[bolger] Re: Paint & Windsprint
HenryClann@...wrote:
I don't know if anyone has rigged one as a Cat Yawl, I would think that
it would tend to take away the simplicity of the boat. Plus, at 15ft,
adding another sail to tend...
I have to admit though, I like the idea of the mizzen holding the boat
into the wind while you mess with the main... And I guess the Micro is a
cat yawl at around the same length.
BTW, the AF2 is going together very nice and quick. I picked it because
it was the most boat I could get for the time and money invested. The
same applies to the AF3, and if I didn't have a hankering to build the
prototype, and didn't need to carry more than a couple of passengers, I
would have seriously considered the AF3.
--
Richard
Spelling|richard@...|http://www.spellingbusiness.com
SBE Communications, Business Solutions for the next Millennium and
Beyond!
Boat building projects:http://www.sbecommunications.com/boats/index.htm
>I like the AF3, mine is pretty much just a bigger version.
>
> Looking more and more at AF3. It's a fairly simple looking boat & rig. I
> wonder if anyone has rigged one as a Cat Yawl I think that would be quite
> nice using maybe a balance Lug on front & a sprit on the back? That would
> look "kewl"? & old timey. I am too much of a wussey to takle a Chebacco at
> this time....
> Larry
I don't know if anyone has rigged one as a Cat Yawl, I would think that
it would tend to take away the simplicity of the boat. Plus, at 15ft,
adding another sail to tend...
I have to admit though, I like the idea of the mizzen holding the boat
into the wind while you mess with the main... And I guess the Micro is a
cat yawl at around the same length.
BTW, the AF2 is going together very nice and quick. I picked it because
it was the most boat I could get for the time and money invested. The
same applies to the AF3, and if I didn't have a hankering to build the
prototype, and didn't need to carry more than a couple of passengers, I
would have seriously considered the AF3.
--
Richard
Spelling|richard@...|http://www.spellingbusiness.com
SBE Communications, Business Solutions for the next Millennium and
Beyond!
Boat building projects:http://www.sbecommunications.com/boats/index.htm
In a message dated 11/4/99 8:23:26 AM Central Standard Time,
richard@...writes:
<< Got any pictures? After i get Pointy Skiff built, i plan on building one of
wonder if anyone has rigged one as a Cat Yawl I think that would be quite
nice using maybe a balance Lug on front & a sprit on the back? That would
look "kewl"? & old timey. I am too much of a wussey to takle a Chebacco at
this time....
Larry
<A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/henryclann/Boats/amatureboats.index.htm">The
Careenage & Blue Lagoon, A page for Home Built Boats & Owners!</A>
Remember; the Titanic was built by the professionals, but Noah's Ark by
amatuers!
richard@...writes:
<< Got any pictures? After i get Pointy Skiff built, i plan on building one of
> Michalak's "cuddy" boats, like AF3, or Cubit, or Pencilbox, I'd love tosee a
> pic of AF2 as i can't find any on Jim's website.Looking more and more at AF3. It's a fairly simple looking boat & rig. I
> Larry Henry >>
wonder if anyone has rigged one as a Cat Yawl I think that would be quite
nice using maybe a balance Lug on front & a sprit on the back? That would
look "kewl"? & old timey. I am too much of a wussey to takle a Chebacco at
this time....
Larry
<A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/henryclann/Boats/amatureboats.index.htm">The
Careenage & Blue Lagoon, A page for Home Built Boats & Owners!</A>
Remember; the Titanic was built by the professionals, but Noah's Ark by
amatuers!
I have pictures, thier being developed as we speak. Had a whole role of
construction photos but they are hiding. When they turn up I'll put them online as
well.
HenryClann@...wrote:
construction photos but they are hiding. When they turn up I'll put them online as
well.
HenryClann@...wrote:
> In a message dated 11/3/99 8:26:14 PM Central Standard Time,
>richard@...writes:
>
> << Just finished priming and paiting the bottom of my 20ft Michalak AF2
> prior to flipping it. >>
>
> Got any pictures? After i get Pointy Skiff built, i plan on building one of
> Michalak's "cuddy" boats, like AF3, or Cubit, or Pencilbox, I'd love to see a
> pic of AF2 as i can't find any on Jim's website.
> Larry Henry
> Palm Bay, Florida
> <A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/henryclann/Boats/amatureboats.index.htm">The
> Careenage & Blue Lagoon, A page for Home Built Boats & Owners!</A>
> Remember; the Titanic was built by the professionals, but Noah's Ark by
> amatuers!
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -- eGroup Home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?m=1
> -- Free email groups at eGroups.com
How I painted my Windsprint:
I followed the advice of Dave Carnell. I used latex primer, one coat. I used
latex high gloss, two coats.
I plan to touch up my boat each winter.
MM
I followed the advice of Dave Carnell. I used latex primer, one coat. I used
latex high gloss, two coats.
