, as soon as I get some good shots.
> Thanks. Sam
> --- Bruce Hector <bruce_hector@...> wrote:
> > Pictures be danged, what we NEED to hear is that
> > you're bringing her
> > up the Hudson River to the Erie Canal, following
> it
> > to Oswego, New
> > York, crossing Lake Ontario (wait for a good day!)
> > to Kingston so
> > that your Topaz will be at the September Kingston
> > Messabout.
> >
> > THAT's what we NEED to hear. Can you make it? The
> > Bolger World WANTS
> > to know!
> >
> > Bruce Hector
> >http://www.brucesboats.com
> > For full details, Including Peter Lenihan's
> Bras'Dor
> > (Francais for
> > Golden Arm) "Chug-A-Lug" (just joking) Contest of
> > the Kingston
> > Messabout. Be there or miss the greatest Messabout
> > ever!
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to
> Outlook(TM).
>http://calendar.yahoo.com
>
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
Wow fellows! Could Spat go international? Across
Delaware Bay, then through the Jersey marshes, past
quaint colonial towns with their open-air lawnmower
markets. Through the Meadowlands brilliant with the
light of a dozen landfill fires. Up the Hudson, the
Erie, and across the lake. Out with the q flag, clear
customs, then hoist the Maple Leaf and off to
Kingston. I have wanted to sail away to Kingston ever
since I was a kid and heard Harry Belafonte sing about
"Kingston Town." Palm trees, rum punch, native girls,
innocent yet knowing. Cracked conch and crawfish on
Spat in the soft tropic twilight. Heaven! Amd your
local customs, like this thing you call "beer." I
know of it, by reputation. Sort of like soda pop, I
am told, but with a pleasantly narcotic effect. Said
to make men more virile and women more attractive.
Sounds wonderful.
I would love to come to the messabout. I
suspect, as things look, that it ain't going to
happen, but I'm not going to say no, 'cause its too
much fun to dream about. I will take you up on the
picture posting, as soon as I get some good shots.
Thanks. Sam
--- Bruce Hector <bruce_hector@...> wrote:
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
Delaware Bay, then through the Jersey marshes, past
quaint colonial towns with their open-air lawnmower
markets. Through the Meadowlands brilliant with the
light of a dozen landfill fires. Up the Hudson, the
Erie, and across the lake. Out with the q flag, clear
customs, then hoist the Maple Leaf and off to
Kingston. I have wanted to sail away to Kingston ever
since I was a kid and heard Harry Belafonte sing about
"Kingston Town." Palm trees, rum punch, native girls,
innocent yet knowing. Cracked conch and crawfish on
Spat in the soft tropic twilight. Heaven! Amd your
local customs, like this thing you call "beer." I
know of it, by reputation. Sort of like soda pop, I
am told, but with a pleasantly narcotic effect. Said
to make men more virile and women more attractive.
Sounds wonderful.
I would love to come to the messabout. I
suspect, as things look, that it ain't going to
happen, but I'm not going to say no, 'cause its too
much fun to dream about. I will take you up on the
picture posting, as soon as I get some good shots.
Thanks. Sam
--- Bruce Hector <bruce_hector@...> wrote:
> Pictures be danged, what we NEED to hear is that__________________________________
> you're bringing her
> up the Hudson River to the Erie Canal, following it
> to Oswego, New
> York, crossing Lake Ontario (wait for a good day!)
> to Kingston so
> that your Topaz will be at the September Kingston
> Messabout.
>
> THAT's what we NEED to hear. Can you make it? The
> Bolger World WANTS
> to know!
>
> Bruce Hector
>http://www.brucesboats.com
> For full details, Including Peter Lenihan's Bras'Dor
> (Francais for
> Golden Arm) "Chug-A-Lug" (just joking) Contest of
> the Kingston
> Messabout. Be there or miss the greatest Messabout
> ever!
>
>
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
Find a photo lab that will develop the film and scan it onto a Kodak Picture CD. It should only cost a couple of dollars extra. You can even ask them not to give you prints and you will save money. Once you see the pictures full-screen on your computer, you won't bother with crummy machine-made prints again.
