Re: [bolger] Building a Micro

Oops, I just realized I used my shorthand for the Micro Trawler, having forgotten about the Micro. Anybody wanting to weigh in now will be appreciated. Thanks.


On Sep 29, 2016 5:19 PM, "'John Kohnen'jhkohnen@...[bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Wasn't Micro designed for sticks 'n' nails construction (with glue), not
stitch 'n' goo? I've only got the plans for Micro's little sister,
Oldshoe, here. Those plans show chines and stringers. Peter Lenihan built
his Micro with chines:

http://www.duckworksmagazine. com/00/DM1999/articles/micro2/

With sticks 'n' nails construction you don't have to use epoxy for the
glue, and if you do use epoxy you won't need to use as much.

On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 12:19:44 -0700, Susanne wrote:

> ...
> On MICRO, clamp and chine-log would likely need laminating out of at
> least two pieces to not see the emerging hull be distorted by the
> stiffness of the chine-logs or clamps.
> ...

--
John (jkohnen@...)
I can usually judge a fellow by what he laughs at. (Wilson Mizner)

It's been years since I looked at the plans, but the Common Sense site says S&G.


On Sep 29, 2016 5:19 PM, "'John Kohnen'jhkohnen@...[bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Wasn't Micro designed for sticks 'n' nails construction (with glue), not
stitch 'n' goo? I've only got the plans for Micro's little sister,
Oldshoe, here. Those plans show chines and stringers. Peter Lenihan built
his Micro with chines:

http://www.duckworksmagazine. com/00/DM1999/articles/micro2/

With sticks 'n' nails construction you don't have to use epoxy for the
glue, and if you do use epoxy you won't need to use as much.

On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 12:19:44 -0700, Susanne wrote:

> ...
> On MICRO, clamp and chine-log would likely need laminating out of at
> least two pieces to not see the emerging hull be distorted by the
> stiffness of the chine-logs or clamps.
> ...

--
John (jkohnen@...)
I can usually judge a fellow by what he laughs at. (Wilson Mizner)

Good day. framing micro would hurt at all . and its easier than stich and glue for you would have to aline the hull proper when glueing. and with frames you have the right size, and you can use the frame for strength . use balheads as frames . a lot of instant boats are framed. instead of using the bottom plate to get the shape you frames/bulkheads.
I do have a tip about bending stringers chines and what else . if you need say a 2 × 2 cut them square say1×1. pin and glue.use more to get 3×2. staves that are square can bend 2 ways.
 Greetings H Gorte.
Wasn't Micro designed for sticks 'n' nails construction (with glue), not
stitch 'n' goo? I've only got the plans for Micro's little sister,
Oldshoe, here. Those plans show chines and stringers. Peter Lenihan built
his Micro with chines:

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/00/DM1999/articles/micro2/

With sticks 'n' nails construction you don't have to use epoxy for the
glue, and if you do use epoxy you won't need to use as much.

On Thu, 29 Sep 2016 12:19:44 -0700, Susanne wrote:

> ...
> On MICRO, clamp and chine-log would likely need laminating out of at
> least two pieces to not see the emerging hull be distorted by the
> stiffness of the chine-logs or clamps.
> ...

--
John (jkohnen@...)
I can usually judge a fellow by what he laughs at. (Wilson Mizner)
Thanks very much. That's a very good site. Bill

