Re: [bolger] Elegant Punt
Very easy boat to build. I built mine as a throwaway dinghy, if I get
two seasons out of it I will be way ahead. I used PL Premium and
staples, the only thing screwed in is the bottom strips. No epoxy, no
fiberglass. I don't use AC plywood anymore but I did on this one because
of the basic philosophy. $60 invested, leftover paint from the local
store, about 25 hrs of time.
Third picture down
http://tritonclass.org/mir/144ta.html
HJ
mike wrote:
two seasons out of it I will be way ahead. I used PL Premium and
staples, the only thing screwed in is the bottom strips. No epoxy, no
fiberglass. I don't use AC plywood anymore but I did on this one because
of the basic philosophy. $60 invested, leftover paint from the local
store, about 25 hrs of time.
Third picture down
http://tritonclass.org/mir/144ta.html
HJ
mike wrote:
> Hi,I am toying with the idea of building the Elegant Punt this winter.
> I live in Canada (Edmonton) gets really cold here in the winter, cant
> go and work outside in my garage(not heated)so would like to build a
> small boat in the basement.....1, would have to be small enough to drag
> out of there without breaking down the house..2, have to build it using
> regular glue (Titebond or something similar)because of the odor and
> gases, while drying, I refuse to use epoxy inside the house...3, want
> it to be light and easy to maneuver single handedly 4, Its a question?
> Has anyone ever put a small gas engine on one of those,(around 2hp)...
> 5 would epoxy the chines outdoors in the spring/ its a boat project to
> keep me busy in the cold months,not much of a television watcher (dont
> even watch hockey!! capital sin for a Canadian) rather tinker with
> something in the garage but cant do it in the winter...built Skimmer 3
> years ago but a young fellow bought it right from under me (made an
> offer I couldnt refuse)built a GV11 this spring(bateau2.com)kinda heavy
> to manhandle tough, have come up with a simple idea of how to load it
> up on the roof of my canopy but have to weld it up in the shop where I
> work this winter so thanks for any replies MIke Redmond
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Hi,I am toying with the idea of building the Elegant Punt this winter.
I live in Canada (Edmonton) gets really cold here in the winter, cant
go and work outside in my garage(not heated)so would like to build a
small boat in the basement.....1, would have to be small enough to drag
out of there without breaking down the house..2, have to build it using
regular glue (Titebond or something similar)because of the odor and
gases, while drying, I refuse to use epoxy inside the house...3, want
it to be light and easy to maneuver single handedly 4, Its a question?
Has anyone ever put a small gas engine on one of those,(around 2hp)...
5 would epoxy the chines outdoors in the spring/ its a boat project to
keep me busy in the cold months,not much of a television watcher (dont
even watch hockey!! capital sin for a Canadian) rather tinker with
something in the garage but cant do it in the winter...built Skimmer 3
years ago but a young fellow bought it right from under me (made an
offer I couldnt refuse)built a GV11 this spring(bateau2.com)kinda heavy
to manhandle tough, have come up with a simple idea of how to load it
up on the roof of my canopy but have to weld it up in the shop where I
work this winter so thanks for any replies MIke Redmond
I live in Canada (Edmonton) gets really cold here in the winter, cant
go and work outside in my garage(not heated)so would like to build a
small boat in the basement.....1, would have to be small enough to drag
out of there without breaking down the house..2, have to build it using
regular glue (Titebond or something similar)because of the odor and
gases, while drying, I refuse to use epoxy inside the house...3, want
it to be light and easy to maneuver single handedly 4, Its a question?
Has anyone ever put a small gas engine on one of those,(around 2hp)...
5 would epoxy the chines outdoors in the spring/ its a boat project to
keep me busy in the cold months,not much of a television watcher (dont
even watch hockey!! capital sin for a Canadian) rather tinker with
something in the garage but cant do it in the winter...built Skimmer 3
years ago but a young fellow bought it right from under me (made an
offer I couldnt refuse)built a GV11 this spring(bateau2.com)kinda heavy
to manhandle tough, have come up with a simple idea of how to load it
up on the roof of my canopy but have to weld it up in the shop where I
work this winter so thanks for any replies MIke Redmond
It appears to be Rubens Nymph. The length and beam are exactly right,
transom looks similar and framing with longitudinal seat is right.