Howard
Howard
>Any old camera will do, it just takes a bit longer to see the
>finished product. Then you might get someone to scan the >glossy 4X6
>photos for you,like I do since I am such a ten thumbed idiot.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
just been raised and it looks like the only way to save face now is
to come on up to Kingston.But to show that neither Bruce nor I wish
to put too much pressure on you,you will have a choice! Either take
the romantic route suggested by Bruce or,if time is tight,haul her up
on your trailer and spend several hours enjoying your fair country's
landscape as you travel north to Pinko Land,where the beer is
good,the beer is cold,the beer is cheap,the beer comes in many shapes
and sizes....oh the stories I could tell!!
Peter Lenihan,worried that the Kingston International Chug-a-Lug may
turn into a Lug-a-Chuck or Lug-a-Jeff and now perhaps a Lug-a-Sam....
wrote:
> Pictures be danged, what we NEED to hear is that you're bringingher
> up the Hudson River to the Erie Canal, following it to Oswego, NewWANTS
> York, crossing Lake Ontario (wait for a good day!) to Kingston so
> that your Topaz will be at the September Kingston Messabout.
>
> THAT's what we NEED to hear. Can you make it? The Bolger World
> to know!See what happens when you don't post photos Sam? Yup,the stakes have
>
> Bruce Hector
>http://www.brucesboats.com
> For full details, Including Peter Lenihan's Bras'Dor (Francais for
> Golden Arm) "Chug-A-Lug" (just joking) Contest of the Kingston
> Messabout. Be there or miss the greatest Messabout ever!
just been raised and it looks like the only way to save face now is
to come on up to Kingston.But to show that neither Bruce nor I wish
to put too much pressure on you,you will have a choice! Either take
the romantic route suggested by Bruce or,if time is tight,haul her up
on your trailer and spend several hours enjoying your fair country's
landscape as you travel north to Pinko Land,where the beer is
good,the beer is cold,the beer is cheap,the beer comes in many shapes
and sizes....oh the stories I could tell!!
Peter Lenihan,worried that the Kingston International Chug-a-Lug may
turn into a Lug-a-Chuck or Lug-a-Jeff and now perhaps a Lug-a-Sam....
I can't explain it, and Peter has no scanner, so he's out. BUT, if
you take some pics, and develop them at you favorite cheap photo
outlet (ask for gloss withut border, if you get a choice) AND snail
mail them to me , I'll scan them and post them.
Cause I'm as curious as Peter.
Bruce Hector
Hopeing, dreaming, and wishing that there'll be a Topaz at his
Messabout.
you take some pics, and develop them at you favorite cheap photo
outlet (ask for gloss withut border, if you get a choice) AND snail
mail them to me , I'll scan them and post them.
Cause I'm as curious as Peter.
Bruce Hector
Hopeing, dreaming, and wishing that there'll be a Topaz at his
Messabout.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
wrote:
Any old camera will do, it just takes a bit longer to see the
finished product. Then you might get someone to scan the glossy 4X6
photos for you,like I do since I am such a ten thumbed idiot.
However, I must warn you that once your photos are scanned to a
diskette, it is really really easy to post photos to the Bolger group
(s) and you will no longer have any excuses :-).
If I could just figure out the chat function(or find me a 12 year
old as Bruce suggests) then I would be firing on all two pistons and
consider myself "experienced" ...ha!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,eager to see some nice photos,eventually,along the
shores of the St.Lawrence.......
wrote:
> Peter, I knew somebody was going to ask me that. ISam,
> think I can borrow a digital camera,
Any old camera will do, it just takes a bit longer to see the
finished product. Then you might get someone to scan the glossy 4X6
photos for you,like I do since I am such a ten thumbed idiot.
However, I must warn you that once your photos are scanned to a
diskette, it is really really easy to post photos to the Bolger group
(s) and you will no longer have any excuses :-).
If I could just figure out the chat function(or find me a 12 year
old as Bruce suggests) then I would be firing on all two pistons and
consider myself "experienced" ...ha!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,eager to see some nice photos,eventually,along the
shores of the St.Lawrence.......
Pictures be danged, what we NEED to hear is that you're bringing her
up the Hudson River to the Erie Canal, following it to Oswego, New
York, crossing Lake Ontario (wait for a good day!) to Kingston so
that your Topaz will be at the September Kingston Messabout.
THAT's what we NEED to hear. Can you make it? The Bolger World WANTS
to know!
Bruce Hector
http://www.brucesboats.com
For full details, Including Peter Lenihan's Bras'Dor (Francais for
Golden Arm) "Chug-A-Lug" (just joking) Contest of the Kingston
Messabout. Be there or miss the greatest Messabout ever!
up the Hudson River to the Erie Canal, following it to Oswego, New
York, crossing Lake Ontario (wait for a good day!) to Kingston so
that your Topaz will be at the September Kingston Messabout.
