RE: [bolger] Re: Tackling plywood lapstrake
Hi all
In John Gardner's Dory Book he goes into some detail about planking and how
to determine their shapes. Likewise, in Sam Rabl's Backyard Boatbuiling.
Some of the planks when lying flat on the ground look absolutely backwards
from how they are fastened on the hull.
Jim C.
In John Gardner's Dory Book he goes into some detail about planking and how
to determine their shapes. Likewise, in Sam Rabl's Backyard Boatbuiling.
Some of the planks when lying flat on the ground look absolutely backwards
from how they are fastened on the hull.
Jim C.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ann Romanczuk [mailto:kwilson800@...]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 8:00 AM
> To:bolger@egroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Tackling plywood lapstrake
>
>
> No, the planks are rather complex shapes. The girth of the hull
> varies at different points, so the strakes taper, and sometimes have
> very surprising curves. It's not at all obvious from a first look
> what shape they'll have. Iain Oughtred's book has a fairly coherent
> discussion of determining the plank shapes, as does Greg Rossel's
> book on small boat building. That's why I like Tom Hill's jig-with-
> ribbands method; all of that is done before you cut up that piece of
> expensive plywood. Oughtred, BTW, suggests making plank patterns,
> which don't become part of the boat either, so take your choice. You
> need to take a bit of care here, since the lines of the planks are
> very obvious and will make the boat look pretty bad if they're not
> right. Slightly fussy work, but not unpleasant, and the results sure
> are pretty.
>
> "There are no dumb questions."
>
> --- Inbolger@egroups.com, freedem@e... wrote:
> > Very dumb question I know but I origionally was under the
> impression
> > and am now think I am wrong that the planks are of uniform width
> > could
> > you please confirm or denie my suposition
> > thanks
> > Jeffery
> >
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
There's also a companion video to Tom Hill's book, available at the
WoodenBoat store, either for sale ($39.95) or rental ($12.95).
http://www2.mailordercentral.com/wbstore/
Dreaming of lapstrake,
Garth
WoodenBoat store, either for sale ($39.95) or rental ($12.95).
http://www2.mailordercentral.com/wbstore/
Dreaming of lapstrake,
Garth
A third option is to use battens-- and then leave them in the boat! Arch
Davis uses this method and his boats look real nice. I think the battens
would make keeping the boat clean more difficult though.
by-the-sea.com/archdavisdesign/
Davis uses this method and his boats look real nice. I think the battens
would make keeping the boat clean more difficult though.
by-the-sea.com/archdavisdesign/
On Tue, 17 Oct 2000 10:08:51 -0400, Peter Belenky wrote:
>
> Pure speculation regarding the question of whether to construct a full
> Hill-type jig with ribbands or the simpler Oughtred/Bolger idea of station
> molds alone: it should probably depend on planking thickness. Hill uses 4
> mm. ply, and the free edge of that might be a little too flexible for
> fitting and gluing the next plank without a ribband. Bolger uses 6 mm. on
> Fieldmouse. I don't know what Oughtred uses on his canoes.
>
> Peter Belenky
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
In this world of sin and sorrow there is always something to be thankful for;
as for me, I rejoice that I am not a Republican. <H. L. Mencken>
Matthew:
Three years ago I built an 18 1/2 foot canoe using the lines from an
E.M. White Guide canoe and Thomas Hill's method. I used the best
looking 1/4" luaun ply from Home Depot and epoxy (Raka) for glue.
The canoe is finished bright outside and porch paint inside. I used
luaun because this was mostly an experiment with a new method for me -
I planned to eventually use good wood for a more permanent boat.
The boat did come in a little heavy and is about all that I can
cartop alone. After three years of heavy use, the canoe still looks
good with no checking except for one strake where it twists more than
the others. I put 6 oz. cloth on the garboards and the first strake
only. I have no plans now to build the "permanent" boat - although I
still have the station molds.
