Re: [bolger] polyester resin alone?
It's best to paint the G4 as it is not UV resistant, although the company I used
does sell coloured UV resistant versions (more expensive). What I did was to but
for coats of the material on the boat and while the g4 was still tacky applied
the undercoat of paint (polyester base). After waiting for it to dry I have
tackled the surface with scrapers to try and get it to peel without success.
does sell coloured UV resistant versions (more expensive). What I did was to but
for coats of the material on the boat and while the g4 was still tacky applied
the undercoat of paint (polyester base). After waiting for it to dry I have
tackled the surface with scrapers to try and get it to peel without success.
I used polyester on my teal, both with and without cloth. In both
cases, it was painted over (porch paint)
The bottom of the boat is fine. It was glassed with six ounce, and
painted. No peeling, flaking, checking; and it gets a lot of weather
when the boat is on her back over the winter.
The topsides got coated with polyester, and painted. The checked over
the winter. I spent about an our sanding and repainting before
putting her on the beach this Spring.
Polyester is the resin of choice in the surfboard industry.
High-grade polyester is very, very clear and a good laminator can
make the glass disappear into the resin, making the board look like
it's wrapped in a coat of window glass. Very, very pretty.
Polyester is also much, much more stable with respect to U.V. I have
surfboard made from both epoxy and polyester. Neither have any U.V.
protection. The epoxy board yellow very quickly, the poly boards take
years, and the effect is slight. There are many example of polyester
build boards that are twenty and thirty years old, still going strong.
I know that much has been written about poly and plywood not getting
along very well, but if I was doing a "bright" project, like gull,
I'd use the poly and enjoy the deep, clear finish for 5 or 10 or 20
years, then build another when the wood and the glass parted ways.
YIBB,
David
134 W.26th St. 12th Floor
New York, NY 10001
(212) 243-1636
cases, it was painted over (porch paint)
The bottom of the boat is fine. It was glassed with six ounce, and
painted. No peeling, flaking, checking; and it gets a lot of weather
when the boat is on her back over the winter.
The topsides got coated with polyester, and painted. The checked over
the winter. I spent about an our sanding and repainting before
putting her on the beach this Spring.
Polyester is the resin of choice in the surfboard industry.
High-grade polyester is very, very clear and a good laminator can
make the glass disappear into the resin, making the board look like
it's wrapped in a coat of window glass. Very, very pretty.
Polyester is also much, much more stable with respect to U.V. I have
surfboard made from both epoxy and polyester. Neither have any U.V.
protection. The epoxy board yellow very quickly, the poly boards take
years, and the effect is slight. There are many example of polyester
build boards that are twenty and thirty years old, still going strong.
I know that much has been written about poly and plywood not getting
along very well, but if I was doing a "bright" project, like gull,
I'd use the poly and enjoy the deep, clear finish for 5 or 10 or 20
years, then build another when the wood and the glass parted ways.
YIBB,
David
> I was wondering about coating my skiff hull with polyester resin. NoCRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
>glass. Just resin. (the ply is maranti) It seems it would make it harder
>and more dent resistant, and the wood fibers would take the usual place
>of the glass fibers. I could paint over it, or, do I rightly recall
>Polyester Resin is not so prone to UV degradation? After all, the
>plastic boats are made of the stuff. If so, could I ONLY coat with poly
>resin - no varnish? Then the boat would be finished (sort of) bright,
>but without the recoating nightmare. Or would the resin crack and peel
>or something. Wondering.... would love opinions. (Or facts even!)
>Happy Sails,
>David
>--
>
>SOME CLICKS THAT COUNT!!
>Feed someone.
>http://www.thehungersite.com/
>Save a little rain forest.
