Re: [bolger] Re: so-and-so FG butt block
They certainly make life easy.
A word of caution is due though... be careful where you are point them,
where you lay them down, and how long you leave them pointed at your boat.
Epoxy covered wood BURNS and those guns are DAMN HOT.
I used to use mine to light cigarettes...
Richard Spelling,http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats
From the muddy waters of Oklahoma
A word of caution is due though... be careful where you are point them,
where you lay them down, and how long you leave them pointed at your boat.
Epoxy covered wood BURNS and those guns are DAMN HOT.
I used to use mine to light cigarettes...
Richard Spelling,http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats
From the muddy waters of Oklahoma
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Straub" <amstraub1@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 10:53 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: so-and-so FG butt block
>
> All,
>
> I have been using a heat gun and furniture scrapers (also putty
> knives sharpened like furniture scrapers) on two boat projects with
> great results. Removing excess epoxy in this way is far easier and
> less messy than sanding. I was concerned about the heat permanently
> affecting the strength of the epoxy but the people at Gougeon
> Brothers said that as long as you don't char the epoxy there is no
> strength degradation. Also, only prolonged exposure (days, weeks) to
> high temperatures (below the "char" point)would cause a strength
> problem. I believe that this method can cut many hours out of "excess
> epoxy" removal.
>
> Al, in Ann Arbor
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...> wrote:
> > I had forgotten about using a heat gun. You can peel fiberglass up
> really
> > easily with one. Get a corner up and grab hold with pliers and pull
> while
> > working the heat gun ahead of where it is lifting. You could try
> with a hair
> > drier, but it probably doesn't get hot enough. Harbor Freight has an
> > inexpensive gun that works fine for this.
> >
> > HJ
> >
> > >
> > > Two second blast from heat gun, scrap epoxy off like putty.
> > >
> > > Makes those odd, tight corners a simple matter. Run heat gun over
> epoxy,
> > > scrape with scraper. repeat. Beats the %@#% out of sanding...
> > >
> > > Richard Spelling,http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats
> > > >From the muddy waters of Oklahoma
> >
> > _ _ _ _ _
> > % Harry welshman@p...
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
All,
I have been using a heat gun and furniture scrapers (also putty
knives sharpened like furniture scrapers) on two boat projects with
great results. Removing excess epoxy in this way is far easier and
less messy than sanding. I was concerned about the heat permanently
affecting the strength of the epoxy but the people at Gougeon
Brothers said that as long as you don't char the epoxy there is no
strength degradation. Also, only prolonged exposure (days, weeks) to
high temperatures (below the "char" point)would cause a strength
problem. I believe that this method can cut many hours out of "excess
epoxy" removal.
Al, in Ann Arbor
I have been using a heat gun and furniture scrapers (also putty
knives sharpened like furniture scrapers) on two boat projects with
great results. Removing excess epoxy in this way is far easier and
less messy than sanding. I was concerned about the heat permanently
affecting the strength of the epoxy but the people at Gougeon
Brothers said that as long as you don't char the epoxy there is no
strength degradation. Also, only prolonged exposure (days, weeks) to
high temperatures (below the "char" point)would cause a strength
problem. I believe that this method can cut many hours out of "excess
epoxy" removal.
Al, in Ann Arbor
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...> wrote:
> I had forgotten about using a heat gun. You can peel fiberglass up
really
> easily with one. Get a corner up and grab hold with pliers and pull
while
> working the heat gun ahead of where it is lifting. You could try
with a hair
> drier, but it probably doesn't get hot enough. Harbor Freight has an
> inexpensive gun that works fine for this.
>
> HJ
>
> >
> > Two second blast from heat gun, scrap epoxy off like putty.
> >
> > Makes those odd, tight corners a simple matter. Run heat gun over
epoxy,
> > scrape with scraper. repeat. Beats the %@#% out of sanding...
> >
> > Richard Spelling,http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats
> > >From the muddy waters of Oklahoma
>
> _ _ _ _ _
> % Harry welshman@p...