The ribband method advocated by Hill was easier than I thought it
would be. It was also easy to adapt the E.M. White lines to the
lapstrake hull. It's almost fun to cut the bevels on the strakes
with a good, sharp, low-angle block plane. I would not want to race
against time when gluing the strakes in warm weather again. If I
were to do it again, I'd use the 3M 5200 in the mahogany color.
Start buying clamps now - you can never have too many.
regards,
Andy Farquhar
Three years ago I built an 18 1/2 foot canoe using the lines from an
E.M. White Guide canoe and Thomas Hill's method. I used the best
looking 1/4" luaun ply from Home Depot and epoxy (Raka) for glue.
The canoe is finished bright outside and porch paint inside. I used
luaun because this was mostly an experiment with a new method for me -
I planned to eventually use good wood for a more permanent boat.
The boat did come in a little heavy and is about all that I can
cartop alone. After three years of heavy use, the canoe still looks
good with no checking except for one strake where it twists more than
the others. I put 6 oz. cloth on the garboards and the first strake
only. I have no plans now to build the "permanent" boat - although I
still have the station molds.
The ribband method advocated by Hill was easier than I thought it
would be. It was also easy to adapt the E.M. White lines to the
lapstrake hull. It's almost fun to cut the bevels on the strakes
with a good, sharp, low-angle block plane. I would not want to race
against time when gluing the strakes in warm weather again. If I
were to do it again, I'd use the 3M 5200 in the mahogany color.
Start buying clamps now - you can never have too many.
regards,
Andy Farquhar
No, the planks are rather complex shapes. The girth of the hull
varies at different points, so the strakes taper, and sometimes have
very surprising curves. It's not at all obvious from a first look
what shape they'll have. Iain Oughtred's book has a fairly coherent
discussion of determining the plank shapes, as does Greg Rossel's
book on small boat building. That's why I like Tom Hill's jig-with-
ribbands method; all of that is done before you cut up that piece of
expensive plywood. Oughtred, BTW, suggests making plank patterns,
which don't become part of the boat either, so take your choice. You
need to take a bit of care here, since the lines of the planks are
very obvious and will make the boat look pretty bad if they're not
right. Slightly fussy work, but not unpleasant, and the results sure
are pretty.
"There are no dumb questions."
varies at different points, so the strakes taper, and sometimes have
very surprising curves. It's not at all obvious from a first look
what shape they'll have. Iain Oughtred's book has a fairly coherent
discussion of determining the plank shapes, as does Greg Rossel's
book on small boat building. That's why I like Tom Hill's jig-with-
ribbands method; all of that is done before you cut up that piece of
expensive plywood. Oughtred, BTW, suggests making plank patterns,
which don't become part of the boat either, so take your choice. You
need to take a bit of care here, since the lines of the planks are
very obvious and will make the boat look pretty bad if they're not
right. Slightly fussy work, but not unpleasant, and the results sure
are pretty.
"There are no dumb questions."
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, freedem@e... wrote:
> Very dumb question I know but I origionally was under the
impression
> and am now think I am wrong that the planks are of uniform width
> could
> you please confirm or denie my suposition
> thanks
> Jeffery
>
Pure speculation regarding the question of whether to construct a full
Hill-type jig with ribbands or the simpler Oughtred/Bolger idea of station
molds alone: it should probably depend on planking thickness. Hill uses 4
mm. ply, and the free edge of that might be a little too flexible for
fitting and gluing the next plank without a ribband. Bolger uses 6 mm. on
Fieldmouse. I don't know what Oughtred uses on his canoes.
Peter Belenky
Hill-type jig with ribbands or the simpler Oughtred/Bolger idea of station
molds alone: it should probably depend on planking thickness. Hill uses 4
mm. ply, and the free edge of that might be a little too flexible for
fitting and gluing the next plank without a ribband. Bolger uses 6 mm. on
Fieldmouse. I don't know what Oughtred uses on his canoes.