Doug
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@...>
wrote:
transom looks similar and framing with longitudinal seat is right.
Doug
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "graeme19121984" <graeme19121984@...>
wrote:
>
> I hadn't seen this one.
>http://boothbayregister.maine.com/1998-07-16/dinghy_for_disabled.html
> Is it based on EP?
>
> Graeme
>
I hadn't seen this one.
http://boothbayregister.maine.com/1998-07-16/dinghy_for_disabled.html
Is it based on EP?
Graeme
http://boothbayregister.maine.com/1998-07-16/dinghy_for_disabled.html
Is it based on EP?
Graeme
Payson says that installing the chines and gunnel's on the EP is one of
the harder tasks in the Instant boat fleet. He says make them only 3/4's
by 1 and 1/8 instead of the 1 1/2 shown. If you do that and use the
Spanish windlass as recommended, they go in easy. This is the only boat
I have ever used the Spanish windlass on.
HJ
bobffej wrote:
the harder tasks in the Instant boat fleet. He says make them only 3/4's
by 1 and 1/8 instead of the 1 1/2 shown. If you do that and use the
Spanish windlass as recommended, they go in easy. This is the only boat
I have ever used the Spanish windlass on.
HJ
bobffej wrote:
> That is the great thing about wood, it bends.
>
> And the act of attaching bent wood to the side adds strength to the
> form.
>
> Having never built an EP but admired the design it would seem that
> you will be bending the chines in two directions: along the curve of
> the bottom and along the bend of the side. It might be difficult
> with a single piece of dimensional lumber but with a couple of
> thinner pieces would certainly be managable. With lots of glue and
> clamps of course.
>
> Now you know why boat builders need so many clamps.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "pvanderwaart" <pvanderw@...> wrote:
>
>>> As the sides are laid down flat on the ground...with the bottom
>>>
>> edges
>>
>>> closer to my feet than the top edges... the bottom edge at my
>>>
> feet
>
>>> and the top edges layed away from me...the edges make a "smiley
>>>
>> face
>>
>>> curve"...the chines and rub rails layed before me make a
>>>
> straight
>
>>> line...now how in the world are the two situations of smiley and
>>> straight to run together????
>>>
>> The building sequence is to attach the "smiley face" sides to the
>>
> mid-
>
>> ships frame, and then to the fore and aft transoms. To put on a
>> chine, it first gets fastened midships, then along the curve of
>>
> the
>
>> ply going forward, then aft. Do both sides at the same time. I.e.
>>
> one
>
>> nail of progress port, then one nail of progress starboard.
>>
>> PHV
>>
>>
That is the great thing about wood, it bends.
And the act of attaching bent wood to the side adds strength to the
form.
Having never built an EP but admired the design it would seem that
you will be bending the chines in two directions: along the curve of
the bottom and along the bend of the side. It might be difficult
with a single piece of dimensional lumber but with a couple of
thinner pieces would certainly be managable. With lots of glue and
clamps of course.
Now you know why boat builders need so many clamps.
Jeff
And the act of attaching bent wood to the side adds strength to the
form.
Having never built an EP but admired the design it would seem that
you will be bending the chines in two directions: along the curve of
the bottom and along the bend of the side. It might be difficult
with a single piece of dimensional lumber but with a couple of
thinner pieces would certainly be managable. With lots of glue and
clamps of course.
Now you know why boat builders need so many clamps.
Jeff
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "pvanderwaart" <pvanderw@...> wrote:
>
> > As the sides are laid down flat on the ground...with the bottom
> edges
> > closer to my feet than the top edges... the bottom edge at my
feet
> > and the top edges layed away from me...the edges make a "smiley
> face
> > curve"...the chines and rub rails layed before me make a
straight
> > line...now how in the world are the two situations of smiley and
> > straight to run together????
>
> The building sequence is to attach the "smiley face" sides to the
mid-
> ships frame, and then to the fore and aft transoms. To put on a
> chine, it first gets fastened midships, then along the curve of
the
> ply going forward, then aft. Do both sides at the same time. I.e.
one
> nail of progress port, then one nail of progress starboard.
