[bolger] Re: When is a Bolger not a Bolger?
I have a few photos of construction now -- but nothing scanned yet. Basic
hull is together -- bottom skids and seams are glass-taped, frame #2 is
beefed up (see below), bulkheads are epoxy-filleted (will get glass tape
soon)-- gunwales are milled and screwed/clamped in place. Centerline deck
beams are in place. Sail is sewn (Sailrite kit, no grommets yet).
I am very pleased with the look of the changes so far (sheer/gunwale, outer
stem and crowned decks) -- and that's what matters. :)
Phil Lea
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 1999 1:27 PM
To:bolger@egroups.com
An understatement! Let's see some pictures - I assume on Dardanelle...
Gregg Carlson
At 10:38 AM 7/14/99 -0700, you wrote:
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hull is together -- bottom skids and seams are glass-taped, frame #2 is
beefed up (see below), bulkheads are epoxy-filleted (will get glass tape
soon)-- gunwales are milled and screwed/clamped in place. Centerline deck
beams are in place. Sail is sewn (Sailrite kit, no grommets yet).
I am very pleased with the look of the changes so far (sheer/gunwale, outer
stem and crowned decks) -- and that's what matters. :)
Phil Lea
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 1999 1:27 PM
To:bolger@egroups.com
An understatement! Let's see some pictures - I assume on Dardanelle...
Gregg Carlson
At 10:38 AM 7/14/99 -0700, you wrote:
>I am modifying and building a June Bug (design #400) from the "New------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Instant Boats". Here are the changes I am making to improve aesthetics
>(in my eyes):
>Heighten the sheer forward and just a little aft similar to plumb-sided
>flat iron skiff (American Small Sailing Craft). Widen the current
>38.5" by 5" to 43.5" (13% increase). Widen the other frames and
>transom proportionally. Add an outer stem that extends slightly above
>the foredeck. Widen the profile of the stem about ½" at the top to
>that the outer stem leans slightly forwards. Added a raked transom with
>a little camber - in retaining the plumb sides, this provides an nice
>transom that is narrower at the top. Built-in oar storage down
>centerline, making the center seat removable -- center frame heavily
>strengthened accordingly, oar blades through frame #1 web. Attach
>leeboard ala Michalak designed sharpie. Move the heel of the mast
>forward (>6" with rake calculated) and the partners forward to place
>some rake in the mast and CE above the after edge of board. Construct
>step to allow some future adjustment. Create watertight compartments
>fore and aft, epoxy and taped seams, and add access ports - added some
>camber to the decks (this is the greatest extension of time), tops of
>gunwales are planed outboard slightly to match camber of the deck edge
>- gunwales are also tapered fore and aft, 1.5" amidships, 1.1" forward
>and ~.9" aft. Extend the mast and sail area 67 ft2, foot is 3" longer.
> Make a solid, round mast with a 2.375" lower diameter. Mast taper is
>proportionally similar to original. Add a halyard, reef points and
>lace the sail on. No changes to the plumb sides, the rocker, the
>position of the seats and the oarlocks, the construction of the frames,
>or general method of construction, save for the stem. None of this
>costs very much so the risk is minimal - and it provides hours of fun!
>Later this year pictures will be on a new home page.
>
>It is no longer an instant boat - but I suppose it should be called a
>modified Bolger June Bug.
>
>Phil Lea
>Russellville, AR.
eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
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I have a small dinghy with the "leeboard ala Michalak" on it. It has about
10 degrees more leeway when the board is on the windward side. The tiller is
centerlined with the leeboard on the lee side, but with the board on the
weather side the tiller is about 10 degrees off.
My board has about 5% of the sail area submerged, it might work better with
more area underwater I guess... But I'm considering putting duel boards on
on it...
plea@...wrote:
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10 degrees more leeway when the board is on the windward side. The tiller is
centerlined with the leeboard on the lee side, but with the board on the
weather side the tiller is about 10 degrees off.
