Re: Whalewatcher modifications

>
> agree. for the time, effort and $$ involved invest in a sound fitted
> full cover if you cannot arrange inside storage- not a blue tarp.
>

----- Original Message -----

From:sirdarnell

To:bolger@yahoogroups.com

Sent:Tuesday, April 10, 2012 1:28 PM

Subject:[bolger] Re: Whalewatcher modifications

 

Does the Whalewatcher rudder have an end plate? If not, adding one should give it a better grip on the water.

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Susanne@..." <philbolger@...> wrote:
>
> In-house we've discussed and drew across a range of cartoons and preliminary designs twin rudders, side-by-side, far enough apart to be to be just inside the transom-corners when fore& aft. Linkage yes, but not horrendous. Easier than your car's front-end...
> Susanne Altenburger, PB&F
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Connor, Patrick
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 9:59 AM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Whalewatcher modifications
>
>
>
>
> Agree we have adapted ourselves to Utilis, but that was easy; early on I thought the lee boards could be wider at the bottom and the rudder larger. I still maintain the same as to the rudder; it is underpowered and should be deeper. Pulling a number out of the air, I would say at least 25% deeper. However, after experimenting with experienced crew on several extended cruises, I have come to think the leeboards are fine. However in the correspondence between Phil and George, it was clear Phil felt the final shape a compromise simply to allow the windows to open fully with the board partly down. He drew an early cartoon that showed boards similar in shape to Black Skimmer's.
>
> In actual use we usually keep the boards part way down (and the windows open) in sheltered anchorages. In marinas and open anchorages we raise the boards all the way up- in the former to serve as fender boards and in the latter to eliminate banging. You can still crack the windows about 3". Keep in mind our forward windows open so there is still plenty of through ventilation.
>
> Relative to ballast tanks ours is very simple and employs no fancy devices. It is completely reliable. Our WW is set up with very simple screw-in type cockpit drain plugs at the deepest point of each tank (on the side, not the bottom and accessed from outside) and a vent on the top of each tank accessed from inside under the 'mid ships counter (bronze opening valve). Procedure is: prior to launch, open vents and remove the plugs. Launch boat. Tanks fill (and empty) in about ten minutes. They will fill completely. Close vents and screw in plugs. You need to wade in of course to replace the plugs unless you have a dinghy. You're all set. When taking out, we usually open the vents, then pull the boat out and then remove the plugs on the ramp. I trailer her behind an F-150 so there is plenty of reserve power to pull the extra weight a few feet. I would not recommend trailering her any distance with tanks full to save needless stress on the hull.
>
> When I get home I always mop out any remaining water (about a quart)with a sponge by removing a 6" opening cleaning/inspection port installed on the top of each tank. In storage, I leave the screw-in lids off for ventilation. The interior of her tanks are coated with many, many coats of epoxy.
>
> This arrangement doesn't allow water that gets into the boat to escape; it must be mopped up. However, we never have had water inside the boat, except once when we left the boat to run errands with the companionway wide open and a heavy thunderstorm struck. With the cover Mason designed, it stays snug and dry. Ours doesn't live outside when not sailing but if she did I would spend the money for a good cover.
>
> If you pursue this with a view of allowing water to drain from the inside I might add that as designed the three athwartships structural members do not have limber holes which would be needed as a means to drain water to the deepest part of the hull. Of you do this you may need to increase their vertical dimension somewhat.
>
> --------------------------
> Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> From:bolger@yahoogroups.com<bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com<bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Mon Apr 09 04:15:09 2012
> Subject: [bolger] Whalewatcher modifications
>
>
>
> Hi Patrick,
>
> A number of modifications to Whalewatcher were mooted back inhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/message/64115quite soon after your first big trip report. Two things in particular were raised:
>
> 1. The leeboards were too narrow.
> 2. The rudder was too small.
>
> Were any of those earlier mooted modifications undertaken or can I infer from your comments below, that in the end, the only changes that you felt really needed to be done were those you've listed below. In other words, you've adjusted to Utilis rather than the other way around!