>
> PHV
>
I have a brand new one in the shop, built out of AC and spruce for
dimensional lumber. Normally I would not use AC, it is just not worth
it. In this case I consider the EP disposable both from a cost stand
point and labor. I have 20 hrs and $60 in it with free paint on the
outside and a $2 can when K mart went out of business locally on the
inside. I used a staple gun with stainless staples and PL Premium to put
it together. It is absolutely stock, no sail or sail equipment.
I just picked it up in the shop and got on the scales, 58 lbs.
HJ
Michael McClellan wrote:
dimensional lumber. Normally I would not use AC, it is just not worth
it. In this case I consider the EP disposable both from a cost stand
point and labor. I have 20 hrs and $60 in it with free paint on the
outside and a $2 can when K mart went out of business locally on the
inside. I used a staple gun with stainless staples and PL Premium to put
it together. It is absolutely stock, no sail or sail equipment.
I just picked it up in the shop and got on the scales, 58 lbs.
HJ
Michael McClellan wrote:
> Has anyone weighed theirs ? I have plenty of muscle.....but very
> little back left to tear up. Any changes ? Seat ? Wood ? Cartopping ?
> Mike McClellan in Mississippi
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Has anyone weighed theirs ? I have plenty of muscle.....but very
little back left to tear up. Any changes ? Seat ? Wood ? Cartopping ?
Mike McClellan in Mississippi
little back left to tear up. Any changes ? Seat ? Wood ? Cartopping ?
Mike McClellan in Mississippi
No ,
the Spur II rowing boat is "Greyfax" , "Kate" is the 8' 6'' Iain Oughtred designed Clinker-Ply tender for "Merlin"
"Kate" is undergoing a bit of maintainence after about 4 years fairly heavy use and she needs touching-up in a few places not to mention some new paint.
The paint on the elegant punt is marine grade, Epiglass paint I think?!
Our 28' x 10' Bolger Lobsterboat is coming along very well. By the end of the week the backbone/keel structure should be all glued and bolted together and set-up in the building shed.
Hugo Tyson, Launceston, Tasmania, Australia.
Nels <arvent@...> wrote:
the Spur II rowing boat is "Greyfax" , "Kate" is the 8' 6'' Iain Oughtred designed Clinker-Ply tender for "Merlin"
"Kate" is undergoing a bit of maintainence after about 4 years fairly heavy use and she needs touching-up in a few places not to mention some new paint.
The paint on the elegant punt is marine grade, Epiglass paint I think?!
Our 28' x 10' Bolger Lobsterboat is coming along very well. By the end of the week the backbone/keel structure should be all glued and bolted together and set-up in the building shed.
Hugo Tyson, Launceston, Tasmania, Australia.
Nels <arvent@...> wrote:
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@h...> wrote:
>
> That would be Kate, Tyson's SpurII
>
> Photos over in bolger4photos in the "Tyson's Folder".
>
>http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger4photos/lst
>
> I think we need a website just for those Taz Bolgeristas!
>
> Nels
On second thought it is not Kate:
http://tinyurl.com/7krj3
It is Greyfax and here is a favorite photo:-) Hope it works as I had
trouble finding it!
http://tinyurl.com/8zrl2
Nels
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
---------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
Visit your group "bolger" on the web.
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Exclusive 'King Kong' Trailer from the maker of 'The Lord of the Rings'
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@h...> wrote:
http://tinyurl.com/7krj3
It is Greyfax and here is a favorite photo:-) Hope it works as I had
trouble finding it!
http://tinyurl.com/8zrl2
Nels
>On second thought it is not Kate:
> That would be Kate, Tyson's SpurII
>
> Photos over in bolger4photos in the "Tyson's Folder".
>
>http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger4photos/lst
>
> I think we need a website just for those Taz Bolgeristas!
>
> Nels
http://tinyurl.com/7krj3
It is Greyfax and here is a favorite photo:-) Hope it works as I had
trouble finding it!
http://tinyurl.com/8zrl2
Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@w...> wrote:
Photos over in bolger4photos in the "Tyson's Folder".
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger4photos/lst
I think we need a website just for those Taz Bolgeristas!