All,
I have been using a heat gun and furniture scrapers (also putty
knives sharpened like furniture scrapers) on two boat projects with
great results. Removing excess epoxy in this way is far easier and
less messy than sanding. I was concerned about the heat permanently
affecting the strength of the epoxy but the people at Gougeon
Brothers said that as long as you don't char the epoxy there is no
strength degradation. Only prolonged exposure (days, weeks) to high
temperatures would cause a strength problem. I believe that this
method can cut many hours out of "excess epoxy" removal.
Al, in Ann Arbor
I have been using a heat gun and furniture scrapers (also putty
knives sharpened like furniture scrapers) on two boat projects with
great results. Removing excess epoxy in this way is far easier and
less messy than sanding. I was concerned about the heat permanently
affecting the strength of the epoxy but the people at Gougeon
Brothers said that as long as you don't char the epoxy there is no
strength degradation. Only prolonged exposure (days, weeks) to high
temperatures would cause a strength problem. I believe that this
method can cut many hours out of "excess epoxy" removal.
Al, in Ann Arbor
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Harry W. James" <welshman@p...> wrote:
> I had forgotten about using a heat gun. You can peel fiberglass up
really
> easily with one. Get a corner up and grab hold with pliers and pull
while
> working the heat gun ahead of where it is lifting. You could try
with a hair
> drier, but it probably doesn't get hot enough. Harbor Freight has an
> inexpensive gun that works fine for this.
>
> HJ
>
> >
> > Two second blast from heat gun, scrap epoxy off like putty.
> >
> > Makes those odd, tight corners a simple matter. Run heat gun over
epoxy,
> > scrape with scraper. repeat. Beats the %@#% out of sanding...
> >
> > Richard Spelling,http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats
> > >From the muddy waters of Oklahoma
>
> _ _ _ _ _
> % Harry welshman@p...
Watch out for the fumes. I was scraping old polyester resin off the inside
of a canoe when I found out how well heat works. I had left the canoe right
side up on sawhorses, under a polytarp overnight. When I started work about
midday, I just peeled back the tarp for a few feet. The sun had really
warmed things up, and it was like an oven in the canoe -- the resin just
peeled off, no problem, but within a few minutes I was staggering like a
drunk, had to sit down as I couldn't stand without holding on to something.
Felt like hell too, bad headache and nausea. So wear a good fume filtering
mask, and don't breath that stuff!
Jamie Orr
PS I finished the job with a heat gun, just as you suggest, but with a mask
and lots of ventilation.
-----Original Message-----
From: Harry W. James [mailto:welshman@...]
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 9:16 PM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: so-and-so FG butt block
I had forgotten about using a heat gun. You can peel fiberglass up really
easily with one. Get a corner up and grab hold with pliers and pull while
working the heat gun ahead of where it is lifting. You could try with a hair
drier, but it probably doesn't get hot enough. Harbor Freight has an
inexpensive gun that works fine for this.
HJ
% Harrywelshman@...
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing
- stay on topic
- use punctuation
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
of a canoe when I found out how well heat works. I had left the canoe right
side up on sawhorses, under a polytarp overnight. When I started work about
midday, I just peeled back the tarp for a few feet. The sun had really
warmed things up, and it was like an oven in the canoe -- the resin just
peeled off, no problem, but within a few minutes I was staggering like a
drunk, had to sit down as I couldn't stand without holding on to something.
Felt like hell too, bad headache and nausea. So wear a good fume filtering
mask, and don't breath that stuff!
Jamie Orr
PS I finished the job with a heat gun, just as you suggest, but with a mask
and lots of ventilation.
-----Original Message-----
From: Harry W. James [mailto:welshman@...]
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 9:16 PM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: so-and-so FG butt block
I had forgotten about using a heat gun. You can peel fiberglass up really
easily with one. Get a corner up and grab hold with pliers and pull while
working the heat gun ahead of where it is lifting. You could try with a hair
drier, but it probably doesn't get hot enough. Harbor Freight has an
inexpensive gun that works fine for this.