>http://rainforest.care2.com/front.html/player12296
>
>Simplicity Boats (& mirror sites)
>http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/index.html
>http://members.xoom.com/simpleboats/index.html
>Here's my latest boat:
>http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/summerbreeze.html
>http://members.xoom.com/simpleboats/summerbreeze.html
>Quasi esoteric musical instruments
>http://unicornstrings.com
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing
>- stay on topic
>- use punctuation
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
>- add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
134 W.26th St. 12th Floor
New York, NY 10001
(212) 243-1636
So this is a clear(ish) finish? Does it resist UV or do you still have
to paint it?
Thanks,
David Beede
daniel.curnutte@...wrote:
SOME CLICKS THAT COUNT!!
Feed someone.
http://www.thehungersite.com/
Save a little rain forest.
http://rainforest.care2.com/
Simplicity Boats
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/index.html
Here's my latest boat, complete with build notes:
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/summerbreeze.html
Quasi esoteric musical instruments
http://unicornstrings.com
to paint it?
Thanks,
David Beede
daniel.curnutte@...wrote:
>--
> You'll always get different opinions on this one. I can only say what I have
> done. All the literature warned against polyesters "stickability", which is why
> I left it. I used a commercial product called G4 (I live in the UK). It is a
> single part, moisture curing polyurethane waterproofing material. It is cheap
> and primarily sold for dampsealing concrete and brickwork. It it effectively a
> tough varnish. Four coats of this stuff (you can apply fresh coats every twenty
> minutes) and the wood is sealed and feels hard. Epoxy and glass are obviously
> better but I could not justify the expense.
> Have fun
> Daniel
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
SOME CLICKS THAT COUNT!!
Feed someone.
http://www.thehungersite.com/
Save a little rain forest.
http://rainforest.care2.com/
Simplicity Boats
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/index.html
Here's my latest boat, complete with build notes:
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/summerbreeze.html
Quasi esoteric musical instruments
http://unicornstrings.com
Daniel,
Can you paint over this stuff?
Mike Masten
You'll always get different opinions on this one. I can only say what I have
done. All the literature warned against polyesters "stickability", which is
why
I left it. I used a commercial product called G4 (I live in the UK). It is a
single part, moisture curing polyurethane waterproofing material. It is cheap
and primarily sold for dampsealing concrete and brickwork. It it effectively a
tough varnish. Four coats of this stuff (you can apply fresh coats every
twenty
minutes) and the wood is sealed and feels hard. Epoxy and glass are obviously
better but I could not justify the expense.
Have fun
Daniel
Can you paint over this stuff?
Mike Masten
You'll always get different opinions on this one. I can only say what I have
done. All the literature warned against polyesters "stickability", which is
why
I left it. I used a commercial product called G4 (I live in the UK). It is a
single part, moisture curing polyurethane waterproofing material. It is cheap
and primarily sold for dampsealing concrete and brickwork. It it effectively a
tough varnish. Four coats of this stuff (you can apply fresh coats every
twenty
minutes) and the wood is sealed and feels hard. Epoxy and glass are obviously
better but I could not justify the expense.
Have fun
Daniel
You'll always get different opinions on this one. I can only say what I have
done. All the literature warned against polyesters "stickability", which is why
I left it. I used a commercial product called G4 (I live in the UK). It is a
single part, moisture curing polyurethane waterproofing material. It is cheap
and primarily sold for dampsealing concrete and brickwork. It it effectively a
tough varnish. Four coats of this stuff (you can apply fresh coats every twenty
minutes) and the wood is sealed and feels hard. Epoxy and glass are obviously
better but I could not justify the expense.
Have fun
Daniel
done. All the literature warned against polyesters "stickability", which is why
I left it. I used a commercial product called G4 (I live in the UK). It is a
single part, moisture curing polyurethane waterproofing material. It is cheap
and primarily sold for dampsealing concrete and brickwork. It it effectively a
tough varnish. Four coats of this stuff (you can apply fresh coats every twenty
minutes) and the wood is sealed and feels hard. Epoxy and glass are obviously
better but I could not justify the expense.
