Re: so-and-so FG butt block
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Giuseppe Bianco" <pippobianco@t...> wrote:
for a Varible Speed Electric Drill works well and fast for rough
work.
I found some 32 Grit disks at the local paint store. I have a new
Porter Cable Random Orbit Sander with holes in the disk which works
great on Fiberglass and feathers out the edges of tape very nicely.
The dust control is better with this rig and there is even an
attachment which I don't have to hook it up to your shop vac. Still
nasty and time consuming. I wear a paper monkey suit, safety goggles
and a good quality paper mask. I use 50 or 60 Grit pads for this. The
surface has little voids where the bubbles or the wrinkles break
under
the sanding. These I fill with thickened epoxy. I have never run into
anything where I felt the need for more tape. Though filling the
holes
and adding another layer of tape sounds easier to me, if necessary,
than scraping the whole thing off and starting over.
When I visited Dynamite Payson this summer he told me he no longer
wants to build anything that involves sanding fiberglass. He doesn't
mind putting it on but he hates sanding it off.
I'm scared to break the
joint with two clamps and get someone to help me turn it over easy.
No Worries
Leander
w
> Harry, Leander and the others, I'm just curious now: what did youdo
> when you FG butt blocks failed?I just break the bubbles or sand down the high spots. A sanding pad
for a Varible Speed Electric Drill works well and fast for rough
work.
I found some 32 Grit disks at the local paint store. I have a new
Porter Cable Random Orbit Sander with holes in the disk which works
great on Fiberglass and feathers out the edges of tape very nicely.
The dust control is better with this rig and there is even an
attachment which I don't have to hook it up to your shop vac. Still
nasty and time consuming. I wear a paper monkey suit, safety goggles
and a good quality paper mask. I use 50 or 60 Grit pads for this. The
surface has little voids where the bubbles or the wrinkles break
under
the sanding. These I fill with thickened epoxy. I have never run into
anything where I felt the need for more tape. Though filling the
holes
and adding another layer of tape sounds easier to me, if necessary,
than scraping the whole thing off and starting over.
When I visited Dynamite Payson this summer he told me he no longer
wants to build anything that involves sanding fiberglass. He doesn't
mind putting it on but he hates sanding it off.
I'm scared to break the
> joint when turning the panel upside down...I just clamp a 1 x 4 a little longer than the joint is wide to the
joint with two clamps and get someone to help me turn it over easy.
No Worries
Leander
w
Pippo,
Before turning clamp some long 2x4 (or whatever) to the edges for
temporary support.
You are all learning as I did, that the "secret side" is tough to get
right. Working one side at a time takes away most of the mystery.
Excess epoxy, air bubbles, and uneven layout are easier to avoid
while
staring right at your work.
Keep building folks,
Rick
Before turning clamp some long 2x4 (or whatever) to the edges for
temporary support.
You are all learning as I did, that the "secret side" is tough to get
right. Working one side at a time takes away most of the mystery.
Excess epoxy, air bubbles, and uneven layout are easier to avoid
while
staring right at your work.
Keep building folks,
Rick
> I'm scared to break the
> joint when turning the panel upside down...
> Best, Pippo
Harry, Leander and the others, I'm just curious now: what did you do
when you FG butt blocks failed? Scraped the FG down to the bare wood
like I did? I'll tell you, it was hard work. Even if I catched it
with less than 24 hours cure time , it took one good hour of tough
scraping with the long Surform. And a lot of itch on hands... FG is
nasty stuff. Moreover, mine was pretty tough stuff (9 oz biaxial)...
I'm tempted to do 1 layer at a time, but since what I'm doing is to
join the two Micro hull sides (10 mm thick), I'm scared to break the
joint when turning the panel upside down...
Best, Pippo
when you FG butt blocks failed? Scraped the FG down to the bare wood
like I did? I'll tell you, it was hard work. Even if I catched it
with less than 24 hours cure time , it took one good hour of tough
scraping with the long Surform. And a lot of itch on hands... FG is
nasty stuff. Moreover, mine was pretty tough stuff (9 oz biaxial)...
I'm tempted to do 1 layer at a time, but since what I'm doing is to
join the two Micro hull sides (10 mm thick), I'm scared to break the
joint when turning the panel upside down...
Best, Pippo
Pippo
The fiberglass butt joints that I did recently worked very well. I had tried
weights and nails before , with the same problems you had.
I laid down a smooth board a little bit wider than the fiberglass. I put
down wax paper. I laid down the first fiberglass butt, and then coated it
with epoxy. I put down the two pieces of plywood to be joined, centered on
the fiberglass. I put down another strip of fiberglass and coated it. I
put down wax paper. I put down a another smooth board and screwed the whole
works together with sheet rock screws.
The result was a very smooth joint, with a few easy to fill holes.
HJ
% Harrywelshman@...
The fiberglass butt joints that I did recently worked very well. I had tried
weights and nails before , with the same problems you had.
I laid down a smooth board a little bit wider than the fiberglass. I put
down wax paper. I laid down the first fiberglass butt, and then coated it
with epoxy. I put down the two pieces of plywood to be joined, centered on
the fiberglass. I put down another strip of fiberglass and coated it. I
put down wax paper. I put down a another smooth board and screwed the whole
works together with sheet rock screws.