On 9/29/16, Leigh RossLeighpilot@...[bolger]
<bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> Duckworks has a new epoxy that is supposed to be very kind to those with
> allergies. Check with Chuck Leinweber regarding your health issues and the
> new epoxy.
>
>http://www.duckworksbbs.com/supplies/epoxy/dwx/index.htm
>
>
>
> Leigh Ross
>
> 484-464-1575 (C)
> www.unicornkayaks.com
>
>
>
>> On Sep 29, 2016, at 15:45, 'wordzenpix .'wordzenpix@...[bolger]
>> <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the speedy replies. My wife is very partial to the design,
>> and one recognizes the importance of that in boating. I've built one
>> of my own designs, a 16x6 flat-bottom barge houseboat with 1x2 chine
>> framing (PL Premium, no epoxy or glass cloth) and a house that
>> stiffened the structure. Beat the heck out of it on the Pamlico River
>> in NC, trailered it cross-county, nary a joint/wood failure. I'm not
>> sure I understand how framing would make the boat stiffer than s&g
>> since the boat appears to end up as a stressed-skin, monocoque
>> structure. But I value input on this forum with so much experience, so
>> please add more input. Thanks, Bill
>>
>> On 9/29/16,philbolger@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
>> wrote:
>> > I designed 39’1” x 7’5” #681 SACPAS/GADABOUT with lots of framing,
>> > heavy
>> > in/on-boat-laminated chine-logs and often 2.5” wide flanges per full
>> > and
>> > partial bulkhead, plus a meaty ‘clamp’.
>> >
>> > On MICRO, clamp and chine-log would likely need laminating out of at
>> > least
>> > two pieces to not see the emerging hull be distorted by the stiffness of
>> > the
>> > chine-logs or clamps.
>> >
>> > On #681 I arrived a 3”x 3” clamps and 3” x 2.25” chine-logs via a very
>> > compliant 3x3 piece matrix assembled via 8’0 lengths by 1/3-1/2
>> > overlapping
>> > 8’-length to not distort her.
>> > But all of #681 was done in full-epoxy mode...
>> >
>> > ’Old-fashioned’ framing ought to work on MICRO, short of insisting on
>> > massive steamed timbers to strain her.
>> >
>> > All that of course familiar to those with the 20+ sequence of
>> > installments
>> > in MAIB.
>> >
>> > Susanne Altenburger, PB&F
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > From: mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com
>> > Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2016 2:51 PM
>> > To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
>> > Subject: Re: [bolger] Building a Micro
>> >
>> >
>> > I guess the question would be, why? If you wanted a framed boat, why
>> > not
>> > build one designed to be framed?
>> >
>> >
>> > The problem is the frames would restrict some flexibility that be
>> > required
>> > for the design to not break apart.
>> >
>> > Scot
>> >
>> >
>> > On Thursday, September 29, 2016,wordzenpix@...[bolger]
>> > <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Has anyone built a Micro with frames instead of stitch and glue? I've
>> > had
>> > the plans for years, but my allergies have gotten worse, and I don't
>> > want to
>> > be around that much epoxy. Bill Sandifer
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > Scot McPherson, PMP CISSP MCSA
>> > U.S.C.G. Captain 100 GRT
>> > Shoreline, CT, USA
>> > LinkedIn <https://www.linkedin.com/in/scotmcpherson>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>
Duckworks has a new epoxy that is supposed to be very kind to those with allergies. Check with Chuck Leinweber regarding your health issues and the new epoxy. 




Leigh Ross

484-464-1575 (C)



On Sep 29, 2016, at 15:45, 'wordzenpix .'wordzenpix@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Thanks for the speedy replies. My wife is very partial to the design,
and one recognizes the importance of that in boating. I've built one
of my own designs, a 16x6 flat-bottom barge houseboat with 1x2 chine
framing (PL Premium, no epoxy or glass cloth) and a house that
stiffened the structure. Beat the heck out of it on the Pamlico River
in NC, trailered it cross-county, nary a joint/wood failure. I'm not
sure I understand how framing would make the boat stiffer than s&g
since the boat appears to end up as a stressed-skin, monocoque
structure. But I value input on this forum with so much experience, so
please add more input. Thanks, Bill

On 9/29/16,philbolger@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> I designed 39’1” x 7’5” #681 SACPAS/GADABOUT with lots of framing, heavy
> in/on-boat-laminated chine-logs and often 2.5” wide flanges per full and
> partial bulkhead, plus a meaty ‘clamp’.
>
> On MICRO, clamp and chine-log would likely need laminating out of at least
> two pieces to not see the emerging hull be distorted by the stiffness of the
> chine-logs or clamps.
>
> On #681 I arrived a 3”x 3” clamps and 3” x 2.25” chine-logs via a very
> compliant 3x3 piece matrix assembled via 8’0 lengths by 1/3-1/2 overlapping
> 8’-length to not distort her.
> But all of #681 was done in full-epoxy mode...
>
> ’Old-fashioned’ framing ought to work on MICRO, short of insisting on
> massive steamed timbers to strain her.
>
> All that of course familiar to those with the 20+ sequence of installments
> in MAIB.
>
> Susanne Altenburger, PB&F
>
>
>
> From:mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2016 2:51 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Building a Micro
>
>
> I guess the question would be, why? If you wanted a framed boat, why not
> build one designed to be framed?
>
>
> The problem is the frames would restrict some flexibility that be required
> for the design to not break apart.
>
> Scot
>
>
> On Thursday, September 29, 2016,wordzenpix@...[bolger]
> <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Has anyone built a Micro with frames instead of stitch and glue? I've had
> the plans for years, but my allergies have gotten worse, and I don't want to
> be around that much epoxy. Bill Sandifer
>
>
>
>
> --
> Scot McPherson, PMP CISSP MCSA
> U.S.C.G. Captain 100 GRT
> Shoreline, CT, USA
> LinkedIn <https://www.linkedin.com/in/scotmcpherson>
>
>
>