>
> Also interested in how the water ballast filling and emptying procedure works. To fill do you:
>
> 1. Open a plug inside the boat in the centre of the ballast tank's upper surface. If this is the way its done then any rain that gets into the boat's cabin would automatically drain out through the ballast tank when the boat is being stored outside. That would be a big plus for me, knowing that I would never need to worry about rainwater building up inside the cabin when the boat is not being used.
> 2. Open plug/s port and/or starboard and wait for the ballast tank to fill. Do the unballasted parts of the boat fore and aft of the ballast tank support the boat when the ballast tank is open, in which case, I'd guess, you would have to add the last few gallons yourself manually with a bucket?
>
> To empty do you:
>
> 1. Allow the tank to purge itself as you pull the boat out of the water on it's trailer or...
>
> 2. Use a bilge pump to drain the tank while still afloat?
>
> A final question, have you ever tried sailing to windward in the really shallow water that it's alleged the bowboard will let you sail in, say 18 inches? My local sailing haunt is Lake Ellesmere, just outside Christchurch, New Zealand (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Ellesmere_/_Te_Waihora). The lake is very shallow, mostly 4 foot deep, but also quite large at 9 miles wide and 18 miles long. I can sail far and wide in my Michalak Philsboat (I've NEVER seen another sailboat because I think it's too shallow for anything but specialised shoal draft sailing craft), but at 15'4" she's too slow to go anywhere fast.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Rob.
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Connor, Patrick" <pconnor@> wrote:
> >
> > To your questions, the stringers on mine are old growth, vertical grain
> > fir. Tim Anderson, who built the hull in SoCal, had a big pile of it and
> > used it for all of the solid wood structural elements. The bits that
> > Mason added are Mahogany or Oak. Plywood for the hull was 1/2" fir,
> > older stuff and pretty good as far as fir goes, but by the time I got
> > the hull, was checked inside, even though it had been coated with epoxy
> > (no 'glass inside). Mason recoated the interior (I believe), sanded,
> > painted and so far no additional checking. Outside, Tim did a very good
> > job coating with epoxy and F/G and there was no checking whatsover-and
> > none thus far. Tight and strong. The bottom is three layers of 1/2" Ply
> > (instead of two by the plans) and three layers of 10-oz F/G cloth- it
> > isn't going anywhere.
> >
> > Tim departed on the plans by using a foam-cored upper deck with 1-by fir
> > stringers, clad in 1/4" okume both inside and outside, for additional
> > flotation high in emergency situations. Phil alluded to this change in
> > his analysis of the design. Tim also added a full width thwart in
> > cockpit about at the mizzen mast step in order to add additional
> > stiffness in the aft part of the hull, which it most certainly does.
> > Phil's thwart for the mast step is not drawn to full width. I think this
> > too is a good change. Tim is an experienced professional boatbuilder who
> > had built several Bolger boats over the years and had his own notions of
> > strength. I know he consulted periodically with Phil, but do not know on
> > what specifics.
> >
> > When Phil was on the boat, he asked if the plans had called for the
> > solid bulkheads in the two that make up the fore and aft faces of the
> > galley, as opposed to having cutouts like Jochems, so a person sitting
> > in the aft part of the cabin could see forward. I told him the plans
> > called for solid. His response: "That was an oversight." So there ya go.
> > I think the cutouts would be a desirable change. Mason and I also
> > decided that the windows facing forward into the bow well should open
> > outwards, to allow for ventilation, and Mason installed them so. This
> > too was a good change. Mason also directed the fabrication of a very
> > clever canvas cover for the center opening that works like a charm and
> > does not leak a drop, even in the heaviest downpour. This has been
> > tested many times.
> >
> > Put a flexible rubber flap on the underside of the hull to cover the bow
> > well drain hole so waves won't geyser into the bow well. Make sure to
> > make that bow center board (you will need it to go to windward), and
> > while you are at it, a filler, otherwise the bow well and everything in
> > it WILL be wet.
> >
> > That's it. This is a great design and a great boat. There needs to be
> > more of them! Phil commented when he sailed in her he was glad it got
> > built- it was an important design.
> >
> > Patrick A. Connor
>