The result was a very smooth joint, with a few easy to fill holes.
HJ
>_ _ _ _ _
> Hi all - went down in the garage to check the FG butt block I had
> done last afternoon. The top FG tape stuck properly everywhere, but
> the bottom one had a couple of pretty bad segments full of big air
> bubbles. I've already scraped down to the bare wood those segments,
> and this afternoon I'll patch with lenghts of same tape. The reason
> is almost certainly the insufficient weight that I put on the top of
> the sandwich. I used 20 kg, but I guess I need at least twice as much.
% Harrywelshman@...
Chuck (and the others), thanks. I'll retry with the next one.
Underneath, I use a wide sheet of 18 mm (3/4") particle board. I was
wondering on my problem, and one of the reasons could also be the
relative stiffness of the plywood itself which retains possible
irregularities if the weight on top is not enough.
We'll see. In the meantime, I've already taped the patches on.
Best, Pippo
Underneath, I use a wide sheet of 18 mm (3/4") particle board. I was
wondering on my problem, and one of the reasons could also be the
relative stiffness of the plywood itself which retains possible
irregularities if the weight on top is not enough.
We'll see. In the meantime, I've already taped the patches on.
Best, Pippo
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...> wrote:
> When doing both sides of a FG butt joint simultaneously, the
flatness of the
> area under the joint is important too. I have had mixed success
too, and
> now do one side at a time. Good luck.
>
> Chuck
Vince
thankyou for puting the photo in the files. watching your progress is
an insperation. I almost do not want to look at the Dakota for If I
enter the duckworks boat design comp I think my design will be simlar
and having seen the perfection of Mr Bolgers design mine would pale
in
compairison
Best wishes Jeff bybee
thankyou for puting the photo in the files. watching your progress is
an insperation. I almost do not want to look at the Dakota for If I
enter the duckworks boat design comp I think my design will be simlar
and having seen the perfection of Mr Bolgers design mine would pale
in
compairison
Best wishes Jeff bybee
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Vince Chew" <vachew@f...> wrote:
> Pippo,
>
> I made up three pairs of butt splice clamps. For each pair, I
ripped
> four pieces of 1/2 " ply about 8 inches wide and 54 inches long.
For
>
> each half of the pair, I laminated two pieces together. After I
> spread
> the glue, I supported them at the ends and set enough weight in the
> middle so they cured with about a 2 inch bow. I stapled polyethylene
> to
> the convex surfaces. For the underneath part of the splice, I wet
out
> the tape on top of the polyethylene, then slip it under the end of
> one
> sheet and butt the second sheet with thickened epoxy in the butt.
I
> then wet out the layers of tape on the top and lay the second half
of
> the pair on top. By clamping the ends against the bow, it spreads
the
> pressure evenly across the splice both top and bottom. (Did I
mention
> that I do all of my splicing and glassing on a long temporary work
> bench made with sawhorses and planks? See the picture in the
"Dakota"
> folder in the files).
>
>
Pippo,
I made up three pairs of butt splice clamps. For each pair, I ripped
four pieces of 1/2 " ply about 8 inches wide and 54 inches long. For
each half of the pair, I laminated two pieces together. After I
spread
the glue, I supported them at the ends and set enough weight in the
middle so they cured with about a 2 inch bow. I stapled polyethylene
to
the convex surfaces. For the underneath part of the splice, I wet out
the tape on top of the polyethylene, then slip it under the end of
one
sheet and butt the second sheet with thickened epoxy in the butt. I
then wet out the layers of tape on the top and lay the second half of
the pair on top. By clamping the ends against the bow, it spreads the
pressure evenly across the splice both top and bottom. (Did I mention
that I do all of my splicing and glassing on a long temporary work
bench made with sawhorses and planks? See the picture in the "Dakota"
folder in the files).
Vince Chew
I made up three pairs of butt splice clamps. For each pair, I ripped
four pieces of 1/2 " ply about 8 inches wide and 54 inches long. For
each half of the pair, I laminated two pieces together. After I
spread
the glue, I supported them at the ends and set enough weight in the
middle so they cured with about a 2 inch bow. I stapled polyethylene
to
the convex surfaces. For the underneath part of the splice, I wet out
the tape on top of the polyethylene, then slip it under the end of
one
sheet and butt the second sheet with thickened epoxy in the butt. I
then wet out the layers of tape on the top and lay the second half of
the pair on top. By clamping the ends against the bow, it spreads the
pressure evenly across the splice both top and bottom. (Did I mention
that I do all of my splicing and glassing on a long temporary work
bench made with sawhorses and planks? See the picture in the "Dakota"
folder in the files).
Vince Chew
> Hi all - went down in the garage to check the FG butt block I hadPippo:
> done last afternoon. The top FG tape stuck properly everywhere, but
> the bottom one had a couple of pretty bad segments full of big air
> bubbles.............. It takes patience to build a boat... Best, Pippo
>
When doing both sides of a FG butt joint simultaneously, the flatness of the
area under the joint is important too. I have had mixed success too, and
now do one side at a time. Good luck.
Chuck