Nels
> This has to be the most elegant Elegant Punt in the world.That would be Kate, Tyson's SpurII
> I like that rakish bugger in the background,
> DonB
>http://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/
Photos over in bolger4photos in the "Tyson's Folder".
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger4photos/lst
I think we need a website just for those Taz Bolgeristas!
Nels
This has to be the most elegant Elegant Punt in the world.
I like that rakish bugger in the background,
DonB
http://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/
I like that rakish bugger in the background,
DonB
http://oink.kiwiwebhost.biz/
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Nels" <arvent@h...> wrote:
> Hi Hugo,
>
> Great photos of the Elegant Punt. I like the detail work and the three
> rowing positions! What type of paint was used?
>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger5/files/Elegant%20Punt/
>
> Nels
Hi Hugo,
Great photos of the Elegant Punt. I like the detail work and the three
rowing positions! What type of paint was used?
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger5/files/Elegant%20Punt/
Nels
Great photos of the Elegant Punt. I like the detail work and the three
rowing positions! What type of paint was used?
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger5/files/Elegant%20Punt/
Nels
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Lefebvre" <paul@w...> wrote:
safer ones:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/ak/Caulking/index.html
"3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant is also a great product. This high
performance polyurethane adhesive/sealant becomes tack-free in 48
hours, completely cures in 5-7 days with no shrinkage. Seal retains
its strength above or below the water line. Stays flexible, allows
for structural movement. Easy to apply with a caulk gun or with
smaller squeeze tubes. Remains workable for up to hours and won't
sag at seams."
So it is polyurethane based the same as Brightside paints? I believe
it is the solvents that are the danger and with caulking in tubes
you should not even touch the stuff and can wear a charcoal filtered
dust mask if in doubt.
I have seen water-based acrylic porch paints and some painters swear
by them. You might consider checking the latest testing done by
Consumer Reports at your nearest library.
And while you are at it, teach your daughter about robertson screws
eh? A Canadian invention called "square drive" screws in the lower
48. If you can't find them let me know the size you need and I will
send you some corrosive resistance deck screws and a driver:-P
Cheers, Nels
> Any data out there on whether 3M 5200, or for that matter porchenamel, is
> any more or less hazardous to humans than epoxy?You might want to call the toll free number here, and ask about the
>
safer ones:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/ak/Caulking/index.html
"3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant is also a great product. This high
performance polyurethane adhesive/sealant becomes tack-free in 48
hours, completely cures in 5-7 days with no shrinkage. Seal retains
its strength above or below the water line. Stays flexible, allows
for structural movement. Easy to apply with a caulk gun or with
smaller squeeze tubes. Remains workable for up to hours and won't
sag at seams."
So it is polyurethane based the same as Brightside paints? I believe
it is the solvents that are the danger and with caulking in tubes
you should not even touch the stuff and can wear a charcoal filtered
dust mask if in doubt.
I have seen water-based acrylic porch paints and some painters swear
by them. You might consider checking the latest testing done by
Consumer Reports at your nearest library.
And while you are at it, teach your daughter about robertson screws
eh? A Canadian invention called "square drive" screws in the lower
48. If you can't find them let me know the size you need and I will
send you some corrosive resistance deck screws and a driver:-P
Cheers, Nels
I think the main problem with epoxy is that a significant proportion of
people develop an allergy to it. Sorry, no data.
If we're talking about environmental hazards, don't forget to include
the sawdust from certain species of timber -- and then there's
rotproofing-treated timber.
Howard
people develop an allergy to it. Sorry, no data.
If we're talking about environmental hazards, don't forget to include
the sawdust from certain species of timber -- and then there's
rotproofing-treated timber.
Howard
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Lefebvre" <paul@w...> wrote:
> Any data out there on whether 3M 5200, or for that matter porch
enamel, is
> any more or less hazardous to humans than epoxy?
Any data out there on whether 3M 5200, or for that matter porch enamel, is
any more or less hazardous to humans than epoxy?