Peter Belenky
Very dumb question I know but I origionally was under the impression
and am now think I am wrong that the planks are of uniform width
could
you please confirm or denie my suposition
thanks
Jeffery
and am now think I am wrong that the planks are of uniform width
could
you please confirm or denie my suposition
thanks
Jeffery
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Ann Romanczuk" <kwilson800@a...> wrote:
> After three bolger boats (Gypsy, Teal, and Rubens Nymph) and three
> glued-lapstrake boats (well, OK, two were cradle boats, but the
> technique is the same), I really like plywood lapstrake. It's a
> little more work, I think, but the work is generally more pleasant.
> I'd rather work at getting plank shapes right than sanding
> fiberglass.
>
> I'd list the pros and cons of Plywood lapstrake as follows
> Pro:
> - Hull shape is not limited by sheet plywood, hence more complex
and,
> IMHO, prettier boats are possible
> - MUCH less glue mess than taped seam construction or
strip-planking.
> - MUCH less sanding than any construction that's sheathed with
> fiberglass, since the plywood is already smooth and fair
> - Less framing is needed, since the glued laps form a double-
> thickness stringer along each plank edge
> Con:
> - Requires more accurate fits between planks
> - Requires good quality plywood ACX fir probably won't cut
> it.
> - Requires an accurate building jig
> - Requires care laying out plank shapes to look good
> - More parts, generally
> - Probably takes longer, although when I consider all the time
spent
> getting the Gypsy's fiberglass sheathing smooth and fair, I'm
> not
> sure.
>
> Tom Hill's "Ultralight Boatbuilding" shows a method of
> construction
> that uses ribbands on the mold that define the shape of each plank
> before planking starts. Iain Oughtred doesn't think this is
> worth
> the trouble; I'm inclined to disagree.
>
> I think you could do better than the Fieldmouse pram. Iain
> Oughtred's designs are very nice. Bolger's Spur II looks
> fine, too,
> if you want a rowboat. You might also look at Joel White's
> designs:
> the Nutshell pram, and the Shellback and Pooduck skiffs. I'm
> currently working on a conversion of the Cartopper design to glued
> lapstrake, which I may build this winter, retaining the flat bottom
> and having rounded lapstrake topsides. Cartopper's a dory skiff,
> actually, so I guess I'm just going back to her roots.
>
>
> --- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Matthew, Agnès & Fletcher
> Peillet-Long"
> <matthew.long@l...> wrote:
> > In considering my next project (not that I'm completely finished
> with
> > the current one, mind you!) I am considering tackling the glued
> plywood
> > lapstrake technique.
> >
> > The conventional wisdom seems to be that this is a good technique
> for
> > an amateur taking on a non-instant boat project, along with
perhaps
> > glued strip building.
> >
> > Bolger's Fieldmouse pram would be about right, a good first
project
> for
> > a new technique. There are of course many others to choose from,
> > especially by Iain Oughtred. In other Bolger designs, I could
see
> > moving on to a Japanese Beach Cruiser, a lapstrake Chebacco, the
> lovely
> > St. Valerie, or adapting one of his straight plans-and-offsets
> designs,
> > even a power boat.
> >
> > I know that Oughtred has a new book out, and there is also Thomas
> > Hill's ULTRALIGHT BOATBUILDING.
> >
> > Can anyone offer comments on first-hand experience with this
> technique,
> > or the relative merits of either of these books?
> >
> > Thanks a lot!
> >
> > Matthew
> >
> > PS - "Polliwog," my Juin (June) Bug, is still awaiting repa
Matthew --
I built a lapstrake canoe using the Hill method (14' and by now I
love it although I had it too tippy with a too high seat in the
beginning). Before the canoe I had to build the jig -- this is major
construction that won't float and it is still in the barn--it may
turn to kindling this winter. I considered that a drawback.
The method of joining the strakes, as Hill describes, is right on the
target, though, with the winding bevels being "automatic" when you
use a low angle block plane with a short stick extension on the
side. That was nice work, the strakes went together beautifully --
no leaks. In lieu of the many C-clamps suggested by Hill, I cut out
bunches of C-forms from scrap plywood and used little wedges to
firmly nestle the lapstrakes together for epoxying.
If you have any questions on this method, please fire away.