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Susanne@..." <philbolger@...> wrote:
>
> In-house we've discussed and drew across a range of cartoons and preliminary designs twin rudders, side-by-side, far enough apart to be to be just inside the transom-corners when fore& aft. Linkage yes, but not horrendous. Easier than your car's front-end...
> Susanne Altenburger, PB&F
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Connor, Patrick
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 9:59 AM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Whalewatcher modifications
>
>
>
>
> Agree we have adapted ourselves to Utilis, but that was easy; early on I thought the lee boards could be wider at the bottom and the rudder larger. I still maintain the same as to the rudder; it is underpowered and should be deeper. Pulling a number out of the air, I would say at least 25% deeper. However, after experimenting with experienced crew on several extended cruises, I have come to think the leeboards are fine. However in the correspondence between Phil and George, it was clear Phil felt the final shape a compromise simply to allow the windows to open fully with the board partly down. He drew an early cartoon that showed boards similar in shape to Black Skimmer's.
>
> In actual use we usually keep the boards part way down (and the windows open) in sheltered anchorages. In marinas and open anchorages we raise the boards all the way up- in the former to serve as fender boards and in the latter to eliminate banging. You can still crack the windows about 3". Keep in mind our forward windows open so there is still plenty of through ventilation.
>
> Relative to ballast tanks ours is very simple and employs no fancy devices. It is completely reliable. Our WW is set up with very simple screw-in type cockpit drain plugs at the deepest point of each tank (on the side, not the bottom and accessed from outside) and a vent on the top of each tank accessed from inside under the 'mid ships counter (bronze opening valve). Procedure is: prior to launch, open vents and remove the plugs. Launch boat. Tanks fill (and empty) in about ten minutes. They will fill completely. Close vents and screw in plugs. You need to wade in of course to replace the plugs unless you have a dinghy. You're all set. When taking out, we usually open the vents, then pull the boat out and then remove the plugs on the ramp. I trailer her behind an F-150 so there is plenty of reserve power to pull the extra weight a few feet. I would not recommend trailering her any distance with tanks full to save needless stress on the hull.
>
> When I get home I always mop out any remaining water (about a quart)with a sponge by removing a 6" opening cleaning/inspection port installed on the top of each tank. In storage, I leave the screw-in lids off for ventilation. The interior of her tanks are coated with many, many coats of epoxy.
>
> This arrangement doesn't allow water that gets into the boat to escape; it must be mopped up. However, we never have had water inside the boat, except once when we left the boat to run errands with the companionway wide open and a heavy thunderstorm struck. With the cover Mason designed, it stays snug and dry. Ours doesn't live outside when not sailing but if she did I would spend the money for a good cover.
>
> If you pursue this with a view of allowing water to drain from the inside I might add that as designed the three athwartships structural members do not have limber holes which would be needed as a means to drain water to the deepest part of the hull. Of you do this you may need to increase their vertical dimension somewhat.
>
> --------------------------
> Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> From:bolger@yahoogroups.com<bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com<bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Mon Apr 09 04:15:09 2012
> Subject: [bolger] Whalewatcher modifications
>
>
>
> Hi Patrick,
>
> A number of modifications to Whalewatcher were mooted back inhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/message/64115quite soon after your first big trip report. Two things in particular were raised:
>
> 1. The leeboards were too narrow.
> 2. The rudder was too small.
>
> Were any of those earlier mooted modifications undertaken or can I infer from your comments below, that in the end, the only changes that you felt really needed to be done were those you've listed below. In other words, you've adjusted to Utilis rather than the other way around!
>
> Also interested in how the water ballast filling and emptying procedure works. To fill do you:
>
