Fw: [bolger] Re: Bending AS29 bottom plate

 
----- Original Message -----
Sent:Monday, May 14, 2012 8:31 PM
Subject:Re: [bolger] Re: Bending AS29 bottom plate

Chris,
are the framing and bulkheads steel as well ?
How would you insulate those cold/warm-bridges ?

We've noticed how a 65' Phil Rhodes motorsailer rusted out along above and below the waterline, apparently hidden by joiner work.  Exquisite steelwork on display literally recovering these section with compound-curved 3/8" steel...and then fairing compound of course.

Susanne Altenburger, PB&F
----- Original Message -----
Sent:Monday, May 14, 2012 1:39 PM
Subject:RE: [bolger] Re: Bending AS29 bottom plate

I have a steel long keel gaff cutter which has insulation (50mm Celotex) and a 20mm air gap under tongue and groove 10mm pine boarding. The insulation extends just below the water line but the bilges are not insulated.

 

I am UK based but have spent time in Norway and colder parts. Have never had a cold problem or condensation. I leave books, charts and bedding on board over winter. When really cold, the wood burning stove heats the boat up quickly and then one is stripping off ‘cos it’s too hot!

 

Kind regards

 

Chris Harnan

 

From:bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Ofphilbolger@...
Sent:14 May 2012 17:46
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Re: Bending AS29 bottom plate

 

 

You may need to re-think the idea on a number of points.
If picked up at a bulkhead not much should happen structurally.
Steel and plywood expand and contract differently I believe.
How do you address the insulation-issue again by going to all-steel below the seam ?
Susanne Altenburger, PB&F

----- Original Message -----

Sent:Monday, May 14, 2012 11:59 AM

Subject:[bolger] Re: Bending AS29 bottom plate

 

 

In seeing pictures of a as29 build I noticed that the bottom and a small part of sides are built upside down and then turned over and the rest built. I would propose that it be built of steel and the rest be built of plywood, this gets rid of the insulation problems of steel and and the not insignificant problem of point loading the chines when picked up by a travel lift. This causes the chine leakage
that destroys many plywood boats. What do you think Suzanne?
this should be able to be done reasonably by a small commercial welding shop.
mike

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, <philbolger@...> wrote:
>
> You've got to match the steel-ballast weight.
> Then you've got to decide how much of her under-water body you'd want to cover.
> Then it is up to running square-footage.
> Then one would decide on local thickness.
> Etc.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mike Allison
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, May 14, 2012 8:40 AM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Bending AS29 bottom plate
>
>
>
> On 05/14/2012 06:17 AM, philbolger@... wrote:
>
> Copper plate is even more expensive but will produce live-long savings in never having to belly-paint her. Copper-plating everything up to boot-top level would be ultimate 'hybrid', assuming you'd be interested in carrying a part of your 'wealth' around doing triple-duty as ballast, belly-armor, and 'piggy-bank' asset that is harder to steal than most such 'reserves'.
>
> Susanne Altenburger, PB&F
>
> How thin or thick would you say the copper plate should be.
>
>
>
> Mike Allison... (North of Kansas City Mo. USA)
>