Re: [bolger] Re: Sprit Boomed Gaff Sails
Greetings All,
Good advice from Pete Reynolds.
I am not against wacky. I own a Long Micro. But get the thing offshore and
everything
must work easily and quickly if you are to avoid accidents. Part of
seamanship.
I rigged a sprit boom on my 40sq ft mizzen and rigging it or striking it in
strong winds it
can be nuisance of a thing. (No cursing.) I had the 20ft main sprit boom
made then had second thoughts. Even in the shed it looked dangerous. And I
couldn't figure out an easy way to reef the sail. Changed the main to a high
peaked gaff with a conventional boom on the foot. Same silloette as "Ocean
Leeboarder". It isn't perfect but I can pull in any of 3 reefs quickly and
safely.
The rigs in 100/103 rigs make for fasinating reading but notice that most of
them are on small boats where the loads (physical and financial) are
manageable. My limited experience suggests also that if you plan on going to
windward then you need a jib. A gaff or square headed rig has a limited
amount of luff and will lose a big percentage of that when reefed.
I daysail so have to return to where I started from. Even with planning
about 40% of my sailing DISTANCE is to windward. Considering that "Thylacine
sails faster running and reaching than to windward and remembering tacking
and leeway then I'd guess that TIME spent sailng to windward would be in the
order of at least 60-70%. Isn't hindsight wonderful. If I'd considered my
situation more accurately then I'd have surely built a different boat.
Regards, Gavin Langmuir.
Good advice from Pete Reynolds.
I am not against wacky. I own a Long Micro. But get the thing offshore and
everything
must work easily and quickly if you are to avoid accidents. Part of
seamanship.
I rigged a sprit boom on my 40sq ft mizzen and rigging it or striking it in
strong winds it
can be nuisance of a thing. (No cursing.) I had the 20ft main sprit boom
made then had second thoughts. Even in the shed it looked dangerous. And I
couldn't figure out an easy way to reef the sail. Changed the main to a high
peaked gaff with a conventional boom on the foot. Same silloette as "Ocean
Leeboarder". It isn't perfect but I can pull in any of 3 reefs quickly and
safely.
The rigs in 100/103 rigs make for fasinating reading but notice that most of
them are on small boats where the loads (physical and financial) are
manageable. My limited experience suggests also that if you plan on going to
windward then you need a jib. A gaff or square headed rig has a limited
amount of luff and will lose a big percentage of that when reefed.
I daysail so have to return to where I started from. Even with planning
about 40% of my sailing DISTANCE is to windward. Considering that "Thylacine
sails faster running and reaching than to windward and remembering tacking
and leeway then I'd guess that TIME spent sailng to windward would be in the
order of at least 60-70%. Isn't hindsight wonderful. If I'd considered my
situation more accurately then I'd have surely built a different boat.
Regards, Gavin Langmuir.
----- Original Message -----
From: <pmcrannell@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2000 2:24 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Sprit Boomed Gaff Sails
> Foster,
>
> I'm with Peter on the reefing issue. In your area, I would think
> reefing is VERY important.
>
> Depending on the size of the boat you're planning, I'd go with a
> gaff rig with a boom on the foot, if the boat is of any size at all.
> A sprit boom would be fine in a daysailor, or in sheltered areas, but
> I have serious misgivings if you're sailing in a lot of wind or going
> to sea.
>
> I'd rig the sprit to run out forward of the mast when reefed. It
> would lessen the chance of tripping it if you were slammed by a gust.
> This, however, presents problems if you'll be flying a jib while
> reefed, or there's another mast forward.
>
> A boom keeps everything attached to the boat. Reefing is a simple
> exercise with a good, stout topping lift. I like the lift to dead end
> at the mast end, running through to the end of the boom, then forward
> to a cleat at the forward end of the boom. A light tackle can be put
> in above the boom end if the boom is heavy. Simply tension the lift,
> ease the sheet, lower the halyards to get the new tack down, haul
> them TIGHT again. Then pull the clew down hard. It's best to have the
> reef block aft of the sail's reef ring, so that you get a lot of
> tension along the new foot. It should be 3-4" aft.
>
> If you have trouble getting enough tension, you can rig a winch,
> if the boat's big, or rig a tackle to the reef line. A three-part
> tackle would be cheap to rig.