Hoping that you are acclimating--no--acclimated!--to France. Of
course we deeply envy you but by far wish you the very best.
Cheers,
Dick Burnham
I built a lapstrake canoe using the Hill method (14' and by now I
love it although I had it too tippy with a too high seat in the
beginning). Before the canoe I had to build the jig -- this is major
construction that won't float and it is still in the barn--it may
turn to kindling this winter. I considered that a drawback.
The method of joining the strakes, as Hill describes, is right on the
target, though, with the winding bevels being "automatic" when you
use a low angle block plane with a short stick extension on the
side. That was nice work, the strakes went together beautifully --
no leaks. In lieu of the many C-clamps suggested by Hill, I cut out
bunches of C-forms from scrap plywood and used little wedges to
firmly nestle the lapstrakes together for epoxying.
If you have any questions on this method, please fire away.
Hoping that you are acclimating--no--acclimated!--to France. Of
course we deeply envy you but by far wish you the very best.
Cheers,
Dick Burnham
Matthew,
I had the pleasure of talking with John Gardner about the same subject - plywood
lapstrake building. I had purchased a set of plans for a 17' Swamscot Dory
and a couple of the strakes were going to be difficult to do with demensioned
wooe. He felt that any lapstrake designed hull could be done with plywood.
I will someday build that dory with ply.
Talked with a local professional builder, he suggested that the laps be glued
with (the rest of you guessed it) 3M 5200. It remains somewhat flexible after
curing and doesn't foam up and spread all over when it dries like PL1 Premium,
my other favorite glue. Having built a lapstrake dory as a class project at
the SF Maritime Museum, I can attest to the beauty and hassle of riveted laps.
I would do riveted laps for traditional style beauty, but I would still glue
'em. Okume marine ply, copper rivets, bright finish - WOW.
Sorry to ramble on like this, but the wooden lapstrake hull is, in my opinion,
the most beautiful hull on the water.
Sorry, I can't help you on the books. Keep in touch.
Jim Chamberlin
I had the pleasure of talking with John Gardner about the same subject - plywood
lapstrake building. I had purchased a set of plans for a 17' Swamscot Dory
and a couple of the strakes were going to be difficult to do with demensioned
wooe. He felt that any lapstrake designed hull could be done with plywood.
I will someday build that dory with ply.
Talked with a local professional builder, he suggested that the laps be glued
with (the rest of you guessed it) 3M 5200. It remains somewhat flexible after
curing and doesn't foam up and spread all over when it dries like PL1 Premium,
my other favorite glue. Having built a lapstrake dory as a class project at
the SF Maritime Museum, I can attest to the beauty and hassle of riveted laps.
I would do riveted laps for traditional style beauty, but I would still glue
'em. Okume marine ply, copper rivets, bright finish - WOW.
Sorry to ramble on like this, but the wooden lapstrake hull is, in my opinion,
the most beautiful hull on the water.
Sorry, I can't help you on the books. Keep in touch.
Jim Chamberlin
>In considering my next project (not that I'm completely finished with
>the current one, mind you!) I am considering tackling the glued plywood
>lapstrake technique.
>
>The conventional wisdom seems to be that this is a good technique for
>an amateur taking on a non-instant boat project, along with perhaps
>glued strip building.
>
>Bolger's Fieldmouse pram would be about right, a good first project for
>a new technique. There are of course many others to choose from,
>especially by Iain Oughtred. In other Bolger designs, I could see
>moving on to a Japanese Beach Cruiser, a lapstrake Chebacco, the lovely
>St. Valerie, or adapting one of his straight plans-and-offsets designs,
>even a power boat.
>
>I know that Oughtred has a new book out, and there is also Thomas
>Hill's ULTRALIGHT BOATBUILDING.
>
>Can anyone offer comments on first-hand experience with this technique,
>or the relative merits of either of these books?
>
>Thanks a lot!