Thanks for the speedy replies. My wife is very partial to the design,
and one recognizes the importance of that in boating. I've built one
of my own designs, a 16x6 flat-bottom barge houseboat with 1x2 chine
framing (PL Premium, no epoxy or glass cloth) and a house that
stiffened the structure. Beat the heck out of it on the Pamlico River
in NC, trailered it cross-county, nary a joint/wood failure. I'm not
sure I understand how framing would make the boat stiffer than s&g
since the boat appears to end up as a stressed-skin, monocoque
structure. But I value input on this forum with so much experience, so
please add more input. Thanks, Bill

On 9/29/16,philbolger@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> I designed 39’1” x 7’5” #681 SACPAS/GADABOUT with lots of framing, heavy
> in/on-boat-laminated chine-logs and often 2.5” wide flanges per full and
> partial bulkhead, plus a meaty ‘clamp’.
>
> On MICRO, clamp and chine-log would likely need laminating out of at least
> two pieces to not see the emerging hull be distorted by the stiffness of the
> chine-logs or clamps.
>
> On #681 I arrived a 3”x 3” clamps and 3” x 2.25” chine-logs via a very
> compliant 3x3 piece matrix assembled via 8’0 lengths by 1/3-1/2 overlapping
> 8’-length to not distort her.
> But all of #681 was done in full-epoxy mode...
>
> ’Old-fashioned’ framing ought to work on MICRO, short of insisting on
> massive steamed timbers to strain her.
>
> All that of course familiar to those with the 20+ sequence of installments
> in MAIB.
>
> Susanne Altenburger, PB&F
>
>
>
> From: mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2016 2:51 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Building a Micro
>
>
> I guess the question would be, why? If you wanted a framed boat, why not
> build one designed to be framed?
>
>
> The problem is the frames would restrict some flexibility that be required
> for the design to not break apart.
>
> Scot
>
>
> On Thursday, September 29, 2016,wordzenpix@...[bolger]
> <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Has anyone built a Micro with frames instead of stitch and glue? I've had
> the plans for years, but my allergies have gotten worse, and I don't want to
> be around that much epoxy. Bill Sandifer
>
>
>
>
> --
> Scot McPherson, PMP CISSP MCSA
> U.S.C.G. Captain 100 GRT
> Shoreline, CT, USA
> LinkedIn <https://www.linkedin.com/in/scotmcpherson>
>
>
>
I designed 39’1” x 7’5” #681 SACPAS/GADABOUT with lots of framing, heavy in/on-boat-laminated chine-logs and often 2.5” wide flanges per full and partial bulkhead, plus a meaty ‘clamp’.
 
On MICRO, clamp and chine-log would likely need laminating out of at least two pieces to not see the emerging hull be distorted by the stiffness of the chine-logs or clamps.
 
On #681 I arrived a 3”x 3” clamps and 3” x 2.25” chine-logs via a very compliant 3x3 piece matrix assembled via 8’0 lengths by 1/3-1/2 overlapping 8’-length to not distort her.
But all of #681 was done in full-epoxy mode...

’Old-fashioned’ framing ought to work on MICRO, short of insisting on massive steamed timbers to strain her.
 
All that of course familiar to those with the 20+ sequence of installments in MAIB.
 
Susanne Altenburger, PB&F
 
 
 
Sent:Thursday, September 29, 2016 2:51 PM
Subject:Re: [bolger] Building a Micro
 
 

I guess the question would be, why? If you wanted a framed boat, why not build one designed to be framed?

 
The problem is the frames would restrict some flexibility that be required for the design to not break apart.
 