>
> You'll need a boom vang if you go with a boom. Vangs will pull all
> the twist out of the sail, upwind or down. Racing boats use a
> technique called "vang sheeting" when going upwind. You yank the hell
> out of the vang (using the mainsheet to help, if needed). It takes
> care of the twist, while the sheet is used to adjust the athwartships
> trim. Very effective, and fast.
>
> In my opinion, Bolger goes overboard regarding the cost of blocks.
> Yes, they can be pricey, especially if you have a big boat. But there
> are plenty of alternate places to get them besides marine jewelry
> stores. Swap meets, used boat shows, snoop around for perished rigs
> at boatyards or dinghy clubs, etc. Learn some proper knots, and you
> can dispense with cam cleats by tying a knot around the parts or
> through one of the shackles.
>
> Take care,
> Pete Reynolds
>
>
> --- Inbolger@egroups.com, Foster Price <foster.price@s...> wrote:
> > Hello Guys
> >
> > I don't have a copy of PCB's "103 Rigs" so would appreciate some
> thoughts on
> > both your experiences and what PCB says in relation to how these
> work out.
> >
> > I would like to know how effective the self-vanging effect is with a
> > sprit-boomed gaff main, I understand the geometry of them with a
> bermudian
> > sail but can't just visulise the full effect with a gaff sail.
> >
> > Also what are the pros and cons of each system of rigging the boom:
> > 1) sprit-boom projecting in front of the mast as the sail is
> reduced; or
> > 2) the Munroe(?) system where the clew of the sail is advanced up
> the sprit
> > as in a conventional boom.
> >
> > Should the gaff be closer to the horizontal or vertical for best
> effect with
> > a sprit boom.
> >
> > I am particulary intersted in how it has worked out on bigger boats
> such as
> > "Africa" or similar.
> >
> > Thanks for your thoughts
> >
> > Foster Price
> > Southland, New Zealand
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
> I would like to know how effective the self-vanging effect is with a1. Clearance between masts. American sharpie workboats just let the
> sprit-boomed gaff main, I understand the geometry of them with a bermudian sail but can't just visulise the full effect with a gaff sail
>
> Also what are the pros and cons of each system of rigging the boom:
> 1) sprit-boom projecting in front of the mast as the sail is reduced;
> 2) the Munroe(?) system where the clew of the sail is advanced up the sprit as in a conventional boom.
sprit fall forward. At some point you poke the jib, if you have a jib.
2. Obviously this worked well enough for the old Commodore, who seems
to have been both intelligent and picky about how well things worked.
He loevd simplification, too.
> Should the gaff be closer to the horizontal or vertical for best effect with a sprit boom.I am not sure anyone knows from practice. I'd go for more vertical. I'd
even go for the Chapelle "pound-net-sharpie" style where the gaff is
really a batten and the head of the sail is triangular and continues to
the masthead.
There was an interesting discussion a while back about reefing sails
with sprit booms on the WoodenBoat Forum, see
http://media4.hypernet.com/~dick/ubb/Forum1/HTML/001473.html
although it was in the context of smaller boats.
It seems that normal slab reefing does work OK as long as the sail
runs on a track so the lacing doesn't interfere with the snotter
tackle. You of course need a topping lift, real halyard, reefing
lines, etc, buut it seems like it ought to work, and tying up the
bunt should be not much more difficult that a "normal" rig. Mind, I
haven't tried it yet. I agree, easy reefing is really important,
although even without it I always had fun with my Gypsy sailing on
lake Harriet on gusty days watching the MCs fall over.
with sprit booms on the WoodenBoat Forum, see
http://media4.hypernet.com/~dick/ubb/Forum1/HTML/001473.html
although it was in the context of smaller boats.
It seems that normal slab reefing does work OK as long as the sail
runs on a track so the lacing doesn't interfere with the snotter
tackle. You of course need a topping lift, real halyard, reefing
lines, etc, buut it seems like it ought to work, and tying up the
bunt should be not much more difficult that a "normal" rig. Mind, I
haven't tried it yet. I agree, easy reefing is really important,
although even without it I always had fun with my Gypsy sailing on
lake Harriet on gusty days watching the MCs fall over.
I agree wholeheartedly with Bill and Pete, that reefing is very important.
However it's horses for courses to some extent. I didn't like the idea of
the sprit boom until I saw what James Wharram was doing with his Tiki class
cats, which carry boomless gaff wing sails(sail wraps round mast). He has
worked out some practical ways of handling the clew (admitidly from the very
stable platform of a cat) that I think can be applied to sprit booms as
well.
