Re: Surf's Up II - Progress Report
Here's the link to the construction pictures:
http://www.egroups.com/files/bolger/Surf%27s+Up/
Pete Reynolds
http://www.egroups.com/files/bolger/Surf%27s+Up/
Pete Reynolds
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, pmcrannell@y... wrote:
> Hello Group,
>
> I've just added a folder to the files called Surf's Up. It has a
> bunch of construction pictures of my Surf.
>
> I've finally gotten to the painting stage! She has two coats of
> primer, inside and out, right now. Progress has been a little slow
> because of the frequent rains we've had here, in Annapolis,
Maryland,
> this summer. The remaining tasks are the finish paint coats,
leeboard
> and rudder, and laminating and shaping the mast. I think she'll
> launch in two weeks (given weather and a crazy work schedule).
>
> Things I've learned, or relearned, as the case may be:
>
> 1. I don't like Titebond II, and switched back to Weldwood Plastic
> Resin. Titebond softens up when it gets wet, and I don't know if it
> holds its strength in this condition. Plus, once mixed, weldwood is
> easier to handle and clean up the amount that squishes from the
joint.
>
> 2. Drywall deck screws are great for clamping, but I still needed C-
> clamps where the wood was bent under a fair amount of force. The
> drywall screws didn't have enough umph to hold some things
together.
> They were awkward to drive when I needed a hand to keep the pieces
> close together. I could get a C-clamp on much more easily, and then
> crank the pieces together.
>
> 3. The fiberglass/polyester resin butt joints were far easier to do
> than plywood butt blocks. No fooling around with clenching nails
> over, or driving a ton of small screws. The taped buttd also fair
> into a nice curve, no hard spot at the joint (as has happened on a
> few other boats I've built). I did have a problem with slow curing,
> even though I used a hot mixture, on hot days. It took HOURS to
kick.
> It hardened up once it kicked, but I sweated it for a while. I
think
> the HIGH humidity might have had something to do with it. Does
anyone
> have any ideas why this might have been a problem?
>
> 4. I tried polyurethane sealer on all wood parts, two coats. It
dries
> to a nice, hard surface that sands smooth easily. The primer is
Kilz
> water-based primer. This stuff is hard! It's thick, and dries so
fast
> that brushmarks don't have time to settle. The second coat was put
on
> like varnish, flowing it on from a heavily loaded brush. It turned
> out much better than the first coat. I'll report on how the finish
> holds up (I'll use latex semi-gloss trim paint).
>
> 5. Using all hand tools and hand-held power tools was a piece of
> cake. However, I still wish I had a tablesaw. It would make many
cuts
> far easier to do.
>
> 6. I used old cat litter and laundry detergent bottles for
flotation.
> I've been saving them for this job, and stuffed bunch into the
> forward and after compartments.
>
> Well, that's all for now. I hope the photographs will inspire
> others to tackle the Surf. I think she's sorely neglected by the
> group!
>
> Take care,
> Pete Reynolds
. I remember having this problem when doing some bodywork on an old
car of mine. Took about 3 days to cure. I think that polyester resin
is only supposed to stay fresh for a year or so. In any case, mine
lasted maybe 3 years and then let go while I was driving through a
puddle that was deeper than I thought. Instant geyser under my feet,
and then 4" of water in the car! Distracting at 30mph. Sorry to be
slightly OT.
You did say polyester resin, didn't you?
P.S. I think you should store your boat out of the weather to protect
the polyester.
car of mine. Took about 3 days to cure. I think that polyester resin
is only supposed to stay fresh for a year or so. In any case, mine
lasted maybe 3 years and then let go while I was driving through a
puddle that was deeper than I thought. Instant geyser under my feet,
and then 4" of water in the car! Distracting at 30mph. Sorry to be
slightly OT.
You did say polyester resin, didn't you?
P.S. I think you should store your boat out of the weather to protect
the polyester.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, pmcrannell@y... wrote:
> snip
>snip I did have a problem with slow curing,
> even though I used a hot mixture, on hot days. It took HOURS to
kick.
> It hardened up once it kicked, but I sweated it for a while. I
think
> the HIGH humidity might have had something to do with it. Does
anyone
> have any ideas why this might have been a problem?
>
>snip
Hello Group,
I've just added a folder to the files called Surf's Up. It has a
bunch of construction pictures of my Surf.
I've finally gotten to the painting stage! She has two coats of
primer, inside and out, right now. Progress has been a little slow
because of the frequent rains we've had here, in Annapolis, Maryland,
this summer. The remaining tasks are the finish paint coats, leeboard
and rudder, and laminating and shaping the mast. I think she'll
launch in two weeks (given weather and a crazy work schedule).
