Re: Sea Bird 86
I am planning on the Dipping Lug. It was one of the reasons I chose the boat. I do like the PCB redraft with the doghouse using a gaff rig and jib, but think I will go for the original rig, at least in the first instance.
Temperatures here have exceeded 35 C in my work area so my problem with epoxy is different from yours.
I hope to concentrate on building in February / March.
Best regards,
David
You will see your own build before you see mine. I am working on the bulkheads at the moment. I have previously built the two masts, booms, gaffs and bowsprit. I have also built the two leeboards and the rudder. I plan to start the hull itself this spring. At the moment the temperature outside is - 7 degrees centigrade outside, and - 3 in the shop. Not a chance to use epoxy.
I take it that your keel and chines are epoxy fillet and fiberglass tape, no wooden chine logs or keel? My boat has chine logs so I suppose that the glassing is not that important but I will wrap the bottom layers a couple of inches up along the side panels and may be use a single 8 or 10 oz. layer on the rest of the sides.
I am fascinated by the Sea Bird 86, I have studied it countless times in the book, "Boats with an Open Mind". Will you chose the dipping lug rig?
Oddbjorn
It would be great to see your build. I was genuinely considering the WDJ but went for something smaller first.
I am using biaxial tape for the chines - 6 oz double on the inside (4" wide + 2" reinforcement as specified in the plans - although no weight indicated for this either) and 12 oz on the outside. I also placed a layer of 12 oz along the bottom of the keel. I assume that PCB was thinking of standard tape rather than biax so believe that I am going stronger than designed. I have found that the biaxial tape takes curves so much better than standard tape that it makes it almost enjoyable.
My inclination is to use 6 oz for the overall outer sheathing. I think this should be reasonable for the boat considering the chines and keel already also have the biaxial tape. (The Chebacco write up in Paysons book specifies 6oz cloth as does Diablo Grande in the same book).
I also get the idea that the purpose of the fiberglass sheathing is mainly to reduce maintenance and provide some abrasion resistance (and protection to the plywood surface itself) rather than the structural integrity of the boat.
David.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 2, 2016, at 11:41 AM,oddbjorn.jonassen@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
I am building the William D. Jochems and have also been trying to decide on the weight of the fiberglass on the hull sides. The bottom on this design is specified to have two layers of 10 oz. cloth. That might be a starting point for the Sea Bird 86 but the William D. Jochems is a flat bottomed hull which is supposed to bee beached from time to time on low tide. So on a keel boat like the Sea Bird it might be sufficient with a somewhat lighter cloth.
There is no specifications for the fiberglass on the rest of the William D. Jochems so I will have to decide myself.
"The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction" discuss glassing of surfaces that shall have a clear finish and recommend 4 oz or 6 oz (135 g/m2 or 200 g/m2). Based on this I have decided that I will not use anything less than 200 g/m2 for my hull sides.
There can be two reasons for applying Fiberglass Epoxy to plywood surfaces. It is an armoring which strengthens the surface against scratches and minor bumps and it helps to ensure that the Epoxy layer has sufficient thickness.
On the other hand, some constructions depend on the fiberglass surface to have sufficient hull strength, Strip built kayaks is a simple example. I have concluded that this is probably not the case on the designs in this discussion. If the hull should be totally dependent of the glassing it would have been specified on the plans or in the written specification.
I would be grateful for more postings in this thread.
Kind regards
Oddbjorn
Norway
Leigh Ross
On Jan 2, 2016, at 11:41 AM,oddbjorn.jonassen@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
I am building the William D. Jochems and have also been trying to decide on the weight of the fiberglass on the hull sides. The bottom on this design is specified to have two layers of 10 oz. cloth. That might be a starting point for the Sea Bird 86 but the William D. Jochems is a flat bottomed hull which is supposed to bee beached from time to time on low tide. So on a keel boat like the Sea Bird it might be sufficient with a somewhat lighter cloth.
There is no specifications for the fiberglass on the rest of the William D. Jochems so I will have to decide myself.
"The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction" discuss glassing of surfaces that shall have a clear finish and recommend 4 oz or 6 oz (135 g/m2 or 200 g/m2). Based on this I have decided that I will not use anything less than 200 g/m2 for my hull sides.
There can be two reasons for applying Fiberglass Epoxy to plywood surfaces. It is an armoring which strengthens the surface against scratches and minor bumps and it helps to ensure that the Epoxy layer has sufficient thickness.
On the other hand, some constructions depend on the fiberglass surface to have sufficient hull strength, Strip built kayaks is a simple example. I have concluded that this is probably not the case on the designs in this discussion. If the hull should be totally dependent of the glassing it would have been specified on the plans or in the written specification.
I would be grateful for more postings in this thread.
Kind regards
Oddbjorn
Norway
There is no specifications for the fiberglass on the rest of the William D. Jochems so I will have to decide myself.
"The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction" discuss glassing of surfaces that shall have a clear finish and recommend 4 oz or 6 oz (135 g/m2 or 200 g/m2). Based on this I have decided that I will not use anything less than 200 g/m2 for my hull sides.
There can be two reasons for applying Fiberglass Epoxy to plywood surfaces. It is an armoring which strengthens the surface against scratches and minor bumps and it helps to ensure that the Epoxy layer has sufficient thickness.
On the other hand, some constructions depend on the fiberglass surface to have sufficient hull strength, Strip built kayaks is a simple example. I have concluded that this is probably not the case on the designs in this discussion. If the hull should be totally dependent of the glassing it would have been specified on the plans or in the written specification.
I would be grateful for more postings in this thread.
Kind regards
Oddbjorn
Norway
Can't wait to see!
Patrick A. Connor
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From:bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]
Sent:Wednesday, December 30, 2015 2:40 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:[bolger] Sea Bird 86
I am in the process of building a Sea Bird 86. I have the keel, bulkheads, sides and bilge panels almost miraculously aligned and for the most part glued up. There is a satisfaction to closing in the bilge panels of a boat this size which I had not previously
experienced. I hope to glue the bilge panels to bulkhead A and the stem this evening and the boat will essentially be closed in.
Although there are a number of odd jobs (including taping the chines, building the cabin top, cockpit, hatches, tabernacle, mast, etc) to do in the meantime the next mountain on the horizon is the full hull sheathing. I was wondering what weight of cloth people
would suggest for this.
Look forward to hearing your thoughts.
Best regards,
David
Santiago, Chile
Although there are a number of odd jobs (including taping the chines, building the cabin top, cockpit, hatches, tabernacle, mast, etc) to do in the meantime the next mountain on the horizon is the full hull sheathing. I was wondering what weight of cloth people would suggest for this.
Look forward to hearing your thoughts.
Best regards,
David
Santiago, Chile