The very important thing to note, is that Wharram boats, in common with the
example I quoted previously, are passagemakers, where its maybe okay to drop
the rig to the deck to reef. I don't want to be doing that on a daysailor,
especially if the gear is big and heavy.
What I'm looking for in a passagemaking rig are ways of getting lots of
simple downwind sail set with minimum chafe-making potential and easily
balanced.
Any further thoughts?
Foster
However it's horses for courses to some extent. I didn't like the idea of
the sprit boom until I saw what James Wharram was doing with his Tiki class
cats, which carry boomless gaff wing sails(sail wraps round mast). He has
worked out some practical ways of handling the clew (admitidly from the very
stable platform of a cat) that I think can be applied to sprit booms as
well.
The very important thing to note, is that Wharram boats, in common with the
example I quoted previously, are passagemakers, where its maybe okay to drop
the rig to the deck to reef. I don't want to be doing that on a daysailor,
especially if the gear is big and heavy.
What I'm looking for in a passagemaking rig are ways of getting lots of
simple downwind sail set with minimum chafe-making potential and easily
balanced.
Any further thoughts?
Foster
>pmcrannell@...writes:
>
> << Foster,
>
> I'm with Peter on the reefing issue. In your area, I would think
> reefing is VERY important. >>
>
> For what my 2 cents are worth, I think that an efficient
> reefing system is
> the sine qua non of a good rig if you are serious about
> sailing. The best rig
> I've used was what I think is pretty ordinary "jiffy" or
> "slab" reefing
> system on a masthead sloop. (the boat was exceptional for a
> chartered boat in
> having both a good reefing system for the main and compass that was
> reasonably accurate.) There is nothing like the ability to
> quickly shorten
> sail when it breezes up (after it starts breezing up and you
> finally realize
> that your boat is over-powered, really) to make sailing a
> pleasant challenge
> instead of an exciting opportunity to die. For all the
> evident virtues of
> sprits, as persuasively pointed out by Bolger, the absence of any
> demonstration of a reliable and effective reefing system
> seems to rule it out
> as a serious rig for any sailboat I would want to have. This
> includes "day
> sailors". I've sailed any number of inland scows which have
> no provision for
> reefing, but almost every trick in the rigging book - bendy
> masts, bendy
> booms, mid-ship travellers, leech lines, cunninghams, and I
> don't know what
> all else, to enable them to spread full sail and stay upright
> in a blow (with
> athletic assistance of the live ballast on board). For a
> person who just
> wants to sail from point A to point B in some security and
> style, this is a
> poor substitute for easily reefable gear.
>
> Obstinately,
> Bill in MN
>
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>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
In a message dated 10/12/00 11:31:31 AM Central Daylight Time,
pmcrannell@...writes:
<< Foster,
I'm with Peter on the reefing issue. In your area, I would think
reefing is VERY important. >>
For what my 2 cents are worth, I think that an efficient reefing system is
the sine qua non of a good rig if you are serious about sailing. The best rig
I've used was what I think is pretty ordinary "jiffy" or "slab" reefing
system on a masthead sloop. (the boat was exceptional for a chartered boat in
having both a good reefing system for the main and compass that was
reasonably accurate.) There is nothing like the ability to quickly shorten
sail when it breezes up (after it starts breezing up and you finally realize
that your boat is over-powered, really) to make sailing a pleasant challenge
instead of an exciting opportunity to die. For all the evident virtues of
sprits, as persuasively pointed out by Bolger, the absence of any
demonstration of a reliable and effective reefing system seems to rule it out
as a serious rig for any sailboat I would want to have. This includes "day
sailors". I've sailed any number of inland scows which have no provision for
reefing, but almost every trick in the rigging book - bendy masts, bendy
booms, mid-ship travellers, leech lines, cunninghams, and I don't know what
all else, to enable them to spread full sail and stay upright in a blow (with
athletic assistance of the live ballast on board). For a person who just
wants to sail from point A to point B in some security and style, this is a
poor substitute for easily reefable gear.
Obstinately,
Bill in MN
pmcrannell@...writes:
<< Foster,
I'm with Peter on the reefing issue. In your area, I would think
reefing is VERY important. >>
For what my 2 cents are worth, I think that an efficient reefing system is
the sine qua non of a good rig if you are serious about sailing. The best rig
I've used was what I think is pretty ordinary "jiffy" or "slab" reefing
system on a masthead sloop. (the boat was exceptional for a chartered boat in
having both a good reefing system for the main and compass that was
reasonably accurate.) There is nothing like the ability to quickly shorten
sail when it breezes up (after it starts breezing up and you finally realize
that your boat is over-powered, really) to make sailing a pleasant challenge
instead of an exciting opportunity to die. For all the evident virtues of
sprits, as persuasively pointed out by Bolger, the absence of any
demonstration of a reliable and effective reefing system seems to rule it out
as a serious rig for any sailboat I would want to have. This includes "day
sailors". I've sailed any number of inland scows which have no provision for
reefing, but almost every trick in the rigging book - bendy masts, bendy
booms, mid-ship travellers, leech lines, cunninghams, and I don't know what
all else, to enable them to spread full sail and stay upright in a blow (with
athletic assistance of the live ballast on board). For a person who just
wants to sail from point A to point B in some security and style, this is a
poor substitute for easily reefable gear.
Obstinately,
Bill in MN
Foster,
I'm with Peter on the reefing issue. In your area, I would think
reefing is VERY important.
Depending on the size of the boat you're planning, I'd go with a
gaff rig with a boom on the foot, if the boat is of any size at all.
A sprit boom would be fine in a daysailor, or in sheltered areas, but
I have serious misgivings if you're sailing in a lot of wind or going
to sea.
I'd rig the sprit to run out forward of the mast when reefed. It
would lessen the chance of tripping it if you were slammed by a gust.
This, however, presents problems if you'll be flying a jib while
reefed, or there's another mast forward.
A boom keeps everything attached to the boat. Reefing is a simple
exercise with a good, stout topping lift. I like the lift to dead end
at the mast end, running through to the end of the boom, then forward
to a cleat at the forward end of the boom. A light tackle can be put
in above the boom end if the boom is heavy. Simply tension the lift,
ease the sheet, lower the halyards to get the new tack down, haul
them TIGHT again. Then pull the clew down hard. It's best to have the
reef block aft of the sail's reef ring, so that you get a lot of
tension along the new foot. It should be 3-4" aft.
If you have trouble getting enough tension, you can rig a winch,
if the boat's big, or rig a tackle to the reef line. A three-part
tackle would be cheap to rig.
You'll need a boom vang if you go with a boom. Vangs will pull all
the twist out of the sail, upwind or down. Racing boats use a
technique called "vang sheeting" when going upwind. You yank the hell
out of the vang (using the mainsheet to help, if needed). It takes
care of the twist, while the sheet is used to adjust the athwartships
trim. Very effective, and fast.
In my opinion, Bolger goes overboard regarding the cost of blocks.
Yes, they can be pricey, especially if you have a big boat. But there
are plenty of alternate places to get them besides marine jewelry
stores. Swap meets, used boat shows, snoop around for perished rigs
at boatyards or dinghy clubs, etc. Learn some proper knots, and you
can dispense with cam cleats by tying a knot around the parts or
through one of the shackles.
Take care,
Pete Reynolds
I'm with Peter on the reefing issue. In your area, I would think
reefing is VERY important.
Depending on the size of the boat you're planning, I'd go with a
gaff rig with a boom on the foot, if the boat is of any size at all.
A sprit boom would be fine in a daysailor, or in sheltered areas, but
I have serious misgivings if you're sailing in a lot of wind or going
to sea.
I'd rig the sprit to run out forward of the mast when reefed. It
would lessen the chance of tripping it if you were slammed by a gust.
This, however, presents problems if you'll be flying a jib while
reefed, or there's another mast forward.
A boom keeps everything attached to the boat. Reefing is a simple
exercise with a good, stout topping lift. I like the lift to dead end
at the mast end, running through to the end of the boom, then forward
to a cleat at the forward end of the boom. A light tackle can be put
in above the boom end if the boom is heavy. Simply tension the lift,
ease the sheet, lower the halyards to get the new tack down, haul
them TIGHT again. Then pull the clew down hard. It's best to have the
reef block aft of the sail's reef ring, so that you get a lot of
tension along the new foot. It should be 3-4" aft.
If you have trouble getting enough tension, you can rig a winch,
if the boat's big, or rig a tackle to the reef line. A three-part
tackle would be cheap to rig.
You'll need a boom vang if you go with a boom. Vangs will pull all
the twist out of the sail, upwind or down. Racing boats use a
technique called "vang sheeting" when going upwind. You yank the hell
out of the vang (using the mainsheet to help, if needed). It takes
care of the twist, while the sheet is used to adjust the athwartships
trim. Very effective, and fast.
In my opinion, Bolger goes overboard regarding the cost of blocks.
Yes, they can be pricey, especially if you have a big boat. But there
are plenty of alternate places to get them besides marine jewelry
stores. Swap meets, used boat shows, snoop around for perished rigs
at boatyards or dinghy clubs, etc. Learn some proper knots, and you
can dispense with cam cleats by tying a knot around the parts or
through one of the shackles.
Take care,
Pete Reynolds
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, Foster Price <foster.price@s...> wrote:
> Hello Guys
>
> I don't have a copy of PCB's "103 Rigs" so would appreciate some
thoughts on
> both your experiences and what PCB says in relation to how these
work out.
>
> I would like to know how effective the self-vanging effect is with a
> sprit-boomed gaff main, I understand the geometry of them with a
bermudian
> sail but can't just visulise the full effect with a gaff sail.
>
> Also what are the pros and cons of each system of rigging the boom:
> 1) sprit-boom projecting in front of the mast as the sail is
reduced; or
> 2) the Munroe(?) system where the clew of the sail is advanced up
the sprit
> as in a conventional boom.
>
> Should the gaff be closer to the horizontal or vertical for best
effect with
> a sprit boom.
>
> I am particulary intersted in how it has worked out on bigger boats
such as
> "Africa" or similar.
>
> Thanks for your thoughts
>
> Foster Price
> Southland, New Zealand
> Is "Africa" really lying in St Croix? She always looked very smalland
> "dainty" to really take offshore.Oh, I have no idea where the original Africa is. For your $1,000,000,
you get a brand new boat.
I may take another look at the design tonight. I suspect it doesn't
have enough stowage for stores and supplies for a really long trip.
But as far as strength, stability, etc. I think she's pretty safe.
You would probably want to do something to reduce the helmsman's
exposure to the elements.
And the whole point of the discussion was the suitability of the rig,
so I consider that an unknown.
PHV
Hmmmm I see what you mean
mine circumnavigated in a modified Herreschoff 38' (the one from Sensible
Cruising Designs) that was rigged with a jib headed sprit boomed mainsail.
Yes they did have get the sail down on deck to reef, but on the ocean
passages/cruising they were doing it didn't matter.
"dainty" to really take offshore.
Foster Price
PS The "J Hanna" ketch has attracted some considerable interest here!
> -----Original Message-----This depends a bit on what sort of sailing one is doing. An aquaintance of
> From: Peter Vanderwaart [mailto:pvanderw@...]
>
> I would also be concerned about reefing. I find it difficult enough
> to get a good reef using modern jiffy reefing gear. I think you might
> be have to drop the sail to get a good reef in a sizeable sprit-boom
> boat. I wouldn't really want my crew leaning over the lee side to
> try to tie the bunt of the sail into neat reefing points.
mine circumnavigated in a modified Herreschoff 38' (the one from Sensible
Cruising Designs) that was rigged with a jib headed sprit boomed mainsail.
Yes they did have get the sail down on deck to reef, but on the ocean
passages/cruising they were doing it didn't matter.
> I would be very happy to do some reasearch into this. AnyoneIs "Africa" really lying in St Croix? She always looked very small and
> interesting in supporting it, send $1,000,000 US. In return, you
> will get a complete report (postmarked St. Croix) and the test
> vessel, e.g. Africa (lying St. Croix)
"dainty" to really take offshore.
Foster Price
PS The "J Hanna" ketch has attracted some considerable interest here!
> I would like to know how effective the self-vanging effect is with abermudian
> sprit-boomed gaff main, I understand the geometry of them with a
> sail but can't just visulise the full effect with a gaff sail.Few of the photographs in Bolger books of boats with either gaff or
peak sprit combined with sprit boom show the kind of sail shape that
I would want. For example, there are pictures in the chapter about
the 3 piece schooner. Whether you could do better with snotters run
to n-part tackles and/or deck winches, I don't know.
I would also be concerned about reefing. I find it difficult enough
to get a good reef using modern jiffy reefing gear. I think you might
be have to drop the sail to get a good reef in a sizeable sprit-boom
boat. I wouldn't really want my crew leaning over the lee side to
try to tie the bunt of the sail into neat reefing points.