I plan to touch up my boat each winter.
MM
In a message dated 11/3/99 8:26:14 PM Central Standard Time,
richard@...writes:
<< Just finished priming and paiting the bottom of my 20ft Michalak AF2
prior to flipping it. >>
Got any pictures? After i get Pointy Skiff built, i plan on building one of
Michalak's "cuddy" boats, like AF3, or Cubit, or Pencilbox, I'd love to see a
pic of AF2 as i can't find any on Jim's website.
Larry Henry
Palm Bay, Florida
<A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/henryclann/Boats/amatureboats.index.htm">The
Careenage & Blue Lagoon, A page for Home Built Boats & Owners!</A>
Remember; the Titanic was built by the professionals, but Noah's Ark by
amatuers!
richard@...writes:
<< Just finished priming and paiting the bottom of my 20ft Michalak AF2
prior to flipping it. >>
Got any pictures? After i get Pointy Skiff built, i plan on building one of
Michalak's "cuddy" boats, like AF3, or Cubit, or Pencilbox, I'd love to see a
pic of AF2 as i can't find any on Jim's website.
Larry Henry
Palm Bay, Florida
<A HREF="http://hometown.aol.com/henryclann/Boats/amatureboats.index.htm">The
Careenage & Blue Lagoon, A page for Home Built Boats & Owners!</A>
Remember; the Titanic was built by the professionals, but Noah's Ark by
amatuers!
<snip>
up in huge sheets.
Bin alachol primer does stick. Use a cheap brush, it dries very fast
and ruins good brushes, but dries very thin no matter how globed on.
Porch paint over that sticks just fine.
> Just finished priming and paiting the bottom of my 20ft Michalak AF2Behr
> prior to flipping it. Four coats of primer and two of porch paint.
> exterior oil based primer, about a gallon and a half for the bottomand
> most of the sides. ~$20 a gallon. Two coats of Behr interior/exteriorI've had the same problem. Porch paint don't stick to epoxy. Mine came
> porch paint, just on the bottom. About 1/2 gallon, ~$20 a gallon.
>
up in huge sheets.
Bin alachol primer does stick. Use a cheap brush, it dries very fast
and ruins good brushes, but dries very thin no matter how globed on.
Porch paint over that sticks just fine.
In a message dated 99-11-03 21:01:47 EST, you write:
<< Sanding. After trying everything, I've decided the experts are right. The
only way to get a good fair surface without raising the grain is to do it
by hand. Start with a coarse grit (40-50) and work up to about 120. It is
hard work, but strangely satisfying. I spent a lot of time pushing a
sanding block over the last few days and I'm better person for it. (I use
the time spent sanding for meditation and prayer). It builds the old
shoulder muscles, too. Unfortunately, I sanded the boat with a RO before
glassing, and there is some grain pattern showing through. Live and
learn... The next boat will be (nearly) entirely hand sanded.
I have heard it said that once you hit the grit of sandpaper specified
by the paint manufacturer, you don't get any additional smoother finish by
sanding with finer paper. The argument put to me is something like, if it
fills the scratches made by 80 grit, that is the end point. Any other finer
marks will still have their scratches filled. I used Kilz over 80 grit
sanded ply finished with Latex and found no sanding or grain marks. Since
you have gone the 120 route, I would like to hear of your experience and an
observation on whether you think this theory is right. Regards, Warren
<< Sanding. After trying everything, I've decided the experts are right. The
only way to get a good fair surface without raising the grain is to do it
by hand. Start with a coarse grit (40-50) and work up to about 120. It is
hard work, but strangely satisfying. I spent a lot of time pushing a
sanding block over the last few days and I'm better person for it. (I use
the time spent sanding for meditation and prayer). It builds the old
shoulder muscles, too. Unfortunately, I sanded the boat with a RO before
glassing, and there is some grain pattern showing through. Live and
learn... The next boat will be (nearly) entirely hand sanded.
>>John,
I have heard it said that once you hit the grit of sandpaper specified
by the paint manufacturer, you don't get any additional smoother finish by
sanding with finer paper. The argument put to me is something like, if it
fills the scratches made by 80 grit, that is the end point. Any other finer
marks will still have their scratches filled. I used Kilz over 80 grit
sanded ply finished with Latex and found no sanding or grain marks. Since
you have gone the 120 route, I would like to hear of your experience and an
observation on whether you think this theory is right. Regards, Warren
Robert N. Lundy wrote:
symtoms, same results, even the finger burning...
I went ahead and finished the cutout, putting oil on the siezed bearing.
Then it came off, and I was riding on the little flange... Finished ok,
but had some cleanup to do.
final bit with the belt sander.
prior to flipping it. Four coats of primer and two of porch paint. Behr
exterior oil based primer, about a gallon and a half for the bottom and
most of the sides. ~$20 a gallon. Two coats of Behr interior/exterior
porch paint, just on the bottom. About 1/2 gallon, ~$20 a gallon.