>
>Matthew
>
>PS - "Polliwog," my Juin (June) Bug, is still awaiting repairs :(
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing
>- stay on topic
>- use punctuation
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
>- add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
>
> >Bolger's Fieldmouse pram would be about right,My feeling was that it is an ideal design for an experimental
> I, too, have admired the Fieldmouse design.
construction. The vertical ends are easy to set up, and the capacity
is great so the boat will be useable even if it turns out very heavy.
PHV
You might also consider John Welsford's book, New Zealand Backyard
Boatbuilding (or something very like that). He uses sheet plywood,
lapstrake, and some combinations. The second half of the book is all about
his designs, some nice ones, including small prams (for example, Tender
Behind).
My favourite is his 13 foot Rogue -- flat or dory type bottom with several
wide lapstrake planks -- a very shapely boat.
The book can be ordered through WoodenBoat, Watercraft, and Classic Boat
(soon, I believe). Some designs are at:http://www.wserjeant.fsnet.co.uk/
(but not Rogue).
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew, Agnès & Fletcher Peillet-Long
[mailto:matthew.long@...]
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 1:01 PM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Tackling plywood lapstrake
Thanks to all for the responses to my plywood lapstrake question. I've
pretty much decided to get his book and design catalog as a next step.
I have heard two references now to Hill's ribband technique--one pro,
one con. For now, I am inclined to try Oughtred's system as I have
developed a Bolgerish aversion to building anything that doesn't
actually become part of the boat if I can possibly avoid it. I'll let
you know.
I do have a couple of oversize sheets of 1/4" okoume exterior plywood
if I want to try something just to mess around.
many possibilities. I need something that will trail easily behind my
1.1 liter Peugeot 106 (that's right, there are motorcycles with bigger
engines!). I do want a trailer, because I find the hassle of
cartopping to distant waters is keeping me too often on dry land. I
want to just hook up and go.
The image of a family day trip in a Fieldmouse or the like (me, my wife
Agnès, and Fletcher, now 1 year old) tickles my fancy!
Thanks again all!
Matthew Long
Saint-Priest, France
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing
- stay on topic
- use punctuation
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
Boatbuilding (or something very like that). He uses sheet plywood,
lapstrake, and some combinations. The second half of the book is all about
his designs, some nice ones, including small prams (for example, Tender
Behind).
My favourite is his 13 foot Rogue -- flat or dory type bottom with several
wide lapstrake planks -- a very shapely boat.
The book can be ordered through WoodenBoat, Watercraft, and Classic Boat
(soon, I believe). Some designs are at:http://www.wserjeant.fsnet.co.uk/
(but not Rogue).
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew, Agnès & Fletcher Peillet-Long
[mailto:matthew.long@...]
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 1:01 PM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Tackling plywood lapstrake
Thanks to all for the responses to my plywood lapstrake question. I've
pretty much decided to get his book and design catalog as a next step.
I have heard two references now to Hill's ribband technique--one pro,
one con. For now, I am inclined to try Oughtred's system as I have
developed a Bolgerish aversion to building anything that doesn't
actually become part of the boat if I can possibly avoid it. I'll let
you know.
I do have a couple of oversize sheets of 1/4" okoume exterior plywood
if I want to try something just to mess around.
> I think you could do better than the Fieldmouse pram. IainI LIKE the Fieldmouse pram, leeboards and all! Of course, there are
> Oughtred's designs are very nice
many possibilities. I need something that will trail easily behind my
1.1 liter Peugeot 106 (that's right, there are motorcycles with bigger
engines!). I do want a trailer, because I find the hassle of
cartopping to distant waters is keeping me too often on dry land. I
want to just hook up and go.
The image of a family day trip in a Fieldmouse or the like (me, my wife
Agnès, and Fletcher, now 1 year old) tickles my fancy!
Thanks again all!
Matthew Long
Saint-Priest, France
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing
- stay on topic
- use punctuation
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
- add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
Thanks to all for the responses to my plywood lapstrake question. I've
pretty much decided to get his book and design catalog as a next step.
