Re: paint
Jason,
No problem at all with the single-part, marine enamel. Usually the
worst paint to spray is latex because of the thickness and the
particles. But I've even had very good luck spraying latex by
thinning (liberally) and filtering.
I'm not sure about the type of sprayer the Wagner is, but the one I'm
using is a Coleman Powermate - the heavy duty model. The local
stores here typically carry three models: a cheap one (o.k., but you
won't be happy for very long), a decent grade (usually called 'heavy
duty'), and an expensive one (High Volume, Low Pressure (HVLP) like
is used to paint cars).
There are two broad catagories of sprayer: airless and air. As the
names imply, the former requires no compressed air (it forces paint
out using a little diaphram) and the latter requires compressed air.
The airless sprayers have their place, but for the most versatility
and best 'bang for your buck', I'd go with an air sprayer.
It's nowhere near as complicated as we might all make it sound here.
You could learn a great deal by stopping by the local Home Depot,
Lowes, or whatever you have in your area.
Then just grab some scraps, and give it a try. I think you'll be
very happy with the results.
Cheers,
Jim
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
No problem at all with the single-part, marine enamel. Usually the
worst paint to spray is latex because of the thickness and the
particles. But I've even had very good luck spraying latex by
thinning (liberally) and filtering.
I'm not sure about the type of sprayer the Wagner is, but the one I'm
using is a Coleman Powermate - the heavy duty model. The local
stores here typically carry three models: a cheap one (o.k., but you
won't be happy for very long), a decent grade (usually called 'heavy
duty'), and an expensive one (High Volume, Low Pressure (HVLP) like
is used to paint cars).
There are two broad catagories of sprayer: airless and air. As the
names imply, the former requires no compressed air (it forces paint
out using a little diaphram) and the latter requires compressed air.
The airless sprayers have their place, but for the most versatility
and best 'bang for your buck', I'd go with an air sprayer.
It's nowhere near as complicated as we might all make it sound here.
You could learn a great deal by stopping by the local Home Depot,
Lowes, or whatever you have in your area.
Then just grab some scraps, and give it a try. I think you'll be
very happy with the results.
Cheers,
Jim
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
> Jim-stuff
> Tell me more about the sprayer and application. Does it work with
> marine single part paint......i've allready picked up a gallon of
> the stuff. I've foam rolled and i've brushed and i'm not a fan of
> either. 20-30 dollars for a sprayer? Like a little wagner job? Good
> quality brushes for the job would cover half the purchase price for
> a 25 dollar sprayer. I've spent quite a bit of time fairing up
> so i'd like to do the finish right(must silence the critics and arm
> chair boat builders).
> Thanks,
> Jason
Jim-
Tell me more about the sprayer and application. Does it work with
marine single part paint......i've allready picked up a gallon of
the stuff. I've foam rolled and i've brushed and i'm not a fan of
either. 20-30 dollars for a sprayer? Like a little wagner job? Good
quality brushes for the job would cover half the purchase price for
a 25 dollar sprayer. I've spent quite a bit of time fairing up stuff
so i'd like to do the finish right(must silence the critics and arm
chair boat builders).
Thanks,
Jason
Tell me more about the sprayer and application. Does it work with
marine single part paint......i've allready picked up a gallon of
the stuff. I've foam rolled and i've brushed and i'm not a fan of
either. 20-30 dollars for a sprayer? Like a little wagner job? Good
quality brushes for the job would cover half the purchase price for
a 25 dollar sprayer. I've spent quite a bit of time fairing up stuff
so i'd like to do the finish right(must silence the critics and arm
chair boat builders).
Thanks,
Jason
Hey Jason,
I haven't yet decided what finish I'm putting on my Micro, but I have
decided to spray instead of brush. I used to brush everything, but
last summer I bit the bullet, bought a sprayer, and I'm in awe of the
difference. It doesn't need to be a high volume, low pressure
sprayer (nice if you have the cash, though). A moderate quality
sprayer will only run you $20-30, and it's very well worth it.
Just my thoughts.
Cheers,
Jim
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
I haven't yet decided what finish I'm putting on my Micro, but I have
decided to spray instead of brush. I used to brush everything, but
last summer I bit the bullet, bought a sprayer, and I'm in awe of the
difference. It doesn't need to be a high volume, low pressure
sprayer (nice if you have the cash, though). A moderate quality
sprayer will only run you $20-30, and it's very well worth it.
Just my thoughts.
Cheers,
Jim
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
wrote:
> I'm building a boat out of mdo and tested some paint on some scrapsbrush
> with and without epoxy coating.
> I used interlux brightsides undercoat primer for use with single
> part polyurathane interlux bright side......on my test batch i
> did'nt have any interlux brushing liquid #333 but i just wanted to
> try it. Primer and topcoat applied nicely with little signs of
> marks, however i'll use the brushing thinner when i do the boat.The
> primer does'nt seem to build or fair and requires a little scuffwith
> between coats. There are some hi build and no sand primers but they
> where pretty pricey. I got a better finish on the epoxy coated
> surface but it's a negligible difference. I think i'll be happy
> this stuff. Anyone know how tough it is? I'm planing on white, withI
> cetol light trim, and black bottom paint and boot strip
> (boring!).....hope the tanbark sets it off. I think white does'nt
> show the dings too bad.....and since i ram docks on a regular bases
> this is my best bet. I beleive my boats gravitate towards barnacle
> encrusted pilings.