Scot

On Thursday, September 29, 2016,wordzenpix@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Has anyone built a Micro with frames instead of stitch and glue? I've had the plans for years, but my allergies have gotten worse, and I don't want to be around that much epoxy. Bill Sandifer



--
Scot McPherson, PMP CISSP MCSA
U.S.C.G. Captain 100 GRT
Shoreline, CT, USA
LinkedIn <https://www.linkedin.com/in/scotmcpherson>

I guess the question would be, why? If you wanted a framed boat, why not build one designed to be framed?

The problem is the frames would restrict some flexibility that be required for the design to not break apart.

Scot

On Thursday, September 29, 2016,wordzenpix@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Has anyone built a Micro with frames instead of stitch and glue? I've had the plans for years, but my allergies have gotten worse, and I don't want to be around that much epoxy. Bill Sandifer



--
Scot McPherson, PMP CISSP MCSA
U.S.C.G. Captain 100 GRT
Shoreline, CT, USA
LinkedIn <https://www.linkedin.com/in/scotmcpherson>

Has anyone built a Micro with frames instead of stitch and glue? I've had the plans for years, but my allergies have gotten worse, and I don't want to be around that much epoxy. Bill Sandifer
Will the CAD drawings on this link help, in the meantime?

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?90081-Bolger-Micro-in-Sketchup-3D
Yes thanks. It was only 331 KB so will hopefully find a larger one.

From the not-much-help department:

I may have an old copy of the WB issue in my attic, but am away until midOctober.

Will try to remember, find, scan, and post when I return.
Enlarging the page is a computer function. On a Mac, press command and + key to scale the page. On Windows, the same can be done, not sure the procedure. Short of that, simply temporarily change the screen resolution to a lower number, and the image size will increase. I've done that many times on small Craigslist photos to have a better look at funky old boats for sale. Bill S.

On Mon, Aug 8, 2016 at 11:55 PM,arvent@...[bolger]<bolger@yahoogroups.com>wrote:

Enlarge the page as much as possible and then do a screenshot.


As I said Yahoo won't let you do anything with that one. And the resolution is too low to enlarge it or will just fuzz out. Found the issue of WB it appeared in #80

Nels



Nels,
I sent you a copy, didn't you get it?
Scot

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 9, 2016, at 2:55 AM,arvent@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Enlarge the page as much as possible and then do a screenshot.

As I said Yahoo won't let you do anything with that one. And the resolution is too low to enlarge it or will just fuzz out. Found the issue of WB it appeared in #80

Nels


Enlarge the page as much as possible and then do a screenshot.

As I said Yahoo won't let you do anything with that one. And the resolution is too low to enlarge it or will just fuzz out. Found the issue of WB it appeared in #80

Nels


Enlarge the page as much as possible and then do a screenshot.


On Aug 7, 2016 8:11 AM, "arvent@...[bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Anybody know where I could obtain a higher rez version of this lovely drawing? (Yahoo will not allow me to copy this one) It is for the liner page of personal photo album of Micro builders photos I have collected/corresponded with or read about over the years.




Anybody know where I could obtain a higher rez version of this lovely drawing? (Yahoo will not allow me to copy this one) It is for the liner page of personal photo album of Micro builders photos I have collected/corresponded with or read about over the years.

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/BolgerCartoons/photos/photostream/lightbox/314964121?orderBy=mtime&sortOrder=desc&photoFilter=ALL#zax/314964121


Thanks Nels




 
Rex,
     what is your location ?
I might be able to scare up a local source here in MA.
 
Susanne Altenburger, PB&F
 
Sent:Saturday, July 30, 2016 3:59 PM
Subject:Re: [bolger] Re: Building a Micro
 
 

Thanks. That helps.
 
 


From:"'John Trussell' jtrussell2@... [bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent:Saturday, July 30, 2016 3:53 PM
Subject:RE: [bolger] Re: Building a Micro
 
 
Adirondack Goodboats in upstate NY builds them and has one for sale. Micros are pretty simple plywood on frame boats and any local boat builder should be able to build one. A number have been built with 3/8’s “ ply rather than ¼ (which some consider a little light) and if you’re hacing one built, you might want to specify the thicker wood.
 
JohnT
 
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto: bolger@yahoogroups.com ]
Sent:Saturday, July 30, 2016 3:41 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Re: Building a Micro
 
 
Anyone know who builds Micros? I want to own and sail one but not build one. Thanks for any leads.
 