TIP: fair and smooth the bottom BEFORE you paint. I had mine pretty
smooth, and decided to longboard the primer (limestone/epoxy bottom
coating is HARD) to get the rest of the fairing done. Only parialy
successful.
Also, I roled the primer and paint on... looks like, well, as if it was
put on with a roler.... certainly not a glass smooth finish, even
sanding between coats.
The paint seems to be sticking fine. Have had trouble with porch paint
in the past going directly on epoxy. It would peel off in strips when I
scratched the canoe up.
The primer did dry faster on the bare wood surfaces than on the epoxy
ones. Electric heater under the boat speeds up the drying pretty good...
Oil based primer... one word. VENTILATION!!!
--
Richard
Spelling|richard@...|http://www.spellingbusiness.com
SBE Communications, Business Solutions for the next Millennium and
Beyond!
Boat building projects:http://www.sbecommunications.com/boats/index.htm
>I burned up the one I got from Home Depot on the boat I'm building. Same
> Well, I got around to shaping my bottom up to the chine last night. The
> router/trimming bit worked great, but, as noted by other Windsprint
> builders, the angle of the chine leaves just a litle bit. Oh, and I wore
> out another of my harbor frieght router bits (after a trip around the boat
> the little bearing on the end siezed up. Of course I had to touch it,
> buringing my fingers).
>
symtoms, same results, even the finger burning...
I went ahead and finished the cutout, putting oil on the siezed bearing.
Then it came off, and I was riding on the little flange... Finished ok,
but had some cleanup to do.
> For the final shaping I started with my randon orbit sander. Thats a no go,For final shapping I use a Black and Decker power plane, then get the
> too slow. Then the belt sander got a try; better, but still slow. The
> edgegrain of the 1/2" pine ply is tough! Soo.... 4 words: Angle Grinder, 36
> Grit. This was the rig I was ONLY going to use on really ugly blobs of
> epoxy. I was so scared of it I practiced on scrap for 10 minutes. It
> worked great though, got one side all faired and the stem and stern done.
>
final bit with the belt sander.
> Its not to soon to start thinking about paint. I've had good luck with highJust finished priming and paiting the bottom of my 20ft Michalak AF2
> gloss exterior trim paint, as it can be bought with an anti-mildew additive.
> I'm open to ideas. The exterior will be a forest green, the interior white
> (already hae some high gloss white leftover). Mast and gunwales, varnish or
> cetol (don't know how cetol will look on fir)
>
> Paint stories (and costs if you don't mind)
>
prior to flipping it. Four coats of primer and two of porch paint. Behr
exterior oil based primer, about a gallon and a half for the bottom and
most of the sides. ~$20 a gallon. Two coats of Behr interior/exterior
porch paint, just on the bottom. About 1/2 gallon, ~$20 a gallon.
TIP: fair and smooth the bottom BEFORE you paint. I had mine pretty
smooth, and decided to longboard the primer (limestone/epoxy bottom
coating is HARD) to get the rest of the fairing done. Only parialy
successful.
Also, I roled the primer and paint on... looks like, well, as if it was
put on with a roler.... certainly not a glass smooth finish, even
sanding between coats.
The paint seems to be sticking fine. Have had trouble with porch paint
in the past going directly on epoxy. It would peel off in strips when I
scratched the canoe up.
The primer did dry faster on the bare wood surfaces than on the epoxy
ones. Electric heater under the boat speeds up the drying pretty good...
Oil based primer... one word. VENTILATION!!!
--
Richard
Spelling|richard@...|http://www.spellingbusiness.com
SBE Communications, Business Solutions for the next Millennium and
Beyond!
Boat building projects:http://www.sbecommunications.com/boats/index.htm
At 07:51 PM 11/03/1999 -0500, you wrote:
1/4" plywood to go through. It really was a fun job. Really.
Interlux high build primer leftover from my Windsprint and the interior
with Kilz II.
As for paint, I used Rustoleum polyurathane, applied with a nifty little 4"
wide, by 1" diameter foam roller. After rolling on the paint, I tpped it
off foam brushes. It looks ok. It might not be as nice or as tough as the
Interlux Brightsides I put on the Windsprint. At ~$6/quart compared to
$22/quart for the Interlux, it is good enough. for me.
Sanding. After trying everything, I've decided the experts are right. The
only way to get a good fair surface without raising the grain is to do it
by hand. Start with a coarse grit (40-50) and work up to about 120. It is
hard work, but strangely satisfying. I spent a lot of time pushing a
sanding block over the last few days and I'm better person for it. (I use
the time spent sanding for meditation and prayer). It builds the old
shoulder muscles, too. Unfortunately, I sanded the boat with a RO before
glassing, and there is some grain pattern showing through. Live and
learn... The next boat will be (nearly) entirely hand sanded.