HJ
>_ _ _ _ _
> Two second blast from heat gun, scrap epoxy off like putty.
>
> Makes those odd, tight corners a simple matter. Run heat gun over epoxy,
> scrape with scraper. repeat. Beats the %@#% out of sanding...
>
> Richard Spelling,http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats
> >From the muddy waters of Oklahoma
% Harrywelshman@...
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing
- stay on topic
- use punctuation
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
I had forgotten about using a heat gun. You can peel fiberglass up really
easily with one. Get a corner up and grab hold with pliers and pull while
working the heat gun ahead of where it is lifting. You could try with a hair
drier, but it probably doesn't get hot enough. Harbor Freight has an
inexpensive gun that works fine for this.
HJ
% Harrywelshman@...
easily with one. Get a corner up and grab hold with pliers and pull while
working the heat gun ahead of where it is lifting. You could try with a hair
drier, but it probably doesn't get hot enough. Harbor Freight has an
inexpensive gun that works fine for this.
HJ
>_ _ _ _ _
> Two second blast from heat gun, scrap epoxy off like putty.
>
> Makes those odd, tight corners a simple matter. Run heat gun over epoxy,
> scrape with scraper. repeat. Beats the %@#% out of sanding...
>
> Richard Spelling,http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats
> >From the muddy waters of Oklahoma
% Harrywelshman@...
Two second blast from heat gun, scrap epoxy off like putty.
Makes those odd, tight corners a simple matter. Run heat gun over epoxy,
scrape with scraper. repeat. Beats the %@#% out of sanding...
Richard Spelling,http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats
From the muddy waters of Oklahoma
Makes those odd, tight corners a simple matter. Run heat gun over epoxy,
scrape with scraper. repeat. Beats the %@#% out of sanding...
Richard Spelling,http://www.spellingbusiness.com/boats
From the muddy waters of Oklahoma
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leander S. Harding" <lharding@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 12:00 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: so-and-so FG butt block
>
> --- How do you use the Heat Gun?
> Leander
> > Using that, and judicios application of a heat gun, has made
> boatbuilding a
> > much more pleasant task, and I'm getting a much smoother finish
> than
> was
> > possible before, for less work.
> >
> > >
> >
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
--- How do you use the Heat Gun?
Leander
was
Leander
> Using that, and judicios application of a heat gun, has madeboatbuilding a
> much more pleasant task, and I'm getting a much smoother finishthan
was
> possible before, for less work.
>
> >
>
When I visited Mike Stockstill, he suggested using a sureform rasp. Have to
say, this is one of the best ideas I've seen in awhile.
While it hasn't completely eliminated the need for a sander, it sure makes
life easier on the larsboat I'm making. I even went out and bought a small
one, about 1 1/2 inches long, for inside the boat.
Using that, and judicios application of a heat gun, has made boatbuilding a
much more pleasant task, and I'm getting a much smoother finish than was
possible before, for less work.
say, this is one of the best ideas I've seen in awhile.
While it hasn't completely eliminated the need for a sander, it sure makes
life easier on the larsboat I'm making. I even went out and bought a small
one, about 1 1/2 inches long, for inside the boat.
Using that, and judicios application of a heat gun, has made boatbuilding a
much more pleasant task, and I'm getting a much smoother finish than was
possible before, for less work.
>
> When I visited Dynamite Payson this summer he told me he no longer
> wants to build anything that involves sanding fiberglass. He doesn't
> mind putting it on but he hates sanding it off.
>
>Vince:
> Vince Chew
>
> P.S. Can anyone tell me how to solve my problem with this posting
> editor?
>
I simply post to:bolger@egroups.comusing my regular e-mail program.
Somehow through the magic of the internet, they end up on egroups. You
might give that a try.
Chuck
http://www.egroups.com/files/bolger/Dakota/Dakota05.jpgshows a 40
foot X 4 foot panel with four fiberglass butt splices being picked up
and moved. Using the method I described in message 7204, I got quite
good results taping both sides simultaneously. Since I had to make
four
panels for the shoe and six for the bottom, it was worth the effort
to
make up the laminated clamps. If you are only doing a couple, it
might
not be worth the trouble.