THAT's what we NEED to hear. Can you make it? The Bolger World WANTS
to know!
Bruce Hector
http://www.brucesboats.com
For full details, Including Peter Lenihan's Bras'Dor (Francais for
Golden Arm) "Chug-A-Lug" (just joking) Contest of the Kingston
Messabout. Be there or miss the greatest Messabout ever!
Peter, I knew somebody was going to ask me that. I
think I can borrow a digital camera, but I don't know
how to post the photos (or digital pixal arrays, or
whatever you call a computer picture). Can somebody
explain it to me via e-mail? I mean 'splain it
r-e-a-l s-l-o-w, like you would to, say, a drunk who
didn't speak english well, or like a doctor would to a
fellow lifeboat passenger who knows nothing about
medicine but who is going to have to take out the
doctor's appendix with a steak knife? I promise to
try to get some pictures up, if somebody takes pity on
me and walks me through it. Sam
--- Peter Lenihan <ellengaest@...> wrote:
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
think I can borrow a digital camera, but I don't know
how to post the photos (or digital pixal arrays, or
whatever you call a computer picture). Can somebody
explain it to me via e-mail? I mean 'splain it
r-e-a-l s-l-o-w, like you would to, say, a drunk who
didn't speak english well, or like a doctor would to a
fellow lifeboat passenger who knows nothing about
medicine but who is going to have to take out the
doctor's appendix with a steak knife? I promise to
try to get some pictures up, if somebody takes pity on
me and walks me through it. Sam
--- Peter Lenihan <ellengaest@...> wrote:
> Great report Sam and thanks for the engine__________________________________
> endorsement! Now,all you
> have to do is post some BIG COLOR PICTURES of your
> TOPAZ.You know the
> type we like,inside shots,details,with a crowd on
> board,at anchor,at
> the dock etc......
>
> Sincerely,
> Peter Lenihan,Windermere builder............
>
>
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
Great report Sam and thanks for the engine endorsement! Now,all you
have to do is post some BIG COLOR PICTURES of your TOPAZ.You know the
type we like,inside shots,details,with a crowd on board,at anchor,at
the dock etc......
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,Windermere builder............
have to do is post some BIG COLOR PICTURES of your TOPAZ.You know the
type we like,inside shots,details,with a crowd on board,at anchor,at
the dock etc......
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,Windermere builder............
Topaz was designed for Long Island Sound. More than
half the bottom is flat, so that running in to a big
chop she will tend to pound. I have found her well
suited to Delaware Bay conditions. She is very
stable, and her variable-deadrise forward sections
make her quiet in a moderate chop.
--- jakeman19652002 <jakeman19652002@...> wrote:
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
half the bottom is flat, so that running in to a big
chop she will tend to pound. I have found her well
suited to Delaware Bay conditions. She is very
stable, and her variable-deadrise forward sections
make her quiet in a moderate chop.
--- jakeman19652002 <jakeman19652002@...> wrote:
> Topas seemlike a nice boaat. What kind of sea__________________________________
> conditions can she
> handle Jake.
>
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
Topas seemlike a nice boaat. What kind of sea conditions can she
handle Jake.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
wrote:
handle Jake.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
wrote:
> Despite the miserable spring weather on the
> mid-Atlantic coast, I have been able to get in a
> number of cruises on my Bolger Topaz, Spat. Spat is
> powered by the motor Bolger called for, the 50hp
> four-stroke Yamaha with the "high-thrust" lower unit.
> I was getting a top speed of around 18 kts (actually,
> 20 statute mph based on the Ymaha speedomter which
> came with the motor) with this unit at 6100 rpm (just
> above the recomended top rpm) with the prop that came
> with the boat, 14" x 18". Bolger recommended I go up
> to 14 x 20, but I was reluctant to do so because,
> let's face it, I'm cheap. Luckily, I managed to find
> the only hard piece of bottom for miles around with my
> prop, and it had to be remanufactured. It is now 14 X
> 20. This is definately the right size prop. I now
> top out at 5600 rpm at 22 kts, measured by gps. This
> is a remarkable speed, I think, from 50 hp on a
> thirty-one foot hull. The boat also manuvers better
> with the bigger prop. For those interested in the
> Topaz, I would recommend not going above the 50hp
> motor. Gas milage is excelent, and it gives an easy
> cruise in the 12-15 knt. range. Sam
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
>http://calendar.yahoo.com
Despite the miserable spring weather on the
mid-Atlantic coast, I have been able to get in a
number of cruises on my Bolger Topaz, Spat. Spat is
powered by the motor Bolger called for, the 50hp
four-stroke Yamaha with the "high-thrust" lower unit.