I've got loads of environmental allergies, but so far in 6 boats including 4
epoxy-intensive strippers, I've yet to develop a sensitivity or show any
other ill effects - knock wood! So I often wonder if I'm missing something,
being rather health-conscious in general, when I see people going out of
their way to avoid epoxy. I wonder if folks are just confusing polyester
resin with epoxy - now THAT is some nasty stuff! But maybe there's more to
it, and if so I'd appreciate any links, etc. to more info.
nifty idea about the bullnose router bit - I've got one and am gonna have to
try that. EP's frame bits are all cut out, it'd be slick to set the router
table just so, and run 'em through to help in glue-up.
Paul Lefebvre
-----Original Message-----
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Nels
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2005 3:43 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Elegant Punt
Looking at the diagram on Dynamite's website it looks to me like EP
has all external framing.
http://instantboats.com/images/epunts.gif
So I am wondering if one took all the fames and applied the "Lenihan
hollow" to each side that is in contact with the plywood including the
bottom runners. Might be easiest to clamp them down and use a router
with a bullnose bit? (Peter uses his grinder on an angle I believe.)
Then you run a bead of 5200 along the hollow and nail it on with ring
nails or even temporary drywall screws.
Then you run a bead of 5200 all along every seam inside and finish
with porch enamel.
Life expectancy? Maybe 20 years if the dings are repainted properly.
The thing is you might outlive it because you won't be playing with
epoxy:-)
Nels
http://instantboats.com/images/epunts.gif
any more or less hazardous to humans than epoxy?
I've got loads of environmental allergies, but so far in 6 boats including 4
epoxy-intensive strippers, I've yet to develop a sensitivity or show any
other ill effects - knock wood! So I often wonder if I'm missing something,
being rather health-conscious in general, when I see people going out of
their way to avoid epoxy. I wonder if folks are just confusing polyester
resin with epoxy - now THAT is some nasty stuff! But maybe there's more to
it, and if so I'd appreciate any links, etc. to more info.
nifty idea about the bullnose router bit - I've got one and am gonna have to
try that. EP's frame bits are all cut out, it'd be slick to set the router
table just so, and run 'em through to help in glue-up.
Paul Lefebvre
-----Original Message-----
From:bolger@yahoogroups.com[mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of
Nels
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2005 3:43 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Elegant Punt
Looking at the diagram on Dynamite's website it looks to me like EP
has all external framing.
http://instantboats.com/images/epunts.gif
So I am wondering if one took all the fames and applied the "Lenihan
hollow" to each side that is in contact with the plywood including the
bottom runners. Might be easiest to clamp them down and use a router
with a bullnose bit? (Peter uses his grinder on an angle I believe.)
Then you run a bead of 5200 along the hollow and nail it on with ring
nails or even temporary drywall screws.
Then you run a bead of 5200 all along every seam inside and finish
with porch enamel.
Life expectancy? Maybe 20 years if the dings are repainted properly.
The thing is you might outlive it because you won't be playing with
epoxy:-)
Nels
http://instantboats.com/images/epunts.gif
Looking at the diagram on Dynamite's website it looks to me like EP
has all external framing.
http://instantboats.com/images/epunts.gif
So I am wondering if one took all the fames and applied the "Lenihan
hollow" to each side that is in contact with the plywood including the
bottom runners. Might be easiest to clamp them down and use a router
with a bullnose bit? (Peter uses his grinder on an angle I believe.)
Then you run a bead of 5200 along the hollow and nail it on with ring
nails or even temporary drywall screws.
Then you run a bead of 5200 all along every seam inside and finish
with porch enamel.
Life expectancy? Maybe 20 years if the dings are repainted properly.
The thing is you might outlive it because you won't be playing with
epoxy:-)
Nels
http://instantboats.com/images/epunts.gif
has all external framing.
http://instantboats.com/images/epunts.gif
So I am wondering if one took all the fames and applied the "Lenihan
hollow" to each side that is in contact with the plywood including the
bottom runners. Might be easiest to clamp them down and use a router
with a bullnose bit? (Peter uses his grinder on an angle I believe.)
Then you run a bead of 5200 along the hollow and nail it on with ring
nails or even temporary drywall screws.
Then you run a bead of 5200 all along every seam inside and finish
with porch enamel.
Life expectancy? Maybe 20 years if the dings are repainted properly.