> 1. Open a plug inside the boat in the centre of the ballast tank's upper surface. If this is the way its done then any rain that gets into the boat's cabin would automatically drain out through the ballast tank when the boat is being stored outside. That would be a big plus for me, knowing that I would never need to worry about rainwater building up inside the cabin when the boat is not being used.
> 2. Open plug/s port and/or starboard and wait for the ballast tank to fill. Do the unballasted parts of the boat fore and aft of the ballast tank support the boat when the ballast tank is open, in which case, I'd guess, you would have to add the last few gallons yourself manually with a bucket?
>
> To empty do you:
>
> 1. Allow the tank to purge itself as you pull the boat out of the water on it's trailer or...
>
> 2. Use a bilge pump to drain the tank while still afloat?
>
> A final question, have you ever tried sailing to windward in the really shallow water that it's alleged the bowboard will let you sail in, say 18 inches? My local sailing haunt is Lake Ellesmere, just outside Christchurch, New Zealand (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Ellesmere_/_Te_Waihora). The lake is very shallow, mostly 4 foot deep, but also quite large at 9 miles wide and 18 miles long. I can sail far and wide in my Michalak Philsboat (I've NEVER seen another sailboat because I think it's too shallow for anything but specialised shoal draft sailing craft), but at 15'4" she's too slow to go anywhere fast.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Rob.
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Connor, Patrick" <pconnor@> wrote:
> >
> > To your questions, the stringers on mine are old growth, vertical grain
> > fir. Tim Anderson, who built the hull in SoCal, had a big pile of it and
> > used it for all of the solid wood structural elements. The bits that
> > Mason added are Mahogany or Oak. Plywood for the hull was 1/2" fir,
> > older stuff and pretty good as far as fir goes, but by the time I got
> > the hull, was checked inside, even though it had been coated with epoxy
> > (no 'glass inside). Mason recoated the interior (I believe), sanded,
> > painted and so far no additional checking. Outside, Tim did a very good
> > job coating with epoxy and F/G and there was no checking whatsover-and
> > none thus far. Tight and strong. The bottom is three layers of 1/2" Ply
> > (instead of two by the plans) and three layers of 10-oz F/G cloth- it
> > isn't going anywhere.
> >
> > Tim departed on the plans by using a foam-cored upper deck with 1-by fir
> > stringers, clad in 1/4" okume both inside and outside, for additional
> > flotation high in emergency situations. Phil alluded to this change in
> > his analysis of the design. Tim also added a full width thwart in
> > cockpit about at the mizzen mast step in order to add additional
> > stiffness in the aft part of the hull, which it most certainly does.
> > Phil's thwart for the mast step is not drawn to full width. I think this
> > too is a good change. Tim is an experienced professional boatbuilder who
> > had built several Bolger boats over the years and had his own notions of
> > strength. I know he consulted periodically with Phil, but do not know on
> > what specifics.
> >
> > When Phil was on the boat, he asked if the plans had called for the
> > solid bulkheads in the two that make up the fore and aft faces of the
> > galley, as opposed to having cutouts like Jochems, so a person sitting
> > in the aft part of the cabin could see forward. I told him the plans
> > called for solid. His response: "That was an oversight." So there ya go.
> > I think the cutouts would be a desirable change. Mason and I also
> > decided that the windows facing forward into the bow well should open
> > outwards, to allow for ventilation, and Mason installed them so. This
> > too was a good change. Mason also directed the fabrication of a very
> > clever canvas cover for the center opening that works like a charm and
> > does not leak a drop, even in the heaviest downpour. This has been
> > tested many times.
> >
> > Put a flexible rubber flap on the underside of the hull to cover the bow
> > well drain hole so waves won't geyser into the bow well. Make sure to
> > make that bow center board (you will need it to go to windward), and
> > while you are at it, a filler, otherwise the bow well and everything in
> > it WILL be wet.
> >
> > That's it. This is a great design and a great boat. There needs to be
> > more of them! Phil commented when he sailed in her he was glad it got
> > built- it was an important design.
> >
> > Patrick A. Connor
>