My board has about 5% of the sail area submerged, it might work better with
more area underwater I guess... But I'm considering putting duel boards on
on it...
plea@...wrote:
> I am modifying and building a June Bug (design #400) from the "New------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Instant Boats". Here are the changes I am making to improve aesthetics
> (in my eyes):
> Heighten the sheer forward and just a little aft similar to plumb-sided
> flat iron skiff (American Small Sailing Craft). Widen the current
> 38.5" by 5" to 43.5" (13% increase). Widen the other frames and
> transom proportionally. Add an outer stem that extends slightly above
> the foredeck. Widen the profile of the stem about ½" at the top to
> that the outer stem leans slightly forwards. Added a raked transom with
> a little camber - in retaining the plumb sides, this provides an nice
> transom that is narrower at the top. Built-in oar storage down
> centerline, making the center seat removable -- center frame heavily
> strengthened accordingly, oar blades through frame #1 web. Attach
> leeboard ala Michalak designed sharpie. Move the heel of the mast
> forward (>6" with rake calculated) and the partners forward to place
> some rake in the mast and CE above the after edge of board. Construct
> step to allow some future adjustment. Create watertight compartments
> fore and aft, epoxy and taped seams, and add access ports - added some
> camber to the decks (this is the greatest extension of time), tops of
> gunwales are planed outboard slightly to match camber of the deck edge
> - gunwales are also tapered fore and aft, 1.5" amidships, 1.1" forward
> and ~.9" aft. Extend the mast and sail area 67 ft2, foot is 3" longer.
> Make a solid, round mast with a 2.375" lower diameter. Mast taper is
> proportionally similar to original. Add a halyard, reef points and
> lace the sail on. No changes to the plumb sides, the rocker, the
> position of the seats and the oarlocks, the construction of the frames,
> or general method of construction, save for the stem. None of this
> costs very much so the risk is minimal - and it provides hours of fun!
> Later this year pictures will be on a new home page.
>
> It is no longer an instant boat - but I suppose it should be called a
> modified Bolger June Bug.
>
> Phil Lea
> Russellville, AR.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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An understatement! Let's see some pictures - I assume on Dardanelle...
Gregg Carlson
At 10:38 AM 7/14/99 -0700, you wrote:
eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
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Gregg Carlson
At 10:38 AM 7/14/99 -0700, you wrote:
>I am modifying and building a June Bug (design #400) from the "New------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Instant Boats". Here are the changes I am making to improve aesthetics
>(in my eyes):
>Heighten the sheer forward and just a little aft similar to plumb-sided
>flat iron skiff (American Small Sailing Craft). Widen the current
>38.5" by 5" to 43.5" (13% increase). Widen the other frames and
>transom proportionally. Add an outer stem that extends slightly above
>the foredeck. Widen the profile of the stem about ½" at the top to
>that the outer stem leans slightly forwards. Added a raked transom with
>a little camber - in retaining the plumb sides, this provides an nice
>transom that is narrower at the top. Built-in oar storage down
>centerline, making the center seat removable -- center frame heavily
>strengthened accordingly, oar blades through frame #1 web. Attach
>leeboard ala Michalak designed sharpie. Move the heel of the mast
>forward (>6" with rake calculated) and the partners forward to place
>some rake in the mast and CE above the after edge of board. Construct
>step to allow some future adjustment. Create watertight compartments
>fore and aft, epoxy and taped seams, and add access ports - added some
>camber to the decks (this is the greatest extension of time), tops of
>gunwales are planed outboard slightly to match camber of the deck edge
>- gunwales are also tapered fore and aft, 1.5" amidships, 1.1" forward
>and ~.9" aft. Extend the mast and sail area 67 ft2, foot is 3" longer.
> Make a solid, round mast with a 2.375" lower diameter. Mast taper is
>proportionally similar to original. Add a halyard, reef points and
>lace the sail on. No changes to the plumb sides, the rocker, the
>position of the seats and the oarlocks, the construction of the frames,
>or general method of construction, save for the stem. None of this
>costs very much so the risk is minimal - and it provides hours of fun!
>Later this year pictures will be on a new home page.