The thing is you might outlive it because you won't be playing with
epoxy:-)
Nels
http://instantboats.com/images/epunts.gif
> As the sides are laid down flat on the ground...with the bottomedges
> closer to my feet than the top edges... the bottom edge at my feetface
> and the top edges layed away from me...the edges make a "smiley
> curve"...the chines and rub rails layed before me make a straightThe building sequence is to attach the "smiley face" sides to the mid-
> line...now how in the world are the two situations of smiley and
> straight to run together????
ships frame, and then to the fore and aft transoms. To put on a
chine, it first gets fastened midships, then along the curve of the
ply going forward, then aft. Do both sides at the same time. I.e. one
nail of progress port, then one nail of progress starboard.
PHV
I've read the posts to me and I still can't conceptualize how it's
going to work...
As the sides are laid down flat on the ground...with the bottom edges
closer to my feet than the top edges... the bottom edge at my feet
and the top edges layed away from me...the edges make a "smiley face
curve"...the chines and rub rails layed before me make a straight
line...now how in the world are the two situations of smiley and
straight to run together????
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "choochawaga" <soulinvictus@c...>
wrote:
going to work...
As the sides are laid down flat on the ground...with the bottom edges
closer to my feet than the top edges... the bottom edge at my feet
and the top edges layed away from me...the edges make a "smiley face
curve"...the chines and rub rails layed before me make a straight
line...now how in the world are the two situations of smiley and
straight to run together????
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "choochawaga" <soulinvictus@c...>
wrote:
> In reference to the Elegant Punt...Does anyone know how to meaureup
> and put on the top side "rub rail" and bottom side chines? Side the
> sides' top and bottom edge are curved while flat won't the rub rail
> and chines have to be curved before putting on?
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
> won't the rub railI used phillipine mahogany, and I steamed the pieces and bent them to
> and chines have to be curved before putting on?
a rough approximation of the required curve on the flat. That is, I
bent them around nails on a flat floor with the 2" side on the flat.
The bend in the 1" direction is easier, but it still deflects the ply
side a lot. That's one reason that no two boats are exactl the same.
One of the bottom skids broke when I bent it to the curve of the
bottom. For such a simple-looking boat, it has a lot of shape. If I
were going to build just for a tiny yacht tender, I'd go with Tortise.
Peter
they will curve as you install them. remember the
panels were also flat when you started out. begin in
the middle and work you way out towards the ends.
--- choochawaga <soulinvictus@...> wrote:
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
panels were also flat when you started out. begin in
the middle and work you way out towards the ends.
--- choochawaga <soulinvictus@...> wrote:
> In reference to the Elegant Punt...Does anyone know__________________________________
> how to meaure up
> and put on the top side "rub rail" and bottom side
> chines? Side the
> sides' top and bottom edge are curved while flat
> won't the rub rail
> and chines have to be curved before putting on?
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
>
>
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com
In reference to the Elegant Punt...Does anyone know how to meaure up
and put on the top side "rub rail" and bottom side chines? Side the
sides' top and bottom edge are curved while flat won't the rub rail
and chines have to be curved before putting on?
Thanks,
Dave
and put on the top side "rub rail" and bottom side chines? Side the
sides' top and bottom edge are curved while flat won't the rub rail
and chines have to be curved before putting on?
Thanks,
Dave
Sam -
When I built my E. Punt, I took the advice of others and installed a simple
skeg. I've never rowed an E. Punt without the skeg, so I can't comment on
whether or not it improves the tracking -- I think it does, but can't prove
it.
I figures that it was such a simple matter to make up a skeg and attach it
that it couldn't hurt.
David
On Sun, 7 Jul 2002 09:50:55 -0700 (PDT) Sam Glasscock
<glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
Does anyone in the group have experience with the E.
Punt and whether the boat needs a skeg to row well?
When I built my E. Punt, I took the advice of others and installed a simple
skeg. I've never rowed an E. Punt without the skeg, so I can't comment on
whether or not it improves the tracking -- I think it does, but can't prove
it.
I figures that it was such a simple matter to make up a skeg and attach it
that it couldn't hurt.
David
On Sun, 7 Jul 2002 09:50:55 -0700 (PDT) Sam Glasscock
<glasscocklanding@...> wrote:
Does anyone in the group have experience with the E.
