[bolger] Re: Shaft seals for an electric drive
Thanks, I'll check the links.
Glen-L sells instruction for the cut-off lower unit at
http://www.glen-l.com/designs/special/elecdr1.html(I'm not gonna try
to make fancy html links here any more till someone tells me how-to ;-)
)
Very nice description of it there which is all you should need to see
to do it yourself anyway. Looks like a handy thing but a little
unweildly for where I want to put it.
ghc <ghart-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=701
Glen-L sells instruction for the cut-off lower unit at
http://www.glen-l.com/designs/special/elecdr1.html(I'm not gonna try
to make fancy html links here any more till someone tells me how-to ;-)
)
Very nice description of it there which is all you should need to see
to do it yourself anyway. Looks like a handy thing but a little
unweildly for where I want to put it.
ghc <ghart-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=701
> - The simplest way is to run the shaft up a tube whose top end ishigher
> than the waterline.garter
>
> - My guess is that trolling motors are sealed by something like the
> spring oil seal on your car's crankshaft - available at any bearinghouse.
> I think they may also be oil-filled. I have thought about trying thistheir
> sometime myself, though you need to be able to machine some parts.
>
> Chicago Rawhide is the old-time mfg. of these seals. For instance,
> "V-ring" will handle 10 psi (facing outward), which ought to beenough:
>psi
>http://www.chicago-rawhide.com/industry/v-rings/v_rings.htm
>
> Shaft speed will derate the pressure, but their heavy-duty handles 35
> dynamic up to 3600 rpm (but I think it may be for 5" min. shafts):(consummable)
>
>http://www.chicago-rawhide.com/industry/seals/hdwavesl.htm
>
> -Of course, big auxiliary engines use a flax-type packing
> arrangement with a gland nut on a stuffing box that squeezes it allboat
> together. These are relatively easy to buy from people who supply
> builders and fisherman, like Hamilton Marine in Portland, Maine. Therubber
> smallest Hamilton has is 1-1/4" at $72.
>
> -None of these seals are bearings, however. If you put your bearing
> outside the seal, you'll use a water-lubricated bearing, brass o.d.,
> i.d. They are almost always long, so they can be used singularly.of a
> Alignment is why you usually see the packing assembly itself hung off
> stiff rubber hose. Inside, and you can use whatever bearings youwant,
> probably a pair of ball-type. Both bearing type available at bearingand
> suppliers, and most of these guys have sales desks you can sit down
> talk at.and
>
> - lastly, someone, maybe it was Clarkcraft, sawed a lower unit off an
> engine, welded up a flange, and hung a DC motor on it. Very clever
> "hobbyist" style. They might sell the idea as a plan - think it wasin
> Messing About in Boats.<a
>
> More than you wanted to know, probably...
>
> Gregg Carlson
>
>
>
>
>
> At 12:44 PM 11/5/1999 -0800, you wrote:
> >I'm seriously considering installing an electric inboard drive to my
> >href="http://www.instantboats.com/catfish.htm">Catfishoff
> >Beachcruiser.</a>
> >I'm looking to mount a prop between the keel and the rudder driven
> >a 24 volt motor. The motor shaft will connect to the prop thru someit
> >sort of belt or chain arrangement.
> >
> >Of course, I want to do this as cheap as possible. I may not add the
> >whole drive right now, but want to have it planned out so I can add
> >all later. Elco has complete systems to do this, but that isestimated
> >at over 3 grand, which is 5 times what the hull itself will cost. I'minexpensively?
> >looking for alternate cheaper ways.
> >
> >One thing that has me stooped is the shaft seal. I've never worked on
> >powerboats. Does anyone have an idea how I can build one
> >How do they build those seals on trolling motors?
> >
> >That and any comments or experiences you have will be very helpful.
> >
> >
> >
In a message dated 11/5/99 4:15:21 PM Central Standard Time,
ghartc@...writes:
<< lastly, someone, maybe it was Clarkcraft, sawed a lower unit off an
engine, welded up a flange, and hung a DC motor on it. Very clever and
"hobbyist" style. They might sell the idea as a plan - think it was in
Messing About in Boats. >>
<A HREF="http://www.glen-l.com/">Glen-L Boat plans and Kits.</A>
ghartc@...writes:
<< lastly, someone, maybe it was Clarkcraft, sawed a lower unit off an
engine, welded up a flange, and hung a DC motor on it. Very clever and
"hobbyist" style. They might sell the idea as a plan - think it was in
Messing About in Boats. >>
<A HREF="http://www.glen-l.com/">Glen-L Boat plans and Kits.</A>
- The simplest way is to run the shaft up a tube whose top end is higher
than the waterline.
- My guess is that trolling motors are sealed by something like the garter
spring oil seal on your car's crankshaft - available at any bearing house.
I think they may also be oil-filled. I have thought about trying this
sometime myself, though you need to be able to machine some parts.
Chicago Rawhide is the old-time mfg. of these seals. For instance, their
"V-ring" will handle 10 psi (facing outward), which ought to be enough:
http://www.chicago-rawhide.com/industry/v-rings/v_rings.htm
Shaft speed will derate the pressure, but their heavy-duty handles 35 psi
dynamic up to 3600 rpm (but I think it may be for 5" min. shafts):
http://www.chicago-rawhide.com/industry/seals/hdwavesl.htm
-Of course, big auxiliary engines use a flax-type packing (consummable)
arrangement with a gland nut on a stuffing box that squeezes it all
together. These are relatively easy to buy from people who supply boat
builders and fisherman, like Hamilton Marine in Portland, Maine. The
smallest Hamilton has is 1-1/4" at $72.