Things I've learned, or relearned, as the case may be:
1. I don't like Titebond II, and switched back to Weldwood Plastic
Resin. Titebond softens up when it gets wet, and I don't know if it
holds its strength in this condition. Plus, once mixed, weldwood is
easier to handle and clean up the amount that squishes from the joint.
2. Drywall deck screws are great for clamping, but I still needed C-
clamps where the wood was bent under a fair amount of force. The
drywall screws didn't have enough umph to hold some things together.
They were awkward to drive when I needed a hand to keep the pieces
close together. I could get a C-clamp on much more easily, and then
crank the pieces together.
3. The fiberglass/polyester resin butt joints were far easier to do
than plywood butt blocks. No fooling around with clenching nails
over, or driving a ton of small screws. The taped buttd also fair
into a nice curve, no hard spot at the joint (as has happened on a
few other boats I've built). I did have a problem with slow curing,
even though I used a hot mixture, on hot days. It took HOURS to kick.
It hardened up once it kicked, but I sweated it for a while. I think
the HIGH humidity might have had something to do with it. Does anyone
have any ideas why this might have been a problem?
4. I tried polyurethane sealer on all wood parts, two coats. It dries
to a nice, hard surface that sands smooth easily. The primer is Kilz
water-based primer. This stuff is hard! It's thick, and dries so fast
that brushmarks don't have time to settle. The second coat was put on
like varnish, flowing it on from a heavily loaded brush. It turned
out much better than the first coat. I'll report on how the finish
holds up (I'll use latex semi-gloss trim paint).
5. Using all hand tools and hand-held power tools was a piece of
cake. However, I still wish I had a tablesaw. It would make many cuts
far easier to do.
6. I used old cat litter and laundry detergent bottles for flotation.
I've been saving them for this job, and stuffed bunch into the
forward and after compartments.
Well, that's all for now. I hope the photographs will inspire
others to tackle the Surf. I think she's sorely neglected by the
group!
Take care,
Pete Reynolds
I've just added a folder to the files called Surf's Up. It has a
bunch of construction pictures of my Surf.
I've finally gotten to the painting stage! She has two coats of
primer, inside and out, right now. Progress has been a little slow
because of the frequent rains we've had here, in Annapolis, Maryland,
this summer. The remaining tasks are the finish paint coats, leeboard
and rudder, and laminating and shaping the mast. I think she'll
launch in two weeks (given weather and a crazy work schedule).
Things I've learned, or relearned, as the case may be:
1. I don't like Titebond II, and switched back to Weldwood Plastic
Resin. Titebond softens up when it gets wet, and I don't know if it
holds its strength in this condition. Plus, once mixed, weldwood is
easier to handle and clean up the amount that squishes from the joint.
2. Drywall deck screws are great for clamping, but I still needed C-
clamps where the wood was bent under a fair amount of force. The
drywall screws didn't have enough umph to hold some things together.
They were awkward to drive when I needed a hand to keep the pieces
close together. I could get a C-clamp on much more easily, and then
crank the pieces together.
3. The fiberglass/polyester resin butt joints were far easier to do
than plywood butt blocks. No fooling around with clenching nails
over, or driving a ton of small screws. The taped buttd also fair
into a nice curve, no hard spot at the joint (as has happened on a
few other boats I've built). I did have a problem with slow curing,
even though I used a hot mixture, on hot days. It took HOURS to kick.
It hardened up once it kicked, but I sweated it for a while. I think
the HIGH humidity might have had something to do with it. Does anyone
have any ideas why this might have been a problem?
4. I tried polyurethane sealer on all wood parts, two coats. It dries
to a nice, hard surface that sands smooth easily. The primer is Kilz
water-based primer. This stuff is hard! It's thick, and dries so fast
that brushmarks don't have time to settle. The second coat was put on
like varnish, flowing it on from a heavily loaded brush. It turned
out much better than the first coat. I'll report on how the finish
holds up (I'll use latex semi-gloss trim paint).
5. Using all hand tools and hand-held power tools was a piece of
cake. However, I still wish I had a tablesaw. It would make many cuts
far easier to do.
6. I used old cat litter and laundry detergent bottles for flotation.
I've been saving them for this job, and stuffed bunch into the
forward and after compartments.
Well, that's all for now. I hope the photographs will inspire
others to tackle the Surf. I think she's sorely neglected by the
group!
Take care,
Pete Reynolds