RE: [bolger] Pouring lead
In 1973, my parents bought bought an unfinished fiberglass hull from
Islander Yachts (they needed cash for reorganization, and went belly-up
completely many years later). They hauled the 37' sloop, in a cradle, into
our backyard in California. For the next three years, my parents spent every
evening and weekend working on the boat. It was launched in '76, and then
they spent every evening and weekend working on it at the dock.
One of the things that needed to be done was fill the keel with ballast.
Being cheap, my Dad sent my Mom out to get used tire weights from garages.
For weeks, I went with her (I was 6 at the time) to service stations all
over Southern California picking up weights for free.
My dad setup a smelting area in the backyard, including a sand casting pit,
and they melted each day's take into a custom fit brick. I don't know how
many bricks it took, but they were each shaped differently to fit in their
own little spot inside the 6 foot keel. As I recall my Dad sealed it up with
fiberglass, but left some access ports in case he had to add to it or
subtract from it.
To make it fun for us, we also used the setup to make custom wax candles and
such. It was loads of fun (that is, I still remember it).
As for precautions, I wasn't allowed, at 6, to melt or pour the lead; in
fact I don't recall being allowed near it, thus the wax candles to satiate
my curiosity. I am sure he took reasonable precautions and I know nobody was
hurt.
--Brian T. Carter
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Goeckermann [mailto:jim@...]
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2000 11:20 PM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Pouring lead
Greetings,
Since the clips on these weights are steel, your keel will drip rust for
eternity. If you melt them first, you "skim off" the steel which floats.
Yes, melting lead can be dangerous as you are dealing with toxins such as
arsenic, but do it in a well ventilated area and make absolutely sure that
not even a single drop of water can get into the molten lead, and you will
be OK.
--snip--
Islander Yachts (they needed cash for reorganization, and went belly-up
completely many years later). They hauled the 37' sloop, in a cradle, into
our backyard in California. For the next three years, my parents spent every
evening and weekend working on the boat. It was launched in '76, and then
they spent every evening and weekend working on it at the dock.
One of the things that needed to be done was fill the keel with ballast.
Being cheap, my Dad sent my Mom out to get used tire weights from garages.
For weeks, I went with her (I was 6 at the time) to service stations all
over Southern California picking up weights for free.
My dad setup a smelting area in the backyard, including a sand casting pit,
and they melted each day's take into a custom fit brick. I don't know how
many bricks it took, but they were each shaped differently to fit in their
own little spot inside the 6 foot keel. As I recall my Dad sealed it up with
fiberglass, but left some access ports in case he had to add to it or
subtract from it.
To make it fun for us, we also used the setup to make custom wax candles and
such. It was loads of fun (that is, I still remember it).
As for precautions, I wasn't allowed, at 6, to melt or pour the lead; in
fact I don't recall being allowed near it, thus the wax candles to satiate
my curiosity. I am sure he took reasonable precautions and I know nobody was
hurt.
--Brian T. Carter
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Goeckermann [mailto:jim@...]
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2000 11:20 PM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Pouring lead
Greetings,
Since the clips on these weights are steel, your keel will drip rust for
eternity. If you melt them first, you "skim off" the steel which floats.
Yes, melting lead can be dangerous as you are dealing with toxins such as
arsenic, but do it in a well ventilated area and make absolutely sure that
not even a single drop of water can get into the molten lead, and you will
be OK.
--snip--
I poured lead and haven't wizzle noticed baaaaa! any mooo effects....
I may have a lead on a used Micro keel, if anyone is interested, email me.
Richard Spelling,http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats
From the muddy waters of Oklahoma
Richard Spelling,http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats
From the muddy waters of Oklahoma
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Goeckermann" <jim@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2000 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Pouring lead
> Greetings,
> Since the clips on these weights are steel, your keel will drip rust for
> eternity. If you melt them first, you "skim off" the steel which floats.