-None of these seals are bearings, however. If you put your bearing
outside the seal, you'll use a water-lubricated bearing, brass o.d., rubber
i.d. They are almost always long, so they can be used singularly.
Alignment is why you usually see the packing assembly itself hung off of a
stiff rubber hose. Inside, and you can use whatever bearings you want,
probably a pair of ball-type. Both bearing type available at bearing
suppliers, and most of these guys have sales desks you can sit down and
talk at.
- lastly, someone, maybe it was Clarkcraft, sawed a lower unit off an
engine, welded up a flange, and hung a DC motor on it. Very clever and
"hobbyist" style. They might sell the idea as a plan - think it was in
Messing About in Boats.
More than you wanted to know, probably...
Gregg Carlson
At 12:44 PM 11/5/1999 -0800, you wrote:
than the waterline.
- My guess is that trolling motors are sealed by something like the garter
spring oil seal on your car's crankshaft - available at any bearing house.
I think they may also be oil-filled. I have thought about trying this
sometime myself, though you need to be able to machine some parts.
Chicago Rawhide is the old-time mfg. of these seals. For instance, their
"V-ring" will handle 10 psi (facing outward), which ought to be enough:
http://www.chicago-rawhide.com/industry/v-rings/v_rings.htm
Shaft speed will derate the pressure, but their heavy-duty handles 35 psi
dynamic up to 3600 rpm (but I think it may be for 5" min. shafts):
http://www.chicago-rawhide.com/industry/seals/hdwavesl.htm
-Of course, big auxiliary engines use a flax-type packing (consummable)
arrangement with a gland nut on a stuffing box that squeezes it all
together. These are relatively easy to buy from people who supply boat
builders and fisherman, like Hamilton Marine in Portland, Maine. The
smallest Hamilton has is 1-1/4" at $72.
-None of these seals are bearings, however. If you put your bearing
outside the seal, you'll use a water-lubricated bearing, brass o.d., rubber
i.d. They are almost always long, so they can be used singularly.
Alignment is why you usually see the packing assembly itself hung off of a
stiff rubber hose. Inside, and you can use whatever bearings you want,
probably a pair of ball-type. Both bearing type available at bearing
suppliers, and most of these guys have sales desks you can sit down and
talk at.
- lastly, someone, maybe it was Clarkcraft, sawed a lower unit off an
engine, welded up a flange, and hung a DC motor on it. Very clever and
"hobbyist" style. They might sell the idea as a plan - think it was in
Messing About in Boats.
More than you wanted to know, probably...
Gregg Carlson
At 12:44 PM 11/5/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>I'm seriously considering installing an electric inboard drive to my <a
>href="http://www.instantboats.com/catfish.htm">Catfish
>Beachcruiser.</a>
>I'm looking to mount a prop between the keel and the rudder driven off
>a 24 volt motor. The motor shaft will connect to the prop thru some
>sort of belt or chain arrangement.
>
>Of course, I want to do this as cheap as possible. I may not add the
>whole drive right now, but want to have it planned out so I can add it
>all later. Elco has complete systems to do this, but that is estimated
>at over 3 grand, which is 5 times what the hull itself will cost. I'm
>looking for alternate cheaper ways.
>
>One thing that has me stooped is the shaft seal. I've never worked on
>powerboats. Does anyone have an idea how I can build one inexpensively?
>How do they build those seals on trolling motors?
>
>That and any comments or experiences you have will be very helpful.
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-- 20 megs of disk space in your eGroup's Document Vault
>--http://www.egroups.com/docvault/bolger/?m=1
>
>
>
I'm seriously considering installing an electric inboard drive to my <a
href="http://www.instantboats.com/catfish.htm">Catfish
Beachcruiser.</a>
I'm looking to mount a prop between the keel and the rudder driven off
a 24 volt motor. The motor shaft will connect to the prop thru some
sort of belt or chain arrangement.
Of course, I want to do this as cheap as possible. I may not add the
whole drive right now, but want to have it planned out so I can add it
all later. Elco has complete systems to do this, but that is estimated
at over 3 grand, which is 5 times what the hull itself will cost. I'm
looking for alternate cheaper ways.
One thing that has me stooped is the shaft seal. I've never worked on
powerboats. Does anyone have an idea how I can build one inexpensively?
How do they build those seals on trolling motors?
That and any comments or experiences you have will be very helpful.
href="http://www.instantboats.com/catfish.htm">Catfish
Beachcruiser.</a>
I'm looking to mount a prop between the keel and the rudder driven off
a 24 volt motor. The motor shaft will connect to the prop thru some
sort of belt or chain arrangement.
Of course, I want to do this as cheap as possible. I may not add the
whole drive right now, but want to have it planned out so I can add it
all later. Elco has complete systems to do this, but that is estimated
at over 3 grand, which is 5 times what the hull itself will cost. I'm
looking for alternate cheaper ways.
One thing that has me stooped is the shaft seal. I've never worked on
powerboats. Does anyone have an idea how I can build one inexpensively?
How do they build those seals on trolling motors?
That and any comments or experiences you have will be very helpful.