I have heard two references now to Hill's ribband technique--one pro,
one con. For now, I am inclined to try Oughtred's system as I have
developed a Bolgerish aversion to building anything that doesn't
actually become part of the boat if I can possibly avoid it. I'll let
you know.
I do have a couple of oversize sheets of 1/4" okoume exterior plywood
if I want to try something just to mess around.
many possibilities. I need something that will trail easily behind my
1.1 liter Peugeot 106 (that's right, there are motorcycles with bigger
engines!). I do want a trailer, because I find the hassle of
cartopping to distant waters is keeping me too often on dry land. I
want to just hook up and go.
The image of a family day trip in a Fieldmouse or the like (me, my wife
Agnès, and Fletcher, now 1 year old) tickles my fancy!
Thanks again all!
Matthew Long
Saint-Priest, France
pretty much decided to get his book and design catalog as a next step.
I have heard two references now to Hill's ribband technique--one pro,
one con. For now, I am inclined to try Oughtred's system as I have
developed a Bolgerish aversion to building anything that doesn't
actually become part of the boat if I can possibly avoid it. I'll let
you know.
I do have a couple of oversize sheets of 1/4" okoume exterior plywood
if I want to try something just to mess around.
> I think you could do better than the Fieldmouse pram. IainI LIKE the Fieldmouse pram, leeboards and all! Of course, there are
> Oughtred's designs are very nice
many possibilities. I need something that will trail easily behind my
1.1 liter Peugeot 106 (that's right, there are motorcycles with bigger
engines!). I do want a trailer, because I find the hassle of
cartopping to distant waters is keeping me too often on dry land. I
want to just hook up and go.
The image of a family day trip in a Fieldmouse or the like (me, my wife
Agnès, and Fletcher, now 1 year old) tickles my fancy!
Thanks again all!
Matthew Long
Saint-Priest, France
After three bolger boats (Gypsy, Teal, and Rubens Nymph) and three
glued-lapstrake boats (well, OK, two were cradle boats, but the
technique is the same), I really like plywood lapstrake. It's a
little more work, I think, but the work is generally more pleasant.
I'd rather work at getting plank shapes right than sanding
fiberglass.
I'd list the pros and cons of Plywood lapstrake as follows
Pro:
- Hull shape is not limited by sheet plywood, hence more complex and,
IMHO, prettier boats are possible
- MUCH less glue mess than taped seam construction or strip-planking.
- MUCH less sanding than any construction that's sheathed with
fiberglass, since the plywood is already smooth and fair
- Less framing is needed, since the glued laps form a double-
thickness stringer along each plank edge
Con:
- Requires more accurate fits between planks
- Requires good quality plywood ACX fir probably won't cut
it.
- Requires an accurate building jig
- Requires care laying out plank shapes to look good
- More parts, generally
- Probably takes longer, although when I consider all the time spent
getting the Gypsy's fiberglass sheathing smooth and fair, I'm
not
sure.
Tom Hill's "Ultralight Boatbuilding" shows a method of
construction
that uses ribbands on the mold that define the shape of each plank
before planking starts. Iain Oughtred doesn't think this is
worth
the trouble; I'm inclined to disagree.
I think you could do better than the Fieldmouse pram. Iain
Oughtred's designs are very nice. Bolger's Spur II looks
fine, too,
if you want a rowboat. You might also look at Joel White's
designs:
the Nutshell pram, and the Shellback and Pooduck skiffs. I'm
currently working on a conversion of the Cartopper design to glued
lapstrake, which I may build this winter, retaining the flat bottom
and having rounded lapstrake topsides. Cartopper's a dory skiff,
actually, so I guess I'm just going back to her roots.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Matthew, Agnès & Fletcher
Peillet-Long"
<matthew.long@l...> wrote:
glued-lapstrake boats (well, OK, two were cradle boats, but the
technique is the same), I really like plywood lapstrake. It's a
little more work, I think, but the work is generally more pleasant.
I'd rather work at getting plank shapes right than sanding
fiberglass.