 
 
From:"Andrew Porter andrewaporter@... [bolger]" < bolger@yahoogroups.com >
To:" bolger@yahoogroups.com " < bolger@yahoogroups.com >
Sent:Saturday, July 30, 2016 3:35 PM
Subject:RE: [bolger] Re: Building a Micro
 
 
Yes, a picture is worth . . . .
 
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
From: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2016 06:18:02 -0700
Subject: RE: [bolger] Re: Building a Micro

 
 


Thanks. That helps.
 



From:"'John Trussell' jtrussell2@... [bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent:Saturday, July 30, 2016 3:53 PM
Subject:RE: [bolger] Re: Building a Micro

 
Adirondack Goodboats in upstate NY builds them and has one for sale. Micros are pretty simple plywood on frame boats and any local boat builder should be able to build one. A number have been built with 3/8’s “ ply rather than ¼ (which some consider a little light) and if you’re hacing one built, you might want to specify the thicker wood.
 
JohnT
 
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto: bolger@yahoogroups.com ]
Sent:Saturday, July 30, 2016 3:41 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Re: Building a Micro
 
 
Anyone know who builds Micros? I want to own and sail one but not build one. Thanks for any leads.
 
 
 
From:"Andrew Porter andrewaporter@... [bolger]" < bolger@yahoogroups.com >
To:" bolger@yahoogroups.com " < bolger@yahoogroups.com >
Sent:Saturday, July 30, 2016 3:35 PM
Subject:RE: [bolger] Re: Building a Micro
 
 
Yes, a picture is worth . . . .
 
To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
From: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2016 06:18:02 -0700
Subject: RE: [bolger] Re: Building a Micro

 
 


Adirondack Goodboats in upstate NY builds them and has one for sale. Micros are pretty simple plywood on frame boats and any local boat builder should be able to build one. A number have been built with 3/8’s “ ply rather than ¼ (which some consider a little light) and if you’re hacing one built, you might want to specify the thicker wood.

 

JohnT

 

From:bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto: bolger@yahoogroups.com ]
Sent:Saturday, July 30, 2016 3:41 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject:Re: [bolger] Re: Building a Micro

 

 

Anyone know who builds Micros? I want to own and sail one but not build one. Thanks for any leads.

 

 

 

From:"Andrew Porter andrewaporter@... [bolger]" < bolger@yahoogroups.com >
To:" bolger@yahoogroups.com " < bolger@yahoogroups.com >
Sent:Saturday, July 30, 2016 3:35 PM
Subject:RE: [bolger] Re: Building a Micro

 

 

Yes, a picture is worth . . . .

 

To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
From: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2016 06:18:02 -0700
Subject: RE: [bolger] Re: Building a Micro

 

 

Anyone know who builds Micros? I want to own and sail one but not build one. Thanks for any leads.
 



From:"Andrew Porter andrewaporter@... [bolger]" <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
To:"bolger@yahoogroups.com" <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent:Saturday, July 30, 2016 3:35 PM
Subject:RE: [bolger] Re: Building a Micro

 
Yes, a picture is worth . . . .


To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
From: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2016 06:18:02 -0700
Subject: RE: [bolger] Re: Building a Micro

 


Yes, a picture is worth . . . .


To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
From: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2016 06:18:02 -0700
Subject: RE: [bolger] Re: Building a Micro

 
Try this:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/bolger/photos/photostream/lightbox/392044784?orderBy=mtime&sortOrder=desc&photoFilter=ALL#zax/392044784

Jerry
Warrenton, VA

 

I had tried to find a link to the pics you referenced without luck.

Thole pins are an inexpensive and practical  alternative to oar locks. Wooden Boat magazine had an excellent article on making them some years back.

To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
From: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2016 15:53:00 -0700
Subject: RE: [bolger] Re: Building a Micro

 
Hi Andrew

I think I started this discussion, somewhat obliquely.  On the photo of Jan Cudak's Gypsy, I noticed the oars had glued & screwed wood fittings affixed to the oars - these fittings had a hole in them, that looked like it was lined with a piece of PVC.  I thought, correctly as it turns out, that if he was using a single thole pin, that the oars would fit over the pin and would be "locked" and unable to feather.

While I've never used thole pins, single and double thole pins have been used for a long time and feathering the oars is surely possible in both cases.