Have fun
Daniel
Polyester will peel off faster than epoxy will, though you most certainly
do have to protect epoxy from the light. I would bet polyester is just the
same, with gelcoat normally preventing light from getting inside. (Paints,
of course, are opaque, and clear coatings like varnish have UV blockers
added.)
In my limited experience, flow-coating without glass is a wasted opportunity.
Gregg Carlson
At 08:47 AM 10/16/2000 -0400, you wrote:
do have to protect epoxy from the light. I would bet polyester is just the
same, with gelcoat normally preventing light from getting inside. (Paints,
of course, are opaque, and clear coatings like varnish have UV blockers
added.)
In my limited experience, flow-coating without glass is a wasted opportunity.
Gregg Carlson
At 08:47 AM 10/16/2000 -0400, you wrote:
> I was wondering about coating my skiff hull with polyester resin. No
>glass. Just resin. (the ply is maranti) It seems it would make it harder
>and more dent resistant, and the wood fibers would take the usual place
>of the glass fibers. I could paint over it, or, do I rightly recall
>Polyester Resin is not so prone to UV degradation? After all, the
>plastic boats are made of the stuff. If so, could I ONLY coat with poly
>resin - no varnish? Then the boat would be finished (sort of) bright,
>but without the recoating nightmare. Or would the resin crack and peel
>or something. Wondering.... would love opinions. (Or facts even!)
>Happy Sails,
>David
>--
>
>SOME CLICKS THAT COUNT!!
>Feed someone.
>http://www.thehungersite.com/
>Save a little rain forest.
>http://rainforest.care2.com/front.html/player12296
>
>Simplicity Boats (& mirror sites)
>http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/index.html
>http://members.xoom.com/simpleboats/index.html
>Here's my latest boat:
>http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/summerbreeze.html
>http://members.xoom.com/simpleboats/summerbreeze.html
>Quasi esoteric musical instruments
>http://unicornstrings.com
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing
>- stay on topic
>- use punctuation
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
>- add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
>
I was wondering about coating my skiff hull with polyester resin. No
glass. Just resin. (the ply is maranti) It seems it would make it harder
and more dent resistant, and the wood fibers would take the usual place
of the glass fibers. I could paint over it, or, do I rightly recall
Polyester Resin is not so prone to UV degradation? After all, the
plastic boats are made of the stuff. If so, could I ONLY coat with poly
resin - no varnish? Then the boat would be finished (sort of) bright,
but without the recoating nightmare. Or would the resin crack and peel
or something. Wondering.... would love opinions. (Or facts even!)
Happy Sails,
David
--
SOME CLICKS THAT COUNT!!
Feed someone.
http://www.thehungersite.com/
Save a little rain forest.
http://rainforest.care2.com/front.html/player12296
Simplicity Boats (& mirror sites)
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/index.html
http://members.xoom.com/simpleboats/index.html
Here's my latest boat:
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/summerbreeze.html
http://members.xoom.com/simpleboats/summerbreeze.html
Quasi esoteric musical instruments
http://unicornstrings.com
glass. Just resin. (the ply is maranti) It seems it would make it harder
and more dent resistant, and the wood fibers would take the usual place
of the glass fibers. I could paint over it, or, do I rightly recall
Polyester Resin is not so prone to UV degradation? After all, the
plastic boats are made of the stuff. If so, could I ONLY coat with poly
resin - no varnish? Then the boat would be finished (sort of) bright,
but without the recoating nightmare. Or would the resin crack and peel
or something. Wondering.... would love opinions. (Or facts even!)
Happy Sails,
David
--
SOME CLICKS THAT COUNT!!
Feed someone.
http://www.thehungersite.com/
Save a little rain forest.
http://rainforest.care2.com/front.html/player12296
Simplicity Boats (& mirror sites)
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/index.html
http://members.xoom.com/simpleboats/index.html
Here's my latest boat:
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/summerbreeze.html
http://members.xoom.com/simpleboats/summerbreeze.html
Quasi esoteric musical instruments
http://unicornstrings.com