I'd list the pros and cons of Plywood lapstrake as follows
Pro:
- Hull shape is not limited by sheet plywood, hence more complex and,
IMHO, prettier boats are possible
- MUCH less glue mess than taped seam construction or strip-planking.
- MUCH less sanding than any construction that's sheathed with
fiberglass, since the plywood is already smooth and fair
- Less framing is needed, since the glued laps form a double-
thickness stringer along each plank edge
Con:
- Requires more accurate fits between planks
- Requires good quality plywood ACX fir probably won't cut
it.
- Requires an accurate building jig
- Requires care laying out plank shapes to look good
- More parts, generally
- Probably takes longer, although when I consider all the time spent
getting the Gypsy's fiberglass sheathing smooth and fair, I'm
not
sure.
Tom Hill's "Ultralight Boatbuilding" shows a method of
construction
that uses ribbands on the mold that define the shape of each plank
before planking starts. Iain Oughtred doesn't think this is
worth
the trouble; I'm inclined to disagree.
I think you could do better than the Fieldmouse pram. Iain
Oughtred's designs are very nice. Bolger's Spur II looks
fine, too,
if you want a rowboat. You might also look at Joel White's
designs:
the Nutshell pram, and the Shellback and Pooduck skiffs. I'm
currently working on a conversion of the Cartopper design to glued
lapstrake, which I may build this winter, retaining the flat bottom
and having rounded lapstrake topsides. Cartopper's a dory skiff,
actually, so I guess I'm just going back to her roots.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Matthew, Agnès & Fletcher
Peillet-Long"
<matthew.long@l...> wrote:
> In considering my next project (not that I'm completely finishedwith
> the current one, mind you!) I am considering tackling the gluedplywood
> lapstrake technique.for
>
> The conventional wisdom seems to be that this is a good technique
> an amateur taking on a non-instant boat project, along with perhapsfor
> glued strip building.
>
> Bolger's Fieldmouse pram would be about right, a good first project
> a new technique. There are of course many others to choose from,lovely
> especially by Iain Oughtred. In other Bolger designs, I could see
> moving on to a Japanese Beach Cruiser, a lapstrake Chebacco, the
> St. Valerie, or adapting one of his straight plans-and-offsetsdesigns,
> even a power boat.technique,
>
> I know that Oughtred has a new book out, and there is also Thomas
> Hill's ULTRALIGHT BOATBUILDING.
>
> Can anyone offer comments on first-hand experience with this
> or the relative merits of either of these books?
>
> Thanks a lot!
>
> Matthew
>
> PS - "Polliwog," my Juin (June) Bug, is still awaiting repairs :(
Matthew Long Wrote:
discussed is its handling when light, 1.e., the "flip" side of its 500+ lbs.
displacement. PCB designed it to carry two adults and two small children on
its designed waterline. That means that as a singlehander it would float
very high, be very round-bilged, and correspondingly, very tiddly - both
side-to-side and fore-and-aft. This is pure speculation: does anyone have
experience to confirm or refute?
Peter Belenky
>Bolger's Fieldmouse pram would be about right,I, too, have admired the Fieldmouse design. One thing I have never seen
>a good first project for a new technique.
discussed is its handling when light, 1.e., the "flip" side of its 500+ lbs.
displacement. PCB designed it to carry two adults and two small children on
its designed waterline. That means that as a singlehander it would float
very high, be very round-bilged, and correspondingly, very tiddly - both
side-to-side and fore-and-aft. This is pure speculation: does anyone have
experience to confirm or refute?
Peter Belenky
Matthew --
I've been bitten by the glued-ply lapstrake bug as well, and bought
both Hill's and Oughtred's books. Hill's is a bit clearer for the
beginner (and the American), but I think it's helpful to have both --
you can interpolate a number of things that aren't fully explained in
either. All that said, I've read each of them once now and do NOT
feel qualified to begin building at all. I suspect I'll have to read
them both again, and then again, even more closely, as I begin
building.
Post news as you go along. Good luck.
(I've been hoping to do the 25' Chebacco -- but might try a smaller
lapstrake project first, before investing in the big one.)