Punt and whether the boat needs a skeg to row well?
Looks to me like that would make it easier to push but harder to row.
I'm hoping the curvature of the Auray Punt's bow will be sufficient
to
keep the wheel more or less clear of the water when under way.
I'm hoping the curvature of the Auray Punt's bow will be sufficient
to
keep the wheel more or less clear of the water when under way.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Peter Vanderwaart" <pvanderw@o...> wrote:
> >With a
> > couple of handles screwed to the stern transom, it should trundle
> up
> > and down the beach with a load of gear in it, like a barrow boat.
>
> I would think it would work better with the handles on the front,
> wheels on the back, pushing it backward. No?
>
> Peter
The latest Watercraft magazine shows some "barrow boats" -- they have a
small wheel under the bow transom, and holes in the stern transom to put the
oars through to use as handles -- might save adding handles. Good magazine
anyway, worth getting.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Smith [mailto:timk_smith@...]
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 8:15 AM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Elegant Punt
Hear hear. We've got a bunch of dinghys to serve our Bolger fleet,
and
the Elegant Punt is in many ways the most useful, because you can
carry
it solo, slung over your shoulder. Partly for that reason, I'm
thinking about putting a wheel on the bow of our Auray Punt. With a
couple of handles screwed to the stern transom, it should trundle up
and down the beach with a load of gear in it, like a barrow boat.
- no cursing
- stay on topic
- use punctuation
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
small wheel under the bow transom, and holes in the stern transom to put the
oars through to use as handles -- might save adding handles. Good magazine
anyway, worth getting.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Smith [mailto:timk_smith@...]
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 8:15 AM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Elegant Punt
Hear hear. We've got a bunch of dinghys to serve our Bolger fleet,
and
the Elegant Punt is in many ways the most useful, because you can
carry
it solo, slung over your shoulder. Partly for that reason, I'm
thinking about putting a wheel on the bow of our Auray Punt. With a
couple of handles screwed to the stern transom, it should trundle up
and down the beach with a load of gear in it, like a barrow boat.
>Bolger rules!!!
> Elegant punts forever!
>
> Jamie Orr
- no cursing
- stay on topic
- use punctuation
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>With aup
> couple of handles screwed to the stern transom, it should trundle
> and down the beach with a load of gear in it, like a barrow boat.I would think it would work better with the handles on the front,
wheels on the back, pushing it backward. No?
Peter
Hear hear. We've got a bunch of dinghys to serve our Bolger fleet,
and
the Elegant Punt is in many ways the most useful, because you can
carry
it solo, slung over your shoulder. Partly for that reason, I'm
thinking about putting a wheel on the bow of our Auray Punt. With a
couple of handles screwed to the stern transom, it should trundle up
and down the beach with a load of gear in it, like a barrow boat.
and
the Elegant Punt is in many ways the most useful, because you can
carry
it solo, slung over your shoulder. Partly for that reason, I'm
thinking about putting a wheel on the bow of our Auray Punt. With a
couple of handles screwed to the stern transom, it should trundle up
and down the beach with a load of gear in it, like a barrow boat.
>
> Elegant punts forever!
>
> Jamie Orr
Some time ago, there was a discussion about tenders, and the capacity
of the elegant punt. I have posted some pictures of my son's elegant
punt "Creamsicle" in the files (under Elegant Punt "Creamsicle",
oddly enough). These were taken while we cruised (a small part of)
the BC coast on a rented boat, towing the elegant punt. One of the
shots shows the whole family in the punt, over 400 lbs worth.
The resolution and scanning aren't perfect, but someone else scanned
them in as a favour, so who am I to complain?
Elegant punts forever!
Jamie Orr
of the elegant punt. I have posted some pictures of my son's elegant
punt "Creamsicle" in the files (under Elegant Punt "Creamsicle",
oddly enough). These were taken while we cruised (a small part of)
the BC coast on a rented boat, towing the elegant punt. One of the
shots shows the whole family in the punt, over 400 lbs worth.
The resolution and scanning aren't perfect, but someone else scanned
them in as a favour, so who am I to complain?
Elegant punts forever!
Jamie Orr