Best,
JB
John Bell
Kennesaw, Georgia, USA
-----------------------------------------------
jmbell@...
J.B.'s Boatyard
http://jmbell.home.mindspring.com/boatyard.htm
>I used a block plane and finished up with a belt sander. But I only had
>For the final shaping I started with my randon orbit sander. Thats a no go,
>too slow. Then the belt sander got a try; better, but still slow. The
>edgegrain of the 1/2" pine ply is tough! Soo.... 4 words: Angle Grinder, 36
>Grit. This was the rig I was ONLY going to use on really ugly blobs of
>epoxy. I was so scared of it I practiced on scrap for 10 minutes. It
>worked great though, got one side all faired and the stem and stern done.
1/4" plywood to go through. It really was a fun job. Really.
>I jsut finihed painting my dory this weekend. I primed the exterior with
>Its not to soon to start thinking about paint. I've had good luck with high
>gloss exterior trim paint, as it can be bought with an anti-mildew additive.
>I'm open to ideas. The exterior will be a forest green, the interior white
>(already hae some high gloss white leftover). Mast and gunwales, varnish or
>cetol (don't know how cetol will look on fir)
>
>Paint stories (and costs if you don't mind)
>
Interlux high build primer leftover from my Windsprint and the interior
with Kilz II.
As for paint, I used Rustoleum polyurathane, applied with a nifty little 4"
wide, by 1" diameter foam roller. After rolling on the paint, I tpped it
off foam brushes. It looks ok. It might not be as nice or as tough as the
Interlux Brightsides I put on the Windsprint. At ~$6/quart compared to
$22/quart for the Interlux, it is good enough. for me.
Sanding. After trying everything, I've decided the experts are right. The
only way to get a good fair surface without raising the grain is to do it
by hand. Start with a coarse grit (40-50) and work up to about 120. It is
hard work, but strangely satisfying. I spent a lot of time pushing a
sanding block over the last few days and I'm better person for it. (I use
the time spent sanding for meditation and prayer). It builds the old
shoulder muscles, too. Unfortunately, I sanded the boat with a RO before
glassing, and there is some grain pattern showing through. Live and
learn... The next boat will be (nearly) entirely hand sanded.
Best,
JB
John Bell
Kennesaw, Georgia, USA
-----------------------------------------------
jmbell@...
J.B.'s Boatyard
http://jmbell.home.mindspring.com/boatyard.htm
Well, I got around to shaping my bottom up to the chine last night. The
router/trimming bit worked great, but, as noted by other Windsprint
builders, the angle of the chine leaves just a litle bit. Oh, and I wore
out another of my harbor frieght router bits (after a trip around the boat
the little bearing on the end siezed up. Of course I had to touch it,
buringing my fingers).
For the final shaping I started with my randon orbit sander. Thats a no go,
too slow. Then the belt sander got a try; better, but still slow. The
edgegrain of the 1/2" pine ply is tough! Soo.... 4 words: Angle Grinder, 36
Grit. This was the rig I was ONLY going to use on really ugly blobs of
epoxy. I was so scared of it I practiced on scrap for 10 minutes. It
worked great though, got one side all faired and the stem and stern done.
Its not to soon to start thinking about paint. I've had good luck with high
gloss exterior trim paint, as it can be bought with an anti-mildew additive.
I'm open to ideas. The exterior will be a forest green, the interior white
(already hae some high gloss white leftover). Mast and gunwales, varnish or
cetol (don't know how cetol will look on fir)
Paint stories (and costs if you don't mind)
Robert & Amy Lundy
St. Petersburg, Fla.
router/trimming bit worked great, but, as noted by other Windsprint
builders, the angle of the chine leaves just a litle bit. Oh, and I wore
out another of my harbor frieght router bits (after a trip around the boat
the little bearing on the end siezed up. Of course I had to touch it,
buringing my fingers).
For the final shaping I started with my randon orbit sander. Thats a no go,
too slow. Then the belt sander got a try; better, but still slow. The
edgegrain of the 1/2" pine ply is tough! Soo.... 4 words: Angle Grinder, 36
Grit. This was the rig I was ONLY going to use on really ugly blobs of
epoxy. I was so scared of it I practiced on scrap for 10 minutes. It
worked great though, got one side all faired and the stem and stern done.
Its not to soon to start thinking about paint. I've had good luck with high
gloss exterior trim paint, as it can be bought with an anti-mildew additive.
I'm open to ideas. The exterior will be a forest green, the interior white
(already hae some high gloss white leftover). Mast and gunwales, varnish or
cetol (don't know how cetol will look on fir)
Paint stories (and costs if you don't mind)
Robert & Amy Lundy
St. Petersburg, Fla.