All best,
Garth
I've been bitten by the glued-ply lapstrake bug as well, and bought
both Hill's and Oughtred's books. Hill's is a bit clearer for the
beginner (and the American), but I think it's helpful to have both --
you can interpolate a number of things that aren't fully explained in
either. All that said, I've read each of them once now and do NOT
feel qualified to begin building at all. I suspect I'll have to read
them both again, and then again, even more closely, as I begin
building.
Post news as you go along. Good luck.
(I've been hoping to do the 25' Chebacco -- but might try a smaller
lapstrake project first, before investing in the big one.)
All best,
Garth
> >Can anyone offer comments on first-hand experience with thistechnique, or the relative merits of either of these books?
Matthew,
when I ordered the plans for our Mouse Pram from Ian Oughtred, copies of an
series of articels published in Practical Boat Owner about building his
Granny Pram came together with his plans. (I'll contact you off list)
Lapstrake
pro:
The first time we took our little dinghy to the water, a Frenchman wanted
to buy the boat right away from the top of our car. (My wife vehemently
rejected)
con: edges of planking are a bit damageable.
Leo
when I ordered the plans for our Mouse Pram from Ian Oughtred, copies of an
series of articels published in Practical Boat Owner about building his
Granny Pram came together with his plans. (I'll contact you off list)
Lapstrake
pro:
The first time we took our little dinghy to the water, a Frenchman wanted
to buy the boat right away from the top of our car. (My wife vehemently
rejected)
con: edges of planking are a bit damageable.
Leo
>Can anyone offer comments on first-hand experience with this technique,
>or the relative merits of either of these books?
You can check out this site.http://www.seasidesmallcraft.com/
I found them when looking for CNC routers. I don't know if they offer
plans, but if memory serves me correctly (big if), they have pictures
of the building process of a nice looking ply lap canoe.
Hope this helps you out.
Rich
http://smallboat.homepage.com
I found them when looking for CNC routers. I don't know if they offer
plans, but if memory serves me correctly (big if), they have pictures
of the building process of a nice looking ply lap canoe.
Hope this helps you out.
Rich
http://smallboat.homepage.com
> Can anyone offer comments on first-hand experience with thistechnique,
> or the relative merits of either of these books?
In considering my next project (not that I'm completely finished with
the current one, mind you!) I am considering tackling the glued plywood
lapstrake technique.
The conventional wisdom seems to be that this is a good technique for
an amateur taking on a non-instant boat project, along with perhaps
glued strip building.
Bolger's Fieldmouse pram would be about right, a good first project for
a new technique. There are of course many others to choose from,
especially by Iain Oughtred. In other Bolger designs, I could see
moving on to a Japanese Beach Cruiser, a lapstrake Chebacco, the lovely
St. Valerie, or adapting one of his straight plans-and-offsets designs,
even a power boat.
I know that Oughtred has a new book out, and there is also Thomas
Hill's ULTRALIGHT BOATBUILDING.
Can anyone offer comments on first-hand experience with this technique,
or the relative merits of either of these books?
Thanks a lot!
Matthew
PS - "Polliwog," my Juin (June) Bug, is still awaiting repairs :(
the current one, mind you!) I am considering tackling the glued plywood
lapstrake technique.
The conventional wisdom seems to be that this is a good technique for
an amateur taking on a non-instant boat project, along with perhaps
glued strip building.
Bolger's Fieldmouse pram would be about right, a good first project for
a new technique. There are of course many others to choose from,
especially by Iain Oughtred. In other Bolger designs, I could see
moving on to a Japanese Beach Cruiser, a lapstrake Chebacco, the lovely
St. Valerie, or adapting one of his straight plans-and-offsets designs,
even a power boat.
I know that Oughtred has a new book out, and there is also Thomas
Hill's ULTRALIGHT BOATBUILDING.
Can anyone offer comments on first-hand experience with this technique,
or the relative merits of either of these books?
Thanks a lot!
Matthew
PS - "Polliwog," my Juin (June) Bug, is still awaiting repairs :(