----- Original Message -----

From:Rob Kellock

To:bolger@yahoogroups.com

Sent:Tuesday, April 10, 2012 4:22 AM

Subject:[bolger] Re: Whalewatcher modifications

 

Hi Patrick & Suzanne,

Thank you for your detailed responses. Much appreciated. The rudder size issue is a tricky problem. Personally, I wouldn't want twin rudders because they would get in the way of accessing the boat over the stern transom and the linkage between the two would have to contend with the outboard motor.

Anything wrong with the older style high aspect Martha Jane single hinged rudder except that you need to take a bunch of cheap pencils with you on every trip to break when you hit the bottom?

Cheers,

Rob.

From:Connor, Patrick

To:bolger@yahoogroups.com

Sent:Monday, April 09, 2012 9:59 AM

Subject:Re: [bolger] Whalewatcher modifications

 

Agree we have adapted ourselves to Utilis, but that was easy; early on I thought the lee boards could be wider at the bottom and the rudder larger. I still maintain the same as to the rudder; it is underpowered and should be deeper. Pulling a number out of the air, I would say at least 25% deeper. However, after experimenting with experienced crew on several extended cruises, I have come to think the leeboards are fine. However in the correspondence between Phil and George, it was clear Phil felt the final shape a compromise simply to allow the windows to open fully with the board partly down. He drew an early cartoon that showed boards similar in shape to Black Skimmer's.

In actual use we usually keep the boards part way down (and the windows open) in sheltered anchorages. In marinas and open anchorages we raise the boards all the way up- in the former to serve as fender boards and in the latter to eliminate banging. You can still crack the windows about 3". Keep in mind our forward windows open so there is still plenty of through ventilation.

Relative to ballast tanks ours is very simple and employs no fancy devices. It is completely reliable. Our WW is set up with very simple screw-in type cockpit drain plugs at the deepest point of each tank (on the side, not the bottom and accessed from outside) and a vent on the top of each tank accessed from inside under the 'mid ships counter (bronze opening valve). Procedure is: prior to launch, open vents and remove the plugs. Launch boat. Tanks fill (and empty) in about ten minutes. They will fill completely. Close vents and screw in plugs. You need to wade in of course to replace the plugs unless you have a dinghy. You're all set. When taking out, we usually open the vents, then pull the boat out and then remove the plugs on the ramp. I trailer her behind an F-150 so there is plenty of reserve power to pull the extra weight a few feet. I would not recommend trailering her any distance with tanks full to save needless stress on the hull.

When I get home I always mop out any remaining water (about a quart)with a sponge by removing a 6" opening cleaning/inspection port installed on the top of each tank. In storage, I leave the screw-in lids off for ventilation. The interior of her tanks are coated with many, many coats of epoxy.

This arrangement doesn't allow water that gets into the boat to escape; it must be mopped up. However, we never have had water inside the boat, except once when we left the boat to run errands with the companionway wide open and a heavy thunderstorm struck. With the cover Mason designed, it stays snug and dry. Ours doesn't live outside when not sailing but if she did I would spend the money for a good cover.

If you pursue this with a view of allowing water to drain from the inside I might add that as designed the three athwartships structural members do not have limber holes which would be needed as a means to drain water to the deepest part of the hull. Of you do this you may need to increase their vertical dimension somewhat.

--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld

---

From: bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Mon Apr 09 04:15:09 2012
Subject: [bolger] Whalewatcher modifications

 

Hi Patrick,

A number of modifications to Whalewatcher were mooted back inhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/message/64115quite soon after your first big trip report. Two things in particular were raised:

1. The leeboards were too narrow.
2. The rudder was too small.

Were any of those earlier mooted modifications undertaken or can I infer from your comments below, that in the end, the only changes that you felt really needed to be done were those you've listed below. In other words, you've adjusted to Utilis rather than the other way around!

Also interested in how the water ballast filling and emptying procedure works. To fill do you:

1. Open a plug inside the boat in the centre of the ballast tank's upper surface. If this is the way its done then any rain that gets into the boat's cabin would automatically drain out through the ballast tank when the boat is being stored outside. That would be a big plus for me, knowing that I would never need to worry about rainwater building up inside the cabin when the boat is not being used.
2. Open plug/s port and/or starboard and wait for the ballast tank to fill. Do the unballasted parts of the boat fore and aft of the ballast tank support the boat when the ballast tank is open, in which case, I'd guess, you would have to add the last few gallons yourself manually with a bucket?