>
>It is no longer an instant boat - but I suppose it should be called a
>modified Bolger June Bug.
>
>Phil Lea
>Russellville, AR.
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Don't let the next virus knock you out! Special Offer to eGroups members
>Install @Backup by June 30th and win a $100 Gift Certificate from Amazon
>.com and @Backup free for a year!http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/363
>
>
>eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
>
>
eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
I am modifying and building a June Bug (design #400) from the "New
Instant Boats". Here are the changes I am making to improve aesthetics
(in my eyes):
Heighten the sheer forward and just a little aft similar to plumb-sided
flat iron skiff (American Small Sailing Craft). Widen the current
38.5" by 5" to 43.5" (13% increase). Widen the other frames and
transom proportionally. Add an outer stem that extends slightly above
the foredeck. Widen the profile of the stem about ½" at the top to
that the outer stem leans slightly forwards. Added a raked transom with
a little camber - in retaining the plumb sides, this provides an nice
transom that is narrower at the top. Built-in oar storage down
centerline, making the center seat removable -- center frame heavily
strengthened accordingly, oar blades through frame #1 web. Attach
leeboard ala Michalak designed sharpie. Move the heel of the mast
forward (>6" with rake calculated) and the partners forward to place
some rake in the mast and CE above the after edge of board. Construct
step to allow some future adjustment. Create watertight compartments
fore and aft, epoxy and taped seams, and add access ports - added some
camber to the decks (this is the greatest extension of time), tops of
gunwales are planed outboard slightly to match camber of the deck edge
- gunwales are also tapered fore and aft, 1.5" amidships, 1.1" forward
and ~.9" aft. Extend the mast and sail area 67 ft2, foot is 3" longer.
Make a solid, round mast with a 2.375" lower diameter. Mast taper is
proportionally similar to original. Add a halyard, reef points and
lace the sail on. No changes to the plumb sides, the rocker, the
position of the seats and the oarlocks, the construction of the frames,
or general method of construction, save for the stem. None of this
costs very much so the risk is minimal - and it provides hours of fun!
Later this year pictures will be on a new home page.
It is no longer an instant boat - but I suppose it should be called a
modified Bolger June Bug.
Phil Lea
Russellville, AR.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
Instant Boats". Here are the changes I am making to improve aesthetics
(in my eyes):
Heighten the sheer forward and just a little aft similar to plumb-sided
flat iron skiff (American Small Sailing Craft). Widen the current
38.5" by 5" to 43.5" (13% increase). Widen the other frames and
transom proportionally. Add an outer stem that extends slightly above
the foredeck. Widen the profile of the stem about ½" at the top to
that the outer stem leans slightly forwards. Added a raked transom with
a little camber - in retaining the plumb sides, this provides an nice
transom that is narrower at the top. Built-in oar storage down
centerline, making the center seat removable -- center frame heavily
strengthened accordingly, oar blades through frame #1 web. Attach
leeboard ala Michalak designed sharpie. Move the heel of the mast
forward (>6" with rake calculated) and the partners forward to place
some rake in the mast and CE above the after edge of board. Construct
step to allow some future adjustment. Create watertight compartments
fore and aft, epoxy and taped seams, and add access ports - added some
camber to the decks (this is the greatest extension of time), tops of
gunwales are planed outboard slightly to match camber of the deck edge
- gunwales are also tapered fore and aft, 1.5" amidships, 1.1" forward
and ~.9" aft. Extend the mast and sail area 67 ft2, foot is 3" longer.
Make a solid, round mast with a 2.375" lower diameter. Mast taper is
proportionally similar to original. Add a halyard, reef points and
lace the sail on. No changes to the plumb sides, the rocker, the
position of the seats and the oarlocks, the construction of the frames,
or general method of construction, save for the stem. None of this
costs very much so the risk is minimal - and it provides hours of fun!
Later this year pictures will be on a new home page.
It is no longer an instant boat - but I suppose it should be called a
modified Bolger June Bug.
Phil Lea
Russellville, AR.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications