Re: [bolger] Re: Auxillary Power for Fldg Schnr
I'll save him the trouble:
http://barkleysoundoar.com/
I've got a pair of Barkley Sound oars and can confirm that they're a good
value.
http://barkleysoundoar.com/
I've got a pair of Barkley Sound oars and can confirm that they're a good
value.
On Mon, 9 Oct 2000 20:50:38 -0400, John Bell wrote:
> For nice oars, inexpensively, give check out Barkley Sound Oar and Paddle.
> Their laminated Sitka spruce oars are quite good value. My 7.5'ers were
> something like US$65/pr plus about $15 shipping.
>
> They are on the web, but the address escapes me at the moment. Try
> http//:www.boat-links.com
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
Believe me my young friend, there is nothing--absolutely nothing--
half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.
<Water Rat>
Leander,
Here's how I make my oars.
I take a 2 x 4 and cut it to the oar length, say 8'. I rip the 2 x
to 2 1/2" x 1 1/2". I then measure in, from one end, a little more
than 1/2 the boats beam, and put a mark. I then measure in, from the
other end, The length of the blade, say, 2'. At this mark, I measure
in 1 1/2" (this is the fore and aft width of the loom, the 1 1/2"
face of the 2 x is vertical). I then draw a line between thes points,
and cut along it on a tablesaw (any saw will work). I stop at the
mark if it looks like the taper will run off at less than the 8'
length. I adjust to leave some wood to back up the plywood blade.
I then cut a mortise extending from the 2' mark out to the end of
the loom. Its depth is the thickness of the plywood used for the
blade - I use 1/4" ply. I measure in 6" from the handle end, and run
it through a table saw set to leave 1" solid wood in the center
(it'll be different depths depending on the size you rip the 2 x to).
I then chisel a nice round 1" diameter straight handle.
I like lond narrow blades on my oars, so I make a 2' x 5"
rectangle out of plywood. I put a nice shallow, low roof pitch on the
outboard end (a friend asked me to do a rounded arch when I made him
a pair, and I've seen crescent shapes, too). I taper towards the loom
end, say 1/2-3/4", ending it 6-8" from the end. I then taper down to
the 1 1/2" width of the loom. Then I glue the blade into the mortise
(I use Weldwood).
Once everything is in one piece, I balance the oar in the lock. I
tape fishing weights to the handle until it balances, then take some
off to make the oar a little blade heavy. I cut a piece of 1/2" steel
rod, making it the same weight as the sinkers. I drill a 1/2" hole
lengthwise through the handle, equal to the length of the rod. Then I
coat the rod with a little glue, and drive it down the hole.
After this, I radius all the corners, and plane the blade edges
down to a blunt point. Paint or varnish them to taste, but leave the
handles unfinished. Otherwise, you'll get blisters for sure!
Now you have a nice, counter-weighted oar, with a nice shape. You
don't have to buy an expensive oar that is better used as a cement
stirrer (Shaw & Taney oars not inclded!) It doesn't cost much. An 8'
2x4 costs about 1.25-1.75 or so, in my area. It's also light, and
feels lighter because it's properly balanced. Now you can afford to
have the proper oars for each boat. I've broken a few over the years,
usually because I abused them poling the boat with them, sculling too
hard, or some other mishap. I don't worry too much because I can just
make another one in an afternoon, and the glue's dried by the next
morning!
I'll draw up a plan, and post it in the Files.
Take care,
Pete Reynolds
Here's how I make my oars.
I take a 2 x 4 and cut it to the oar length, say 8'. I rip the 2 x
to 2 1/2" x 1 1/2". I then measure in, from one end, a little more
than 1/2 the boats beam, and put a mark. I then measure in, from the
other end, The length of the blade, say, 2'. At this mark, I measure
in 1 1/2" (this is the fore and aft width of the loom, the 1 1/2"
face of the 2 x is vertical). I then draw a line between thes points,
and cut along it on a tablesaw (any saw will work). I stop at the
mark if it looks like the taper will run off at less than the 8'
length. I adjust to leave some wood to back up the plywood blade.
I then cut a mortise extending from the 2' mark out to the end of
the loom. Its depth is the thickness of the plywood used for the
blade - I use 1/4" ply. I measure in 6" from the handle end, and run
it through a table saw set to leave 1" solid wood in the center
(it'll be different depths depending on the size you rip the 2 x to).
I then chisel a nice round 1" diameter straight handle.
I like lond narrow blades on my oars, so I make a 2' x 5"
rectangle out of plywood. I put a nice shallow, low roof pitch on the
outboard end (a friend asked me to do a rounded arch when I made him
a pair, and I've seen crescent shapes, too). I taper towards the loom
end, say 1/2-3/4", ending it 6-8" from the end. I then taper down to
the 1 1/2" width of the loom. Then I glue the blade into the mortise
(I use Weldwood).
Once everything is in one piece, I balance the oar in the lock. I
tape fishing weights to the handle until it balances, then take some
off to make the oar a little blade heavy. I cut a piece of 1/2" steel
rod, making it the same weight as the sinkers. I drill a 1/2" hole
lengthwise through the handle, equal to the length of the rod. Then I
coat the rod with a little glue, and drive it down the hole.
After this, I radius all the corners, and plane the blade edges
down to a blunt point. Paint or varnish them to taste, but leave the
handles unfinished. Otherwise, you'll get blisters for sure!
Now you have a nice, counter-weighted oar, with a nice shape. You
don't have to buy an expensive oar that is better used as a cement
stirrer (Shaw & Taney oars not inclded!) It doesn't cost much. An 8'
2x4 costs about 1.25-1.75 or so, in my area. It's also light, and
feels lighter because it's properly balanced. Now you can afford to
have the proper oars for each boat. I've broken a few over the years,
usually because I abused them poling the boat with them, sculling too
hard, or some other mishap. I don't worry too much because I can just
make another one in an afternoon, and the glue's dried by the next
morning!
I'll draw up a plan, and post it in the Files.
Take care,
Pete Reynolds
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, Hardings <harding2@h...> wrote:
> Still haven't got the Folding Schooner's bottom wet. I am waiting
for the
> right combination of day off, Indain summer, low tide and my son's
band to
> take a break so I can impress them all into the Schooner Service. I
have been
> bidding unsucessfully on used electric trolling motor's on ebay. I
think 40
> lb of thrust or so would get us away from the dock and into water
we could
> sail in. I still have a 2.7 H.P. Cruse and Caryy that came with the
Sea Pearl
> we had. The longer I had the boat the less I used it. It had a
nasty habit of
> shaking itself apart and skipping nuts and bolts across the wake.
The kind of
> sailing I mostly do, a few hours day sail works very well in most
> circustances with oars for backup. The biggest problem I have is
usally
> getting away from the dock against a headwind. I got to the point
where it
> was quicker to row out a little way than to mess with the motor. I
got
> becalmed once and it took about two hours to row home. Still more
pleasant
> than listening to an air cooled motor with a suicidal personality.
>
> I have installed two sets of rowlocks in the Folding Schooner. One
set is in
> the aft hull just forward of the side panel butt straps. I used
the edge of
> the strap to register a symetrical location for the kind of sockets
that
> screw into the side of the gunwale. This location also backs up the
strap
> for the socket with the lip of the butt joint. In the front hull
the locks
> are about 16" forward of the bridge deck. These placements are
completely
> arbitrary and I would love to hear any rules of thumb for the
placement of
> rowlocks? I am also thinking about installing risers for knock
down thwarts
> and wondering about placement for them fore and aft and in relation
to the
> gunwale?
>
> I have a nice pair of Shaw and Tenney 7ft oars and had been hoping
they would
> work. Perusing the Sea Explorer's Handbook I found a rule of thumb
for the
> length of oars. For single banked rowing, one oarsmen per two oars,
the Boy
> Scouts think that an oar should be twice the length of the thwart
plus the
> freeboard. This makes for 9 or 9 1/2 ft oars. This is not
something you can
> get at the local West Marine. Their 7ft oars are almost $50 a piece
in these
> parts. I need to make up two pairs of oars. I know Jim MIchlak
laminates
> material. Anybody have any experience making oars? What reasonably
> accessable material would you suggest for laminating the blanks?
>
> I unfolded the boat on the trailer today when my son's band was on
break and
> found out why Bolger suggests folding and unfolding on the beach.
The added
> height of the trailer makes it much harder to get a good purchase.
With four
> strapping teenagers it was unfolded and folded sucessfully but it
is an
> exciting process and you want to make sure the boat is well secured
to the
> trailer and the trailer to the vehicle. It does make it possible to
get to a
> locking device on the keelsons as Payson suggested.
>
> Leander
Leander,
I have made several pairs of oars, and they are very inexpensive to make
(can be lots of labor though). The quickest way is to laminate the blades
from doorskin ply with epoxy and 6 oz fiberglass - you can precurve the
blades by leaving a small tab on each end and pulling the curve in with a
wire, then trim off the tabs after the resin cures. I usually make several
pairs of blades, then fabricate the oars as needed. I have settled on 22
inch x 5 inch blades, tapering from the 17-inch point to the shaft size, 1
1/2 inches (saying it another way, the blades are 17 x 5 plus a 5 inch
tapered section narrowing from 5 inches to 1 1/2). Radius the corners using
a coin as a template. Rip the shafts from spruce 2x4's, 1 1/2 square, then
8-side them with a circular or table saw, or just radius the four corners.
Split the shaft to 10 inches depth and epoxy or PL Premium the prefab blades
into the saw kerf. You can round the grips and leathers areas to taste,
although I usually only round the grips.
Alternatively, you can just saw and plane them out of 2x6 spruce, by drawing
the profiles and sections on the boards and working down to them. This
makes a prettier oar (and LOTS of planing chips unless you have a bandsaw to
take the bulk of the stock off the blade faces).
I paint them white, but the carved oars can be finished clear as well. Most
spruce has knots, so look for the small tight ones. The knots are another
(cosmetic) reason to paint. I have never broken a spruce oar, but have seen
some composite blades delaminate from pushing on the bottom (these were
polyester laminates, not epoxy - no problems with epoxy).
These oars should come in less than $10 a pair for materials, a bit more if
carved, assuming you have some epoxy and glass scraps.
Don Hodges
I have made several pairs of oars, and they are very inexpensive to make
(can be lots of labor though). The quickest way is to laminate the blades
from doorskin ply with epoxy and 6 oz fiberglass - you can precurve the
blades by leaving a small tab on each end and pulling the curve in with a
wire, then trim off the tabs after the resin cures. I usually make several
pairs of blades, then fabricate the oars as needed. I have settled on 22
inch x 5 inch blades, tapering from the 17-inch point to the shaft size, 1
1/2 inches (saying it another way, the blades are 17 x 5 plus a 5 inch
tapered section narrowing from 5 inches to 1 1/2). Radius the corners using
a coin as a template. Rip the shafts from spruce 2x4's, 1 1/2 square, then
8-side them with a circular or table saw, or just radius the four corners.
Split the shaft to 10 inches depth and epoxy or PL Premium the prefab blades
into the saw kerf. You can round the grips and leathers areas to taste,
although I usually only round the grips.
Alternatively, you can just saw and plane them out of 2x6 spruce, by drawing
the profiles and sections on the boards and working down to them. This
makes a prettier oar (and LOTS of planing chips unless you have a bandsaw to
take the bulk of the stock off the blade faces).
I paint them white, but the carved oars can be finished clear as well. Most
spruce has knots, so look for the small tight ones. The knots are another
(cosmetic) reason to paint. I have never broken a spruce oar, but have seen
some composite blades delaminate from pushing on the bottom (these were
polyester laminates, not epoxy - no problems with epoxy).
These oars should come in less than $10 a pair for materials, a bit more if
carved, assuming you have some epoxy and glass scraps.
Don Hodges
For nice oars, inexpensively, give check out Barkley Sound Oar and Paddle.
Their laminated Sitka spruce oars are quite good value. My 7.5'ers were
something like US$65/pr plus about $15 shipping.
They are on the web, but the address escapes me at the moment. Try
http//:www.boat-links.com
Best,
JB
Their laminated Sitka spruce oars are quite good value. My 7.5'ers were
something like US$65/pr plus about $15 shipping.
They are on the web, but the address escapes me at the moment. Try
http//:www.boat-links.com
Best,
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: Hardings <harding2@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 8:32 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Auxillary Power for Fldg Schnr
| Still haven't got the Folding Schooner's bottom wet. I am waiting for the
| right combination of day off, Indain summer, low tide and my son's band to
| take a break so I can impress them all into the Schooner Service. I have
been
| bidding unsucessfully on used electric trolling motor's on ebay. I think
40
| lb of thrust or so would get us away from the dock and into water we could
| sail in. I still have a 2.7 H.P. Cruse and Caryy that came with the Sea
Pearl
| we had. The longer I had the boat the less I used it. It had a nasty habit
of
| shaking itself apart and skipping nuts and bolts across the wake. The kind
of
| sailing I mostly do, a few hours day sail works very well in most
| circustances with oars for backup. The biggest problem I have is usally
| getting away from the dock against a headwind. I got to the point where
it
| was quicker to row out a little way than to mess with the motor. I got
| becalmed once and it took about two hours to row home. Still more pleasant
| than listening to an air cooled motor with a suicidal personality.
|
| I have installed two sets of rowlocks in the Folding Schooner. One set is
in
| the aft hull just forward of the side panel butt straps. I used the edge
of
| the strap to register a symetrical location for the kind of sockets that
| screw into the side of the gunwale. This location also backs up the strap
| for the socket with the lip of the butt joint. In the front hull the
locks
| are about 16" forward of the bridge deck. These placements are completely
| arbitrary and I would love to hear any rules of thumb for the placement of
| rowlocks? I am also thinking about installing risers for knock down
thwarts
| and wondering about placement for them fore and aft and in relation to the
| gunwale?
|
| I have a nice pair of Shaw and Tenney 7ft oars and had been hoping they
would
| work. Perusing the Sea Explorer's Handbook I found a rule of thumb for the
| length of oars. For single banked rowing, one oarsmen per two oars, the
Boy
| Scouts think that an oar should be twice the length of the thwart plus the
| freeboard. This makes for 9 or 9 1/2 ft oars. This is not something you
can
| get at the local West Marine. Their 7ft oars are almost $50 a piece in
these
| parts. I need to make up two pairs of oars. I know Jim MIchlak laminates
| material. Anybody have any experience making oars? What reasonably
| accessable material would you suggest for laminating the blanks?
|
| I unfolded the boat on the trailer today when my son's band was on break
and
| found out why Bolger suggests folding and unfolding on the beach. The
added
| height of the trailer makes it much harder to get a good purchase. With
four
| strapping teenagers it was unfolded and folded sucessfully but it is an
| exciting process and you want to make sure the boat is well secured to the
| trailer and the trailer to the vehicle. It does make it possible to get to
a
| locking device on the keelsons as Payson suggested.
|
| Leander
|
|
|
| Bolger rules!!!
| - no cursing
| - stay on topic
| - use punctuation
| - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
| - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
|
Still haven't got the Folding Schooner's bottom wet. I am waiting for the
right combination of day off, Indain summer, low tide and my son's band to
take a break so I can impress them all into the Schooner Service. I have been
bidding unsucessfully on used electric trolling motor's on ebay. I think 40
lb of thrust or so would get us away from the dock and into water we could
sail in. I still have a 2.7 H.P. Cruse and Caryy that came with the Sea Pearl
we had. The longer I had the boat the less I used it. It had a nasty habit of
shaking itself apart and skipping nuts and bolts across the wake. The kind of
sailing I mostly do, a few hours day sail works very well in most
circustances with oars for backup. The biggest problem I have is usally
getting away from the dock against a headwind. I got to the point where it
was quicker to row out a little way than to mess with the motor. I got
becalmed once and it took about two hours to row home. Still more pleasant
than listening to an air cooled motor with a suicidal personality.
I have installed two sets of rowlocks in the Folding Schooner. One set is in
the aft hull just forward of the side panel butt straps. I used the edge of
the strap to register a symetrical location for the kind of sockets that
screw into the side of the gunwale. This location also backs up the strap
for the socket with the lip of the butt joint. In the front hull the locks
are about 16" forward of the bridge deck. These placements are completely
arbitrary and I would love to hear any rules of thumb for the placement of
rowlocks? I am also thinking about installing risers for knock down thwarts
and wondering about placement for them fore and aft and in relation to the
gunwale?
I have a nice pair of Shaw and Tenney 7ft oars and had been hoping they would
work. Perusing the Sea Explorer's Handbook I found a rule of thumb for the
length of oars. For single banked rowing, one oarsmen per two oars, the Boy
Scouts think that an oar should be twice the length of the thwart plus the
freeboard. This makes for 9 or 9 1/2 ft oars. This is not something you can
get at the local West Marine. Their 7ft oars are almost $50 a piece in these
parts. I need to make up two pairs of oars. I know Jim MIchlak laminates
material. Anybody have any experience making oars? What reasonably
accessable material would you suggest for laminating the blanks?
I unfolded the boat on the trailer today when my son's band was on break and
found out why Bolger suggests folding and unfolding on the beach. The added
height of the trailer makes it much harder to get a good purchase. With four
strapping teenagers it was unfolded and folded sucessfully but it is an
exciting process and you want to make sure the boat is well secured to the
trailer and the trailer to the vehicle. It does make it possible to get to a
locking device on the keelsons as Payson suggested.
Leander
right combination of day off, Indain summer, low tide and my son's band to
take a break so I can impress them all into the Schooner Service. I have been
bidding unsucessfully on used electric trolling motor's on ebay. I think 40
lb of thrust or so would get us away from the dock and into water we could
sail in. I still have a 2.7 H.P. Cruse and Caryy that came with the Sea Pearl
we had. The longer I had the boat the less I used it. It had a nasty habit of
shaking itself apart and skipping nuts and bolts across the wake. The kind of
sailing I mostly do, a few hours day sail works very well in most
circustances with oars for backup. The biggest problem I have is usally
getting away from the dock against a headwind. I got to the point where it
was quicker to row out a little way than to mess with the motor. I got
becalmed once and it took about two hours to row home. Still more pleasant
than listening to an air cooled motor with a suicidal personality.
I have installed two sets of rowlocks in the Folding Schooner. One set is in
the aft hull just forward of the side panel butt straps. I used the edge of
the strap to register a symetrical location for the kind of sockets that
screw into the side of the gunwale. This location also backs up the strap
for the socket with the lip of the butt joint. In the front hull the locks
are about 16" forward of the bridge deck. These placements are completely
arbitrary and I would love to hear any rules of thumb for the placement of
rowlocks? I am also thinking about installing risers for knock down thwarts
and wondering about placement for them fore and aft and in relation to the
gunwale?
I have a nice pair of Shaw and Tenney 7ft oars and had been hoping they would
work. Perusing the Sea Explorer's Handbook I found a rule of thumb for the
length of oars. For single banked rowing, one oarsmen per two oars, the Boy
Scouts think that an oar should be twice the length of the thwart plus the
freeboard. This makes for 9 or 9 1/2 ft oars. This is not something you can
get at the local West Marine. Their 7ft oars are almost $50 a piece in these
parts. I need to make up two pairs of oars. I know Jim MIchlak laminates
material. Anybody have any experience making oars? What reasonably
accessable material would you suggest for laminating the blanks?
I unfolded the boat on the trailer today when my son's band was on break and
found out why Bolger suggests folding and unfolding on the beach. The added
height of the trailer makes it much harder to get a good purchase. With four
strapping teenagers it was unfolded and folded sucessfully but it is an
exciting process and you want to make sure the boat is well secured to the
trailer and the trailer to the vehicle. It does make it possible to get to a
locking device on the keelsons as Payson suggested.
Leander