Re: so-and-so FG butt block
--- Pippo,
I made a Six Hour Canoe and tried a wide board underneath
the joint and still had problems. Wavy 1/4 inch material, uneven
floor
underneath the board and though I tried to block up the unsupported
ends
of the panels being glued I found it hard to get everything competely
flat and fair. I would like to make a 16 ft gluing table so the whole
surface has a solid, flat backing.
I have had better luck gluing one side at a time. There may be
somthing to too much epoxy on the bottom tape making it prone to
sliding around. I suspect like a lot of things with enough
preparation, patience and skill you can get it just so. I usually am
short on one of these ingredients.
Leander
Inbolger@egroups.com, "Giuseppe Bianco" <giuseppe.bianco@a...> wrote:
I made a Six Hour Canoe and tried a wide board underneath
the joint and still had problems. Wavy 1/4 inch material, uneven
floor
underneath the board and though I tried to block up the unsupported
ends
of the panels being glued I found it hard to get everything competely
flat and fair. I would like to make a 16 ft gluing table so the whole
surface has a solid, flat backing.
I have had better luck gluing one side at a time. There may be
somthing to too much epoxy on the bottom tape making it prone to
sliding around. I suspect like a lot of things with enough
preparation, patience and skill you can get it just so. I usually am
short on one of these ingredients.
Leander
Inbolger@egroups.com, "Giuseppe Bianco" <giuseppe.bianco@a...> wrote:
> Leander, I worked on 3/4" thick particle board, so it was prettyflat
> and clean. I'll keep the list posted about the next one.wrote:
> Best
>
> Pippo
> --- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Leander S. Harding" <lharding@s...>
> > ---I have had similar problems with doing both sides ofFiberglass
> > butt joints. I don't think it is the weight. I have used plentyof
> > weight. As Chuck says it is the flatness of the surface you are
> > working against. The cement floors that most of us have in our
> > garages and basement's are far from r
Leander, I worked on 3/4" thick particle board, so it was pretty flat
and clean. I'll keep the list posted about the next one.
Best
Pippo
and clean. I'll keep the list posted about the next one.
Best
Pippo
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Leander S. Harding" <lharding@s...> wrote:
> ---I have had similar problems with doing both sides of Fiberglass
> butt joints. I don't think it is the weight. I have used plenty of
> weight. As Chuck says it is the flatness of the surface you are
> working against. The cement floors that most of us have in our
> garages and basement's are far from really falt.
---I have had similar problems with doing both sides of Fiberglass
butt joints. I don't think it is the weight. I have used plenty of
weight. As Chuck says it is the flatness of the surface you are
working against. The cement floors that most of us have in our
garages and basement's are far from really falt. It doesn't take much
to get the slick tape moving around and puckered. You also can't fair
it out with wax paper as on top and can't see if things go wrong. I
have had crinkles appear even in the top due to uneveness in the
floor. I now do one side at a time. I clamp a board on the join to
protect it when I turn it over. The Folding Schooner has plywood butt
blocks of the same material as the sides on the inside and fiberglass
on the outside. I did the butt blocks on the inside first with epoxy
only no nails etc, filled the small seam on the other side with
thickened epoxy and put on the tape and wet it out and put wax paper
on top and squeegied the whole thing and then put a board and
cinderblocks on top. Came out very nice.
I think the only way to be sure of fair joints if you do both sides
at a time, in the kind of shop I have, would be to make a jig out of
something solid like 3/4 MDF.
I think Jim Michlak's 3/4 board, screws, on inside, fiberglass on the
outside is a very good option for these small boats
Leander
Inbolger@egroups.com, "Giuseppe Bianco" <pippobianco@t...> wrote:
butt joints. I don't think it is the weight. I have used plenty of
weight. As Chuck says it is the flatness of the surface you are
working against. The cement floors that most of us have in our
garages and basement's are far from really falt. It doesn't take much
to get the slick tape moving around and puckered. You also can't fair
it out with wax paper as on top and can't see if things go wrong. I
have had crinkles appear even in the top due to uneveness in the
floor. I now do one side at a time. I clamp a board on the join to
protect it when I turn it over. The Folding Schooner has plywood butt
blocks of the same material as the sides on the inside and fiberglass
on the outside. I did the butt blocks on the inside first with epoxy
only no nails etc, filled the small seam on the other side with
thickened epoxy and put on the tape and wet it out and put wax paper
on top and squeegied the whole thing and then put a board and
cinderblocks on top. Came out very nice.
I think the only way to be sure of fair joints if you do both sides
at a time, in the kind of shop I have, would be to make a jig out of
something solid like 3/4 MDF.
I think Jim Michlak's 3/4 board, screws, on inside, fiberglass on the
outside is a very good option for these small boats
Leander
Inbolger@egroups.com, "Giuseppe Bianco" <pippobianco@t...> wrote:
> Hi all - went down in the garage to check the FG butt block I had
> done last afternoon. The top FG tape stuck properly everywhere, but
> the bottom one had a couple of pretty bad segments
Hi all - went down in the garage to check the FG butt block I had
done last afternoon. The top FG tape stuck properly everywhere, but
the bottom one had a couple of pretty bad segments full of big air
bubbles. I've already scraped down to the bare wood those segments,
and this afternoon I'll patch with lenghts of same tape. The reason
is almost certainly the insufficient weight that I put on the top of
the sandwich. I used 20 kg, but I guess I need at least twice as much.
On the good side, I checked the size of the complete side panel.They
came out almost unbelievably perfect. I checked the bow-transom
lenght (4856 mm), and the two diagonals: bow sheer to transom bottom
(4933 mm) and bow bottom to transom sheere (4887 mm) and they were ok
within 1 or 2 mm.
It takes patience to build a boat... Best, Pippo
done last afternoon. The top FG tape stuck properly everywhere, but
the bottom one had a couple of pretty bad segments full of big air
bubbles. I've already scraped down to the bare wood those segments,
and this afternoon I'll patch with lenghts of same tape. The reason
is almost certainly the insufficient weight that I put on the top of
the sandwich. I used 20 kg, but I guess I need at least twice as much.
On the good side, I checked the size of the complete side panel.They
came out almost unbelievably perfect. I checked the bow-transom
lenght (4856 mm), and the two diagonals: bow sheer to transom bottom
(4933 mm) and bow bottom to transom sheere (4887 mm) and they were ok
within 1 or 2 mm.
It takes patience to build a boat... Best, Pippo