To empty do you:

1. Allow the tank to purge itself as you pull the boat out of the water on it's trailer or...

2. Use a bilge pump to drain the tank while still afloat?

A final question, have you ever tried sailing to windward in the really shallow water that it's alleged the bowboard will let you sail in, say 18 inches? My local sailing haunt is Lake Ellesmere, just outside Christchurch, New Zealand (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Ellesmere_/_Te_Waihora). The lake is very shallow, mostly 4 foot deep, but also quite large at 9 miles wide and 18 miles long. I can sail far and wide in my Michalak Philsboat (I've NEVER seen another sailboat because I think it's too shallow for anything but specialised shoal draft sailing craft), but at 15'4" she's too slow to go anywhere fast.

Cheers,

Rob.

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Connor, Patrick" <pconnor@...> wrote:
>
> To your questions, the stringers on mine are old growth, vertical grain
> fir. Tim Anderson, who built the hull in SoCal, had a big pile of it and
> used it for all of the solid wood structural elements. The bits that
> Mason added are Mahogany or Oak. Plywood for the hull was 1/2" fir,
> older stuff and pretty good as far as fir goes, but by the time I got
> the hull, was checked inside, even though it had been coated with epoxy
> (no 'glass inside). Mason recoated the interior (I believe), sanded,
> painted and so far no additional checking. Outside, Tim did a very good
> job coating with epoxy and F/G and there was no checking whatsover-and
> none thus far. Tight and strong. The bottom is three layers of 1/2" Ply
> (instead of two by the plans) and three layers of 10-oz F/G cloth- it
> isn't going anywhere.
>
> Tim departed on the plans by using a foam-cored upper deck with 1-by fir
> stringers, clad in 1/4" okume both inside and outside, for additional
> flotation high in emergency situations. Phil alluded to this change in
> his analysis of the design. Tim also added a full width thwart in
> cockpit about at the mizzen mast step in order to add additional
> stiffness in the aft part of the hull, which it most certainly does.
> Phil's thwart for the mast step is not drawn to full width. I think this
> too is a good change. Tim is an experienced professional boatbuilder who
> had built several Bolger boats over the years and had his own notions of
> strength. I know he consulted periodically with Phil, but do not know on
> what specifics.
>
> When Phil was on the boat, he asked if the plans had called for the
> solid bulkheads in the two that make up the fore and aft faces of the
> galley, as opposed to having cutouts like Jochems, so a person sitting
> in the aft part of the cabin could see forward. I told him the plans
> called for solid. His response: "That was an oversight." So there ya go.
> I think the cutouts would be a desirable change. Mason and I also
> decided that the windows facing forward into the bow well should open
> outwards, to allow for ventilation, and Mason installed them so. This
> too was a good change. Mason also directed the fabrication of a very
> clever canvas cover for the center opening that works like a charm and
> does not leak a drop, even in the heaviest downpour. This has been
> tested many times.
>
> Put a flexible rubber flap on the underside of the hull to cover the bow
> well drain hole so waves won't geyser into the bow well. Make sure to
> make that bow center board (you will need it to go to windward), and
> while you are at it, a filler, otherwise the bow well and everything in
> it WILL be wet.
>
> That's it. This is a great design and a great boat. There needs to be
> more of them! Phil commented when he sailed in her he was glad it got
> built- it was an important design.
>
> Patrick A. Connor