Jerry
Warrenton VA
Hi Andrew

I think I started this discussion, somewhat obliquely.  On the photo of Jan Cudak's Gypsy, I noticed the oars had glued & screwed wood fittings affixed to the oars - these fittings had a hole in them, that looked like it was lined with a piece of PVC.  I thought, correctly as it turns out, that if he was using a single thole pin, that the oars would fit over the pin and would be "locked" and unable to feather.

While I've never used thole pins, single and double thole pins have been used for a long time and feathering the oars is surely possible in both cases.


Jerry
Warrenton VA
I've feathered oars in large gigs with double thole pins. I haven't tried but can't see why a single thole pin would prevent feathering.

To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
From: bolger@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2016 10:20:59 -0700
Subject: [bolger] Re: Building a Micro

 
Thank you. The oarlocks are just simple wooden pins so unfortunately you cannot feather the oars. On principle, I tried to make as much of this boat as I could. Besides, the factory-made oarlocks were really over-priced in my local boat shop...
Jan Cudak, (pronounced “Yann Koodak” ?)
Polish, Czech or Slovak ?
Perhaps even ‘Bohemian’.,..
No need to answer...

You may have WESTERN UNION.

PAY PAL should work as well.
Susanne
Sent:Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:03 PM
Subject:Re: [bolger] Building a Micro
 
 

Hello Susanne,
Thank you for the prompt reply. I am located in Eastern Europe so a check or money order is not possible. Are there other forms of payment? Paypal?

Best,

Jan

Thank you. The oarlocks are just simple wooden pins so unfortunately you cannot feather the oars. On principle, I tried to make as much of this boat as I could. Besides, the factory-made oarlocks were really over-priced in my local boat shop...
Hello Susanne,
Thank you for the prompt reply. I am located in Eastern Europe so a check or money order is not possible. Are there other forms of payment? Paypal?

Best,

Jan
Hi Scott.  It looks like, if he's using a single thole pin, and the oar sits on that pin, it would not be able to rotate (feather).  At any rate, that's essentially why I asked about the arrangement.  Nice job on that boat!

Jerry
Warrenton, VA
Why wouldn't the oars be able to be feathered? I don't understand the restriction.

Scot

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 26, 2016, at 8:09 AM,jerrywolczanski@...[bolger] <bolger@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

nice job on your Gypsy!

Can you tell us more about your oarlocks!   It looks like the oars cannot be feathered.  Is that right?  Nice job!

Jerry
Warrenton, VA
John,
   MICRO-2 is an addition to the original MICRO plans.
It covers the options you mention along with more improvements.
The set of plans has grown to 11 sheets and is available for $250.- to build one boat, sent rolled in a tube.

COMMON SENSE BOASTS is NOT an authorized source for our work. 
They have never paid any royalties. 
But it seems that they continue to do business from right across the border in Canada.

If you are interest in ‘clean’ plans with all the upgrades, send a check or money order made out to Phil Bolger & Friends Inc.
at
66 Atlantic Street
Gloucester, MA 01930-1627

Thanks for your interest in our work.
 
Susanne Altenburger, PB&F (Collaborator with and Widow to Phil)
 
Sent:Tuesday, July 26, 2016 5:32 AM
Subject:[bolger] Building a Micro
 
 

Hello everyone,
I biult a Gypsy this summer (plans from Instant Boats) and want to biuld a Micro next. I see that plans are available from Common Sense Boats, but I wonder if this is the updated version of the boat. According to the Bolger design index, there is a Micro II -
 
"Improved/updated Micro design, with battened mainstail/gaffsail on shorter tabernacled masts, etc."

Does anybody have any suggestions or advice?

Many thanks,

John
 
 
 
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nice job on your Gypsy!

Can you tell us more about your oarlocks!   It looks like the oars cannot be feathered.  Is that right?  Nice job!

Jerry
Warrenton, VA
I'm sorry - I posted this twice.
 Hello everyone,
I biult a Gypsy this summer (plans from Instant Boats) and want to biuld a Micro next. I see that plans are available from Common Sense Boats, but I wonder if this is the updated version of the boat. According to the Bolger design index, there is a Micro II -

"Improved/updated Micro design, with battened mainstail/gaffsail on shorter tabernacled masts, etc."

Does anybody have any suggestions or advice?

Many thanks,

John



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