I make sure when I am dishing out the ends of the sheets to receive
the
tape that I remove the proper amount of material. It is better to err
on the side of removing a bit too much rather than too little since
it
is
far
easier to fair a slight hollow than it is to sand down a hump.
Vince Chew
P.S. Can anyone tell me how to solve my problem with this posting
editor?
foot X 4 foot panel with four fiberglass butt splices being picked up
and moved. Using the method I described in message 7204, I got quite
good results taping both sides simultaneously. Since I had to make
four
panels for the shoe and six for the bottom, it was worth the effort
to
make up the laminated clamps. If you are only doing a couple, it
might
not be worth the trouble.
I make sure when I am dishing out the ends of the sheets to receive
the
tape that I remove the proper amount of material. It is better to err
on the side of removing a bit too much rather than too little since
it
is
far
easier to fair a slight hollow than it is to sand down a hump.
Vince Chew
P.S. Can anyone tell me how to solve my problem with this posting
editor?
>Pippo: I always use a belt sander with a coarse grit, or an angle grinder
> Harry, Leander and the others, I'm just curious now: what did you do
> when you FG butt blocks failed? Scraped the FG down to the bare wood
> like I did? I'll tell you, it was hard work. Even if I catched it
> with less than 24 hours cure time , it took one good hour of tough
> scraping with the long Surform. And a lot of itch on hands...
with a sandpaper disk. Either of these will make fast work of FG.
>FG isTo turn over two joined panels that are glassed on one side only, do as
> nasty stuff. Moreover, mine was pretty tough stuff (9 oz biaxial)...
> I'm tempted to do 1 layer at a time, but since what I'm doing is to
> join the two Micro hull sides (10 mm thick), I'm scared to break the
> joint when turning the panel upside down...
> Best, Pippo
>
Leander mentioned and clamp a board across the joint before turning the
whole thing over. Two boards (one on each edge) works even better.
Chuck
Hi,
I have only done this once, so I am no expert, but both sides of my joints
came out very well.
I used a 2 ft x 4 ft piece of HD particle board under my layups, and the
same size on top of the layups, with probably 100 lbs of weigh on the
sandwitch. I covered the particle board with polyethelene so that it would
not stick. I think that one thing that you need to be carefull of is not to
use too much epoxy on the cloth. It is only necessary to use enough to
completely wet the F/G cloth. Any more than that does not add any strength,
and will ooze out and make the joint harder to fair. I used a sheet of poly
on my work bench and wet the cloth there before putting it on the poly on
the jig. I made sure that the wood was wet out as well before placing it in
position. I pretty well followed Dave Carnell's directions. I did goof up
in another way. I made the side joints seperately. When I got thru they
did not match exactly because I did not have the joint properly aligned. I
am building anther boat, and this time I will stack the sides, and make both
joints at the same time so that the side will match perfectly. They might
not be perfect, but they will be alike!
James Fuller
I have only done this once, so I am no expert, but both sides of my joints
came out very well.
I used a 2 ft x 4 ft piece of HD particle board under my layups, and the
same size on top of the layups, with probably 100 lbs of weigh on the
sandwitch. I covered the particle board with polyethelene so that it would
not stick. I think that one thing that you need to be carefull of is not to
use too much epoxy on the cloth. It is only necessary to use enough to
completely wet the F/G cloth. Any more than that does not add any strength,
and will ooze out and make the joint harder to fair. I used a sheet of poly
on my work bench and wet the cloth there before putting it on the poly on
the jig. I made sure that the wood was wet out as well before placing it in
position. I pretty well followed Dave Carnell's directions. I did goof up
in another way. I made the side joints seperately. When I got thru they
did not match exactly because I did not have the joint properly aligned. I
am building anther boat, and this time I will stack the sides, and make both
joints at the same time so that the side will match perfectly. They might
not be perfect, but they will be alike!
James Fuller
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leander S. Harding" <lharding@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2000 8:19 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: so-and-so FG butt block
>