> Let me know what you use and how it goes, this is my second shot at
> not sloping paint on and i'm leary. I helped my dad put awlgrip on
> his stonehorse and that was a dirty, hard job, but it looked good.
> just don't have the patience for that stuff.
> Jason
Hi Grant,
My paint experience is limited to 7 or 8 boats some separated by 40
years or so.
My first suggestion and perhaps I am paranoid about it is "read the
instructions on the can". Granted that a lot of the material written
on the can is the lawyers trying to avoid liability, however, the how
to information should be heeded and if you have questions call the
tech support numbers that are available.
My first boats were painted with standard marine paints. This resulted
in an easily maintained relatively cheap finish.
I have used Petit Easypoxy, Interthane Plus, Interthane Brightside and
Sears Weatherbeater house paint. All were satisfactory as finishes
with the following caveats. The Petit Easypoxy had no trouble with
epoxy after the amine blush was completely removed and the surface
sanded. It did however fade badly but it was more of a change of
color, it still looked good. Interthane Plus is a beatiful glossy
finish that for light colors can be rolled on. It is expensive to
repair (and for original finish also) since you have to buy a quart of
two part paint to do the job. Brightside is also a nice finish but the
primer can says to "sand to translucence" this means sand most of the
primer off. Brightside primer has microspheres which absorb water. I
had blisters all over the deck of my Bobcat. Sand most of the primer
off, let it cure under cover the longer the better then finish. My
latest project, a refinishing of Hawkeye, I used Sears Weatherbeater.
I like the semi gloss and I can redo the topsides in a morning when
needed. If you want the hi gloss finish think Interthane Plus.
The other caveat is though the paints seem dry in an afternoon they
all seem to need a week or so to completely cure. Don't paint until
the primer has cured for a week, don't move the boat into the sun
until the finish coat has had a week to cure. The finish needs time to
be walked on.
Bob Chamberland
My paint experience is limited to 7 or 8 boats some separated by 40
years or so.
My first suggestion and perhaps I am paranoid about it is "read the
instructions on the can". Granted that a lot of the material written
on the can is the lawyers trying to avoid liability, however, the how
to information should be heeded and if you have questions call the
tech support numbers that are available.
My first boats were painted with standard marine paints. This resulted
in an easily maintained relatively cheap finish.
I have used Petit Easypoxy, Interthane Plus, Interthane Brightside and
Sears Weatherbeater house paint. All were satisfactory as finishes
with the following caveats. The Petit Easypoxy had no trouble with
epoxy after the amine blush was completely removed and the surface
sanded. It did however fade badly but it was more of a change of
color, it still looked good. Interthane Plus is a beatiful glossy
finish that for light colors can be rolled on. It is expensive to
repair (and for original finish also) since you have to buy a quart of
two part paint to do the job. Brightside is also a nice finish but the
primer can says to "sand to translucence" this means sand most of the
primer off. Brightside primer has microspheres which absorb water. I
had blisters all over the deck of my Bobcat. Sand most of the primer
off, let it cure under cover the longer the better then finish. My
latest project, a refinishing of Hawkeye, I used Sears Weatherbeater.
I like the semi gloss and I can redo the topsides in a morning when
needed. If you want the hi gloss finish think Interthane Plus.
The other caveat is though the paints seem dry in an afternoon they
all seem to need a week or so to completely cure. Don't paint until
the primer has cured for a week, don't move the boat into the sun
until the finish coat has had a week to cure. The finish needs time to
be walked on.
Bob Chamberland
I'm building a boat out of mdo and tested some paint on some scraps
with and without epoxy coating.
I used interlux brightsides undercoat primer for use with single
part polyurathane interlux bright side......on my test batch i
did'nt have any interlux brushing liquid #333 but i just wanted to
try it. Primer and topcoat applied nicely with little signs of brush
marks, however i'll use the brushing thinner when i do the boat. The
primer does'nt seem to build or fair and requires a little scuff
between coats. There are some hi build and no sand primers but they
where pretty pricey. I got a better finish on the epoxy coated
surface but it's a negligible difference. I think i'll be happy with
this stuff. Anyone know how tough it is? I'm planing on white, with
cetol light trim, and black bottom paint and boot strip
(boring!).....hope the tanbark sets it off. I think white does'nt
show the dings too bad.....and since i ram docks on a regular bases
this is my best bet. I beleive my boats gravitate towards barnacle
encrusted pilings.
Let me know what you use and how it goes, this is my second shot at
not sloping paint on and i'm leary. I helped my dad put awlgrip on
his stonehorse and that was a dirty, hard job, but it looked good. I
just don't have the patience for that stuff.
Jason
with and without epoxy coating.