> Yes, melting lead can be dangerous as you are dealing with toxins such as
> arsenic, but do it in a well ventilated area and make absolutely sure that
> not even a single drop of water can get into the molten lead, and you will
> be OK. If you suspended a piece or rebar or two in the mold you could even
> do this with multiple pours, tacking a piece of wood in to contain each
> pour. Then too, I considered that the mold could be filled with concrete
> and the wheel weights dropped into this, but I am not sure if there might
be
> drawbacks to this.
>
> A call to a steel salvage yard might find some surplus 1" or 2" steel
> which is cheaper per pound than lead. It is not hard to cut, and would
give
> your keel ballast. It could be painted or epoxied to diminish the rust
> problem. After all, there are a lot of Catalinas and West Wight Potters
> with keels that are iron, not lead. My thoughts are that it might be
easier
> to bolt or weld on some angle iron that could be drilled for attachment to
> the hull.
> Let me be the first to admit that I have not done this (though I do own
both
> the boats mentioned above), and am just sharing some thoughts prompted by
an
> ongoing case of Micro fever.....
> Jim
>
> Mike Stockstill wrote:
>
> > Hi -
> >
> > A master boatbuilder here in NC (a real one - not one of us)
> > recommends against pouring lead for health, safety, and environmental
> > reasons.
> >
> > He suggested instead to go get buckets of those lead car tire weight
> > balancing gizmos, and pound them into the mold - if necessary dump
> > some filled epoxy in I suppose.
> >
> > Just thought I would throw that one in the hat.
> >
> > M
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing
> > - stay on topic
> > - use punctuation
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> > - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
Greetings,
Since the clips on these weights are steel, your keel will drip rust for
eternity. If you melt them first, you "skim off" the steel which floats.
Yes, melting lead can be dangerous as you are dealing with toxins such as
arsenic, but do it in a well ventilated area and make absolutely sure that
not even a single drop of water can get into the molten lead, and you will
be OK. If you suspended a piece or rebar or two in the mold you could even
do this with multiple pours, tacking a piece of wood in to contain each
pour. Then too, I considered that the mold could be filled with concrete
and the wheel weights dropped into this, but I am not sure if there might be
drawbacks to this.
A call to a steel salvage yard might find some surplus 1" or 2" steel
which is cheaper per pound than lead. It is not hard to cut, and would give
your keel ballast. It could be painted or epoxied to diminish the rust
problem. After all, there are a lot of Catalinas and West Wight Potters
with keels that are iron, not lead. My thoughts are that it might be easier
to bolt or weld on some angle iron that could be drilled for attachment to
the hull.
Let me be the first to admit that I have not done this (though I do own both
the boats mentioned above), and am just sharing some thoughts prompted by an
ongoing case of Micro fever.....
Jim
Mike Stockstill wrote:
Since the clips on these weights are steel, your keel will drip rust for
eternity. If you melt them first, you "skim off" the steel which floats.
Yes, melting lead can be dangerous as you are dealing with toxins such as
arsenic, but do it in a well ventilated area and make absolutely sure that
not even a single drop of water can get into the molten lead, and you will
be OK. If you suspended a piece or rebar or two in the mold you could even
do this with multiple pours, tacking a piece of wood in to contain each
pour. Then too, I considered that the mold could be filled with concrete
and the wheel weights dropped into this, but I am not sure if there might be
drawbacks to this.
A call to a steel salvage yard might find some surplus 1" or 2" steel
which is cheaper per pound than lead. It is not hard to cut, and would give
your keel ballast. It could be painted or epoxied to diminish the rust
problem. After all, there are a lot of Catalinas and West Wight Potters
with keels that are iron, not lead. My thoughts are that it might be easier
to bolt or weld on some angle iron that could be drilled for attachment to
the hull.
Let me be the first to admit that I have not done this (though I do own both
the boats mentioned above), and am just sharing some thoughts prompted by an
ongoing case of Micro fever.....
Jim
Mike Stockstill wrote:
> Hi -
>
> A master boatbuilder here in NC (a real one - not one of us)
> recommends against pouring lead for health, safety, and environmental
> reasons.
>
> He suggested instead to go get buckets of those lead car tire weight
> balancing gizmos, and pound them into the mold - if necessary dump
> some filled epoxy in I suppose.
>
> Just thought I would throw that one in the hat.
>
> M
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.