I was getting a top speed of around 18 kts (actually,
20 statute mph based on the Ymaha speedomter which
came with the motor) with this unit at 6100 rpm (just
above the recomended top rpm) with the prop that came
with the boat, 14" x 18". Bolger recommended I go up
to 14 x 20, but I was reluctant to do so because,
let's face it, I'm cheap. Luckily, I managed to find
the only hard piece of bottom for miles around with my
prop, and it had to be remanufactured. It is now 14 X
20. This is definately the right size prop. I now
top out at 5600 rpm at 22 kts, measured by gps. This
is a remarkable speed, I think, from 50 hp on a
thirty-one foot hull. The boat also manuvers better
with the bigger prop. For those interested in the
Topaz, I would recommend not going above the 50hp
motor. Gas milage is excelent, and it gives an easy
cruise in the 12-15 knt. range. Sam
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
mid-Atlantic coast, I have been able to get in a
number of cruises on my Bolger Topaz, Spat. Spat is
powered by the motor Bolger called for, the 50hp
four-stroke Yamaha with the "high-thrust" lower unit.
I was getting a top speed of around 18 kts (actually,
20 statute mph based on the Ymaha speedomter which
came with the motor) with this unit at 6100 rpm (just
above the recomended top rpm) with the prop that came
with the boat, 14" x 18". Bolger recommended I go up
to 14 x 20, but I was reluctant to do so because,
let's face it, I'm cheap. Luckily, I managed to find
the only hard piece of bottom for miles around with my
prop, and it had to be remanufactured. It is now 14 X
20. This is definately the right size prop. I now
top out at 5600 rpm at 22 kts, measured by gps. This
is a remarkable speed, I think, from 50 hp on a
thirty-one foot hull. The boat also manuvers better
with the bigger prop. For those interested in the
Topaz, I would recommend not going above the 50hp
motor. Gas milage is excelent, and it gives an easy
cruise in the 12-15 knt. range. Sam
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
For those who have shown an interest in this vessel I would reply to
more specific questions. Let it be said that like the rest of you
builders, this project is not without it's glitches. The side panels
as designed run about four inches short etc. etc. There really is a
lot of creative work and hard labor but it is paying off. The cabin is
glassed on as well as the foreward and aft cockpit. The foreward
cockpit is a wonderful space to be used. I am changing internal design
and inlarging the galley at the expense of the head. The head is
downsized with folding walls that come down to double as counter space
for the galley. I live on a boat during the winter and really
understand that keeping my wife happy goes a long way to keeping her
aboard. In fact without her help on the boat I would not be so far
along. We work a few long days fitted in between other jobs.
The cost is much higher than I anticipated. The cost of wood is the
problem. I am about to go over to the city to buy mahagany for
trimming and the sheer etc. She is a big vessel and the amount is
considerable. More money.
In summary, I can only say she really is turning out to be a really
classy boat. Those who have seen her are to a person, excited about
the design. Who said Bolger only designs boxes? Brad
more specific questions. Let it be said that like the rest of you
builders, this project is not without it's glitches. The side panels
as designed run about four inches short etc. etc. There really is a
lot of creative work and hard labor but it is paying off. The cabin is
glassed on as well as the foreward and aft cockpit. The foreward
cockpit is a wonderful space to be used. I am changing internal design
and inlarging the galley at the expense of the head. The head is
downsized with folding walls that come down to double as counter space
for the galley. I live on a boat during the winter and really
understand that keeping my wife happy goes a long way to keeping her
aboard. In fact without her help on the boat I would not be so far
along. We work a few long days fitted in between other jobs.
The cost is much higher than I anticipated. The cost of wood is the
problem. I am about to go over to the city to buy mahagany for
trimming and the sheer etc. She is a big vessel and the amount is
considerable. More money.
In summary, I can only say she really is turning out to be a really
classy boat. Those who have seen her are to a person, excited about
the design. Who said Bolger only designs boxes? Brad