I used interlux brightsides undercoat primer for use with single
part polyurathane interlux bright side......on my test batch i
did'nt have any interlux brushing liquid #333 but i just wanted to
try it. Primer and topcoat applied nicely with little signs of brush
marks, however i'll use the brushing thinner when i do the boat. The
primer does'nt seem to build or fair and requires a little scuff
between coats. There are some hi build and no sand primers but they
where pretty pricey. I got a better finish on the epoxy coated
surface but it's a negligible difference. I think i'll be happy with
this stuff. Anyone know how tough it is? I'm planing on white, with
cetol light trim, and black bottom paint and boot strip
(boring!).....hope the tanbark sets it off. I think white does'nt
show the dings too bad.....and since i ram docks on a regular bases
this is my best bet. I beleive my boats gravitate towards barnacle
encrusted pilings.
Let me know what you use and how it goes, this is my second shot at
not sloping paint on and i'm leary. I helped my dad put awlgrip on
his stonehorse and that was a dirty, hard job, but it looked good. I
just don't have the patience for that stuff.
Jason
I am looking for some suggestions as to which kind of paint and primer I
should use on my above the waterline MDO. I have converted a 22 x 8
sailboat into a displacement hull cabin cruiser. The hull is GRP and the
cabin and cockpit floor are MDO and I am almost ready for paint.
Grant in sunny Vermont (today anyway :))
should use on my above the waterline MDO. I have converted a 22 x 8
sailboat into a displacement hull cabin cruiser. The hull is GRP and the
cabin and cockpit floor are MDO and I am almost ready for paint.
Grant in sunny Vermont (today anyway :))
I've observed different results with different brands of latex paint.
Also, it takes a while to harden up. ALso, I just noticed the paint
wasn't sticking well to PL Premium.
Also, it takes a while to harden up. ALso, I just noticed the paint
wasn't sticking well to PL Premium.
--- In bolger@y..., "guntercb" <chrisfishinggunter@y...> wrote:
> Charles,
>
> I cannot answer about deck paint. But I built a canoe about 8
months
> ago and used extor latex house paint on it. The inside of the canoe
> is holding up just fine, but the outside is not. Exteror Latex
house
> paint just doesn't have good abrasion resistance. Everytime I scrap
> bottom or a rock paint is scraped off. Only wish I knew that before
> I painted the outside.
>
> Good luck,
> Chris
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "chodges31711" <chodges@a...> wrote:
> > Is latex deck paint any better than latex house paint for a non-
> deck
> > area? Is the primer different?
> >
> > Charles
Charles,
I cannot answer about deck paint. But I built a canoe about 8 months
ago and used extor latex house paint on it. The inside of the canoe
is holding up just fine, but the outside is not. Exteror Latex house
paint just doesn't have good abrasion resistance. Everytime I scrap
bottom or a rock paint is scraped off. Only wish I knew that before
I painted the outside.
Good luck,
Chris
I cannot answer about deck paint. But I built a canoe about 8 months
ago and used extor latex house paint on it. The inside of the canoe
is holding up just fine, but the outside is not. Exteror Latex house
paint just doesn't have good abrasion resistance. Everytime I scrap
bottom or a rock paint is scraped off. Only wish I knew that before
I painted the outside.
Good luck,
Chris
--- In bolger@y..., "chodges31711" <chodges@a...> wrote:
> Is latex deck paint any better than latex house paint for a non-
deck
> area? Is the primer different?
>
> Charles
Is latex deck paint any better than latex house paint for a non-deck
area? Is the primer different?
Charles
area? Is the primer different?
Charles
Have been painting my Nymph. Had found only primer I had that would
stick to the epoxy is this California Troubleshooter latex stuff.
Wish
I'd put it on in less of a hurry and with a better brush to reduce
the
brush marks. Sanded it, which helps a little.
Painted outside with oil based silver paint per a remark in one of
Bolger's books. Seemed to cover extremely well, not drip, and didn't
take much paint (well under 1 pint for two coats). Started on the
inside today with gray oil based paint. Drippy and did not cover
well, and took maybe 50% more to do one coat. I get the feeling that
in many ways latex paints have undergone a lot of development in the
last several decades, compared to oil, or maybe I just have some bad
paint. Would have used silver on the inside but I thought it would be
hard on the eyes and rub off on things. On the outside I'm hoping it
will be less vulnerable to the weather and will block uv from the
epoxy better. Maybe I should try silver latex next time.
stick to the epoxy is this California Troubleshooter latex stuff.
Wish
I'd put it on in less of a hurry and with a better brush to reduce
the
brush marks. Sanded it, which helps a little.
Painted outside with oil based silver paint per a remark in one of
Bolger's books. Seemed to cover extremely well, not drip, and didn't
take much paint (well under 1 pint for two coats). Started on the
inside today with gray oil based paint. Drippy and did not cover
well, and took maybe 50% more to do one coat. I get the feeling that
in many ways latex paints have undergone a lot of development in the
last several decades, compared to oil, or maybe I just have some bad
paint. Would have used silver on the inside but I thought it would be
hard on the eyes and rub off on things. On the outside I'm hoping it
will be less vulnerable to the weather and will block uv from the
epoxy better. Maybe I should try silver latex next time.