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Connor, Patrick" <pconnor@...> wrote:
>
> To your questions, the stringers on mine are old growth, vertical grain
> fir. Tim Anderson, who built the hull in SoCal, had a big pile of it and
> used it for all of the solid wood structural elements. The bits that
> Mason added are Mahogany or Oak. Plywood for the hull was 1/2" fir,
> older stuff and pretty good as far as fir goes, but by the time I got
> the hull, was checked inside, even though it had been coated with epoxy
> (no 'glass inside). Mason recoated the interior (I believe), sanded,
> painted and so far no additional checking. Outside, Tim did a very good
> job coating with epoxy and F/G and there was no checking whatsover-and
> none thus far. Tight and strong. The bottom is three layers of 1/2" Ply
> (instead of two by the plans) and three layers of 10-oz F/G cloth- it
> isn't going anywhere.
>
> Tim departed on the plans by using a foam-cored upper deck with 1-by fir
> stringers, clad in 1/4" okume both inside and outside, for additional
> flotation high in emergency situations. Phil alluded to this change in
> his analysis of the design. Tim also added a full width thwart in
> cockpit about at the mizzen mast step in order to add additional
> stiffness in the aft part of the hull, which it most certainly does.
> Phil's thwart for the mast step is not drawn to full width. I think this
> too is a good change. Tim is an experienced professional boatbuilder who
> had built several Bolger boats over the years and had his own notions of
> strength. I know he consulted periodically with Phil, but do not know on
> what specifics.
>
> When Phil was on the boat, he asked if the plans had called for the
> solid bulkheads in the two that make up the fore and aft faces of the
> galley, as opposed to having cutouts like Jochems, so a person sitting
> in the aft part of the cabin could see forward. I told him the plans
> called for solid. His response: "That was an oversight." So there ya go.
> I think the cutouts would be a desirable change. Mason and I also
> decided that the windows facing forward into the bow well should open
> outwards, to allow for ventilation, and Mason installed them so. This
> too was a good change. Mason also directed the fabrication of a very
> clever canvas cover for the center opening that works like a charm and
> does not leak a drop, even in the heaviest downpour. This has been
> tested many times.
>
> Put a flexible rubber flap on the underside of the hull to cover the bow
> well drain hole so waves won't geyser into the bow well. Make sure to
> make that bow center board (you will need it to go to windward), and
> while you are at it, a filler, otherwise the bow well and everything in
> it WILL be wet.
>
> That's it. This is a great design and a great boat. There needs to be
> more of them! Phil commented when he sailed in her he was glad it got
> built- it was an important design.
>
> Patrick A. Connor

George's daughters were gracious enough to share the correspondence between their father and Phil with me, which is revealing of the thought and collaberation behind this design. Last year I was pleased and proud to return the favor by taking  them sailing on Utilis when on a weeks cruise on the Chesapeake with one of my friends. It was an emotional thing to say the least when they first saw her, and the whole project was obviously a very, very big deal for George and his family.
--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld

----- Original Message -----
From: bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sun Mar 18 18:58:35 2012
Subject: Re: [bolger] Posted construction photos of orginal Whalewatcher

I'm excited about the ww design too. I have a pile of 1/2 " ply and the
WW is on the short list of designs. Is it mostly 1/2 ply...what did you
use for stringers??? Can't wait to see your pics Mike


thewildernessvoice wrote:
>
> It has taken me a long time, but I purchased a scanner and have posted
> construction photos of the original whalewatcher. One of them has Geo
> Anger who commissioned the design and I think he also commissioned
> birdwatcher. The story is in Boats of a Different Kind book.
> George passes away shortly after the photo was taken. His wife sent me
> the photos and a nice note in 1991.
>
> If all goes well will be starting my WW after holding onto the plans
> for over twenty years. I am interested in any information on suggested
> improvements or reaction to Whalewatcher.
>
> I hope to document my experience as well. If I complete this boat, it
> will be the second completion. I understand only 3 sets of plans were
> sold.
> Feel free to email me, but the scanned photo in the Whalewatcher
> Launch album is the same one I have scanned at full resolution.
>
>



------------------------------------

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>
> It has taken me a long time, but I purchased a scanner and have posted
> construction photos of the original whalewatcher. One of them has Geo
> Anger who commissioned the design and I think he also commissioned
> birdwatcher. The story is in Boats of a Different Kind book.
> George passes away shortly after the photo was taken. His wife sent me
> the photos and a nice note in 1991.
>
> If all goes well will be starting my WW after holding onto the plans
> for over twenty years. I am interested in any information on suggested
> improvements or reaction to Whalewatcher.
>
> I hope to document my experience as well. If I complete this boat, it
> will be the second completion. I understand only 3 sets of plans were
> sold.
> Feel free to email me, but the scanned photo in the Whalewatcher
> Launch album is the same one I have scanned at full resolution.
>
>