I would be very happy to do some reasearch into this. Anyone
interesting in supporting it, send $1,000,000 US. In return, you
will get a complete report (postmarked St. Croix) and the test
vessel, e.g. Africa (lying St. Croix).
Peter
Take a look at this site
http://www.wserjeant.fsnet.co.uk
It shows some of John Welsford's designs -- he favours a standing lug, but
uses the sprit boom with it. The sails look like they set very well with
this arrangement, so I would expect the sprit boom to work well with gaff
sails as well.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: Foster Price [mailto:foster.price@...]
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 4:00 PM
To: 'bolger@egroups.com'
Subject: [bolger] Sprit Boomed Gaff Sails
Hello Guys
I don't have a copy of PCB's "103 Rigs" so would appreciate some thoughts on
both your experiences and what PCB says in relation to how these work out.
I would like to know how effective the self-vanging effect is with a
sprit-boomed gaff main, I understand the geometry of them with a bermudian
sail but can't just visulise the full effect with a gaff sail.
Also what are the pros and cons of each system of rigging the boom:
1) sprit-boom projecting in front of the mast as the sail is reduced; or
2) the Munroe(?) system where the clew of the sail is advanced up the sprit
as in a conventional boom.
Should the gaff be closer to the horizontal or vertical for best effect with
a sprit boom.
I am particulary intersted in how it has worked out on bigger boats such as
"Africa" or similar.
Thanks for your thoughts
Foster Price
Southland, New Zealand
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing
- stay on topic
- use punctuation
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
http://www.wserjeant.fsnet.co.uk
It shows some of John Welsford's designs -- he favours a standing lug, but
uses the sprit boom with it. The sails look like they set very well with
this arrangement, so I would expect the sprit boom to work well with gaff
sails as well.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: Foster Price [mailto:foster.price@...]
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 4:00 PM
To: 'bolger@egroups.com'
Subject: [bolger] Sprit Boomed Gaff Sails
Hello Guys
I don't have a copy of PCB's "103 Rigs" so would appreciate some thoughts on
both your experiences and what PCB says in relation to how these work out.
I would like to know how effective the self-vanging effect is with a
sprit-boomed gaff main, I understand the geometry of them with a bermudian
sail but can't just visulise the full effect with a gaff sail.
Also what are the pros and cons of each system of rigging the boom:
1) sprit-boom projecting in front of the mast as the sail is reduced; or
2) the Munroe(?) system where the clew of the sail is advanced up the sprit
as in a conventional boom.
Should the gaff be closer to the horizontal or vertical for best effect with
a sprit boom.
I am particulary intersted in how it has worked out on bigger boats such as
"Africa" or similar.
Thanks for your thoughts
Foster Price
Southland, New Zealand
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Hello Guys
I don't have a copy of PCB's "103 Rigs" so would appreciate some thoughts on
both your experiences and what PCB says in relation to how these work out.
I would like to know how effective the self-vanging effect is with a
sprit-boomed gaff main, I understand the geometry of them with a bermudian
sail but can't just visulise the full effect with a gaff sail.
Also what are the pros and cons of each system of rigging the boom:
1) sprit-boom projecting in front of the mast as the sail is reduced; or
2) the Munroe(?) system where the clew of the sail is advanced up the sprit
as in a conventional boom.
Should the gaff be closer to the horizontal or vertical for best effect with
a sprit boom.
I am particulary intersted in how it has worked out on bigger boats such as
"Africa" or similar.
Thanks for your thoughts
Foster Price
Southland, New Zealand
I don't have a copy of PCB's "103 Rigs" so would appreciate some thoughts on
both your experiences and what PCB says in relation to how these work out.
I would like to know how effective the self-vanging effect is with a
sprit-boomed gaff main, I understand the geometry of them with a bermudian
sail but can't just visulise the full effect with a gaff sail.
Also what are the pros and cons of each system of rigging the boom:
1) sprit-boom projecting in front of the mast as the sail is reduced; or
2) the Munroe(?) system where the clew of the sail is advanced up the sprit
as in a conventional boom.
Should the gaff be closer to the horizontal or vertical for best effect with
a sprit boom.
I am particulary intersted in how it has worked out on bigger boats such as
"Africa" or similar.
Thanks for your thoughts
Foster Price
Southland, New Zealand